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2009-2015 Hyundai Tuscon 2WD Rear Brake & ROTOR Replacement
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- Опубліковано 9 вер 2020
- What's up everybody!
This is a DIY how-to on replacing Rear Brakes/Rotors on a 2009-2015 2nd Gen. Hyundai Tuscon 2WD. Step-by-step how-to on removing rear caliper bracket for rotor access included in video. Torque Specs included.
*DISCLAIMER: I am NOT a Master Tech, just a long time wrencher.
Car in video is a 2012 Hyundai Tuscon.
Excellent video. Just a quick note, it is not necessary to remove the rear shock, nor the trailing arm, even with the 2WD version. I was able to get them out rather easily using a 14mm box-end wrench. Granted, I double-wrenched for additional leverage and torque, but the bolt easily turned loose. For those who don't know how, just search "double wrench for extra leverage" or something similar to see the technique. Unfortunately, a ratchet style combo wrench will not engage the bolt head, so it is a little cumbersome to get in there, but beats removing additional parts.
I cannot speak to how effective this would be on a northern vehicle with salt related corrosion. In those cases, soak it with WD40 before attempting to break them loose.
A few others mentioned that as well. Whatever works is my motto! This of course is the method outlined in the FSM though.
You're absolutely right, I did exactly that and it worked
I just tried that in salty New Hampshire, and I can tell you that it didn't work for me.
My 2013 (at least on the right side) has the nut on the front and bolts from the rear, so I don't have to move the shock, just unbolt the trailing arm.
Thanks for the 14mm offset box wrench tip. My daughter has on of these, and it went pretty well.
Best how to video ever made. Used these exact methods today and it was a piece of cake👏🏽🤙🏽
Great to hear man! Appreciate the comment!
Great video. I notice this was a 2WD Tucson. My AWD does not require the moving of the arm nor the lower end of the shock. It's not very often that we AWD Tucson owners actually get a break for a change {;-)
Nice, good info!
The ultimate in “shade tree mechanics”. Working on a vehicle with flip flops on while sticking your foot underneath to hold the shock out of the way. I love it! Some of the best mechanics I’ve ever learned from were so called “shade tree mechanics”. They beat the hell out of the parts replacers that dealers hire.
🤣🤣 flip flops are must for wrenching
Hello there. You just saved my day with this video. I needed information fast and your video had it.
Thank you and greetings from germany.
I appreciate the comment 🙏
Glad I have the tools, happy I found this video, I would have been snagged when it came to take the calibur off.
Good luck with the job 🤙
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thank you
Thanks for sharing. Good to have a game plan going into this. I didn’t need to remove any suspension though. Gooseneck 14mm got in there just fine. In a climate producing a lot of rust may have been a different situation, but in the south this isn’t really a problem.
Thanks again!
And then after posting I go to the comments and find others saying the same thing.. 😂
No doubt whatever works 👍
Gros merci ! Ton vidéo à fait une grosse différence. Ça m'a vraiment aidé
Outstanding. Could not have done it without your vid. I beat the hell out of the rotor screws with a ball peen, no luck, but once I torched them they freed up. Thanks.
Appreciate the comment! And yess heat always helps persuade 😆
Thank you this is a very proper instruction video you had great camera placement too no elbow shots
Thank you! I appreciate it 🙏
Thank you very very much. I saved time and money.
Im glad it helped. Thanks for the comment!
That is fantastic instruction! Thanks pal 👍👍
Thank you for the comment!🙏
The bolt on the trailing arm is in backwards, all the Hyundais I have done the 19 mm bolt is the other way. Good video.
Yeah his was backwards
After watching this i knew what I was walking into, bit more of a chuff getting bolts back in on rebuild but job done CHEERS
🙏🙏🙏
Perfect guide thanks a ton! You saved me a good chunk of coin.
I appreciate it 🙏
Outstanding engineering Hyundai 👏
So in order to change rotors, you also need wheel alignment 🤨
No.
Very helpful video thanks for posting. I found using a 6” C-clamp to push the stabilizer bar bolt through was much easier than trying to punch it through after aligning. Without the c-clamp it kept getting hung up. Once through, 2 or 3 hits with the dead blow hammer put it all the way through.
Whatever works!
Nice video, thanks helping me to doing the job . That's no easy job, really have hard . I'm scary to doing the bleeding because most of the time the bolt breaks.
I appreciate the comment. The brakes really only need to be bleed if you have dark/old fluid. Just check it over make sure it looks good. Easiest time to bleed them is when you’re already in there working.
If you used ring spanner key for unscrew the yoke bolt you don't need to disassemble the suspension. You can make replacement by 15 minutes.
?
Can you send a link to the tool? I really would like to see what it looks like. Thanks for the idea!
Hey man, I'd like to make a little side note here. I just changed a rear caliper on a 2012 Tucson but mine is AWD. I didn't have to remove any suspension parts, both caliper bracket bolts are accessible as they are on most vehicles. Just thought I'd throw that out there, I was a little discouraged after watching this video but my caliper install was way easier than this.
Whats up man, I appreciate the note. I believe someone else mentioned that as well. I’ll edit the title to reflect 2WD 👍
Successfully replaced my rear brakes over the weekend thanks to you! Thanks for an awesome and indepth video.
Odd fact, those 2 screws and the gromet were missing from my rotor that I took off. Should I get those replaced or don't worry about it?
Glad it helped! 🙏 but those rotors have probably been replaced before, that’s probably why they’re missing. Some leave them out intentionally after initial removal. But they aren’t necessary. Their only real purpose is to keep the rotor on while the car is being built at the factory so they don’t flex and fall off.
Excellent video! You are the man!
Appreciate it!
is this the same for 2010 hyundai tucson AWD?
Is that rubber grommet on the rotor threaded? Wonder if you can drive a bolt through it to remove a stuck rotor
It is not threaded. Some manufacturers/rotors have threaded holes pre-drilled in them from factory for rotor removal, these aren’t one of them. I reviewed removing the rotor @6:00. Really no reason a deadblow/hammer shouldn’t break it free with some solid whacks. If you really felt the need, you could heat it up with a propane torch in the center around the studs…as this is where the rotor rust-welds itself to the hub, then give it some solid deadblow whacks. That should 110% free it up. Just make sure parking-brake is not engaged.
Awesome instructions!!!! Thanks bro!!!
Appreciate it man!
Thanks so much, this process applies in a 2011 4wd ? I think that yes
From what some others have said, the 4wd is supposedly setup normally, and not like this.
So how much different would it be to change rear rotors in the 2013 Tucson AWD model?
I think someone mentioned its not designed like this, its a regular brake setup.
As im using a bigger wheels now, im planning to get a bigger rotor disc. However, can i remove the back cover (as shown on 6:38)?
Broda, I have a tucson 09 with drum brakes in the back, is it possible to change it for a disc brakes ?
Yea you can, would be best to source the swap from a junker. Would need knuckles/spindles/brake components and probably ebrake cable as well. I rear disc conversion’d my ‘99 Altima back in the day
Merci pour les informations.
hey awesome video thank you! i have 55,000 miles on my Tuscon and i'm about to do my THIRD (3) brake change. i'm thinking the caliper is seized. rotors are fine they are smooth af. there is no loss in braking action or anything with 1mm left on the rear pad. tbh it would just make sense to change the pads every year than have to get new calipers, but do you think there is a hack to maybe un-seize the caliper or loosen up? is lube ok? or lube+calipers bad news? thank you homie your videos are great very well shot.
I appreciate the comment 🙏 but a seized caliper is a caliper that has a frozen piston. So the caliper wouldn’t be working...which in turn your braking probably wouldn’t be 100 percent, and definitely a chance the rotors would be showing signs as well. If you are able to retract both rear caliper pistons fairly easily while doing a brake pad change, then the calipers aren’t seized. If you’ve done two pad changes already @ 55K i would doubt the caliper is seized...but I would suggest removing the calipers and see if you can freely retract it with a pad separator or C-Clamp. I would say give that a shot, and if you can’t get it to budge then we could go over some ideas to free up a seized caliper. And if you aren’t already, I would say invest in some nice ceramic pads to increase your chances of pad longevity. Let me know!
Where do you find those tightening specs for a brake job?
Do you remember what size Phillips head socket you used to take the rotor lock screws out?
I believe it was a PH2 IIRC.
Torque specs for front wheel brakes 2005 GLS Model?
This my second video of yours I've seen. Very detailed. #NewSubscriber
Brandon The H. I definitely appreciate that man 🙏
Do you know if the front brakes also need to have the suspension disconnected to remove the bracket?
No, you don't have to do all of this for the front. The front is a normal brake/caliper setup.
What's the torque of the bracket bolt?
In the video
Darn must have missed it. Time to rewatch
Hey my 2016 nissan altima is at 56,000 miles I got it from the dealership at 35,000 miles. Randomly my car wouldn't go from stop at a light. Had to switch to sports mode and its been misfiring. Im not the best at cars so I was trying to see if that IS a spark plug issue. It didn't throw a code or anything and it does it sporadically.
Josh Lapoint hey whats up man. Definitely not a spark plug problem, sounds like you have something much bigger going on. Almost sounds like possible CVT issue.
I have a Hyundai Tucson 2012 and is been very difficult to me to purchase brakes and rotors they ask me the dimensions on the rotors because it comes in different sizes either 280 or 300 if you can just help me please thank you.
Carmen hello, just for reference, this isn’t my vehicle. However, when I did the job, the customer brought the parts, and the original rotors he purchased were too small. He had to go exchange them for the bigger ones. I don’t know what the specifics were, but I thought it was just a matter of it being FWD or AWD.
What can I do to get the bolts off if the impact tool stripped them?
This is something that is kind of hard to troubleshoot or give direct insight over the internet on, as it would be much easier to give a suggestion by seeing it, and actually seeing how bad it's stripped. That being said...there are a few things I can suggest to maybe steer you in the right direction. First off, they make bolt extractor sockets, you can find them at Harbor Freight for example. That would probably be the best course of action in my opinion. I'm a big fan of heat as well, I think if you induced a bit a heat from a small propane torch and use an extractor socket, you would probably get it off with minimal effort. But some other methods you could try would be maybe using a standard socket instead of metric, sometimes this will work to help offset the size loss from it being stripped. If it was stripped with a 6 point socket, you could try a 12-point socket to potentially help get it back on the head of the bolt to give it that grab you need. Sometimes you might have to sacrifice a socket and hammer it on to the head when utilizing one of these methods. And if all else fails, you could always take an acetylene torch to it glow it up red and it would probably fire right out as long as you can get some socket or wrench on the head of the bolt.
Good video only thing is you should always compress the suspension before torquing suspension bushings.
I answered this is another comment...but I would agree its best practice, but its not always accessible to do especially from the ground, and you can definitely get away without doing it. As long as everything is back together and your are torquing while everything is in orientation (I.E.: not torquing one bolt with the control arm hanging off), you should be fine.
You don’t have to put the wheel on so it should be accessible from the ground. Just put Jack stand under control arm then lower the vehicle till the Jack is not supporting the car. You’re putting twice the stress on the bushing by not setting them for ride height.
@@starter_hart79 TBH, when i first started wrenching many years ago I was obsessed with torquing everything to spec and ensuring everything was done EXACTLY to the FSM methods/specifications. I’ve contorted myself under cars many times with the wheel on the ground to torque bolts while it was was pre-loaded, put a jack under the tire (while it was supported on stands) to create a pre-load, and supported the control arm with both a jack or jack stand as you mentioned, to create that load. Done it all. But IMO, I’ve come to realize most of the time it doesn’t matter as long as everything is back in its original orientation. Back in those days when I was overly obsessed, my next door neighbor was a 20+ year master mechanic, and he use to stop over from time to time when I was out in the garage and give me shit just for trying so hard and caring so much about it being done exactly to specification. I also have a couple good friends that are way more experienced mechanics than me with the supporting certifications to match, and to this day will still laugh at me for going so out of my way to even obtain torque specs and torque bolts to spec, let a lone pre-load the suspension. But as you can see, I’m still a fan of my torque specs. If you really familiarize yourself with the automotive industry you’ll come to realize most shops and dealers tighten everything just hanging on the lift, not pre-loaded, hell...most of the time probably not even torquing anything to spec. Few ugga-duggas while hanging in the air...drop it, and the customer is on their way. Like I said definitely best practice, but as long as everything is assembled back in orientation, from my experiences it really doesn’t matter. And just to dig a little deeper, my first project car I turned literally almost every bolt on....I torqued components/bolts both under load and not, and the floor pan rusted out before any OEM bushing gave out. Never noticed a difference in feel either, doing it both ways. So overall, I’m certainly not opposed to it being done under load, as that is the best practice and what every book would tell you to do, but can you can most definitely do it successfully without causing any detrimental stress to the bushings when not pre-loading.
@@starter_hart79 I found this helpful to know as well. Thanks!
The AWD uses a bigger rear rotor? Those 2014-2015?
just for reference, this isn’t my vehicle. However, when I did the job, the customer brought the parts, and the original rotors he purchased were too small. He had to go exchange them for the bigger ones. I don’t know what the specifics were, but I thought it was just a matter of it being FWD or AWD.
Hey I have an idea, why not change the shock also?
Waste of money perhaps genius?
Hello, can anyone tell me what # Phillips head that is? I've read also it is a JIS not Phillips?? Thanks
I believe it was a #2
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Thanks!
How do you install that black rubber in the rotor
Its very easy. Push it out from the front with a flat head. Install is just reverse, push it up from the back of the rotor with your hand/finger and it should pop right thru
@@TheOriginalBeeCee just did rear brake job on my Tucson 2013 AWD. I hope i did it right. What I didn't do was open the reservoir when i reset the piston. Is it necessary?
@@hybridramper-futurearmy1160 naa it definitely not. In fact, most FSMs, like Haynes and even KIAs FSM’s suggest just siphoning fluid out of the MC before retracting piston. And that’s simply so it doesn’t over flow out when it’s being retracted. Something I’ve been doing is after I do a corner, I’ll just go press the pedal and build up the pressure again to get that fluid back down after each one.
Can you show where you lifted it please 🥹
Unfortunately this isn’t my vehicle, and you cant send messages on UA-cam lol. So i would have no way too. Its pretty simple though you can almost see where I did in the video
Should probably tighten bushings when the suspension is loaded
Best practice, but you can get away without doing it
You didn't lubricate the slide pins nor did you open the bleeder screw when pressing the piston back to avoid old brake fluid and crap from being pushed back into the lines and possibly ABS unit. That is one thing I would advise you to incorporate in your next brake job. Also loctite is recommended for the caliper bolts, usually orange but blue would be better than nothing. I've seen bolts back out due to harmonic vibrations and heat cycles.
Slide pins = @18:30
Bleeder screw = I’m not opposed, although personally....I’ve never done that on countless brake jobs on both personal and customer vehicles, with 0 issues. You do have to be careful with a full MC reservoir and totally used pads (when changing pads), that you don't compress the calipers and overflow the reservoir, as of course it can start spewing out of the MC. When you compress the piston, the pressure causes fluid to flow through the system and ends up filling the brake fluid reservoir. The ABS system is just really just an electrical controlled pump. Its not like the system is being electrically activated "on" and you have opposite pressures fighting each other. In reality, if the fluid is being maintained as it should be...it is not necessary....and I......including many other mechanics and DIY’ers, do not open the bleed screw when compressing caliper pistons. You can find a ton of mixed opinions on this from a quick search supporting either theory. But IMO, I think the idea of debris getting pushed back into the ABS unit and causing problems is a little exaggerated. Could it happen? I mean with cars, really anything is possible. But the real solution is to just bleed the brakes ocassionally. For a pad job I don't think I've ever noticed anyone open a bleeder to compress pistons. It's not mentioned in any factory service manual that I've seen....including the one for this vehicle, nor any Haynes manual. In fact, usually they tell you to siphon brake fluid from the master cylinder in case of a high fluid level in the MC, to prevent overflowing as I mentioned. But like I said, I’m not opposed. If it makes you feel better, go for it. But best practice would be to bleed/flush the brakes at pad change anyway. But that's another thing that usually gets under-minded. But if the fluid is being maintained or bled, as it was in this particular vehicle...as it should be...then this shouldn’t be a concern.
Loctite = not necessary. Again, if it makes you feel better go for it. But if you are torquing the bolts to spec as they should be, this really shouldn’t be an issue on any normal commuter car. In fact, most caliper bolts from the factory don’t have any type of loctite or additive. Off the top of my head I can recall a few select American vehicles that had a small amount on a couple threads.
Easy but for those 2 screws.
You wasted your time going to all that work to drop that swing arm . I got to that tricky bolt with a 14 ml ring spanner with a small piece of iron bar to go over the end of the spanner for extra leverage . Off in seconds. But it does take some skill with a spanner, which I must say I have.
Ratchet wrenches and power tools are not always the best solution. Also if you use a power wrench to do up your wheel nuts . Good luck getting your wheel off on the side of the road when you get a flat
Personally I hate impact wrenches and avoid wherever possible.
😂
I wondered if there was enough room to clear the bolt with a through ratchet type. Not that removing two bolts would be a big deal but not having to mess with parts unnecessarily in the rust belt is always a good idea...impacts have their own place and if you're doing this day in day out you're saving your body from wear and tear.
Now I think about it, if the bolts are being very difficult you may have to remove the swing arm.
New front end alignment recommended.
Why are we aligning the front end when working on the rear? Lol
@@TheOriginalBeeCee good point. Rear alignment and front alignment. Point is takind it apart the way you did probably calls for a new alignment assuming you did both rear brakes
@@pixelpadre lol. But yes, anytime a suspension component is dis-assembled, replaced, etc, it is best practice to have the vehicles alignment checked over. Something I did intend to note in the video, but forgot.
do not take anything off ( 2:15 ) use a 14m swan neck spanner
Someone else mentioned this as well. I’m all for whatever works! This is the “by the book” method outlined with torque specs. I tested a variety of wrenches when doing this job, nothing fit. Dont have a spanner set. Only spanners I own came with aftermarket Coilovers for perch adjustment. I would be interested in trying it though if I do one of these dumb Kia/Hyundai designs again.
I bought pad very very TIGHT