Thanks for making this video. I bought one of these bikes last fall a 2020 with 600km on it. I took it home just a day or 2 before the snow came for the season. I’ll have to do an oil change in the spring when the snow is gone. A lot less intimidating now that I’ve seen it done here.
I have the same bike and had the same issue with the bolts haning on for dear life. But i tink the oem intervals for the oilchange is extream should be every 5 k MAX
The gurgling as the oil drains, it's because you need to remove the fill plug. If you don't, not all the oil comes out and you risk overfilling. I learned that the hard way.
I never heard of any “filler plug” before. I always unscrewed the oil fill cap when draining oil on my motorcycles and back in the day when people changed their own oil on their cars. It will accomplish the same thing, allow atmospheric pressure in the engine case as the oil vacates. Why would KTM go to the expense of machining and an extra screw plug?
@@SonriseSunset The place you pour oil in at. The filler plug/cap, whatever you want to call it. Unless you're in the habit of draining your oil and calling it a day without putting oil back in. How is it you say "oil fill cap" and I say "fill plug" and you don't realize we're talking about the same thing.
@@howlinhog my bad, in the video it looked like the fill plug is black plastic. When I looked up fill plug for the 790, pics showed a metal cap so I took it to be something diff. Now that I have discovered that, you can take ur snarky self and shove it where the oil doesn’t shine. Bc who doesn’t release they oil cap when draining their oil.
Omg, I can say this is way easier than my duke 390, the second drain plug in towards the front middle of the engine, the main is on the left, and the oil filter is on the right; it’s a pain in the ass; this loooks soooo much easier , lol.
Nicely done. I am getting my 890 next week, it has 6000km on the clock so I want to do an Oil change as well. Already have all the parts here but I am curious if you could not re-use those two Filter "things". I mean, they are metal mesh filters which could be washed with break cleaner.......what do you think about that?
Hey, thanks. You can reuse the screen filters after cleaning them with brake cleaner for example. Mine were probably the factory one and I want to be sure it is good. The previous oil change was made in the dealership. So if it is not deformed, metal mesh is not torn or damaged you can reuse them. I would probably change the O-ring on them to be sure they are seal. Good luck with your bike✌🏻🏍
Hey, yes the oil was pretty burnt😵💫. We will see how the Motul 7100 works. About the seat: the previos owner custom made it. The only downside is the stitchings, they are not waterproof, so every time I clean the bike or it rains, I need to use some kind of seat cover if I do not want to soak the seat foam. Hope my video helps with your oil change✌🏻
That looks so easy to change the air filter On my bike i’ve got to take the fuel tank off Thinking of buying one Are they reliable? Have you had many issues? Would you recommend? How often do you need to change the oil?
Hey, it is reliable as far as I know. The known issues are: -immobilizer screen front cover (polycarbonate) can crack, it is an appearance issue only -valve cover gasket leak-got a revisioned gasket so it is not an issue really -camshaft can wear out around 30k km (~19k miles) -front shock gasket can leak (mine did, cleaned and it helped) For the camshaft you can extend the guarantee, for this you should ask the dealer if possible. The oil change is recommended to change yearly or after every 5000 km (~3000 miles)✌🏻
If you use the side stand you do not need to tip it. Personally, I would not bother with it for a ~50 ml oil :) If you have leftover oil from the last oil change (~200 ml) you can pour it in while the drain plugs and filter are out. That way you can flush some of the leftover oil. But again, I think it is not necessary.
Thank you for this PERFECT Video! Maybe moving the bike a little to the left to get all the old oil out. Older engines could make use of engine flush like "liqui moly 1657". Alternative Air Filter: K&N KT-7918
G'day mate, Quick question, how was your 10w60 experience, did you use it thru the summer or thru winter, am changing my oil now to 10w60, I'll order it this week, the bike gets really bad in traffic mainly because of the weather and the bike temperature as well. Help me out with your opinion if you dun mind. Tab. S Bold
Hi, I use my bike from spring til fall, mainly in town, only at the weekends I go to highway/out of town. 10w60 oil has a slightly higher flash point then 10w50. Now I am using Ester based oil which is the highest grade oil what you can buy (Motul 7100 10W50 4T). In my country summer has max temperature around 43°C (110°F). The reason I asked the KTM service last year for 10W60 is because of summer town traffic but seeing the color of the oil I want to try Motul with the recommended grade. What you mean "bike gets really bad in traffic"? Overheating issue?
@@Mr.Bearded.Mechanic Not overheating mainly, it happens when we had peak traffic times in london, but when the temperature of both climate and bike get high, i get very bad shifts as no oil inside whatsoever. Mktm mechanic told me give 10w60 a go, he's me mate and told usually ktm won't tell you this but it's good lubricant all year. That's why I've asked you how was it with 10w60.
@@SobsSs I see. You can try the 10w60 oil, but personally I did not found difference between shift feel using 10w50 or 10w60. Maybe it was a placebo but I think the engine was noisier with the 10w60. The other thing is the clutch does not have a consistent feeling. Sometimes when I shift into 1st gear slowly, it makes a hard noise and the bike twitch the chain, like I did not pulled the clutch lever enough. But it does with both oil. I adjusted the clutch lever till it has about 2 milimeters of play, and I used now to press hard / quick the shift pedal into 1st gear. I would change the coolant and add Motul moCool additive in it. There is an oil-to-water heat changer on the bike (black box shaped part at the front bottom area) with that you can lower the oil temperature a bit. Radiator has a fan to active cool it, oil does not have a dedicated radiator, hence the heat changer. Hope I was able to answer your question. If the KTM mechanic is your good friend I would listen to him :)
Hi, if you can handle hot oil then go for it. Additives in the synthetic oil do not let particles settle down easily to the bottom of the pan, so hot oil is in my opinion not needed. I was riding the bike that day before the oil change so it was not completely cooled, but was cool enough to handle (around 40 °C). Next time I will give a try for the Motul 300V 10W50 oil, it is double-ester based.
@@Mr.Bearded.Mechanic Don't use 300V, or any double ester oils intended for "racing use", if you mainly do street riding, they're great for the track as they offer better protection but degrade much faster with regular street use. I found this out the hard way on my Street Triple RS with shifts getting very clunky towards the 2000km mark on 300V, further confirmed by a couple of friends who used the same oil in their street bikes. Stick with 7100, it's the best price / performance wise.
Hey, I talked to a KTM mechanic, he says that the camshaft can go bad around 30 000 km (19 000 miles) other than that it is reliable. Some has oil leaks around the heat exchanger and at the head cover but those are relatively easy fixes. Bike is amazing, always makes me smile when I ride it
@@chriswest2290 I am from Hungary, Europe. I specifically asked the dealer to put 10W60 in it because I use the bike mainly in town (heavy traffic) during the hot summer. It still burned a bit so now I am using Motul 7100 10W50 which is Ester based and can withstand heat and abuse a bit more.
@The Bearded Mechanic 60 is too thick. It's not good for the engine imo. Just use what the manufacturer recommends. They take the countries climate into account.
Thank you for your comment. You should check the oil level when the engine is at operating temperature, the oil level should be between the red circle on the view screen. I went for a ride before I checked the level.
I woulnd't use Motul 7100 on a 790 or 890... I would go for a 300v2 or something "100% synth + ester" is what that engine is asking... then we will complain about cam wear and that kind of stufff, but the oil is not the right one !!
Thanks for making this video. I bought one of these bikes last fall a 2020 with 600km on it. I took it home just a day or 2 before the snow came for the season. I’ll have to do an oil change in the spring when the snow is gone. A lot less intimidating now that I’ve seen it done here.
I have the same bike and had the same issue with the bolts haning on for dear life. But i tink the oem intervals for the oilchange is extream should be every 5 k MAX
DUDE! , you just saved me $100 usd the dealer wanted to get the 'wrench' icon off my dash. Much
great video!!! doing my oil change tomorrow!!👍
Love the seat
Thank you!
Thanks mate, just changed mine
The gurgling as the oil drains, it's because you need to remove the fill plug. If you don't, not all the oil comes out and you risk overfilling. I learned that the hard way.
This is true lol
You need atmosphere pressure to push the oil out
I never heard of any “filler plug” before. I always unscrewed the oil fill cap when draining oil on my motorcycles and back in the day when people changed their own oil on their cars. It will accomplish the same thing, allow atmospheric pressure in the engine case as the oil vacates. Why would KTM go to the expense of machining and an extra screw plug?
@@SonriseSunset The place you pour oil in at. The filler plug/cap, whatever you want to call it. Unless you're in the habit of draining your oil and calling it a day without putting oil back in. How is it you say "oil fill cap" and I say "fill plug" and you don't realize we're talking about the same thing.
@@howlinhog my bad, in the video it looked like the fill plug is black plastic. When I looked up fill plug for the 790, pics showed a metal cap so I took it to be something diff. Now that I have discovered that, you can take ur snarky self and shove it where the oil doesn’t shine. Bc who doesn’t release they oil cap when draining their oil.
Thank you, great video!
Omg, I can say this is way easier than my duke 390, the second drain plug in towards the front middle of the engine, the main is on the left, and the oil filter is on the right; it’s a pain in the ass; this loooks soooo much easier , lol.
Ots not really tho is it. Just have to move the oil tray for the oil filter 🤦
Nicely done. I am getting my 890 next week, it has 6000km on the clock so I want to do an Oil change as well. Already have all the parts here but I am curious if you could not re-use those two Filter "things". I mean, they are metal mesh filters which could be washed with break cleaner.......what do you think about that?
Hey, thanks. You can reuse the screen filters after cleaning them with brake cleaner for example. Mine were probably the factory one and I want to be sure it is good. The previous oil change was made in the dealership. So if it is not deformed, metal mesh is not torn or damaged you can reuse them. I would probably change the O-ring on them to be sure they are seal. Good luck with your bike✌🏻🏍
thanks man, I think even an idiot like myself can do this!
That oil looks🔥.Thanks for posting, due for an oil change myself. What kind of seat covers are those? They look great!
Hey, yes the oil was pretty burnt😵💫. We will see how the Motul 7100 works. About the seat: the previos owner custom made it. The only downside is the stitchings, they are not waterproof, so every time I clean the bike or it rains, I need to use some kind of seat cover if I do not want to soak the seat foam. Hope my video helps with your oil change✌🏻
Which oil before used and how many kms
Motorex Power Synth 10W60, 3600 km
That looks so easy to change the air filter
On my bike i’ve got to take the fuel tank off
Thinking of buying one
Are they reliable? Have you had many issues?
Would you recommend?
How often do you need to change the oil?
Hey, it is reliable as far as I know. The known issues are:
-immobilizer
screen front cover (polycarbonate) can crack, it is an appearance issue only
-valve cover gasket leak-got a revisioned gasket so it is not an issue really
-camshaft can wear out around 30k km (~19k miles)
-front shock gasket can leak (mine did, cleaned and it helped)
For the camshaft you can extend the guarantee, for this you should ask the dealer if possible.
The oil change is recommended to change yearly or after every 5000 km (~3000 miles)✌🏻
@@Mr.Bearded.Mechanic okay thanks for the info i’m not too bad
Should you tip the bike a bit to get all the oil out?
If you use the side stand you do not need to tip it. Personally, I would not bother with it for a ~50 ml oil :) If you have leftover oil from the last oil change (~200 ml) you can pour it in while the drain plugs and filter are out. That way you can flush some of the leftover oil. But again, I think it is not necessary.
Thank you for this PERFECT Video!
Maybe moving the bike a little to the left to get all the old oil out.
Older engines could make use of engine flush like "liqui moly 1657".
Alternative Air Filter: K&N KT-7918
Qué tal anduvo después de ese cambio de aceite ?
🍀😎👍👍👍
why not Motul 300V?
Hey, check out my other oil change videos, I tried V300✌🏻
G'day mate,
Quick question, how was your 10w60 experience, did you use it thru the summer or thru winter, am changing my oil now to 10w60, I'll order it this week, the bike gets really bad in traffic mainly because of the weather and the bike temperature as well.
Help me out with your opinion if you dun mind.
Tab.
S Bold
Hi, I use my bike from spring til fall, mainly in town, only at the weekends I go to highway/out of town. 10w60 oil has a slightly higher flash point then 10w50. Now I am using Ester based oil which is the highest grade oil what you can buy (Motul 7100 10W50 4T). In my country summer has max temperature around 43°C (110°F). The reason I asked the KTM service last year for 10W60 is because of summer town traffic but seeing the color of the oil I want to try Motul with the recommended grade.
What you mean "bike gets really bad in traffic"? Overheating issue?
@@Mr.Bearded.Mechanic
Not overheating mainly, it happens when we had peak traffic times in london, but when the temperature of both climate and bike get high, i get very bad shifts as no oil inside whatsoever. Mktm mechanic told me give 10w60 a go, he's me mate and told usually ktm won't tell you this but it's good lubricant all year.
That's why I've asked you how was it with 10w60.
@@SobsSs I see. You can try the 10w60 oil, but personally I did not found difference between shift feel using 10w50 or 10w60. Maybe it was a placebo but I think the engine was noisier with the 10w60. The other thing is the clutch does not have a consistent feeling. Sometimes when I shift into 1st gear slowly, it makes a hard noise and the bike twitch the chain, like I did not pulled the clutch lever enough. But it does with both oil. I adjusted the clutch lever till it has about 2 milimeters of play, and I used now to press hard / quick the shift pedal into 1st gear. I would change the coolant and add Motul moCool additive in it. There is an oil-to-water heat changer on the bike (black box shaped part at the front bottom area) with that you can lower the oil temperature a bit. Radiator has a fan to active cool it, oil does not have a dedicated radiator, hence the heat changer. Hope I was able to answer your question. If the KTM mechanic is your good friend I would listen to him :)
Hi, did you run the engine up to temp before doing the oil and filter change
Hi, if you can handle hot oil then go for it. Additives in the synthetic oil do not let particles settle down easily to the bottom of the pan, so hot oil is in my opinion not needed. I was riding the bike that day before the oil change so it was not completely cooled, but was cool enough to handle (around 40 °C). Next time I will give a try for the Motul 300V 10W50 oil, it is double-ester based.
@@Mr.Bearded.Mechanic Don't use 300V, or any double ester oils intended for "racing use", if you mainly do street riding, they're great for the track as they offer better protection but degrade much faster with regular street use. I found this out the hard way on my Street Triple RS with shifts getting very clunky towards the 2000km mark on 300V, further confirmed by a couple of friends who used the same oil in their street bikes. Stick with 7100, it's the best price / performance wise.
Thank you for the nice Video
Is it reliable? Im planning on getting a new one this month. Im kinda hesitant because of reliability. Thanks.
Hey, I talked to a KTM mechanic, he says that the camshaft can go bad around 30 000 km (19 000 miles) other than that it is reliable. Some has oil leaks around the heat exchanger and at the head cover but those are relatively easy fixes. Bike is amazing, always makes me smile when I ride it
You need to warm up the bike before oil change.
❤
Brilliant ❤, Subbed now thank you!
10w60. Is that what the manual recommends. Damn it's thick
10W50 is what the manual recommends.
@@Mr.Bearded.Mechanic so why is the factory using motorex oil 10w60 as you state in your video?
@@Mr.Bearded.Mechanic what country are you ?👍
@@chriswest2290 I am from Hungary, Europe. I specifically asked the dealer to put 10W60 in it because I use the bike mainly in town (heavy traffic) during the hot summer. It still burned a bit so now I am using Motul 7100 10W50 which is Ester based and can withstand heat and abuse a bit more.
@The Bearded Mechanic 60 is too thick. It's not good for the engine imo. Just use what the manufacturer recommends. They take the countries climate into account.
What windscreen is that?
Ermax nose screen (32 cm) in light black color.
Wait till you do the plugs...Royal pain in the ass. Even with the fuel tank pulled out and ABS pump loosened you will have a great time.
Too much oil. Should be half way on the sight glass.
Thank you for your comment. You should check the oil level when the engine is at operating temperature, the oil level should be between the red circle on the view screen. I went for a ride before I checked the level.
@@Mr.Bearded.Mechanic what torque wrenches are needed for this job?
@@djnipnap for this work you will use 3 Nm, 6 Nm, 10 Nm, and 20 Nm. You can find a 1/4" torque wrench with a 2,5-20 Nm or 2,5-25 Nm range.
His oil level is perfect.
I woulnd't use Motul 7100 on a 790 or 890... I would go for a 300v2 or something "100% synth + ester" is what that engine is asking... then we will complain about cam wear and that kind of stufff, but the oil is not the right one !!