*🔥$50 off while supplies last! CODE: 50offss8* Buy the OSD SS8 DSP on OutdoorSpeakerDepot: bit.ly/OSDSS8DSP-OSD Who thinks I should do a giveaway of this sub? Comment below within 24 hours of me posting this? Buy the OSD SS8 DSP on Amazon: bit.ly/OSDSS8DSP Disclaimer: OSD Audio is a channel sponsor. I am allowed to say whatever I want about their products without previous review from them. This product was sent to me free for review. The Affiliate links above earn me a commission if you purchase using those links. This is at no additional cost to you.
This will be perfect for playing games and watching movies on your computers, you can place them vertically, lowest price with app control DSP subwoofers
@@joentell Just got my Dali Spektor 1 speakers for my computer setup, thinking I need a little sub to fill these out and this video pops up! Hard to pass up at $150 with your coupon code. I don't need slamming bass, I have a 12" in the corner of my theater setup. For a small computer desk setup I think this will be perfect! Any chance you could detail the DSP app, is it iOS only? I can't seem to find it in the Google Play store, may have to borrow an iPad to set this up. Thanks!
I have an 8" sub from a car install given to me thooked up into a sub input on a small SHARP sound system, and man it really kicks down low. Sony Xplode 1100 watt down to 18hz. What an improvement in bass that you can feel.
For my PC I like to use a small sub, REW and Equalizer APO the crap out of it dropping the dynamic range and extending the bass. If you've got the x-max on the driver it's amazing how low you can get. So I give up SPL for more lower bass. Works for the PC just fine.
That's an interesting method for determining the -3dB point. Typically you'd measure 3dB down from your flat passband (in your case 50-200hz) which would put your -3dB point at a much more realistic 45hz range.
I'm trying to find info on if there's a standardized method for doing this properly. I've been told numerous ways from using 1khz as a reference point, not good because companies cheat and apply a big bass boost to get a lower relative -3dB frequency. What is the source of your method? I'm always looking to improve my methods.
@@joentell you find the average response within the passband, in other words, the average level within the "flat" range. For this sub, you can see that it's flat from about 50hz to 200hz. The average level within that range is your reference level, and you'll find the -3dB point relative to that. Based on your graph, this sub will be around the 47hz range, which is honestly not bad for an inexpensive 8" sub.
I'm asking what the source of your method is. Not saying it's wrong, just trying to find out if there's a standard. I'm going based on what the RTA is saying the average dB (C-weighted) is for the range of the speaker. I'm asking Erin from Erin's Audio Corner and Brent Butterworth to get some insight. I don't mind being wrong, but I don't want to continue doing it incorrectly if there's a more established way. I'm looking at KEF's KC62 white paper and their +-3dB at 11hz claim. They seem to be using a method similar to mine to determine that. In the end, it's just a number to me and I just want to be consistent in my reviews and with others.
@@joentell I don't have a specific source. It's just what a +/- 3dB specification means. I'm an EE and deal with signal measurements all the time. It's a very standard way of constraining a frequency-based signal.
I appreciate you taking the time to teach me. Would you mind taking a look at this KEF KC62 white paper and tell me how they're arriving at their 11hz +-3dB spec? Are they also not using your proposed method? KEF is known for being engineering oriented in their design philosophy. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=assets.kef.com/pdf_doc/KC62/KC62_White_paper.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjA5a6e5rjvAhX-GDQIHe3KBRAQFjAAegQIBRAC&usg=AOvVaw2cP0OANCO-IIB_paMwH79L&cshid=1616034669909 I've overlayed a grid to see exactly where it's flat on the green line which is 76dB. 11hz looks to be at 68dB.
This may a dumb question given the detail of the video, but I’m new to ALL audio terminology, so want to be sure! Does this sub have built in amp? So if I wanted to plug in my Turn Table (RCA) and satellites (16 gauge speaker wire), this sub will power all of it?
This is the only sub that would fit under my entertainment center. Just want to know what volume and frequency to set it on. Right now got it on 70% volume and 80hz. Having rattle but can’t hear it when I turn it down too much.
Considering it says 100w on the back it's probably a fair guess that 200w rating isn't RMS ;) Not that it really matters that much. (Ie. 100w vs 200w is only about +3dB)
My dude El Jefe! It's compact and it's $149 with the coupon code....I think that would give a little extra bass that I know for a fact the PB42X can't produce.
Thanks Joe for the review! ordered this up for my modest 5.0 living room setup! Not trying for deep deep bass, but just a bit more in the upstairs setup. This Should fit nice under my media cabinet. Hoping this can supplement the RP600M. will try with double bass, and X over at 80 & 60. no room for a traditional subwoofer, was thinking in wall, until I saw this was only 4.5 inches thick/deep.
If I had infinite money, and I surely don't but it's fun to think about, I'd use high quality sealed large subs with speakers for L/R channel, but I might try what you suggested and combine these with a wireless transmitter all hooked up to the home theater LFE under the couch. That could be a ton of fun.
Hi Joe, thanks for the video. Clear as always. Would it be possible to give some advice on good mic and software for tuning at home at a reasonable cost? Thanks again!
What does the corresponding THD plot look like at that SPL level? The THD plot will give some insight into what frequency range is safe to boost by DSP...
I wasn't trying to do too much with my measurement hence the disclaimer that it was an in-room measurment. I think Brent Butterworth did CEA 2010 measurements on the OSD SS8 (non DSP model) which I would assume would measure similarly. On my UA-cam community post, I shared a link to an online spreadsheet with the results from many subs including that one. I can tell you that I turned it to the point of audible distortion and quickly turned it back down and that's the point I'm showing here. I was using full-range pink noise as my signal. There could have been some other harmonics that I didn't notice. From my experience DSP'ing subs, you have to be willing to lose a good amount of SPL in order to lower the -3dB point while maintaining a flat response. A small sub like this doesn't have a ton of overhead to begin with. That's why I recommended multiple subs close to your listening position, or bigger subs if you can do it. I always have to remind myself that even the tiny driver in a headphone can hit below 20hz. What matters is how loud and how close do you have to be.
Thanks. Flipping over to REW's THD graph at that point of audible distortion could be revealing, and tell you how sensitive you are to distortion at lower frequencies :-). I tend to design around a 10% THD in passband distortion as a reference, so I use that for comparing SPL capability from subwoofers. To measure, I basically increase the output a dB at a time until REW says that THD is past 10% in the passband, and measure the SPL at that point.
I was using RTA not a sweep at that moment so no THD measurements. I did a sweep for the video so people could hear it. I figured that would make more sense than playing pink noise.
Hey Joe this would be a great choice for people in apartments. Especially if it is smaller. I think that I am going to pick one up, and put it under the couch,
It can definitely do over 100dB. It just depends on what frequency. My measurements were in-room, so they are far from ideal, but I just wanted an idea what was happening in my room. I just want to be clear about that. Everyone's room is different, and I'm sure an outdoor ground plane measurement or other pseudo-anechoic measurement might show different results for max SPL at certain frequencies.
All this time and somehow I never knew there was a subwoofer leaderboard to go with the speaker and headphones leaderboards? Walks away , hanging his head in shame.
I heard these subwoofers go down to 8 Hz if you have 16 of them but only if you mount all of them them on the ceiling 😂🤣😅. They borrowed the technology from KEF
The OSD DSP 8" subwoofer is absolutely horrible the resonance or cabinet rattle is overthetop. However you get what you pay for. For me hearing any cabinet rattle when playing music ruins my day.
*🔥$50 off while supplies last! CODE: 50offss8*
Buy the OSD SS8 DSP on OutdoorSpeakerDepot: bit.ly/OSDSS8DSP-OSD
Who thinks I should do a giveaway of this sub? Comment below within 24 hours of me posting this?
Buy the OSD SS8 DSP on Amazon: bit.ly/OSDSS8DSP
Disclaimer: OSD Audio is a channel sponsor. I am allowed to say whatever I want about their products without previous review from them. This product was sent to me free for review.
The Affiliate links above earn me a commission if you purchase using those links. This is at no additional cost to you.
YES! Obviously you should give one away...to ME :-)
This will be perfect for playing games and watching movies on your computers, you can place them vertically, lowest price with app control DSP subwoofers
Yeah that's a good idea too! I should've mentioned it could be good for use at a computer.
@@joentell Just got my Dali Spektor 1 speakers for my computer setup, thinking I need a little sub to fill these out and this video pops up! Hard to pass up at $150 with your coupon code. I don't need slamming bass, I have a 12" in the corner of my theater setup. For a small computer desk setup I think this will be perfect! Any chance you could detail the DSP app, is it iOS only? I can't seem to find it in the Google Play store, may have to borrow an iPad to set this up. Thanks!
Look up iWoofer. There's iWoofer Pro on iOS that lets you do room calibration with the built-in mic on the iPhone or iPad.
I have an 8" sub from a car install given to me thooked up into a sub input on a small SHARP sound system, and man it really kicks down low. Sony Xplode 1100 watt down to 18hz. What an improvement in bass that you can feel.
For my PC I like to use a small sub, REW and Equalizer APO the crap out of it dropping the dynamic range and extending the bass. If you've got the x-max on the driver it's amazing how low you can get. So I give up SPL for more lower bass. Works for the PC just fine.
Perfect sub for people with space issues.
That's right. Some bass is better than no bass imo.
Or significant other issues. I like big boxes, but sadly she doesn't as much. 😭😭😭
I know some old ladies that would giggle at your comment ColdCraze.
Got the Monoprice 10'' it is Great. Just needed a little lower mid bump on the left channel, Emotiva 12" on the right. Best, D.
That's an interesting method for determining the -3dB point. Typically you'd measure 3dB down from your flat passband (in your case 50-200hz) which would put your -3dB point at a much more realistic 45hz range.
I'm trying to find info on if there's a standardized method for doing this properly. I've been told numerous ways from using 1khz as a reference point, not good because companies cheat and apply a big bass boost to get a lower relative -3dB frequency.
What is the source of your method? I'm always looking to improve my methods.
@@joentell you find the average response within the passband, in other words, the average level within the "flat" range. For this sub, you can see that it's flat from about 50hz to 200hz. The average level within that range is your reference level, and you'll find the -3dB point relative to that. Based on your graph, this sub will be around the 47hz range, which is honestly not bad for an inexpensive 8" sub.
I'm asking what the source of your method is. Not saying it's wrong, just trying to find out if there's a standard.
I'm going based on what the RTA is saying the average dB (C-weighted) is for the range of the speaker. I'm asking Erin from Erin's Audio Corner and Brent Butterworth to get some insight. I don't mind being wrong, but I don't want to continue doing it incorrectly if there's a more established way.
I'm looking at KEF's KC62 white paper and their +-3dB at 11hz claim. They seem to be using a method similar to mine to determine that. In the end, it's just a number to me and I just want to be consistent in my reviews and with others.
@@joentell I don't have a specific source. It's just what a +/- 3dB specification means. I'm an EE and deal with signal measurements all the time. It's a very standard way of constraining a frequency-based signal.
I appreciate you taking the time to teach me. Would you mind taking a look at this KEF KC62 white paper and tell me how they're arriving at their 11hz +-3dB spec? Are they also not using your proposed method? KEF is known for being engineering oriented in their design philosophy. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=assets.kef.com/pdf_doc/KC62/KC62_White_paper.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjA5a6e5rjvAhX-GDQIHe3KBRAQFjAAegQIBRAC&usg=AOvVaw2cP0OANCO-IIB_paMwH79L&cshid=1616034669909
I've overlayed a grid to see exactly where it's flat on the green line which is 76dB. 11hz looks to be at 68dB.
Pretty cool versatile little sub. Maybe for a bedroom system.
This may a dumb question given the detail of the video, but I’m new to ALL audio terminology, so want to be sure! Does this sub have built in amp? So if I wanted to plug in my Turn Table (RCA) and satellites (16 gauge speaker wire), this sub will power all of it?
I am liking this style of video bud. Background, b roll, format... lookin good
Thanks! Trying to improve little by little.
This is the only sub that would fit under my entertainment center. Just want to know what volume and frequency to set it on. Right now got it on 70% volume and 80hz. Having rattle but can’t hear it when I turn it down too much.
Considering it says 100w on the back it's probably a fair guess that 200w rating isn't RMS ;) Not that it really matters that much. (Ie. 100w vs 200w is only about +3dB)
That's what I think also.
I wonder how well this would pair with a set of Micca PB42x? 🤔
My dude El Jefe! It's compact and it's $149 with the coupon code....I think that would give a little extra bass that I know for a fact the PB42X can't produce.
Thanks Joe for the review! ordered this up for my modest 5.0 living room setup! Not trying for deep deep bass, but just a bit more in the upstairs setup. This Should fit nice under my media cabinet. Hoping this can supplement the RP600M. will try with double bass, and X over at 80 & 60. no room for a traditional subwoofer, was thinking in wall, until I saw this was only 4.5 inches thick/deep.
How did it go, sound good in your set up?
If I had infinite money, and I surely don't but it's fun to think about, I'd use high quality sealed large subs with speakers for L/R channel, but I might try what you suggested and combine these with a wireless transmitter all hooked up to the home theater LFE under the couch. That could be a ton of fun.
Hi Joe, thanks for the video. Clear as always.
Would it be possible to give some advice on good mic and software for tuning at home at a reasonable cost?
Thanks again!
Yes, thank you. A UMIK-1 and free REW software. I have a video about how I use those to DSP my system.
Don't worry. That was a very fair and honest review!!
Hey thank you! 🙏
Looks very similar to the Monoprice slim subs but upgraded with the amplifier in a different location and dsp.
I haven't seen the Monoprice ones, but I have seen the Dayton Audio ones that are similar. I saw a 10" version but with no DSP.
Thanks Joe appricate your hardwork and dedication to us subscribers and viewers !
This was a nice format. I like the idea of the mount and flexibility and, I haven't heard the brand before. Time to check them out.
Is it good as second sub? I have svs speakers and a rel t7x subwoofer. A 5.1.4 system in a small livingroom.
I think I answered that in the video. Most SVS will play much lower bass frequencies but are also larger and more expensive. No experience with REL.
What does the corresponding THD plot look like at that SPL level? The THD plot will give some insight into what frequency range is safe to boost by DSP...
I wasn't trying to do too much with my measurement hence the disclaimer that it was an in-room measurment. I think Brent Butterworth did CEA 2010 measurements on the OSD SS8 (non DSP model) which I would assume would measure similarly. On my UA-cam community post, I shared a link to an online spreadsheet with the results from many subs including that one.
I can tell you that I turned it to the point of audible distortion and quickly turned it back down and that's the point I'm showing here. I was using full-range pink noise as my signal. There could have been some other harmonics that I didn't notice.
From my experience DSP'ing subs, you have to be willing to lose a good amount of SPL in order to lower the -3dB point while maintaining a flat response. A small sub like this doesn't have a ton of overhead to begin with. That's why I recommended multiple subs close to your listening position, or bigger subs if you can do it.
I always have to remind myself that even the tiny driver in a headphone can hit below 20hz. What matters is how loud and how close do you have to be.
Thanks. Flipping over to REW's THD graph at that point of audible distortion could be revealing, and tell you how sensitive you are to distortion at lower frequencies :-).
I tend to design around a 10% THD in passband distortion as a reference, so I use that for comparing SPL capability from subwoofers. To measure, I basically increase the output a dB at a time until REW says that THD is past 10% in the passband, and measure the SPL at that point.
I was using RTA not a sweep at that moment so no THD measurements. I did a sweep for the video so people could hear it. I figured that would make more sense than playing pink noise.
Would of been great if you compared it together with Earthquakes model that's been around for years.
I bought this to pair with my micca ooo’s. Those are powered by an fx audio Bluetooth amp.
Hey Joe this would be a great choice for people in apartments. Especially if it is smaller. I think that I am going to pick one up, and put it under the couch,
Yeah, let me know how it goes! The price is right!
@@joentell Will do!
@@hi-fihaven2257 how’d it go? I’m looking for a sub like this for my home theater (in an apartment)
Let's be honest, 100 db from an 8" driver in a reasonable box is nothing to scoff at. That's pretty good, i've seen many 10" do worse.
It can definitely do over 100dB. It just depends on what frequency. My measurements were in-room, so they are far from ideal, but I just wanted an idea what was happening in my room. I just want to be clear about that. Everyone's room is different, and I'm sure an outdoor ground plane measurement or other pseudo-anechoic measurement might show different results for max SPL at certain frequencies.
Hey Joe enjoyed your video and just subscribed. Can you review the Paradigm MilleniaSub. Thanks
smooth bass 🔉🎵👍
All this time and somehow I never knew there was a subwoofer leaderboard to go with the speaker and headphones leaderboards? Walks away , hanging his head in shame.
Don't worry, it's new. You're still my dude!
I heard these subwoofers go down to 8 Hz if you have 16 of them but only if you mount all of them them on the ceiling 😂🤣😅. They borrowed the technology from KEF
LMAO! You're awesome!
If the specs don’t say rms, it’s peak. With 10% thd ; )
Dayton makes a sub almost the same as this one also..🤗
Similar. Not exactly the same I don't think. No DSP on the Dayton from what I remember
The OSD DSP 8" subwoofer is absolutely horrible the resonance or cabinet rattle is overthetop. However you get what you pay for. For me hearing any cabinet rattle when playing music ruins my day.
and sold out on Amazon
I told them they should restock or something. Idk. 😂 Good seeing you as always!
Back in stock on their website and Amazon.