How To Install Your 2022 WRX Coilovers
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2022
- In this video we finally have our production Silver's Coilovers ready to install and we show you how to do it yourself! NOTE: Please keep in mind in this video we roughly re install our stock suspension to show you how to remove yours while we un install our prototypes and swap in the final production model. This Is a good reference guide but always double check and tighten your bolts to spec! If you have any questions feel free to comment below or reach out to us!
GET YOURS HERE (Standard Kit)
www.importimageracing.com/pro...
GET YOURS HERE (Custom Built To Order Kit)
silvers-na.com/collections/ne... - Авто та транспорт
I would love to see some aggressive driving through some corners with a some GoPro in cabin footage to get a better understanding of how this coilover kit soaks up the bumps. Great video, glad to see a nice kit on the market.
To the point and helpful 👌🏽. Any updates on the possibility of adding subframe inserts?
Just bought your guys' last set on the website 😅 so stoked!
They go so fast! Thank you!
Thank you, we know you'll love them!
Thank YOU guys! Gonna be pairing those with some 19x8.5+35 AB-52S from ARK too. WRX is gonna be looking 🔥 very soon. Have a good day yall 😎
Seems easy enough. I have all the tools for the install. Going to try it myself. Thanks for the vid.
You can do this!!! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
It looks so easy, I just know this is gonna kick my ass 😄
its worth it :) Just don't start an hour before you need to be at work etc
this. is. SICK
色々なWRXの動画見たけど、このWRXが一番センスが良い。
Oh wow, The Suspension design is the same the 17+ Impreza/18+ Crosstrek.
Why I say it's the same the front swaybar attachment with how it bolt onto the swaybar to the back side of the strut tower. This is good to now with possible mods. (Own a 2020 Impreza Hatch)
Eline emeğine sağlık Dayi Oğliii
in the rear part the adjustments are the same 1 turn and a half or two turns.
i got this !
Fujisan Automotive LLC can give you a deal for Silvers or BC racing coilover installed if you are local to lee county!
The stock suspension is actually pretty good. Any thoughts on just adding lowering springs to fix the wheel gap?
It’s better than the Va but not nearly as good as these. Lowering springs will wear out you factory suspension, leading you to buy coilovers later. In my opinion buy once cry once. It’s worth it.
How much lower is this compared to stock height ?
"So, here you have your new swaybar endlink....it's already going to come at the perfect length, you're not going to have to adjust it really...."
then why when I try to install the new endlink is it TOO SHORT? I have to extend it to OEM endlink length in order for it to fit. What gives? What am I doing wrong?
Can you use stock endlinks when lowering with coil overs?????? Plz and thank you 🙏🏼
You can use stock end links in the rear but the front will need replaced with the new endlinks provided in the kit.
Cody needs to get into the group photo on this channel
it is outdated....needs a new touch :)
@@maryburgess9293 definitely! He's really doing a great job here.
Great video! Only thing missing is you don’t say to load the suspension before doing the sway bar end links! Followed this to a T and had horrible clanking, found out it’s because the suspension needs to be under load (car on the ground) before you tighten the end links
We talked with Silvers and it does look like they have explained to you how to install these multiple times. If you have any noises, I would bring it to a shop that commonly installs these, and the noises will go away.
@@ImportImageRacing just trying to help others from running into it themselves 😏
I got mine installed at a shop and they have tried twice to adjust the endlinks but at low speeds or going over speed bumps I still hear that clunk noise. Any suggestions?
Depending on ride height check to make sure the sway bar isn't hitting the steering rack boots and make sure you have the end link bushings installed. If it's pretty low he's probably going to have rub marks on the boots coming off the rack and will need to lengthen the endlinks. If the included bushings aren't installed on the end link bolts, they'll also cause a clunk on bumps because the bolt is moving around in the mount. He can also send us a video clip of the noise he's hearing to sales@silvers-na.com and we can probably narrow it down. @@Chokiyumi
Why are my end links so much more extended to fit than yours? They match stock length but wtf lol
Have a slight clunk going over little bumps. Normal driving is fine. Sounds like from endlinks. What are your thouts? Thanks
silvers-na.com/pages/faqs the animation shows you how to correctly set the pre-load that would be the first thing I would check. Then I would make sure the end links and all bolts are tight. Also make sure you are using the included collars that come with the endlinks, if you do not use them, it will make noise. Hope this was helpful :)
What about lcas? I’m looking into the silvers but can’t find a decently priced set of lcas
We can definitely help out! Send a quick note on the website or instagram and Dane will put together everything you need!
Did you need new front endings or did the stock ones work?
The kit will come with the correct adjustable end links needed. The stock ones will not work.
Could these be installed in such a way to give a factory ride height out of the box as a starting point and then be adjusted to get the height exactly where I’d want it after some driving and experimenting to see how they handle certain driving conditions?
They will always be roughly a 1/2" lower than factory when raised all the way up. There's plenty of adjustment range but they will never truly hit factory height.
@@ImportImageRacing perfect! Thank you so much. I don’t mind a small amount of lowering to start with. I just know some kits drop the car more right out of the gate and I’d like the option to experiment, so these seem like a good fit. Appreciate all you do for the WRX community!
My 22 wrx has 19x9.5 with a 30 offset and 255/35 tires would this coilovers be able to drop 2.5 inches without rubbing ?
That 30 offset will stick out of the fender.
What grill is that on the car? It looks nice
It's the OEM JDM GRILLE!
@@ImportImageRacing oh nice, may have to pick one up
Would you say these ride close to stock? The wifey gets motion sickness when it’s too stiff
On softer settings they ride better than stock. If you send us a message on the site we can also custom build ones to your needs, if you want them extra comfy, that is no problem. We did a set for my dad who had multiple strokes that drove significantly smoother/softer than stock yet still handled better.
Hey brother, should your preload tight enough for the coil inside to not be able to spin at all? Mine is pretty tight but if I try hard enough the coil can spin and I'm hearing some chatter from the front. Thinking my preload needs to be tightened some more.
No. You'll probably never be able to get that spring to stop spinning it's on a radial bearing so it should spin. If you were to somehow get it to stop spinning it can cause noise from spring bind. Pre-load is only to stop the spring from moving up and down causing noise. 3-5mm is plenty to accomplish this. The noise is most likely something loose or the end links.
@ImportImageRacing gotcha! Thanks for the reply. Is any noise being made by the end links normal or is there some adjustments that I should be making with those too? I'm getting an alignment tomorrow also.
@@WallsAndFoundations did you figure out what’s causing the noise? On the fence about buying these. Don’t want any type of noise or clunking
@SWAPSHOPJOE I decided to get professionals involved when I got my alignment after the install. Not entirely sure what exactly was causing the noise unfortunately but it was indeed fixed after I asked them to tighten everything up during the alignment. Car has driven fantasticly ever since. Only recommendation I'd make is when you get these opt for the Swift Spring upgrade. Vanilla is great, but as comfortable as these are, I do wish they were a tad more stiff personally. I'm gonna stiffen the rebound a bit more and see if my opinion changes. Great coils though, I'm very happy. OEM+ feel and quality
@@WallsAndFoundations We're glad you sorted out your noise issues. It's almost always a simple nut or bolt that was left a bit loose just causing some movement noise. We always recommend following OEM torque specs when dealing with connection points to the vehicle. Unfortunately, if we offer the default off-the-shelf kit at a higher rate most people will complain about it being TOO stiff. It's supposed to mimic near oem+ or sport+ ride quality as is. Just slightly firmer than stock but still very comfortable all around. We can always build you a custom kit at your desired stiffer rate or even higher rate shocks if you want to change those out in the future. Our kits are fully rebuildable so no issue with just swapping shocks or springs out for a different setup in the future. Our shocks will also typically handle a 4k rate change without needing to be re-valved. If you would like to go up 2k or 4k in spring rate all-around to get that slightly stiffer ride you are after you can do that and should have no trouble with the setup. More than 4k over factory we will typically suggest that you get a set of correctly valved shocks for the new spring rate. As always if you have any specific questions, please feel free to reach out to us and we'll be glad to answer them for you.
Is there a torque reuqirement for all the nut?
You will use the factory torque specs for all of the nuts.
Is the front knuckles different than the older 2020/2021 STI, or can an older STI knuckle be put on to the 2022?
Entire front coilover system is different. its not even close.
@@maryburgess9293 darn. Wait, so the mcpherson strut on the 2022 is a coilover? Well, technically i guess it is. I ordered a 2022, and I’ gearing up for the upgrades. I’m trying to figure out the brake caliper carrier that will bolt up to the 2022 knuckle for bigger caliper/STI/Brembo or other 4 piston with bigger rotors. I saw the CTSv conversion done, but it spaced out the wheel quite a bit.
@@RobHTech be very aware, the factory suspension on the 2022 is amazing. Its is going to be very easy to actually downgrade it by buying cheap to medium priced coilovers. The factory coilovers even have an internal 400lb dampening spring. The car stays so flat through corners and its so predictable once you get it to break loose.
@@Turbolious Thank you. I was asking because of the possibility of changing the brakes without using any adapters, etc. I believe that the 2022 has great balance, and the suspension works great.
@@Turbolious do you think by just adding lowering springs you can retain some of the niceness of the stock suspension while still closing the wheel gap?
I don't see the link to purchase
We always put the links in the video description in case you're ever trying to find a link in the future.
(Standard Kit)
www.importimageracing.com/products/silvers-neomax-coilover-kit-subaru-wrx-vb-2022
(Custom Built To Order Kit)
silvers-na.com/collections/new-releases/products/silvers-neomax-coilovers-subaru-wrx-vb-2022
Any issues with clunking ? Having a hard time tracking it down after tightening endljnks I thought
What is the preload set to?
I am having the same issue, clunking over small bumps. I think it is because I can't tighten the endlinks and more, and one side is still loose. On the stock set theres was an allen key accomidation to hold the threads but the ones provided by Silvers just spin.
I fixed my Preload and my problem when away and when I binded both end links to the nuts holding it with the middle end link section and it worked !
@@WontonBaker There is a flat side on the back of the silvers end links that you can put a wrench or adjustable wrench on to hold it still while you tighten the bolt on the front. Hope this helps!
@@ImportImageRacing that worked!! Thank you!!
did anyone else notice that the top (camber) and bottom bolt were put on "backwards" from how they were removed? When they were removed, the nut was toward the front of the car...but on the reassembly, the nut was toward the rear of the car. I'm sure in some universe, this orientation does not matter, but it is probably best to put it back the way Subaru assembled the car. I get it, mistakes happen.
The shock body flange is designed to accept the eccentric bolt in either direction. This isn’t the case for every shock or aftermarket coilover, but in this case it is. Other than you not liking the orientation of the hardware, there’s no issue with installing the bolt in that direction for this fitment.
Would you guys suggest adjustable control arms?
Heck yes we would! Whiteline, super pro, cusco etc
@@ImportImageRacing I had a feeling. I’m going to get fortune auto coils soon and as I was watching a few instal videos they all said it’s pretty much needed. Thanks!
@@price2263 Awesome man! We have them in stock to ship right away, no long waits :)
What you don't really show is that the endlinks should be adjusted with weight on the wheels.
Are you supposed to tighten the endlinks when the car is on the ground or blocks?
correct. Ideally, you would want to adjust those when the car is sitting at ride height so there's no pre-load on the sway bar.
Basic instructions would be
1. Remove OEM end links.
2. Adjust new adjustable-length end links to match OEM end link length.
3. Install one new end link on one side of the car, and leave it loose at the sway bar(be sure to use included bushing for the end link)
4. Install a new end link on the other side of the car. Leave it loose from the sway bar.(again be sure to use a bushing on this side as well)
5. Place the vehicle on the ground to load the suspension
6. Torque down end link bolts you left loose as well as the center jam nuts.
@@ImportImageRacing the jam nuts are in the endlinks?
@@ImportImageRacing why didn’t you say this in the videos?!
@@superplushvideos7968 This video was done by Cody, he doesn't work here anymore.
@@ImportImageRacing so would riding up on ramps to tighten the front end links be enough? Or would you want the car level so have both front and back under load but on blocks or something to get under the car.
Are u guys out of stock on this coilovers rn??cuz I order mines like a week ago and haven’t had any updates yet.
They are currently on pre-order as our first batch sold out rather quickly. They typically take 2 weeks to be built and shipped. If you want to reach out for an update on your order please email Support@importimageracing.com and we can help out any way we can!
I got my coillover over a week ago and since I got them on am been having a problem with them, every time I go over a bump makes a clunk sound and everything is tight.Do u know how I can fix this problem? Otherwise I may have to return them?
@@BrayanEscobar420 most common reason coilovers tend to clunk is a loose bolt on the coilover or sway bar. Or the preload is set incorrectly. I would go over it once more and double check and if you are still unsure please email support@importimageracing.com or silvers directly at support@silvers-na.com
@@ImportImageRacing yeah I will go over it one more time and check everything. Thanks.
Did you ever find a solution mine are doing the same !
Can it go over speed bumps?
Haven't bottomed it out yet so as long as you aren't flying over them it should be good!
No room for travel no?
Not a ton at the current height. For some reason some of the kids here like to see the cars low. I prefer there to be a little bit more wheel gap for handling. Most of these vehicles get used for photos so that’s probably why.
I hate that grill because it reminds me of a Ford
Yeah, looks like a Ford Taurus or something, glad I'm not the only one that saw that.
But why lower you WRX 🥲 Less clearence = Less fun
Silvers coilovers can run at stock height too 😉
Well unless you're planning on offroading the car, lower car = better handling / more fun 😁
These are some valid points. 😅