My 1965 Epiphone Texan FT79 n, came with a Brazilian rosewood bridge. But it has that adjustable saddle. I removed the saddle and made a tightly fitting rosewood plug and carefully fit it. Then routed it for a bone saddle. I can't believe the difference in the sound now. I love it. And the good thing is, if I ever sell it (which I never would) I can take out the plug and put all that adjustable stuff back in it. I didn't glue my plug. It was just snugly fit to the bridge. Great video and that will make a huge difference in that guitar's sound now.
Thanks for chiming in ... ! I have been swapping out these adjustable saddles for years. Sometimes I'll do the reversible-mod ( no glue ) like you mentioned; other times I'll glue and re-router .. or in this case, make a whole new replacement bridge. All of those solutions are welcome relief. Cheers MMcC
So glad I found your video ! I really like the way you work. Most of all I like your homemade tools. I find myself fashioning my own tools to get the job done too, good tools are just too expensive today. I like your plate separating cauls, really love your heating iron with that handle, building one now. Thank You So Much. I'm subscribed.
I've just bought a 69 early square shoulder j45 and need a similar job doing on it, but live in the UK, I would dearly love you to do it for me as I'm so impressed with the quality of your workmanship. Top drawer and fascinating insight into how much work goes into what from the outside looks easy, o boy how wrong you can be. Superb, and thanks for taking the time to film, edit and produce an amazing video. ✌️👍
Thanks Dave. Many things to be considered. Steve Curtis ( in Manchester ) is the only contact that I know in the UK, who is capable of this level of detail. If he hasn't seen the video, you could send him this link ( or any other Tech that you choose for that matter ) .... this way everybody wins ! Elevating The Art ;^ ) !
@@StringTechWorkstations thank you so much for the advice, I will most definitely seek him out. Coincidentally, that's where I just bought the guitar from. 👍✌️
I’m flirting with the idea of replacing the bridge plate and the adjustable saddle on my ‘65 J50. How much of a difference do you hear from swapping the bridge plate? Is it worth the extra doing both instead of just plugging the adjustable bridge hole with a rosewood insert and a bone saddle?
Before you trace the string path from the old nut to the new compensated one do you check the spacing and how they are in relation the neck before removal? I thinking that the answer is of course YES. Just want to clarify that I watch your channel often and understand that it's hard to cover everything that's done. As always fantastic work and thanks for your all insight.
Hot Glue / Warm Wood .... and the fact that hide glue dries glass-hard ... it does not absorb vibration. For the foot of the bridge I needed a bit more " open time " as I got the clamps in place and "positioned" the foot of the bridge.
My 1965 Epiphone Texan FT79 n, came with a Brazilian rosewood bridge. But it has that adjustable saddle. I removed the saddle and made a tightly fitting rosewood plug and carefully fit it. Then routed it for a bone saddle. I can't believe the difference in the sound now. I love it.
And the good thing is, if I ever sell it (which I never would) I can take out the plug and put all that adjustable stuff back in it. I didn't glue my plug. It was just snugly fit to the bridge.
Great video and that will make a huge difference in that guitar's sound now.
Thanks for chiming in ... ! I have been swapping out these adjustable saddles for years. Sometimes I'll do the reversible-mod ( no glue ) like you mentioned; other times I'll glue and re-router .. or in this case, make a whole new replacement bridge. All of those solutions are welcome relief. Cheers MMcC
Amazing craftsmanship!
I always love watching your work. Quite amazing. Thank you for the content and the knowledge.
Thanks for tuning in.
So glad I found your video ! I really like the way you work. Most of all I like your homemade tools. I find myself fashioning my own tools to get the job done too, good tools are just too expensive today. I like your plate separating cauls, really love your heating iron with that handle, building one now. Thank You So Much. I'm subscribed.
Thank you. Welcome aboard !
I've just bought a 69 early square shoulder j45 and need a similar job doing on it, but live in the UK, I would dearly love you to do it for me as I'm so impressed with the quality of your workmanship. Top drawer and fascinating insight into how much work goes into what from the outside looks easy, o boy how wrong you can be. Superb, and thanks for taking the time to film, edit and produce an amazing video. ✌️👍
Thanks Dave. Many things to be considered. Steve Curtis ( in Manchester ) is the only contact that I know in the UK, who is capable of this level of detail. If he hasn't seen the video, you could send him this link ( or any other Tech that you choose for that matter ) .... this way everybody wins ! Elevating The Art ;^ ) !
@@StringTechWorkstations thank you so much for the advice, I will most definitely seek him out. Coincidentally, that's where I just bought the guitar from. 👍✌️
Interesting ... please say hello to Steve. :^ )
another great video always learn something thankyou
Great video!
Thanks for the visit.
I know you know it. But I gotta say it. Man! What superb work you do. Plus I learn a LOT! Thanks.
Thank you ... always happy to inspire. Cheers Sylvain \m/ !
Master
Amazing technique from years of wisdom- listen up Jr:)
I’m flirting with the idea of replacing the bridge plate and the adjustable saddle on my ‘65 J50. How much of a difference do you hear from swapping the bridge plate? Is it worth the extra doing both instead of just plugging the adjustable bridge hole with a rosewood insert and a bone saddle?
If you have the big thick plywood plate .... definitely worth considering. Find someone who has already done this job ( preferably multiple times ).
Before you trace the string path from the old nut to the new compensated one do you check the spacing and how they are in relation the neck before removal? I thinking that the answer is of course YES. Just want to clarify that I watch your channel often and understand that it's hard to cover everything that's done. As always fantastic work and thanks for your all insight.
I always use the original nut as the "template" for the string spacing; unless the customer requests otherwise. Cheers MMcC
Did you use Tite-bond glue to glue the bridge down?
Yes.
May I ask why use hide glue for the plugs rather than a titebond type glue?
Hot Glue / Warm Wood .... and the fact that hide glue dries glass-hard ... it does not absorb vibration. For the foot of the bridge I needed a bit more " open time " as I got the clamps in place and "positioned" the foot of the bridge.
@@StringTechWorkstations Thanks; I guessed there would be a good reason for the difference.
Why would not scrape off finish so bonding on a clean surface for bridge
I did.
Needing contact info have a guitar fixed. I am in Ontario.
mcconvilleguitars@gmail.com