Helpful and informative, thank you! Are you using a stylus to trace? You said, "sharp object" but that implies something with a blade or point and I am wondering how you keep from tearing the paper when using something sharp? TIA!
Glad it’s helpful! Yeah it’s a stylus (or nail dotter, or embossing tool). I really meant something that’s somewhat sharp like a pencil or pen as opposed to a blade. 😂 Hope that helps!
Have you had a problem with the live edge rounds splitting after you put the hanger into the wood? Last year I bought 2 boxes of rounds with hangers and nearly 100% of them split, some after they arrived.
I have only had that happen with large eye hook hangers. The way to avoid them splitting when putting in a large hanger is to pre drill the holes. If they split in other places than where you inserted the hangers, then the splitting is from the wood drying too fast (typically a problem when the wood is not kiln dried). I’m planning to do a video to show how I fix cracked wood slices to help people with this problem
I use the same sandpaper on a live edge as I do all my other wood, just don’t sand the bark. 😂 I always finish with a 220 grit. If it’s really rough, I might use a 150 grit or even 80 grit, but then I will sand again with a 220 grit. This video shows how I prepare wood for pyrography. Hope it helps! ua-cam.com/video/OJ7HsQwH244/v-deo.html
I plan to make an ornament from my Yorkie's picture. I made 26 ornaments with the word "peace" inside a wreath as Christmas gifts. One-third of them split from the outside to the center. What causes this? They were so disappointing. I ordered the live-edge wood slices from Amazon, but not all of them split.
They call that “checking” which is just the fancy word for cracking. Typically that happens when the wood dries out too fast. To avoid this, you need to order kiln dried wood… but that will be much more expensive AND it is no guarantee they won’t check or crack. Most ornaments off Amazon are pine (which can be hard to burn because of the grain) and not kiln dried. I would recommend these because I have much less checking when I order these, and they are basswood which is lovely to burn: amzn.to/3PY8wOI Or these birch ornaments which are also nice to burn: amzn.to/3i3eb9K Keep in mind they won’t be blemish free (because nature is that way haha) but they will have their own beautiful charm. Hope that helps!
There are lots of woodburning tools! I have a bunch, and this one is by far my favorite. You can get a discount at bearwood.com/pyro when you use code SAVVY 🔥🙌
![🔥Woodburning for Beginners [7 Tips I Wish I Knew]](/img/n.gif)
So beautiful and detailed for so small a piece. Thank for sharing
Thanks for the kind words! Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for sharing your amazing talents.
Happy to share, and thank you for the kind words. 😊
So amazing,thank you for sharing that video!
Thank you! Happy to help 🙌🔥
Helpful and informative, thank you! Are you using a stylus to trace? You said, "sharp object" but that implies something with a blade or point and I am wondering how you keep from tearing the paper when using something sharp? TIA!
Glad it’s helpful! Yeah it’s a stylus (or nail dotter, or embossing tool). I really meant something that’s somewhat sharp like a pencil or pen as opposed to a blade. 😂 Hope that helps!
Beautiful
Thank you!
wow fantastic, i never pyrograph dogs, i will try after see this videos, thank you
They’re fun! Hope you enjoy it!
Have you had a problem with the live edge rounds splitting after you put the hanger into the wood? Last year I bought 2 boxes of rounds with hangers and nearly 100% of them split, some after they arrived.
I have only had that happen with large eye hook hangers. The way to avoid them splitting when putting in a large hanger is to pre drill the holes. If they split in other places than where you inserted the hangers, then the splitting is from the wood drying too fast (typically a problem when the wood is not kiln dried). I’m planning to do a video to show how I fix cracked wood slices to help people with this problem
Wonderful work! What size grit of sandpaper would you suggest using on a live bark edge?
I use the same sandpaper on a live edge as I do all my other wood, just don’t sand the bark. 😂 I always finish with a 220 grit. If it’s really rough, I might use a 150 grit or even 80 grit, but then I will sand again with a 220 grit. This video shows how I prepare wood for pyrography. Hope it helps! ua-cam.com/video/OJ7HsQwH244/v-deo.html
@@BurnSavvy Thank you for sharing your talents, process! 😊
Happy to help!
I plan to make an ornament from my Yorkie's picture. I made 26 ornaments with the word "peace" inside a wreath as Christmas gifts. One-third of them split from the outside to the center. What causes this? They were so disappointing. I ordered the live-edge wood slices from Amazon, but not all of them split.
They call that “checking” which is just the fancy word for cracking. Typically that happens when the wood dries out too fast. To avoid this, you need to order kiln dried wood… but that will be much more expensive AND it is no guarantee they won’t check or crack. Most ornaments off Amazon are pine (which can be hard to burn because of the grain) and not kiln dried.
I would recommend these because I have much less checking when I order these, and they are basswood which is lovely to burn:
amzn.to/3PY8wOI
Or these birch ornaments which are also nice to burn:
amzn.to/3i3eb9K
Keep in mind they won’t be blemish free (because nature is that way haha) but they will have their own beautiful charm.
Hope that helps!
@@BurnSavvy Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. The information is very helpful.
Do you prefer this tool vs the other burning tool?
There are lots of woodburning tools! I have a bunch, and this one is by far my favorite. You can get a discount at bearwood.com/pyro when you use code SAVVY 🔥🙌