Or put an air conditioning compressor on it and use the engine block itself as the condensor 😜. Probably not good for the engine as the engine is designed to run at a specific temperature, but maybe it's interesting
My friend left the oil cap off his girlfriend's car. She pulled over thinking the car was on fire after getting on the highway. Oil was ALL over the exhaust side of the engine. And the cap was still there, haha! I have him tons of shit for that one!
@@danieltabrizian look it up, dumping it on exhaust manifold isn't gonna light it up and that's a simple fact. U can dump gas on the exhaust manifold and it won't ignite either.
lmao oil doesnt burn that easily.... left my cap off one time. ran 70kms and when i opened the hood the oil was literaly everywhere,including the exhaust.
@@volvo09 Not such a problem, with an idling engine. There's not much compression in the cylinder, and, you've removed the plug wire, so the cylinder isn't "firing". If the engine was running wide open, the compression would be much greater, and it's noisy. (I know, I've actually done it!)
I've had spark plugs work their way out before, the trick would be wearing an insulated glove to protect you from the high voltage. Or use a coil on plug setup so that you electrically stop the spark before you need to remove the coil.
I've done this on a generator, except we didn't let it run dry, trying to leave some in the sump for the pickup. We cracked the drain and tried to feed just a little more than we drained, replacing about 1.5x the volume. It worked, but had someone with hands on all the valves and watching the pressure. Too much oil bogged it a bit and threw smoke, so be careful! One guy forgot oil is hot and got scalded, but otherwise went okay. But the filter is pressurized, so that had to stay, keeping the oil a bit dark. It was powering a concert, and the owner had mentioned the last maint was like 5 years ago when it started running rough. *facepalm* Lesson learned, always have a backup. P.S. On a properly running engine, you should be able to add oil with no issues, trick is if you're adding oil while it's running it's probably a POS (aka blowby).
@@5.43v If he ran that engine any longer with that 5 year old oil theres a good change it would have blown the engine at any moment. A number of catastrophic failures could take place as a result of having bad oil.
@@foellerd yep if I was running a big show and found that out I would have probably tried to do the same. Depends how long the show has left and how rough its running (sometimes its better to to not f with stuff)
generator, i have one. i bought it new, its about 5 or 6ooo watt, i forget. i ran it out in the woods for a project needing a saw and drills. i didnt even use a tank of gas. when i turned it off the oil was making noise. i removed the oil cap and that crap was BOILING. popping out stinking hot as could be. WHY? i changed the oil only to find out the capacity is just a quart. it boiled from use again. WHY?
Hahaha Once I made the mistake of doing an "Italian tune up" and driving the piss out of my car and instantly changing the oil when I got home. The hot oil sprayed out on my hand like boiling water and burned it. My hand was pink and painful, thankfully no blister. Soooo hot....
@@volvo09 I find even the dinkiest of rubber gloves can make a big difference. Won't stop a burn if you soak your hands too long, but they do give you some time during that 'oh shit!' moment.
It would have been cool to see compression test results before and after the oil change, just to see what the damage is from running the engine without oil for a few minutes.
What surprises me, is they did not proportionally pour new oil in, at the same time as it is draining, so as to avoid starving oil pump. When it runs clean, put the bung back in...- (check level), well that's how i would attempt it anyway, if for some weird reason i had too.
Minimal. The biggest issues will be in the bearings and cam. I'm more surprised it didn't develop a light knock while it was dry, although it was a bit chatty. Hard to tell with just the phone speaker but that sounded more like dry valve train to me than crank bearings. 🤷♂️ Idling isn't a big deal. There's no load, and all it has to do is generate enough power to overcome the sum of the internal friction. The forces involved aren't as intense as when accelerating etc The cylinders will be a bit on the dry side but are typically only splash lubricated by the crank counters dipping into the sump and atomizing it.
I love my Lada great little machine. Not many left in Canada anymore but fantastic machine for here. Even the parts are cheap until they are shipped here 4months later.
@@angelgjr1999 why would it? I took my 2001 fiesta to a drag strip (engine work done) with standard gearbox, driveshafts and clutch. Semi slick tyres on a prepped drag surface and dumped the clutch at 4k and didn't break anything...?
I've done this working on heavy equipment. It's a little easier with those considering it doesn't have a traditional drain plus, but a drain petcock. Plus when you have a pneumatic oil gun hooked up to a drum and you can adjust the amount of oil being pumped, it's probably the easiest way to do it while it's running.
Some aviation pioneers kept an aeroplane flying for over 3 weeks and actually changed the sparkplugs whilst it was running in the air! Maybe you can try this some time when you get flying lada.👍😎❤️
ittl be fine, no different wear than a startup or 2. everything would still have oil it just wouldn't have been under pressure for a minute, which happens on startup or if you are cornering really hard.
The cylinders will be more or less untouched by the process. Polishing them with the flush did more damage to them and you can do that following the instructions on the jug. The biggest issue is the crank bearings and cam.
The planes that set endurance records for continuous flight were modified to allow changing the oil and filter during flight while the engine was running.
We actually used to do this at a jiffy lube I used to work at. The one guy who worked there really wanted his 93 Sundance oil clean. So we would start then car, start draining it, and pour oil in at the same time. So as it’s draining out, new oil is going in. We just waited until it was clean and put the plug back in and stopped putting oil in. It actually worked pretty well.
Here's a challenge for you, Try taking an ordinary Lada, and turn the mechanicals 90 degrees in relation to the body shell, then drive it sideways! - If that isn't practical, try welding two Ladas side by side, and turning the mechanicals by 90 degrees. Let's see a Lada driving sideways!
Use 3 people..like a pit stop. One drains oil..while one removes the oil filter and the other person is ready to fill..that way it wouldn't run the risk of seizing. Also try change plugs with the motor running...one at a time. Loosen..change and reconnect the bougi...then move on. Love Garage 54 you guys are amazing. Would love to meet Vlad
If your vehicle burns/leaks enough oil, you have the bonus of never having to do an oil change because you keep putting new oil in. I call this: The perpetual oil change.
Of course you can, But should you is the real question lol.. The synthic oils are deff better for this than a normal oil.. Also a high mileage oil.. Would like to see this with a few different oils.
Replace the drainplug with a fumoto, petcock or other no-tool/no-mess drain valve. That way you can close the drain valve easily after the oil drains clean.
With a smaller orifice the oil won't flow very well. On small Marine diesels they have an oil drain tube which is about a quarter of an inch in diameter. If you try and drain the sump with the engine running the oil only flows out of that tube very slowly. Obviously 18" of that tube is more of a restriction than just the valve but it's going to be the same problem on a smaller scale. On larger marine diesels, say over 200 horsepower, there's actually an oil pump to extract the oil from the sump into a disposal container. I believe some heavy equipment is also done this way.
@@otm646 Obviously smaller orifice will impede flow, but large marine diesels also have the very viscous oil problem, small gasoline cars like lada do not use such viscous oil
You can top up oil on a running engine, if the rocker cover has an oil baffle inside it you wont get any splash. If it doesn't.... mine didn't and I didn't get any spray🤷♀️
Use an external oil filter with a quick release coupling on both hoses. Pop both while running, put "suck" into a bottle of "new" oil, "blow" into a drain, and swap the filter with no pressure!
Get a BIG pan and then dump lots of oil on top. And eventually it'll come clear. It's probably the best way to do it since it'll flush too and get the most oil out and new in. Chevy uses a big tank of oil to slow break-in their Corvette engines. It's mounted over the tank with pickup in the oil and then they slow rotate it like 150rpmish to make sure the motor pumps oil through and they let that go for about a day. I imagine it's like a "spa day" for an engine lol.
I reckon, if you installed a valve inlet of some description so you can force the new oil in under pressure it would be a lot easier to pull this off. Taking in to consideration once the sump plug has been put back in and the system is sealed you would need to have higher pressure outside that inside the oil system for it to work.
I agree if you say LADAs are awesome cars. I drive a NIVA/ 4x4 for 8 years now and except the beginning rust it's running like new. LADA never completely fine but also never completely done.
This video is going to be good. The closest I have gotten to doing this was just moving the car off the wheel ramps, but that was like less than 30 seconds of idle time. This title suggests changing the oil from start to finish while the engine is idle. That's nuts. I can't wait to see the results of this.
I change transmission fluid buy overfilling it first with 4 qts then pulling a cooler line off running it to a bucket have an assistant start it and as it pumps fluid into bucket i start to add fluid after about 4 qts comes out i run system capacity through it 12 to 16 qts usually and shut it down hook up line if i let it run 20 sec after i stop pouring and save back the last qt i can sneek up on level after warming it up if you overfill pull cooler line back off and pump out excess
i did that on a white tractor 1947 (semi truck dont confuse with farm tractor) we had to flush oil, took about 16-24 gallons total to flush melted and chipped/broken babbitt out while it was running, then we took cam out, put it in a ceramic oven to melt all babbitt. then, we heat treated the cam again. cast new babbitt on them. sen tto local machine shop to machine into size. put it back together. the engine is good for another 150k hours.
I used to tow for a living. Recovery, not repo. We were preparing a ford explorer for scrap one time and decided to see how long it would last with no cats, no oil and no coolant. Ran it wide open and it made it 16 mins before locking up! That engine died in the name of science!
You guys have successfully washed a car in motion. How about doing an oil change with the car in motion? Others have brilliantly suggested a tire change on a moving car. (a superb idea!) Either or both of these challenges are worthy of a Garage 54 solution and documentary video. Please make it so. May the force be with you. Live long and prosper. Aloha.
Fun trick you could have done to prevent oil from coming out of the drain plug until you want the oil to drain is to use a powerful Shop-Vac and you secure it to the oil fill on the top of the motor turn the Shop-Vac on take the drain plug out and the shop back will create enough suction to pull air through the drain plug that's preventing oil from pouring out shut the Shop-Vac off the oil drains
Garage 54 they do make quick disconnects that you replace your oil pan bolt with so you hook this little hose to it and it drains your oil and you unhook the little hose kind of like a quick disconnect on a air tank...
Call it crazy, on some older cars I've had, I'll bung in a coupla cans of Wynns Engine flush, got for a quick 10 minute slow speed drive. Then, after I've allowed the warm engine oil to drain out until there's just hardly any drips coming out, I'll then start the engine up again for 10 to 15 seconds so the last of the oil is pumped into the sump - to get the last of the dregs out, I'll stop the engine, wait again for no more drips, then replace the filter and put in fresh oil. It's never caused any problems for me. I've done this with cars and motorbikes (cars maximum 20 seconds, bikes maximum 10 seconds)... 😎🇬🇧
Hey I just wanted to say hi I'm Dave out of America what you do will change what the engines running that's awesome no one's ever done that before that is pretty awesome and you are awesome we love your videos
challenge: push start an automatic lada. for example for me i have an 07 honda civic . It has to be rolling in 1 st at about 15-18 mph before i can switch the power on and it goes . (note , battery must have some charge to energize altenator) so this is more a broken starter type of scenario.
Actually you can take this experiment one step forward and you can measure cylinder compression values before and after the change to see the effect of this process.
Test "Cold air intake" by making an apparatus that super cools the air going into the engine. Maybe make a metal box that can be filled with liquid nitrogen and run an aluminum intake pipe through it so the air gets incredibly cold before being sucked into the engine. Do a test before and after and see it it makes a difference.
Before this videos I am wondering if is absolutely necessary tot fill oil filter with oil , when I change the oil. From this point everything's clear 😌 👌
We put oil line in filler hole and crack open. Pull the plug on pan and let drain until clear. Fill until the sight window is covered. Simply unscrew the filter and spin off/on fast. Its very seldom we ever shutdown for oil change on the towboat. Same process for the vacuum pumps onboard. Of course it’s easier on diesels than gasoline engines. Good video, not a lot of people know this stuff.
I dont think that one is possible. Once friction starts to warm the valve stem/valve train up, lash changes tremendously. That's why valves are always adjusted from dead cold.
20 years experience and this is the first I've ever heard of adjusting a hot valve.. Not to say it isn't possible, or I disagree. Just no experiencein my line. I'm piqued.
Learning how to do it from the master, the young man is lucky to have such an apprenticeship. The lada is built with plenty of blow by so you can top it up with bog water from the taiga for the long drive home.🇷🇺👍🏅
might work better if you use the engine to pump the oil out, and pushed the cleaning oil thru the motor. like use a hydraulic cylinder with cleaning oil on top and pump the used oil in on bottom. just swap it with the oil pump output with a valve. if you swapped it in place of the filter it could be changed at the same time. would be great with a remote filter setup.
What next? Tire change while driving? Engine swap while in free fall? It would be interesting to see how much wear engine got from that. Maybe test how long it takes for crank bearings dont get any new oil.
You’ve probably never heard of the YT channel, Neutral Drop, but if I did 1/32nd of what either of you channels do, my trucks would blow up immediately but you guys are able to pull this type of stuff off without issues!?!?!?
USA: wearing gloves and safety glasses Russia: removing the oilpan screw with bare hands while the engine is running - staring with unprotected eyes from 20cm distance on the boiling oil pouring - lying down on the floor while car is on the lift :) luv u guys LOL
Nissan's official service manual says the correct procedure for changing transmission fluid is to do it with the engine running. Not exactly the same thing but getting close.
I don't know why anyone would do that! I understand the videos showing how long you can drive without engine oil. I was also interested in that. These are usually old vehicles. I don't know why anyone would change the oil in a car that they still intend to use.
Oil a water may mix in case of broken head gasket, so may me use the same fluid for both usages :-), you just have to ajuste some drilling diameters, but should work
can you guys make an electric lada from addin like 2 or 3 starter motors on engine and put couple more batterys on it like a backup when engine blows up you could move on with starter motors
Put a turbo on a stock lada engine see how much it can handle
That is a great idea!!!
Or use a second Lada engine to power a supercharger that forces air into the first engine!
Yes
Yes, great idea!
, while running 😁
Try air-cooling a regular watercooled engine, by pumping lots of air through the water cooling system, and check how long it can run like that
👆This☝️
Or put an air conditioning compressor on it and use the engine block itself as the condensor 😜. Probably not good for the engine as the engine is designed to run at a specific temperature, but maybe it's interesting
Large industrial compressor and a gang of intercoolers to lose the heat of compression
air cooled engines are basically oil cooled. they need twice as much oil in sump
@@kize32 not
Things I learned this episode:
1. You can change oil while a car is running
2. Vlad has a very tall bucket
lmao, spot on!
@@The93Momo93 😆
c mon dude,u forgot that also have a special long funnel...
I added oil to a running engine once. I really miss that car but it did make a cool fireball after the oil sprayed on the exhaust manifold.
My friend left the oil cap off his girlfriend's car. She pulled over thinking the car was on fire after getting on the highway. Oil was ALL over the exhaust side of the engine.
And the cap was still there, haha! I have him tons of shit for that one!
Fake news! First off flash point of oil is extremely high, so didn't happen..
@@shawnsatterlee6035 how high? Im curious
@@danieltabrizian look it up, dumping it on exhaust manifold isn't gonna light it up and that's a simple fact. U can dump gas on the exhaust manifold and it won't ignite either.
lmao oil doesnt burn that easily.... left my cap off one time. ran 70kms and when i opened the hood the oil was literaly everywhere,including the exhaust.
I would like to see a spark plug change with engine running 😜🤣
I wonder if it would be possible to get it in? I've seen the damage they can do when they shoot out!
I agree!
Sounds dangerous af lol
Sounds like its risky enough for Vlad, he will look like a newly assimilated Borg with the spark plug sticking out of his eye socket.
@@volvo09 Not such a problem, with an idling engine. There's not much compression in the cylinder, and, you've removed the plug wire, so the cylinder isn't "firing". If the engine was running wide open, the compression would be much greater, and it's noisy. (I know, I've actually done it!)
I've had spark plugs work their way out before, the trick would be wearing an insulated glove to protect you from the high voltage. Or use a coil on plug setup so that you electrically stop the spark before you need to remove the coil.
I've done this on a generator, except we didn't let it run dry, trying to leave some in the sump for the pickup. We cracked the drain and tried to feed just a little more than we drained, replacing about 1.5x the volume. It worked, but had someone with hands on all the valves and watching the pressure. Too much oil bogged it a bit and threw smoke, so be careful! One guy forgot oil is hot and got scalded, but otherwise went okay. But the filter is pressurized, so that had to stay, keeping the oil a bit dark. It was powering a concert, and the owner had mentioned the last maint was like 5 years ago when it started running rough. *facepalm* Lesson learned, always have a backup.
P.S. On a properly running engine, you should be able to add oil with no issues, trick is if you're adding oil while it's running it's probably a POS (aka blowby).
Why not just make sure the oil was topped off
@@5.43v If he ran that engine any longer with that 5 year old oil theres a good change it would have blown the engine at any moment. A number of catastrophic failures could take place as a result of having bad oil.
@@foellerd yep if I was running a big show and found that out I would have probably tried to do the same. Depends how long the show has left and how rough its running (sometimes its better to to not f with stuff)
generator, i have one. i bought it new, its about 5 or 6ooo watt, i forget. i ran it out in the woods for a project needing a saw and drills.
i didnt even use a tank of gas. when i turned it off the oil was making noise. i removed the oil cap and that crap was BOILING. popping out stinking hot as could be.
WHY? i changed the oil only to find out the capacity is just a quart. it boiled from use again.
WHY?
Absolutely! No problem , just make sure to have on a protective oil proof suit!
Hahaha
Once I made the mistake of doing an "Italian tune up" and driving the piss out of my car and instantly changing the oil when I got home.
The hot oil sprayed out on my hand like boiling water and burned it. My hand was pink and painful, thankfully no blister.
Soooo hot....
@@volvo09 I find even the dinkiest of rubber gloves can make a big difference. Won't stop a burn if you soak your hands too long, but they do give you some time during that 'oh shit!' moment.
It would have been cool to see compression test results before and after the oil change, just to see what the damage is from running the engine without oil for a few minutes.
I guess compression has Not that big of an impact. Biggest issue will be bearings. Camshafts and Mains running dry.
What surprises me, is they did not proportionally pour new oil in, at the same time as it is draining, so as to avoid starving oil pump.
When it runs clean, put the bung back in...- (check level), well that's how i would attempt it anyway, if for some weird reason i had too.
@@Retiredkiwi If a person is in a pinch to be doing this, I bet they wouldn't want to use any more oil than necessary.
Minimal. The biggest issues will be in the bearings and cam. I'm more surprised it didn't develop a light knock while it was dry, although it was a bit chatty. Hard to tell with just the phone speaker but that sounded more like dry valve train to me than crank bearings. 🤷♂️
Idling isn't a big deal. There's no load, and all it has to do is generate enough power to overcome the sum of the internal friction. The forces involved aren't as intense as when accelerating etc
The cylinders will be a bit on the dry side but are typically only splash lubricated by the crank counters dipping into the sump and atomizing it.
Garage54. Answering questions we never knew we wanted to know. Love this stuff
I wish I could get a lada inported to canada. I love how simple they are, the perfect car for me.
I love my Lada great little machine. Not many left in Canada anymore but fantastic machine for here. Even the parts are cheap until they are shipped here 4months later.
I've got an idea... I'd like to see how well velcro tyres would grip a velcro floor...
Reminds me of the Audi quattro commercial
It would explode the clutch haha
Or a velcro wall...
@@angelgjr1999 why would it?
I took my 2001 fiesta to a drag strip (engine work done) with standard gearbox, driveshafts and clutch. Semi slick tyres on a prepped drag surface and dumped the clutch at 4k and didn't break anything...?
@@jjmmjj9999 How much torque does it make?
I've done this working on heavy equipment. It's a little easier with those considering it doesn't have a traditional drain plus, but a drain petcock. Plus when you have a pneumatic oil gun hooked up to a drum and you can adjust the amount of oil being pumped, it's probably the easiest way to do it while it's running.
You guys never cease to amaze me. The ideas you come up with for videos crack me up.
Some aviation pioneers kept an aeroplane flying for over 3 weeks and actually changed the sparkplugs whilst it was running in the air! Maybe you can try this some time when you get flying lada.👍😎❤️
have you ever seen a lose spark plug fly?
This is way too dangerous
How about giving a credible source for this claim. Internet searches revealed nothing.
Now that you mention aviation, what if they replace the stock Lada motor with a small plane motor?
Try doing a compression test on that engine to check if any damage occurred at the cylinders
the rod bearings are the first thing to go
ittl be fine, no different wear than a startup or 2. everything would still have oil it just wouldn't have been under pressure for a minute, which happens on startup or if you are cornering really hard.
@@halleffect1 yes, but there is no test for that
@@nickoloes low oil pressure, audible knocking..
The cylinders will be more or less untouched by the process. Polishing them with the flush did more damage to them and you can do that following the instructions on the jug.
The biggest issue is the crank bearings and cam.
The planes that set endurance records for continuous flight were modified to allow changing the oil and filter during flight while the engine was running.
It's called a dry sump and remote reservoir system.
Very easy to change oil while running.
YES, you can, and you can change it out into the hills behind your house. No carrying dirty oil to recycle.
We actually used to do this at a jiffy lube I used to work at. The one guy who worked there really wanted his 93 Sundance oil clean. So we would start then car, start draining it, and pour oil in at the same time. So as it’s draining out, new oil is going in. We just waited until it was clean and put the plug back in and stopped putting oil in. It actually worked pretty well.
That explains why jiffy lube gets a bad rep. I used to work at jiffy lube too
It was an employee’s car. Lol. He wanted to do it. So we did.
@@funnypranker34 my experience is they try to make you feel retarded for not buying both an air filter and cabin air filter at every change.
"you'll notice that it isnt running perfectly"........one day ill notice when one does run perfectly!!..love your work you guys
Here's a challenge for you,
Try taking an ordinary Lada, and turn the mechanicals 90 degrees in relation to the body shell, then drive it sideways! - If that isn't practical, try welding two Ladas side by side, and turning the mechanicals by 90 degrees.
Let's see a Lada driving sideways!
Good ide
Use 3 people..like a pit stop. One drains oil..while one removes the oil filter and the other person is ready to fill..that way it wouldn't run the risk of seizing.
Also try change plugs with the motor running...one at a time. Loosen..change and reconnect the bougi...then move on.
Love Garage 54 you guys are amazing. Would love to meet Vlad
If your vehicle burns/leaks enough oil, you have the bonus of never having to do an oil change because you keep putting new oil in. I call this: The perpetual oil change.
you need to put a new filter in at some point
@@SpencerLemay
Nonsense……filters are overrated. After they clog up, they will go into bypass to insure flow. 😀
Same idea for power steering fluid, ATF, brake fluid as well?
You still need to drain the oil to remove the sludge from the pan.
@@Chris-yy7qc not needed on old worn engine on POS car.
Ive always wanted to try this…
No one fuckin cares
@@RaiderOfTheLost Take a hike.
Of course you can, But should you is the real question lol.. The synthic oils are deff better for this than a normal oil.. Also a high mileage oil.. Would like to see this with a few different oils.
Excellent, how about changing the front coil springs while driving lol 😆
Replace the drainplug with a fumoto, petcock or other no-tool/no-mess drain valve. That way you can close the drain valve easily after the oil drains clean.
With a smaller orifice the oil won't flow very well. On small Marine diesels they have an oil drain tube which is about a quarter of an inch in diameter. If you try and drain the sump with the engine running the oil only flows out of that tube very slowly. Obviously 18" of that tube is more of a restriction than just the valve but it's going to be the same problem on a smaller scale.
On larger marine diesels, say over 200 horsepower, there's actually an oil pump to extract the oil from the sump into a disposal container. I believe some heavy equipment is also done this way.
@@otm646 Obviously smaller orifice will impede flow, but large marine diesels also have the very viscous oil problem, small gasoline cars like lada do not use such viscous oil
You can top up oil on a running engine, if the rocker cover has an oil baffle inside it you wont get any splash. If it doesn't.... mine didn't and I didn't get any spray🤷♀️
10 W 60 holy crap!
@Pyro-Lyro is that because of the cold Siberian winter?
@@jonathanryan2915 No just very very old engines that have poor compression and worn out bearings.
@@markm0000 that's what I was hoping. Just the loosest tolerances I ever heard of
So what? I run 20w-50 normally all year round..
Yes 20 w 50 had been around for years now, but I didn't know 10w 60 was even possible
The flight endurance record in Las Vegas they did oil changes mid flight over the 64 day event. It took place in 1958.
Wow this is amazing
Where to find information on this?
Use an external oil filter with a quick release coupling on both hoses. Pop both while running, put "suck" into a bottle of "new" oil, "blow" into a drain, and swap the filter with no pressure!
Wonder how main/rod bearings look like after such an oil change :-)
Same as they did before the oil change.
It’s a lada, so probably exactly the same. Although if someone was thinking of doing this in their new Mercedes I can’t say I’d expect the same result
@@lookingbehind6335 You know nothing about engines
@D R pretty much trashed
@@nitrorcmaster1 Lada are overrated...
they are hard to kill, but are very low-quality built, and so not very reliable.
Serge is a great mechanic.
I can imagine how hard it may be to work for Vlad.
Bardahl, #1 in Russia. From Washington State, started by a Norwegian.
Get a BIG pan and then dump lots of oil on top. And eventually it'll come clear. It's probably the best way to do it since it'll flush too and get the most oil out and new in.
Chevy uses a big tank of oil to slow break-in their Corvette engines. It's mounted over the tank with pickup in the oil and then they slow rotate it like 150rpmish to make sure the motor pumps oil through and they let that go for about a day. I imagine it's like a "spa day" for an engine lol.
That’s neat. I didn’t know that’s how they break in engines from factory.
Dreamer. You really think any engine will run at a factory for 1 day? Not even on million dollar super cars.
That was great fellas. Thanks for using my crazy idea. Now I'll have to get some merchandise from you.
Always happy to see new videos!!!
I reckon, if you installed a valve inlet of some description so you can force the new oil in under pressure it would be a lot easier to pull this off. Taking in to consideration once the sump plug has been put back in and the system is sealed you would need to have higher pressure outside that inside the oil system for it to work.
It's never really sealed. There's a crankcase vent leading to intake manifold so it stays at or below atmospheric pressure.
I agree if you say LADAs are awesome cars. I drive a NIVA/ 4x4 for 8 years now and except the beginning rust it's running like new. LADA never completely fine but also never completely done.
Successfully messy, but completed!! Nice job!!
This video is going to be good. The closest I have gotten to doing this was just moving the car off the wheel ramps, but that was like less than 30 seconds of idle time. This title suggests changing the oil from start to finish while the engine is idle. That's nuts. I can't wait to see the results of this.
The video is already fully uploaded so it's not going to be anything else than what it already is.
I laughed when he said, "You'll notice that it isn't running perfectly, but no worries, that's totally normal."
I change transmission fluid buy overfilling it first with 4 qts then pulling a cooler line off running it to a bucket have an assistant start it and as it pumps fluid into bucket i start to add fluid after about 4 qts comes out i run system capacity through it 12 to 16 qts usually and shut it down hook up line if i let it run 20 sec after i stop pouring and save back the last qt i can sneek up on level after warming it up if you overfill pull cooler line back off and pump out excess
i did that on a white tractor 1947 (semi truck dont confuse with farm tractor)
we had to flush oil, took about 16-24 gallons total to flush melted and chipped/broken babbitt out while it was running, then we took cam out, put it in a ceramic oven to melt all babbitt. then, we heat treated the cam again. cast new babbitt on them. sen tto local machine shop to machine into size. put it back together. the engine is good for another 150k hours.
This has to be the craziest channel on UA-cam. Just the recipe for troubled people as myself.
I used to tow for a living. Recovery, not repo. We were preparing a ford explorer for scrap one time and decided to see how long it would last with no cats, no oil and no coolant. Ran it wide open and it made it 16 mins before locking up! That engine died in the name of science!
what was no cats supposed to do? just be loud?
@@MiG21aholic nothing, cats are removed before car is crushed due to their value. And yes, it was loud.
The Neutral Drop guys love doing the same thing on their YT channel.
👌😂👍I’m convinced! That no matter what you try! You can’t kill a Lada engine!
You guys have successfully washed a car in motion.
How about doing an oil change with the car in motion?
Others have brilliantly suggested a tire change on a moving car. (a superb idea!)
Either or both of these challenges are worthy of a Garage 54 solution and documentary video.
Please make it so.
May the force be with you.
Live long and prosper.
Aloha.
this Channel is always fascinating.
Trust Sergei, he knows what he's doing 👍
Good task already been mentioned in video - try to push-start the automatic!
Fun trick you could have done to prevent oil from coming out of the drain plug until you want the oil to drain is to use a powerful Shop-Vac and you secure it to the oil fill on the top of the motor turn the Shop-Vac on take the drain plug out and the shop back will create enough suction to pull air through the drain plug that's preventing oil from pouring out shut the Shop-Vac off the oil drains
Garage 54 they do make quick disconnects that you replace your oil pan bolt with so you hook this little hose to it and it drains your oil and you unhook the little hose kind of like a quick disconnect on a air tank...
yo this is amazing. and if the engine doesn't die under their conditions, surely this could be done when the process is further optimized. cool!!
I was expecting something like a dialysis machine. But nope, they went full send! _SAVAGES!_ 🤣
With a two man team this would actually be pretty quick. As in one guy below the car draining oil, the other filling it up from above.
I didn't know that... The oil filter on the Lada is located in a smart place, unlike many other cars. 🤔
Call it crazy, on some older cars I've had, I'll bung in a coupla cans of Wynns Engine flush, got for a quick 10 minute slow speed drive. Then, after I've allowed the warm engine oil to drain out until there's just hardly any drips coming out, I'll then start the engine up again for 10 to 15 seconds so the last of the oil is pumped into the sump - to get the last of the dregs out, I'll stop the engine, wait again for no more drips, then replace the filter and put in fresh oil. It's never caused any problems for me. I've done this with cars and motorbikes (cars maximum 20 seconds, bikes maximum 10 seconds)... 😎🇬🇧
Hey I just wanted to say hi I'm Dave out of America what you do will change what the engines running that's awesome no one's ever done that before that is pretty awesome and you are awesome we love your videos
old lada's never die. they just become more powerful than you can imagine.
challenge: push start an automatic lada. for example for me i have an 07 honda civic . It has to be rolling in 1 st at about 15-18 mph before i can switch the power on and it goes . (note , battery must have some charge to energize altenator) so this is more a broken starter type of scenario.
You should replace the head gasket while it is running, now that would be a challenge!
Ladas are the Nokia phones of cars.
In 200,000 years the only cars that will still run will be Ladas.
Next time try to change the head gasket on a running engine ! ;-P
Is not possible because you need to quit head block
And there no valves to keep engine firing and running
Actually you can take this experiment one step forward and you can measure cylinder compression values before and after the change to see the effect of this process.
Fun stuff!
I wish you would make a reversed backup camera, as in a big flatscreen on the rear of the car showing the drivers face. Vlad, that is.
Great video ! 👍
Burning your arms on the manifold, burning your fingers with hot oil and oil filter, is part of the oil change experience.
Test "Cold air intake" by making an apparatus that super cools the air going into the engine. Maybe make a metal box that can be filled with liquid nitrogen and run an aluminum intake pipe through it so the air gets incredibly cold before being sucked into the engine. Do a test before and after and see it it makes a difference.
This is something i wondered my whole life😂
As always awesome video brother 👊🏽😆
Before this videos I am wondering if is absolutely necessary tot fill oil filter with oil , when I change the oil. From this point everything's clear 😌 👌
Greatest content on youtube
I wanna see the worlds first external combustion engine.💥
yeah they are called rockets! lol
a steam engine is actually a external combustion engine
Project Orion. The idea was to detonate nukes behind a rocket to push it forward.
I have seen oil change systems on semi trucks that allow you to change the oil with the motor running.
Great job guys!
Garage 54, You should try welding the crankshaft in a crossplane configuration like a Yamaha R1 engine.
i've heard of crossplane cranks in v8's and v12's, but not an I4!
I love the crazy stuff u guys come up with no one else ever comes up with anything similar. U r unique over there u wild and crazy guys.lol
12:27 mixes a hearty mechanic's stew.
We put oil line in filler hole and crack open. Pull the plug on pan and let drain until clear. Fill until the sight window is covered. Simply unscrew the filter and spin off/on fast. Its very seldom we ever shutdown for oil change on the towboat. Same process for the vacuum pumps onboard.
Of course it’s easier on diesels than gasoline engines. Good video, not a lot of people know this stuff.
You guys should try to do a valve adjustment while the engines running
I dont think that one is possible.
Once friction starts to warm the valve stem/valve train up, lash changes tremendously.
That's why valves are always adjusted from dead cold.
@@austinlane5533 wrong, some valves are adjusted hot , and a lot of manufactures offer a hot and a cold adjustment
20 years experience and this is the first I've ever heard of adjusting a hot valve..
Not to say it isn't possible, or I disagree. Just no experiencein my line. I'm piqued.
Learning how to do it from the master, the young man is lucky to have such an apprenticeship. The lada is built with plenty of blow by so you can top it up with bog water from the taiga for the long drive home.🇷🇺👍🏅
might work better if you use the engine to pump the oil out, and pushed the cleaning oil thru the motor. like use a hydraulic cylinder with cleaning oil on top and pump the used oil in on bottom. just swap it with the oil pump output with a valve. if you swapped it in place of the filter it could be changed at the same time. would be great with a remote filter setup.
What next? Tire change while driving? Engine swap while in free fall? It would be interesting to see how much wear engine got from that. Maybe test how long it takes for crank bearings dont get any new oil.
Tire change while driving.. Arabs did that already..
Use “Slick 50” it Teflon coats the engine you can run dry, after using on one litre.
You’ve probably never heard of the YT channel, Neutral Drop, but if I did 1/32nd of what either of you channels do, my trucks would blow up immediately but you guys are able to pull this type of stuff off without issues!?!?!?
Imagine seeing your Lada on UA-cam while it's in the shop... LoL
USA: wearing gloves and safety glasses
Russia: removing the oilpan screw with bare hands while the engine is running - staring with unprotected eyes from 20cm distance on the boiling oil pouring - lying down on the floor while car is on the lift :) luv u guys LOL
Nissan's official service manual says the correct procedure for changing transmission fluid is to do it with the engine running. Not exactly the same thing but getting close.
great job vlad 👌
So this is how Jiffy lube changes your oil so fast. Good for another 3000-7000 miles.
I suggested this a few months ago! YES!!!
I don't know why anyone would do that! I understand the videos showing how long you can drive without engine oil. I was also interested in that. These are usually old vehicles. I don't know why anyone would change the oil in a car that they still intend to use.
Russian Jiffy Lube.
This is better than jiffy lube. He put oil back in it.
@@markm0000
Exactly……most of the time they don’t even do that. They give the premium pretend service.
Oil a water may mix in case of broken head gasket, so may me use the same fluid for both usages :-), you just have to ajuste some drilling diameters, but should work
That is really interesting to see I thought for sure that engine would start knocking lol but guess not all is well
Here I thought they were actually gonna be quick about it 🤣
Ok ok...you did this...now..🤣 you gotta do a transmission change while in drive🤣 I wanna see that! Thanks🇷🇺 from: San Antonio TX🇺🇲
Should have measured the cylinder compression when engine is hot before you drained the oil and changed it then measure the compression hot after.
can you guys make an electric lada from addin like 2 or 3 starter motors on engine and put couple more batterys on it like a backup when engine blows up you could move on with starter motors