The Gobelpower DIY Kit finally in action. Here is how their design works!
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- Опубліковано 14 січ 2025
- I'm not a huge fan of their internal design, but hey, let's go with it and see how it works. And if it works!
After the last video, Gobelpower got in contact with me and helped out to build this battery. We exchanged a lot of photos and text to make it clear how the design works. For me, it is still a bit flawed because the alignment of some components is just not right.
Eventually, I managed to build this battery with some more DIY work and slight modifications. It all comes together... but, will it actually work and turn on?
Gobelpower DIY Kit with 15% off. Apparently, all issues are now fixed?!
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How to compress correctly? The discussion is here, first pinned comment:
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@@powerwall yes
You can not accurately calculate clamping force from torque applied. Even things like lubrication and material of the bolt will make a huge difference: you can even repeat the exact same process on the same bolt twice and get different results.
Hey Andy, my Gobel DIY box finally arrived. All parts included and all wholes fit like a dream, seriously, even the push-down bars, lid and handles. Not a single misfit.
The only thing which really is critical is, that the cable numbering on the JK-Inverter cables are running from 1-17...means from B8 onwards it is wrong! For someone without experience connecting the cables just by number will end up with one spare (No 17😮)...but worse...if they do it like that they kill the BMS as the polarity from B9/B10 then is reversed if you connect it wrong!!!
Its important to rip out the B9 cable (the second B8 on the inverter) and proceed with B10-B17 ...
Maybe you can shoot this info to Gobel-Power for correction👍
Hey Christian - can I ask how long it took for you to receive your DIY box? Are you based in Europe? I placed an order and so far it's been a bit of a mess/farce with the batteries I ordered turning up out of the blue (nice surprise...), but not the entire order (missing 4 batteries!... I'm hoping it's not going to be a similar story with the box!!
@@totemimaging Hi, I only did order the DIY kit and checked on them several times since they did not care shipping the box with any notifications. It took more than 2 month until the box finally arrived - if I remember right. Given the relatively high shipping cost to Germany and compared to the "standard" Alibaba/AliEpress lead-times/cost a rather frustrating experience on that front. Good luck getting your missing batteries..
You need 6x 1nm
2 rows of batteries need 2x300=600kg force (6kn)
You are right. And there is a pretty huge safety margin (till around 1000kg, if I read the data correctly).
This is absolutely right and this is as well forgotten by almost every diy guy out there.
Wouldn't it be 0.5 Newton metre's per cell in the stack. What I mean is, surely if you're stacking the batteries 8 deep per column you would need more force than 0.5 Newton metre's 🤔. If you placed a piece of paper between the last cell in the column and the metal back plate, how hard would it be to remove after torquing?
Also, as those cells swell, the force will rise. This is why I use long tension springs down the side of my cells. As the cells swell, the springs lengthen, the force increases.. but by very little. In comparison, the effective spring rate of that box is enormous. The datasheet is a little unclear. It mentions swelling force only in the tens of thousands of Newtons, but it also says "it is suggested to reserve 2.0 mm ~ 2.5mm expansion space while grouping the cells." Is that as a group, or each? Either way, if you expand only 2mm against that steel box, the force will be huge. Expanding against long compression springs, the force will stay basically constant. The picture in the datasheet appears to have a single compression spring at the end, allowing for the expansion to not sky rocket the force. a rigid box with no give......
Yes, 1Nm per screw, correct, Olaf!
No springs needed. As per manufacturer instructions, 300kgf at 20-40%SOC, that's it.
Funny yet serious, you did a great job, Andy.
Thank you!
Absolutely right! I have 2x M6 with just under 2Nm and that's actually too much. I don't even get into the discussion anymore when others tighten their 6x M8 with 10Nm. Is that a wine press or a battery? Well, you actually need 6x 1Nm, but what's more important is that it's not too much....
I've ordered this kit... just waiting for it to be shipped. Thank you for going through the pain ahead of me so I know what to expect!
Gobelpower actualy just released an installation video for the JK200 named "Gobel Power DlY Kit-JK200 Istallation" on UA-cam. Just entering the name of the video since I am assuming I cannot post links. Usefull information on which screws to use where and how to connect things in general. They skip a bit of information and Andy's videos is clearly better, but it shows that they are trying to improve.
Hi Andy, the compression Plate of EEL V4 has screws in the middle and it has two additional bars welded on to make it more stiff.
Mine will be here Monday👍
Yes, thank you. I have incoming as well...
🙏 Thank you Andy, it's always good to see what the market offers even for us who build our own batteries
Yes, give many of us seme options...
I wonder if the reason the cells don't fit well is because the box is designed for 280A/hr cells, not 304A/hr, the front panel says 280...
Thanks Andy, you are always entertaining 🙂
I like the way you do this Andy! I’m very confused about one thing. Previously you were so against compression, now you don’t seem to have no problem with that. So, what is your latest view on this please?
Thanks Andy, we can all be happy that you are spearheading this whole community and that you have theses valuable contacts with the manufacturers.
At least now I know I can get my incoming box assembled😂. The projected batteries are already balancing
You may have to open up some holes to make the screws fit with this box. Took me two hours yesterday to fit all front panel screws where they have to go. Doesn't look great any more, some were out by over 3mm...
Thanks Andy, that is manageable 😉, I guess all of us DIY guys will find a work around, but as you always state, these kits are for those that don't want to mess around with adapting all the times. These kits are supposed to (easily) assemble out of the box. I am honestly glad Gobelpower and others listens to you/the community. That is not a given thing with chinese manufacturers.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia ciao Andy , ti scrivo dall Italia sono amico , di Sandro Cicali, ho un enorme, grande problema con l azienda EEL , delle batterie, mi puoi aiutare
Grazie
@@designbyt.c.4097 What problems?
@@henrywillion5471 , l azienda ha ricevuto il pagamento correttamente, ma continuano, ad affermare , il contrario, e non vogliono restituire l importo, ne spedire la batteria, il tutto e documentato, con chat , ricevute , ed orari
Thank you Andy, great video again. Don't you need the rails to stiffen up the lid when stacking the batteries on top of each other. Now it feels like the lid will press on to the cell connectors.
The lid has no direct contact to the rails, they don't touch. The boxes should sit on the outside frame of the box, not the lid itself.
Hopefully they will follow your advise and fix the flaws you've identified.
I'm pretty sure they will!
I really like the use of a circuit breaker disconnect. It makes system design simpler. I hope this becomes the new industry standard.
Agree, our new kits all adopt circuit breaker design.
Good timing! I just started putting mine together an hour ago and came back here to look at your previous video. Instructions are sorely needed, but I should be able to get by. BTW, I am using the PC200 BMS and my front panel was cut out for the display. The batteries I got only have a single M6 stud and the kit did not come with flexible bus bars...but the batteries did come with them. However I cannot use the flexible ones unless I modify them (drill and tap.)
I would use the flexible bus bars and re-crimp the balance cable to fit the M6 studs of your cells.
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaI may do that.
In a previous video of the fully assembled battery box, you mentioned that the DIY version was identical to the assembled version. However, my kit does not include any high-current fuse. From what I can tell, your kit also does not have it. Is this really needed since it does have the circuit breaker?
Also, my kit came with a EK-24S4EB flying super capacitor balancer. My cells are the MB30 and are well balanced. You seem to be unconvinced that a balancer is really needed. Should I install it or not?
And thanks, this video was a life saver, so I bought you a SPAT yesterday, although this was not nearly enough compensation.
Hello Andy,
greetings from good old Germany (today 20 degrees Celsius) to sunny hot Australia.
I am watching your Videos with big interest.
I have also a DIY Kit SR1-PC200 with a heltec 4A aktive balancer an a Deye hybrid inverter.
I can confirm that the accuracy of th srewholes are not so good. I have also recognized that the Downloads of the Gobelpower homepage are not so good. In my DIY Kit was no extra fuse at the bottem of the rack, only the 250A cicuit breaker. Ultimately, my sytem works.
Greetings😁
Bede
Thank you Andy and good rating I would given it 1.5 rating.
You are a legend walk us through this
Hello Andy
The neg leads reconnecting to the BMS from the battery need to be swapped to flatten the cables.
Swap the two negative cables? I tried that and it would not fit.
Thanks Andy
Thanks Wayne!
Screwing one bolt will messup the others since the batteries are not a perfectly stiff medium. If you want to compress them, and make sure that all bolts are exerting the required forces, use springs and compress them until they reach the required length. The plate will require reinforcement for 6000N though :)
At 7:55 Andy, Is the compression plate substantially bowed in the center retaliative to the BMS mounting plate or an optical illusion or distortion? If It's bowed, while you may be getting 300kgf at the bolts, how much uneven force is being applied on the sides of the cells. At 9:30, if the compression plate is bowed, is it bowed-out about the amount the battery rail holes are short? Back at the 4:00 point perhaps a U-channel bolted across compression plate might help.
I like that these can be stackable and also vertical on wheels. Any other box that has this?
Another banger! That's how we say great video where I am from.
Thank you!. Yeah, I know the word😅
The problem with "torque" to clamp load is you are just guessing about the friction! mU is going to be wildly different depending on the exact state and geometry and lubrication state of your fasteners and for small ones, it's primarily driven by thread friction that changes each and every time you do it up as the threadform wears and distorts!. What i would do is
1) Make sure all my fasteners have been tightened to 75% of yeild at least 5 times each to get to an even state
2) evently lubricate each fasterner with a know lubricant
3) ensure i have excatly the same hardware in the joint , ie washers etc
4) use a set of deomestic scales clamped into the actual system being assembled to "calibrate" the entire system, so you can literally measure clamp load vs torque
Of course, really, all this doesn't actually matter one bit of a low performance static energy storage application, where really all you need is for your cells to not actually fall out the box and that's honestly about it.... ;-)
A good rule of thumb if you don't have a torque setting ... tighten, a clean bolt, till it stops, then and 1/8 turn. All a torque settings is, is a stretching of the bolt. However ... smaller diameter bolts are more sensitive to stretch, but the M6 and larger you are using should be fine.
After see .5 NM I would like to give it a full turn😂 I do understand pounds per square inch. But it is what it is. Don’t over think it. Just do it and walk away!😊
You will be surprised in the next video.
I am currently building two of batteries with this case. The manual has some notes on the balance cables and where they go depending on which version cables you have. I have Version 1 with a B17 labeled cable. It says I need to connect cables B8 and B9 to Cell 8, then connect cable B10 to Cell 9 and finally to connect cable B17 to Cell 16. My questions are what connects to Cell 10 then, nothing since I now have cable B10 on Cell 9? Also do I connect cable B16 to Cell 16 with cable B17? Thanks for all the great videos!
Heya, well that looks better and it is working hope they will sent the bush bars with 3 mm holes and the correct bushbar between cell 8 and 9 and then something to put in the sencing cables to each cell
Hi Andy!
I'm a little bit puzzled about the "required force" of the compression plate.
As per manufacturer (EVE) recommendation 300kg_f (~3.000N) per cell. Since the compression plate has to compress to stacks of batteries, eacht stack would required 3000N so in total for the compression plate has to transfer 2x 3.000N = 6.000N!?!?!?
No way that this thin piece of metal hold this. But there is no need for it. You will be fine even without compression
@@ML-hf6iiI have placed 4mm steel and 6 19mm studs I I did tie them 😮😅.
Yes, correct, as we have two rows it needs to be 1Nm per screw (not 0.5Nm) to achieve the 300kgf.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia do you mean that I need to tighten the screws with a force of 1Nm? And it will be 300kg per cell?
WOW that is TIGHT on the breaker and I agree, I would not want to use that. I'm thinking maybe a cable lug with a 90 degree angle for the Circuit breaker?
Hi Andy!
Are you doing any wind turbin generators in The future?
Br from sweden.
Andy, why even bother with a battery box? I’m a big fan of your multiple battery shelf, which has no compression, but a ‘changeable’ BMS!
Why not make that the reference?
It is to give people some more options. That's why I show different ways of building a battery. Also, regulations. An open shelf may not be suitable for some regions.
👍👍👍
The gap wherethe plate compresses the cells, are the 280AH cells slightly thinner than the 304?
Hi Andy...Please can you confirm which of the two #8 cell voltage cables to use on the JK BMS ? Thanks.
both
@@Juergen_Miessmer Thanks Juergen.
Hello Flash, fancy seeing you here lol.
@@garys-half-baked-offgrid-dream Hey, this is where all the cool kids hang out.....right
@@kennyrodg Oh Balls I am in the wrong place. I thought this was the refuge for sad middle aged men.
These 2 number 8s still and I the poor JK wiring diagram still pickles my brain and pees me off.
Some intellectuals out there in the community must know why the hell they have designed it this way.
You kept the BMS leads all the same length, just shorter?
You can cut them or leave them, it does not matter.
I have left them as long as they are. I'll show this in the next video.
for two parallel rows of battery cells, would you not need 2x300 kgf?
sorry, I see this was addressed by olaf and you already
I would use a 1nm... because I wonder about settling and flexing but yeah the math seems right. Option 2 check the torque the equinoxes.
300kgf is that per battery?, if you are compressing 2 sets would that not be 600kgf?
Hi Andy, I just received v15.18 version and have been told v15.20 is being used. But i cannot find the v15.18 update for an older bms i have.
I'm confused, in some videos I see the CAN connection is shown as the first RJ45 port and on others it is the second port - so which is correct?
It depends on the BMS and which communication PCB they use. Some have 5 ports, others have only 3 ports (Seplos for example).
Those 304 ah cells are probably wider than the 280 ah cells the battery box was designed for.
The part which I find quite strange is that this is basically the same battery that Gobel Power sell preassembled
So they must have all the same issues in their factory with routing the cables and generally tricky assembly
You'd think they'd fix those issues from a manufacturing efficiency standpoint, let alone customer experience
I'll do a comparison in the next video as I have both here.
The pre-assembled one has a high current fuse. My DIY kit that just arrived two days ago does not include this. I am not happy; I purchased this box because I thought it had a fuse. I ordered the black version with the PC200 BMS. I had none of the issues that Andy had regarding misaligned holes, although I have not finished the build yet. My big complaint is that the threaded studs seem to have some dried paint inside the threads. This has caused some problems with stripped screws.
🎉🎉🎉🎉
🥇
Oh WOHW! The cable is extremely bend The copper is almost naked and nearly in contact with the case. VERY dangerous!😮 Maybe time to consider to add a fire extinguisher block into the battery? Maus Stixx Pro 10.
Cannot see copper just red insulation. It's not a great design...
Look better in hope they work out bugs. Now I work on building a battery 280ha eve battery. That set up 4s2p. But I not find case for that set up. Like to know if you know of a case. If not I stick to wood box. It good insulation. But not so good against combustibility. I guess in some ways that is funny because most people's boxes are made of metal. Which is not good against installation but good versus fires. But it would be nice to see a nice finish box. Please if someone has the helping hand let me know. Thank you
I think something like this would work i found on AliExpress:
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DcxkLgB
7:52 I'm really uncomfortable with the angles you have the cable lugs connecting to the BMS. It puts the terminals VERY closeto the metal backplate of the BMS.
I'd suggest you keep the lugs at 90deg to the side of the BMS to maintain maximum clearance (it's on the tight side even in the best case scenario), and if necessary, bend the cables instead.
In a mobile application I'd even look at using some kind of cable clamp the keep the cables/lugs parallel where they meet the BMS.
(And yes, I know the backplate is anodized, offering some electrical insulation - it's a very thin oxide layer, easily defeated by a scratch, and not something I would ever want to rely on).
I understand that what he is saying is that you only need 0.5nm, but I think this should be 3nm as there is a large spread on the plate. Hence, 3nm per screw is what I would tighten them with.
Needs to be 1Nm as we have two rows...
I dunno re: compression plates. If the batteries were perfectly stiff, sure. The forces just add. But honestly, I don't think being "low" matters too much. You do need to pay attention to the battery SOC when doing the compression, though, since that will change the force. I think the general rule of thumb is to snug the compression plate up with the battery at 50% SOC. But I aint no expert on this particular topic.
It says 15-40% in the EVE spec sheet for compression...
🐸🐸🐸
Hello!🙋♂️
I would start to question a product where so many simple tapped screw holes were all in incorrect and unuseable places.
Yes, me too. they have a lot of work ahead...
Yes it sound a big number but it really isn't.
Mine are 6x M10 rod.
About Finger tight + a 1/4 turn and she'll be right lol
Yes, M10 needs a bit more due to the different thread, but not much!
My dream is to power my solar e-bike trailer with one of them, but I need to start saving now for 5 years lol. Disability life's a bummer.
I saved a long time too to get started with my projects. Step by step and you will get there!
300KG per battery you have 2 paralel so 600kg is the sum per side
Yes, correct.
300 kg of force for one battery, but as there are two rows... won't that force be "split" aka cut in half? ;)
Yes, correct, as others have stated below...
screws not lining up because you got 304ah cells in a 280ah box
They seem to be the same size, aren't they?
compreson. you forget that need 300kg/cm², so you need divede your force by area, then you understand that 0.5Nm is too small.
Hello Andy, thank you very much for your video! I ordered two of these Gobel JK DIY cases myself and now I'm in a more positive mood again. Briefly about the JK Inverter BMS: I have hardware 15.XA and firmware 15.10, just like you. Bought from Minerals/Ali. When I update the firmware, exactly when I click on the update start button in the JK Monitor software, the BMS switches off. Otherwise nothing happens; switch on BMS and everything runs as before including FW 15.10. I would just like to update the firmware. I have no problems updating other JK Inverter BMS, only this one. Do you or someone from the community here know the problem...and a solution?
0,5 Nm kann nicht sein. Stell doch mal eine Personenwage statt den letzten beiden Accu’s dazwischen. Dann kannst Su das ungefähr abschätzen. Oder Du klemmst die Wage zwischen zwei Bretter zum testen.
So, what is the right answer? 300kgf does not seem much. It's less force than a wheel of my car puts on the road. Far less...
That's exactly what I have done, to check the force of my clamp (Schraubzwinge).
During test off capacity of the new cells I have applied the 300 kg force to each single cell via strong plywood and rubber pads. With one of my old fashioned clamps I have achieved the force hardly.
The treat of the clamp has a pitch of 3mm per turn. The M6 rod has only 1mm. Therefore the required torque is much lower with the M6 rods.
You need 600kg force. 2 strings of batteries.
Correct!
You have two lines of Battery cells thus you need 300x2Kgs force not 300kg force.
Ha,Ha,Ha,all the negative stuff to the positive!
That math is incorrect, the area of the plate was definitely not taken into account.
mission impossible
That 300kg compression force is nonsense. That presumes 0% flexibility in any part of the plate which is impossible across that span distance if/when, the centre bulge of the batteries grows under heat expansion pressure. 300kg total force is purely the tensile sum AT THE BOLTS.
0.5 Nm never will be 300kg, put a scale behind the plate and take a look how far it raises at 0.5 Nm. (and is it 300kg/cm² or 300kg/m² - totally different! I asume the datasheet tells 300kg on the area of a side of the cell).
Or do you think/believe that you can lift a complete car (1200kg) using 4x M6 bolts on that plate with 3 Nm ? (or a single M6 to just lift ONE wheel?) Compare to the Nm you need to use on a carjack (inkluding positive bevel law) to just lift one wheel...
Sorry - that guy feels to be totally wrong or mixed up some dimensions.
Like# 7
🥉
This is like German engineering, design and QA confronts Chinese implementation. Friction is unavoidable.
We just need some good lube!
Older video but... I don't like that design at all. It needs a center bar and much better cable management
First?
🥈
Your 300 kg is shared with 2 stacks of batteries. Each stack is getting 150 kg. You need to double the torque on the 6 screws so you have 600 kg total, giving each stack of batteries 300 kg. Just my opinion. Oh, I see @olafschermann1592 already said this, with less words!
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