To get the original disc brake to work well it is essential to do the following procedure: - strong outer cable (e.g. Vespa PK XL2, new BGM strong cable outer and inner) - loosen the actuator arm a bit and screw in the static pad with it's hex bolt as close to the disc until the front wheel starts to lock, undo until it keeps moving. The front wheel needs to be off the ground to work on it. Then tighten the 13 mm spanner nut. This is the most time consuming , but essential procedure. Then tighten the actuator arm until the wheel locks with little travel . - The disc NEEDS to float freely on the three pins. The pins are very hard. I use to polish and grease them with copper paste and enlarge the holes of the disc slightly with round Dremel "hats". NO floating, no brake performance. - Replace the static disc to a Sinter type pad (Newfren are good) for better braking performance, but keep the moving pad standard (Casa are best) for longevity. Or you'll end up working on your brake after 6 hard brakings as they wear so fast with pull reverse type disc brake.
Did this in 1969 on my SX200. When I took my driving test on it, the examiner spotted it and wasn't going to let me take my test. Until I did my emergency stop, nearly lifted the back wheel off the deck!
Nice work Rob ...... i saw reverse pull in scarbourgh 1979 ? on drum brakes 😉 . dellorto carbs amal 34mm and reverse cone exhausts ...... changed my life off came the mirrors and side panels and i never looked back ...........
Couldnt get any simpler than that Rob, its the little videos like this that help mr Joe Average the most. Onwards and upwards to the next. Oh and a happy belated birthday to you too fella, mines next Monday.
It`s easier to use a rear brake cable clamp in the hub(the lever end not the pedal). It has a wider gap between the clamping pronged part to wrap the 3mm cable round. Even then it`s a pig of a job on your own.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
love the end!!
She can make my life difficult at the best of times! haha
To get the original disc brake to work well it is essential to do the following procedure:
- strong outer cable (e.g. Vespa PK XL2, new BGM strong cable outer and inner)
- loosen the actuator arm a bit and screw in the static pad with it's hex bolt as close to the disc until the front
wheel starts to lock, undo until it keeps moving. The front wheel needs to be off the ground to work on it.
Then tighten the 13 mm spanner nut. This is the most time consuming , but essential procedure.
Then tighten the actuator arm until the wheel locks with little travel .
- The disc NEEDS to float freely on the three pins. The pins are very hard. I use to polish and grease them
with copper paste and enlarge the holes of the disc slightly with round Dremel "hats". NO floating, no brake
performance.
- Replace the static disc to a Sinter type pad (Newfren are good) for better braking performance, but keep
the moving pad standard (Casa are best) for longevity. Or you'll end up working on your brake after 6 hard
brakings as they wear so fast with pull reverse type disc brake.
As Always...Explained..to perfection cheers Rob
Did this in 1969 on my SX200. When I took my driving test on it, the examiner spotted it and wasn't going to let me take my test. Until I did my emergency stop, nearly lifted the back wheel off the deck!
Nice work Rob ...... i saw reverse pull in scarbourgh 1979 ? on drum brakes 😉 . dellorto carbs amal 34mm and reverse cone exhausts ...... changed my life off came the mirrors and side panels and i never looked back ...........
Couldnt get any simpler than that Rob, its the little videos like this that help mr Joe Average the most. Onwards and upwards to the next. Oh and a happy belated birthday to you too fella, mines next Monday.
Happy birthday bud.
Another nice vid Rob, i do like how you solder ya cables to prevent fraying. I've always dropped superglue on mine, works for me.
Its simple to solder them, just remember to use the tin/lead type wire and its a permanent fix.
Brilliant vid, that ending😂😂😂😂
Thanks mate. I aim to please 😁
@@kickbackgarage 😂😂😂👍
Excellent, vids always informative and enjoyable , 👍 up for ending
Great videos, also found this quite therapeutic as well, cheers.
Another enjoyable video, thanks.
Thanks for the feedback Ian. I think I am getting used to talking to myself at a camera 😂
Thank you
Very nice bro 😀
Thanks 😄
Just doing this very conversion now so thanks Rob......How did the work in the end? Did you manage a 10 or still back at 5 lol
They work ok. About the same as a good drum 😄
It`s easier to use a rear brake cable clamp in the hub(the lever end not the pedal). It has a wider gap between the clamping pronged part to wrap the 3mm cable round. Even then it`s a pig of a job on your own.
How was this modification on the road?
Almost works as good as a well set up drum brake 😊
Love the feminine touch , 👍
Lambretta clutch lever not working properly. I adjust clutch waier properly but issue is same what I do.
You will have to open her up and have a look at the clutch.
biggest mistake made on this is cutting the cable too short, still need a loop at full left lock.
What?
Kickback Garage not you mate... but I’ve seen a few where the outer is so short as you turn the bars it has no movement...
@@stevetowers8282 ok, im with you. Would be pretty shit if the brake turned on when you corner!
Kickback Garage not ideal!😂 seen it done though...
@@stevetowers8282 🤣
Does she watch your videos mate?
No. But she has seen the end of this one. My daughter is horrified by this kind of stuff 🤣
Kickback Garage “old” people are just not cool:(.