The only way you could sell this no.3 for $80 is if the person buying be it is a complete noob and has no idea what tools are actually worth. A pristine no.3 will most likely run around $60. They're not rare enough to bring in a whole lot of cash. If it was a no.5¼ or a 5½, then it'd bring in some pretty decent cash. A no.4½ usually goes for around $80 depending on the type and condition. I found one for $20 with 3 pat dates and the wood was beautiful. The only thing wrong with it is that someone etched their initials on one cheek. Restoring old tools is a very rewarding thing. 😊
Mike, I really enjoyed this video. I have a question for you. I recently bought a stanley bailey #7 that needed a new frog. So I bought what appeared to be a new frog for a #7 off Ebay. It does not fit. How many different designs did SB have for their frogs and how can you tell which frog to buy in order to repair the tool correctly? Thanks.
Mike, I just found your channel, I love your vids on your hand planes! There are several on the tube but I found yours the most interesting and informative that I have come across!
After my father-in-law passed away, none of my brothers or sisters in-laws wanted any of his hand tools! Since retiring from the Navy and the Feds, I have recently taken to hand tool restoration.....so I gladly took his Dunlap #3. While not generally well thought of (by most plane aficionados), I felt that this Dunlap was the perfect “first” restoration for me to tackle. So Mike.....you mentioned that before flattening the sole, you should reassemble the plane to “tweak” it? So I am assuming what you are saying is that tightening it down actually torques the sole that much? And if so....as you use the plane....and at times to clean or adjust the plane...the sole is torqued again? And if so, does that require additional flattening? I may be “out to lunch” with that question....if so, I’ll write it off to the glass or two of a fine single barrel bourbon last night....but I would appreciate a clarification. Bravo-Zulu, amigo, on this video....I really like your “best friend next door” style in instructing!
Yes, tightening the lever cap does bend the plane a very small amount. But it isn't permanent. It's like a spring. When you release the lever cap, it springs back again. You want to flatten the plane when it's in tension, since you'll be using the plane when it's in tension. You only need to flatten the sole once. It'll stay flat for years. What I've been told (take this with a very large grain of salt) is that there are internal stresses from the manufacturing process of casting the body of the plane. These stresses slowly release over many years and it warps the plane ever so slightly. Once the stresses have fully dissipated, it will only need one more flattening (unless something else causes it to warp).
Very interesting really appreciate the information. You're really enjoyable to listen to. The openness with how long it takes and your 10 dollar target wage made it all the more interesting. Thank you.
Mr. Hedden. I have a request to make. I briefly told you about the Stanley type 11 Bailey NO 3 with the 3 stamped Patton dates on it that I found in a damp old tool box that belonged to my Father. After watching you restore this one to re sell on E Bay I was wondering if I could pay you to refurbish mine. I would gladly pay whatever charges you have and pay all shipping and insurance. It's pretty rough but after watching what you can do I believe you could save it and I'm gonna pick up a special display case for it. I'm not really looking to sell it but would sure love to have it restored. Thank You
Hi Mike. Nice video. I rebuild planes too. My sources are the local shops and fleas along with the occasional auction or estate sale. I sell a few items on Ebay but you have it down to much more of a science than I do. The original intent was to break even on the cost of too.s for my shop while working on props for my videos. It is panning out but I got tired of fiddling with Ebay. Fortunately the shop is paid for and I don't have shipping costs to deal with on purchases. I'm going off to watch the rest of the series. Good luck and thanks. Old Sneelock aka David Nighswander.
You can sharpen plane blades until they reach the keyhole - my brother found one while demolishing part of an old house recently, used as a wedge. The cutting edge was as close to the keyhole as it could have been, the blades owner had got *full* value from it!
Because of my disabilities and the fact car boot sales (flea markets) are often on muddy fields, where my mobility scooter can’t go, I do sometimes resort to eBay. However, it wouldn’t be for anything over £10 and not my first choice. I find planes on weird listings like plains, or listed in crafts. I bought a beautiful shoulder plane £5 and a great condition wooden Jack for £2.80 (I forget how much P&P which is a very important consideration). It’s trying to think outside the box, and I always put in the maximum I'm willing to pay letting eBay bid up for me. I never, ever, under any circumstances put in a second bid, that can easily become about winning rather than value for money. I’ve set the price I’m willing to pay and if I'm outbid then the new bidder has taken the pricing outside what I consider good value, which is very subjective. I don't compare prices to what other eBayers are charging as these are often phenomenally over inflated prices. I get some of the USA listings on my U.K. page, although you have much more choice than we do, your prices are well over the top as is the P&P. That’s unless it’s more expensive to post from the USA to the U.K. than the other way round, I’ve sent insured cameras to America for a fraction of the price of what some eBayers charge for an uninsured plane. Then in both countries the amount of times you see the word "rare" describing something that’s two a penny is ridiculous, #78s are a great example. I also think too there’s too much value given to the name "Stanley" irrespective of age, Record and Sargent are also good makes with the former being made out of Sheffield Steel. I’m not a collector, nor a purist hand tools user, I have all the planes I need except a #45 which I would only buy if I have it in my hands first and it has a good, if not complete, set of blades.
I have a bailey no 4 with the sweetheart on the blade, needs new handles. But my question is how do I tell how old it may really be? You seem really knowledgeable on this topic so I see no better place to ask.
Hey, Trevor, thanks for leaving the comment. Sweethearts were made between 1919 and 1933; types 12,13,14,15. If Stanley is notched in the lever lock, it's a T13; 1925. If a ring is raised around the front knob, it's a T14; 1929. If USA is behind the frog and Bailey is behind the Knob, it's a T15; 1931. This is rule of thumb cause Stanley had slop over if overstocked. If you watch my vid on hand plane collection, I have the info there, two. Hope this helps.
I have an old number five that's nice but the lever lock is plated and rusted. Would you recommend grinding the plating off of it if nothing else works? It has the raised rib you talk about on the front and back, rosewood handles, kidney hole, Bailey in front of the knob USA in the back of the knob, no 5 behind the tote handle. Stanley made in the USA on the iron. based on my research I thought I had a pre WWII plane but with the raised rib on the front and back edge, I don't know anymore.
Hey, Anthony. Old planes can be pieced together over the years. Sounds to me you have a type 16 1933 to the war. If it has brass on the totes and depth adjustment it is probably before the war. Rosewood handles almost guarantees it. On the lock, sand with 600 grit and up to whatever, then buff. I don't think grinding the nickel away will be so good. If it's that bad you can get deals on a good one on eBay. Thanks for the comment and good luck'. Is that John Muir's hut up in the Sierra's?
Thanks, Luis, for stopping by. The older planes have the number stamped into the base. Some are on the toe and some on the heel. Thanks again and all the best.
They have gotten to popular these days to buy off eBay and turn for a profit. You have to pick them up at a garage sell or junk store. Everybody that owns a piece of rust these days is trying to sell it for 50 dollars or more plus a ridiculous amount for shipping.
Im curious about how much its COSTING you to restore a hand plane ! You know the cost of materials ! Wire wool, paint, sandpaper, varnish,buffing wheels,electric,polish, etc. It all ads up and if you ask me you cant be making much money on it at all when you consider the costs. I gotta ask is it worth it ?
Hey, Scots. Moist everything I had before restoration, (belt sander, buffing wheel, stones and grinder) so most was just labor. Without those there is some investment. It's hard and dirty work, but I paid for most of my shop. Is it worth it? If you have nothing else to do in retirement, I say yes...
BS like he said is your time worth more than his? Do a better job and charge more then. What it comes down to is do you want a new plane for the same price or a little more even, or a real vintage plane restored with history? There isn't a ton of money in this you do it because you enjoy it
For those who want to know how old that old plane is, here's a site that will help you out. woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/
Just the program I was looking for Mike. Thanks. Can't wait for part II.
Thanks, Rick. It's coming along pretty good. Hope to see you next week
Cheers for your time keeping these nice old tools in shops 👍
The only way you could sell this no.3 for $80 is if the person buying be it is a complete noob and has no idea what tools are actually worth. A pristine no.3 will most likely run around $60. They're not rare enough to bring in a whole lot of cash. If it was a no.5¼ or a 5½, then it'd bring in some pretty decent cash. A no.4½ usually goes for around $80 depending on the type and condition. I found one for $20 with 3 pat dates and the wood was beautiful. The only thing wrong with it is that someone etched their initials on one cheek. Restoring old tools is a very rewarding thing. 😊
Your videos are great... I’m trying my hand at this ... and you’re right sometimes you love it and sometimes you hate it ...
I just picked up a no 6, type 19, for about 60 dollars. VERY happy with how she performs after a bit of cleaning up!
Thanks Mike good ideas for making a little extra money
Enjoyed this series of videos. Nice to see genuine content instead of the other channels these days. Kudos sir
Mike, I really enjoyed this video. I have a question for you. I recently bought a stanley bailey #7 that needed a new frog. So I bought what appeared to be a new frog for a #7 off Ebay. It does not fit. How many different designs did SB have for their frogs and how can you tell which frog to buy in order to repair the tool correctly? Thanks.
Mike, I just found your channel, I love your vids on your hand planes! There are several on the tube but I found yours the most interesting and informative that I have come across!
Hello, William. I want to thank you for taking time to leave the very nice comment. I truly appreciate it and to you I wish all the best.
After my father-in-law passed away, none of my brothers or sisters in-laws wanted any of his hand tools! Since retiring from the Navy and the Feds, I have recently taken to hand tool restoration.....so I gladly took his Dunlap #3. While not generally well thought of (by most plane aficionados), I felt that this Dunlap was the perfect “first” restoration for me to tackle. So Mike.....you mentioned that before flattening the sole, you should reassemble the plane to “tweak” it? So I am assuming what you are saying is that tightening it down actually torques the sole that much? And if so....as you use the plane....and at times to clean or adjust the plane...the sole is torqued again? And if so, does that require additional flattening? I may be “out to lunch” with that question....if so, I’ll write it off to the glass or two of a fine single barrel bourbon last night....but I would appreciate a clarification. Bravo-Zulu, amigo, on this video....I really like your “best friend next door” style in instructing!
Yes, tightening the lever cap does bend the plane a very small amount. But it isn't permanent. It's like a spring. When you release the lever cap, it springs back again. You want to flatten the plane when it's in tension, since you'll be using the plane when it's in tension. You only need to flatten the sole once. It'll stay flat for years. What I've been told (take this with a very large grain of salt) is that there are internal stresses from the manufacturing process of casting the body of the plane. These stresses slowly release over many years and it warps the plane ever so slightly. Once the stresses have fully dissipated, it will only need one more flattening (unless something else causes it to warp).
Very interesting really appreciate the information. You're really enjoyable to listen to. The openness with how long it takes and your 10 dollar target wage made it all the more interesting. Thank you.
Mr. Hedden. I have a request to make. I briefly told you about the Stanley type 11 Bailey NO 3 with the 3 stamped Patton dates on it that I found in a damp old tool box that belonged to my Father. After watching you restore this one to re sell on E Bay I was wondering if I could pay you to refurbish mine. I would gladly pay whatever charges you have and pay all shipping and insurance. It's pretty rough but after watching what you can do I believe you could save it and I'm gonna pick up a special display case for it. I'm not really looking to sell it but would sure love to have it restored. Thank You
Wholesome content :)
Thanks for making this video. Very informative.
Hi Mike. Nice video. I rebuild planes too. My sources are the local shops and fleas along with the occasional auction or estate sale. I sell a few items on Ebay but you have it down to much more of a science than I do. The original intent was to break even on the cost of too.s for my shop while working on props for my videos. It is panning out but I got tired of fiddling with Ebay. Fortunately the shop is paid for and I don't have shipping costs to deal with on purchases.
I'm going off to watch the rest of the series. Good luck and thanks.
Old Sneelock
aka David Nighswander.
Thanks, Workshop, for both your comments. I appreciate you taking time and to you, all the best.
Thanks for sharing.
Great info man I love using these old hand tools when working in my guitar shop, I'll have to check you out on ebay. I need a shooting plane and a #1.
A number one 😂👍
You can sharpen plane blades until they reach the keyhole - my brother found one while demolishing part of an old house recently, used as a wedge. The cutting edge was as close to the keyhole as it could have been, the blades owner had got *full* value from it!
Because of my disabilities and the fact car boot sales (flea markets) are often on muddy fields, where my mobility scooter can’t go, I do sometimes resort to eBay. However, it wouldn’t be for anything over £10 and not my first choice. I find planes on weird listings like plains, or listed in crafts. I bought a beautiful shoulder plane £5 and a great condition wooden Jack for £2.80 (I forget how much P&P which is a very important consideration). It’s trying to think outside the box, and I always put in the maximum I'm willing to pay letting eBay bid up for me. I never, ever, under any circumstances put in a second bid, that can easily become about winning rather than value for money. I’ve set the price I’m willing to pay and if I'm outbid then the new bidder has taken the pricing outside what I consider good value, which is very subjective. I don't compare prices to what other eBayers are charging as these are often phenomenally over inflated prices. I get some of the USA listings on my U.K. page, although you have much more choice than we do, your prices are well over the top as is the P&P. That’s unless it’s more expensive to post from the USA to the U.K. than the other way round, I’ve sent insured cameras to America for a fraction of the price of what some eBayers charge for an uninsured plane. Then in both countries the amount of times you see the word "rare" describing something that’s two a penny is ridiculous, #78s are a great example. I also think too there’s too much value given to the name "Stanley" irrespective of age, Record and Sargent are also good makes with the former being made out of Sheffield Steel. I’m not a collector, nor a purist hand tools user, I have all the planes I need except a #45 which I would only buy if I have it in my hands first and it has a good, if not complete, set of blades.
I read that you r not restoring anymore, its sad while i interest to have one good jointer...if you could help
I have a bailey no 4 with the sweetheart on the blade, needs new handles. But my question is how do I tell how old it may really be? You seem really knowledgeable on this topic so I see no better place to ask.
Hey, Trevor, thanks for leaving the comment. Sweethearts were made between 1919 and 1933; types 12,13,14,15. If Stanley is notched in the lever lock, it's a T13; 1925. If a ring is raised around the front knob, it's a T14; 1929. If USA is behind the frog and Bailey is behind the Knob, it's a T15; 1931. This is rule of thumb cause Stanley had slop over if overstocked. If you watch my vid on hand plane collection, I have the info there, two. Hope this helps.
woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/
looking forward to seeing it restored Mike.
Have a Jesus filled day
Greg in Michigan
Thanks, Greg. It's coming along pretty well. Hope all is well up North
I have an old number five that's nice but the lever lock is plated and rusted. Would you recommend grinding the plating off of it if nothing else works? It has the raised rib you talk about on the front and back, rosewood handles, kidney hole, Bailey in front of the knob USA in the back of the knob, no 5 behind the tote handle. Stanley made in the USA on the iron. based on my research I thought I had a pre WWII plane but with the raised rib on the front and back edge, I don't know anymore.
Hey, Anthony. Old planes can be pieced together over the years. Sounds to me you have a type 16 1933 to the war. If it has brass on the totes and depth adjustment it is probably before the war. Rosewood handles almost guarantees it. On the lock, sand with 600 grit and up to whatever, then buff. I don't think grinding the nickel away will be so good. If it's that bad you can get deals on a good one on eBay. Thanks for the comment and good luck'. Is that John Muir's hut up in the Sierra's?
Yes, I thru-hiked the 220 mile long John Muir Trail in 2014 in 19 days finished on Mount Whitney. Not many people would recognize the hut.
What's the "sweetheart" marking you speak of Mike?
It's a SW inside a heart. You'll find it on the top of the iron(blade).
Lack of in stock for new planes is driving up the price of vintage tools
Thanks for sharing love the information 👍👍👍👍
Thanks a lot, Bob. I see you too like the Incra miter gauge. Nice use of storage area
Hi Mike, do you sell direct to those that ask?
Sorry, fireguy, I don't restore planes anymore. Thanks for stopping by.
I'm looking forward to your next video.
Thanks, Steve. I appreciate the comment. All the best
wow great video... how could you tell if its a 3 or a 9, or whatever number?
Thank you..............
Thanks, Luis, for stopping by. The older planes have the number stamped into the base. Some are on the toe and some on the heel. Thanks again and all the best.
Thanks... Do you have any planes on ebay or up for sale yet?
They have gotten to popular these days to buy off eBay and turn for a profit. You have to pick them up at a garage sell or junk store. Everybody that owns a piece of rust these days is trying to sell it for 50 dollars or more plus a ridiculous amount for shipping.
I'm looking for a No. 3 to add to my collection. I'm not willing to go over $5 for one though. That's all they're really worth.
Unrealistic.
Im curious about how much its COSTING you to restore a hand plane ! You know the cost of materials ! Wire wool, paint, sandpaper, varnish,buffing wheels,electric,polish, etc. It all ads up and if you ask me you cant be making much money on it at all when you consider the costs. I gotta ask is it worth it ?
Hey, Scots. Moist everything I had before restoration, (belt sander, buffing wheel, stones and grinder) so most was just labor. Without those there is some investment. It's hard and dirty work, but I paid for most of my shop. Is it worth it? If you have nothing else to do in retirement, I say yes...
If I understood well he paid $ 13 for this plane and $ 17 for shipping. That's encouraging...
BS like he said is your time worth more than his? Do a better job and charge more then. What it comes down to is do you want a new plane for the same price or a little more even, or a real vintage plane restored with history? There isn't a ton of money in this you do it because you enjoy it
For those who want to know how old that old plane is, here's a site that will help you out. woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/
You obviously know what your about. However, your delivery, has me falling asleep. Get on with it.