My wife has a 2016 Nissan Rogue with 106k miles. Just the other day, she calls me to say that her driver window won’t roll up. I told her to park in the garage and that I’ll look at it when I get home. Go to the car and “wife complaint confirmed”. Logically, I was thinking bad window switch or window motor. I decided to do a simple google search which led me to a video with the same vehicle / issue which turned out to be a broken power wire to the driver window switch at the rubber flex tube in the door jamb. Wouldn’t you know it, that was the exact issue - I even used a pick for the “money shot” I as Eric O. would have done. I also found the rubber shielding of the canbus wires to be damaged. I fished 3 new wires through the flex tube using a zip tie and electrical tape and patched them in - problem solved. I believe that watching you, Ivan, and Eric’s videos Have greatly increased my diagnostic and repair abilities and I’m grateful for what you guys do. As far as Nissan goes… do better.
I love that you use a test light with your meter! I have a lot of test lights and use them from time to time, but I have always had CYA drilled into me. So I use meter more often so I have actual numbers to record.
I wish you do video how to do those light bulbs testers and how to use them for different circuits. Thank you for that a little information appreciated it
Jake, that was funny, I like your review of the Load Pro and what to do with it, " throw it in the garbage". I won't be buying any low pros. Thanks for letting us know how you made your own test lights etc. That was an interesting electrical diagnosis. Thanks for giving us a good step by step procedure. Hope you are able to give us a final report on the four actuators. Good job, thanks.
I have a few load pro leads because a fleet I used to work for would order them for us . They do what the claim to do but a little bulky to use for everyday leads .
Thanks for a good video. When I saw the load pro it reminded me discussion bout 6-7 years ago with matt from schrodingers box. I have had the same view as you. Its bulky, no visiual indication. and a bulb is really simple. And I never did buy it. But I want to add the concept Loadpro wanted to show is true. No current flow = no voltage drop. I did buy Dans (the inventor) field manual and it was really good. I think Load pro was some proof of concept and ended really sad. And havent heard anything new from him. Take care guys.
I've been looking for a video like this for months, didn't realize when it was uploaded until I saw the comments were less than 2hrs ago. Having this problem on a 2010
Hey great content as usual. Just a little input. I noticed if you put hazard lights on, especially on nissans and infinitys. It will keep the car alive and won't turn itself off or go to sleep. Obviously always have your maintainer or charger attached.
Great diagnosis again, thank you for explaining the lights. Ordering some now. As a side, I had an Equinox where all door locks were failing at the same time. Makes sense since they're all the same age.
Jake this is definitely a strange Nissan problem. Oh it’s a Nissan ! Lol. I see the new work van is following you around. How is it working out ? I also have the load pro purchased when it first came out and I cringe every time I open that draw . Tuesday is garbage day bye bye !! Hope you had a good SEMA trip ? Thanks for sharing . Now to your store. 👍 Artie. PS Jake I just my Black Friday toys from your store. 😊
I like the idea of a 194 bulb on the leads with the banana jack adaptors, I appreciate the time you took to add a link to amazon for them. I have been using the load pro for a lot of stuff over the years and it has its place but it’s selective where you utilize them.
With the loadpro in every scenario it can be used, you could use a test light. But not every scenario you can use a test light you can’t use a loadpro.
I have made some test lights from light sockets off of a junk car we have out in the field. I prefer those over anything electrical Dorman. I have also used those banana jacks that you have listed in your store and have had several crack with minimal use. I just put some liquid electrical tape on the cracks because I didn't feel like making new ones. As far as the Load Pro goes, it wasn't made to back probe connectors. It was made to front probe them with the connectors disconnected. Lisle came out with a test light a couple of years ago that has a digital display with red and green LED lights and also a button to put an 800 mA load on the circuit. I guess it's their version of the Load Pro with a couple of additional features. Nice diag by the way.
Yes the Lisle tester is actually a tool I use a lot when checking fuses. As for the loadpro being made to front probe connectors, yes I’m aware but in the reality that is a design failure as well. When do you see male terminal ends the use that concaved tip to help steady it on the male terminal? Here in the US I don’t think I’ve ever seen a male terminal connector at a device. They are only used on inline connectors and usually the power flow direction is designed to be hot on the female side and not the male side.
@@autodiagyt That is true about the male terminal connectors at the device. That is probably why they make a piece to screw on the end of the Load Pro to attach back probing pins and other accessories. No doubt that various test lights are more effective to load the circuit with compared to the load Pro.
Interesting (weird) case and a great diagnostic, Jake! If the passenger door actuator didn't start working, I would have said that the BCM expects some sensing from the driver's door, to actuate the other doors. But it could be that the car was parked for a long time and the actuators got stuck and that short pulse from the BCM is not enough to make them move - maybe forcing them with a test lamp directly, can wake them up (BCM disconnected, of course 🙂).
They do have adapters to back probe with the load pro. I had one, but like you said, it has no visual indicator to let you know it's working. Mine was working one day and stopped the next, sent me down the wrong path till I checked the load pro and found it was broken.
I have a 19 Camry with three bad actuators, 12v at all lock unlock wires behind the door panels, you can unplug the actuators one by one to see if one is shorting out the system but typically the vehicle comes back soon after with another actuator inop.
Meh - I’m just a DIY’er, but the Loadpro works just fine for me. Tip is his concave “steady tip” design, not made for backprobing. Far, far more important is knowing when & how to use it and what it is telling you. Which has astonished me watching channels like this, South Main, Super Mario, Realfixes realfast, Royal Auto, Bernie Thompson, etc. when they all solve issues from other shops that turn out to be just basic electrical problems. Because of that, as a consumer I’d be more worried seeing someone with a Power Probe in their hands than Loadpro. Cheers.
I know with fords it’s not about battery voltage. It’s about the vehicles battery calculated state of charge and how much current is leaving the current sensor. Going to assume others manufactures a similar. This would mean putting the charger negative cable directly on the battery negative post will bypass the current sensor. The vehicle would only see current leaving the battery and not see it being charged. Using a jump post or chassis grounding point will be the best method to hook up a power supply so the current sensor could see the current entering the battery.
Awesome video bro. But ultimate user fail on the Load Pro! You really couldn't find a way to help you pin out a curcuit??? I recommend it. It had helped me out tremendously! And you really can't compare a Load Pro to lightbulbs. Two different tools.
Definitely not user fail. There is no test the loadpro can do that a test light can’t do but there is several situations where a test light can be used and a loadpro cannot. The major failure point of the loadpro is having no indication that it is actually doing anything. That button could stop working and you may never know if you don’t test it.
@@autodiagyt The button could stop working.... well, I guess anything is possible during auto diagnostic testing, but I've had my loadpro for years and nothing like that has happened. It's just another tool in the toolbox and you can't expect one tool to do everything. Thanks again for the awesome videos bro!
@@usrpro6755It's a load of pro garbage. And the creator is a douche who used to bully and troll those who called out its flaws. Until he got sued iirc.
Like you, I'm skeptical about all 4 locks being bad unless water got down past the door window seals and went into the locks. It could also be that the original locks were upgraded later for better protection and operation. I see where you got the light bulb sockets from, but what about the ends that plug into the meter? Good diagnostics Jake.
The battery jump is bypassing a current sensor. The system sees current flow but nothing sourced from the alternator. Not sure where a necessary source input connection would be. (maybe?) ; )
I’ve tried connecting several different ways and have yet to find something that works. Sometimes you can ground the maintainer to the engine or chassis so the current sensor sees current flowing in the battery and keeps it from turning off and then other times it does work. Sometimes unplugged the current sensor disables it and other times it doesn’t. It’s just a frustrating thing. Like add a line of code to that algorithm that just says if the battery voltage is >13v disable the battery saver mode.
sir, have u ever found a comparable U test kit beside the one from AES Wave that is $300. I get the point about getting quality tools but I just do this as a hobby because I am retired. Thanks
Well the answer is not that I’m aware off. Mr. Subaru did a video a while back about some cheaper kit and then got an aeswave kit and said it was much better. You might can find his videos about it and see if the cheaper kit would work for you. The majority of the leads I use are all the smaller ones like the micro 64 but it really depends on what vehicles you are working on. There is no kit out there that has everything that you would ever need and most will have a lot that you’ll never use but as a professional this kit was designed but real professionals and not some China company that put terminals in there they think works.
Nissan tech here. When the door don't lock it's the door lock actuators, when the windows don't go up n down it's the switch. The door actuator motors are known to fail.
You would think, but not necessarily. 2016 Rogue… driver window would not go back up. Throwing a switch at it would have done nothing. Broken power wire to the driver window switch at the door jamb rubber flex boot. Appears to be a common issue with 2nd gen Rogues.
Fun one Jake! Nissan door lock circuits are a backasswards, reverse intuitive, ground side controlled piggyback circuits. Combine that with touch sensitive door open buttons... (OH and with LEFT hand drive schematics on a US version!) I was almost ready to throw a match when I realized the driver's side and right side being the same, was an issue!
The key is the service information for this diag. Using the bulbs as a small load is better than using a fix resistance. These new nissan vehicles are really problematic. I'm diagnosing one as we speak. Crank No Start on a Nissan Hybrid E13.
I literally find issues where bodyshops place the door from a used salvage yard to a car without replacing the salvage with its original wiring harness, nissans have 3 different wiring harnesses. The driver door plays a major role by supplying a voltage to other doors. With power pins are misplaced other doors won't get power or supporting grounds.
It's a pretty solid workhorse. For the average diagnostic tech it's probably all you'd ever need but no one scan tool does everything so it's rare but I do find things missing from time to time. I just send in a feedback and move on.
Well, different circuit, however, they all lock and unlock at the same time. Just like headlights, usually burn out same time because when you turn them on, they both come on at same time… but i still think its sort of unusual
30:55 - four bad doorlock actuators?!? I'm guessing there's actually something wrong with the driver door and the BCM is not activating the rears. You actually proved that the passenger door lock works, I would guess that, at that time, the rear locks are working also? My bet is that a driver door teardown will find the problem.
@autodiagyt No, I'm thinking about something that will give me time to diagnose a No Start with a completely dead battery. I do mobile auto electrical. You know how customers love to give you a car with a completely dead battery.
I've seen wires break in drivers side door hinge wire loom, quite often, maybe this is your issue 🤔 pretty common especially since the passenger side door tries to work, when door was open, but not when shut. Check the harness where the door hinge is!!
temperature has dropped for sure over here mate . 5 to 7 degrees next week 🥶 . i guess you don’t like that tool 🤣🤣🤣🤣 to be fair i use test bulbs have done for many years . but as a nipper i learnt the hard way always make sure that bulb is away from interior stuff 🤣🤣🤣 or they may be a thermal incident . common sense really but when your in the groove it’s easy to forget or the bulb slips 😱😱😱 now me h7 i have a cap off a aresol can drilled a hole for the. bulb because that puppy takes no prisoners
You should try replacing the drivers door actuator first ,the master motors have a micro switch in them to tell the bcm if its locked or unlocked by switching ground
load pro is correct - it's a professional load of crap. now see if i was there i'd dumpster dive to cut the leads off lol. they might be usable for something. that's also why i cant find anything. too many I'll do that or use that later
It's crazy that the major UA-cam techs hate on the load pro without coming up with a solution for the shortcomings of the tool and design a better one. Dan Sullivan designed the tip to be like that so that wires don't get poked which is a big mistake b/c we're gonna poke wires sometimes regardless. I bought his book which was bundle with the load pro but the tool is too cumbersome for me to use it, so it's been sitting somewhere for years.
My issue with the tool is clearly shown but the to fix the tool to be usable would just be replacing it with test lights. I see no realistic use for the tool.
I agree that tool is not the best but shitting on it makes you look lame to me. It is like when hollywood adds a gay scene to a movie when they didn't need to. Your video was great. Didn't need to even add that part to the video. It was gay to add that
It might be for you but I often get comments about how a loadpro does what I show with a test light and in my opinion it was a half assed tool put out in the market and technicians trying to learn don’t understand how the tool can mislead them and I bet there isn’t many videos out there that show the short comings of the tool. So for you that information might seem pointless to include in the video but it’s definitely not pointless and who knows maybe they will see this video and pull the tool off the market and fix it because it’s a broken design.
I don't see the need for loadpro or power probe I can save 200+ $ and use it to make test lights and practice and be proficient and buy test leads and test kits
Well if you were sponsored by them you aren't anymore! LOL. Definately doesn't look that usefull. If it had a built in light and the tip was banana jack compatible it would probably be useful at least to some extent.
My wife has a 2016 Nissan Rogue with 106k miles. Just the other day, she calls me to say that her driver window won’t roll up. I told her to park in the garage and that I’ll look at it when I get home. Go to the car and “wife complaint confirmed”. Logically, I was thinking bad window switch or window motor. I decided to do a simple google search which led me to a video with the same vehicle / issue which turned out to be a broken power wire to the driver window switch at the rubber flex tube in the door jamb. Wouldn’t you know it, that was the exact issue - I even used a pick for the “money shot” I as Eric O. would have done. I also found the rubber shielding of the canbus wires to be damaged. I fished 3 new wires through the flex tube using a zip tie and electrical tape and patched them in - problem solved. I believe that watching you, Ivan, and Eric’s videos
Have greatly increased my diagnostic and repair abilities and I’m grateful for what you guys do. As far as Nissan goes… do better.
Wow very cool diagnostic sir
I Frome india but live in Saudi Arabia i allways watch your videos i am automotive diagnostician ❤
I love that you use a test light with your meter! I have a lot of test lights and use them from time to time, but I have always had CYA drilled into me. So I use meter more often so I have actual numbers to record.
Yup chilly out here too but this tutorial is keeping the fire 🔥 of learning stoked !!
Thanks mate .
👊🏼 🏹 🎯
I’ll be getting supplies out of your Amazon list and stepping up my diag with test lights. Thanks for being so thorough about everything
I wish you do video how to do those light bulbs testers and how to use them for different circuits. Thank you for that a little information appreciated it
Jake, that was funny, I like your review of the Load Pro and what to do with it, " throw it in the garbage". I won't be buying any low pros.
Thanks for letting us know how you made your own test lights etc.
That was an interesting electrical diagnosis. Thanks for giving us a good step by step procedure. Hope you are able to give us a final report on the four actuators.
Good job, thanks.
Big ups to the man Jake!
I have a few load pro leads because a fleet I used to work for would order them for us . They do what the claim to do but a little bulky to use for everyday leads .
Thanks for a good video. When I saw the load pro it reminded me discussion bout 6-7 years ago with matt from schrodingers box. I have had the same view as you. Its bulky, no visiual indication. and a bulb is really simple. And I never did buy it. But I want to add the concept Loadpro wanted to show is true. No current flow = no voltage drop. I did buy Dans (the inventor) field manual and it was really good. I think Load pro was some proof of concept and ended really sad. And havent heard anything new from him. Take care guys.
Another excellent video. True professional.
The automotive electronics training manual that Dan Sullivan sells with the load pro is a very good training manual. Written for more of a lay person.
Yep, I think it was geared towards open circuit testing on big trucks. Even still, it doesn't adequately load a many circuits in a meaningful way
I've been looking for a video like this for months, didn't realize when it was uploaded until I saw the comments were less than 2hrs ago.
Having this problem on a 2010
Hey great content as usual. Just a little input. I noticed if you put hazard lights on, especially on nissans and infinitys. It will keep the car alive and won't turn itself off or go to sleep. Obviously always have your maintainer or charger attached.
Thanks for sharing this troubleshooting adventure and testing procedure / tools. Hope you can post an update video or post the solution here?
Great diagnosis again, thank you for explaining the lights. Ordering some now. As a side, I had an Equinox where all door locks were failing at the same time. Makes sense since they're all the same age.
2:38 switch hazard lights on that will stop it going to "sleep"
Jake this is definitely a strange Nissan problem. Oh it’s a Nissan ! Lol. I see the new work van is following you around. How is it working out ? I also have the load pro purchased when it first came out and I cringe every time I open that draw . Tuesday is garbage day bye bye !! Hope you had a good SEMA trip ? Thanks for sharing . Now to your store. 👍 Artie. PS Jake I just my Black Friday toys from your store. 😊
Van is gonna take a little bit to get on the road I’m hoping to get started on some of it today.
Me in New Zealand... coming up to summer !!
I see it all the time on flood cars...
Nice video and diagnosis.
Load Probe not a sponsor. 🤣🤣
You should have asked Siri what the problem was on the door locks.
I like the idea of a 194 bulb on the leads with the banana jack adaptors, I appreciate the time you took to add a link to amazon for them. I have been using the load pro for a lot of stuff over the years and it has its place but it’s selective where you utilize them.
With the loadpro in every scenario it can be used, you could use a test light. But not every scenario you can use a test light you can’t use a loadpro.
I bought a 10 pack of the meter ends to fix the ends on my Pico leads, now I found a use for the rest of them.
1:51 - scan reveals no codes (Topdon Phoenix Smart)
3:28 - lock / unlock switch test, BCM response
6:00 - wiring diagram
12:00 - testing BCM power input
16:14 - load testing meter adapter
18:20 - parts for bulb load test adapter
19:20 - testing the BCM outputs
22:36 - testing the BCM grounds
28:50 - passenger door works with bulb load and driver door closed?
I have made some test lights from light sockets off of a junk car we have out in the field. I prefer those over anything electrical Dorman. I have also used those banana jacks that you have listed in your store and have had several crack with minimal use. I just put some liquid electrical tape on the cracks because I didn't feel like making new ones.
As far as the Load Pro goes, it wasn't made to back probe connectors. It was made to front probe them with the connectors disconnected. Lisle came out with a test light a couple of years ago that has a digital display with red and green LED lights and also a button to put an 800 mA load on the circuit. I guess it's their version of the Load Pro with a couple of additional features.
Nice diag by the way.
Yes the Lisle tester is actually a tool I use a lot when checking fuses. As for the loadpro being made to front probe connectors, yes I’m aware but in the reality that is a design failure as well. When do you see male terminal ends the use that concaved tip to help steady it on the male terminal? Here in the US I don’t think I’ve ever seen a male terminal connector at a device. They are only used on inline connectors and usually the power flow direction is designed to be hot on the female side and not the male side.
@@autodiagyt That is true about the male terminal connectors at the device. That is probably why they make a piece to screw on the end of the Load Pro to attach back probing pins and other accessories. No doubt that various test lights are more effective to load the circuit with compared to the load Pro.
Thanks Jake WOW all door actuators'👨🔧 👍👍👍
The guy who devoloped the Load Pro worked on trucks and rigs i think so it was great for that a good few years ago.
Good job! Like the idea with the light setup. Will steal it... thanks 🤘
Interesting (weird) case and a great diagnostic, Jake! If the passenger door actuator didn't start working, I would have said that the BCM expects some sensing from the driver's door, to actuate the other doors. But it could be that the car was parked for a long time and the actuators got stuck and that short pulse from the BCM is not enough to make them move - maybe forcing them with a test lamp directly, can wake them up (BCM disconnected, of course 🙂).
They do have adapters to back probe with the load pro. I had one, but like you said, it has no visual indicator to let you know it's working. Mine was working one day and stopped the next, sent me down the wrong path till I checked the load pro and found it was broken.
That button could stop working at any moment and you might never realize it.
@@autodiagytyup just another reason a test light is VASTLY superior to the giant cucumber 😂
Great video
I work at a nissan dealership. these are common problems 4 actuators all at once not un common good diagnosis
@@johnhill3644 wow lol
I have a 19 Camry with three bad actuators, 12v at all lock unlock wires behind the door panels, you can unplug the actuators one by one to see if one is shorting out the system but typically the vehicle comes back soon after with another actuator inop.
Used to be commonplace on VW too. Multiple door lock actuators. Same with ABS speed sensors
I haven't used that loadpro tool lol, paid a lot of cash and has not made me any money yet. I just use light bulbs for testing voltage drop.
Atleast I bought it knowing I was wasting my money. Most people that buy it think it’s gonna help them make money.
Meh - I’m just a DIY’er, but the Loadpro works just fine for me. Tip is his concave “steady tip” design, not made for backprobing. Far, far more important is knowing when & how to use it and what it is telling you. Which has astonished me watching channels like this, South Main, Super Mario, Realfixes realfast, Royal Auto, Bernie Thompson, etc. when they all solve issues from other shops that turn out to be just basic electrical problems. Because of that, as a consumer I’d be more worried seeing someone with a Power Probe in their hands than Loadpro. Cheers.
Yeah that "steady tip" is meant for front probing male pins which is pretty rare to be front probing male pins for power.
I like my load pro
Some people do I just don’t understand why
Everyday learn something thanks
I know with fords it’s not about battery voltage. It’s about the vehicles battery calculated state of charge and how much current is leaving the current sensor. Going to assume others manufactures a similar. This would mean putting the charger negative cable directly on the battery negative post will bypass the current sensor. The vehicle would only see current leaving the battery and not see it being charged. Using a jump post or chassis grounding point will be the best method to hook up a power supply so the current sensor could see the current entering the battery.
Fords I usually can get by with unplugged the current sensor.
Awesome video bro. But ultimate user fail on the Load Pro! You really couldn't find a way to help you pin out a curcuit??? I recommend it. It had helped me out tremendously! And you really can't compare a Load Pro to lightbulbs. Two different tools.
Definitely not user fail. There is no test the loadpro can do that a test light can’t do but there is several situations where a test light can be used and a loadpro cannot. The major failure point of the loadpro is having no indication that it is actually doing anything. That button could stop working and you may never know if you don’t test it.
@@autodiagyt The button could stop working.... well, I guess anything is possible during auto diagnostic testing, but I've had my loadpro for years and nothing like that has happened. It's just another tool in the toolbox and you can't expect one tool to do everything. Thanks again for the awesome videos bro!
@@usrpro6755It's a load of pro garbage. And the creator is a douche who used to bully and troll those who called out its flaws. Until he got sued iirc.
Like you, I'm skeptical about all 4 locks being bad unless water got down past the door window seals and went into the locks. It could also be that the original locks were upgraded later for better protection and operation.
I see where you got the light bulb sockets from, but what about the ends that plug into the meter?
Good diagnostics Jake.
The ends that go in the meter are just banana jacks. Everything is on my amazon store link in the electrical testing section
I worked at Nissan and have seen this before.
3 door lock actuators LF,LR,RR then a month later RF.
I've got a load pro taking up room in my toolbox as well. Maybe used it once. Better to use a bulb.
The battery jump is bypassing a current sensor. The system sees current flow but nothing sourced from the alternator. Not sure where a necessary source input connection would be. (maybe?) ; )
I’ve tried connecting several different ways and have yet to find something that works. Sometimes you can ground the maintainer to the engine or chassis so the current sensor sees current flowing in the battery and keeps it from turning off and then other times it does work. Sometimes unplugged the current sensor disables it and other times it doesn’t. It’s just a frustrating thing. Like add a line of code to that algorithm that just says if the battery voltage is >13v disable the battery saver mode.
sir, have u ever found a comparable U test kit beside the one from AES Wave that is $300. I get the point about getting quality tools but I just do this as a hobby because I am retired. Thanks
Well the answer is not that I’m aware off. Mr. Subaru did a video a while back about some cheaper kit and then got an aeswave kit and said it was much better. You might can find his videos about it and see if the cheaper kit would work for you. The majority of the leads I use are all the smaller ones like the micro 64 but it really depends on what vehicles you are working on. There is no kit out there that has everything that you would ever need and most will have a lot that you’ll never use but as a professional this kit was designed but real professionals and not some China company that put terminals in there they think works.
Nissan tech here. When the door don't lock it's the door lock actuators, when the windows don't go up n down it's the switch. The door actuator motors are known to fail.
You would think, but not necessarily. 2016 Rogue… driver window would not go back up. Throwing a switch at it would have done nothing. Broken power wire to the driver window switch at the door jamb rubber flex boot. Appears to be a common issue with 2nd gen Rogues.
Of course we do our testing we don't just throw parts at it. Just pointing out the command issues.
Thank you sir. You suggest the clamp on bananna jacks over solder type?
I solder them in. The wires eventually will break but the set screw will also just cut the wires
Fun one Jake! Nissan door lock circuits are a backasswards, reverse intuitive, ground side controlled piggyback circuits. Combine that with touch sensitive door open buttons... (OH and with LEFT hand drive schematics on a US version!) I was almost ready to throw a match when I realized the driver's side and right side being the same, was an issue!
Btw...just the passenger door actuator has the master ground switch FOR that circuit in the BCM.
I have the load pro for a while now. And I may have to agree with you with your points. But in the garbage Jake.lol😅
Yeah I don't see how that tool made it to market honestly.
The key is the service information for this diag. Using the bulbs as a small load is better than using a fix resistance. These new nissan vehicles are really problematic. I'm diagnosing one as we speak. Crank No Start on a Nissan Hybrid E13.
I literally find issues where bodyshops place the door from a used salvage yard to a car without replacing the salvage with its original wiring harness, nissans have 3 different wiring harnesses. The driver door plays a major role by supplying a voltage to other doors. With power pins are misplaced other doors won't get power or supporting grounds.
How do you like the Phoenix Smart? Would you upgrade to a different scanner?
It's a pretty solid workhorse. For the average diagnostic tech it's probably all you'd ever need but no one scan tool does everything so it's rare but I do find things missing from time to time. I just send in a feedback and move on.
@ thank you for the reply
Well, different circuit, however, they all lock and unlock at the same time. Just like headlights, usually burn out same time because when you turn them on, they both come on at same time… but i still think its sort of unusual
Thanks Jake. Care to speculate how all four actuators could have blown - at the same time? Baffles me.
Idk lol. A few Nissan guys said it’s actually pretty common
Nissan quality has been on the 👇
Was going to unsubscribe as soon as I saw the LOADPRO in the thumbnail... But then was massively relieved when you threw that POS in the garbage 😆😂😆👌
🤣🤣🤣
Ivan I remember you liking it long ago 😉
@@sheerwillsurvival2064 Eric O and I tried using it as a wheel chock years ago... Wasn't even good for that 😂
@ lol that’s so wrong 😂
ua-cam.com/video/bxkKjSpLnYU/v-deo.htmlsi=MD5rHFLMDKxAoSdv has small clip in here LOADPRO
30:55 - four bad doorlock actuators?!? I'm guessing there's actually something wrong with the driver door and the BCM is not activating the rears. You actually proved that the passenger door lock works, I would guess that, at that time, the rear locks are working also? My bet is that a driver door teardown will find the problem.
I saw this on about a 05 silverado before. The actuators back then were a capital investment. That pickup tripled in value since then so go figure.
Great video as always ! BTW no Amazon link on this video
Oh damn I did forget to paste that lol
Fixed lol
Do you have any recommendations for a good battery jump pack at the $200 price range? I'm looking at the Schumacher dsr165
Like to just jump off weak car batteries? I've been using the Topdon JS2000 for about 3 years now and it's been serving me well.
@autodiagyt No, I'm thinking about something that will give me time to diagnose a No Start with a completely dead battery. I do mobile auto electrical. You know how customers love to give you a car with a completely dead battery.
@ oh mobile I just use jumper cables and my van lol
@ I also charge a dead battery fee unless I’m coming to diagnose a battery related issue.
@@autodiagyt Ok. Thanks
Hi what software did you use to test the car
The scantool? It’s a TOODON Phoenix Smart
I have replaced a bunch for the door lock assembly . On every door
Wow! Maybe it is common but it’s a first for me.
your are amazing
I am same where in Africa do you know that you have alot of fans in Africa！！
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Lets see a tool box tour on you van
I already did that like 2 weeks ago lol
Nice! 👍 going to find that one now
on nissan if you hit the hazard button with key on the car will stay awake for service. will not shut off on you
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I've seen wires break in drivers side door hinge wire loom, quite often, maybe this is your issue 🤔 pretty common especially since the passenger side door tries to work, when door was open, but not when shut. Check the harness where the door hinge is!!
That is why I checked the circuit at the latch connector.
The loadpro is pure garbage. Dan used to stalk and troll any of us who called it the trash it is 😂.
Top o' the morning.
Probably this is a 24 ohm resistor of 10w. this will simulate a 0.5 amps
temperature has dropped for sure over here mate . 5 to 7 degrees next week 🥶 . i guess you don’t like that tool 🤣🤣🤣🤣 to be fair i use test bulbs have done for many years . but as a nipper i learnt the hard way always make sure that bulb is away from interior stuff 🤣🤣🤣 or they may be a thermal incident . common sense really but when your in the groove it’s easy to forget or the bulb slips 😱😱😱 now me h7 i have a cap off a aresol can drilled a hole for the. bulb because that puppy takes no prisoners
So was this a tool review video or a fix video
It's a Diagnostic video.
Very common issue
Is it really? I think this was the first time I’ve ever seen a Nissan door lock not work.
Chilly ???….80 degrees here in Florida !!
I’ll be moving down there from ohio soon.
It’s was in the 40s when I recorded this the other day.
5:47 transmission is out that's the reason lock don't work 😂🤓
I wonder if that car needs a battery~
I wonder if they still get batteries from Johnson Supply~
...they just don't make 'em like they used to~
No the battery is completely fine.
'n I thought it wasa Mazda so...
After researching for 40 minutes I feel dumber than I was before!!! ...needa 'nother bowl, ofcourse~
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You should try replacing the drivers door actuator first ,the master motors have a micro switch in them to tell the bcm if its locked or unlocked by switching ground
It is still attempt to lock all the doors regardless of the position the door lock is it’s. This was proven with the test light at the bcm.
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it looked like you threw away one of your test lights.
Yeah it got tangled with the wires lol
Keith Dafazio uses the load pro as wheel shock.
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load pro is correct - it's a professional load of crap. now see if i was there i'd dumpster dive to cut the leads off lol. they might be usable for something. that's also why i cant find anything. too many I'll do that or use that later
It's crazy that the major UA-cam techs hate on the load pro without coming up with a solution for the shortcomings of the tool and design a better one. Dan Sullivan designed the tip to be like that so that wires don't get poked which is a big mistake b/c we're gonna poke wires sometimes regardless. I bought his book which was bundle with the load pro but the tool is too cumbersome for me to use it, so it's been sitting somewhere for years.
My issue with the tool is clearly shown but the to fix the tool to be usable would just be replacing it with test lights. I see no realistic use for the tool.
I agree that tool is not the best but shitting on it makes you look lame to me. It is like when hollywood adds a gay scene to a movie when they didn't need to. Your video was great. Didn't need to even add that part to the video. It was gay to add that
It might be for you but I often get comments about how a loadpro does what I show with a test light and in my opinion it was a half assed tool put out in the market and technicians trying to learn don’t understand how the tool can mislead them and I bet there isn’t many videos out there that show the short comings of the tool. So for you that information might seem pointless to include in the video but it’s definitely not pointless and who knows maybe they will see this video and pull the tool off the market and fix it because it’s a broken design.
I don't see the need for loadpro or power probe I can save 200+ $ and use it to make test lights and practice and be proficient and buy test leads and test kits
Well if you were sponsored by them you aren't anymore! LOL. Definately doesn't look that usefull. If it had a built in light and the tip was banana jack compatible it would probably be useful at least to some extent.
I'm sure if I really dove into it more I'd find more things to complain about but I thought that was enough lol
Im in T.x