I own three of these and all are excellent. One is used with a 15" subwoofer and is wired for a 2-ohm load into this Dayton plate amp...no issues. Pushes that 15" hard. (Skar Audio VFX-15 D4 wired for 2-ohms). I used another to replace a dead plate amp on my Klipsch SPL-120 and another on a 10" subwoofer DIY project.
It works well at 2 ohms? Impressive! I wondered it it would go into 'protect' working hard at 2 ohms, but it's nice to know it's overbuilt. Thanks for the info and I appreciate the view.
This is good to know. Im getting one for a old Skar VVX 12 v3 sub i have laying around. I was planning to wire to 2 ohm but wasn't sure it would take it.
@@ZJDGaming -- No problamo...FWIW, it "seems" to push the 15" (2-ohm) subwoofer more than 300w. Acts more like a 500w plate amplifier from my perspective. But, I didn't test it's actual power output. I am impressed with it...300w seems under rated...esp @ 2-ohms.
Mine is arriving tomorrow. I was inspired by your small cube build - grabbed a 7" epique and pairing it with two of the matching 7" PRs that just landed. Think it will all make it into a 10" box.
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 looking forward to your build! If you do matching veneers, with that much headroom in the amp, you can add a speaker-level out to your other box and run them at 4 Ohms...
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 by the way, if I were a betting man, I would bet that 5 V output is to take advantage of their wave-link system. That way you can wirelessly transmit a subwoofer signal from your surround sound receiver to wherever you want to place your subwoofer. On a sidenote, I built my friend an enclosure for one of his Titanic subs a few years ago. He had a brand-new in box. He must’ve been sitting on it for years.
@@Toid Ahhh, that make sense. I'm not up on all the latest wireless means of transmitting signal. That Titanic is still putting out the bass all these years later! Gotta be close to 17 years old at this point!
Hey Chris... it's about $150 American, here is the link: www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SPA300-D-300-Watt-Class-D-Subwoofer-Plate-Amplifier-300-806?quantity=1
Whenever you played audio of the subs being driven, it just sounded like a drumroll or something like that to me. Is that just a camera/microphone effect or is that actually what it sounds like in real life? Thanks!
It 'sort of' does sound like that because I'm playing the sub in free air, but in a cabinet, it sounds great. It's a very musical sub. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Would that amp work with a driver that is 150 rms , and peak 500 watts. And 50 to 200 hz range. Or would it be to much cause it’s starting out at 300 rms ?
Would this work on klispch R-115SW sub? Its powered with 400rms-800 peek amp. Its only 100 watts less. But I hooked up my 50 watt amp klispch amp to the 15 and it worked with that as well. So 300 watts should be good right?
The SPA300-D amp would likely work fairly well assuming the driver is 4 ohms. You would just be leaving some performance on the table since it creates less watts... it wouldn't play as loudly and distortion would set in sooner. This assumes the 15" driver they use is 4 ohms, which is likely. You can tell the 'ohms' of the driver by connecting a multimeter to the + and - terminals of the driver and if it reads around 3.5-3.8 ohms, then it's a 4 ohm driver and this amp would do a decent job of resurrecting your Klipsch sub. In reality, that extra 100 watts may only get you 5-6 dB more in output.
I've ran Dayton sub plate amps for years. Seems i cant get them to last over 4yrs... You wouldn't happen to have a link to the signal generator? Been looking for an affordable one. Seems like yours does what it needs to.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, here is the link... I really like this unit. www.mpja.com/Mini-Waveform-Generator-38-Case-Kit/productinfo/35885+TE/ I'll put it in the description as well for others. Regarding the lifespan of sub plate amps... I've had some that have gone over a decade, others have much worse luck with them. I REALLY think they should be isolated from the main vibrations whenever possible. Not sure that's the issue in every case, but I bet it is in many of them. Vibrations that severe are just rough on electronics. Just my opinion, though.
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 Thank you Sir. Yes vibration is bad for all electronics. Mine have always been built into a speaker stand that sat on the sub enclousers.
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 I mount these spa300d in plastic ammo boxes! The less vibration the better,using sealed subs and remote powering is the way to go.
On the surface, it seems like it would work. Both are 300 watt amplifiers. Some subwoofer plate amplifiers installed in retail products have some DSP or manipulation of the bass frequencies, and they don't always mention this in the product specs as it isn't usually a "Pro" or benefit, but just to eliminate a problem (such as a subsonic filter to prevent overexcursion below the tuning frequency) The Klipsch product manual for the sub you listed doesn't mention anything, but that doesn't mean it isn't included. But... personally, I would take the chance and go for it, it will probably be a good match. I found the amp to be hearty looking and well made. You might consider making a subenclosure from 1/2" MDF to prolong the life of the amp, but I wouldn't consider it totally necessary. Good luck!
I used this plate amp on my Klipsch SPL-120. Works better than the stock Klipsch plate amp (which died at the 3-year point). The Klipsch sounds excellent. I did have to make a wood adapter plate out of plywood to make the Dayton plate amp fit.
@@ChrisDIYerOklahoma Hi Chris, I ended up buying an SVS PB-1000 Pro, and I have my Kipsch SPL120 stored in its box. Since I have nothing to lose by trying it out, I would like it if you could somehow send me the measurements, a diagram, something like what you did to adapt this Dayton to the Klipsch subwoofer. Thanks in advance.
I'm actually planning on pairing it with the new-ish Epique 7" subwoofer and matching passive radiators. I think it would be a great match for the 8" RS sub too, though.
Nope, it stays cool. It only got warm while running 20 Hz sine waves during testing on a 12 inch high excursion subwoofer. It seems to be well designed.
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 good to hear. im about to do a diy home theater and gonna buy this amp. do you think it can run 2 8in woofers with rms of 150 each?
@@OleJeffysGunsandGadgets I think it depends on the ohm rating of the drivers. If you can wire the drivers for a total ohm rating of 4 ohms, I suspect it would do just fine. If the total ohm rating ends up being 8 ohms, then you might be leaving a little excursion on the table. The driver really needs to be modeled in a program such as WinISD to see what your excursion will be at a given wattage. It also will show you vent velocity and total output. Forgive me if you're already familiar with all of this... I never know how much a commenter knows. : ) Thanks for watching and commenting!
I assume you're referring to the Yung SD300-6 plate amp sold at Parts Express? They are similar, and around the same price. The PE is a bit smaller on the long dimension and a tad thinner depth-wise. I've used the 200 watt (now discontinued) Yung amp for a few years and it's a solid performer in my experience. Now I've used the Dayton amp for nearly a year and it's solid as well. The Dayton has a 5-Year warranty, where the Yung has a 1-Year warranty, if that matters to you. I guess it's up to personal choice, I think they're both going to be pretty good in the long run!
You won't damage an amplifier by hooking up an un-enclosed driver. The amp doesn't care if it's in a box or not. It's true that the driver is MUCH easier to push past it's limit while un-enclosed, but it's also much easier to hear if bad things are about to happen if it's not in a box. It's fine to push a driver pretty hard outside a box, it loosens up the suspension, breaking it in, and doing so like that as opposed to inside an enclosure is much quieter as the forward and back waves cancel each other out. Besides, I'm doing it so you don't have to. 🙂
I own three of these and all are excellent. One is used with a 15" subwoofer and is wired for a 2-ohm load into this Dayton plate amp...no issues. Pushes that 15" hard. (Skar Audio VFX-15 D4 wired for 2-ohms). I used another to replace a dead plate amp on my Klipsch SPL-120 and another on a 10" subwoofer DIY project.
It works well at 2 ohms? Impressive! I wondered it it would go into 'protect' working hard at 2 ohms, but it's nice to know it's overbuilt. Thanks for the info and I appreciate the view.
This is good to know. Im getting one for a old Skar VVX 12 v3 sub i have laying around. I was planning to wire to 2 ohm but wasn't sure it would take it.
@@ZJDGaming -- No problamo...FWIW, it "seems" to push the 15" (2-ohm) subwoofer more than 300w. Acts more like a 500w plate amplifier from my perspective. But, I didn't test it's actual power output. I am impressed with it...300w seems under rated...esp @ 2-ohms.
Mine is arriving tomorrow. I was inspired by your small cube build - grabbed a 7" epique and pairing it with two of the matching 7" PRs that just landed. Think it will all make it into a 10" box.
You're thinking what I'm thinking!
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 looking forward to your build! If you do matching veneers, with that much headroom in the amp, you can add a speaker-level out to your other box and run them at 4 Ohms...
@@dcuccia another great point!
"Smells like electronics"
10/10 review 🤣
Excellent Video as always! You’re content gets better every time!
Thank you! I'm looking forward to using this amp in an Epique subwoofer build upcoming.
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 I’m looking forward to that as well. That’s gonna be a great build.
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 by the way, if I were a betting man, I would bet that 5 V output is to take advantage of their wave-link system. That way you can wirelessly transmit a subwoofer signal from your surround sound receiver to wherever you want to place your subwoofer.
On a sidenote, I built my friend an enclosure for one of his Titanic subs a few years ago. He had a brand-new in box. He must’ve been sitting on it for years.
@@Toid Ahhh, that make sense. I'm not up on all the latest wireless means of transmitting signal. That Titanic is still putting out the bass all these years later! Gotta be close to 17 years old at this point!
I run unit to 2 , 12 in summation to 8 ohms and it exceeded my expectancy. Has played a year . No complaints I build speakers, and it hits ....
Thanks for the review. It's nice to hear how it's used and that it's durable. I like it a lot. Thanks for watching and commenting.
That main transformator is a switching power supply, like a laptop one. That’s why it is small and light.
You are correct. It just feels like it shouldn't be able to be this light. Thanks for watching!
How would that amp work with a driver ratted
What is the price where it available
Hey Chris... it's about $150 American, here is the link: www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SPA300-D-300-Watt-Class-D-Subwoofer-Plate-Amplifier-300-806?quantity=1
Whenever you played audio of the subs being driven, it just sounded like a drumroll or something like that to me. Is that just a camera/microphone effect or is that actually what it sounds like in real life? Thanks!
It 'sort of' does sound like that because I'm playing the sub in free air, but in a cabinet, it sounds great. It's a very musical sub. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Can you put this in a box with the internals opened like this, Or do you need to make a cover to protect everything?
The amp is sealed, no extra enclosure is needed. I just like to be extra careful. Thanks for watching!
The amp is sealed, no extra enclosure is needed. I just like to be extra careful. Thanks for watching!
Oh ok great, thanks for the reply back
Would that amp work with a driver that is 150 rms , and peak 500 watts. And 50 to 200 hz range. Or would it be to much cause it’s starting out at 300 rms ?
I believe it would work fine. Too much wattage is preferred, you can always turn down the gain. Thanks for watching!
Would this work on klispch R-115SW sub? Its powered with 400rms-800 peek amp. Its only 100 watts less. But I hooked up my 50 watt amp klispch amp to the 15 and it worked with that as well. So 300 watts should be good right?
The SPA300-D amp would likely work fairly well assuming the driver is 4 ohms. You would just be leaving some performance on the table since it creates less watts... it wouldn't play as loudly and distortion would set in sooner. This assumes the 15" driver they use is 4 ohms, which is likely. You can tell the 'ohms' of the driver by connecting a multimeter to the + and - terminals of the driver and if it reads around 3.5-3.8 ohms, then it's a 4 ohm driver and this amp would do a decent job of resurrecting your Klipsch sub. In reality, that extra 100 watts may only get you 5-6 dB more in output.
What did you end up buying to replace your amp ?
I've ran Dayton sub plate amps for years. Seems i cant get them to last over 4yrs... You wouldn't happen to have a link to the signal generator? Been looking for an affordable one. Seems like yours does what it needs to.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, here is the link... I really like this unit. www.mpja.com/Mini-Waveform-Generator-38-Case-Kit/productinfo/35885+TE/ I'll put it in the description as well for others.
Regarding the lifespan of sub plate amps... I've had some that have gone over a decade, others have much worse luck with them. I REALLY think they should be isolated from the main vibrations whenever possible. Not sure that's the issue in every case, but I bet it is in many of them. Vibrations that severe are just rough on electronics. Just my opinion, though.
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 Thank you Sir. Yes vibration is bad for all electronics. Mine have always been built into a speaker stand that sat on the sub enclousers.
Subject an amp to the vibrations of a sub, myself i never got why anyone would do that. Especially DIY, totally understand store bought stuff tho.
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 I mount these spa300d in plastic ammo boxes! The less vibration the better,using sealed subs and remote powering is the way to go.
Are the quick connects standard size??
The red, positive is a .205, and the negative, black is a .110. Sub connectors are all over the place these days. Thanks for watching!
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 I’m using a jbl es150p and I just ordered one of these, do you think it will work?
@@zarboaudioprojects1430how do you connect it if the connection for example is too big? Can I just touch the terminals?
You can always solder the lines to the speaker as long as you don't keep the heat on too long.
I need an amp replacement for my klipsch spl 120, is this gonna Work for me?
On the surface, it seems like it would work. Both are 300 watt amplifiers. Some subwoofer plate amplifiers installed in retail products have some DSP or manipulation of the bass frequencies, and they don't always mention this in the product specs as it isn't usually a "Pro" or benefit, but just to eliminate a problem (such as a subsonic filter to prevent overexcursion below the tuning frequency) The Klipsch product manual for the sub you listed doesn't mention anything, but that doesn't mean it isn't included.
But... personally, I would take the chance and go for it, it will probably be a good match. I found the amp to be hearty looking and well made. You might consider making a subenclosure from 1/2" MDF to prolong the life of the amp, but I wouldn't consider it totally necessary. Good luck!
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 thank you my friend
I used this plate amp on my Klipsch SPL-120. Works better than the stock Klipsch plate amp (which died at the 3-year point). The Klipsch sounds excellent. I did have to make a wood adapter plate out of plywood to make the Dayton plate amp fit.
@@ChrisDIYerOklahoma Hi Chris, I ended up buying an SVS PB-1000 Pro, and I have my Kipsch SPL120 stored in its box. Since I have nothing to lose by trying it out, I would like it if you could somehow send me the measurements, a diagram, something like what you did to adapt this Dayton to the Klipsch subwoofer. Thanks in advance.
I guess the amp will be used in a project with that 8" reference HO sub? :)
I'm actually planning on pairing it with the new-ish Epique 7" subwoofer and matching passive radiators. I think it would be a great match for the 8" RS sub too, though.
does this amp get hot? the heatsinks dont seem very big.
Nope, it stays cool. It only got warm while running 20 Hz sine waves during testing on a 12 inch high excursion subwoofer. It seems to be well designed.
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 good to hear. im about to do a diy home theater and gonna buy this amp. do you think it can run 2 8in woofers with rms of 150 each?
@@OleJeffysGunsandGadgets I think it depends on the ohm rating of the drivers. If you can wire the drivers for a total ohm rating of 4 ohms, I suspect it would do just fine. If the total ohm rating ends up being 8 ohms, then you might be leaving a little excursion on the table. The driver really needs to be modeled in a program such as WinISD to see what your excursion will be at a given wattage. It also will show you vent velocity and total output. Forgive me if you're already familiar with all of this... I never know how much a commenter knows. : ) Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 thank you for the help and information!
is it better than sam 300d ?
I assume you're referring to the Yung SD300-6 plate amp sold at Parts Express? They are similar, and around the same price. The PE is a bit smaller on the long dimension and a tad thinner depth-wise. I've used the 200 watt (now discontinued) Yung amp for a few years and it's a solid performer in my experience. Now I've used the Dayton amp for nearly a year and it's solid as well. The Dayton has a 5-Year warranty, where the Yung has a 1-Year warranty, if that matters to you. I guess it's up to personal choice, I think they're both going to be pretty good in the long run!
Benson seems like a good hang
Try 15ins
Stop hooking up sub amps to drivers not enclosed , you can damage drivers or amplifier.
You won't damage an amplifier by hooking up an un-enclosed driver. The amp doesn't care if it's in a box or not. It's true that the driver is MUCH easier to push past it's limit while un-enclosed, but it's also much easier to hear if bad things are about to happen if it's not in a box. It's fine to push a driver pretty hard outside a box, it loosens up the suspension, breaking it in, and doing so like that as opposed to inside an enclosure is much quieter as the forward and back waves cancel each other out. Besides, I'm doing it so you don't have to. 🙂
@Zarbo Audio Projects the impedence rise changes the more it moves, but I don't think it would really change enough to damage it
Aren’t you aware of open baffle setups? Stop thinking you know everything you clearly don’t
What’s this junk???