A trick I figured out that makes it go by even faster; when the coolant drops in the vinyl hose, take it and submerge the end in the coolant. It will begin to suck coolant from the funnel back into the port. It will then top itself off, air free in no time.
Extremely helpful video showing exactly where that blead screw is at, as well as showing the bubbles in the reservoir to know what we're looking at when the time comes and the time stamp on the video to show what the expectation is for how long this will take. Can't thank you enough man.
Awesome video!!! A lot of ppl overlook this maintenance and it should be done about every 5 years. The coolant becomes so acidic at around age five on the Super Long Life. Keep up the great work.
My wife has the 2GR-FE in her highlander and I need to do this. Your videos was the best instructional video on this on UA-cam imo. Thanks for sharing.
There’s two engine block drain bolts (10mm) on both banks. You can get almost all the coolant drained that way. It’ll take about 2 1/2 of those bottles to fully fill the system.
Thank you for the video, clean and clear to the point. You want to see that smooth constant flow before you close that valve, great job. Love the extra rags all around to prevent overspill which will happen always.
When I replaced my 2007 Sienna radiator (same engine) at home, I was aware of the air pocket issue , because few months earlier when the dealership changed the water pump and forgot to bleed it, I gave them another visit. So when the radiator replacement day came I decided to do it myself. I jacked up the front of the van way up to prevent the hoses from spelling the coolant ( coolant was relatively new). My neighbor thought I'm dropping down the engine the way the front of the van was jacked up, I told him that's my way to prevent the rear heater core from loosing coolant. So, if you have a rear passenger heat in your van or SUV, most probably you'll have an air pocket after coolant replacement unless you follow the bleeder step shown in this video.
The Car Care Nut “Toyota Coolant Flushing and Bleeding on 2GR-FE” is the first place that I saw this process done. You are very meticulous and super clean, taking care of putting rags around areas that we have coolant leak around them. Love the timer I think showing a real-time timer is a great help to give viewers real time timing of when things happen. Excellent video thank you again.
❤Your video is much easier to follow, with more details but shorter, and more to the point than the one on the same subject made by Car Care Nut who is the highly regarded in the DIY community.❤❤ I commend especially your showing the details without wordy explanation how to connect and disconnect the bleeder screw, including the specific hose along with size and Amazon link for it!❤❤ I wish I had seen your video before I had done the coolant change on my RX 350 to avoid the big coolant mess at the bleeder screw, which seemed to be taken granted by the Car Care Nut, but you cleverly kept that to a minimum and showed how to clean it with a bottle of water.
Nice video, yes I have a 2015 and had the dealer do it the other time as other stuff was being done. This will save some Bucks. They changed my recovery resevoir because i had a bad cap under warranty. Even playing with that they did not bleed it right. One day i found it bone dry so it must have blew out the air and sucked it in. I fiiled it to full cold. Been holding eversince. I read the comments on the heater system and now i know. Knowing is half the battle.
I forgot to ask you…do you have any videos on the 2GRFSE? My wife has a 2017 Lexus IS300 AWD. I’m interested in learning the coolant bleeding process and transmission fluid/transfer case drain and fill. I’ve already drained the differential and replaced the gear oil. Our Lexus dealership drained and refilled the coolant before we bought it but I’d like to learn how this is done. I used this process from this video to bleed our sons 2GRFE and mine as well. Worked great! Keep up the great work. Thank you.
Great video. I have a question for anyone that can answer it: If not properly bled and air pockets form, can this cause the system to overheat (in addition to the heater not pumping out hot air)? I tried this system numerous times and cannot get to the level when it finally rises with solid liquid in the clear tube, the large funnel boils violently and even overflows coolant.
Great video, Thank you. I have a 2014. How much coolant does it use for this Sienna , and do You consider using distilled water to flush it first? Thankyou
Thanks! I believe I used about 1.5-2 gallons of coolant. Personally I don't use distilled water to flush it first, as long as the cooling system is in good health and not neglected. I have used some flush products before only because the customer specifically requested it. I would say though if it was an older car and saw some gunk or rust coming out I would then flush with water.
Did this to my girlfriends 2010 Highlander with 140k miles. It had never been changed. The fluid was slightly pink and rusty brown. I bought 4 gallons and managed to do 3 drain and fills with that. It could probably use a couple more drain and fills. Thanks for the video
How often are you supposed to do a coolant flush. In the past when my AC stopped working they went under the dashboard and replaced out the blower motor. But it went out again and I've never ever had this process done and the truck is 12 years old. So in short my question is how often is this supposed to be done??
I did this on my rx350, rpms at 2,500 for over 45 minutes and I dont think i ever saw the constant coolant flow from the bleeder hose...it burped several times through the hose and the funnel, but never had a constant flow. I figured it was fine since bubbling stopped and i had it on over an hour. Rear heat and front heat felt super hot still, even on idle so i think all the air was out, but I'm not sure.
I have to do this on a RX350. I drained the coolant in order to replace the O rings in the coolant bypass pipe which is located under the lower intake manifold, yeah, real fun job there. I already have the big funnel kit, just need some 1/4 ID clear tubing. Thanks for the video. Question, at what point do you turn the heater on to let coolant circulate through the heater core?
Thanks for the comment! The 2GR-FE engine doesn't have a traditional heater valve, so coolant is circulating through the heater core when heater is off.
Thank you for the video! Worked great for me. I had to run the engine at 2,500 RPM for about 20 minutes before the steady flow started through tube. Not sure if I botched the end of the job; After closing the bleed valve I let the engine run at idle for about 10 minutes with no bubbles in the funnel, I turned off the engine before pulling out the funnel and she sucked another mouth full of coolant with a few bubbles in the funnel.. so I turned the engine back on.. No more bubbles, but wasn't sure if I just re-introduced air into the system with that last gulp it took when I shut off the engine?
So after bleeding and if there are any remaining small air pockets still left in the coolant system, will the engine eventually purge them and then draw the extra coolant from the overflow tank? 🤔
If it's a very small amount of air then IME yes it has a good chance it will purge out. But if there is enough of an air bubble to say cause your heater to not work, then I would run the bleeding procedure.
@@CarsYouCanFix I ran the bleed procedure (2010 Lexus RX350) as per your awesome video. I think all the air is out: after closing the bleed valve the engine was adjusted down to idle for about 20 minutes. I also kept squeezing the upper rad hose to check for any more air pockets -- that works well. Heater works fine at idle. My concern here was, if there was any residual air, that the engine will eventually purge it. Just always been so OCD about our car maintenance -- probably why I never became a pro mechanic 😜
Great video! I'm planning to flush out the system with radiator cleaner before the coolant fill and bleed process. Do you bleed the system with the cleaner/distilled water? or does bleeding only apply once you add new coolant is in the system? Thank you
I did this on my 2015 Avalon, and pretty sure I stopped bleeding too early. I closed the bleeder when the hose went quiet, before the steady stream came up. Should I repeat the procedure from the start?
@@CarsYouCanFix OK I will. I got worried when I saw all the bubbling coming from the radiator and thought it was the start of an overheat/boil situation. In your video, you mentioned that was actually air from the heater core.
The 2016 Highlander changed over to the 2GR-FKS engine. The bleeding procedure is different since they went away with the bleeder valve on this engine.
Great tutoring video. I subscribed. I am going to change coolant in RX350, 2015. Everything in the video is straight forward, but still have a few questions. Have the heater on max hot, it helps you determine if the system is bled of air. If it blows really hot when the engine is idling, you are done bleeding. If it blows hot air when revved up, but cools off when idling, there is still air in the system. You did not mention about waiting until thermostat opens and radiator fan turns on, should the upper and lower radiator hoses be squeezed before starting the engine to speed up the ridding of air process. Does it matter when the coolant reservoir should be filled up: before the filling of radiator or after? Also, 2GR-FE engines have two 10 mm engine block drain plugs. Have you ever tried to drain them and how much extra coolant will come out. I would like to get out as much coolant as possible.
Thanks for subscribing! Reason the heater isn't set to max is this setup is constantly flowing coolant through the heater core, and uses baffles to control the heat to the cabin. If you do the procedure exactly you can rest assured the air will be bled out, when the coolant is coming back up the tube that is when the thermostat is opening. You can squeeze the hoses if you want, not necessary though. I top off the coolant reservoir at the end. I haven't drained the block on this vehicle, I think it would drain another gallon or so of coolant.
@@CarsYouCanFix I was bleeding air for 25 min, and it is still some air is left. Why I know it, because the heat at my normal setting, 23Celsius (73.4 Fahrenheit) blows not warm. To get warm air, I have to set the temperature to 24.5 C (76.1F) or up. I am thinking to bleed air once more without draining the coolant. All procedure will be the same: attach vinyl hose to bleeding valve and Spill Free Funnel, add some coolant to the funnel, open the bleeding valve and rev the engine to 2500 rpm. Their is no need to drain coolant again, and using common sense, I think it would work just the same way as drain and fill. What is your advice. Have you ever burped the coolant air without draining the coolant. Your advice is appreciated.
On this vehicle, coolant is constantly flowing through the heater core. It's not like a conventional setup with a water valve. On those vehicles, you would need to have the heater on.
Yes you would want to drain the reservoir as well. I personally prefer to use the Toyota brand coolant, it's also pretty close in price to aftermarket coolants like Zerex, just don't see a reason to use anything else unless you are in a bind or something.
I did this on my Camry without the hose and the air coming up through the funnel from the car was explosive. Probably lost half a gallon all over the floor/ engine. I was careful not to put too much in either… guess I’ll try it with the hose next time.
You must use the hose my friend. It's the correct procedure. This way you don't waste coolant and it allows the coolant to circulate safely and without incident or mess.
I'm doing this on my 1991 maxima, I have no clue where the bleeder is at, nor do I have a special funnel like that. I'm going to park on a steep hill and try again, lost like 1/4 of a gallon of coolant due to the violent bubbles that occur when the car warms up the thermostat
@car_junkie I just had a similar experience with the explosive bubbling (I was using the pipe etc exactly as in the vid) did you redo yours later? I'm wondering if the explosive bubbling is an indication of another issue
0:22 You are magician! How could you reach this cap? It looks like David Copperfield went through Great Wall of China. I honestly don't understand why to go through all this process if bubbles were keep coming out till you tight up the bleeding valve.
😂 it's easiest to reach from the top, that's how I actually loosened it up first. Then for video purposes, I was just out of frame reaching the drain plug from the bottom.
Hi, I have an Australian built Toyota Aurion with the 2gr-fe V6. Do you need to turn the heater on at any point during the procedure to remove the air pockets from the heater core. Thanks
I have a 2014 Avalon 6 cylinder. with 49,000 miles. I followed your video, but no coolant came up from the bleeder valve. I left the valve open and proceeded anyway. As the engine got hot bubbles were present in the funnel. I continued until no more bubbles occurred. I drove the car and got it up to temperature. The heat coming from the vents was great (hotter than before). The temperature gauge was were it typically is. Any thoughts on what happened? What would I notice if i still had air in the system after the procedure? Than for any light you can shed on what happened.
That's a bit odd since coolant should flow out and match the level of the coolant level in your funnel. Possibly the bleeder valve was clogged, but sounds like you got all the air out anyways!
So, when you drain the system (and refill and bleed the system), do you want the heaters all the way on hot with the fans off so you can get the old coolant to drain out and the new coolant to fill back in? Very helpful video, by the way. Thanks! :)
Thanks for your question! You wouldn't need to do that because system doesn't have a conventional type water/heater valve, coolant is constantly flowing through the heater core and air and flaps direct the airflow for heat or cold.
There will still be a little bit of coolant left in the engine during a drain and fill. You will get more coolant out doing a thermostat or water pump job but you really can't get all the coolant out. Just stay on top of your coolant changes every 4-5 years.
My RAV4 2006 V6, 3.5L has the same engine. But it doesn't have the radiator cap like yours. It has only 1 cap at the reservoir, how do I do this method? Thank you
From my experience with the Rav4, you can just fill the coolant tank with the bleeder valve open. once fluid is level in the tank and fluid comes up the plastic tube attached to the bleeder valve you are good to go. This is due to the higher location of the reservoir tank for air to bubble out easier.
@ngoiloi9174 engine off on the Rav4. Once you do a couple drive cycles where the car gets hot and cold, like after a couple days, just recheck the coolant level and top off if needed.
Also I ended up mixing coolants and now my Sienna is overheating do you recommend I completely drain everything out or just the radiator? And maybe pull a hose off the block and let it drain.
@@anthonysanchez116 I would drain the block also, another comment here says there are 2 10mm drain bolts on the block, one on each side. here is the link for the tubing 1/4" ID Clear Hose: amzn.to/3IRsbgQ
Why didn’t the coolant flow to reservoir instead? Sorry this might be a silly question but i tried in other car, not this engine, but the coolant just flow back to reservoir.
Thanks for the comment! The reservoir on this engine just holds extra coolant for expansion/contraction of the coolant heating up and cooling down. Having the coolant come out of the bleeder valve, then back into the radiator, is sort of like a closed loop system to get all the trapped air out. I hope that makes sense.
What does it mean if nothing is coming up the tube? It's been 30 minutes at 2500rpm and I haven't seen any fluid come up the tube. If I turn off the car, the fluid backs up into the tube, so I know the bleeder is open.
It's great except this method leaves about 1.3 gallons of coolant that did not get flushed out the system. The bleeding method is good though. So basically you replaced 50% of the coolant that was inside the system.
You don't need the heater on, the design isn't conventional with a water valve. Coolant is constantly flowing through the heater core at all times with this setup.
This particular Toyota setup has coolant constantly running through the heater core, and uses baffles to block off the heat. Not like a conventional setup, where coolant doesn't run through the heater core while the heat is set to cool.
Keeping the heater on is a general thing when it comes to bleeding coolant. However, the reason you do it in certain cars is to open the heater valve. The 2GR engine doesn’t have a heater valve so coolant goes through the heater core at all times. Turning on the heater will cause the coolant to take much longer to warm up to open the thermostat
I never got the flow, I closed the bleeder after 60 minutes and let the bubbles subside, then closed off the radiator. No overheating, so must be okay.
If you change it every 5 years/50k miles after the first 5 years/100k miles service, changing only half the capacity is fine. You don't need to clear it all out unless it's way passed due.
Ok, Your Impala most likely would need the heat set to max, don't quote me though. Toyota on this model does it a little different, this procedure is pretty specific to this engine since it can be really tricky to get the air out on this one.
@CarsYouCanFix okay I just would like to use the same procedure on my 2000 mercury sable this time. So I know it's good idea. No other way. I have spill funnel clear tunes in place.
I don't think this is a right method. I would close the bleeder as soon as the coolant starts coming out of it. Then wait for thermostat to open. Closing it while bubbles are still coming defeats the purpose of bleeding....
Sorry but no - how do you make that comment about THIS procedure? It is not substantially different than bleeding coolant in a 1972, 82, 82 engine. Is it possible you just like to complain?
Spill Proof Funnel Kit : amzn.to/43iPWGM
A trick I figured out that makes it go by even faster; when the coolant drops in the vinyl hose, take it and submerge the end in the coolant. It will begin to suck coolant from the funnel back into the port. It will then top itself off, air free in no time.
Extremely helpful video showing exactly where that blead screw is at, as well as showing the bubbles in the reservoir to know what we're looking at when the time comes and the time stamp on the video to show what the expectation is for how long this will take. Can't thank you enough man.
Thanks for your comment! Glad the video was helpful!
Awesome video!!! A lot of ppl overlook this maintenance and it should be done about every 5 years. The coolant becomes so acidic at around age five on the Super Long Life. Keep up the great work.
Thank you! I appreciate your comment!
My wife has the 2GR-FE in her highlander and I need to do this. Your videos was the best instructional video on this on UA-cam imo. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much for your feedback! If any questions come up don't hesitate to ask!
Planning to do this soon to wife's 2016 Highlander with 64,000 miles. Factory coolant hasn't been changed. Thanks for the clear instructions.
Thank you! Hope it goes smoothly for you!
There’s two engine block drain bolts (10mm) on both banks. You can get almost all the coolant drained that way. It’ll take about 2 1/2 of those bottles to fully fill the system.
Thanks for the additional information 👍
Where are those block drain bolts located?
@@ytli5764 just under the exhaust on both banks.
Good to know!
@@CarsYouCanFix did you use 2 Gal of coolant for flushing?
Thank you for the video, clean and clear to the point. You want to see that smooth constant flow before you close that valve, great job. Love the extra rags all around to prevent overspill which will happen always.
Thank you for the comment!
When I replaced my 2007 Sienna radiator (same engine) at home, I was aware of the air pocket issue , because few months earlier when the dealership changed the water pump and forgot to bleed it, I gave them another visit. So when the radiator replacement day came I decided to do it myself. I jacked up the front of the van way up to prevent the hoses from spelling the coolant ( coolant was relatively new). My neighbor thought I'm dropping down the engine the way the front of the van was jacked up, I told him that's my way to prevent the rear heater core from loosing coolant. So, if you have a rear passenger heat in your van or SUV, most probably you'll have an air pocket after coolant replacement unless you follow the bleeder step shown in this video.
The Car Care Nut “Toyota Coolant Flushing and Bleeding on 2GR-FE” is the first place that I saw this process done. You are very meticulous and super clean, taking care of putting rags around areas that we have coolant leak around them. Love the timer I think showing a real-time timer is a great help to give viewers real time timing of when things happen. Excellent video thank you again.
Thanks for your comment!
❤Your video is much easier to follow, with more details but shorter, and more to the point than the one on the same subject made by Car Care Nut who is the highly regarded in the DIY community.❤❤ I commend especially your showing the details without wordy explanation how to connect and disconnect the bleeder screw, including the specific hose along with size and Amazon link for it!❤❤ I wish I had seen your video before I had done the coolant change on my RX 350 to avoid the big coolant mess at the bleeder screw, which seemed to be taken granted by the Car Care Nut, but you cleverly kept that to a minimum and showed how to clean it with a bottle of water.
Thanks for your comment! Glad you found this video was helpful!
Nice video, yes I have a 2015 and had the dealer do it the other time as other stuff was being done. This will save some Bucks. They changed my recovery resevoir because i had a bad cap under warranty. Even playing with that they did not bleed it right. One day i found it bone dry so it must have blew out the air and sucked it in. I fiiled it to full cold. Been holding eversince.
I read the comments on the heater system and now i know. Knowing is half the battle.
What about a 2018 to 2020 Toyota Sienna SE? I see no bleeder valve...
This procedure is only for the 2GR-FE engine.
@@CarsYouCanFix Any info on procedure to do it?
@@CharlesBridgTec You would have to find something related to the 2GR-FKS engine, I have not had the chance to do bleeding procedure on one yet.
@@CarsYouCanFix Ok. Thanks
messaging the large coolant hose brought out a ton more air bubbles for me.
I forgot to ask you…do you have any videos on the 2GRFSE? My wife has a 2017 Lexus IS300 AWD. I’m interested in learning the coolant bleeding process and transmission fluid/transfer case drain and fill. I’ve already drained the differential and replaced the gear oil. Our Lexus dealership drained and refilled the coolant before we bought it but I’d like to learn how this is done. I used this process from this video to bleed our sons 2GRFE and mine as well. Worked great! Keep up the great work. Thank you.
Thank you!! As soon as the opportunity comes up for the 2GR-FSE I will make sure to post a video!
@@CarsYouCanFix thank you.
Great video. I have a question for anyone that can answer it: If not properly bled and air pockets form, can this cause the system to overheat (in addition to the heater not pumping out hot air)? I tried this system numerous times and cannot get to the level when it finally rises with solid liquid in the clear tube, the large funnel boils violently and even overflows coolant.
same, any update?
Great video, Thank you. I have a 2014. How much coolant does it use for this Sienna , and do You consider using distilled water to flush it first? Thankyou
Thanks! I believe I used about 1.5-2 gallons of coolant. Personally I don't use distilled water to flush it first, as long as the cooling system is in good health and not neglected. I have used some flush products before only because the customer specifically requested it. I would say though if it was an older car and saw some gunk or rust coming out I would then flush with water.
Did this to my girlfriends 2010 Highlander with 140k miles. It had never been changed. The fluid was slightly pink and rusty brown. I bought 4 gallons and managed to do 3 drain and fills with that. It could probably use a couple more drain and fills.
Thanks for the video
Glad the video helped you get that ancient coolant taken care of!
How often should you replace the radiator cap. At the same time as you change the fluid?
No set mileage, but gaskets do wear over time. Not a bad idea to change it when you do the fluid.
How often are you supposed to do a coolant flush. In the past when my AC stopped working they went under the dashboard and replaced out the blower motor. But it went out again and I've never ever had this process done and the truck is 12 years old. So in short my question is how often is this supposed to be done??
Coolant flush intervals depend on the manufacturer, but I would recommend replacing the coolant every 4-5 years.
I did this on my rx350, rpms at 2,500 for over 45 minutes and I dont think i ever saw the constant coolant flow from the bleeder hose...it burped several times through the hose and the funnel, but never had a constant flow. I figured it was fine since bubbling stopped and i had it on over an hour. Rear heat and front heat felt super hot still, even on idle so i think all the air was out, but I'm not sure.
At this point I would drive it and get the engine up to temperature, let it cool down overnight, then top off the coolant reservoir if needed.
I have to do this on a RX350. I drained the coolant in order to replace the O rings in the coolant bypass pipe which is located under the lower intake manifold, yeah, real fun job there. I already have the big funnel kit, just need some 1/4 ID clear tubing.
Thanks for the video.
Question, at what point do you turn the heater on to let coolant circulate through the heater core?
Thanks for the comment! The 2GR-FE engine doesn't have a traditional heater valve, so coolant is circulating through the heater core when heater is off.
I just finished up bleeding the air from the system and all good, no leaks!!! Probably saved myself about a grand fixing this issue myself!!! 👍👍👍
Glad to hear everything went well!
Thank you for the video! Worked great for me. I had to run the engine at 2,500 RPM for about 20 minutes before the steady flow started through tube. Not sure if I botched the end of the job; After closing the bleed valve I let the engine run at idle for about 10 minutes with no bubbles in the funnel, I turned off the engine before pulling out the funnel and she sucked another mouth full of coolant with a few bubbles in the funnel.. so I turned the engine back on.. No more bubbles, but wasn't sure if I just re-introduced air into the system with that last gulp it took when I shut off the engine?
Sounds like you should be fine, I doubt any air got trapped in the system. Just keep an eye on the coolant reservoir level for a few days.
So after bleeding and if there are any remaining small air pockets still left in the coolant system, will the engine eventually purge them and then draw the extra coolant from the overflow tank? 🤔
If it's a very small amount of air then IME yes it has a good chance it will purge out. But if there is enough of an air bubble to say cause your heater to not work, then I would run the bleeding procedure.
@@CarsYouCanFix I ran the bleed procedure (2010 Lexus RX350) as per your awesome video. I think all the air is out: after closing the bleed valve the engine was adjusted down to idle for about 20 minutes. I also kept squeezing the upper rad hose to check for any more air pockets -- that works well. Heater works fine at idle.
My concern here was, if there was any residual air, that the engine will eventually purge it.
Just always been so OCD about our car maintenance -- probably why I never became a pro mechanic 😜
Great video! I'm planning to flush out the system with radiator cleaner before the coolant fill and bleed process. Do you bleed the system with the cleaner/distilled water? or does bleeding only apply once you add new coolant is in the system? Thank you
Thanks and good question! Follow this procedure when you are refilling coolant after any repair/flush.
I did this on my 2015 Avalon, and pretty sure I stopped bleeding too early. I closed the bleeder when the hose went quiet, before the steady stream came up. Should I repeat the procedure from the start?
I would recommend doing the bleeding procedure one more time, last thing you need is an air pocket in your engine somewhere.
@@CarsYouCanFix OK I will. I got worried when I saw all the bubbling coming from the radiator and thought it was the start of an overheat/boil situation. In your video, you mentioned that was actually air from the heater core.
2GR FE what is this? Brand of a coolant or engine type?
I have a 2015 Siena XLE FWD.
The 2GR-FE is the engine name/designation. Your 2015 Sienna has the 2GR-FE engine.
@@CarsYouCanFix thank you bro!!!
How many gallons i need after flushing?
@@ETHAN_VR123 2 of the gallons should cover it.
How much coolant did you need? Where did you buy it from?
For the drain and fill I had 2 gallons of coolant on hand, used about 1.5 gallons. You can get them at your local Toyota dealership.
@@CarsYouCanFix thank you!
is there also a bleeder valve of a 2016 Toyota Highlander and the same process how you did on the 2015 Toyota Siena?
The 2016 Highlander changed over to the 2GR-FKS engine. The bleeding procedure is different since they went away with the bleeder valve on this engine.
Great tutoring video. I subscribed. I am going to change coolant in RX350, 2015.
Everything in the video is straight forward, but still have a few questions.
Have the heater on max hot, it helps you determine if the system is bled of air. If it blows really hot when the engine is idling, you are done bleeding. If it blows hot air when revved up, but cools off when idling, there is still air in the system.
You did not mention about waiting until thermostat opens and radiator fan turns on, should the upper and lower radiator hoses be squeezed before starting the engine to speed up the ridding of air process.
Does it matter when the coolant reservoir should be filled up: before the filling of radiator or after?
Also, 2GR-FE engines have two 10 mm engine block drain plugs. Have you ever tried to drain them and how much extra coolant will come out.
I would like to get out as much coolant as possible.
Thanks for subscribing! Reason the heater isn't set to max is this setup is constantly flowing coolant through the heater core, and uses baffles to control the heat to the cabin. If you do the procedure exactly you can rest assured the air will be bled out, when the coolant is coming back up the tube that is when the thermostat is opening. You can squeeze the hoses if you want, not necessary though. I top off the coolant reservoir at the end. I haven't drained the block on this vehicle, I think it would drain another gallon or so of coolant.
@@CarsYouCanFix I was bleeding air for 25 min, and it is still some air is left.
Why I know it, because the heat at my normal setting, 23Celsius (73.4 Fahrenheit) blows not warm.
To get warm air, I have to set the temperature to 24.5 C (76.1F) or up.
I am thinking to bleed air once more without draining the coolant.
All procedure will be the same: attach vinyl hose to bleeding valve and Spill Free Funnel, add some coolant to the funnel, open the bleeding valve and rev the engine to
2500 rpm.
Their is no need to drain coolant again, and using common sense, I think it would work just the same way as drain and fill. What is your advice. Have you ever burped the coolant air without draining the coolant.
Your advice is appreciated.
Other videos suggest to turn on the heater, why you keep it off?
On this vehicle, coolant is constantly flowing through the heater core. It's not like a conventional setup with a water valve. On those vehicles, you would need to have the heater on.
Hi, I have a ‘14 Highlander - do you drain the reservoir before this procedure? Also, do you recommend the aftermarket Toyota coolant? Thank you
Yes you would want to drain the reservoir as well. I personally prefer to use the Toyota brand coolant, it's also pretty close in price to aftermarket coolants like Zerex, just don't see a reason to use anything else unless you are in a bind or something.
I did this on my Camry without the hose and the air coming up through the funnel from the car was explosive. Probably lost half a gallon all over the floor/ engine. I was careful not to put too much in either… guess I’ll try it with the hose next time.
This engine is pretty picky about how it wants the air bleed out. You really have to follow to a T on this procedure.
You must use the hose my friend. It's the correct procedure. This way you don't waste coolant and it allows the coolant to circulate safely and without incident or mess.
I'm doing this on my 1991 maxima, I have no clue where the bleeder is at, nor do I have a special funnel like that. I'm going to park on a steep hill and try again, lost like 1/4 of a gallon of coolant due to the violent bubbles that occur when the car warms up the thermostat
@car_junkie I just had a similar experience with the explosive bubbling (I was using the pipe etc exactly as in the vid) did you redo yours later? I'm wondering if the explosive bubbling is an indication of another issue
0:22 You are magician! How could you reach this cap? It looks like David Copperfield went through Great Wall of China. I honestly don't understand why to go through all this process if bubbles were keep coming out till you tight up the bleeding valve.
😂 it's easiest to reach from the top, that's how I actually loosened it up first. Then for video purposes, I was just out of frame reaching the drain plug from the bottom.
So after just draining the radiator out of the petcock, how much coolant does it take to refill?
It took about 1.5 coolant jugs to refill.
Great information. These Toyota engine suck at bleeding
Hello. @ 04:18. How did the fluid level in the funnel get that high? Did some fluid already flcoke from the tube or did you add more?
The fluid level will rise due to the coolant getting hot, thermal expansion. That's why I only fill to a certain level at first.
I have a 2019 Sienna with a 2GR-FKS motor. Is the procedure the same with all 2GR-xxx variants?
This procedure only applies to the 2GR-FE and the 2GR-FXE engines.
Hi, I have an Australian built Toyota Aurion with the 2gr-fe V6. Do you need to turn the heater on at any point during the procedure to remove the air pockets from the heater core. Thanks
No you do not. Due to the design coolant is constantly flowing through the heater core. As long as you follow the procedure you will be good.
I have a 2014 Avalon 6 cylinder. with 49,000 miles. I followed your video, but no coolant came up from the bleeder valve. I left the valve open and proceeded anyway. As the engine got hot bubbles were present in the funnel. I continued until no more bubbles occurred. I drove the car and got it up to temperature. The heat coming from the vents was great (hotter than before). The temperature gauge was were it typically is. Any thoughts on what happened? What would I notice if i still had air in the system after the procedure? Than for any light you can shed on what happened.
That's a bit odd since coolant should flow out and match the level of the coolant level in your funnel. Possibly the bleeder valve was clogged, but sounds like you got all the air out anyways!
I am confuse... do you leave the heater system off during this whole process??
Correct. This system has coolant constantly flowing through the heater core.
So, when you drain the system (and refill and bleed the system), do you want the heaters all the way on hot with the fans off so you can get the old coolant to drain out and the new coolant to fill back in? Very helpful video, by the way. Thanks! :)
Thanks for your question! You wouldn't need to do that because system doesn't have a conventional type water/heater valve, coolant is constantly flowing through the heater core and air and flaps direct the airflow for heat or cold.
Hi thanks for the video, is there still some coolant liquid didn't get out because of the coolant thermostat valve? or you changed all of it?
There will still be a little bit of coolant left in the engine during a drain and fill. You will get more coolant out doing a thermostat or water pump job but you really can't get all the coolant out. Just stay on top of your coolant changes every 4-5 years.
Does that work same as Toyota Highlander 2018 xle engine just little different
The Highlander had 3 engine options for 2018 but this procedure doesn't apply to any of those engines.
What if I don’t have the big funnel and the plastic tube ? I think I mess it up now it’s spitting the coolant from the reserve
I definitely recommend getting the funnel kit and tube to do this bleeding procedure correctly. I have links to both in the video description area.
@@CarsYouCanFix thank you ! 🫡
One thing is not clear. What to do with the extension reservoir while all the magic happens? Is it opened or closed?
I keep the cap on the reservoir until the very end when topping off.
Great video! Thank you!
My RAV4 2006 V6, 3.5L has the same engine. But it doesn't have the radiator cap like yours. It has only 1 cap at the reservoir, how do I do this method? Thank you
From my experience with the Rav4, you can just fill the coolant tank with the bleeder valve open. once fluid is level in the tank and fluid comes up the plastic tube attached to the bleeder valve you are good to go. This is due to the higher location of the reservoir tank for air to bubble out easier.
@@CarsYouCanFix so you fill the coolant into the reservoir tank while the engine is running or off? Thank you
@ngoiloi9174 engine off on the Rav4. Once you do a couple drive cycles where the car gets hot and cold, like after a couple days, just recheck the coolant level and top off if needed.
@@CarsYouCanFix Thank you.
Does any 1/4 id tubing work or do I need a special kind? Because I don’t want the coolant to melt it
You should be fine with any 1/4 ID clear tubing you find at the hardware stores, I also have a link in the description for tubing that works.
Yeah that would be awesome
Also I ended up mixing coolants and now my Sienna is overheating do you recommend I completely drain everything out or just the radiator? And maybe pull a hose off the block and let it drain.
@@anthonysanchez116 I would drain the block also, another comment here says there are 2 10mm drain bolts on the block, one on each side. here is the link for the tubing 1/4" ID Clear Hose: amzn.to/3IRsbgQ
I did mine outstanding video.
Glad this video was able to help you!
Why didn’t the coolant flow to reservoir instead? Sorry this might be a silly question but i tried in other car, not this engine, but the coolant just flow back to reservoir.
Thanks for the comment! The reservoir on this engine just holds extra coolant for expansion/contraction of the coolant heating up and cooling down. Having the coolant come out of the bleeder valve, then back into the radiator, is sort of like a closed loop system to get all the trapped air out. I hope that makes sense.
Is it the same procedure for a 2019?
It is not, the 2019 Sienna has the 2GR-FKS engine
We’re is it the bleed valve located at on 2004 exp
When I get a chance to do coolant work on that vehicle I'll make sure to make a video!
What does it mean if nothing is coming up the tube? It's been 30 minutes at 2500rpm and I haven't seen any fluid come up the tube.
If I turn off the car, the fluid backs up into the tube, so I know the bleeder is open.
I kind of wonder if you might have a thermostat or water pump issue, causing the coolant not to flow how it's supposed too.
@@CarsYouCanFix would there be any other signs of a thermostat or water pump issue? The temperature gauge is always just below the middle.
What size tubing for the bleeder valve?
1/4" ID Clear Hose: amzn.to/3IRsbgQ
It's great except this method leaves about 1.3 gallons of coolant that did not get flushed out the system. The bleeding method is good though. So basically you replaced 50% of the coolant that was inside the system.
There are some bolts you can remove from the block for a complete drain. Not necessary though if you follow drain and fills on time.
@@CarsYouCanFix Agreed thanks for the video !
How many of those coolant containers did it take? 😀
I believe it took just under 2 containers, close to 1.5
@@CarsYouCanFix Thanks!
Why have heaters off?
Due to the system design there is coolant constantly running through the heater core, making no reason to turn on the heater.
Do u still gt to have heater on without ac? U guys leaves stuff out too.much
You don't need the heater on, the design isn't conventional with a water valve. Coolant is constantly flowing through the heater core at all times with this setup.
Where did you get the funnel from??
Spill Proof Funnel Kit : amzn.to/43iPWGM
I now have my Amazon Affiliate links to tools I use in my videos. Thanks!
Do you need to this for a drain and refill ? The whole process ?
Yes, this bleeding process will be necessary.
I am not able to reach the last step. What is the issue? I don't see coolant flow up to the container in the last step.
If you followed the procedure correctly, possibly an issue with the thermostat.
Don't you want the heater on so the air bubbles are also pushed out of the heater core?
On this setup the coolant is constantly flowing through the heater core at all times.
How many gallons do I need?
Get 2 gallons, I used about 1.5
Why are the heaters set off? Shouldn't the thermostat open up at some point?
The Sienna doesn't have a traditional water control valve for the heater core, coolant is constantly flowing through it.
@@CarsYouCanFix what about a Camry v6 with the 2GR engine? Same thing?
@@FroMan753 as long as it has the 2GR-FE engine
@@CarsYouCanFix Air shouldn’t be on hot or cold right?
@jalmerc24 it doesn't matter hot or cold, just make sure it's off
So i need to buy 3 gallons of coolant? The dealer told me only 1.
I believe I used 1 and a half gallons. I would buy 2 gallons.
Why do you set the heater to off? Don't you want it set to on in order ro get the air out if the heater core too? Maybe I'm not understanding.
This particular Toyota setup has coolant constantly running through the heater core, and uses baffles to block off the heat. Not like a conventional setup, where coolant doesn't run through the heater core while the heat is set to cool.
Keeping the heater on is a general thing when it comes to bleeding coolant.
However, the reason you do it in certain cars is to open the heater valve.
The 2GR engine doesn’t have a heater valve so coolant goes through the heater core at all times. Turning on the heater will cause the coolant to take much longer to warm up to open the thermostat
Good Instructions.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
How does yours take 10 mins , I feel like for me it takes forever
Make sure you have your rpm at a steady 2000- 2500 for the entire procedure.
I never got the flow, I closed the bleeder after 60 minutes and let the bubbles subside, then closed off the radiator. No overheating, so must be okay.
Muy bueno el video, muchas gracias .
Gracias!!
Does anyone know where the bleeder screw is for a 2019 Toyota Highlander 2.7 liter engine? 1AR-FE
That one possibly doesn't have a bleeder screw. Hopefully, a Toyota tech can chime in.
Is it really coolant flush? I believe you just drained part of coolant from the radiator and added some fresh coolant.
If you change it every 5 years/50k miles after the first 5 years/100k miles service, changing only half the capacity is fine. You don't need to clear it all out unless it's way passed due.
I am curious if anyone has tried to vacuum fill the coolant in 2GR-FE. Does that avoid all of this bleeding?
I haven't done a vacuum fill on the 2GR-FE yet, wondering about this as well.
Interesting… where does the vacuum connect?
Awesome job! I plan on doing this on my 2015 Sienna this weekend.
Thank you! Hopefully everything goes smoothly for you!
@@CarsYouCanFix I followed your tutorial to the letter. It was a success. Thank you for your video. All the best!
Awesome! Glad to hear it friend!
I have a impala. Nt sienna.
Ok, Your Impala most likely would need the heat set to max, don't quote me though. Toyota on this model does it a little different, this procedure is pretty specific to this engine since it can be really tricky to get the air out on this one.
@CarsYouCanFix okay I just would like to use the same procedure on my 2000 mercury sable this time. So I know it's good idea. No other way. I have spill funnel clear tunes in place.
@CarsYouCanFix so would it matter put regular hear on max without ac. I ways made good practice and r u mechanic
If the car does have a heater valve I would set heat to max.
@CarsYouCanFix I'm do that a
Justin case because I just don't if has one or no thanks same for 2002 impala 3800 v6. As fir the 2000 mercury sable
Dude …, where the tell is the plug ??
Do you mean the drain plug? If so it's at the very bottom under the radiator, sometimes hard to visually see with the plastic splash pan in the way.
No flush instructions included
🤔
This is not a flush, it is partial drain and fill.
🫡
I don't think this is a right method. I would close the bleeder as soon as the coolant starts coming out of it. Then wait for thermostat to open. Closing it while bubbles are still coming defeats the purpose of bleeding....
This is the correct procedure for the 2GR-FE engines, a little funky, but it's correct.
Pain in as….s todays car
It's give and take, but yes you are right!
Sorry but no - how do you make that comment about THIS procedure? It is not substantially different than bleeding coolant in a 1972, 82, 82 engine. Is it possible you just like to complain?
@@williamfrench9973 shut up
Great video. Thanks!