993’s seem to be the holy grail now, other than a 2.7 RS, as last of the air-cooled. Don’t know about in the US, but prices here in the UK have rocketed. A work colleague of mine in the early 2000’s had one those in exactly the same blue colour.
I used to do tons of those on VW Golfs in Germany. Also it’s a lot of fun when you have the CV joint rebuilt and put on the shaft and realize the cv boot is still in the box. 😬😳
I’m late to the comment section, but 6:33 “We’ll check the pads. I really don’t need to cuz they’re brand new, but we’ll check.” Brand new, excellent shape without a shadow of a doubt, but he checked them anyway. That’s the level of expertise and attention to detail I strive to have myself. ✊
I ran a D.W. warehouse for Heating/Cooling, C.V. shafts, Rack & Pinions. Technically they are called "Half Shafts" and you can send them off to Powerline in Robuck,S.C. to have them rebuilt ( as long as the cages aren't broke) last set of Porsche 911 half-shafts I sent off were $129.95 each- My price- Let alone $3,000.00 for a set.
@@danielscott6787 My take on the "ship out for a rebuild"....When I helped build "off road" buggy's" with 930 hardware....We marked CV assemblies...inner/outer and LH/RH to make sure they went back in the way they were installed for new...same for the axles they went back the same way they came out...The metal takes a "set" from all the forces and you don't want to mix things up...I'm pretty sure these rebuild shops aren't taking the same precautions....Might be fine for a non HP application but, 930 Turbo? I'm putting them in the way the were stressed to prevent failure!
back in 1990 replaced a Porsche CV Joint that was clicking. It was about $65 or $130 (not sure now). that was for a 944 Turbo. Easy to change, the Axle shaft had a VW-Audi stamp on it..........so today say $500 parts (4 CV joints) and labor, that seems within reason
I rebuilt several shafts in the old days. From my recollection, it was Toyota that started the idea of not selling rebuild kits and only selling complete shafts when the boots died. I remember getting in an 81 AMC Eagle and 81 Toyota Camry with torn boots. With the AMC it was $14 for boot kits for both front axles. No one made boot kits for the Toyota and we had to replace both shafts at $225 for both sides, The owner of the Toyota was not a happy camper. He called Toyota and they told him they had seen too much problems with people replacing the boots improperly and then having the CV joints fail completely. This was probably due to fact that too many shade tree mechanics not taking the time to properly evaluate the joints, clean them, and grease them properly before installing the boots.
He's a good mechanic and good man, we may not agree on everything but what friends do? I may or may not have lashed out in the past, but, I didn't actually hear the words from his lips, just hearsay. Forgive me Wizard.
When I started in the dealership in the early '70's, we almost never replaced axle assemblies unless damaged in an accident or some other unusual circumstance. With inexpensive axle assemblies manufactured in low cost countries, it doesn't make much sense to rebuild axle shafts, though, in my opinion many of these assemblies are of so-so quality and the original equipment joints often are longer lasting. On my own vehicle, I replaced my joints with original German made joints. But, it's hard to argue when World Pack will see complete axle assembles for $45-70 each for many vehicles.
@TableRocked Can confirm that the cheap aftermarket shafts for, say, a MkIV VW are a FAR cry from OEM original. Aftermarket axles are cheap for a reason. If you take the original and set it next to a Chinese-made replacement, the differences in quality are immediately visible, even without taking the boots off. Factory VW CV joints tend to last as long as the boots stay intact (as long as the suspension geometry hasn't been wildly altered, and you haven't massively increased engine power output). I have an '02 TDI that racked up close to 300k miles on it, and the CV joints were perfectly fine... unfortunately the boots were so brittle, I managed to split them open while I was replacing the clutch. Based on prior experience, I knew I wanted OE-quality shafts, but at $400+ a side from VW, that wasn't really an option. Luckily an outfit in Florida ("Raxles") rebuilds and sells OEM shafts for a lot cheaper than new, and so far I've been extremely pleased with the result. And after the core refund, still very reasonably priced. However, they *only accept OEM axles* as cores... again because the aftermarket crap is just that: crap. And the previous experience I mentioned? That was several years ago, when I purchased a 1.8T Jetta wagon, which, after purchasing, I realized had a split CV boot. A local shop ended up putting aftermarket axles on it (because I knew no better), and at least one side only lasted about 20k miles before it started clunking. I can't say much about aftermarket options for other makes. So it may not be a universal truth across everything. But I would avoid aftermarket axles like the plague for any VAG product, absolutely.
@@dphoenix1 Just working in a bicycle shop for a summer, we had to routinely replace the ball bearings in everything from overseas as part of the assembly process. We didn't even tell the customer. The originals were simply defective and made out of obviously recycled steel. We had so many warranty issues that since we had to pack and assemble the bearings as part of the process, we just had a couple of bins with several thousand of the two main sizes. Toss the originals, put the new ones in. Just to save ourselves the extra work and headaches. And that was for bicycles. It's even worse for vehicles. $40 barely covers the cost of properly made bearings of that size.
As dphonenix has stated, the quality of OEM CV joints/stub axle assemblies is usually superior to the inexpensive axle assemblies sold by most parts operators. A GKN/Lobro CV joint part by itself will usually sell for more than the entire axle assembly from an after market company. And that's before you even add for the CV boot kit and the labor to replace the joint. In some cases, certain firms will rebuild/refurbish the joint and/or an axle assembly where the parts are no longer available or are extremely expensive. For most people they can't understand why they should spend $300+ for an OEM assembly vs an aftermarket part that I can sell to them for $80-125 for most vehicles. (That includes my margin) The truth is that unless the boot has an ultra small leak of grease, you can't just put a new boot on it with grease and let it go. I take the joint off, clean it and exam it for pitting in the surface of the roller ball or the surface that the ball bearing rides against. Even if just started to leak grease, in my experience, 50% of the time it needs a new joint. This is not to say that all aftermarket parts are of poor quality, especially in the area of brake parts. Cheap rotors can crack or warp, pads wear out fast or separate from the backing plate etc. But, some pads and rotors are of superior quality to OEM parts. You pay your money and make your choice.
The drivers front axel on my daughters Honda Fit broke, a new one was $68.00 and a hour of work. That was last year, this year a recall for the same problem
When I change my oil in my car I always spray the CV boots with silicone spray I've got over 260,000 miles on my 2001 Chevy Cavalier with the original Factory axles
WEEZARD, I appreciate your honesty with your customers. I love my mechanic of years now. Rich Dean, (Porsche builders/Custom Design) in Athens, Ga. He is the most honest mechanic I have ever seen. He has saved me thousands of dollars over the years with my many BMW's and Porsches. You guys are hard to find!! Love ya for your honesty!!! Keep up the GREAT work!
I know what you mean about the parts.I recently replaced the lower suspension arms on my car. One of the bushes on either side was starting to fail so I bought both arms. the cost to me was just under 100 Pounds UK inc delivery. and I made sure I had the parts in my posession before going to my shop to have them fitted. I also means The labour charge was a whole lot less than just replacing the worn bushes and I have a brand new bottom arm swivel joint as well. You give very good and fair advice to your customers. I certainly use you. Many thanks.
Buyer beware - not all "new" CV shafts are created equal. The CV shafts in our H1's require the mating surface of the axle joint where it goes into the hub to be within very tight tolerances. A new CV half shaft from AM General can run upwards of $600. The same CV on Rockauto is listed as... $75. Problem is that during the remanufacturing process, that rebuilt "new" CV from Rockauto was turned down on a machine - and that mating surface is WAY out of spec. When its installed, it'll look like it fits and works just fine. but then you go down the road a couple miles and all of your hub oil will get sprayed out of the input seal, and then it will seize up hard and then you're looking at a brand new $4000 hub assembly.
I heard something about plastic headlamps being "recommended" or "encouraged" in newer cars because they are less likely to injure pedestrians in low-speed impacts but a recent search didn't turn up any regulations to that effect so maybe it's just internet hearsay. I still prefer glass assemblies, myself. As for CV axles, it's kind of tricky to figure out exactly where the noise is coming from to find the exact fault, especially if the boots aren't damaged. Usually if the noise isn't present except under load when turning, it's an outer joint that's failing. If it's clicky while going straight without much change when turning, it's probably an inner joint failing. I have an Italian car with similar CV axles to this Porsche and it too needs some joint service (sounds like there's an air hammer in there, likely an inner joint). Unlike most other cars, these also appear to be designed to be serviced rather than replaced as an assembly, which is nice if you can get the individual parts. I also like not having to drain the transaxle/diff when removing the axles, but such an arrangement can make it difficult to replace the shaft seals. Win some, lose some, I suppose.
I absolutely love the detailed walk-trough both of the car and the considerations regarding re-building vs. replacing. Very interesting, and very entertaining!
Really, really good tip about checking parts availability. Even I just being a guy working on my cars and my friends' cars have learned that lesson the hard way. Working on a rare older car often makes for a struggle finding parts, you expect this, but even more normal cars can run into problems. I was amazed how it was impossible to find a crank pulley holder for a Toyota once in stock anywhere in town. Ended up renting a Mazda/Ford one that could be made to work. I don't start work anymore until I have everything in my hands. Too much heartache and wasted time in the past!
Kudos, Wizard! I don't know of any other shop that would do the proper thing and get their hands dirty to save the customer parts costs. I'm only a lowly bike mechanic, but my mantra is always "rebuild before replacing" if possible. Good on ya! Thanks for tellin' 'em how it's done, Mr. and Mrs. Wizard!✌️❤️🙂🇨🇦
I've done the fronts on a Mercedes W203 C280 4Matic, when the motor mounts die the engine sags and puts the inner CV boots at a bad angle and they will eventual tear. Did the mounts then did the half shafts, I order new/re-maned shafts and kept the originals ones new boots. Nice vid!
At 13:28 ... There is no need to put a car on a lift to inspect the boots. Just turn the steering wheel all the way, switch off the engine and inspect with a mirror and flashlight. A torn booth is always covered with grease. That works fine for almost all (front-wheel drive) cars. For rear-wheel-driven cars, you park them on the curb and crawl under them.
The outer CV boots on my VW golf were torn, I bought a pair of new boots around $15, it was surprisingly easy to disassemble the CV joints and replace the boots, took around 15 minutes each side, all you need is a pair of good snap-ring pliers and a tube of CV grease. Good as new, saved $300!
Absolutely. That Porsche 993.2 is worth ~$75K. He should condition the leather seats or they will crack. The last air cooled Porsche 911 made. Labor rate now for Porsches in L.A. CA is now over $125 an hour. CHEAPSKATES try to buy the parts themself!!! And often the wrong parts. Don't buy aftermarket parts. Sheetmetal, too. Taiwanese body parts are junk.
Wizard , what you explained on the parts availability online is a difference between a site that's live( inventory) or not . The difference is if you place an order on a item if it's out of stock it would tell you instantly vs ordering, then they proceed to tell you it is currently out of stock & you'll get it in 3 weeks
Yea... what the HELL is the deal with parts showing available online, then after you order them, it's "oh sorry, those are out of stock". WELL THEN WHYYYYY ARE THEY ONLINE??
Once you've paid for them and they have the money....you can wait...it doesn't cost them to wait...they can supply..it just won't be quick...they have the use of your money for all of the wait time....because they don't pay until the part is delivered to them...
Reputable suppliers generally don't do this. I buy from FCP Euro and Rockauto (stick to the good brands though). Wizard was on Rockauto.com btw. I have no connection to them.
Beautiful car for sure. A 'squashed beetle' as Jeremy Clarkson jokingly called them. My favorite kind LOL. I had many Porsches and VWs and I've yet to replace an entire shaft. I'll always just replace the CV joints and boots. Buying an entire shaft is crazy as they are really beefy and made to last forever really and lot easier to service than most CV shafts i've seen. Not many shops are willing to rebuild the shafts for you though. Most will replace the entire thing or will not do the job otherwise. Kudos to CW for that. Good video!
Good tip on ordering parts. Made a mistake of ordering a master cylinder from a place, THEN reading reviews on them. Many complaints about not having parts in stock. I contacted them, and yep, same thing. Then took over two weeks to issue the refund.
Good video. Last summer you recommended to replace the CV shafts on whatever you were working on. I had an outside boot on my CS that was slinging a line of grease on the inside of my rear wheel (another way to ID a bad boot), so I was going to take your advice and replace the shaft. Holy crap they wanted $1K for the 1 shaft. I'm like your 993 owner who will do some DIY stuff but I didn't have the tools to rebuild an axle. Contacted my local indy and he would replace the boots for $300. No brainer.
hey wizard... nice video. at 5:16 you comment that on the passenger side of the car behind the lower front grill "you can see the air conditioning condenser". that actually is the oil cooler on the passenger side, the condenser is on the driver's side of the car in a similar position visible looking through the grill. great tour of the underside... no one ever does that. thanks
I commend you for saving your customers money. I think a lot of shops simply take the easy way out of replacing entire axles instead of rebuilding the CV joints. It's less risky for them using all-new parts, and . . . it makes them more money.
I bought the special pliers you need to tighten the clamps on new CV boots back in the mid-90’s. Used it once, and it’s taken up space in my toolbox ever since.
i had a hyundai santa fe, had a torn boot (diesel smell in the cab on a gas engine was the only clue that something was wrong). since it was still under hyundai warranty, they make the dealership rebuild the cv shaft instead of do the 30 minute pull & replace and give the car back to the owner. think that is so stupid when it cost the dealership much more on the labor for the rebuild than to just replace the whole shaft. not the reason i got rid of that car, the seat was killing my back. own a dodge grand caravan now and i love it.
Thanks for another informative video, Wizard. With my wife's previous 2004 VW Passat GLS 4Motion, it was more affordable to replace the entire half shaft. Interesting to know on a 911, however, it is less to rebuild.
$3k is not a lot for a car like this. Imagine what it would cost at the dealer. Porsche dealer costs on my newer Porsches are getting close to the same as my Ferrari 355 if not more. People balk at $10k for a major on a 355 that you do every 5 years, try maintenance on a 991.
Had to get some rust repaired on my S6. I called around to see if anywhere stocked the roof skin with either the sunroof or without. I knew Audi didn't make or stock them but after asking the body shop to dig in, it would be unavailable. It was weird though because some shops would say they could get one or the other initially. Also the passengers side drip rail is still available but the drivers side is not.
You’re a god to me bro. I would love to have the knowledge you guys have and fix my own vehicle. If I ever had the balls to fix my own vehicle I would attack the suspension and handling components. Then engine issues.
Hey Car Wizard. Love your content and have learned a lot already from you. Maybe you could do some videos explaining how cars work? How the engine works and how it connects to the gearbox etc etc. Would be great content and very educational. Keep up the great work! Mrs Wizard does a great job too!
Regarding the CV shafts, I have this conversation about replace/repair all the time with my customers ( I repair diesels, tractors and equipment) In the end, the cost of labor dictates what is disposable. People always complain that its a throw-away world and nothing lasts like it should. But in the end, so long as new parts are available, manufactured in other countries for cheaper than the domestic labor to repair your part, most everything can be considered disposable in one degree or another.
The 1995 model year I think was the last of the hand assembled 911's from Porsche. A fine looking car indeed. Such a distinctive sound also from that era.
If I owned this vehicle, I would hold on to it for as long as possible. This was the last of the good quality reliable vehicles that Porsche produced. New vehicles from Porsche are over complicated with electronics. In many cases, even the official Porsche dealership cannot find and repair a problem with the first visit to that dealership.😂
I know about parts issues. Watching one of your electrical troubleshooting videos, I decided to order through your store at Amazon the power robe tester, it’s running late according to Amazon 😂😂👍, No problem, it’s somewhere on a truck or airplane heading my way. I don’t need it right away but thought it would be a great tool to have in the box. And by the way I purchased those mountain flex head box end wrenches in standard/ metric they are awesome. Put them right to work on my 1977 Buick Regal, had to change the belts on the 350-H motor the one that’s a pain is the power steering belt because the stud/nut assembly on the back side of the pump is right next to the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. It’s always a pain to tighten but with the Flex wrench , a peace of cake 👍👍👍
Had a leaking power steering pump on my 2011 Citroen. £150 for an unknown second hand unit, £250 for a rebuilt unit or £400 for a new one. Pulled the pump apart myself, O ring had shrunk just due to age. Measured up and ordered a new one. Put it all back together, that was 2 years ago, no further leaks. Total cost 2 hours of my time, £10 power steering oil and £7.50 for the O rings. ( I replaced the low pressure side one also, although it wasn't leaking. )
One of the prettiest Porsche’s of all time. Prices are stabilising now. Last air cooled series production Porsche, pre variocam model. Nice. REALLY NICE. I listed after these cars for years. It’s just a good example of a classic design.
As an owner, not a mechanic, I have rebuilt dozens of CVs....VW, Audi, Mercedes, Nissan, Isuzu.....even when the boot was compromised and they literally had mud in them, I've been able to disassemble, clean, inspect, then reassemble, grease and new boots on, all in half a day or less. Some are really easy to get out. Of all of the ones I've done I've only ever had to replace two joints...because the scarring on the ball bearings and cages was too great. That taught me to always look at the boots every time I can and especially after off-road. Some scarring can be okay, when you don't have the funds on hand....put it back together and run it and keep an eye on it. Even the really scarred ones gave me another 5K miles. Anyway, good stuff. I don't think any DIY home mechanic like myself should shy away from rebuilding CVs, they're simple.
We had a customer with a rare MB station wagon with 4wd, and had to change a CV shaft. They wanted over 3 grand for it. so the customer settled for a second hand one, and we put it on his car. The customer was aware that we could not give him any warranty on the part, but we got it replaced and it is still running good, two years later.
You are exactly correct this is a variant of a Volkswagen Beetle. The Volkswagen Beetles were built by Ferdinand Porsche. And all of these rear engine vehicles are variations of that exact car. Tech tip. On those new boots on those half shafts. Take some 303 protectant. Soak those half shaft boots quite liberally and let it soak in. If the owner will spray those with the 303 whenever he does and oil change. The will never care unless they're physically damaged by a foreign object. I doubt that they would ever come apart.
Another great video. Yeap! In some cases, it is cheaper too rebuild than replace. Once again, THANK YOU ALL, at OMGA car clinic for being 💯 honest with your customers
Things like this are why you have to build a good relationship with your mechanic. Finding a good reputable car guy is essential. That's why when I moved I still drove 100 miles to my guy's shop until I finally found someone in my local area a few years later.
Nice. I keep debating buying a somewhat old 911 Porsche (2005-2008), but then I remember I live in Florida now, and its basically bumper cars down here. I will stick with the FJ Cruiser for now.
While greed is the name of the day with some shops. Its priceless to have a place with integrity and professionals who have your best interest at heart. Thanks for showing us that you can be honest, hardworking and still make a living.
Changing times. Back in the late 80's I had an Audi Quattro 5K which developed a bad CV. Initially I thought to buy a kit to rebuild the joint, that was $114.00. the counterman pointed out that I could buy a complete rebuilt shaft for $85.00. So, I did the obvious.
Car is 1995. 993.
If a brake pad ware sensor causes “grief”
Introduce them to someone who has lost a loved one in a car accident.
@@fastinradfordable ? The brakes were replaced. This was just the sensor that wouldn’t turn off even after being replaced.
Awesome car. I've never done CV's on a Porsche so this was a fun video.
That's a 100 grant car with the 6-speed
993’s seem to be the holy grail now, other than a 2.7 RS, as last of the air-cooled. Don’t know about in the US, but prices here in the UK have rocketed. A work colleague of mine in the early 2000’s had one those in exactly the same blue colour.
I am a retired mechanic and glad to see you don't rip people
I used to do tons of those on VW Golfs in Germany. Also it’s a lot of fun when you have the CV joint rebuilt and put on the shaft and realize the cv boot is still in the box. 😬😳
A girl got in my 911 and said, "nice Volkswagon" and I thanked her for the compliment. 31 years later, we're still together.
Lucky man
You and the porsche?
I call them 6 cylinder VW's myself......😁
@@ericbrandt829 $90K Corvair! :)
If she says “souped up VW”, I say “get out”
Mizz Wizz never misses an opportunity to teach! It's in her DNA.
Dear Car Wizard you are a sincere and honest auto -technician! Greetings from Pretoria South Africa.
goeie middag
@@organiccold Goeie naand Inacio F Marques gaan dit goed? Jy praat Afrikaans! My magtag!
@@adriaanpretorius3411 de kat krabt de krullen van de trap
Petoria lol family guy reference
I’m late to the comment section, but
6:33
“We’ll check the pads. I really don’t need to cuz they’re brand new, but we’ll check.”
Brand new, excellent shape without a shadow of a doubt, but he checked them anyway. That’s the level of expertise and attention to detail I strive to have myself. ✊
Pulling a Clarkson there with that Beetle comment. Haha!
It is or better Beetle is a Porsche and both are basically a copy of Tatra
If anything he is mechanical stiggs great nephew.
Hitlermobile
If you don't have a local wizard, you can ship your Porsche's CV shafts to CV of Ocala for a rebuild.
Rebuilding one is not necessarily a pro-only job, although it's not for beginners.
I ran a D.W. warehouse for Heating/Cooling, C.V. shafts, Rack & Pinions. Technically they are called "Half Shafts" and you can send them off to Powerline in Robuck,S.C. to have them rebuilt ( as long as the cages aren't broke) last set of Porsche 911 half-shafts I sent off were $129.95 each- My price- Let alone $3,000.00 for a set.
@@danielscott6787 My take on the "ship out for a rebuild"....When I helped build "off road" buggy's" with 930 hardware....We marked CV assemblies...inner/outer and LH/RH to make sure they went back in the way they were installed for new...same for the axles they went back the same way they came out...The metal takes a "set" from all the forces and you don't want to mix things up...I'm pretty sure these rebuild shops aren't taking the same precautions....Might be fine for a non HP application but, 930 Turbo? I'm putting them in the way the were stressed to prevent failure!
back in 1990 replaced a Porsche CV Joint that was clicking. It was about $65 or $130 (not sure now). that was for a 944 Turbo. Easy to change, the Axle shaft had a VW-Audi stamp on it..........so today say $500 parts (4 CV joints) and labor, that seems within reason
I rebuilt several shafts in the old days. From my recollection, it was Toyota that started the idea of not selling rebuild kits and only selling complete shafts when the boots died. I remember getting in an 81 AMC Eagle and 81 Toyota Camry with torn boots. With the AMC it was $14 for boot kits for both front axles. No one made boot kits for the Toyota and we had to replace both shafts at $225 for both sides, The owner of the Toyota was not a happy camper. He called Toyota and they told him they had seen too much problems with people replacing the boots improperly and then having the CV joints fail completely. This was probably due to fact that too many shade tree mechanics not taking the time to properly evaluate the joints, clean them, and grease them properly before installing the boots.
the wizard is a godsend, an example of what all shops should strive for
If I lived anywhere even remotely close I would try to give him business. Good people.
He's a good mechanic and good man, we may not agree on everything but what friends do?
I may or may not have lashed out in the past, but, I didn't actually hear the words from his lips, just hearsay. Forgive me Wizard.
Over here in Belgium, when the boots (or a boot is) are torn , you won’t pass annual inspection.
They look very similar to VW drive shafts. Very easy to rebuild. Great design from a mechanics viewpoint. Cheers Wizard
Car Wizard - the mechanic who won't give you the shaft... unless you need one.
Thiccc and girthy shaftt you mean!? ;)
Do you mean he doesn't give a shaft?
Don't forget to grease the shaft
Wizzard you are the kind of mechanic that most owners want, most mechanics now day doesnt want to rebuild parts even if its cheapper
Mrs Wizard: “you mean he doesn’t want to look like you and be bald?” Lol wrecked.
When I started in the dealership in the early '70's, we almost never replaced axle assemblies unless damaged in an accident or some other unusual circumstance.
With inexpensive axle assemblies manufactured in low cost countries, it doesn't make much sense to rebuild axle shafts, though, in my opinion many of these assemblies are of so-so quality and the original equipment joints often are longer lasting. On my own vehicle, I replaced my joints with original German made joints. But, it's hard to argue when World Pack will see complete axle assembles for $45-70 each for many vehicles.
@TableRocked Can confirm that the cheap aftermarket shafts for, say, a MkIV VW are a FAR cry from OEM original. Aftermarket axles are cheap for a reason. If you take the original and set it next to a Chinese-made replacement, the differences in quality are immediately visible, even without taking the boots off.
Factory VW CV joints tend to last as long as the boots stay intact (as long as the suspension geometry hasn't been wildly altered, and you haven't massively increased engine power output). I have an '02 TDI that racked up close to 300k miles on it, and the CV joints were perfectly fine... unfortunately the boots were so brittle, I managed to split them open while I was replacing the clutch. Based on prior experience, I knew I wanted OE-quality shafts, but at $400+ a side from VW, that wasn't really an option. Luckily an outfit in Florida ("Raxles") rebuilds and sells OEM shafts for a lot cheaper than new, and so far I've been extremely pleased with the result. And after the core refund, still very reasonably priced. However, they *only accept OEM axles* as cores... again because the aftermarket crap is just that: crap.
And the previous experience I mentioned? That was several years ago, when I purchased a 1.8T Jetta wagon, which, after purchasing, I realized had a split CV boot. A local shop ended up putting aftermarket axles on it (because I knew no better), and at least one side only lasted about 20k miles before it started clunking.
I can't say much about aftermarket options for other makes. So it may not be a universal truth across everything. But I would avoid aftermarket axles like the plague for any VAG product, absolutely.
@@dphoenix1 Just working in a bicycle shop for a summer, we had to routinely replace the ball bearings in everything from overseas as part of the assembly process. We didn't even tell the customer. The originals were simply defective and made out of obviously recycled steel. We had so many warranty issues that since we had to pack and assemble the bearings as part of the process, we just had a couple of bins with several thousand of the two main sizes. Toss the originals, put the new ones in. Just to save ourselves the extra work and headaches. And that was for bicycles. It's even worse for vehicles. $40 barely covers the cost of properly made bearings of that size.
As dphonenix has stated, the quality of OEM CV joints/stub axle assemblies is usually superior to the inexpensive axle assemblies sold by most parts operators.
A GKN/Lobro CV joint part by itself will usually sell for more than the entire axle assembly from an after market company. And that's before you even add for the CV boot kit and the labor to replace the joint.
In some cases, certain firms will rebuild/refurbish the joint and/or an axle assembly where the parts are no longer available or are extremely expensive. For most people they can't understand why they should spend $300+ for an OEM assembly vs an aftermarket part that I can sell to them for $80-125 for most vehicles. (That includes my margin)
The truth is that unless the boot has an ultra small leak of grease, you can't just put a new boot on it with grease and let it go. I take the joint off, clean it and exam it for pitting in the surface of the roller ball or the surface that the ball bearing rides against. Even if just started to leak grease, in my experience, 50% of the time it needs a new joint.
This is not to say that all aftermarket parts are of poor quality, especially in the area of brake parts. Cheap rotors can crack or warp, pads wear out fast or separate from the backing plate etc. But, some pads and rotors are of superior quality to OEM parts. You pay your money and make your choice.
The drivers front axel on my daughters Honda Fit broke, a new one was $68.00 and a hour of work. That was last year, this year a recall for the same problem
When I change my oil in my car I always spray the CV boots with silicone spray I've got over 260,000 miles on my 2001 Chevy Cavalier with the original Factory axles
Any brand or type in particular?
@@orkoto6057 CRC or WD forty silicone spray.
Do you spray the whole thing or a specific part
@@supersnake6450 Just the rubber boots on the ends of the axle.
Nice one wizard. This is what I like, oily bits and pieces and a description of the repair😀
Great stuff.
when wizard asked mrs wizard if she wanted any of those balls I thought she should have said no I got yours😆
The 'those are slimey' comment :)
Mrs wizard is a classy woman. Dont think you will get a snarky comment from her... let alone on camera. Her kids watch the videos.
WEEZARD, I appreciate your honesty with your customers. I love my mechanic of years now. Rich Dean, (Porsche builders/Custom Design) in Athens, Ga. He is the most honest mechanic I have ever seen. He has saved me thousands of dollars over the years with my many BMW's and Porsches. You guys are hard to find!! Love ya for your honesty!!! Keep up the GREAT work!
Wish there was more mechanics like the wizard. Honesty is a big thing for me when getting my vehicle repaired. Keep up the great work.✌🏼
I know what you mean about the parts.I recently replaced the lower suspension arms on my car. One of the bushes on either side was starting to fail so I bought both arms. the cost to me was just under 100 Pounds UK inc delivery. and I made sure I had the parts in my posession before going to my shop to have them fitted. I also means The labour charge was a whole lot less than just replacing the worn bushes and I have a brand new bottom arm swivel joint as well. You give very good and fair advice to your customers. I certainly use you. Many thanks.
Buyer beware - not all "new" CV shafts are created equal. The CV shafts in our H1's require the mating surface of the axle joint where it goes into the hub to be within very tight tolerances. A new CV half shaft from AM General can run upwards of $600. The same CV on Rockauto is listed as... $75. Problem is that during the remanufacturing process, that rebuilt "new" CV from Rockauto was turned down on a machine - and that mating surface is WAY out of spec. When its installed, it'll look like it fits and works just fine. but then you go down the road a couple miles and all of your hub oil will get sprayed out of the input seal, and then it will seize up hard and then you're looking at a brand new $4000 hub assembly.
I heard something about plastic headlamps being "recommended" or "encouraged" in newer cars because they are less likely to injure pedestrians in low-speed impacts but a recent search didn't turn up any regulations to that effect so maybe it's just internet hearsay. I still prefer glass assemblies, myself.
As for CV axles, it's kind of tricky to figure out exactly where the noise is coming from to find the exact fault, especially if the boots aren't damaged. Usually if the noise isn't present except under load when turning, it's an outer joint that's failing. If it's clicky while going straight without much change when turning, it's probably an inner joint failing. I have an Italian car with similar CV axles to this Porsche and it too needs some joint service (sounds like there's an air hammer in there, likely an inner joint). Unlike most other cars, these also appear to be designed to be serviced rather than replaced as an assembly, which is nice if you can get the individual parts. I also like not having to drain the transaxle/diff when removing the axles, but such an arrangement can make it difficult to replace the shaft seals. Win some, lose some, I suppose.
I absolutely love the detailed walk-trough both of the car and the considerations regarding re-building vs. replacing. Very interesting, and very entertaining!
Really, really good tip about checking parts availability. Even I just being a guy working on my cars and my friends' cars have learned that lesson the hard way. Working on a rare older car often makes for a struggle finding parts, you expect this, but even more normal cars can run into problems. I was amazed how it was impossible to find a crank pulley holder for a Toyota once in stock anywhere in town. Ended up renting a Mazda/Ford one that could be made to work. I don't start work anymore until I have everything in my hands. Too much heartache and wasted time in the past!
3000$, i'd feel shafted.
Kudos, Wizard! I don't know of any other shop that would do the proper thing and get their hands dirty to save the customer parts costs. I'm only a lowly bike mechanic, but my mantra is always "rebuild before replacing" if possible. Good on ya! Thanks for tellin' 'em how it's done, Mr. and Mrs. Wizard!✌️❤️🙂🇨🇦
Nice to see Wizard's new Bendpak's in the background! Looks like you're making good use of them already.
10:50 Today I watched Mrs. Wizard refuse the Car Wizard's balls because they were too slimy.
Glad to see you kept the parts that weren't worn and only changed the joint that was worn. All about spotting the torn boot(s) early enough.
I've done the fronts on a Mercedes W203 C280 4Matic, when the motor mounts die the engine sags and puts the inner CV boots at a bad angle and they will eventual tear. Did the mounts then did the half shafts, I order new/re-maned shafts and kept the originals ones new boots. Nice vid!
Just replaced 2 torn CV boots on my A5. A bit of a mess but way cheaper than replacing the shafts.
At 13:28 ...
There is no need to put a car on a lift to inspect the boots. Just turn the steering wheel all the way, switch off the engine and inspect with a mirror and flashlight. A torn booth is always covered with grease. That works fine for almost all (front-wheel drive) cars. For rear-wheel-driven cars, you park them on the curb and crawl under them.
The real honest and skilled mechanic... Wizard..(show them the trouble cutting the cv from the axe..)
Regards from Athens Greece..
Great show Mr. & Mrs. Wizzard. You guys really make this easy. Thanks for sharing.
The outer CV boots on my VW golf were torn, I bought a pair of new boots
around $15, it was surprisingly easy to disassemble the CV joints and
replace the boots, took around 15 minutes each side, all you need is a
pair of good snap-ring pliers and a tube of CV grease. Good as new,
saved $300!
Absolutely. That Porsche 993.2 is worth ~$75K. He should condition the leather seats or they will crack. The last air cooled Porsche 911 made. Labor rate now for Porsches in L.A. CA is now over $125 an hour. CHEAPSKATES try to buy the parts themself!!! And often the wrong parts. Don't buy aftermarket parts. Sheetmetal, too. Taiwanese body parts are junk.
Wonderful stuff . And your so right abt buying parts Ive experienced many Ebay sellers advertising parts they just dont have . ..or never will !
Wizard , what you explained on the parts availability online is a difference between a site that's live( inventory) or not . The difference is if you place an order on a item if it's out of stock it would tell you instantly vs ordering, then they proceed to tell you it is currently out of stock & you'll get it in 3 weeks
Thanks for another GREAT and EDUCATIONAL video, David !!!
Yea... what the HELL is the deal with parts showing available online, then after you order them, it's "oh sorry, those are out of stock". WELL THEN WHYYYYY ARE THEY ONLINE??
...so true
Once you've paid for them and they have the money....you can wait...it doesn't cost them to wait...they can supply..it just won't be quick...they have the use of your money for all of the wait time....because they don't pay until the part is delivered to them...
Reputable suppliers generally don't do this. I buy from FCP Euro and Rockauto (stick to the good brands though). Wizard was on Rockauto.com btw. I have no connection to them.
Beautiful car for sure. A 'squashed beetle' as Jeremy Clarkson jokingly called them. My favorite kind LOL. I had many Porsches and VWs and I've yet to replace an entire shaft. I'll always just replace the CV joints and boots. Buying an entire shaft is crazy as they are really beefy and made to last forever really and lot easier to service than most CV shafts i've seen. Not many shops are willing to rebuild the shafts for you though. Most will replace the entire thing or will not do the job otherwise. Kudos to CW for that. Good video!
When 993 first arrived, it came with a completely redesigned rear suspension box. My favorite. Nice job.
Good tip on ordering parts.
Made a mistake of ordering a master cylinder from a place, THEN reading reviews on them.
Many complaints about not having parts in stock.
I contacted them, and yep, same thing. Then took over two weeks to issue the refund.
I love your channel & your philosophy regarding your clients (and flogged Beemers)…You & The Ninja have the best 2 Vlogs on the web, daylight second….
One of the fastest cars in NFS Heat. It's great with Rauh-Welt wide body kit. RWB is awesome.
You are such a great teacher. I wish you could show us the repair like you removing the CV Axles
Good video. Last summer you recommended to replace the CV shafts on whatever you were working on. I had an outside boot on my CS that was slinging a line of grease on the inside of my rear wheel (another way to ID a bad boot), so I was going to take your advice and replace the shaft. Holy crap they wanted $1K for the 1 shaft. I'm like your 993 owner who will do some DIY stuff but I didn't have the tools to rebuild an axle. Contacted my local indy and he would replace the boots for $300. No brainer.
hey wizard... nice video. at 5:16 you comment that on the passenger side of the car behind the lower front grill "you can see the air conditioning condenser". that actually is the oil cooler on the passenger side, the condenser is on the driver's side of the car in a similar position visible looking through the grill. great tour of the underside... no one ever does that. thanks
really enjoying your videos! I learn something each time
I commend you for saving your customers money. I think a lot of shops simply take the easy way out of replacing entire axles instead of rebuilding the CV joints. It's less risky for them using all-new parts, and . . . it makes them more money.
April fool's guys! I knew that wasn't a VW, it's obviously a 69 Toyota Tacoma.
The price of those late 60s Tacomas is skyrocketing these days.
Great video wizard ! Appreciate your honesty
Absolutely brilliant Dave, very insightful. I always learn something when watching your videos. Keep it going and er ... more Porsche please :-)
Love the nice simple interior and not electronic garbage that it is today.
Hi Car Wizard and Mrs. Wizard from Vancouver BC, you two are a wonderful couple!!
Thanks for your knowledge and the fun entertainment!!
Love the new intro with your best clips David!
Great video Wizard. I've always had VW and done CV boots and joints on my Golfs. I've never had a Porsche but the DNA of VW runs through all of them.
I bought the special pliers you need to tighten the clamps on new CV boots back in the mid-90’s. Used it once, and it’s taken up space in my toolbox ever since.
Yeah , I have one too .
Bill's taste in cars is 10/10
i had a hyundai santa fe, had a torn boot (diesel smell in the cab on a gas engine was the only clue that something was wrong). since it was still under hyundai warranty, they make the dealership rebuild the cv shaft instead of do the 30 minute pull & replace and give the car back to the owner. think that is so stupid when it cost the dealership much more on the labor for the rebuild than to just replace the whole shaft. not the reason i got rid of that car, the seat was killing my back. own a dodge grand caravan now and i love it.
Thanks for another informative video, Wizard. With my wife's previous 2004 VW Passat GLS 4Motion, it was more affordable to replace the entire half shaft. Interesting to know on a 911, however, it is less to rebuild.
If I could help The Car Wizards rebuild the CV axles on the Porsche 993 I would roll up the Wool-o and get all schmoked up.
$3k is not a lot for a car like this. Imagine what it would cost at the dealer. Porsche dealer costs on my newer Porsches are getting close to the same as my Ferrari 355 if not more. People balk at $10k for a major on a 355 that you do every 5 years, try maintenance on a 991.
That Porsche has a beautiful paint color, it reminds me of the Nitewatch Blue metallic paint on the '79 Tbird I once had, that I really liked.
Had to get some rust repaired on my S6. I called around to see if anywhere stocked the roof skin with either the sunroof or without. I knew Audi didn't make or stock them but after asking the body shop to dig in, it would be unavailable. It was weird though because some shops would say they could get one or the other initially. Also the passengers side drip rail is still available but the drivers side is not.
I work on these almost every day, they are great to work on once you get to know your way around them.
You’re a god to me bro. I would love to have the knowledge you guys have and fix my own vehicle. If I ever had the balls to fix my own vehicle I would attack the suspension and handling components. Then engine issues.
Some thin strips of foam might make those vents in your walls quieter.
Love that model of porche!
Car Wizard .... I always enjoy and learn from your great videos .... Thank you and Mrs. Car Wizard as well .
Hey Car Wizard. Love your content and have learned a lot already from you. Maybe you could do some videos explaining how cars work? How the engine works and how it connects to the gearbox etc etc. Would be great content and very educational. Keep up the great work! Mrs Wizard does a great job too!
You might also add for the DIY'ers that FWD requires a few certain tools that are not cheap as well - the crimping pliars for the clamps, etc.
Regarding the CV shafts, I have this conversation about replace/repair all the time with my customers ( I repair diesels, tractors and equipment)
In the end, the cost of labor dictates what is disposable. People always complain that its a throw-away world and nothing lasts like it should. But in the end, so long as new parts are available, manufactured in other countries for cheaper than the domestic labor to repair your part, most everything can be considered disposable in one degree or another.
The 1995 model year I think was the last of the hand assembled 911's from Porsche. A fine looking car indeed. Such a distinctive sound also from that era.
If I owned this vehicle, I would hold on to it for as long as possible. This was the last of the good quality reliable vehicles that Porsche produced. New vehicles from Porsche are over complicated with electronics. In many cases, even the official Porsche dealership cannot find and repair a problem with the first visit to that dealership.😂
I know about parts issues. Watching one of your electrical troubleshooting videos, I decided to order through your store at Amazon the power robe tester, it’s running late according to Amazon 😂😂👍, No problem, it’s somewhere on a truck or airplane heading my way. I don’t need it right away but thought it would be a great tool to have in the box. And by the way I purchased those mountain flex head box end wrenches in standard/ metric they are awesome. Put them right to work on my 1977 Buick Regal, had to change the belts on the 350-H motor the one that’s a pain is the power steering belt because the stud/nut assembly on the back side of the pump is right next to the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. It’s always a pain to tighten but with the Flex wrench , a peace of cake 👍👍👍
Had a leaking power steering pump on my 2011 Citroen. £150 for an unknown second hand unit, £250 for a rebuilt unit or £400 for a new one. Pulled the pump apart myself, O ring had shrunk just due to age. Measured up and ordered a new one. Put it all back together, that was 2 years ago, no further leaks. Total cost 2 hours of my time, £10 power steering oil and £7.50 for the O rings. ( I replaced the low pressure side one also, although it wasn't leaking. )
Hello Car Wizard: You are a very very good technician and I like your ethics. There need to be more like you.
Great video Wizard! Love my 993. Best Porsche I've ever owned.
Excellent, I do exactly the same with parts online shops, I call them to check the actual availability.
One of the prettiest Porsche’s of all time. Prices are stabilising now. Last air cooled series production Porsche, pre variocam model. Nice. REALLY NICE. I listed after these cars for years. It’s just a good example of a classic design.
As an owner, not a mechanic, I have rebuilt dozens of CVs....VW, Audi, Mercedes, Nissan, Isuzu.....even when the boot was compromised and they literally had mud in them, I've been able to disassemble, clean, inspect, then reassemble, grease and new boots on, all in half a day or less. Some are really easy to get out. Of all of the ones I've done I've only ever had to replace two joints...because the scarring on the ball bearings and cages was too great. That taught me to always look at the boots every time I can and especially after off-road. Some scarring can be okay, when you don't have the funds on hand....put it back together and run it and keep an eye on it. Even the really scarred ones gave me another 5K miles. Anyway, good stuff. I don't think any DIY home mechanic like myself should shy away from rebuilding CVs, they're simple.
So how did he not notice the wear sensor wire was undone?
WOW, love the Porsche, Thanks Wizard always a learning moment
Thanks for the info Wizard! You guys have a good day!
We had a customer with a rare MB station wagon with 4wd, and had to change a CV shaft. They wanted over 3 grand for it. so the customer settled for a second hand one, and we put it on his car. The customer was aware that we could not give him any warranty on the part, but we got it replaced and it is still running good, two years later.
You are exactly correct this is a variant of a Volkswagen Beetle. The Volkswagen Beetles were built by Ferdinand Porsche. And all of these rear engine vehicles are variations of that exact car.
Tech tip. On those new boots on those half shafts. Take some 303 protectant. Soak those half shaft boots quite liberally and let it soak in. If the owner will spray those with the 303 whenever he does and oil change. The will never care unless they're physically damaged by a foreign object. I doubt that they would ever come apart.
I lost it when he asked his wife if she needed any balls...
Another great video. Yeap! In some cases, it is cheaper too rebuild than replace. Once again, THANK YOU ALL, at OMGA car clinic for being 💯 honest with your customers
Did CV reboot on outer shafts last weekend, $17 a boot, new shafts were $300 each. It's all in the cleaning cleaning cleaning.
Things like this are why you have to build a good relationship with your mechanic. Finding a good reputable car guy is essential. That's why when I moved I still drove 100 miles to my guy's shop until I finally found someone in my local area a few years later.
Nice. I keep debating buying a somewhat old 911 Porsche (2005-2008), but then I remember I live in Florida now, and its basically bumper cars down here. I will stick with the FJ Cruiser for now.
Watched the video. Promptly went online to check prices of complete CV axle assemblies for my car. 😄
While greed is the name of the day with some shops. Its priceless to have a place with integrity and professionals who have your best interest at heart. Thanks for showing us that you can be honest, hardworking and still make a living.
Changing times. Back in the late 80's I had an Audi Quattro 5K which developed a bad CV. Initially I thought to buy a kit to rebuild the joint, that was $114.00. the counterman pointed out that I could buy a complete rebuilt shaft for $85.00. So, I did the obvious.
I read the title about Wizard saving owner thousands and the first thing that popped in my head is Wizard set his car on fire. 😂🤣😂
That’s hilarious. You uploaded this video while I was having my car get the front two cv joints and started replaced