Your personal hesitations and apprehensions about disassembling more complex engines is refreshing, what do I mean? The internet is full of egos and scene re-takes which give the illusion that they know everything and never have questions of their own. I love the real world experience that you portray. Well done and keep it up!
These engines have great aftermarket support, so getting replacement connecting rods will be easy. The cylinders look like they could be bored to a common oversize, so no worries about finding pistons either. It will need valves, but those are also easy to find. This looks like a good core for a high boost Silvia build.
I had a 200SX SE-R back in the day. Only issue with the engine was the timing chain tensioner which caused chain slap on startup. Easy fix with an upgraded one from a newer SR20. Drove it over 200K miles with no major issues until I got T-boned by a red light runner. Stock it made good power and torque for the time and had a 7.5k redline if I remember correctly. Great motor.
The B14 SE-R will age like the S130 did. They have parallel stories. A little softer, a little more refined, arguably better in some ways than its predecessor yet these same virtues could also be held against it. Looks also generally weren't well accepted despite being beautiful in its own way. It won't be long before a lot of people who have a first gen SE-R on their bucket list get priced out (many are right now) and realize the next best thing is right under their nose. Just like the S130 is finally getting its due, so will the B14 SE-R. iykyk
They absolutely rip with some minor parts added. I run a chipped ECU, Z32 maf, 740cc injectors and a Tomei MX8270 turbo on 15psi and make over 310wheel on a virtually stock engine. They take a beating pretty well and make great power for an old 2 liter.
@@masondyer2396 i have about the same Mods Tomei turbo and 1.3 bar which is about 18.5 psi of boost i have a S14 SR engine my car is a S14 it has a 6 speed 350z trans also with a VLSD rear end the car is a lot of fun :)
Looks rebuildable , bore and hone the cylinders , replace the bad rod , new pistons , and get some good , long miles out of it ( but that's my opinion )
It is clearly rebuildable. But you still needed to disassemble it entirely. Selling the parts to repair another one (or in fact quite a lot of them) is equally good. If it were mine, I would feel pretty lucky to only have a rod to replace, and would probably just clean of the bad cylinder and not even overbore them. 1 new rod, 1 head gasket, new rings, new bearings, then check and lap the valves and I would just run it that way if it passes a leak down test with similar enough results on all cylinders.
Awesome! I absolutely love this channel, had some fun tearing down a Subaru EG33 from an SVX a few years back! Definitely learn a lot on this channel about how stuff works, pretty fascinating.
You really didnt even need a turbo in a 240sx... my 91 was super light and handled well with the 2.4 liter that it came with. Pretty quick too, you can beat up than nissan truck motor for years of fun. First car i could do doughnuts in lol! Was so much fun to drive.
I’ve been a mechanic for over 20 years. I had a friend give me a great tip regarding socket headed bolts. You can do one of two things, take a punch that fits into the hex cavity and give the punch 3-4 good hits or do the same with the socket instead of the punch. You may damage the socket a bit but good steel doesn’t mind too bad. This tip has saved me a lot of time and frustration.
@@stevenbelue5496 - He said "hex cavity" so we'll have to assume he meant Allen head. I'm not sure what the tip is supposed to be - it's common knowledge to tap the head of a bolt that is stuck tight. That's always got to be done without damaging the fastener's key (hex, flats, splines, or whatever)
Yes, this works great. The axial shock imparted by a few sharp hammer strikes will often free any galling and make Allen bolts come out quite easily. The Germans love these damned bolts and I learned this trick from a buddy of mine who works on German cars.
I had the 1800 red top turbo in a UK spec 1990 200SX. Left standard (The JDM car culture didn't exist as popular then) it was mechanically bulletproof, only the dreaded rust let it down. A great car, my late father loved posing in it.
A tip for really stubborn fasteners. There are breaker bars wit a spot where they can be hit with a hammer. They’re often used to break lug nuts loose on heavy equipment. One guy stands on the bar while another hits it with a sledge hammer kind of thing. You can rig up a smaller version for head studs, you just need to apply steady pressure with the bar while you strike the down on the top of the fasteners
Tragic! I am happy to see that this can see a second life! With your teardown i can now see how these can handle decent amount of power. The block looks very strong! I had a 2001 Sentra with the SR20DE. I loved that car i had a ton of fun driving it, until body cancer claimed it.
I love your video so much because you always gives good advice and comment to all what you’ve done and when something you don’t know you always be honest about it every single time. Learned a lot from your video thank you so much.
I'd like to see a Mazda 2.2L Turbo from a MX6 GT.. 1988 to 1992. My favorite car ever. Great videos man! Love the content and watching you tear motors apart. Your commentary is spot on. Feels like working in the shop with my buddy.
Really enjoying your videos and I agree the Nissan JDM engines are easy to work on and yes idiot proof. I'm not a mechanic but with my 795 page manual for my 180SX with a CA18DET I can do everything myself. I have done the head gasket put a exausht cam on the inlet side with adjustable can gears, changed the turbo, injectors and many other parts. My mate always comes to check to see how I done and never been a issue great engines and fun cars to drive.
I’ve had two of these engines and both developed rod knock because of sludge. The rest of the engine looked really good though so I replaced the bearings and cleaned it up and it’s been running very strong for 4 or 5 years now. I love an sr20
The SR20 does not like it if you leave the oil changes too long. The oil feeds to the cams are tiny pinhole thick, so they can get clogged easily and you end up with cams that feel like sandpaper
@@adotintheshark4848 Yup. Which is weird. Because with the way that head looks, you'd expect them to be torn up. Might have been sitting with old oil for a while rather than being run with old oil?
@@LockieNZ We had a SR20 Serena van come through our family shop many years ago that had chewed a lobe off, it had never had an oil change once it was imported to NZ. I remember the owners scrapped it because they couldn’t afford to fix it.
Spent 9 years working at pick-n- pull. I spent a good 3-4 years underneath the drain racks as a drainer/ cat cutter/ gas tank drainer, etc. We would have to do anywhere from 30-50 cars a day. Aluminum pans would be punctured in 3 occasions; the drain plug was over torqued and caused the bolt to strip.The engine suffered major head gasket failure (10 plus minutes of draining molasses and still not done), or... out of sheer laziness. And yes, sometimes the aluminum casting would completely break and it was really bad. Anyhow, it was because we were always rushing. I'm not there anymore, much happier now.
Good catch! This one clearly leaks compression massively. Also they are way darker than the other exhaust valves, this cylinder is not hot enough to clean the exhaust valves of carbon deposits.
My red top is from 1989.. makes about 400hp, its going alright with stock block but almost time for a rebuild. Throwing a rocker, chain tensioner and oil is the biggest issue with sr20s.. they have tiny capacity and a crappy pump.. imports are a gamble as they never seem to change the oil in japan. Absolutely great engines.
The only hard thing is removing the cam cover with it's 10 thousand bolts and then reassembling them with lots of thread repair kits ready. Apart from that working on them is great.
Sport Compact Car and Project Car Mag destroyed the SR20DET market…. That and the “couple of SR20 motors pulling a premium a week before race wars…” franchise.
"You guys are probably laughing at me" NO WAY! I've watched dozens of yours now, and never laughed at you. Often laughed at your jokes, tho. Keep up the great work.
I had a nicely modded SR20DET in a Nissan Sylvia (S15) running at around 280bhp. This, in a car that weighed 1,240 kg! It was an absolute hoot! I miss it terribly. These engines in the UK go for around £2,000-£3,500 at the moment.
Few things I’d like to say: 1) there’s workshop manuals on how to disassemble this engine free 2) they aren’t expensive to repair and lots of spares are available 3) impact tools aren’t good for these old motors 4) I’ve never seen an oil pickup like the one in this engine before
i just received a sr20 turbo that the guy believes spun a rod bearing and this video has helped a bit on what i should expect upon disassembly unfortunately I feel even less prepared to deal with it
Nothing better then watching Eric do his thing in his comical/informative way. Da-bris Adjustable connecting rods Great start to a morning. Thanks bud. 22 years in the trade, I'm a Subaru EJ and Jeep 4.0L fan (while being aware of all their short comings) Had my first crack at the new Subaru motors when i bought 2013 Outback with a FB25B with burnt exhaust valve.
Not like it matters all this time later but did you notice the chunks missing from one of the valves in either cylinder 2 or 3? I don’t recall what position the head was in but I can’t imagine that cylinder making much compression with those pieces missing lol Edit check out 13:03 and it is visible on the exhaust side I believe
Ive seen SR build rebuild breakdown vids and follow all the channels but this is the clearest breakdown ive seen yet. Most other vids skip huge chunks of the process but here its all there. Ill sub for that
Hello from Chattanooga Tn! Subscribed! Stumbled on your channel and i am really enjoying your videos. Im not even a car guy and or mechanic but i feel i am learning a few things now. Thanks for that and keep up the good work!
I bought a used 1 owner Mazda MX6 LS with 90K miles, v6 (200 HP) 5 speed for $1,500 and it was so much fun to drive, I sold it 10 years later to a friend for $1,500 with 94K miles, I sub I still had it
I can't tell you why, I don't think I really have a good reason, I've just never been a BMW fan. But, I very much like your pretty little blue coupe, that is one very beautiful automobile. Since you had it at the shop I'm going to assume your driving it regularly now, which is great, you deserve to enjoy it. Another interesting video, thanks for sharing.
yeah I'm guessing the valves were timed 360 degrees out so it looked right but never made compression. some shade tree rebuild that was forgotten when it didn't work.
My biggest regret was selling my mint 1990 240sx in 2004. At least it went to a kid who had all the parts to do the Silvia conversion - it went to an enthusiast who appreciated the car. Still wish I had kept it :p
A well maintained even med-high tuned SR20s are almost bloody bomb proof. I had one (P11 Primera GT Which I believe is an infinity G20) in a car that had done a little under 190,000 miles with no known history (I paid peanuts for the car). The sump held tar and to be honest it responded VERY well to a service, new filters and plugs. Amazing engine. Also the SR20DE/T was from Nissan. Pre Renault buy in/out where quality became an afterthought (Just like with Renaults).
the scream is dry rubber from being dry to long and the lack of tension on the chain is dude to no oil pressure it will be loose until you start the car
Any way you can find a Lambda II GDi 3.3 engine TT from the following and do a tear down? 2017-present Genesis G70 2016-2020 Genesis G80 2015-present Genesis G90 2018-present Kia K9 2017-present Kia Stinger
Is that a drill or an impact you're using on the valve cover? I tried using my impact on a valve cover and it broke the head off two bolts. Unlucky? Or is there a trick to not breaking the heads off with small bolts (10mm-16mm)?
Would be curious to see a video on a LL8 (4200 Vortec) if at all possible, ive always been so curious to see one torn apart. Love all the content none the less 👌✌ keep it up
I would have liked to see how you dealt with all those broken bolts. It seems like that would be hard to take care of while preserving the value of the parts.
You’re missing the bottom part of the oil pickup. You shouldn’t see the screen, it should be covered by a cone to suck up oil from the bottom of the pan. No idea how it didn’t run dry of oil without that.
I thought I was the worst for *Dropsy,* as in I drop lots of stuff unless I pay *close* attention to what my hands are doing. Can’t take anything for granted…
That is the engine I would like to swap into my 1985 Nissan 720 4X4. I do not want it dfor drag racing, just to bring my old truck power up a few notches for todays highway speeds. The Z24 engines were so gutless, but back then speed limits were 55 and 60 so you did not need much more in a 4x4 truck, but the extra power would be nice.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Your personal hesitations and apprehensions about disassembling more complex engines is refreshing, what do I mean? The internet is full of egos and scene re-takes which give the illusion that they know everything and never have questions of their own. I love the real world experience that you portray. Well done and keep it up!
I came here to write the same thing
@@CableWrestler ok
These engines have great aftermarket support, so getting replacement connecting rods will be easy. The cylinders look like they could be bored to a common oversize, so no worries about finding pistons either. It will need valves, but those are also easy to find.
This looks like a good core for a high boost Silvia build.
Thinking same thing. Plus a bore out with the right piston equals more room for boost?
@@dooooooval904 When you rebore and rehone, you can follow the piston companies recommendation for how much clearance for how much boost you take.
There to expensive and have many issues.and the rocker arms are a problem in making higher horsepower,and there getting quite old.
Would love to see this after a run through the parts wash.
I had a 200SX SE-R back in the day. Only issue with the engine was the timing chain tensioner which caused chain slap on startup. Easy fix with an upgraded one from a newer SR20. Drove it over 200K miles with no major issues until I got T-boned by a red light runner. Stock it made good power and torque for the time and had a 7.5k redline if I remember correctly. Great motor.
The B14 SE-R will age like the S130 did. They have parallel stories. A little softer, a little more refined, arguably better in some ways than its predecessor yet these same virtues could also be held against it. Looks also generally weren't well accepted despite being beautiful in its own way. It won't be long before a lot of people who have a first gen SE-R on their bucket list get priced out (many are right now) and realize the next best thing is right under their nose. Just like the S130 is finally getting its due, so will the B14 SE-R. iykyk
I've always liked this engine, even more because of the aftermarket support. A turbo kit on one, dropped into a mid '80's 200SX would be a lot of fun.
They absolutely rip with some minor parts added. I run a chipped ECU, Z32 maf, 740cc injectors and a Tomei MX8270 turbo on 15psi and make over 310wheel on a virtually stock engine. They take a beating pretty well and make great power for an old 2 liter.
@@masondyer2396 i have about the same Mods Tomei turbo and 1.3 bar which is about 18.5 psi of boost i have a S14 SR engine my car is a S14 it has a 6 speed 350z trans also with a VLSD rear end the car is a lot of fun :)
It's Christmas Day, exactly 3 months after this video was made, and thank you for keeping me company today. Always awesome videos.
You're a straight up kinda guy. Appreciate what you've given us with this tear down.
Looks rebuildable , bore and hone the cylinders , replace the bad rod , new pistons , and get some good , long miles out of it ( but that's my opinion )
It is clearly rebuildable.
But you still needed to disassemble it entirely.
Selling the parts to repair another one (or in fact quite a lot of them) is equally good.
If it were mine, I would feel pretty lucky to only have a rod to replace, and would probably just clean of the bad cylinder and not even overbore them.
1 new rod, 1 head gasket, new rings, new bearings, then check and lap the valves and I would just run it that way if it passes a leak down test with similar enough results on all cylinders.
Depending on how much of a overbore the cylinder walls need couple need a sleeve at that point it's 👎
@@ohhthepatpat from the looks , not much , just a slight amount for ensuring the rust is cleaned out for a proper ring seal .
Agree, send the block to the machinist and slap her back together.
Spoiler Alert
That valve cover alone is probably worth $200-300, just because it's JDM-red. Plus they make damn good wall-art.
yeah so many blown it's hard to find a good one,later engines featured 3 step variable valve timing
Awesome! I absolutely love this channel, had some fun tearing down a Subaru EG33 from an SVX a few years back! Definitely learn a lot on this channel about how stuff works, pretty fascinating.
You really didnt even need a turbo in a 240sx... my 91 was super light and handled well with the 2.4 liter that it came with. Pretty quick too, you can beat up than nissan truck motor for years of fun. First car i could do doughnuts in lol! Was so much fun to drive.
I’ve been a mechanic for over 20 years. I had a friend give me a great tip regarding socket headed bolts. You can do one of two things, take a punch that fits into the hex cavity and give the punch 3-4 good hits or do the same with the socket instead of the punch. You may damage the socket a bit but good steel doesn’t mind too bad. This tip has saved me a lot of time and frustration.
Socket headed bolts? Are you referring to 12 point or Allen maybe?
@@stevenbelue5496 - He said "hex cavity" so we'll have to assume he meant Allen head. I'm not sure what the tip is supposed to be - it's common knowledge to tap the head of a bolt that is stuck tight. That's always got to be done without damaging the fastener's key (hex, flats, splines, or whatever)
Yes, this works great. The axial shock imparted by a few sharp hammer strikes will often free any galling and make Allen bolts come out quite easily. The Germans love these damned bolts and I learned this trick from a buddy of mine who works on German cars.
I had the 1800 red top turbo in a UK spec 1990 200SX. Left standard (The JDM car culture didn't exist as popular then) it was mechanically bulletproof, only the dreaded rust let it down. A great car, my late father loved posing in it.
I have a 91 sr20 I've owned since new. It's getting close to restoration time. Glad to know you may be a resource for any parts.
This video should have no dislikes. There’s nothing to dislike about this
Unless he gave a downer response on another video. Happens all the time.
A tip for really stubborn fasteners.
There are breaker bars wit a spot where they can be hit with a hammer.
They’re often used to break lug nuts loose on heavy equipment. One guy stands on the bar while another hits it with a sledge hammer kind of thing. You can rig up a smaller version for head studs, you just need to apply steady pressure with the bar while you strike the down on the top of the fasteners
Great teardown man. Your barn door is open 22:56
Cold air intake
Tragic! I am happy to see that this can see a second life! With your teardown i can now see how these can handle decent amount of power. The block looks very strong! I had a 2001 Sentra with the SR20DE. I loved that car i had a ton of fun driving it, until body cancer claimed it.
I love your video so much because you always gives good advice and comment to all what you’ve done and when something you don’t know you always be honest about it every single time. Learned a lot from your video thank you so much.
I'd like to see a Mazda 2.2L Turbo from a MX6 GT.. 1988 to 1992. My favorite car ever. Great videos man! Love the content and watching you tear motors apart. Your commentary is spot on. Feels like working in the shop with my buddy.
I still own two of those cars and I’ve got 8 or so complete engines so it’s likely
Great job on your videos. Appreciate that you keep them clean with lack of cursing and other BS. Keep it up!
“Lack of cursing and other BS” 🤔
I had an older Sentra with an SR20DE, great engine, great car. Ran like a swiss watch, had good power too.
Well! The inside of that engine is more thoroughly seasoned than my cast iron pans.
I had 3 vehicles in my youth with this engine. Wish I still had one. Great job as usual!
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE the notification of a new tear down
Really enjoying your videos and I agree the Nissan JDM engines are easy to work on and yes idiot proof. I'm not a mechanic but with my 795 page manual for my 180SX with a CA18DET I can do everything myself. I have done the head gasket put a exausht cam on the inlet side with adjustable can gears, changed the turbo, injectors and many other parts. My mate always comes to check to see how I done and never been a issue great engines and fun cars to drive.
It's good to see someone properly utilize the universal wrench.
Sr20det is a great engine . Tuned right they go for years . And honestly most sr20 owners don't even maintain them .
I’ve had two of these engines and both developed rod knock because of sludge. The rest of the engine looked really good though so I replaced the bearings and cleaned it up and it’s been running very strong for 4 or 5 years now. I love an sr20
Another great teardown love the variety
The SR20 does not like it if you leave the oil changes too long. The oil feeds to the cams are tiny pinhole thick, so they can get clogged easily and you end up with cams that feel like sandpaper
but this engine had nice cams and journals
@@adotintheshark4848 Yup. Which is weird. Because with the way that head looks, you'd expect them to be torn up. Might have been sitting with old oil for a while rather than being run with old oil?
@@LockieNZ the rust all over seems to agree with you
@@LockieNZ We had a SR20 Serena van come through our family shop many years ago that had chewed a lobe off, it had never had an oil change once it was imported to NZ. I remember the owners scrapped it because they couldn’t afford to fix it.
@@zeroyon4562 I'm a kiwi too ;)
Spent 9 years working at pick-n- pull. I spent a good 3-4 years underneath the drain racks as a drainer/ cat cutter/ gas tank drainer, etc. We would have to do anywhere from 30-50 cars a day. Aluminum pans would be punctured in 3 occasions; the drain plug was over torqued and caused the bolt to strip.The engine suffered major head gasket failure (10 plus minutes of draining molasses and still not done), or... out of sheer laziness. And yes, sometimes the aluminum casting would completely break and it was really bad. Anyhow, it was because we were always rushing. I'm not there anymore, much happier now.
I don’t own a sr20 but as someone with a s13 that has a KA24de in it i can dream lol
Thanks for the laid back dismantle 👌
One of the exhaust valves in the #2 looks like it's chipped on the inside edge towards the spark plug
13:02
That exhaust valve has seen better days.
Good catch!
This one clearly leaks compression massively.
Also they are way darker than the other exhaust valves, this cylinder is not hot enough to clean the exhaust valves of carbon deposits.
Cylinder 4 valves starting to do the same
your editing is flawless, makes for a great video . worth watching / seen this dark oil ,usually cheap oil run low oil
My red top is from 1989.. makes about 400hp, its going alright with stock block but almost time for a rebuild.
Throwing a rocker, chain tensioner and oil is the biggest issue with sr20s.. they have tiny capacity and a crappy pump.. imports are a gamble as they never seem to change the oil in japan.
Absolutely great engines.
Watching these makes me appreciate all my volvo 5 cylinders more. They’re so much easier to disassemble
Yes, however that is offset by the embarrassment you suffer from driving a Volvo.
@@johncoops6897 you’re not keen on Volvos, have 3 over 300hp and awd. One being a 6 speed manual hitting 20lbs of boost…to each their own
How do you figure this the sr20 is probably the easiest 4 cylinder of its era to work on I don't no how it could be any easier without making comprise
The only hard thing is removing the cam cover with it's 10 thousand bolts and then reassembling them with lots of thread repair kits ready. Apart from that working on them is great.
Sport Compact Car and Project Car Mag destroyed the SR20DET market…. That and the “couple of SR20 motors pulling a premium a week before race wars…” franchise.
"You guys are probably laughing at me" NO WAY! I've watched dozens of yours now, and never laughed at you. Often laughed at your jokes, tho. Keep up the great work.
I've owned four 240SX's (89, 91 and two 96's) I've torn down and rebuilt several interations of KA24, but never an SR20DET.
I had a nicely modded SR20DET in a Nissan Sylvia (S15) running at around 280bhp. This, in a car that weighed 1,240 kg! It was an absolute hoot! I miss it terribly. These engines in the UK go for around £2,000-£3,500 at the moment.
Few things I’d like to say:
1) there’s workshop manuals on how to disassemble this engine free
2) they aren’t expensive to repair and lots of spares are available
3) impact tools aren’t good for these old motors
4) I’ve never seen an oil pickup like the one in this engine before
Great. Video, 👍
I find these videos you do as strangely addictive
i just received a sr20 turbo that the guy believes spun a rod bearing and this video has helped a bit on what i should expect upon disassembly unfortunately I feel even less prepared to deal with it
Nothing better then watching Eric do his thing in his comical/informative way.
Da-bris
Adjustable connecting rods
Great start to a morning. Thanks bud.
22 years in the trade, I'm a Subaru EJ and Jeep 4.0L fan (while being aware of all their short comings)
Had my first crack at the new Subaru motors when i bought 2013 Outback with a FB25B with burnt exhaust valve.
I remember playing Need for Speed Underground 2 and using the 240 all the way to the end
Got a like before I even started watching lol. I love Nissan JDM rice burning motors! Wish I could give a heart instead of a thumbs up.
Not like it matters all this time later but did you notice the chunks missing from one of the valves in either cylinder 2 or 3? I don’t recall what position the head was in but I can’t imagine that cylinder making much compression with those pieces missing lol
Edit check out 13:03 and it is visible on the exhaust side I believe
The tension on that chain is normal for an SR. The tensioner is powered by oil pressure and only holds tension when the motor is running.
Knowing which tool to use at the appropriate time is key...special wrench ftw.
Ive seen SR build rebuild breakdown vids and follow all the channels but this is the clearest breakdown ive seen yet. Most other vids skip huge chunks of the process but here its all there. Ill sub for that
That is the engine on a car in one of the cars in fast and the furious. First time seeing òne of these engines up close thank you for the video ❤🇨🇦
I really enjoy your videos. I always await your posts every Saturday.
Great video
Hello from Chattanooga Tn! Subscribed! Stumbled on your channel and i am really enjoying your videos. Im not even a car guy and or mechanic but i feel i am learning a few things now. Thanks for that and keep up the good work!
Love these teardowns! I'd like to see a video where you put together a project engine from a table full of clean parts and a bare block!
I bought a used 1 owner Mazda MX6 LS with 90K miles, v6 (200 HP) 5 speed for $1,500 and it was so much fun to drive, I sold it 10 years later to a friend for $1,500 with 94K miles, I sub I still had it
Is it just me, or is the sound of cracking cam caps loose the most satisfying sound in these videos?
Great content. I always love seeing different motors you don't see all the time!
Always look forward to your Saturday evening video! 😁👍
Such a treat to watch u tear engines down
Water pump removal was step # 1. Good video
I can't tell you why, I don't think I really have a good reason, I've just never been a BMW fan. But, I very much like your pretty little blue coupe, that is one very beautiful automobile. Since you had it at the shop I'm going to assume your driving it regularly now, which is great, you deserve to enjoy it. Another interesting video, thanks for sharing.
I hated BMWs until I owned one. I still hate it but I can’t deny, it’s one of the best driving vehicles ever made. And Somewhat easy to work on.
Bro I have one of these in my 93 G20 p10. By far one of my most favorite vehicles to own and drive.
Nice Job I’ve Worked on Many of These Nissans Over the Years 😀😊😀
The same engine I am running in my 1968 Datsun 510, with upgrades on stock block 400hp
I miss my 240 sr20det.. such a great little car
I would simply strip down, hone, new rings & bearings, with new seals & gaskets. Job done.
Good job buddy. Nice engine, very salvageable. Funny how that piston popped right out of the block. Thanks for sharing. Big Al
Really a nice engine- looks simple well designed and engineered. I like it.
0 compression is always valve related unless you don't have a piston in 1 piece which is quite obvious if you do.
yeah I'm guessing the valves were timed 360 degrees out so it looked right but never made compression. some shade tree rebuild that was forgotten when it didn't work.
My biggest regret was selling my mint 1990 240sx in 2004. At least it went to a kid who had all the parts to do the Silvia conversion - it went to an enthusiast who appreciated the car. Still wish I had kept it :p
Look at Cylinder head, number 2 has burnt exhaust valves, they are not round and are darker color than other valves.
Did anyone else note that one exhaust valve in #2 that has the edges all busted up? Trashed. Surprised he didn’t flash on that.
Yep. Somebody is getting SLOOPYYYYYY. 🧐😅
A well maintained even med-high tuned SR20s are almost bloody bomb proof. I had one (P11 Primera GT Which I believe is an infinity G20) in a car that had done a little under 190,000 miles with no known history (I paid peanuts for the car). The sump held tar and to be honest it responded VERY well to a service, new filters and plugs. Amazing engine. Also the SR20DE/T was from Nissan. Pre Renault buy in/out where quality became an afterthought (Just like with Renaults).
well.. the obvious #FKGhosn needs to be said in here...
I believe there is a procedure for properly loosening either the head bolts, or cam shaft bolts. Not quite sure though. Great engine love these guys
It can be honed out. Looks decent!
I had three SER Sentras just because it had this wonderful engine..
Damn. Been 18 years since I messed with a red top sr in my s14. Life was good.
the scream is dry rubber from being dry to long and the lack of tension on the chain is dude to no oil pressure it will be loose until you start the car
Any way you can find a Lambda II GDi 3.3 engine TT from the following and do a tear down?
2017-present Genesis G70
2016-2020 Genesis G80
2015-present Genesis G90
2018-present Kia K9
2017-present Kia Stinger
Just seeing the chipped valves was a indicator that it's not a running engine
THANK YOU FOR THIS, THIS IS HOW I LEARN!!!!!!!!!
Somewhere, Adam LZs soul left his body, listening to that engine turn over.
21:41 love the wrench!
I work at LKQ and we do not puncture the pans, we pull the plug like ur supposed to.
I absolutely love your videos. Thanks for publishing these, and keep up the great work!
Texhnically you CAN compress water.. it just presses back at a certain point
The oil is probably dark like that from soot from an improper tune (rich)
@13:01 the valve is missing chunks
Back in the day, a way to decarbonize a engine was using water to make steam, best way to clean a engine. High Rev! Drip water in the intake.
Is that a drill or an impact you're using on the valve cover? I tried using my impact on a valve cover and it broke the head off two bolts. Unlucky? Or is there a trick to not breaking the heads off with small bolts (10mm-16mm)?
You might want to check out the head at 13:03---one of those exhaust valves has chips taken out of it
burnt,prob lean out overboost
Wow I’m impressed, assembling those cam cap thingy’s back on the engine was spectacular! A rare look at your engine assembly skill! 😂
Would be curious to see a video on a LL8 (4200 Vortec) if at all possible, ive always been so curious to see one torn apart. Love all the content none the less 👌✌ keep it up
I would have liked to see how you dealt with all those broken bolts. It seems like that would be hard to take care of while preserving the value of the parts.
You’re missing the bottom part of the oil pickup. You shouldn’t see the screen, it should be covered by a cone to suck up oil from the bottom of the pan. No idea how it didn’t run dry of oil without that.
Really? Well maybe they just kept it overfull 🤷♂️
this is an early gen sr, no fins casted on the front of the head. that's the way the oil pickup was designed.
id say that block is entirely savable
if it's not cracked from overheat
That was my question too. He talked about parts being good but that block looks useable to me. 🎉
this video is so good keep this up
I thought I was the worst for *Dropsy,* as in I drop lots of stuff unless I pay *close* attention to what my hands are doing. Can’t take anything for granted…
That is the engine I would like to swap into my 1985 Nissan 720 4X4. I do not want it dfor drag racing, just to bring my old truck power up a few notches for todays highway speeds. The Z24 engines were so gutless, but back then speed limits were 55 and 60 so you did not need much more in a 4x4 truck, but the extra power would be nice.