I've got a busted engine case on a Honda 4 wheelers. My chain came off and bunched up around the sprocket and the shifter. The case cracked and all the engine oil ran on the ground. So I ordered a used case..I'd like to repair the original case. It's cast aluminum so idk much other than it's nothing special about it. Would the HTS-735-11 rods work?
Hi Bobby, The HTS-735-11 works very well on cast aluminum. Just follow the instructions , clean, heat to the melting point of the rod, apply the rod and let slow cool. practice a little before you work on the case. Watch my videos were I repair a case. Call for anytime for additional questions.
Hi , really informative video. One question how thick should be the aluminum to don’t make a hole ? Can I use a torch with 1/16 ? I was thinking in doing a frame .
Hello Fabian, Any thickness can be used because HTS-735-11 melts 500 degrees F. below the melting point of aluminum. So you must be able to control the heat by pulling the torch back away from the joint being joined. I use a wide torch so the heat is not concentrated I have an instructional video on youtube search HTS-735-11 on youtube. The 1/16 tip will concentrate the heat to a small area, you need to think of just warming the aluminum up to 735 degrees F. so the rod melts. Use the HTS-735-11 rod to determine the temperature as shown in my youtube videos. When joining two pieces together both must be hot enough to melt the rod. KEEP the ROD OUT of the FLAME. If you work the rod too close to the flame you will heat the rod so it melts before the aluminum reaches 735 degrees F. so the joint will fail. Watch my square tube video on youtube or give me a call and I will gladly help you.
I don’t have a welding machine, but I do have these rods and have used them to great success repairing holes and cracks in my Jon boats. I was thinking of installing a casting deck on one of these boats. Would this method be adequate to construct a frame for this deck?
Hello, Glad the rod is working for you. As for the casting deck the rod should work just fine for that. You may want to watch my square tube video "welding square tubing" showing how to add a support for extra strength. Thanks
Hi John, Not sure what you are asking, but all surfaces must be cleaned and oxide layer must be removed before heating and applying the rod. Roughing up the surfaces improves the bond as well.
Aluminum-weld.com yeah but your site says that your “2nd generation” rods penetrate oxidation and do not require a SS brush??? Other vids ive seen of similar products show the joint being scratched w a SS brush or flat head screw driver under a pool of the melted rod before it cools. I do not believe you did this but clearly you dud abrade the pieces ahead of time
Hi John, Now I understand your question. You observations are right on. HTS-735-11 is a new second generation rod that has no aluminum in it. Therefore you do not need a stainless steel brush, or use a screwdriver as you described with the old rods out there. HTS-735-11 works well on cast aluminum and aluminum that is less than perfectly clean, where older rods types that contain aluminum will not work. Also HTS-735-11 work on most nonferrous metals. It does no work on stainless steel, cast-iron, or steel.
Hi John . Here is the issue you have been describing ( HTS-735 II penetrates the aluminum oxide creating a chemical bond (Eutectic Bond) that is stronger than the original commercial aluminum. Results are unquestionable. The repairs are stronger than new. Unlike the old first generation rods still sold today on other sites, HTS-735-11 does not require special stainless steel cleaning brushes. This patented new technology product penetrates past impurities which may be impossible for the competitors products.) I agree the wording is not great. And will be updated thanks to you. Bottom line is you must remove the oxidation or anodized layer before applying the HTS-735-11 rod. The Key difference is you do not have to use a stainless steel brush as with the older rods out there, and HTS-735-11 will work when other older rods will fail due to impurities.
Hello, Well 1300C. equals 2372F. That is about the same as propane depending on the torch tip. The best answer I can give you is if you cannot get the aluminum hot enough to melt the rod then the answer is no that torch is not hot enough. You must adjust the heat source to the project. I use MAP Gas and a Berzomatic TS8000 when working on large projects like boats and a less hot torch when working on small thin aluminum. Sometimes I have to use oxygen acetylene. What are you working on? I can give you a better answer knowing that.
Do you think using this method to fab a bike cart with around a 300lb weight limit would be okay? plan on putting around 70lbs of lipo batteries on a 2 sitter trike bicycle. total weight as is right now arounf 600 lbs can get up to 32mph. what are your thoughts thanks??
Kevin James Hi Kevin that would be Sufficient for your bike trailer I would suggest you reinforce some of the joints using either angle aluminum or straight piece inside the square tubing good luck and send me some pictures
I never claimed to be a great welder and most of our customers are not and you don’t have to be in order to make repairs yourself and save hundreds of dollars and lots of time. The purpose of this video was to show how to achieve full strength by applying the rod past the joint on both sides to achieve full strength applying the HTS-735-11 rod only in the joint may look nice it will not be nearly as strong as going past the joint. Thank you for your interest I’m just a bit of a slob I guess take care.
I really love your passion in work 👍👍👍👍
You need to get project farm to do a video for you
HTS-735-11 is ONLY sold at aluminum-weld.com. It is not sold on Amazon.
I've got a busted engine case on a Honda 4 wheelers. My chain came off and bunched up around the sprocket and the shifter. The case cracked and all the engine oil ran on the ground. So I ordered a used case..I'd like to repair the original case. It's cast aluminum so idk much other than it's nothing special about it. Would the HTS-735-11 rods work?
Hi Bobby,
The HTS-735-11 works very well on cast aluminum. Just follow the instructions , clean, heat to the melting point of the rod, apply the rod and let slow cool. practice a little before you work on the case. Watch my videos were I repair a case. Call for anytime for additional questions.
Nice that is really strong!
Thanks for letting me know about this. now you have your first like and comment :)
Hi , really informative video. One question how thick should be the aluminum to don’t make a hole ? Can I use a torch with 1/16 ? I was thinking in doing a frame .
Hello Fabian, Any thickness can be used because HTS-735-11 melts 500 degrees F. below the melting point of aluminum. So you must be able to control the heat by pulling the torch back away from the joint being joined. I use a wide torch so the heat is not concentrated I have an instructional video on youtube search HTS-735-11 on youtube. The 1/16 tip will concentrate the heat to a small area, you need to think of just warming the aluminum up to 735 degrees F. so the rod melts. Use the HTS-735-11 rod to determine the temperature as shown in my youtube videos. When joining two pieces together both must be hot enough to melt the rod. KEEP the ROD OUT of the FLAME. If you work the rod too close to the flame you will heat the rod so it melts before the aluminum reaches 735 degrees F. so the joint will fail. Watch my square tube video on youtube or give me a call and I will gladly help you.
thank you.
I don’t have a welding machine, but I do have these rods and have used them to great success repairing holes and cracks in my Jon boats. I was thinking of installing a casting deck on one of these boats. Would this method be adequate to construct a frame for this deck?
Hello, Glad the rod is working for you. As for the casting deck the rod should work just fine for that. You may want to watch my square tube video "welding square tubing" showing how to add a support for extra strength. Thanks
so, you clean the oxide layer off ahead of time but you don't have to scrape underneath the hot pool w/ a screw driver?
Hi John, Not sure what you are asking, but all surfaces must be cleaned and oxide layer must be removed before heating and applying the rod. Roughing up the surfaces improves the bond as well.
Aluminum-weld.com yeah but your site says that your “2nd generation” rods penetrate oxidation and do not require a SS brush???
Other vids ive seen of similar products show the joint being scratched w a SS brush or flat head screw driver under a pool of the melted rod before it cools. I do not believe you did this but clearly you dud abrade the pieces ahead of time
Hi John, Now I understand your question. You observations are right on.
HTS-735-11 is a new second generation rod that has no aluminum in it. Therefore you do not need a stainless steel brush, or use a screwdriver as you described with the old rods out there. HTS-735-11 works well on cast aluminum and aluminum that is less than perfectly clean, where older rods types that contain aluminum will not work. Also HTS-735-11 work on most nonferrous metals. It does no work on stainless steel, cast-iron, or steel.
Hi John . Here is the issue you have been describing
( HTS-735 II penetrates the aluminum oxide creating a chemical bond (Eutectic Bond) that is stronger than the original commercial aluminum. Results are unquestionable. The repairs are stronger than new.
Unlike the old first generation rods still sold today on other sites, HTS-735-11 does not require special stainless steel cleaning brushes. This patented new technology product penetrates past impurities which may be impossible for the competitors products.)
I agree the wording is not great. And will be updated thanks to you.
Bottom line is you must remove the oxidation or anodized layer before applying the HTS-735-11 rod. The Key difference is you do not have to use a stainless steel brush as with the older rods out there, and HTS-735-11 will work when other older rods will fail due to impurities.
Aluminum-weld.com okay. Thanks. Is there cadmium or lead or other toxic metals in there?
Awesome
Would a 1300 degree Celsius torch be sufficient enough for this method it is dual flame aswel
Hello, Well 1300C. equals 2372F. That is about the same as propane depending on the torch tip. The best answer I can give you is if you cannot get the aluminum hot enough to melt the rod then the answer is no that torch is not hot enough. You must adjust the heat source to the project. I use MAP Gas and a Berzomatic TS8000 when working on large projects like boats and a less hot torch when working on small thin aluminum. Sometimes I have to use oxygen acetylene. What are you working on? I can give you a better answer knowing that.
Do you think using this method to fab a bike cart with around a 300lb weight limit would be okay? plan on putting around 70lbs of lipo batteries on a 2 sitter trike bicycle. total weight as is right now arounf 600 lbs can get up to 32mph. what are your thoughts thanks??
Kevin James
Hi Kevin that would be Sufficient for your bike trailer I would suggest you reinforce some of the joints using either angle aluminum or straight piece inside the square tubing good luck and send me some pictures
Heh i have not done any brazing or welding on over 30 years and i can still do a far cleaner job without post weld grinding
I never claimed to be a great welder and most of our customers are not and you don’t have to be in order to make repairs yourself and save hundreds of dollars and lots of time.
The purpose of this video was to show how to achieve full strength by applying the rod past the joint on both sides to achieve full strength applying the HTS-735-11 rod only in the joint may look nice it will not be nearly as strong as going past the joint.
Thank you for your interest I’m just a bit of a slob I guess take care.