Teaching a dog to back up without using body pressure
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
- This is a followup to my video about Negative vs Positive Reinforcement. It shows a method of teaching a dog to back up without stepping into their space, looming over them, pulling them backwards, or waving your hands in their face. This method is not original to me; I read about it on the ClickerSolutions Yahoo group. Discussion at eileenanddogs.c.... I have not made Part 2 of this video yet.
You honestly don’t even need part two! I taught my boy how to back up within a couple days! Thank you for the wonderful video!
JUST MAKE A PART TWO ALREADY!!!!! It's been four years. Major procrastination right there.
This is the best video I have seen to teach a dog to back up. Thank you!!!
Where's part two?? It's been EIGHT YEARS!
Good job - so important for people to understand how to teach their dogs to back up without intimidation!
Great video! I'm so glad you posted this. It's easy to forget that body pressure can be aversive to dogs. That is one happy little worker. :-)
This worked on my mother in law as well! Thank you!
Great method! I use a chair and toss food under the chair but it is the same concept. I love your demo with the stuffed dog. 5 STARS!! Lovely tutorial! Thank you! :)
This is great! I'm going to use this method to teach my boy how to back up. I taught my girl with all of the methods you described (looming, waving hands, etc.), but luckily she still happily backs up on cue. However my boy is much more sentitive to body pressure. I love this method!
Thank you! This video helps problem solve working with my miniature horse to get her to backup.
This is really awesome for dogs which does not mind going into confined spaces to get the treat. :) I too worked out a method to teach a dog to back up without the use of body pressure but the owner's aiming must be really good. It is to roll or toss a treat straight between the dog's front legs and he will back up to get the treat and introduce the back up cue and minimize the huge action of tossing or rolling the treat to form a hand signal.
Thank you this gave me lots of new ideas.
I LOVE this!!! Thank you so much! I always try to stay positive w/my little girl, & I hated doing the 'pressure back' w/her.. she already knows how to back up now, but I might do a 'refresher' w/this, just to associate the action w/more positive feelings. :)
This is very helpful, both for the specific skill and clicker training in general. Thanks! Can't wait to try this at home.
Thanks David!
Thanks for the video.
@inobodyelsbuti What an interesting comment. I had to watch my own video again. I see that I do move my legs as she moves and sometimes anticipate a little. The goal with shaping is to let the dog figure it out herself. My whole body should be as quiet as possible until she moves. When it's not, that's not something you need to emulate! I probably won't make another vid of this but you have helped me improve other future vids. Thanks.
How can I find part 2 please?
Loved part 1
smoon3, still haven't made Part 2. But I will one of these days.
This is working! My sweet dog is easily intimidated, and leaning over her is a huge no-no and will result in a puddle. She was really excited to learn this way though, and almost offered me a "back up" even without the tunnel after the first session with a cut-up hot dog and some cat treats.
Your feeding your DOG cat treats??? You've got problems....
@@EarthlingCanine LOL okay. They are the perfect size for training and very tasty and stinky, so she loves them.
So wonderful, thank you! I think part 2 hasn’t been posted yet? At what level of proficiency would you add the verbal cue? Thanks! ❤️🐶❤️
This is a nice attempt, i do find that the throwing behind the back is too similar to an emergency stop and gets the pup confused, as well as walking backwards with hin... i learnt one way with my trainer which was very easy, not sure you appreciate me sharing this on your lovely video! I hope so, here it is: spread your legs and call yourdog to come pick up a treat on the floor between your legs. Then drop the treat slightly behind the arch of your leg so the dog has to come a little further under your legs, very little. The dog will then back up slightly to look at you for where the treat source is (you).Watch for the back leg to start moving backwards from your legs' arch and click that, reward. You could also put a towel or a mat slightly behind your dog at a short distance so he/she has a touch reference for her back legs to feel they need to reach something, a different material than the one the other legs are touching. I hope you don0t mind me sharing this with you and that you appreciate it as i did as it really polished the instructions and made the learning faster for my pup, who is old and has back legs problems (this exercise has been recommended for his condition)
:)
I’m confused, my dog understands back up because we’ve cornered her in a long path with a bunch of things on the side and we tell her to do it and she does, yet when I take her out of that pathway, she turns into an idiot and goes sideways. How do I even train this
Love this
Great video. Have you made the Part 2 video yet?
This is awesome, love it!
this was very helpful!
This is a great, user friendly way to teach this behavior without pressure. But personally, do you prefer this approach to pure shaping and why/why not? Just curious.
Why are you not making more videos?
thanks for showing this video
You are welcome!
I know this is an old video, but just a quick general question. Do you notice a difference between using the clicker and not using a clicker? I have been marker training my puppy, but I stopped using the clicker months ago. I now only mark with the word, " Yes".
My turn to be nice to you :-D How awesome.. I do use a marking sound but i also use a clicker. Depends on what works with what. I always tell my students to pick a word that they never use other then as a marker to keep the marker "exclusive" and not a word i might say in other situations. like yes.. it can loose it's value if you forget and use that and not reward... You can several markers - depends on the energy level you want.. if you train agility you want energy - if you train boundary games to keep your dog at its bed , you need calm markers. but they all work as a trigger as you already do.. but find words you do not use normally.. I also use premack cues - i have 2 of them.. It is not confusing for the dog if you just introduce them in the environment /setting it is ment to be. high energy or low energy.. and the premack's.. so sum it all up : i have clicker, 2 premacks and 1 working cue.. :)
Chris, I only use a clicker when I need precision which is hardly every. To me, using a clicker for a general behavior has drawbacks--the very precision of it can backfire if one's timing is not perfect. I generally use a Yes marker or no marker at all. The dogs get it perfectly well. Remember--markers were developed for unusual situations where precision or a bridge was needed between the marker and the treat. If the dog is right in front of me and we are working on down or sit, I would not use one. That said, lots of people use them for everything, even duration behaviors. So YMMV.
@katy06dog I sent you a UA-cam message since UA-cam won't allow URLs in comments. Thanks for watching!
Interesting method.
I do it in a similar way, except that I usa a clicker, and I start with the low value treat between my heels. I don't move my body and do not intimidate the dog. But once he's got the treat, he looks up at me, and naturally goes a step back to be able to see me. He gets the click + high value treat as he takes the step back. Then I'll click and treat for 2 steps, etc...
Wonderful!
Where's part 2?
Is this dog a Rat Terrier?
Beautiful dog.
I had them years ago.
Ratties are the bomb.
Where is the part II?
Lol i did the first one of not what to do! Lol thanks for the video.
Just wanna say it didn't work on my dog...
Damn awesome, guess back the fuck up don’t work. imma try this.
smart
how does a dog supposed to be served as a backup
when do you put a cue on?
I really need to make the followup movie! I put on a cue when I can get 3-6 steps of confident, straight backing up consistently. More than just a little spurt.
moirhann Cues come after you lure and/or capture the behavior to begin with. Build the "muscle memory" first, then start giving the command a name as your dog starts doing it more fluidly.
Thank you for your answer :) so 3-6 steps.. sounds great. such a huge variation on when trainers put the cue on.. I have always wondered what people are most happy with. what gives the best results. fex. i am now training both my dogs to push a ball back to me..I first had to teach them "touch" with the nose - and also i saw that when they did learn how to also use their leg "paw on" it was a lot easier to NOT have them to use their paw by mistake.. but i see that by chaining behaviors it takes longer time before they get the cue for the whole chain because it has involved a lot of other cues for each step. So i have to regulate to see when they can take the "chain cue".. sorry for my bad english.. scandinavian.. but i hope you understand what i am trying to explain :) Love your videos - and thank your for all your great mails as well.. great inspiration
Thank you :) I was mostly asking because i see that this is done quite differently from trainer to trainer.. i have even seen some do it almost at once - although i do not think that is a good way.. they need to be able to concentrate and really get it first.. but who knows.. i have seen it be done and it actually worked. Regards - Ann
Part 2
Hey any part 2 yet?
Not yet but I still have it planned!
my dog just started sitting and spining when i tried to do that!!
Where is the fuck is part 2 Helen?
Thanks for the video.