Excellent video! I love how you clearly show the disassembly of the case, these can be tricky the first time for sure! And yes, I've had issues re-moving/re-installing the speaker on the IIc case, oh Apple!
@@JDW- The two times I recall doing it, I had to jam in the speaker under the wider bit near the edge of the case, and then bend back the two bits some I'm guessing since the original cases are 40 years old now they bend a bit easier, but it was not easy I had damaged a speaker a long time ago when removing it, trying to pry it out with a little screwdriver it slipped and tore the cone I need to set up the clear case I also got so your video certainly helps!
You should look into UV curing glue. JB weld makes some that is great that I use for those exact things like the tabs breaking. It's like stronger super glue that cures with a UV light thats built into the tube and dries clear. I know you're in Japan, so be careful with brands. I know JB weld dries clear, I also have Bondic brand and that dries orange.
Thank you for the excellent suggestion! While I have the original JB Weld epoxy which dries gray, I'd never heard about UV curable JB Weld until your mention. Sadly, I cannot find it on Amazon USA or Amazon Japan. I am able to find it on the JB Weld website, although that doesn't help me lay my hands on a tube here in Japan: www.jbweld.com/product/superweld-light-activated I was able to find a Krazy Glue version here: amzn.to/40QPPnB But alas, it is no where to be found on Amazon Japan.
After much searching on Amazon Japan, I was able to find BONDIC brand refills for a reasonable price, and since I have my own high wattage UV light (which I normally use for curing UV solder mask), a refill bottle will suffice. Most likely this is the same resin used in the JB Weld brand. Most comments about the Bondic resin here in Japan are good, so I can give that a try. Thanks again for the tip! www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/BD-CRJ/dp/B01LR7A2DE/
Great Video! I agree the price is high but you are also right its what it is worth to you. I have the clear Mac SE/30 case which I bought a factory 2nd and paid $275. More than I paid for the SE/30 i put in it. For me it was 100% worth it. It makes me so happy I can't put a value on it now.
You know what I miss most about computing back in the 80's? It was the documentation that came with software. Software always came with some type of bound documentation that told you what software could do, what the commands were, and such. Now the best you can get is some card stock with "getting started" information and a drop down menu. It really sucks now. I use to read through the documentation so I could get the most out of what I purchased. Now you just have to guess.
@@rickkephartactual7706 I know. I dislike that. And in the case of the 10" Eyoyo IPS display I recently showed in three of my videos, it comes with printed documentation, but it doesn't really explain anything in detail. I couldn't figure out how to get sound through the monitor's speakers at first, so I wrote the company who sold it to me on AliExpress, but they responded back hours later only to say they needed to consult with technicians. After much waiting I just did some trial an error on my own, finding out that it only works through the two RCA inputs if a valid video signal is also present, and then you must put the monitor in AV Mode too. Audio also comes in through HDMI, and I found that out by connecting a DVD player. But I cannot, for example, connect HDMI without audio and then input my audio to the two RCA inputs because the RCA inputs require the monitor to not only have a valid Video signal by RCA (composite), but you must also set the monitor to AV Mode, not HDMI mode, thereby blocking the HDMI video signal! So without adequate documentation that explains all that, and without putting that documentation online, people either have to take a big risk in buying something, or turn to UA-cam to watch somebody else who took that risk. I was happy to take the risk for the sake of others, but not everyone is willing to do that. We SHOULDN'T HAVE TO do that! So you're 100% correct about the failed mentality today which says people don't need adequate documentation. It's not us being old school either. It's a serious problem!
Guess I missed seeing this earlier. Regarding the broken speaker tab, I would suggest using a clear UV cured resin instead of the hot glue. I don't have experience on installing the speaker on the clear case, but the stock case I would just seat the speaker in the bottom two tabs and a firm hit on the speaker magnet would seat it. It does seem the clear case is a bit more brittle, so that might not be the best method to use. I think how I might approach the speaker install on the MacEffects case is to sand down the middle tab to make it easier to install and then use UV cured resin to rebuild what was sanded off. I just got e-mail update from MacEffects and it looks like they've received the black cases and keyboards and will be shipping them out in a few weeks, so I'm looking forward to that. I think I may look at putting in some kind of a dust guard on the upper case. The original material reminds me of Bounce dryer sheets. I think if I spray paint some black, and use a spray glue on the case, it might work as a substitute dust guard. The e-mail update also mentions they have made new clear back plates with polycarbonate that should be more durable and you should be able to get a replacement for the cost of shipping But yes, I do agree these are expensive mods. And current exchange rates between Canada and US has gotten worse for me as well, so I suppose getting in the the Kickstarter when the exchange was a bit better helps. I did get the MacEffects clear IIe case and keyboard a few years ago and installed a ROM 01 IIGS board in it, and it is one of my favourite mods for the hobby.
Thank you for watching and for all the excellent feedback. I actually used BONDIC for the first time during the making of my most recent Mockingboard video, after having broken off more tabs due to my use of “Drop-to-Open.” It works extremely well. However, one of the tabs was missing even when the case was new, when I first opened the box. And most of the other tabs flew to someplace I couldn’t find. So I was only able to reattach two of the original tabs using BONDIC. Had I known the usefulness of BONDIC earlier, I would have used it t instead of hot glue to fix the broken speaker mounting tab on the MacEffects case. But my overall conclusion about those three tabs stands. I dislike them tremendously. The design was not intelligently thought out. There absolutely needs to be a way to more easily mount and unmount that speaker without bending and breaking anything at all. With that said, I am not blaming MacEffects at because all they did was make an accurate reproduction of the original case. I spoke with Mark Jozaitis of MacEffects about the black case and he said it took into consideration my advice, and the tabs on the back panel should be more durable. But I have not tested that black case I don’t even have one, so I can’t say anything for first-hand experience. Once you get your black case, I would strongly suggest you turn on your video camera and let the world see how you put in the speaker and add your dust shield. I think that would be useful information, especially if you go about the speaker install differently than I did.
@ I used Bondic before but it is a bit expensive. I found a significantly larger bottle of generic UV resin for the same price as a tiny tube of Bondic. In fact I refill the Bondic tube with the UV resin. It’s great for alot of small plastic repairs
@@lemonherb1 I bought this BONDIC "refill" from Amazon Japan (I live in Japan) for a reasonable price, and I didn't need the product with the UV LED because I already have a 10W UV flashlight: www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B01LR7A2DE
Thanks for the information and review. I think I'll stick with my clean, non-retrobrighted, IIc. It's really difficult to justify over $500 for the whole setup.
Links to the T-shirt and many more are found in the video text description. But here’s the link again for your convenience: Karateka T-Shirt: bit.ly/48Yx6ID
![Apple HD20, SONY PSU Recapping [Part 2 of 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ve5PlBCBHfQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Always the best and detailed videos. Just amazing work James.
Thank you for your kind words, Will.
Cool shirt, Cool Case. Cool Video
Excellent video! I love how you clearly show the disassembly of the case, these can be tricky the first time for sure! And yes, I've had issues re-moving/re-installing the speaker on the IIc case, oh Apple!
How did you reinstall your speaker?
@@JDW- The two times I recall doing it, I had to jam in the speaker under the wider bit near the edge of the case, and then bend back the two bits some
I'm guessing since the original cases are 40 years old now they bend a bit easier, but it was not easy
I had damaged a speaker a long time ago when removing it, trying to pry it out with a little screwdriver it slipped and tore the cone
I need to set up the clear case I also got so your video certainly helps!
You should look into UV curing glue. JB weld makes some that is great that I use for those exact things like the tabs breaking. It's like stronger super glue that cures with a UV light thats built into the tube and dries clear. I know you're in Japan, so be careful with brands. I know JB weld dries clear, I also have Bondic brand and that dries orange.
Thank you for the excellent suggestion! While I have the original JB Weld epoxy which dries gray, I'd never heard about UV curable JB Weld until your mention.
Sadly, I cannot find it on Amazon USA or Amazon Japan. I am able to find it on the JB Weld website, although that doesn't help me lay my hands on a tube here in Japan: www.jbweld.com/product/superweld-light-activated
I was able to find a Krazy Glue version here: amzn.to/40QPPnB
But alas, it is no where to be found on Amazon Japan.
After much searching on Amazon Japan, I was able to find BONDIC brand refills for a reasonable price, and since I have my own high wattage UV light (which I normally use for curing UV solder mask), a refill bottle will suffice. Most likely this is the same resin used in the JB Weld brand. Most comments about the Bondic resin here in Japan are good, so I can give that a try. Thanks again for the tip!
www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/BD-CRJ/dp/B01LR7A2DE/
Great Video! I agree the price is high but you are also right its what it is worth to you. I have the clear Mac SE/30 case which I bought a factory 2nd and paid $275. More than I paid for the SE/30 i put in it. For me it was 100% worth it. It makes me so happy I can't put a value on it now.
You know what I miss most about computing back in the 80's? It was the documentation that came with software. Software always came with some type of bound documentation that told you what software could do, what the commands were, and such. Now the best you can get is some card stock with "getting started" information and a drop down menu. It really sucks now. I use to read through the documentation so I could get the most out of what I purchased. Now you just have to guess.
Agreed; and honestly, I prefer not to guess. Like you, I want better documentation too.
@@JDW- I know they save a lot of money by not printing documentation but it also leaves users unaware of many of its features.
@@rickkephartactual7706 I know. I dislike that. And in the case of the 10" Eyoyo IPS display I recently showed in three of my videos, it comes with printed documentation, but it doesn't really explain anything in detail. I couldn't figure out how to get sound through the monitor's speakers at first, so I wrote the company who sold it to me on AliExpress, but they responded back hours later only to say they needed to consult with technicians. After much waiting I just did some trial an error on my own, finding out that it only works through the two RCA inputs if a valid video signal is also present, and then you must put the monitor in AV Mode too. Audio also comes in through HDMI, and I found that out by connecting a DVD player. But I cannot, for example, connect HDMI without audio and then input my audio to the two RCA inputs because the RCA inputs require the monitor to not only have a valid Video signal by RCA (composite), but you must also set the monitor to AV Mode, not HDMI mode, thereby blocking the HDMI video signal! So without adequate documentation that explains all that, and without putting that documentation online, people either have to take a big risk in buying something, or turn to UA-cam to watch somebody else who took that risk. I was happy to take the risk for the sake of others, but not everyone is willing to do that. We SHOULDN'T HAVE TO do that! So you're 100% correct about the failed mentality today which says people don't need adequate documentation. It's not us being old school either. It's a serious problem!
Guess I missed seeing this earlier.
Regarding the broken speaker tab, I would suggest using a clear UV cured resin instead of the hot glue. I don't have experience on installing the speaker on the clear case, but the stock case I would just seat the speaker in the bottom two tabs and a firm hit on the speaker magnet would seat it. It does seem the clear case is a bit more brittle, so that might not be the best method to use. I think how I might approach the speaker install on the MacEffects case is to sand down the middle tab to make it easier to install and then use UV cured resin to rebuild what was sanded off.
I just got e-mail update from MacEffects and it looks like they've received the black cases and keyboards and will be shipping them out in a few weeks, so I'm looking forward to that. I think I may look at putting in some kind of a dust guard on the upper case. The original material reminds me of Bounce dryer sheets. I think if I spray paint some black, and use a spray glue on the case, it might work as a substitute dust guard.
The e-mail update also mentions they have made new clear back plates with polycarbonate that should be more durable and you should be able to get a replacement for the cost of shipping
But yes, I do agree these are expensive mods. And current exchange rates between Canada and US has gotten worse for me as well, so I suppose getting in the the Kickstarter when the exchange was a bit better helps.
I did get the MacEffects clear IIe case and keyboard a few years ago and installed a ROM 01 IIGS board in it, and it is one of my favourite mods for the hobby.
Thank you for watching and for all the excellent feedback.
I actually used BONDIC for the first time during the making of my most recent Mockingboard video, after having broken off more tabs due to my use of “Drop-to-Open.” It works extremely well. However, one of the tabs was missing even when the case was new, when I first opened the box. And most of the other tabs flew to someplace I couldn’t find. So I was only able to reattach two of the original tabs using BONDIC.
Had I known the usefulness of BONDIC earlier, I would have used it t instead of hot glue to fix the broken speaker mounting tab on the MacEffects case.
But my overall conclusion about those three tabs stands. I dislike them tremendously. The design was not intelligently thought out. There absolutely needs to be a way to more easily mount and unmount that speaker without bending and breaking anything at all.
With that said, I am not blaming MacEffects at because all they did was make an accurate reproduction of the original case.
I spoke with Mark Jozaitis of MacEffects about the black case and he said it took into consideration my advice, and the tabs on the back panel should be more durable. But I have not tested that black case I don’t even have one, so I can’t say anything for first-hand experience.
Once you get your black case, I would strongly suggest you turn on your video camera and let the world see how you put in the speaker and add your dust shield. I think that would be useful information, especially if you go about the speaker install differently than I did.
@ I used Bondic before but it is a bit expensive. I found a significantly larger bottle of generic UV resin for the same price as a tiny tube of Bondic. In fact I refill the Bondic tube with the UV resin. It’s great for alot of small plastic repairs
@@lemonherb1 I bought this BONDIC "refill" from Amazon Japan (I live in Japan) for a reasonable price, and I didn't need the product with the UV LED because I already have a 10W UV flashlight:
www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B01LR7A2DE
Thanks for the information and review. I think I'll stick with my clean, non-retrobrighted, IIc. It's really difficult to justify over $500 for the whole setup.
Where can I get the shirt :) Jordan Mechner himself advises, "always punch the hawk", but I always kick it, and I feel a bit rebellios doing that :)
Links to the T-shirt and many more are found in the video text description. But here’s the link again for your convenience: Karateka T-Shirt: bit.ly/48Yx6ID
Hola mauro como estás, quisieras conocer a su sobrino Miguel Alejandro Acciaccaferri hijo de tu hermano Miguel. Saludos cordiales .. te hemos buscado
Ese no es mi nombre, es el nombre de una persona que amablemente apoya mi canal de UA-cam desde Italia.