Fosi Audio V3 Mono TPA3255 Based Mini Amp Details and Pre-Order on KICKSTARTER: fosiaudio-inc.kckb.me/17899320 Fosi Audio Official - bit.ly/za3influtrack *RELATED VIDEOS* Fosi Audio V3 Review: ua-cam.com/video/U0JwSR0yS_A/v-deo.html Fosi Audio BT20A-PRO Review - ua-cam.com/video/b1zFuLK655g/v-deo.html More Power in than Out? ua-cam.com/video/c7QELbpKMuI/v-deo.html Mini Amps Video Playlist - is.gd/walminiamps Fosi Audio V3 Mono - Not Available on Amazon Yet Fosi Audio V3 (original, non-mono version)- amzn.to/3PkrK2g Fosi Audio ZA3: amzn.to/41zmrjT 48V 5A Power Supply - amzn.to/3L68Olc Elac Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers: amzn.to/3Mmdbcz SAVARD HO12 Elite Subwoofer: lddy.no/1jdxd (use WAL7 for 7% off) 12ga OFC Speaker Wire: amzn.to/3UyGhKm Speaker Wire Banana Plugs: amzn.to/3xRZaz8 _DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases_
Please 🙏 dyno test these home receivers really curious to see if they put out the same watts as the old school pioneer SX models. ( Pioneer vsx 9500s , pioneer 9700s , pioneer vsx 9900s or the top of the line Pioneer vsx D1s . These are 1990s models !!!! Please 🙏
TPA chip amps are incrediable. Im just stunned by the power and sound quality their capable of. Not all are the same though, implementation/design of the opamp and feedback circuitry can vary and does make a big difference.
I've been using a little Fosi 20WPC amp (TPA3116 V 1.0G) on my main computer, driven by an Audient iD14 interface, and driving JVC full-range speakers with Fostex kevlar drivers, for about two years now. It's left powered up 24 hours a day and it has never caused a problem and it sounds great driving the 4-ohm JVC's. I love that tiny little amp!
Fosi is doing some really excellent stuff... my trials with the Sparkos chipped ZA3 have left me amazed that so much quality sound can come from such a small and clearly well made package. Second the motion for the amped meter package, with a matching pre-amp with a couple more inputs and controls. That would be awesome. Thanks as always and regards.
End of video crew to the fullest!!! These amps really do show good things can come in small packages. I’m glad they listen and improve! That’s a sign of a good company!! Overall this amp does pack a punch. 🥊 Great to see these components doing well power-wise too!
It's funny that they send that adapter for the power supply, the big advantage on a hifi mono block is you get separate power supplys, running both amps on a single powe supply is the equivalent to a stereo amplifier.
@@j.r.3644 Nope ... the trick is to have two separate sets of resevoir caps. The caps store energy for transients and deep bass. They can share AC, even AC cords so long as the DC outputs are isolated from one another.
@@mattmiller4978 Actually... for reasons of overheating, I generally suggest 36 volt, 5 or 6 amp supplies. In this case one for each channel. The amp will run cooler, it won't trigger supply shutdowns or go into protection and the sound quality is every bit as good as at 48 volts. You only lose about 2db of headroom which is seldom an issue in normal use.
just in case anyone is curious... yes, they do sound very good with headphones connected to the output banana jacks... just be careful with the volume on your source...
Yeah, they are not much more expensive, so just buy them with dual PSUs. That's what I've done, it's an option for many, but come on there is not really any excuse to go with the one supply.
NICE TEST! I am surprised at the 2-ohm wattage. I am working with a Fosi Audio BT 20A Pro (the one you tested). It hated 48v (8-amp booster installed) with a 4-ohm load. It went into shut down mode when things started to get "fun". So, I swapped it with a 36v (10-amp) booster and it hasn't gone into "shut down" mode and makes good power. Hmm. Overall, I like the BT 20A Pro for my portable speaker builds. It really has great sound and BT connectivity vs Douk and Nobsounds. This Fosi V3 Mono is def interesting too. 48v (10-amp) AC/DC adapters cost about as much as the amplifiers themselves if you can find one that isn't junk. Thank you for doing tests on these mini digital chip amps. What you do is AWESOME!
@@ChrisDIYerOklahoma Hey Chris. I enjoy your builds. I use the BT20A Pro in my ammo can builds. I run it off a DIY 48v lithium pack that I only charge to about 48.9v. I remove the amp from its case and solder the power and speaker leads directly to the board. I replace the Fosi heat sink with the one Texas Instruments specs. Just search for TPA3255 heat sink. It’s a lot beefier. I run these builds at full volume on huge bike rides in Houston. Don’t ask, it’s a Houston thing. Lol. The amp never shuts down due to thermal overload. My current build is running 6.5 Deaf Bonce woofers and 4” Pioneer Pro Tweets. This thing is ridiculous.
Amazing , so small and a lot of power. I have Sony home receiver from late 80s , 120wrms at 8ohms and 235wrms at 4ohms , and it would take about 50 or more of the Fosi amps to equal its size , unbelievable . It would be interesting to see how Fosi amp would sound next to a large home receiver with comparable output. As usual thanks for another great video. Keep up the good work.
@@SilmarilS79 they are charging $1750 for the pair. you can get way better integrated amp or stereo reciever for that money. who cares how small it is? is that what you tell your girlfriend too, the smaller the better?
I've noticed some tech reviewers are testing the class D amps with white noise? or multi-tones all at once, to simulate more complex music signals. Rather than just 1 constant test signal at 1khz. The results indicate that amps like the WiiM amp they measured, were great at 1khz but lost 30% of their power or more, when tested with multi-tones. This should give a better idea of how amps perform with complex signals that are more similar to music. I believe it was Erin's Audio Corner and Scientific Audiophile that discovered the WiiM amp was having problems maintaining power output with multi-tone signals. Any chance you might try multi-tone measurements, so we can get a better idea of what the amp's capable of with more demanding simulated music signals? Thanks. If not, you're still doing us a great service with your amp measurements, and it's much appreciated.
While I agree that more rigorous testing is always a good idea, please be aware that White Noise in no way simulates a musical signal. In fact it is a torture signal we use to see what it takes to kill an amplifier. White Noise is random frequencies all at full power. Music doesn't even get close to that level of stress. The same for "multitone" tests... fixed frequencies at full power. Typically music decreases in level with frequency being most powerful at bass frequencies, tapering down to a mere fraction at 8khz (See the Fletcher-Munson "Equal Loudness" curves).. Also be aware that the highest note on the musical scale (C8) is only at 4189hz. Above that all content is harmonic, existing mostly as low level bursts of sound. There is almost no content over about 12000hz. So a music simulation would be a frequency limited random level test that is EQed down a curved slope to 0 at 12000hz. I've yet to see any of these so called scientific reviewers using anything even remotely like that. If you don't believe me... get some spectrum analyser software for your phone or PC and look at the display while music plays... Also note that SA's own reference amplifier failed his white noise test, going into protection after a couple of hours where the V3M got blistering hot but kept on playing. His mission to make these mini-amps look bad isn't working out very well for him.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 I wonder if a more realistic torture test would be to send a signal that resembles white noise up to 4khz, and resembles pink noise above 4kHz. No, I don't know what you'd call this.
@@JoelHernandez-tz3vk There are specifications for White and Pink noise. The pink noise is designed to closely mimic music and does follow the normal musical decay with frequency.
End of video as always! Still luvin' my Fosi BT20A pro, which is hooked to this computer, a couple of Minimus 7 speakers and a small(ish) Velodyne sub. Really pleased with the Fosi quality and sound. Need to hook up my Fosi DAC soon, too.. Keep on keepin' on! Stu
Thanks for the review. Fosi used to make a 200 watt bluetooth amp (1002t) and a 2.1 200 watt amp. I was using them in Bluetooth speaker (boombox) builds. The sound quality and ability to power the speakers were incredible. Unfortunately Fosi change the greeting tone to an Asian lady voice saying "Bluetooth mode". I wish Fosi went back to making those amps. The current ones(clones) on E-Bay (not Fosi) are hit and miss with sound quality and feedback noise when no music is playing. Big D, please consider review the Djanguo amps, especially the S350HS.
Tpa 3255 allows 20-25 watts (clean) with a distortion of less than 0.1% even at 20 kHz at 4 Hom and 8 Hom. The power is bigger but if you want a good hi-fi it is about 25 watts because beyond it gets dirty like all class D.
I love these, I'm thinking about building my own Hi Res Sound quality car amp rack build out of this Fosi stuff.. Using a 50 amp 12 volt Dc variable step up transformer to 36 volts constant current with power filters on the outputs for power, With proper fusing of coarse.. Running off of a DSP.. I bet it would sound out of this world, Lol. And fairly affordable as well.
It has 3x 2 channel Ti NE5532 opamps. 1) I-V conversion. 2) LPF. 3) Buffer (for output). Post Filter Feedback Tech (PFFT) would likely be negative feedback taken from after the second opamp.
Awesome you have come a long way. I have been here for the whole journey (unfortunately not all on one account) just watched you video on your career on 1320 keep doing you I wish I could afford to come meet you and or get some merch I have been delt some bad card between the hurricane at 8 in of water in my house then i got hit by a car on my ebike lost job and now struggling to get back on track but your video's keep me positive
First efficiency calculation I have seen on this one. Have you thought about measuring efficiency in lower volume settings? This would be very interesting.
40Hz test please. I have a velodyne home sub with a bad amp and want to see if this would be a suitable replacement and the amp is no longer in production.
don't you need something with a crossover? might want to look at a plate amp or something like dayton audio sa230. because these would push even less watts using as a bass amp
@XX-121 home theater receivers have a built-in adjustable crossover with level (gain) control. It's not necessary to have a crossover within the amplifier architecture, itself. Also, having double processing (which is unnecessary) only allows for more component failure and introduction of noise thru redundant circuitry.
Great vid as always, just want to point out measuring amps on the ac input of power bricks might not give correct results if the brick does not have active PFC. This is easy to check for power factor or comparing the VA and watts readings on the kill-a-watt meter under load. If it's wildly different, it means it doesn't have APFC and the watts reading should be used.
End of the video crew! Seems a 30A power supply and wowzah, could they rock?! So good to see manufacturers listen. This day and age it feels like we are destined to garbage. Not anymore!
Dammit, Big D, not only do you have the power switch on the amp dyno oriented in the classic UK style, you just have to trigger me again with swapping the red/black wires at the 2:20 mark. You sir, are a caution! ;-)
Hi Big D, i've been seeing tones of full albums & music on youtube with NO copy write issues any more..Just look up any artist Lets see more home amp tests ":)
@@jamesplotkin4674 an amp's and amp. it would be a fair fight, it should make it's rated power regardless. but this can't even do that with a measly 1khz signal. so yeah, over rated like most class d. you look in the spec sheets of these things and they tell you it'll give you X watts @10%thd and no one will ever run 10% in the real world. 1% already sounds like shht as it is.
I would like to see them put the little notches. The clicks in the knobs on them. At the very least, a center detent position, and that's 7 ban EQ they Should extend that to a ten or a twelve band.
Hey, point your FLIR at the power cables for that setup!! I bet those barrel plugs are a significant source of loss, perhaps even shutting down the amps.
Pretty sure it's the PSU that is maxed out. Since they don't shut down used one at a time and with more power. So the barrel connector is not at fault here.. I do think it's a good idea to change the power cable between the PSU and the amp, removing connectors in the path.
I cant stand those coaxial connectors. They are probably fine but Im alays fixing whats not broken.. Removed mine and soldered about 6" of fine stranded silicone insulated #14 copper with a xt60 connector directly to the PCB. XT60s are my standard connector for my "low current" lipo/lion batteries/DC power supplies. Anything above 1kw I switch to XT90s, above 3500kw are XT50s.
Thanks for the testing. Much appreciated. 👍 This has confirmed my choice of ordering a pair a few weeks back but with separate 48/5A supplies. Perhaps I should have opted for 2 x 48/10A supplies? Regardless, I'm looking forward to adding them to my system to allow me the time to overhaul my Hafler XL600, which I've been running from new many many many years ago. I'm really curious to see how these modern Class D amps stack up against my Hafler.
I think with music two of the 5A supplies would be more than enough and the included “pseudo” 10A power supply would be sufficient as well. The load tests I do are much harder on the amp and power supplies than music
As much as I do love the two-channel amplifier that I bought from them I've made eight separate contacts through email because they don't have a direct line to obtain a remote replacement with no success so the factory support after the fact I can't say is good
i have an earlier version, more powefull than my classic sony TA FB940R which iv had since 1995, ish, and still use. the sound quality from my old sony blows the little class D amp away. No match for my big heavy, red hot mid budget amp of its day, sound quality in mids ,clarity, trebble and depth are miles apart. the little Fosi is great for partys and drum n bass stuff, but for music, ill keep me sony
thank you. someone with some sense. these fools gonna drop $1750 on a pair of these "chip amps". that can't even make rated power. and gonna have them hooked up to some 8 ohm house speakers.
@XX-121 $1750? 2 of these v3 monos is about $220USD with power supply. Putting out 100w per/ch at 8ohm 1% THD seems pretty good for most people's requirements 🤷♂️
Great video! I was just looking into them last night as they sent me an email to the Kickstarter link. I bought the OG V3 to run a pair of rear height speakers off my Denon X3800, as I have 9 running off the internal amps with 2 more channels available for processing. I'm considering 3 of these for front LCR as my speakers can handle much more than they're getting. What I'm wondering now is if it would be better to get the 48v/5a power supply they offer for each instead of sharing a 48v/10a on 2. Thanks for the video though!
The entire concept of a monoblock is that it should be a fully isolated amplifier. Separate electronics, separate power supplies, separate signal paths. When you start Y connecting them, you re-introduce differing load effects on the power supply and all the noise and crosstalk that implies. Having studied the TPA3255 chip pretty thoroughly I would advise that your best bet with an amplifier in a closed casing (even if the case is the heat sink) is to use dual 36 volt 5 or 6 amp power bricks with them. They will run cooler, they won't trip into overcurrent or protection and you're only losing about 2db of output, which would be barely noticeable.
not really. doesn't make rated power (as usual) and plus most people are going to use these inside @8ohms ...maybe 6? now if it actually made 300 usable watts, full bandwidth, less than1% distortion at 8 ohms, then it would have been slightly interesting. oh and plus it was kicking the overcurrent protection and shutting off. i'd consider that a fail. so really it was only good for the 8 ohm rating anyway. unless you want to buy another one of those power supplies. prob adds another $75. but you don't really need it anyway because no house speakers are 4 ohms.
Do you know of any house amplifiers capable of powering custom speaker enclosures that is more than 150w per channel? Low impedance is a plus. All I could find that wasn't in the thousands of dollars was a Pyle.....it said 2 ohm. I hooked up the 2.5 ohm speaker enclosures and it sounded great for 2 songs then it released the factory smoke. Lol
Thanks for another detailed reviews. Without your review of this mono block amp, I wouldn't realize about the existence of this amazing amp. Actually I'm in the market looking for a pair of mono block amps. Wondering if it is possible to have a detail review of the newest release of Aiyima a70 mono. Just wanna to compare with the V3 mono, then make a decision, thanks a lot !!
would anyone believe me if i say i run a Fosi Audio BT20A-PRO on 2 18subs and 2 15 for mids from electrovoice? already for a year now... and yes fosi does a great job of quality. the only limitation of this amps is the supply really. Once v3 mono is available i might switch to 2 of those...if i can get the supply and yes the ideea of vu meters on the front of the mono would be great.
Not sure why I can’t order two of the V3 I go to the site where it sends me. And there is no place to order from. I am talking about the monoblock amps
Here is a link to 2 of the V3 mono amps plus the same power supply I showed. Remember, this is a pre-order and these won't ship until around June - www.kickstarter.com/projects/fosiaudio/fosi-audio-v3-mono-power-amplifier/rewards#reward-UmV3YXJkLVVtVjNZWEprTFRrNE9EQTJORGs9
I think these would be great to set up a 7.1.4 Atmos home theatre. One V3 mono per speaker, so 11 amps. You will get great power & still be much cheaper than using stereo or a home theatre amps. So maybe $1500 all up for amps. A Sparky to install some power sockets.
👎 just get a receiver and plug it in. you won't need an electrician and won't look like a goober with a bunch of those things and a stack of brick sized power supplies :smh:
@@XX-121 A receiver with 11ch of amplification would only have 40-50 clean watts of power. Using these will give so, so much better sound & dynamics, which is exactly what you want for home theatre use. You will get better sound separation of the channels. Are you the guy that uses head unit for your front speakers?? Cause they state they have 50w x 4 power??
@@XX-121 No I'm not, hence why I mentioned that these would be something to think about. To get this amount of power & dynamics for a home theatre set up, would cost $10,000 plus. Hence why these would make a good budget option for just over $1200. And please don't mention using a receiver's built in amps. Nothing will come close .
@@purplehazeffc you're delusional. besides most house speakers are 8 ohms so they're not gonna be pushing much over 100w and that's at 1khz. just like the rest of these chip amp they're gonna push even less when driven hard. and you would need new power supplies for them if you gonna be pushing lower ohm loads anyway because they only ship with 5A ones.
That particular CD player has a weird pin out for XLR which I’ve seen on some older pro audio amplifiers pin three is positive and and pin 2 is negative On all newer equipment that I’ve seen pin two is positive pin three is negative just something to keep in mind
That’s why I said just something to keep in mind in my case, I had phase issues because one of my amps pin two was positive. The other pin three was positive
He is doing resistive test. Which put a way bigger load on the PSU than music, which is transient. I doubt people would really max the 5amp/amp setup. And it you really need 300w+ of power, these might not be the product for you.
Unless you are hell bent on bursting your eardrums most of your listening probably happens at less than 5 watts with occasional peaks to 20 or 30 watts. So, for most people the 32 volt 5 amp supply will be just fine. If you are a bit nuts and want "concert hall" levels in your living room I would recommend, a pair of 36 volt 5 amp supplies. The problem with the 48 volt supplies is heat... a fully enclosed case like these mini-amps use will get blistering hot inside on 48 volts.
Fosi Audio V3 Mono TPA3255 Based Mini Amp
Details and Pre-Order on KICKSTARTER: fosiaudio-inc.kckb.me/17899320
Fosi Audio Official - bit.ly/za3influtrack
*RELATED VIDEOS*
Fosi Audio V3 Review: ua-cam.com/video/U0JwSR0yS_A/v-deo.html
Fosi Audio BT20A-PRO Review - ua-cam.com/video/b1zFuLK655g/v-deo.html
More Power in than Out? ua-cam.com/video/c7QELbpKMuI/v-deo.html
Mini Amps Video Playlist - is.gd/walminiamps
Fosi Audio V3 Mono - Not Available on Amazon Yet
Fosi Audio V3 (original, non-mono version)- amzn.to/3PkrK2g
Fosi Audio ZA3: amzn.to/41zmrjT
48V 5A Power Supply - amzn.to/3L68Olc
Elac Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers: amzn.to/3Mmdbcz
SAVARD HO12 Elite Subwoofer: lddy.no/1jdxd (use WAL7 for 7% off)
12ga OFC Speaker Wire: amzn.to/3UyGhKm
Speaker Wire Banana Plugs: amzn.to/3xRZaz8
_DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases_
PLEASE please please rerun this test using a single mono, and testing between the 5A and "10A" (6.25A) power supplies Fosi offer.
@@AdamTait-hy2qh tell us you didn't watch the video without telling us you didn't watch the video
Please 🙏 dyno test these home receivers really curious to see if they put out the same watts as the old school pioneer SX models. ( Pioneer vsx 9500s , pioneer 9700s , pioneer vsx 9900s or the top of the line Pioneer vsx D1s . These are 1990s models !!!! Please 🙏
It would be VERY good for you to rerun this test on a single amp, testing between the "10A" and "5A" power supplies.
TPA chip amps are incrediable. Im just stunned by the power and sound quality their capable of. Not all are the same though, implementation/design of the opamp and feedback circuitry can vary and does make a big difference.
I've been using a little Fosi 20WPC amp (TPA3116 V 1.0G) on my main computer, driven by an Audient iD14 interface, and driving JVC full-range speakers with Fostex kevlar drivers, for about two years now. It's left powered up 24 hours a day and it has never caused a problem and it sounds great driving the 4-ohm JVC's. I love that tiny little amp!
End of video crew, For Sure! This here is my favorite part!
Westside/Eastside gangs looking at End Gang with nothing but respect.
Clearly you need one power supply per amp if you want the best from them. Killer product for the $ there.
Fosi is doing some really excellent stuff... my trials with the Sparkos chipped ZA3 have left me amazed that so much quality sound can come from such a small and clearly well made package.
Second the motion for the amped meter package, with a matching pre-amp with a couple more inputs and controls. That would be awesome.
Thanks as always and regards.
Loving the home audio Dyno I'm in the middle of hooking up my house with audio in every room.
End of video crew to the fullest!!! These amps really do show good things can come in small packages. I’m glad they listen and improve! That’s a sign of a good company!! Overall this amp does pack a punch. 🥊 Great to see these components doing well power-wise too!
It's funny that they send that adapter for the power supply, the big advantage on a hifi mono block is you get separate power supplys, running both amps on a single powe supply is the equivalent to a stereo amplifier.
@@j.r.3644 there is lots of high end amps made with separate power supplies for L and R channels it's nothing new
@@j.r.3644 Discrete generators on separate continents, you mean.
One power supply is fine, so long as it's big enough. The one they sent isn't.
@@j.r.3644
Nope ... the trick is to have two separate sets of resevoir caps. The caps store energy for transients and deep bass. They can share AC, even AC cords so long as the DC outputs are isolated from one another.
Important to note shared power supplies are an option. Another option is separate 48/5 GaN power supplies.
@@mattmiller4978
Actually... for reasons of overheating, I generally suggest 36 volt, 5 or 6 amp supplies. In this case one for each channel. The amp will run cooler, it won't trigger supply shutdowns or go into protection and the sound quality is every bit as good as at 48 volts. You only lose about 2db of headroom which is seldom an issue in normal use.
just in case anyone is curious... yes, they do sound very good with headphones connected to the output banana jacks... just be careful with the volume on your source...
If you want to get the most out of these amps you need both with their own power supply
Yeah, they are not much more expensive, so just buy them with dual PSUs. That's what I've done, it's an option for many, but come on there is not really any excuse to go with the one supply.
I came here for the Power testing. Thanks.
They are audiophile grade with a 70hz hi pass and good preamplifier
End of the video crew for sure!! FOSI doin big things in small packages!
NICE TEST! I am surprised at the 2-ohm wattage. I am working with a Fosi Audio BT 20A Pro (the one you tested). It hated 48v (8-amp booster installed) with a 4-ohm load. It went into shut down mode when things started to get "fun". So, I swapped it with a 36v (10-amp) booster and it hasn't gone into "shut down" mode and makes good power. Hmm. Overall, I like the BT 20A Pro for my portable speaker builds. It really has great sound and BT connectivity vs Douk and Nobsounds. This Fosi V3 Mono is def interesting too. 48v (10-amp) AC/DC adapters cost about as much as the amplifiers themselves if you can find one that isn't junk. Thank you for doing tests on these mini digital chip amps. What you do is AWESOME!
@@ChrisDIYerOklahoma Hey Chris. I enjoy your builds. I use the BT20A Pro in my ammo can builds. I run it off a DIY 48v lithium pack that I only charge to about 48.9v. I remove the amp from its case and solder the power and speaker leads directly to the board. I replace the Fosi heat sink with the one Texas Instruments specs. Just search for TPA3255 heat sink. It’s a lot beefier. I run these builds at full volume on huge bike rides in Houston. Don’t ask, it’s a Houston thing. Lol. The amp never shuts down due to thermal overload. My current build is running 6.5 Deaf Bonce woofers and 4” Pioneer Pro Tweets. This thing is ridiculous.
Amazing , so small and a lot of power. I have Sony home receiver from late 80s , 120wrms at 8ohms and 235wrms at 4ohms , and it would take about 50 or more of the Fosi amps to equal its size , unbelievable . It would be interesting to see how Fosi amp would sound next to a large home receiver with comparable output. As usual thanks for another great video. Keep up the good work.
Just check the ASR review.. The V3 mono beat a lot of amplifier in sound quality.
@@SilmarilS79 ASR doesn't listen to amps do they? Just measures them.
These amps are crazy how good they sound for there size
@@geevee1045 The reviews that listen to amps concur the results..
@@SilmarilS79 they are charging $1750 for the pair. you can get way better integrated amp or stereo reciever for that money. who cares how small it is? is that what you tell your girlfriend too, the smaller the better?
Not my thing but still a basshead at heart and my way to support a like and a comment at the very least ❤
I've noticed some tech reviewers are testing the class D amps with white noise? or multi-tones all at once, to simulate more complex music signals. Rather than just 1 constant test signal at 1khz. The results indicate that amps like the WiiM amp they measured, were great at 1khz but lost 30% of their power or more, when tested with multi-tones. This should give a better idea of how amps perform with complex signals that are more similar to music. I believe it was Erin's Audio Corner and Scientific Audiophile that discovered the WiiM amp was having problems maintaining power output with multi-tone signals. Any chance you might try multi-tone measurements, so we can get a better idea of what the amp's capable of with more demanding simulated music signals? Thanks. If not, you're still doing us a great service with your amp measurements, and it's much appreciated.
While I agree that more rigorous testing is always a good idea, please be aware that White Noise in no way simulates a musical signal. In fact it is a torture signal we use to see what it takes to kill an amplifier.
White Noise is random frequencies all at full power. Music doesn't even get close to that level of stress. The same for "multitone" tests... fixed frequencies at full power.
Typically music decreases in level with frequency being most powerful at bass frequencies, tapering down to a mere fraction at 8khz (See the Fletcher-Munson "Equal Loudness" curves).. Also be aware that the highest note on the musical scale (C8) is only at 4189hz. Above that all content is harmonic, existing mostly as low level bursts of sound. There is almost no content over about 12000hz.
So a music simulation would be a frequency limited random level test that is EQed down a curved slope to 0 at 12000hz. I've yet to see any of these so called scientific reviewers using anything even remotely like that.
If you don't believe me... get some spectrum analyser software for your phone or PC and look at the display while music plays...
Also note that SA's own reference amplifier failed his white noise test, going into protection after a couple of hours where the V3M got blistering hot but kept on playing. His mission to make these mini-amps look bad isn't working out very well for him.
that's what the 40hz test tone is for
it will load an amp down much more then 1khz
@@NightshiftCustom
Yes it will ... but mostly it's a test to see if the power supply can keep up.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 I wonder if a more realistic torture test would be to send a signal that resembles white noise up to 4khz, and resembles pink noise above 4kHz.
No, I don't know what you'd call this.
@@JoelHernandez-tz3vk
There are specifications for White and Pink noise. The pink noise is designed to closely mimic music and does follow the normal musical decay with frequency.
Another member of the End Of Video Crew here!
End of video as always! Still luvin' my Fosi BT20A pro, which is hooked to this computer, a couple of Minimus 7 speakers and a small(ish) Velodyne sub. Really pleased with the Fosi quality and sound. Need to hook up my Fosi DAC soon, too.. Keep on keepin' on! Stu
I really like my BT 20 A too
Thanks for the review. Fosi used to make a 200 watt bluetooth amp (1002t) and a 2.1 200 watt amp. I was using them in Bluetooth speaker (boombox) builds. The sound quality and ability to power the speakers were incredible. Unfortunately Fosi change the greeting tone to an Asian lady voice saying "Bluetooth mode". I wish Fosi went back to making those amps. The current ones(clones) on E-Bay (not Fosi) are hit and miss with sound quality and feedback noise when no music is playing. Big D, please consider review the Djanguo amps, especially the S350HS.
Wow wow wow. 370 watts! Excellent for the money. Thanks for the great vids
Thanks for watching and commenting!
End of the video Crew!! Love the content!! Have for a long time! Thank You!!
Tpa 3255 allows 20-25 watts (clean) with a distortion of less than 0.1% even at 20 kHz at 4 Hom and 8 Hom.
The power is bigger but if you want a good hi-fi it is about 25 watts because beyond it gets dirty like all class D.
I love these, I'm thinking about building my own Hi Res Sound quality car amp rack build out of this Fosi stuff.. Using a 50 amp 12 volt Dc variable step up transformer to 36 volts constant current with power filters on the outputs for power, With proper fusing of coarse.. Running off of a DSP.. I bet it would sound out of this world, Lol. And fairly affordable as well.
It has 3x 2 channel Ti NE5532 opamps. 1) I-V conversion. 2) LPF. 3) Buffer (for output).
Post Filter Feedback Tech (PFFT) would likely be negative feedback taken from after the second opamp.
PFFB takes the signal from the speaker connectors and feeds it back to the pre-amplifier stage.
@8:35 - I can certainly appreciate the gold-plated chip sockets visible. I think people like to change op-amps for various reasons.
Been waiting on this review! 🤗
Awesome you have come a long way. I have been here for the whole journey (unfortunately not all on one account) just watched you video on your career on 1320 keep doing you I wish I could afford to come meet you and or get some merch I have been delt some bad card between the hurricane at 8 in of water in my house then i got hit by a car on my ebike lost job and now struggling to get back on track but your video's keep me positive
First efficiency calculation I have seen on this one. Have you thought about measuring efficiency in lower volume settings? This would be very interesting.
40Hz test please. I have a velodyne home sub with a bad amp and want to see if this would be a suitable replacement and the amp is no longer in production.
don't you need something with a crossover? might want to look at a plate amp or something like dayton audio sa230. because these would push even less watts using as a bass amp
@XX-121 home theater receivers have a built-in adjustable crossover with level (gain) control. It's not necessary to have a crossover within the amplifier architecture, itself. Also, having double processing (which is unnecessary) only allows for more component failure and introduction of noise thru redundant circuitry.
@@anthonycook8737 so your telling me your velodyne sub came with no crossover on it?
Great vid as always, just want to point out measuring amps on the ac input of power bricks might not give correct results if the brick does not have active PFC. This is easy to check for power factor or comparing the VA and watts readings on the kill-a-watt meter under load. If it's wildly different, it means it doesn't have APFC and the watts reading should be used.
Great point. I should’ve used the AMM-1 as it would’ve calculated power factor
End of the video crew! Would love to see what a valve/tube amp would do on the dynamic test
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Seems a 30A power supply and wowzah, could they rock?!
So good to see manufacturers listen. This day and age it feels like we are destined to garbage. Not anymore!
Dammit, Big D, not only do you have the power switch on the amp dyno oriented in the classic UK style, you just have to trigger me again with swapping the red/black wires at the 2:20 mark. You sir, are a caution! ;-)
🤣👍
Great product no complaints here reminds me of the RF cheater amps back in the 90s
Hi Big D, i've been seeing tones of full albums & music on youtube with NO copy write issues any more..Just look up any artist
Lets see more home amp tests ":)
End of the video crew!!! Big D and Fosi ftw!
it kicked OC protection and didn't make rated power. how was that a win?
Pretty awesome big D. 👍😎 I was hoping for a 40hz signal test.
Not really sub amps, so this test wouldn't be a fair fight with those that are.
@@jamesplotkin4674 an amp's and amp. it would be a fair fight, it should make it's rated power regardless. but this can't even do that with a measly 1khz signal. so yeah, over rated like most class d. you look in the spec sheets of these things and they tell you it'll give you X watts @10%thd and no one will ever run 10% in the real world. 1% already sounds like shht as it is.
Took me a second to remember you do fahrenthingie. Was afraid for your hand for a second 🤣
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I would like to see them put the little notches. The clicks in the knobs on them. At the very least, a center detent position, and that's 7 ban EQ they Should extend that to a ten or a twelve band.
always hangin till the end...
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Hey, point your FLIR at the power cables for that setup!! I bet those barrel plugs are a significant source of loss, perhaps even shutting down the amps.
Pretty sure it's the PSU that is maxed out. Since they don't shut down used one at a time and with more power. So the barrel connector is not at fault here.. I do think it's a good idea to change the power cable between the PSU and the amp, removing connectors in the path.
I cant stand those coaxial connectors. They are probably fine but Im alays fixing whats not broken.. Removed mine and soldered about 6" of fine stranded silicone insulated #14 copper with a xt60 connector directly to the PCB. XT60s are my standard connector for my "low current" lipo/lion batteries/DC power supplies. Anything above 1kw I switch to XT90s, above 3500kw are XT50s.
End of the video is where it's at 👍.
9:23 I saw Telarc Records on the CD, and thought you were gonna play their famous recording of the 1812 Overture with the speaker killing cannons LOL
Thanks for the testing. Much appreciated. 👍 This has confirmed my choice of ordering a pair a few weeks back but with separate 48/5A supplies. Perhaps I should have opted for 2 x 48/10A supplies? Regardless, I'm looking forward to adding them to my system to allow me the time to overhaul my Hafler XL600, which I've been running from new many many many years ago. I'm really curious to see how these modern Class D amps stack up against my Hafler.
I think with music two of the 5A supplies would be more than enough and the included “pseudo” 10A power supply would be sufficient as well. The load tests I do are much harder on the amp and power supplies than music
Can you test them with Pink Noise, how they behave/ I bet it wont power that high.
A test of the relatively new FX-AUDIO-L07 stereo audio amplifier would be nice!
Greetings
Nice Video
As much as I do love the two-channel amplifier that I bought from them I've made eight separate contacts through email because they don't have a direct line to obtain a remote replacement with no success so the factory support after the fact I can't say is good
Thanks for the feedback!
Perhaps made a Audio CD-R with the free to use music test tracks, it would be great to see & hear the Sony XA7ES in action.
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i have an earlier version, more powefull than my classic sony TA FB940R which iv had since 1995, ish, and still use. the sound quality from my old sony blows the little class D amp away. No match for my big heavy, red hot mid budget amp of its day, sound quality in mids ,clarity, trebble and depth are miles apart. the little Fosi is great for partys and drum n bass stuff, but for music, ill keep me sony
thank you. someone with some sense. these fools gonna drop $1750 on a pair of these "chip amps". that can't even make rated power. and gonna have them hooked up to some 8 ohm house speakers.
@XX-121 $1750? 2 of these v3 monos is about $220USD with power supply. Putting out 100w per/ch at 8ohm 1% THD seems pretty good for most people's requirements 🤷♂️
I love fosi stuff
Wowzers!!!
How much ($) are the power supplies?
Very cool amps. What preamp would u use with them & do you think u need 2 power supplies if u are using something like the kappa 70 dali consept 8/10
Nice little amps. Seeing that they're providing an XLR input option, I wonder if they'll start providing Speakon connectors for speaker output? 🙂
If you're going to do home audio, do the Dayton Audio HTA -200. I just bought one, love to see it on the dyno.
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WTF is that 2ohm power? definitely worth staying til the end. sick video too
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The TPA3255 chip is rated for 480w at 1%. It seems the only reason this is listed at 300w is because of the power supply
What is the power rating for .77-1.0mv input? Most homeowners equipment doesn't output 2.1mv.
Speaker wires backwards install.
End of video crew, 2 amps needed 2 power supplies, or one that has more power so we can have more cow bells.
Can we please get a review/Dyno of the new DS18 amplifier's? I really want to see the 3500W
Great video! I was just looking into them last night as they sent me an email to the Kickstarter link. I bought the OG V3 to run a pair of rear height speakers off my Denon X3800, as I have 9 running off the internal amps with 2 more channels available for processing. I'm considering 3 of these for front LCR as my speakers can handle much more than they're getting. What I'm wondering now is if it would be better to get the 48v/5a power supply they offer for each instead of sharing a 48v/10a on 2. Thanks for the video though!
The entire concept of a monoblock is that it should be a fully isolated amplifier. Separate electronics, separate power supplies, separate signal paths. When you start Y connecting them, you re-introduce differing load effects on the power supply and all the noise and crosstalk that implies.
Having studied the TPA3255 chip pretty thoroughly I would advise that your best bet with an amplifier in a closed casing (even if the case is the heat sink) is to use dual 36 volt 5 or 6 amp power bricks with them. They will run cooler, they won't trip into overcurrent or protection and you're only losing about 2db of output, which would be barely noticeable.
Always watch to the end!!
end of the video crew :)
What box is getting that savard???? Woofer flex looks impressive!!!
I forget, how do the sine waves go?
Interesting these smaller amps!
not really. doesn't make rated power (as usual) and plus most people are going to use these inside @8ohms ...maybe 6?
now if it actually made 300 usable watts, full bandwidth, less than1% distortion at 8 ohms, then it would have been slightly interesting. oh and plus it was kicking the overcurrent protection and shutting off. i'd consider that a fail. so really it was only good for the 8 ohm rating anyway. unless you want to buy another one of those power supplies. prob adds another $75. but you don't really need it anyway because no house speakers are 4 ohms.
Do you know of any house amplifiers capable of powering custom speaker enclosures that is more than 150w per channel? Low impedance is a plus. All I could find that wasn't in the thousands of dollars was a Pyle.....it said 2 ohm. I hooked up the 2.5 ohm speaker enclosures and it sounded great for 2 songs then it released the factory smoke. Lol
Thanks for another detailed reviews. Without your review of this mono block amp, I wouldn't realize about the existence of this amazing amp. Actually I'm in the market looking for a pair of mono block amps. Wondering if it is possible to have a detail review of the newest release of Aiyima a70 mono. Just wanna to compare with the V3 mono, then make a decision, thanks a lot !!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Cmon man, get a better thermal cam.
I got an HT-301 and very happy with it.
WAL - can you please verify that the XLR balanced inputs are in fact "balanced inputs" ? and not just the same as the RCA in it accepts ?
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Very good, I’d really like to hear them in person. I’ve got a Sony cdp 101 with remote if anyone wants it
13:10 Yes, that would be nice.
Any reason not to use this as a budget home theater sub amp?
You would need a 12,5A ps to get the most out of a 2 amp setup.
Do a amp dyno test with the amplifier ca20 Philippines
would anyone believe me if i say i run a Fosi Audio BT20A-PRO on 2 18subs and 2 15 for mids from electrovoice? already for a year now... and yes fosi does a great job of quality. the only limitation of this amps is the supply really. Once v3 mono is available i might switch to 2 of those...if i can get the supply and yes the ideea of vu meters on the front of the mono would be great.
With 100dB efficient driver, you will have enough power with a 100w amp.
For mono amps, can you run tests with 40hz or less test signal? It would be interesting to see how power is effected?
tpa3255在长时间满载时，温度会特别高，我不知道设计师在设计的时候有没有考虑长时间满载，然后他还有个有意思的地方，就是输出就一根引脚，虽然说比较短这个问题不大，但是几十瓦w的tpa3116输出也是一根😂😂😂
Not sure why I can’t order two of the V3 I go to the site where it sends me. And there is no place to order from. I am talking about the monoblock amps
Here is a link to 2 of the V3 mono amps plus the same power supply I showed. Remember, this is a pre-order and these won't ship until around June - www.kickstarter.com/projects/fosiaudio/fosi-audio-v3-mono-power-amplifier/rewards#reward-UmV3YXJkLVVtVjNZWEprTFRrNE9EQTJORGs9
@@wal thank you you are the best. I’ve been wanting to do a set of mono blocks and just never did it.
Derek I'm confused about the sub just sitting free air. Is that driver meant to not need an enclosure?
Why are these not recommended for a subwoofer?
Do you think a old Rockford fosgate punch 1200w 2 channel amplifier is worth 30$ ?? 401S-model
EOTVC for life 😆
I think these would be great to set up a 7.1.4 Atmos home theatre. One V3 mono per speaker, so 11 amps. You will get great power & still be much cheaper than using stereo or a home theatre amps. So maybe $1500 all up for amps. A Sparky to install some power sockets.
👎 just get a receiver and plug it in. you won't need an electrician and won't look like a goober with a bunch of those things and a stack of brick sized power supplies :smh:
@@XX-121 A receiver with 11ch of amplification would only have 40-50 clean watts of power. Using these will give so, so much better sound & dynamics, which is exactly what you want for home theatre use. You will get better sound separation of the channels. Are you the guy that uses head unit for your front speakers?? Cause they state they have 50w x 4 power??
@@purplehazeffc are you the goober that has 11 chinese chip amps in his living room?
@@XX-121 No I'm not, hence why I mentioned that these would be something to think about. To get this amount of power & dynamics for a home theatre set up, would cost $10,000 plus. Hence why these would make a good budget option for just over $1200. And please don't mention using a receiver's built in amps. Nothing will come close .
@@purplehazeffc you're delusional. besides most house speakers are 8 ohms so they're not gonna be pushing much over 100w and that's at 1khz. just like the rest of these chip amp they're gonna push even less when driven hard. and you would need new power supplies for them if you gonna be pushing lower ohm loads anyway because they only ship with 5A ones.
That particular CD player has a weird pin out for XLR which I’ve seen on some older pro audio amplifiers pin three is positive and and pin 2 is negative
On all newer equipment that I’ve seen pin two is positive pin three is negative just something to keep in mind
Great catch!
That really doesn't matter. All you get is a phase inverted output, no harm done.
That’s why I said just something to keep in mind in my case, I had phase issues because one of my amps pin two was positive. The other pin three was positive
@@matthewnicaud6498
The standard pinout in pro-audio is:
1) Shield
2) Hot ... in phase with input ("Positive")
3) Cold ... inverted pin 2 ("Negative")
The crest audio 4801 pro audio amp I have pin 3 is positive
These look great can they run some monitors?
yes
Can you test if the power is limited by the power supply? Do you need 10A@48v for each amp or only for both?
He is doing resistive test. Which put a way bigger load on the PSU than music, which is transient. I doubt people would really max the 5amp/amp setup. And it you really need 300w+ of power, these might not be the product for you.
Unless you are hell bent on bursting your eardrums most of your listening probably happens at less than 5 watts with occasional peaks to 20 or 30 watts. So, for most people the 32 volt 5 amp supply will be just fine. If you are a bit nuts and want "concert hall" levels in your living room I would recommend, a pair of 36 volt 5 amp supplies.
The problem with the 48 volt supplies is heat... a fully enclosed case like these mini-amps use will get blistering hot inside on 48 volts.
These amps come to life if you hook them up to lithium battery power i mean come to life!
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Gonna get these