I just installed this crank on a Rikon 10-321 and found that you need to use the included large black nut to replace the metric original block. The shaft point needs to be ground off and as in the video, the shaft cut down to a more manageable length. They also include a second steel nut which had no purpose on my saw except to confuse the issue. Ultimately it works great.
One could simply buy the crank handle from McMaster Carr or similar and install it on the factory rod. Depending on the rod or handle choosen an adapter may need to be fabricated but you wouldn't be buying extra material that's not needed.
David, the top was a bit too short to get the handle where I wanted it, and the handle was really attached well to the shaft. I thought it was just easier the way I approached it. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ
I just installed this crank on a Rikon 10-321 and found that you need to use the included large black nut to replace the metric original block. The shaft point needs to be ground off and as in the video, the shaft cut down to a more manageable length.
They also include a second steel nut which had no purpose on my saw except to confuse the issue. Ultimately it works great.
Good morning from Southeast South Dakota
Morning!
One could simply buy the crank handle from McMaster Carr or similar and install it on the factory rod. Depending on the rod or handle choosen an adapter may need to be fabricated but you wouldn't be buying extra material that's not needed.
Indeed, that's a good way to approach it. Thanks for weighing in! Best, DFJ
Why didn't you just change the handle?
David, the top was a bit too short to get the handle where I wanted it, and the handle was really attached well to the shaft. I thought it was just easier the way I approached it. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ
Replace the handle with a u-joint. The with a drill and extension you can raise and lower it quickly and it isn't even higher.
Brian, now there's an idea! Best, DFJ