Yup. P.much the only way to kill one is to neglect socket resets and shatter a piston from excessive play between piston and rod, or by using too short of a bolt to hold the prop on and shearing the crank off right at the drive washer. And thanks to Cox International even these failures aren't the end of the engine!
Remember - there is ALWAYS a good reason to make such a video even if you don't have one personally - there are plenty of others outside (myself included) who APPRECIATE and learn something new from such videos. So keep posting your engine videos no-matter what :)
Hi i I got a bunch of old cox engines of a friend of mine they had all seen better days i’m more of a diesel guy and I had never messed around with Glow engines. Your video really helped me restore them thank you David
l have been flying model aircraft for 60 years l am 74 now and l still wear the scares on my hands from 049s they were nasty little buggers and those nylon props would get you L O L
Criminy! 12,000 rpm! Those things scared me as a kid, but I may drag out my old .049s from childhood for a run. I think i g ave an un-run .020 as well. Thanks for the memories and inspiration!
I had a buggy with a COX 0.049 engine when I was a kid. Cox made a recoil pull starter that I added to the engine, eliminating the need to wrap a string around the output driveshaft/worm gear/cooling fan/starter sheave. I also added a larger aluminum heatsink onto the cylinder. The engine had a little spring-steel cylinder that acted as a throttle by covering up part of the exhaust port. It had a little zig-zag wire attached to the cylinder with detents allowing the engine speed to be controlled. I was always amazed at how slow the engine would run. One thing I remember, in particular, was how the 6 VDC glow plugs didn't last very long at all.
This is great. A real feelgood vibe about getting this going. For a real vintage Cox like this one could imagine one of those long nosed low wing free flight jobs, with a profile pilot figure (helpful vertical stab) in comedic style.. Nice bright colours for the plane. Perhaps a flying scarf for the pilot, moustaches also a must.. Spoked wheels? Wheel spats? Nice one! 🌟👍
That engine came from a Cox P-40 airplane! Rather rare cylinder as it is marked P-40! That’s a keeper I have hundreds of cylinders but only 1 marked P-40 !
This was in a very poor state!! But it runs very nice!! Great job.You could go further and polish the carter,use heat proof black paint for the liner..but they come very cheap on ebay in a good shape,so its just nice to get a chunk of old rusty iron back to running condition...and you did !! ;-) Well done David!
The 3 blade prop and the p40 marking is a dead giveaway to me that it came on a Cox P-40 Warhawk when new. Looks just like the engine that came on my old P-40. Great work on the cleanup.
They put them on a couple, but I think they had pusher props on them. The cylinders were blued from the factory. The old Baby Bees used to have the "Thimble Drome" marking on them, which goes back to Leroy Cox early days with tether cars where he started out. Is the little rubber "donut" o-ring on the intake inside the tank? These are usually deteriorated and should be replaced on a rebuild. They tend to leak otherwise and cause you all manner of headaches. Good job!
It might only be a simple little engine but watching it being cleaned, restored & then running again brings joy to my heart. Well done David & thank you.
I have that exact engine on a Cox P40 Warhawk plane made in 1960 that still fired up last time I ran it (about 30+ years ago!) what are you using for fuel? Cox glow fuel has no been available since around 1990!
Honestly I don't recall what fuel I used. Obviously is was just some standard glow fuel. I know I didn't buy anything specific for this engine. Look at my 1/2A playlist I am sure that I mention the fuel I used on one of them.
I still got a 1960s .020 in it's blister packing NOS wonder what it's $ value is ?.It was my Dad's a "tumble drone" on the coloured advertising I think. He would never let me open it out of it's blister pack but he bought it pre '67 .I've got a few baby bees like you are restoring but these don't need it - they are all never been run over 1 hour combined ,got a golden bee too.ahhh such happy memories PS don't forget to close up that ball-joint connecting the conrod & piston.Trev New Zealand
hello, I have a few of these and they are in working condition. but I do not know what fuel they take. is it oil, gas or mix of both? can someone please help me out. thanks
A mixture of methanol, nitromethane, and castor oil was what came in the Cox glow fuel I used in the 1970's. From Wikipedia: The fuel used to power the engine is called Model Engine Fuel, a mixture of methanol (70-40%), castor oil (20%) and nitromethane (10-40%).
It's a reed valve engine, the venturi intake is on the backplate. Baby Bees have a single cylinder transfer port, others like the Black WIdow have two.
Like all 2 stroke engines do: Carvings in the lower part of the inner wall of the cylinder. Actually in these small engines these ports are even hard to see.
I had a cox red baron control line and flew it off of a piece of plywood in the back yard had to sling it a little bit to get it up and that cox engine ran like a sewing machine
I am still at the beginning of this video - and I do have a question: CLR products ( from what I know ) remove calcium deposits from shower heads and other related items that are constantly exposed to water ... but not sure if CLR is meant to remove rust .. let's see how the video progresses ..
@@dmrcflyr2 Ohhh perfect then .. would you rather immerse the whole engine in CLR for a few mins (or however long you tell me it's appropriate ) and then use a hard toothbrush to "scrub" the engine ?
Oh HECK no!! ONLY steel parts should should be in contact with CLR. Do NOT immerse AL into it. I do not use it unless the engine is completely disassembled and steel parts can be isolated and soaked in it.
After removing the steel parts from the CLR they need to be rinsed well with water and immediately oiled and kept oiled. Otherwise surface rust will begin right before your eyes.
It will run guaranteed. Original Cox engines are nearly indestructible
Yup. P.much the only way to kill one is to neglect socket resets and shatter a piston from excessive play between piston and rod, or by using too short of a bolt to hold the prop on and shearing the crank off right at the drive washer.
And thanks to Cox International even these failures aren't the end of the engine!
Remember - there is ALWAYS a good reason to make such a video even if you don't have one personally - there are plenty of others outside (myself included) who APPRECIATE and learn something new from such videos. So keep posting your engine videos no-matter what :)
Hi i I got a bunch of old cox engines of a friend of mine they had all seen better days i’m more of a diesel guy and I had never messed around with Glow engines. Your video really helped me restore them thank you David
This brings back so many memories-as i had several Cox Products-Planes and Cars!
l have been flying model aircraft for 60 years l am 74 now and l still wear the scares on my hands from 049s they were nasty little buggers and those nylon props would get you L O L
No risk, no fun.
Criminy! 12,000 rpm! Those things scared me as a kid, but I may drag out my old .049s from childhood for a run. I think i g ave an un-run .020 as well. Thanks for the memories and inspiration!
love these I've restored a bunch they are indestructible I polish the block and tank ,great video.
I had a buggy with a COX 0.049 engine when I was a kid. Cox made a recoil pull starter that I added to the engine, eliminating the need to wrap a string around the output driveshaft/worm gear/cooling fan/starter sheave. I also added a larger aluminum heatsink onto the cylinder. The engine had a little spring-steel cylinder that acted as a throttle by covering up part of the exhaust port. It had a little zig-zag wire attached to the cylinder with detents allowing the engine speed to be controlled. I was always amazed at how slow the engine would run. One thing I remember, in particular, was how the 6 VDC glow plugs didn't last very long at all.
I didn't know they had 6 volt glow plugs, I always used a 1.5 volt battery that was about 1-1/2 inches diameter and about 6 inches tall.
This is great. A real feelgood vibe about getting this going. For a real vintage Cox like this one could imagine one of those long nosed low wing free flight jobs, with a profile pilot figure (helpful vertical stab) in comedic style.. Nice bright colours for the plane. Perhaps a flying scarf for the pilot, moustaches also a must.. Spoked wheels? Wheel spats? Nice one! 🌟👍
That engine came from a Cox P-40 airplane! Rather rare cylinder as it is marked P-40! That’s a keeper I have hundreds of cylinders but only 1 marked P-40 !
The P-40 came with an .049, not the .020.
Great video. That should give anyone some incentive to at least try to repair an old engine rather than throw it away. Great job is always David
Best ive ever seen a cox engine running...welldone..
This was in a very poor state!! But it runs very nice!! Great job.You could go further and polish the carter,use heat proof black paint for the liner..but they come very cheap on ebay in a good shape,so its just nice to get a chunk of old rusty iron back to running condition...and you did !! ;-) Well done David!
And it will live to tell some more stories!!!well done!!!
Thank you Capt. Blaz!
@@dmrcflyr2 how to refill the fuel ? By turning out the tiny adjusting screw?
The 3 blade prop and the p40 marking is a dead giveaway to me that it came on a Cox P-40 Warhawk when new. Looks just like the engine that came on my old P-40. Great work on the cleanup.
Oh, very good information. I thought it might have been on a tether car.
They put them on a couple, but I think they had pusher props on them.
The cylinders were blued from the factory. The old Baby Bees used to have the "Thimble Drome" marking on them, which goes back to Leroy Cox early days with tether cars where he started out.
Is the little rubber "donut" o-ring on the intake inside the tank? These are usually deteriorated and should be replaced on a rebuild. They tend to leak otherwise and cause you all manner of headaches.
Good job!
The venturi gasket is what I meant.
It might only be a simple little engine but watching it being cleaned, restored & then running again brings joy to my heart. Well done David & thank you.
Yes there was one but I did not replace it yet.
Just found one of these in a shed in worse condition that that. Gonna give the restoration a shot
Very good video and excellent work on the engine.
nice you brought it back from the dead
Impressive work!
I have that exact engine on a Cox P40 Warhawk plane made in 1960 that still fired up last time I ran it (about 30+ years ago!) what are you using for fuel? Cox glow fuel has no been available since around 1990!
Honestly I don't recall what fuel I used. Obviously is was just some standard glow fuel. I know I didn't buy anything specific for this engine. Look at my 1/2A playlist I am sure that I mention the fuel I used on one of them.
Any two stroke can be saved. I’ve restored and flown much worst.
COX engine is never die
I still got a 1960s .020 in it's blister packing NOS wonder what it's $ value is ?.It was my Dad's a "tumble drone" on the coloured advertising I think. He would never let me open it out of it's blister pack but he bought it pre '67 .I've got a few baby bees like you are restoring but these don't need it - they are all never been run over 1 hour combined ,got a golden bee too.ahhh such happy memories PS don't forget to close up that ball-joint connecting the conrod & piston.Trev New Zealand
Brass brush from Harbor Freight would work great on clean up!!
Did that little engine really just fire up on second flick?? Fantastic. 🙂
The first time I ran it, it did. It was warm on this run on video and took a few more flips, but less than 10.
It runs. Uncredible.
hello, I have a few of these and they are in working condition. but I do not know what fuel they take. is it oil, gas or mix of both? can someone please help me out.
thanks
A mixture of methanol, nitromethane, and castor oil was what came in the Cox glow fuel I used in the 1970's. From Wikipedia: The fuel used to power the engine is called Model Engine Fuel, a mixture of methanol (70-40%), castor oil (20%) and nitromethane (10-40%).
Another resurrection. Great Job.
Mid to late 1960s Babe Bee
049.
Awesome
what voltage is the glow plug
how do cox engines get the fuel from the crankcase to the cylinder head? I couldnt see any transfer ports
It's a reed valve engine, the venturi intake is on the backplate. Baby Bees have a single cylinder transfer port, others like the Black WIdow have two.
Like all 2 stroke engines do: Carvings in the lower part of the inner wall of the cylinder. Actually in these small engines these ports are even hard to see.
I had a cox red baron control line and flew it off of a piece of plywood in the back yard had to sling it a little bit to get it up and that cox engine ran like a sewing machine
Was that prop broken or just bent to the point of being unusable? I couldn't tell.
It was just old and had permanent bends in it. I did not want to risk it flying apart on me.
Good decision. Props that size are cheap. Potentially serious injuries are not.
A more recent version had smaller ports.
I really enjoyed seeing this little fella resuscitated back to life.
It may not look pretty anymore but it seems to run pretty well.
I'd say that it is beautiful.
good old days first run for my cox ,on my control line spitfire,,i was 13 years old,truly these engines are in history of model planes.
I have one that revs quite a lot
Love it
When i was a kid at 70s, it was very pround to show people that i was using model engine, Not battery and motor----------- higher class!! Ho ~Ho~
I am still at the beginning of this video - and I do have a question: CLR products ( from what I know ) remove calcium deposits from shower heads and other related items that are constantly exposed to water ... but not sure if CLR is meant to remove rust .. let's see how the video progresses ..
CLR = Calcium, Lime, Rust. Yes it is what I use to remove rust from engine parts.
@@dmrcflyr2 Ohhh perfect then .. would you rather immerse the whole engine in CLR for a few mins (or however long you tell me it's appropriate ) and then use a hard toothbrush to "scrub" the engine ?
Oh HECK no!! ONLY steel parts should should be in contact with CLR. Do NOT immerse AL into it. I do not use it unless the engine is completely disassembled and steel parts can be isolated and soaked in it.
@@dmrcflyr2 THANK YOU for the clarification !
After removing the steel parts from the CLR they need to be rinsed well with water and immediately oiled and kept oiled. Otherwise surface rust will begin right before your eyes.
That Engine is from a p40 1959
I love cox.... The engines I mean
Spray with wd40 and heat up with blow dryer. It will release
Marvel Mystery Oil
Out of an old p40 warhawk r.t.f. model
It is a superBee