The question of the day is at what frequency is the capacitance testing being done? You will get different readings for different test frequencies. The capacitor manufacturer will have the frequency at which you should test on their product sheet. With these testers, you don't know what frequency is being used and therefore do not have a solid idea if the capacitor is within tolerance.
Damn I didn’t realize they had been around this long. Would be super cool for you to do an updated video, maybe compare the various versions that are currently available or something like that. I always enjoy your content… Thank you!
It sounds a bit hokey, but I made mine easier to use by first using some dabs of hot melt glue to solidly fix the zif socket in place so it would maintain reliable contact and not move around. Then I took two 8" pin ended breadboard wires and soldered two alligator clips on the wire ends then inserted the breadboard pins into the zif socket & now the zif socket is still useable OR I can insert the breadboard pins into the zif socket & easily clip whatever I want into the alligator clips for testing and fast removal. The loose fitting zif socket plug in scenario was just a pita all the time, and if the zif socket ever needs to be replaced I can easily cut/peel the hot melt glue off and install a new one with a few dabs of hot melt again, this way the socket in the meter never wears out. Works like a charm, I ordered a couple extra zif sockets just in case I need them in the future.
I'm looking at this tester now so I really appreciate the video. Just a couple of critiques. First, it looks like the protective film is still on the front of the device. Find a corner and lift that off :) Second, I wouldn't use the bare IDE sockets. The ZIF is suppose to be the sacrificial part. There is an insertion rating on those IDEs and you won't like the number if I mention it. If the fitment is bothering you I would find a square pin long tail socket to take the place of the ZIF. Like a wire wrap socket. Stuff that in there and stuff the ZIF into that. Also I believe the test button is dual purpose. Once it's booted, push it again to test another part after you pull one out or to retest the same part. Last, the missing components section looks like an unpopulated boost converter. If you look at the battery compartment there are slots for AA tabs to come through the rear. It's likely optioned somewhere in a 2x AA variant with a boost converter and been converted in this model to save component cost. Thanks again for the leg work!
Yes, definitely should use the provided ZIF connector. Makes it much easier to accommodate component leads of various sizes without risking damage to the built in connector from thick leads or a poor connection from very thin leads.
when i turn mine on the battery voltage reads 7.1v even though its a new battery . dont know if this makes a difference , and a 470uf cap reads 66470uf ??? any ideas why
This meter has proven to be reliable with all my checks except for one reading on a small cap. A 10uf 50 v cap is reading 9710 nF on the Tester with no decimals. Is it possible that its not putting the decimal in there? On my expensive multi meter, I'm getting a capacitance of 9.9 n F.
I don´t know why, but my tester death. Do you know where can I download the firmware. The ATMEL 328 is the problem, I fix it, and I just need the program.
I just saw a exact one on ebay with color display and more info on the display itself with test hooks.. Called (B1 Color 1.8" TFT ESR Transistor Resistor Diode Capacitor Mosfet Tester w/ hook)
You got ripped man. I got mine for under 25 USD. These are sold under many brands. Yours has a bit wider screen but same program etc. I do wonder why they are obsessed with the transformers (lol named mine Optimus prime for obvious reasons) not a bad tester for the price. They'll get you by and in the general direction of a pro. Unit of course you get what you pay for(in this case a bit more) Thanks for the vid. I was wondering what is inside these units.
I'm not actually sure. This VERY long thread on the eevblog forum might turn up some answers, it covers a lot of these sort of devices: www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/$20-lcr-esr-transistor-checker-project/
I brought the recent version of this tester and am trying to find an equivalent ESR table to match the readings. Apparently true ESR is better read at 100Hz than the 100khZ injection frequency., although I worked as a production tech at a xtal oscillator manufacturer with an LCR box that tested test jigs at 10MHz. LCR meters measure the phase shift at frequency instead of ESR. ESR=2∗PI∗f x C
You might need to brush up on your subtraction skills 150.1 - 149.4 is .7 not 1.1 other then that it was interesting to see how it fair against the Fluke. It 'seemed' like the inexpensive meter was more accurate but that could just be because it was giving a higher resolution answer.
I'm not sure about this particular unit, but here are some links to the documentation for the original tester that all these are based off of. Website: www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/AVR_Transistortester English manual: github.com/svn2github/transistortester/blob/master/Doku/tags/english/ttester_eng112k.pdf
Very interesting, it actually blew away every single tester that you had plus it can also test germanium transistor. Some of these Chinese testers have additional function, please try this - click and hold test button, you may have to do it couple of times to get into secret functions.
You have to put the leads of your component in holes with different numbers. It doesn't matter which numbers or which order, as long as each lead is in a hole with it's own number.
just got mine today, but the one i have has a color display...and a rechargeable battery, got it from amazon for 30 uk pounds. 56.99 Dollars. looks like it come from the same place you got yours.
It always amazes me how cheaply they can put these devices together. I'm keen to see the new and improved version you have. Do you have a link or name to search for? Thanks :)
Thanks, it looks quite good. Specifications look pretty much identical, but that one obviously has a better screen and includes IR remote decoder. Very nifty! Amazon won't ship to oz, but I found the same eBay seller stocks it here: www.ebay.com.au/itm/381439312402
Wow 30 quid! especially with the different value currency, to me that is expensive! Only 2 years later and I bought the latest iteration of this meter (also from kkmoon) off prime for less than $11 US. I believe that price must have been an error though? because the identical unit from Drok was over $30. I was looking for all over, even in component form, in order to try and buy it as cheap as possible, but then found this encased unit for less. The only difference is even the cheap ebay component version has grabbing leads included that can test components while still attached to the board. This unit came with just the ZIF socket, but again for that sort of money, however can I complain?
Look for LCR-TC1, it's a nice unit that has a built in rechargeable battery, provided clip leads, and nice color display. Very compact, even with the built in ZIF connector.
If you hold down the test/power button for a few seconds when turning it on, often these types of testers will allow you to change the screen contrast. I'll have to try it out on mine...
I think it performed very well for it's price. It's great for a hobbyist on a tight budget. But for professional use, there are much better (and more expensive) testers on the market.
The question of the day is at what frequency is the capacitance testing being done? You will get different readings for different test frequencies. The capacitor manufacturer will have the frequency at which you should test on their product sheet. With these testers, you don't know what frequency is being used and therefore do not have a solid idea if the capacitor is within tolerance.
Damn I didn’t realize they had been around this long.
Would be super cool for you to do an updated video, maybe compare the various versions that are currently available or something like that. I always enjoy your content… Thank you!
It sounds a bit hokey, but I made mine easier to use by first using some dabs of hot melt glue to solidly fix the zif socket in place so it would maintain reliable contact and not move around. Then I took two 8" pin ended breadboard wires and soldered two alligator clips on the wire ends then inserted the breadboard pins into the zif socket & now the zif socket is still useable OR I can insert the breadboard pins into the zif socket & easily clip whatever I want into the alligator clips for testing and fast removal. The loose fitting zif socket plug in scenario was just a pita all the time, and if the zif socket ever needs to be replaced I can easily cut/peel the hot melt glue off and install a new one with a few dabs of hot melt again, this way the socket in the meter never wears out. Works like a charm, I ordered a couple extra zif sockets just in case I need them in the future.
I'm looking at this tester now so I really appreciate the video. Just a couple of critiques. First, it looks like the protective film is still on the front of the device. Find a corner and lift that off :) Second, I wouldn't use the bare IDE sockets. The ZIF is suppose to be the sacrificial part. There is an insertion rating on those IDEs and you won't like the number if I mention it. If the fitment is bothering you I would find a square pin long tail socket to take the place of the ZIF. Like a wire wrap socket. Stuff that in there and stuff the ZIF into that. Also I believe the test button is dual purpose. Once it's booted, push it again to test another part after you pull one out or to retest the same part. Last, the missing components section looks like an unpopulated boost converter. If you look at the battery compartment there are slots for AA tabs to come through the rear. It's likely optioned somewhere in a 2x AA variant with a boost converter and been converted in this model to save component cost. Thanks again for the leg work!
Thanks for the comments and insight. All good points :)
Yes, definitely should use the provided ZIF connector. Makes it much easier to accommodate component leads of various sizes without risking damage to the built in connector from thick leads or a poor connection from very thin leads.
i've had one of these units for a couple of months now and i really like it , you can also test bridge rectifiers
When you tested a bridge rectifier, it gave a accurate reading? Just picked one up today.
Excellent thank you I was at a bit of a loss when it came without instructions but sorted now thank you.
when i turn mine on the battery voltage reads 7.1v even though its a new battery . dont know if this makes a difference , and a 470uf cap reads 66470uf ??? any ideas why
Try removing the protective film on the plastic front - this will remove much of the glare :D
This meter has proven to be reliable with all my checks except for one reading on a small cap. A 10uf 50 v cap is reading 9710 nF on the Tester with no decimals. Is it possible that its not putting the decimal in there? On my expensive multi meter, I'm getting a capacitance of 9.9 n F.
I bought the same one but with a colorscreen. Works very good for the money.
I have paid 16 euro at Aliexpress. Thx for this very good review!
I don´t know why, but my tester death. Do you know where can I download the firmware. The ATMEL 328 is the problem, I fix it, and I just need the program.
My big question is....is it better than TC1 or more reliable and correct thant TC1? hope you could answer this question.Regards.
I just saw a exact one on ebay with color display and more info on the display itself with test hooks..
Called (B1 Color 1.8" TFT ESR Transistor Resistor Diode Capacitor Mosfet Tester w/ hook)
You got ripped man. I got mine for under 25 USD. These are sold under many brands. Yours has a bit wider screen but same program etc. I do wonder why they are obsessed with the transformers (lol named mine Optimus prime for obvious reasons) not a bad tester for the price. They'll get you by and in the general direction of a pro. Unit of course you get what you pay for(in this case a bit more)
Thanks for the vid. I was wondering what is inside these units.
Great tool for the price point. I am happy with mine
Hello. Do you know if it's possible to update the firmware ? Because mine uses v 2.4 and it's not fitted to test triacs...
I'm not actually sure.
This VERY long thread on the eevblog forum might turn up some answers, it covers a lot of these sort of devices:
www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/$20-lcr-esr-transistor-checker-project/
I brought the recent version of this tester and am trying to find an equivalent ESR table to match the readings. Apparently true ESR is better read at 100Hz than the 100khZ injection frequency., although I worked as a production tech at a xtal oscillator manufacturer with an LCR box that tested test jigs at 10MHz. LCR meters measure the phase shift at frequency instead of ESR.
ESR=2∗PI∗f x C
Hola, como se calibra ese equipo yo lo tengo y no es asi
What comes first, fixed electronics or the tester?
You might need to brush up on your subtraction skills 150.1 - 149.4 is .7 not 1.1 other then that it was interesting to see how it fair against the Fluke. It 'seemed' like the inexpensive meter was more accurate but that could just be because it was giving a higher resolution answer.
I like the autobot logo on the sticker under the battery cover and on the front :)
Whoever designed it was a Transformers fan for sure :)
Thanks
Thanks for your video.
Do you know any manual?
I'm not sure about this particular unit, but here are some links to the documentation for the original tester that all these are based off of.
Website:
www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/AVR_Transistortester
English manual:
github.com/svn2github/transistortester/blob/master/Doku/tags/english/ttester_eng112k.pdf
aaarrrggghhhh... where's the left channel audio?
Why do you need so many holes in the test port if only 3(transistor) would be tested???
Sometimes you need to test a bigger component.
Is this device good? Do you recommend this product?
It works well, we have two variants and although they aren't a precision measurement device, they work very well for general electronics use.
Very interesting, it actually blew away every single tester that you had plus it can also test germanium transistor. Some of these Chinese testers have additional function, please try this - click and hold test button, you may have to do it couple of times to get into secret functions.
nice video... i just dont understand how works that numbers on holes...
1233123
1233123
how the numbers combinations works ?
You have to put the leads of your component in holes with different numbers. It doesn't matter which numbers or which order, as long as each lead is in a hole with it's own number.
Tnx for your reply !
hugs from brazil
i wish the display would sty on for 1 min
it runs on an 328p. it would just need the firmware modifying.
just got mine today, but the one i have has a color display...and a rechargeable battery, got it from amazon for 30 uk pounds.
56.99 Dollars. looks like it come from the same place you got yours.
It always amazes me how cheaply they can put these devices together. I'm keen to see the new and improved version you have. Do you have a link or name to search for? Thanks :)
www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Ddiy&field-keywords=KKmoon+Colorful+Display+Transistor+Tester+
there you go..
Thanks, it looks quite good. Specifications look pretty much identical, but that one obviously has a better screen and includes IR remote decoder. Very nifty! Amazon won't ship to oz, but I found the same eBay seller stocks it here: www.ebay.com.au/itm/381439312402
yea thats the same one. its a handy thing to have around..cant complane had mine for a while now all good so far
Wow 30 quid! especially with the different value currency, to me that is expensive!
Only 2 years later and I bought the latest iteration of this meter (also from kkmoon) off prime for less than $11 US. I believe that price must have been an error though? because the identical unit from Drok was over $30. I was looking for all over, even in component form, in order to try and buy it as cheap as possible, but then found this encased unit for less. The only difference is even the cheap ebay component version has grabbing leads included that can test components while still attached to the board. This unit came with just the ZIF socket, but again for that sort of money, however can I complain?
It's has to be calibrated
can it test germanium transistor?
mountainhawk Good question. I'll see if I can find one in my parts bin and post a quick test video soon.
mountainhawk Check out the germanium transistor test video here: ua-cam.com/video/tMSmudpVjGE/v-deo.html
I don't mind the rain
Good information
to bad it didn't have the clip leads with it..
Look for LCR-TC1, it's a nice unit that has a built in rechargeable battery, provided clip leads, and nice color display. Very compact, even with the built in ZIF connector.
Christ 8:22 to get to actually testing the thing.. jeez.. does it take you longer than others to order food?
No sound!
This was an editing problem. The audio is left-channel only. Sorry!
No adjust for that crappy screen
If you hold down the test/power button for a few seconds when turning it on, often these types of testers will allow you to change the screen contrast.
I'll have to try it out on mine...
Hello ... However you want to say that this is not good tester... scusa per il mio inglese
I think it performed very well for it's price. It's great for a hobbyist on a tight budget. But for professional use, there are much better (and more expensive) testers on the market.
Um, um, um, um ...
Seriously, who makes a feature film about a component tester. Get a life dude.
Sorry that it didn't meet your expectations, however you did watch and comment so thanks for the uptick in metrics! :)
No adjust for that crappy screen