I used the Thermaltake hard tubing kit but I think a lot of people expect it to be a lot harder then it actually is. Soft tubing is definitely a good starting point but by no means do you have to start there
Not really, but if they made it with D5 pump and GPU block instead of CPU block, then yeah. But I doubt they will make one with GPU block again as there's more variety in GPUs now.
@@wattotoydarian9376 What cost difference is there if you first do soft tube build to check how to rout all the tubing and then once you are happy with results switch to hard tube? Obvious one is the cost of soft tubing, but are there universal fittings for both - soft and hard tube? That would minimise costs and allow for some experimental planning. As a noob in WC i would feel safer this way than going all into hard tube and mid-build realising i have not enough bends or cant really do what i imagined would be possible with hard tube.
Building my first watercooled PC with hardtube right now. Have you flushed the radiator first? Water looked a bit brown when it started looping. Found some little stones in my EK coolstream classic radiators. And the XE360 (not classic) is green inside...
I love your presentation style. Calm, collected, detailled and understandable. I don't know how I ended up here, but now I am inclined to throwing out my AIO and get into custom loop cooling :D
@@ericimi Theres not much to say - he takes the hose that was going to the cpu and reroutes it to the gpu inlet first and then takes the output from the gpu to the original cpu inlet.
This doesn't *exactly* address your point but this video ua-cam.com/video/IPnNVqoOjU4/v-deo.html uses Alphacool hardware to cool both CPU and GPU and might be of use to our audience.
you prolly dont care at all but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was dumb forgot my login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
It's more expensive than an AIO, but AIO's use aluminium radiators combined with copper CPU-blocks, which requires a very well controlled coolant to prevent galvanic corrosion and often isn't serviceable anyways. This kit I believe comes with a classic copper radiator, so galvanic corrosion isn't an issue, clear tubing allows you to see the coolant and you have that cool pump-res-combo as well, so apart from the RGB you can add your own touch by adding colour to the coolant. Also if you think about it: a top-notch CPU aircooler easily costs €100,-. 3 Good casefans easily add another €75,-. The extra cost to get this kit instead isn't that much more for at least the same (but probably better) cooling performance and a cool extra touch to the build. And like you say, watercooling the GPU is only a matter of getting the right block for your GPU, a few extra fittings, and maybe a bit of extra tube. Totally worth it if you're an enthousiast I think.
the only time you would get that corrosion is when you use an aluminum rad with lets say a copper cpu block... aio manufacturers make sure not to do this to prevent corrosion. The only time galvanic corrosion occurs is when noobs try to do a custom loop and dont know the properties of aluminum in a custom loop config.
The Little Devil PC-V10 case has a built in Phase Change Cooler system built in and comes with CPU install instructions as the cooling head can go down to -70 degrees below zero and you don't need a water cooling loop unless you want to water cool your Graphics card, the cooler unit is as quiet as a fridge freezer.
Im looking for info on how the fittings screw in, yet every build skips or zooms past that point! What i dont understand - If you connect one end into a part, when you try to screw the other end how does it work without twisting the tube? To clarify - lets say the g 1/4 takes 5 revolutions to screw in. When screwing in one end the whole tube can rotate - fine. Ok - now try connect the other end - how can you screw it in without the tube having a 5x rotated twist? Do STANDARD compression fittings (for soft tube) independently rotate from the tube?
As far as I can see. The designers of this computer case also allow the option of installing the reservoir on the back wall of the case. Above the Lian Li / Der Bauer plaque. For this you would need clamps for the reservoir. But it would free up space for a 120mm fan on the bottom of the case.
You pretty much have my system there in regards to Case, Motherboard, and CPU. The main difference is I have a water cooled RX 5700 XT GPU, as well as 3 360mm raditors, and I'm using PETG instead of soft cable. My system also uses a D5 pump instead of one in the kit.
Its awesome to see that the new version of the EK Classic Kit released on June 30th has almost everything that was a complaint in this video fixed, I just got mine and is 10 times better than this one, and the best part, its D-RGB!
I've found in specs that Classic version of EKWB components have, for the radiators, les DPI. That must also make them less competitives in cooling performances, doesn't it?
Hello, I have a question for you. I just received the same kit but the fan keeps changing speed, suddenly they turn quickly then after they turn normally. The problem is that when they turn quickly they are really loud. Can you help me ?
I have this case ( or a variant ) and am so tempted to do this even through it has a Kracken X72 in it ...yes, doesnt make sense but always wanted to put a custom loop in and with the AMD 3900X and seeing how you mount the water block in the case is so helpful, I hate the mounting of the Kraken X72 using the hook system. Still may leave 2 x 120mm fans in the bottom and have them blowing fresh air into the GPU. Anyway from one old crankky SOB to another ...thanks and merry xmas :-) edit: but maybe will go with the EK KIT 360 RGB Liquid Cooling Kit for A$679 ( aussie)
Late reply here, but I have this OLD MODEL Kit from *EK FLUID GAMING A360G* it has a similar pump and a single 360mm rad. I have a 9900K 5.00GHz @ 1.325vcore and a 1080Ti running on the loop. My GPU temps top out around 58c when playing a game that pushes my 1080TI to 99% constant usage!
@@erikhendrickson59 what about cpu temps? Im wondering if it's worth getting this, or a nzxt kraken z73? I got a intel core i7-10700k clocked at 4.9 ghz and delidded. I would want to know your opinion
nothing i didnt know already, but an extremely well thought out and presented video Kudos! id say if they threw a laing d5 into that kit it would be lovely but that pump ok i know its their made in china budget stater kit but still for EK that pump looks like an ebay special.
Looks good 👍 I rather buy the parts specifically for the build I am doing to make sure I have all the fitting I need like 90's or 45's. I also wish the kit had a bit beefier radiator, but you can always upgrade which is the nice part of an open loop.
Personally I would have disconnected the power cable to the motherboard and to the GPU before powering on the PSU to run the pump. In fact, I keep a spare PSU just to run pumps during filling and bleeding. That way nothing in the computer is powered except the pump.
Laying the system down flat on its back so the blocks are horizontal clears out the air in moments. And then you stand it up and more air pops out of the radiator or some other hidden place. And THEN you forget to repeat the process before you shoot the next piece of video ...
@@KitGuruTech thank you so much leo for this advice. I was struggling like hell why I have huge air bubble in my cpu block. Also my flow meter was barely moving and now he is a bit faster , still the pump is little slow with my 2 blocks and 2 360 rads ... the nice thing is I can any time upgrade with just better pump.
I have been looking for some exemple of loop in ryzen 5 3600 and a rx 5700 xt with just one radiator and finally I found, almost. Kakakaka I bought a kit bykski for my gpu and cpu. This kit has only one radiator of 360 mm and this brougth me some doubts about the thermals. In your video I can ser that one radiator could be enough. Tks
How much worse cooling does the CPU get after the addition of the GPU to the system? Since it seems that the CPU is now cooled with water pre-heated by the GPU. Or is there enough heating for there to be an effect like this? Would it be a good option to send the water to the CPU first instead, or have another radiator added before water reaches the CPU?
I'm sad after 2 years you haven't received an answer. I've seen setups where they have a small radiator w/ fan attached to the rear of the case where the gpu goes through before going back to the cpu. I feel like this would be ideal but I've never done a custom loop and trying to learn myself.
ok, you are exhausting from the case to the back where the drives and PSU are ? I have this case and know it has an "exhaust" in the side panel but wouldnt all the air come from out side and not all though the dust filters at top and bottom ? anyway...this video helped me a lot.........am going for a loop and was just going the CPU but I guess without GPU its a waste
@@Kizzster Have my loop setup and it is now in the XL variant and its 55mm 360 rad at side and bottom 30mm 360 intaking and top 30mm 360 rad exhausting...think that is better as also have 120mm fan exhausting at the back
I've wanted to dabble in water-cooling for years (over a decade), just never made the jump. These days it's mainly for work (software development), and while fun, water cooling brings lots of potential issues. Plus, with high-end air cooling giving decent results while quiet, it makes it hard to justify. I guess with water-cooling the GPU, that Asus PCH cooler works without high RPMs (they couldn't have made that thing any worse if they tried, seems no one told them heat rises🙄), currently have the GPU fans always on plus a 140mm fan pointed at it for good measure, yet still the loudest component by far). Been meaning to take the housing and fan off, I think it may actually work better... PS: My 1st harddrive was 1.2GB, to see a TB drive the size of a stamp (or even MicroSD) is hard to get my head around (although transistor counts are probably more insane).
Use the squeezy bottle to empty the reservoir, then put a shallow drain tray under the Pump Out union and pull the tube off the fitting. I find the plastic containers you get with a Chinese or Thai takeaway work superbly well for coolant.
I was forced into open-loop liquid cooling in 2017 when I bought the reference RX Vega... One day later I had to buy a $100 Byski waterblock for it. My wife still laughs at me with her Kraken X61 (2014) AIO on the CPU and air-cooled Red Dragon 56 bios modded with the Red Devil 64 ROM. Until then I was fine with AIOs and when I went to open-look, I still did not buy a kit, but a Celsius S36, XSPC black tubes, mesh sleeving for the tubes and an XSPC 5.25" pump-reservoir combo. Later, I replaced it with individual parts: One 240mm radiator, another 360mm radiator, a the pump-reservoir combo, another pump and another reservoir, a CPU waterblock and the already mentioned Vega waterblock. Seems to work fine with pre-mixed automotive engine coolant (used green for 2 years and a couple of months ago changed to blue) diluted further with distilled water. There was no growth or corrosion in my case, but this might be different for every choice of different components or coolant.
Would love to see a review comparing this with their all-in-one cooler. I wonder what the thermals would be considering it would be over $100 price difference.
3:44 Maybe there are two if you going for push pull config :) But IF it would be my first build I would not buy it......Why not.....only 1 reason.....the pump. I use ONLY D5 pumps and I want nothing else. Maybe a DCC for a small form factor pc but that`s it.
Leo here: I too use D5 pumps, however I have recently also used DDC after a conversation with Phanteks. Their reservoirs are compatible with DDC and they are perfectly happy that DDC can power an extensive loop. Take a look at some recent Phanteks videos on KitGuru and you will see it works pretty darn well in a full ATX system and DDC is MUCH smaller than D5.
@@KitGuruTech How noisy is this SPC pump when compared to D5? I have an experience that any other pump than D5 have rattling noisies or pretty loud motor noises, that only D5 or maybe DDC can be configured to run at pretty low rpm and be only very little audible from 1m away and still provide enough liquid flow.
@@OneCosmic749 When the pump was running at 100 percent it was moderately noisy, although cavitation in the coolant probably made more noise than the actual pump. When I slowed down the pump and fans the system was very quiet and no different to a DDC or D5. the way I see it is that EK is happy to spec the kit with a 360mm radiator so they must have a fair degree of faith in the SPC.
@@Safetytrousers Good for me that i am using it with an external Watercool Mo-Ra 3 420 Pro rad which is about 2.5m away from the PC case :) My D5 PWM variant is already like 5 years old and still works OK like new.
Nice video, I just installed the EK 360mm performance kit yesterday, it's not RGB so that's nice, looks great in my cooler master 500m , keeps my 3900x (4300mhz 1.28v) low 30's at idle, Aida64 system stability test 74°c , 40's while gaming also it replaced a 240mm deepcool AIO lol , Aida would spike over 90°c at same settings
Hardly. Stuart builds show systems, does a certain amount of modding and brings ultra bling to some impressive builds. This is a review of a kit from EK.
@@MrKZdemos they all say that ek is good, the only negaitivity towards them that I saw was people were saying they're expensive, why do you day they are bad?
basically you answered all my questions without having to ask them thank you very much sir! cheers from southamerica
Would you consider this for your first custom loop build? Let us know your thoughts!
I used the Thermaltake hard tubing kit but I think a lot of people expect it to be a lot harder then it actually is. Soft tubing is definitely a good starting point but by no means do you have to start there
Not really, but if they made it with D5 pump and GPU block instead of CPU block, then yeah.
But I doubt they will make one with GPU block again as there's more variety in GPUs now.
In for a penny, in for a pound. Straight to hard tubing.
@@wattotoydarian9376 What cost difference is there if you first do soft tube build to check how to rout all the tubing and then once you are happy with results switch to hard tube?
Obvious one is the cost of soft tubing, but are there universal fittings for both - soft and hard tube? That would minimise costs and allow for some experimental planning.
As a noob in WC i would feel safer this way than going all into hard tube and mid-build realising i have not enough bends or cant really do what i imagined would be possible with hard tube.
Building my first watercooled PC with hardtube right now. Have you flushed the radiator first? Water looked a bit brown when it started looping. Found some little stones in my EK coolstream classic radiators. And the XE360 (not classic) is green inside...
I love your presentation style. Calm, collected, detailled and understandable.
I don't know how I ended up here, but now I am inclined to throwing out my AIO and get into custom loop cooling :D
Excellent, apart from the fact you didn't explain how the loop changes after you add the GPU. Newbies may need to know.
I'm a newbie in open loop water cooling educate me lol.
@@ericimi Theres not much to say - he takes the hose that was going to the cpu and reroutes it to the gpu inlet first and then takes the output from the gpu to the original cpu inlet.
This doesn't *exactly* address your point but this video
ua-cam.com/video/IPnNVqoOjU4/v-deo.html
uses Alphacool hardware to cool both CPU and GPU and might be of use to our audience.
you prolly dont care at all but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Major Dexter Instablaster =)
Thank you so much for explaining how to start up the kit correctly. Just bought it and got it working perfectly!
It's more expensive than an AIO, but AIO's use aluminium radiators combined with copper CPU-blocks, which requires a very well controlled coolant to prevent galvanic corrosion and often isn't serviceable anyways. This kit I believe comes with a classic copper radiator, so galvanic corrosion isn't an issue, clear tubing allows you to see the coolant and you have that cool pump-res-combo as well, so apart from the RGB you can add your own touch by adding colour to the coolant.
Also if you think about it: a top-notch CPU aircooler easily costs €100,-. 3 Good casefans easily add another €75,-. The extra cost to get this kit instead isn't that much more for at least the same (but probably better) cooling performance and a cool extra touch to the build. And like you say, watercooling the GPU is only a matter of getting the right block for your GPU, a few extra fittings, and maybe a bit of extra tube.
Totally worth it if you're an enthousiast I think.
Candisa Just adding this: Aluminium does not produce galvanic corrosion. :)
the only time you would get that corrosion is when you use an aluminum rad with lets say a copper cpu block... aio manufacturers make sure not to do this to prevent corrosion. The only time galvanic corrosion occurs is when noobs try to do a custom loop and dont know the properties of aluminum in a custom loop config.
After spendig hours in the ekwb shop as a current aio cpu and stock gpu user, this is exactly what I need. Ty
The Little Devil PC-V10 case has a built in Phase Change Cooler system built in and comes with CPU install instructions as the cooling head can go down to -70 degrees below zero and you don't need a water cooling loop unless you want to water cool your Graphics card, the cooler unit is as quiet as a fridge freezer.
I feel like I could do that. Probably what EK is after. Of course, Leo makes everything look easy.
Strong video, appreciate the explanation even a year later.
Im looking for info on how the fittings screw in, yet every build skips or zooms past that point! What i dont understand - If you connect one end into a part, when you try to screw the other end how does it work without twisting the tube? To clarify - lets say the g 1/4 takes 5 revolutions to screw in. When screwing in one end the whole tube can rotate - fine. Ok - now try connect the other end - how can you screw it in without the tube having a 5x rotated twist? Do STANDARD compression fittings (for soft tube) independently rotate from the tube?
As far as I can see. The designers of this computer case also allow the option of installing the reservoir on the back wall of the case. Above the Lian Li / Der Bauer plaque. For this you would need clamps for the reservoir. But it would free up space for a 120mm fan on the bottom of the case.
you are my hero! I learn a lot from you, thank you very much. Cheers
How to build a custom loop :
1) Get a D5 pump
2) doesn't matter
I have a D5 and DDC. Nothing wrong with using either from my experience.
@@mods-qo4pr Exactly.
The ddc heatsink looks SOOOOO sexy
this has answered my question of if the pump can support a gpu block. do you think it would be powerful enough to put another 360mm rad on?
so did you find the answer?
Beautiful review
Curious: there's no drain port? How does one drain the loop for maintenance?
Thank you so much for this awesome video. I love the way you explain and demonstrate things. Keep up the good work!
Great job! Exactly the info I needed!
How did you drain the water when expanded the loop with GPU?
You pretty much have my system there in regards to Case, Motherboard, and CPU. The main difference is I have a water cooled RX 5700 XT GPU, as well as 3 360mm raditors, and I'm using PETG instead of soft cable. My system also uses a D5 pump instead of one in the kit.
Excellent comparison with the other higher priced parts.
Why did you jump to fully assembled???
Another awesome vid Leo. Cheers.
Can you use a second radiator(240mm) and an GPU with this pump?
Yes
show us how to drain it Leo!!!
Good question - answered the same for Victor Gil on this page
Nice and simple and easily put for a 40 something completely new to PC mods. Merci
Where can I buy those RAM with this good refletions plates?
Nice one, Leo!
Hi, which way the fan (blow it out or in) should be installed on the radiator if you have fan blowing in on the back and front.
They need to push the air out the radiator
Its awesome to see that the new version of the EK Classic Kit released on June 30th has almost everything that was a complaint in this video fixed, I just got mine and is 10 times better than this one, and the best part, its D-RGB!
For the pump, is it enough for two radiators ? 240+360+CPU+GPU
Because I have planned to do that
Would love to see a build/review of the InWin 303EK or other cases with distro plates
I've found in specs that Classic version of EKWB components have, for the radiators, les DPI. That must also make them less competitives in cooling performances, doesn't it?
Hello, I have a question for you. I just received the same kit but the fan keeps changing speed, suddenly they turn quickly then after they turn normally. The problem is that when they turn quickly they are really loud. Can you help me ?
How did you end up with an air gap in the reservoir if it's not the highest point???
If i want to water cool cpu and gpu so i can buy this kit and just add gpu block for the cart?
I have this case ( or a variant ) and am so tempted to do this even through it has a Kracken X72 in it ...yes, doesnt make sense but always wanted to put a custom loop in and with the AMD 3900X and seeing how you mount the water block in the case is so helpful, I hate the mounting of the Kraken X72 using the hook system. Still may leave 2 x 120mm fans in the bottom and have them blowing fresh air into the GPU. Anyway from one old crankky SOB to another ...thanks and merry xmas :-)
edit: but maybe will go with the EK KIT 360 RGB Liquid Cooling Kit for A$679 ( aussie)
What 90 degree angle adaptors did he use???
is the single 360 enough to keep the cpu and a 2080 ti cool?
The rad may well be up to the job, depending on the CPU, but the sensible approach would be to head to the EK Configurator and start there
Late reply here, but I have this OLD MODEL Kit from *EK FLUID GAMING A360G* it has a similar pump and a single 360mm rad. I have a 9900K 5.00GHz @ 1.325vcore and a 1080Ti running on the loop. My GPU temps top out around 58c when playing a game that pushes my 1080TI to 99% constant usage!
@@erikhendrickson59 what about cpu temps? Im wondering if it's worth getting this, or a nzxt kraken z73? I got a intel core i7-10700k clocked at 4.9 ghz and delidded. I would want to know your opinion
Nice video looking into watercooling my pc but on your video how are you going to drain your system there is no drain port?
11:35 - You just skipped a lot of steps which was jarring because up until that point the video seemed like a detailed guide.
nothing i didnt know already, but an extremely well thought out and presented video Kudos! id say if they threw a laing d5 into that kit it would be lovely but that pump ok i know its their made in china budget stater kit but still for EK that pump looks like an ebay special.
some 90 deg fittings would be nice
Two 45s is better tho
Looks good 👍 I rather buy the parts specifically for the build I am doing to make sure I have all the fitting I need like 90's or 45's. I also wish the kit had a bit beefier radiator, but you can always upgrade which is the nice part of an open loop.
Personally I would have disconnected the power cable to the motherboard and to the GPU before powering on the PSU to run the pump. In fact, I keep a spare PSU just to run pumps during filling and bleeding. That way nothing in the computer is powered except the pump.
Only thing I don't like is that copper isn't used in the cpu contact plate. LinusTT didn't either
whats wrong with that?
Those air bubbles at the top of the CPU block (which grew considerably when the GPU cooling was added) - are they OK?
Laying the system down flat on its back so the blocks are horizontal clears out the air in moments. And then you stand it up and more air pops out of the radiator or some other hidden place. And THEN you forget to repeat the process before you shoot the next piece of video ...
@@KitGuruTech thank you so much leo for this advice. I was struggling like hell why I have huge air bubble in my cpu block. Also my flow meter was barely moving and now he is a bit faster , still the pump is little slow with my 2 blocks and 2 360 rads ... the nice thing is I can any time upgrade with just better pump.
Great video
I have been looking for some exemple of loop in ryzen 5 3600 and a rx 5700 xt with just one radiator and finally I found, almost. Kakakaka
I bought a kit bykski for my gpu and cpu. This kit has only one radiator of 360 mm and this brougth me some doubts about the thermals. In your video I can ser that one radiator could be enough. Tks
How much worse cooling does the CPU get after the addition of the GPU to the system? Since it seems that the CPU is now cooled with water pre-heated by the GPU. Or is there enough heating for there to be an effect like this? Would it be a good option to send the water to the CPU first instead, or have another radiator added before water reaches the CPU?
I'm sad after 2 years you haven't received an answer. I've seen setups where they have a small radiator w/ fan attached to the rear of the case where the gpu goes through before going back to the cpu. I feel like this would be ideal but I've never done a custom loop and trying to learn myself.
Exquisite review
ok, you are exhausting from the case to the back where the drives and PSU are ?
I have this case and know it has an "exhaust" in the side panel but wouldnt all the air come from out side and not all though the dust filters at top and bottom ?
anyway...this video helped me a lot.........am going for a loop and was just going the CPU but I guess without GPU its a waste
Exhaust on the side is fine. I'm running top intake, bottom intake and side exhaust. It's also the best configuration.
@@Kizzster
Have my loop setup and it is now in the XL variant and its 55mm 360 rad at side and bottom 30mm 360 intaking and top 30mm 360 rad exhausting...think that is better as also have 120mm fan exhausting at the back
I've wanted to dabble in water-cooling for years (over a decade), just never made the jump. These days it's mainly for work (software development), and while fun, water cooling brings lots of potential issues. Plus, with high-end air cooling giving decent results while quiet, it makes it hard to justify.
I guess with water-cooling the GPU, that Asus PCH cooler works without high RPMs (they couldn't have made that thing any worse if they tried, seems no one told them heat rises🙄), currently have the GPU fans always on plus a 140mm fan pointed at it for good measure, yet still the loudest component by far). Been meaning to take the housing and fan off, I think it may actually work better...
PS: My 1st harddrive was 1.2GB, to see a TB drive the size of a stamp (or even MicroSD) is hard to get my head around (although transistor counts are probably more insane).
How did you drain the loop before installing the video card?
Use the squeezy bottle to empty the reservoir, then put a shallow drain tray under the Pump Out union and pull the tube off the fitting. I find the plastic containers you get with a Chinese or Thai takeaway work superbly well for coolant.
@@KitGuruTech - simple enough with soft tubing but I prefer a dedicated drain port for my hard line loops.
The only problem I have with that kit is that dinky little pump. It's really not much more than the pumps used in an AIO.
I was forced into open-loop liquid cooling in 2017 when I bought the reference RX Vega... One day later I had to buy a $100 Byski waterblock for it. My wife still laughs at me with her Kraken X61 (2014) AIO on the CPU and air-cooled Red Dragon 56 bios modded with the Red Devil 64 ROM. Until then I was fine with AIOs and when I went to open-look, I still did not buy a kit, but a Celsius S36, XSPC black tubes, mesh sleeving for the tubes and an XSPC 5.25" pump-reservoir combo. Later, I replaced it with individual parts: One 240mm radiator, another 360mm radiator, a the pump-reservoir combo, another pump and another reservoir, a CPU waterblock and the already mentioned Vega waterblock. Seems to work fine with pre-mixed automotive engine coolant (used green for 2 years and a couple of months ago changed to blue) diluted further with distilled water. There was no growth or corrosion in my case, but this might be different for every choice of different components or coolant.
Negative pressure with front exhaust. Gonna be a dust nightmare
Would love to see a review comparing this with their all-in-one cooler. I wonder what the thermals would be considering it would be over $100 price difference.
3:44 Maybe there are two if you going for push pull config :)
But IF it would be my first build I would not buy it......Why not.....only 1 reason.....the pump.
I use ONLY D5 pumps and I want nothing else. Maybe a DCC for a small form factor pc but that`s it.
Leo here: I too use D5 pumps, however I have recently also used DDC after a conversation with Phanteks. Their reservoirs are compatible with DDC and they are perfectly happy that DDC can power an extensive loop. Take a look at some recent Phanteks videos on KitGuru and you will see it works pretty darn well in a full ATX system and DDC is MUCH smaller than D5.
@@KitGuruTech How noisy is this SPC pump when compared to D5? I have an experience that any other pump than D5 have rattling noisies or pretty loud motor noises, that only D5 or maybe DDC can be configured to run at pretty low rpm and be only very little audible from 1m away and still provide enough liquid flow.
@@OneCosmic749 When the pump was running at 100 percent it was moderately noisy, although cavitation in the coolant probably made more noise than the actual pump. When I slowed down the pump and fans the system was very quiet and no different to a DDC or D5. the way I see it is that EK is happy to spec the kit with a 360mm radiator so they must have a fair degree of faith in the SPC.
A D5 pump is overkill for a CPU loop with a 360mm rad (unless you want your rad elevated several metres above your motherboard).
@@Safetytrousers Good for me that i am using it with an external Watercool Mo-Ra 3 420 Pro rad which is about 2.5m away from the PC case :) My D5 PWM variant is already like 5 years old and still works OK like new.
Nice video,
I just installed the EK 360mm performance kit yesterday, it's not RGB so that's nice, looks great in my cooler master 500m , keeps my 3900x (4300mhz 1.28v) low 30's at idle, Aida64 system stability test 74°c , 40's while gaming
also it replaced a 240mm deepcool AIO lol , Aida would spike over 90°c at same settings
KitGuruTech: "Oh no, this kit is not intended for me"
Whao sorry Rich boy not everyone can afford overpriced fans, tubes and radiators
Ok starter kit..... I prefer Swiftech though.
going to cos bout 2k ++ for Asian user.
GG Nooblet
Hardly. Stuart builds show systems, does a certain amount of modding and brings ultra bling to some impressive builds. This is a review of a kit from EK.
@@KitGuruTech Relax i'm only joking .
Tbh EK has become a straight shit company, imean meh at the price
nah it's overpriced
I honestly would rather cool my pc with sewage water and wood than to use ek parts
EK make the best parts though, where's the animosity from?
Adam Flexen you must be smoking something. Ek is the worst, go on any watercooling frorums/reddit and youll see
@@MrKZdemos they all say that ek is good, the only negaitivity towards them that I saw was people were saying they're expensive, why do you day they are bad?
Great video.