Not to be critical, but in the interest of helping: It isn't necessary to remove the A/C pump. I just did this repair and what I did was remove the fans and cowling behind the radiator to allow room to get the alternator physically out. All I did was use an extension with a 14 mm socket to get to the hidden bolt at the pivot point. I did have to use a cheater bar on my ratchet to break it free. I notice the video skips releasing the tension on the serpentine using the adjustment bolt up top. It also skips disconnecting the electrical leads.
Thanks for the refresher, Jim. My electrical system died right in the middle of traffic (idiot lights going off everywhere) and the alternator was the culprit. Second one in just around three years. I pulled the cooling fans out (very easy) and dropped the A/C compressor as I get a little claustrophobic in tight places. Air ratchet also speeds up the process but not necessary to "get 'er done." Regards...
great video - thank you. this is the 3rd alt to go out on my 00 maxima with 197k miles. the last two were NAPA parts, 12k on the 1st and maybe 40k on this one. I am replacing it myself this time. what brand do you recommend so it will last? should I pay the price for a factory one?
Toyota brand Nippondenso (Denso) will outlast them all fwiw but sorry to say it's weakness is just in the overall design Nissan. The old Datsun/Nissans had them up until Nissan became French owned then it started using inferior junk ass Hitachi/Bosch electronic parts that simply don't last. The 1970' and 80's Datsun/Nissans I had came with Denso Alt/Starter from factory and they all still had originals on them after 200k miles when sold. It's the poor design of them now though we cant get around easy, so understand that.
@@harryballz6358 thanks. What's your input on ACDelco alternators? I guess the "gold professional" series is supposed to use good quality components so I ordered it
I paid 130 bucks to my mechanic for labor. I thought he ripped me off ,but now that I look at all the work, I'm thinking I was the one who ripped him off..lol.
The last bolt is a little hard to get to but the way I get to it is with a 3 ft long 3/8 extension with a swivel and the socket. Good luck if you need any other advice let me know
Damn it...mine is charging at 11 volts and I'm told it should be 14. This looks like a pain. Edit: It went out today after having tested it it the day prior. I'll be replacing mine tomorrow. I don't have the luxury of a lift, but where there's a will, there's a way. I've seen other guys on here remove things from the top, but after watching your video twice, I'm hoping that's not necessary. 2000 Infiniti i30. Fingers crossed.
Hey Jim. I'm having a hard time with that clip on the alternator. I've already broken the release part. Any suggestions? Well, I got everything off. Problem is, with that plug on top of the alternator I accidently removed the wires from the clip. And removed the clip from the alternator after the fact. Not quite sure how I'm gonna figure out which of the two wires goes into which hole
@@Zdh1998 I got it squared away. A new connector is $70 through the manufacturer. Cant find one in salvage. I've got them connected without the plastic housing that goes around the connections. No problems thus far.
I used your video to replace my alternator on a 2001 Nissan Maxima, but I ran into a problem. The rear alternator bolt head appears to be only half the height it should be. Neither my husband or I could get anything on it enough to spin it. This alternator has never been changed or moved, so we're baffled as to why this bolt head is half the height it should be. Would you happen to have any idea what we can do at this point to get it off? Also, I noticed there is a nut on the other end of the bolt. My husband thinks this nut shouldn't be touched, but I'm ready to give it a whirl to see what happens, because I don't know how many other options we have of getting this bolt out. Would you happen to know what nut I'm talking about and if it is safe to remove? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
+Heidi Miller Hi Heidi,The bolt head that is half the height is there a small bracket attached to that bolt?If there is then you can remove the nut on the other end and the bolt will slide out..If you want to send me a picture of the nut or bolt my email is jsauto103@optonline.net.Jim
+jimthecarguy Thank you, Jim, for your response! It's greatly appreciated! We don't recall seeing a bracket, but neither were we looking for one. We won't be able to get to the alternator again until this weekend, but we'll look for it and keep you posted. Thanks again!
+Heidi Miller I thought I'd come back to update. My husband called a local dealership to get a replacement rear bolt, because of what we thought was a half head on the bolt. He was informed that it is designed that way, so he just needed to take the nut off the other end and hold the bolt head with a wrench. I watched as many Nissan Maxima alternator videos as I could find and haven't seen anyone with this design. In any case, if anyone runs into this, know that it's perfectly normal. We had to take off the tensioner pulley in order to get to the nut, though. As for the bracket, I believe you may have been talking about the one attached to the front bolt, near the electrical connections. We didn't see any located at the rear bolt. Thanks again, Jim, for your help! You didn't have to respond, but you did and I appreciate it. Definitely a subscriber to your videos!
Val Vrobyov tip: drip just a couple drops of water on the belt. maybe use a small squirt bottle. give it one little squirt at a time and it should mute the squeek. this will tell you if it's the belt (make sure you test both sides of the belt) if nothing changes, squirt your pully in the center to check those places. good luck!
about how long would it take a good mechanic to R&R the alternator and tensioner pulley and belts on a 2000 maxima? is a $120.00 labor to much? or is that a fair price?
Hi it will take about 2-3 hr if everything comes apart without any problems.Remember rust is always a big problem and $120.00 is a far price .good luck
Hi my friend is a mechanic and he did it for free , I think he was sorry he didn't charge me. but I am A PAINTING CONTRACTOR so I painted his little girls bedroom in exchange . I should have paid the $120.00 if you catch my drift.
It took me 4 attempts to come up with a way to loosen the power steering mount bolt on the back and ended up snapping the head off the adjustment screw and had to drive to dealership and buy a new one. Then the serpentine belt idler lock nut was rounded off so back to the dealer for a whole new idler pulley and tensioner setup. Then the ac compressor bolts I had to take off with a breaker bar. Snapped the head off one and stripped the threads on another. Then when the ac compressor lowered down the metal tube hit the alternator wires and caused them to spark and blow my main fuse on the battery
If I had to do belts again on a maxima that never had it done before like mine was, I would disconnect the battery, cut both belts off, remove both tensioners and throw them away ($6 for new power steering adjuster and $65 for new idler and adjuster for other belt). Then loosen the nut on back of power steering pump. Install new tensioners and route and tighten belts then lock down nuts on ps adjuster screw, idler pulley, and ps pump hinge and be done with it.
Mine did to I finally got it off by using a drill to drill through the but unfortunately I drillled throught the bolt so I have to replace the pulley assembly but 3 days to figure out how to get it loose since I only have a few hours a day to work on it. Does anyone know what MM the square bolt holding in my alternator is?
Not to be critical, but in the interest of helping: It isn't necessary to remove the A/C pump. I just did this repair and what I did was remove the fans and cowling behind the radiator to allow room to get the alternator physically out. All I did was use an extension with a 14 mm socket to get to the hidden bolt at the pivot point. I did have to use a cheater bar on my ratchet to break it free. I notice the video skips releasing the tension on the serpentine using the adjustment bolt up top. It also skips disconnecting the electrical leads.
Thanks for the refresher, Jim. My electrical system died right in the middle of traffic (idiot lights going off everywhere) and the alternator was the culprit. Second one in just around three years. I pulled the cooling fans out (very easy) and dropped the A/C compressor as I get a little claustrophobic in tight places. Air ratchet also speeds up the process but not necessary to "get 'er done." Regards...
7:29 pm, just did this it worked , thanks man
Eres una pirinola bien parada para quitar los alternadores compa te felicito
Thanks for watching.
You have done this in the day
Very informative. Thank you.
Fantastic production. Short, sweet and accurate, Saved me some time my friend. Much love ( :
Glad it helped!
@@jimthecarguy me too! Thanks again ( :
Happy to be of help .Thanks for watching
thanks man! just what I was looking for
Great video! thanks for sharing. Will this work on a 2001 Infiniti i30 as well?
Thanks.
Yes the Infiniti will be the exact same proecdure .Thanks for watching
great video - thank you. this is the 3rd alt to go out on my 00 maxima with 197k miles. the last two were NAPA parts, 12k on the 1st and maybe 40k on this one. I am replacing it myself this time. what brand do you recommend so it will last? should I pay the price for a factory one?
+JDLinAK To be honest I do like the Napa brand alternator .Are you sure that you battery is good .That can cause the alternator to go bad quickly.
Toyota brand Nippondenso (Denso) will outlast them all fwiw but sorry to say it's weakness is just in the overall design Nissan. The old Datsun/Nissans had them up until Nissan became French owned then it started using inferior junk ass Hitachi/Bosch electronic parts that simply don't last. The 1970' and 80's Datsun/Nissans I had came with Denso Alt/Starter from factory and they all still had originals on them after 200k miles when sold. It's the poor design of them now though we cant get around easy, so understand that.
@@harryballz6358 thanks. What's your input on ACDelco alternators? I guess the "gold professional" series is supposed to use good quality components so I ordered it
I paid 130 bucks to my mechanic for labor. I thought he ripped me off ,but now that I look at all the work, I'm thinking I was the one who ripped him off..lol.
D A E your right that was a great price
jimthecarguy Thanks.
more lighting would have been helpful but thanks for the vid and the learnings
Hi Jim what type of extension did you use to get the last bolt out?
The last bolt is a little hard to get to but the way I get to it is with a 3 ft long 3/8 extension with a swivel and the socket. Good luck if you need any other advice let me know
What size is the socket
Just brought a alternator for 200$ from autozone ... trying to find a good price to pay for it to be installed... what should be the maximum i go?
Damn it...mine is charging at 11 volts and I'm told it should be 14. This looks like a pain.
Edit: It went out today after having tested it it the day prior. I'll be replacing mine tomorrow. I don't have the luxury of a lift, but where there's a will, there's a way. I've seen other guys on here remove things from the top, but after watching your video twice, I'm hoping that's not necessary.
2000 Infiniti i30. Fingers crossed.
Actually you can do it from the top but it is a lot more involved. From the bottom is quicker. Thanks for watching.
Hey Jim. I'm having a hard time with that clip on the alternator. I've already broken the release part. Any suggestions?
Well, I got everything off. Problem is, with that plug on top of the alternator I accidently removed the wires from the clip. And removed the clip from the alternator after the fact. Not quite sure how I'm gonna figure out which of the two wires goes into which hole
just buy a new connector and you'll figure it out brother
@@Zdh1998 I got it squared away. A new connector is $70 through the manufacturer. Cant find one in salvage. I've got them connected without the plastic housing that goes around the connections. No problems thus far.
I used your video to replace my alternator on a 2001 Nissan Maxima, but I ran into a problem. The rear alternator bolt head appears to be only half the height it should be. Neither my husband or I could get anything on it enough to spin it. This alternator has never been changed or moved, so we're baffled as to why this bolt head is half the height it should be. Would you happen to have any idea what we can do at this point to get it off?
Also, I noticed there is a nut on the other end of the bolt. My husband thinks this nut shouldn't be touched, but I'm ready to give it a whirl to see what happens, because I don't know how many other options we have of getting this bolt out. Would you happen to know what nut I'm talking about and if it is safe to remove?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
+Heidi Miller Hi Heidi,The bolt head that is half the height is there a small bracket attached to that bolt?If there is then you can remove the nut on the other end and the bolt will slide out..If you want to send me a picture of the nut or bolt my email is jsauto103@optonline.net.Jim
+jimthecarguy Thank you, Jim, for your response! It's greatly appreciated! We don't recall seeing a bracket, but neither were we looking for one. We won't be able to get to the alternator again until this weekend, but we'll look for it and keep you posted. Thanks again!
+Heidi Miller I thought I'd come back to update. My husband called a local dealership to get a replacement rear bolt, because of what we thought was a half head on the bolt. He was informed that it is designed that way, so he just needed to take the nut off the other end and hold the bolt head with a wrench. I watched as many Nissan Maxima alternator videos as I could find and haven't seen anyone with this design. In any case, if anyone runs into this, know that it's perfectly normal. We had to take off the tensioner pulley in order to get to the nut, though.
As for the bracket, I believe you may have been talking about the one attached to the front bolt, near the electrical connections. We didn't see any located at the rear bolt.
Thanks again, Jim, for your help! You didn't have to respond, but you did and I appreciate it. Definitely a subscriber to your videos!
+Heidi Miller Thank you.Let me know how it is when you get it finished
I live in an apartment. This is gonna be tough to do with only one parking stall and a small jack. Thanks for the video tho.
Yes it will be hard to do in a limited space.Thanks for your feed back .Jim
It was hard. But did In 4 hours. Wish I had a 3/8 ratchet extension. Now the belts squeaking. Not sure if its too loose or tight.
The squeaking is most likely the belt is to loose. great job
Oh ok. Ty sir. I got a 96 SE VQ with 260,000 miles. I love beast. Still runs like a champ. Great videos A+++
Val Vrobyov tip: drip just a couple drops of water on the belt. maybe use a small squirt bottle. give it one little squirt at a time and it should mute the squeek. this will tell you if it's the belt (make sure you test both sides of the belt) if nothing changes, squirt your pully in the center to check those places. good luck!
about how long would it take a good mechanic to R&R the alternator and tensioner pulley and belts on a 2000 maxima? is a $120.00 labor to much? or is that a fair price?
Hi it will take about 2-3 hr if everything comes apart without any problems.Remember rust is always a big problem and $120.00 is a far price .good luck
120 is really good because the power steering belt is a nightmare
Hi my friend is a mechanic and he did it for free , I think he was sorry he didn't charge me. but I am A PAINTING CONTRACTOR so I painted his little girls bedroom in exchange . I should have paid the $120.00 if you catch my drift.
It took me 4 attempts to come up with a way to loosen the power steering mount bolt on the back and ended up snapping the head off the adjustment screw and had to drive to dealership and buy a new one. Then the serpentine belt idler lock nut was rounded off so back to the dealer for a whole new idler pulley and tensioner setup. Then the ac compressor bolts I had to take off with a breaker bar. Snapped the head off one and stripped the threads on another. Then when the ac compressor lowered down the metal tube hit the alternator wires and caused them to spark and blow my main fuse on the battery
If I had to do belts again on a maxima that never had it done before like mine was, I would disconnect the battery, cut both belts off, remove both tensioners and throw them away ($6 for new power steering adjuster and $65 for new idler and adjuster for other belt). Then loosen the nut on back of power steering pump. Install new tensioners and route and tighten belts then lock down nuts on ps adjuster screw, idler pulley, and ps pump hinge and be done with it.
can I use this alternator in my 04 maxima
I'm not positive but I would say no.
jimthecarguy do u live in baltimore area...I need my alternator fixed?
+Ivy Moore Sorry i'm in Bayonne.
+jimthecarguy oh dang okay well thanks for the awesome video.💋
My damn idler pulley nut is stripped and stuck! 2 weeks no car.
Mine did to I finally got it off by using a drill to drill through the but unfortunately I drillled throught the bolt so I have to replace the pulley assembly but 3 days to figure out how to get it loose since I only have a few hours a day to work on it. Does anyone know what MM the square bolt holding in my alternator is?
Me sirvió como acerlo
is a four wire pig tail into a two pin alternator a problem?
is a four wire pig tail into a two pin alternator a problem?
is a four wire pig tail into a two pin alternator a problem?
is a four wire pig tail into a two pin alternator a problem?
Is a four wire pig tail into a two pin alternator a problem?
Is a four wire pig tail into a two pin alternator a problem?