What an outstanding job with these videos. Been in the building industry for over 10 years now and no other online resource is as helpful as your videos. Great Stuff Mate.
I'd like to give a shout to Buildsum for these videos. You're doing an awesome job mate and I think you're doing a great service to the construction industry in this country. I think your explanatory style works for all audiences because you are very clear in your descriptions, you maintain a good steady pace that's easy to follow and the procedural way you introduce each step logically follows the actual order of construction, not the process of project conception which has a tendency to overtake the planning because it's the fun part. With such knowledge available so freely, it's a wonder that there are still so many cowboy builders out there since it can't conceivably be more costly to simply do things the right way the first time. As the saying goes, shortcuts are expensive cuts. So thankyou and keep up the good work.
State of Arkansas is pretty flexible in the inspection. At the end of the day you can do 1 thing in plenty different ways but you seem to make it so detailed and well explained
Excellent walkthrough, watched it years ago and it's still brilliant. Insulation might not go amiss but you probably don't need it in Aussie... You do in NZ! ;)
Hi there Your video is fantastic and useful, I am studding diploma of building design and did not have any idea regarding the brick veneer wall, as a second language who is studing in Australia and have not seen this type of wall, I have to say that was fantastic. Thank you so much
great videos Mr BuildSum i really appreciate your hard work. i'm currently studying building construction and i've learned quite a lot from your videos
+Buildsum no thank you for your work. and is it better for me to built my house or hire a someone meaning builder. and what's the estimate cost of building a two story 5 bedroom house. you can also email me on tlaimnkain@gmail.com
tamkin pashton Hi Tamkin If you are going to buildyour own home i would hope you have some experience in construction otherwise hiring a builder to oversee the project would be a good idea. As for a price there are so many variables that I won’t commit to a price. If you want to get an idea have a look at what project builders are pricing there houses at in your area. Hope this helps Buildsum
As a Building Design student this helped me lock in the step by step process of constructing a brick veneer building. Thanks! However you forgot the insulation which is very important to save power consumption and therefor sustainability.
Thank you for your help, i really learnt a lot from you. As i am a first year in uni studying construction management and i did not understand much in the class but your videos helped me click in the information in my head. Thank you sooo much!!
Both the explanation and the video are really well done. That SketchUp model must've taken a while to make with all those scenes. Awesome stuff. Thank you!
Warning ! Long and descriptive.That was a great anatomy of the veneer instillation. We have a new home where we have a second storey peak roof under a 3 section bedroom window. The peak extends to the end of the garage and is the roof of the garage. The brick run for the second storey runs on top of a 5 cinder block wall constructed on an I beam that runs across the ceiling in the garage. Garage ceiling is all dry walled with an attic hatch for access. The issue we have is that water is weeping through the lower cider block support onto the I beam through the ceiling and onto the floor of the garage. The brick run goes up to the second storey roof above the garage. There are weeping holes in the brick one run above the first layer of brick layered on the cinder blocks. It would appear there is a major fault in the flashing instillation as you have demonstrated in the video. Water test prove that water penetrates the veneer, mortar joints and possibly the weep holes, this water penetrates downwards and leaks as described earlier. Water is not caught as in the demonstration and forced to channel back out through the weeping holes.The same situation occurs at the top of the foundation wall where a man door is framed into the foundation at the side of the garage where it extends out from the main wall of the house about 6 feet. Water weeps into the garage by running under the sill plate after penetrating the barriers described in the video. Mortar joints in some areas exceed 10mm to in some cases 20 mm or greater. We know this is not code. The portico also has water leaking through the lintel over top of the main door of the house. This is probably coming from the second storey where the flashing was most likely installed incorrectly.We are warrantied but through this process the builder has shown a high degree of incompetence by affecting such things as sealing the weeping holes caulking and screwing down the roof flashing suggesting another layer of flashing over the exiting flashing on the roof.The man door frame was eventually replaced and the foundation widened as the builder and framers had installed the man door frame buy cutting it of at the bottom and sitting it on top of the foundation due to the foundation opening only being 34 inches wide. Needless to say the frame leaked all down the sides and was mostly rotten in only a 10 month period. The man door issue was denied by the builder for almost 10 months until it was finally removed and replaced. At that time we noticed the mortar rubble in the space between the veneer and the wall sheathing. Holes in the sheath cover no overlapping and lack of flashing in the 2 sides of the man door frame. Leaking under the door plate and again leaking into the garage onto the floor.Serviceman insists that the sill plate was caulked had Styrofoam laid down on the foundation wall and plastic vapour barrier installed underneath. Water leaks under the sill plate down the 2 foot garage wall inside and onto the floor. This is the same idiot that sealed up the weep holes. When veneer was replaced around the man door the mortar joints ended up in the 20mm and larger area in some joints. The corner joint run in the 90 degrees where the house meets and the garage extends the 6 or 7 feet has a large single mortar joint now with no interlocking brick. Space between the brick and sheathing is questionable in this corner as in, very tight.No flashing continuance at the 90 degree along house proper connecting to the 90 degree and out to the sides of the man door.Engineer was hired and we are awaiting builders response to his report that memorializes these issues. Builder is not very concerned. Very surprised at the incompetence.. Sorry this was so long but I guess no one has to read it. This video taught me so much about the exact way this should be done. Anyone buying a house should watch this video. You should inspect this construction process in buying a new house even if you have to hire an expert.
Hi Mate Wow, it sounds like quite an ordeal, however, it seems to be a fairly common problem these days. The speed of construction, the skills shortage, and the segregation and specialisation of trades has really downgraded the quality of the houses we are building these days. I hope you are able to get your issues sorted out as soon as possible.
Yes that is exactly the case. When the house was built the division was nearing the end. We had seen a lot of work and met the bricklayer. 50 years of bricklaying and all the jobs looked great. We are only ones with a 2 storey all brick house. We asked if they were able to do the job and they reassured us. The weather was great for when they bricked. We lived a ways away and they were strict on access. But after the house was built we had quality issues right away. Most of these they tried to hide. The flashing was contracted out. I did not know anything about flashing until these issue arose. Your video is excellent. Any way there are lots of denials now. The original bricklayer having subed the garage and second storey work to someone else. Scary, they did not even know if they put vapor barrier on the garage entrance. Ripped the brick off twice around the man door. Every time the mortar joints got bigger and no blue skin flashing.My neighbors a few blocks away bought the model home. The concrete form tie holes were never filled in. The walls ended up cracking and weeping moisture into the foundation. Because they drywall the basement walls it is hard to detect cracks until moisture and water weeps from under the drywall. We had a leak in the furnace. 2 cracked window frames, known but not revealed to us, a leak in the garden door, leak in the cold room, from a non filled concrete tie hole, leak under the man door leak through the man door foundation wall in the garage and leaks from the flashing from the second storey.And yes after the fact we got to know a few of the contractors who basically said that they do not reveal errors. If the next trade is slated they just build over mistakes and have no team mandate. They just overlook every error and leave it to the homeowner or the builder to find it and fix it later. There is a shortage of trades people. But there are great ones out there. We were able to get an engineers report in with our year end report so that the Tarion homeowner insurance body has a professional engineering document to support all the issues. It took the engineer 3 minutes to diagnose the flashing. We also went to the trades college and talked to the Professor. In 2 minutes she diagnosed the flashing.We don't have the venomous creatures you have though lol. My Grandfather was from Sydney, We used to sit in the giant tortoise shell he brought with him.
Hi, thank you very much for your excellent knowledge sharing. I am currently having a house to be built and at the brick stage，however, I don't see any sarking/sisilation layer behind the bricks, nether the flashing, although I did see some weep holes between the bricks. I am very confused, it looks like the bricks got lay up straight against the wood. Can any one please help me with 🥲my question?
Hi, Sarking is not a regulartory requiement however im supprised you would have got your BASIX approved without it, if you are in NSW. There sould be a 40mm gap between the bricks and the timber frame if not this is a problem. If you look into the weepholes you should be able to see the flashing. If you would like to discuss more please contact me buildsum@gmail.com
Hi Twentyone twos, no not really usually it is cut off with he top of the ground or concrete slab if it hasn't been ripped out first. I guess you could stick it back to the slab if you wanted but this is not usually done.
Hi buildsum, is the DPC and sill/head flashing the same thing?. Do you have any videos explaining a site cut using a unprotected embankment? Thank you for your videos, they have been great!
Hi Damien, thanks for the idea, although it is pretty similar to the Brick Veneer, Slab on ground with the inner brick wall doing the job of the Timber Frame. Hope this helps.
hi, great video!!! Do you have how to set back ground and first floor level that comply to standards?? Or to calculate how many riser and going for the stairs please
Hi Alex thanks for your comments. I dont have ant thing on how to set back groung but i do have some stuff on setting out ua-cam.com/video/7dN3Iku0Bns/v-deo.html and you could try this playlist for the stairs stuff ua-cam.com/video/Lummb0xWQ24/v-deo.html hope this helps
Hi buildsum, Im just wondering if there is any extra insulation that goes within the timberframe behind the final plasterboards? or is the sarking enough?
When looking at the side profile at 2:35, what is supposed to fill the gap between the bottom course and the foundation if there is only one wall of brick veneer on the house? Is it supposed to be mortared shut?
Hi Mate, no there is no need to close off the cavity at the bottom, in fact, you are better off to leave it open in case moister gets in there is can dry out.
Buildsum I thought maybe that was the case but is that okay even if critters can get in there? I guess I could put a screen over it to keep anything out of there but I wasn’t sure. I appreciate the reply!
Hi Mate, The only way in would be through the weep holes and I have seen screens that you can install when building the home however it is not common and generally there are no issues.
cumquat159 Hi Yes there is a requirement to 'Tie Down' the bottom plate. Usually a M10 75mm dyna bolt every 1200mm plus on both ends of bracing sheets HOWEVER this is subject to the wind load area you are in and the bracing design for each job
Hi George As this is Slab construction the membrane under the slab is considered to be the DPC, the flashing in the wall is only to direct the water that may flow down the back of the brick back out of the building. It wouldn't hurt to have the DPC come all the way across the brick however it is not necessary.
My house was finished recently by a big builder. I didn’t see any DPC flashing at all during construction - is this normal? We do have weep holes. Also the concreter went and poured concrete nearly at level with the weep holes - bloody disaster. Luckily it was builder’s subbie not us. Currently fighting with builder about this issue. I was told there is no building code and asked what I was talking about... wow!!!
Hi Mate, sorry to hear about your problems, I hate it whenever professional builders can't get it right. As for the DPC, the bricklayer would normally put that in as they laid the appropriate course of brickwork so you may not have seen it go in. Hope you are able to sort out the problems and get on with enjoying your new house.
Buildsum thanks for your reply! Is there a way I can check for flashing? Can I remove a weep guard and take a look with a torch? Should I be able to see plastic flashing at back of weep hole? If not and it’s just mortar, is that going to be a big problem? I feel it is and I may get a building inspection done.
Hello, we bought 25 old house in Queensland Australia. Now one side and half side of the second side of the house has earth against the wall( construction is 2 metre deep), could you please tell me what I should be doing to protect the area from termite, coz as far as I know if I get termite treatment, it will not go that far deep down, what should we doing?
+Ta Hi Tal As long as the termite barrier is below the lowest timber member in the house then it doesn't matter how deep it is. It will also depend on the type of construction as to where the termite barrier is e.g. Slab verses Bearers and joists. Also the age of your house predates the changes that came in in 1995 regarding chemicals that can be used to protect against termites so the house my have been treated with these. If you are concerned i would suggest getting a termite / pest control expert in to have a look at the house and advise on any actions required. Hope this helps
there is a gap between the bricks and the cement wall where the wall frame sits, what size is that gap? and how deep needs to be the level of the brick base,where the first layer of bricks is laid in relation to the wall frame base?
@@Buildsum i know nothing, about this, so is there a course that one can take, at certificate level, at tafe, where one can learn, about doing the slab, and laying the pipes, and other structures, before the slab?
Hi, no not really, i guess the best course would be the Cert IV in Building however it is a 2 year course part time and it covers alot more than just the slab and relies on you having a background knowledge of the industry.
@@Buildsum hello the flashing that runs, from the bottom plate down to the first layer of bricks, how is it attached to the bottom plate, with glue or with nails? and from what i could see in the video, only a bit of the flashing is embedded in the first layer of the bricks.... not the whole width of the brick isnt it? about the graniteguard, you just place it until, the height of the first brick layer?
Hi, the flashing is usually nailed or stapled to the bottom plate of the frame. Yes, it should extend all the way across the brick as long as it is not seen on the outside of the building. The granite guard just has to be below the lowest timber member in the building Hope this helps
Good video, just a question that course under the window (with the flashing) does the flashing go through the whole course or just underneath the window? Also when laying the flashing on top of the first course/Row how much length should we keep the flashing from either side of the row?
Hi Mitch The flashing under the window just runs past the ends of the window by a couple of 100mm or so that's all, not the whole course. For the DPC course, the flashing should extend right through the course for that moisture can't bypass it, however, it is common practice to set it back a few millimetres so it can't be seen from the outside of the building. Hope this helps
Hi Buildsum, Are you an instructor. What tool are you using to bring up the graphics? It was a very nice video. I would like to be an owner builder. Do you think I can have a chat with you.
Hi Mate, Yes, i teach Carpentry and Building. I use SketchUp for all my drawings. If you would like to contact me my email address is buildsum@gmail.com
Hi Gloria Galvanized straps are used a lot in Brick veneer construction. they can be used as a tension brace for the timber walls, to tie the beams in the garage to the engaged piers, to tie the bearers to the piers and dwarf wall, if required. it can also be used to reinforce the walls for tie down purposes and tie the trusses to the top plates although there are proprietary products now that are quicker and easier to use than the strap. Hope this helps.
Hi, Your videos are fantastic for anyone interested in knowing about building practices. I have always wondered about the membrane sticking out of the ground loosely as seen in many completed sites. It looks like an eyesore and left loose, water could fall between it and the concrete. My question is: Is there a neater way to finish the membrane or should you just make sure you never water around it?
Lakeesha Franklin Hi Lakeesha, Good point. Wall and ceiling insulation would need to be installed in the wall, before the lining is installed, and ceiling, after the ceiling lining is installed.
Hey built sum! Im doing my constructing report for uni and I found your video is suuuuuuuper helpful!!!! I'm just wonder about the insulation, it there just the insulation to do with the moisturize? What about the noise and thermal? Will the brick wall be colored as finishing or there is some other finishing?
+Ruoxuan Wang Yes there would usually be some Thermal/noise insulation in between the studs. The brick work could be painted, bagged or rendered or just left as plain brick as long as Face Brick are used
Hi Mike, in the case of a Brick Veneer or a Double Brick house the outside brickwork is only a veneer and DOES NOT support the roof load. The best way to work it out is to have a look at the internal walls and see if they are timber or masonry, if they are timber then the house is most likely brick veneer otherwise double brick. Otherwise, you are going to have to get into the roof and have a look where the roof is pitched from. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum Thanks for your reply. I really appreciate it :) For my house, the ground floor is brick and 1st floor is whetherboard - I checked the internal walls by tapping them and it sounds hollow - so i guess my house is brick veneer - but does this brick support the whetherboard or the load of the 1st floor ?
HI Mike, yeah so the ground floor would be brick veneer and then the 1st floor would be basically a timber frame with the weatherboards fixed to the timber frame. The brickwork is definitely not loadbearing it is just a finish like the weatherboards.
Wow, that was great. Love your work :) What would the thickness of the wall from outside of brick to inside of Gyprock? Is the air gap a standard on Brick Veneer walls? Thanks again, i would say this is the best material i have found for Australian material.
I guess im asking the wrong place but does someone know a tool to get back into an instagram account..? I somehow lost the account password. I love any assistance you can offer me
@Maximus Deshawn Thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Young and keen as drafty here, your videos are my go to for section drawings thanks for all your work.
Thanks Mate, glad to hear it works
What an outstanding job with these videos. Been in the building industry for over 10 years now and no other online resource is as helpful as your videos. Great Stuff Mate.
Thanks Mate great to hear that they are still useful.
I'd like to give a shout to Buildsum for these videos. You're doing an awesome job mate and I think you're doing a great service to the construction industry in this country. I think your explanatory style works for all audiences because you are very clear in your descriptions, you maintain a good steady pace that's easy to follow and the procedural way you introduce each step logically follows the actual order of construction, not the process of project conception which has a tendency to overtake the planning because it's the fun part. With such knowledge available so freely, it's a wonder that there are still so many cowboy builders out there since it can't conceivably be more costly to simply do things the right way the first time. As the saying goes, shortcuts are expensive cuts. So thankyou and keep up the good work.
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment. It is great to hear that the videos are useful.
Buildsum I take your advice, I definitely see you as a father figure in the construction Field. Love from the States.
Thanks mate although Im not sure how much would be applicable to things in the states.
State of Arkansas is pretty flexible in the inspection. At the end of the day you can do 1 thing in plenty different ways but you seem to make it so detailed and well explained
These videos are top notch both visually and auditory, been 10 years but no other content creator tops these
Thanks Mate, I'm glad you like them and that they are still helpful
Excellent walkthrough, watched it years ago and it's still brilliant. Insulation might not go amiss but you probably don't need it in Aussie... You do in NZ! ;)
Hi Mate, thanks for the contribution, yeah i should have thrown the insulation in.
LEGEND no words for your efforts in these videos!! Thanks so much
Wow, thanks!
Absolute legend mate I needed this for my study!
Thanks Mate, I'm glad they are still helpful
Hey Mate,
Really appreciate what you do, so handy to have a resource that's well explained with visuals. Keep it up!
Hi Mate, thanks for the comment and the donation, just great to hear that these videos are still useful.
I can become a builder just watching these detailed information.
Hi there
Your video is fantastic and useful, I am studding diploma of building design and did not have any idea regarding the brick veneer wall, as a second language who is studing in Australia and have not seen this type of wall, I have to say that was fantastic.
Thank you so much
+Babak Sp Thanks babak I'm gad that you found it useful
thank you soooo much. I really appreciate you had made this video, waaaaayyyyyy better than the lecture in uni.
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, I'm glad to hear that the video helps.
great videos Mr BuildSum i really appreciate your hard work. i'm currently studying building construction and i've learned quite a lot from your videos
tamkin pashton Thanks Tamkin
+Buildsum no thank you for your work. and is it better for me to built my house or hire a someone meaning builder. and what's the estimate cost of building a two story 5 bedroom house. you can also email me on tlaimnkain@gmail.com
tamkin pashton Hi Tamkin
If you are going to buildyour own home i would hope you have some experience in construction otherwise
hiring a builder to oversee the project would be a good idea.
As for a price there are so many variables that I won’t commit to a price. If you want to get an idea have a look at what project builders are pricing there houses at in your area.
Hope this helps
Buildsum
+Buildsum ok thanks mate
I am currently studying Cert IV in Construction. I think I have learnt more watching your videos than studying the whole course :) Nice work!
Thanks Mate glad you like them.
Which TAFE is that? Chullora NSW?
As a Building Design student this helped me lock in the step by step process of constructing a brick veneer building. Thanks! However you forgot the insulation which is very important to save power consumption and therefor sustainability.
Hi Jeremy, thanks for your comment, Yes I did forget the insulation which is extreamly important.
Awesome this has helped me with my build my brickwork was sitting on the boxing around my frame my inspector and my friend picked it up great video
Hi Kathy, thanks for your comment, I'm glad that you were able to pick up the problem and hopefully get it sorted out quickly.
Great ! Good to see something of Australian building techniques .
Thank you for your help, i really learnt a lot from you. As i am a first year in uni studying construction management and i did not understand much in the class but your videos helped me click in the information in my head. Thank you sooo much!!
Both the explanation and the video are really well done. That SketchUp model must've taken a while to make with all those scenes. Awesome stuff.
Thank you!
Thanks Mate, hope it has helped. Drawing it takes the longest, getting the animations is pretty easy really.
Great video !!!!
Thanks Mate.
Warning ! Long and descriptive.That was a great anatomy of the veneer instillation. We have a new home where we have a second storey peak roof under a 3 section bedroom window. The peak extends to the end of the garage and is the roof of the garage. The brick run for the second storey runs on top of a 5 cinder block wall constructed on an I beam that runs across the ceiling in the garage. Garage ceiling is all dry walled with an attic hatch for access. The issue we have is that water is weeping through the lower cider block support onto the I beam through the ceiling and onto the floor of the garage. The brick run goes up to the second storey roof above the garage. There are weeping holes in the brick one run above the first layer of brick layered on the cinder blocks. It would appear there is a major fault in the flashing instillation as you have demonstrated in the video. Water test prove that water penetrates the veneer, mortar joints and possibly the weep holes, this water penetrates downwards and leaks as described earlier. Water is not caught as in the demonstration and forced to channel back out through the weeping holes.The same situation occurs at the top of the foundation wall where a man door is framed into the foundation at the side of the garage where it extends out from the main wall of the house about 6 feet. Water weeps into the garage by running under the sill plate after penetrating the barriers described in the video. Mortar joints in some areas exceed 10mm to in some cases 20 mm or greater. We know this is not code. The portico also has water leaking through the lintel over top of the main door of the house. This is probably coming from the second storey where the flashing was most likely installed incorrectly.We are warrantied but through this process the builder has shown a high degree of incompetence by affecting such things as sealing the weeping holes caulking and screwing down the roof flashing suggesting another layer of flashing over the exiting flashing on the roof.The man door frame was eventually replaced and the foundation widened as the builder and framers had installed the man door frame buy cutting it of at the bottom and sitting it on top of the foundation due to the foundation opening only being 34 inches wide. Needless to say the frame leaked all down the sides and was mostly rotten in only a 10 month period. The man door issue was denied by the builder for almost 10 months until it was finally removed and replaced. At that time we noticed the mortar rubble in the space between the veneer and the wall sheathing. Holes in the sheath cover no overlapping and lack of flashing in the 2 sides of the man door frame. Leaking under the door plate and again leaking into the garage onto the floor.Serviceman insists that the sill plate was caulked had Styrofoam laid down on the foundation wall and plastic vapour barrier installed underneath. Water leaks under the sill plate down the 2 foot garage wall inside and onto the floor. This is the same idiot that sealed up the weep holes. When veneer was replaced around the man door the mortar joints ended up in the 20mm and larger area in some joints. The corner joint run in the 90 degrees where the house meets and the garage extends the 6 or 7 feet has a large single mortar joint now with no interlocking brick. Space between the brick and sheathing is questionable in this corner as in, very tight.No flashing continuance at the 90 degree along house proper connecting to the 90 degree and out to the sides of the man door.Engineer was hired and we are awaiting builders response to his report that memorializes these issues. Builder is not very concerned. Very surprised at the incompetence.. Sorry this was so long but I guess no one has to read it. This video taught me so much about the exact way this should be done. Anyone buying a house should watch this video. You should inspect this construction process in buying a new house even if you have to hire an expert.
Hi Mate
Wow, it sounds like quite an ordeal, however, it seems to be a fairly common problem these days. The speed of construction, the skills shortage, and the segregation and specialisation of trades has really downgraded the quality of the houses we are building these days. I hope you are able to get your issues sorted out as soon as possible.
Yes that is exactly the case. When the house was built the division was nearing the end. We had seen a lot of work and met the bricklayer. 50 years of bricklaying and all the jobs looked great. We are only ones with a 2 storey all brick house. We asked if they were able to do the job and they reassured us. The weather was great for when they bricked. We lived a ways away and they were strict on access. But after the house was built we had quality issues right away. Most of these they tried to hide. The flashing was contracted out. I did not know anything about flashing until these issue arose. Your video is excellent. Any way there are lots of denials now. The original bricklayer having subed the garage and second storey work to someone else. Scary, they did not even know if they put vapor barrier on the garage entrance. Ripped the brick off twice around the man door. Every time the mortar joints got bigger and no blue skin flashing.My neighbors a few blocks away bought the model home. The concrete form tie holes were never filled in. The walls ended up cracking and weeping moisture into the foundation. Because they drywall the basement walls it is hard to detect cracks until moisture and water weeps from under the drywall. We had a leak in the furnace. 2 cracked window frames, known but not revealed to us, a leak in the garden door, leak in the cold room, from a non filled concrete tie hole, leak under the man door leak through the man door foundation wall in the garage and leaks from the flashing from the second storey.And yes after the fact we got to know a few of the contractors who basically said that they do not reveal errors. If the next trade is slated they just build over mistakes and have no team mandate. They just overlook every error and leave it to the homeowner or the builder to find it and fix it later. There is a shortage of trades people. But there are great ones out there. We were able to get an engineers report in with our year end report so that the Tarion homeowner insurance body has a professional engineering document to support all the issues. It took the engineer 3 minutes to diagnose the flashing. We also went to the trades college and talked to the Professor. In 2 minutes she diagnosed the flashing.We don't have the venomous creatures you have though lol. My Grandfather was from Sydney, We used to sit in the giant tortoise shell he brought with him.
Very nice video !
ARIELNFL Thanks
Thank you for this video!
Hi, thank you very much for your excellent knowledge sharing. I am currently having a house to be built and at the brick stage，however, I don't see any sarking/sisilation layer behind the bricks, nether the flashing, although I did see some weep holes between the bricks. I am very confused, it looks like the bricks got lay up straight against the wood. Can any one please help me with 🥲my question?
Hi, Sarking is not a regulartory requiement however im supprised you would have got your BASIX approved without it, if you are in NSW. There sould be a 40mm gap between the bricks and the timber frame if not this is a problem. If you look into the weepholes you should be able to see the flashing. If you would like to discuss more please contact me buildsum@gmail.com
This was fantastic, thank you
Thanks Dean
Thanks for the video!
Hello, does the flashing through to the weep holes also serve as the Damp Proof Course in a typical brick veneer construction?
Hi Mate, No, the Membrane that goes under the concrete is effectively the DPC, some builders will also put DPC under the wall plates.
Hi Twentyone twos, no not really usually it is cut off with he top of the ground or concrete slab if it hasn't been ripped out first. I guess you could stick it back to the slab if you wanted but this is not usually done.
excellent video. thanks
Hi buildsum, is the DPC and sill/head flashing the same thing?. Do you have any videos explaining a site cut using a unprotected embankment? Thank you for your videos, they have been great!
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, the DPC can be the same material as the Sill/Head flashing for sure.
No sorry no videos like that
Would love to see a double brick with slab on ground
Hi Damien, thanks for the idea, although it is pretty similar to the Brick Veneer, Slab on ground with the inner brick wall doing the job of the Timber Frame. Hope this helps.
Great video … good on ya … Thanks.
Thanks 👍
You are the best.. Thanks a lot sir
Thanks, Sanam, glad you like it.
hi,
great video!!!
Do you have how to set back ground and first floor level that comply to standards??
Or to calculate how many riser and going for the stairs please
Hi Alex thanks for your comments.
I dont have ant thing on how to set back groung but i do have some stuff on setting out
ua-cam.com/video/7dN3Iku0Bns/v-deo.html
and you could try this playlist for the stairs stuff
ua-cam.com/video/Lummb0xWQ24/v-deo.html
hope this helps
Hi buildsum, Im just wondering if there is any extra insulation that goes within the timberframe behind the final plasterboards? or is the sarking enough?
Hi Mate, Yes insulation batts would sit inbetween the studs to provide insulation as well as the sarking
Is the weight of the roof tiles supported by timber or the brick walls ?
HI Trini, the timber wall is the load bearing wall, the brick is just a veneer.
@@Buildsum thank you 👍
When looking at the side profile at 2:35, what is supposed to fill the gap between the bottom course and the foundation if there is only one wall of brick veneer on the house? Is it supposed to be mortared shut?
Hi Mate, no there is no need to close off the cavity at the bottom, in fact, you are better off to leave it open in case moister gets in there is can dry out.
Buildsum I thought maybe that was the case but is that okay even if critters can get in there? I guess I could put a screen over it to keep anything out of there but I wasn’t sure. I appreciate the reply!
Hi Mate, The only way in would be through the weep holes and I have seen screens that you can install when building the home however it is not common and generally there are no issues.
HI is there any need to have the bottom plate fastened/secured to the concrete floor eg some kind of tie bolt?
cumquat159 Hi Yes there is a requirement to 'Tie Down' the bottom plate. Usually a M10 75mm dyna bolt every 1200mm plus on both ends of bracing sheets HOWEVER this is subject to the wind load area you are in and the bracing design for each job
2:20 the DPC / flashing only seem to cover about the inside 1/3 of the brick.
Is that right, I thought it might cover the whole brick ?
Hi George
As this is Slab construction the membrane under the slab is considered to be the DPC, the flashing in the wall is only to direct the water that may flow down the back of the brick back out of the building. It wouldn't hurt to have the DPC come all the way across the brick however it is not necessary.
@@Buildsum OK thanks, makes good sense.
My house was finished recently by a big builder. I didn’t see any DPC flashing at all during construction - is this normal? We do have weep holes. Also the concreter went and poured concrete nearly at level with the weep holes - bloody disaster. Luckily it was builder’s subbie not us. Currently fighting with builder about this issue. I was told there is no building code and asked what I was talking about... wow!!!
Hi Mate, sorry to hear about your problems, I hate it whenever professional builders can't get it right. As for the DPC, the bricklayer would normally put that in as they laid the appropriate course of brickwork so you may not have seen it go in.
Hope you are able to sort out the problems and get on with enjoying your new house.
Buildsum thanks for your reply! Is there a way I can check for flashing? Can I remove a weep guard and take a look with a torch? Should I be able to see plastic flashing at back of weep hole? If not and it’s just mortar, is that going to be a big problem? I feel it is and I may get a building inspection done.
Buildsum I should send them your video and tell their brickies to go and learn how to do their jobs to code!
Hello, we bought 25 old house in Queensland Australia. Now one side and half side of the second side of the house has earth against the wall( construction is 2 metre deep), could you please tell me what I should be doing to protect the area from termite, coz as far as I know if I get termite treatment, it will not go that far deep down, what should we doing?
+Ta Hi Tal
As long as the termite barrier is below the lowest timber member in the house then it doesn't matter how deep it is. It will also depend on the type of construction as to where the termite barrier is e.g. Slab verses Bearers and joists.
Also the age of your house predates the changes that came in in 1995 regarding chemicals that can be used to protect against termites so the house my have been treated with these.
If you are concerned i would suggest getting a termite / pest control expert in to have a look at the house and advise on any actions required.
Hope this helps
there is a gap between the bricks and the cement wall where the wall frame sits, what size is that gap? and how deep needs to be the level of the brick base,where the first layer of bricks is laid in relation to the wall frame base?
Hi Mate, the gap, or the cavity, is usually 40 - 50mm wide and 172mm, 2 courses of brickwork, deep.
@@Buildsum i know nothing, about this, so is there a course that one can take, at certificate level, at tafe, where one can learn, about doing the slab, and laying the pipes, and other structures, before the slab?
Hi, no not really, i guess the best course would be the Cert IV in Building however it is a 2 year course part time and it covers alot more than just the slab and relies on you having a background knowledge of the industry.
@@Buildsum hello the flashing that runs, from the bottom plate down to the first layer of bricks, how is it attached to the bottom plate, with glue or with nails? and from what i could see in the video, only a bit of the flashing is embedded in the first layer of the bricks.... not the whole width of the brick isnt it? about the graniteguard, you just place it until, the height of the first brick layer?
Hi, the flashing is usually nailed or stapled to the bottom plate of the frame.
Yes, it should extend all the way across the brick as long as it is not seen on the outside of the building.
The granite guard just has to be below the lowest timber member in the building
Hope this helps
Good video, just a question that course under the window (with the flashing) does the flashing go through the whole course or just underneath the window? Also when laying the flashing on top of the first course/Row how much length should we keep the flashing from either side of the row?
Hi Mitch
The flashing under the window just runs past the ends of the window by a couple of 100mm or so that's all, not the whole course.
For the DPC course, the flashing should extend right through the course for that moisture can't bypass it, however, it is common practice to set it back a few millimetres so it can't be seen from the outside of the building.
Hope this helps
Buildsum information is very helpful, thank you 👍
Hi Buildsum,
Are you an instructor. What tool are you using to bring up the graphics? It was a very nice video. I would like to be an owner builder. Do you think I can have a chat with you.
Hi Mate, Yes, i teach Carpentry and Building. I use SketchUp for all my drawings. If you would like to contact me my email address is buildsum@gmail.com
Are there any galvanized straps used in brick veneer?
Hi Gloria
Galvanized straps are used a lot in Brick veneer construction. they can be used as a tension brace for the timber walls, to tie the beams in the garage to the engaged piers, to tie the bearers to the piers and dwarf wall, if required. it can also be used to reinforce the walls for tie down purposes and tie the trusses to the top plates although there are proprietary products now that are quicker and easier to use than the strap.
Hope this helps.
Thank you so much! Really helpful to my assignment
Hi,
Your videos are fantastic for anyone interested in knowing about building practices.
I have always wondered about the membrane sticking out of the ground loosely as seen in many completed sites. It looks like an eyesore and left loose, water could fall between it and the concrete.
My question is: Is there a neater way to finish the membrane or should you just make sure you never water around it?
nice video, but what about wall and ceiling insulation ?
Lakeesha Franklin Hi Lakeesha, Good point. Wall and ceiling insulation would need to be installed in the wall, before the lining is installed, and ceiling, after the ceiling lining is installed.
Thankyou :-)
hi. i have been watching ur great videos. just wondering if u could make one for reverse brick veneer pls
Hi Alex Thanks for your comments, unfortunately i don't know enough about RBV to do a video
what is flashing and membrane and cavity by the way... I hear a lot of these words in my class and in your videos.
Hi, i was just wondering if it was possible for termites to enter through weep holes ?
Ah ok that makes alot of sence. Thankyou ! your videos are the best on youtube!
Hello Buildsum,
Which software you are using for your presentation
Thank you
Hi Mohamed
I use Google SketchUp for all my drawings
Thank you
very nice video. you're pro! please wich software did you use for making this amazing tutorial? thank you
Hi +seydou moumouni Abdraman I use Google Sketch Up to do all my drawings.
Tank You very much sir. your videos are really well explained. that"s hepl me a lot.
Hey built sum! Im doing my constructing report for uni and I found your video is suuuuuuuper helpful!!!!
I'm just wonder about the insulation, it there just the insulation to do with the moisturize? What about the noise and thermal?
Will the brick wall be colored as finishing or there is some other finishing?
+Ruoxuan Wang Yes there would usually be some Thermal/noise insulation in between the studs.
The brick work could be painted, bagged or rendered or just left as plain brick as long as Face Brick are used
does the brick actually support the house?? and how do you know if your house is a brick veneer or mansory ???
Hi Mike, in the case of a Brick Veneer or a Double Brick house the outside brickwork is only a veneer and DOES NOT support the roof load. The best way to work it out is to have a look at the internal walls and see if they are timber or masonry, if they are timber then the house is most likely brick veneer otherwise double brick. Otherwise, you are going to have to get into the roof and have a look where the roof is pitched from. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum Thanks for your reply. I really appreciate it :) For my house, the ground floor is brick and 1st floor is whetherboard - I checked the internal walls by tapping them and it sounds hollow - so i guess my house is brick veneer - but does this brick support the whetherboard or the load of the 1st floor ?
HI Mike, yeah so the ground floor would be brick veneer and then the 1st floor would be basically a timber frame with the weatherboards fixed to the timber frame. The brickwork is definitely not loadbearing it is just a finish like the weatherboards.
@@Buildsum thank u so much !!
Wow, that was great. Love your work :)
What would the thickness of the wall from outside of brick to inside of Gyprock?
Is the air gap a standard on Brick Veneer walls?
Thanks again, i would say this is the best material i have found for Australian material.
Should of said, is the air gap dimension a standard size.
I guess im asking the wrong place but does someone know a tool to get back into an instagram account..?
I somehow lost the account password. I love any assistance you can offer me
@Gavin Edgar instablaster ;)
@Maximus Deshawn Thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Maximus Deshawn It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D