Some of the Super Touring cars at Knockhill were adding weight to the flywheel......making the car launch faster out of the hairpin. The straights are not long enough to warrant a light flywheel
Love this - mods based on real world experience and common sense, rather than picking the most expensive parts from a catalogue. Or what the great NHRA multiple Pro Stock champion and engine innovator Warren Johnson used to call Top Fuel drag racing - "mail order racing"
2.3. Pinto and later svo mustang. is really all I ever played with but love this channel. The amount of counterweight profiling on that crank is crazy.
Superb stuff. Lovely to see some proper engine building and machining done and presented in such a concise and eloquent fashion. I can barely imagine how much fun a 1.9 litre Crossflow would be too😁😎👍🏻
@@PenguinMotors chrysler had a TSB that had valve guides that slipped down on 3.0 v6 engine. They even created an on engine hand grooving tool to use on engines with the valve spring removed. Do the knurls seal air tight, a lot of vacuum in the intake and actually exhaust ports.
Hi there. I subscribed now recently but have been watching your channel prior. I love your content as it is so up me alley and i find it very informative and educational. Thank you very much for your unselfish approach to the subject matter presented. A happy subscriber.👌😎 From S.A
thanks for the comments, at heart i am a do it yourself at home guy, i have moved on a bit from when i just had a shed, a drill and a few wood chisels, but i still love to be able to do stuff without having stacks of state of the art equipment that i could only ever dream of having. these videos are the sort of stuff i used to love to read long before the internet ever existed
ideally, you want the back side of the inlet valve to match the shape of the cyl head wall, and you may ask ' why would you want to do that ' which in your case is flat and not curved, and the thinner valve stem with the std valve is bonus points. I am not sure what you mean as a down drafted port, I do not see a down drafted port, unless you mean to say, more metal removed from the top than the bottom of the port, be interesting to know the diameter of such to the beginning of the valve guide area you fellas machine to
a pinto port approaches a valve a a very shallow angle, and the air tends to shoot straight across the back of it. a penny on a stick works well in that circumstance. by comparison X/flow port is quite downdraft. the REC valves going in this head are shaped somewhere in-between a standard valve and the ones removed, they should work well
Old Piper rocker cover ? Dates back to the 1960's. I'm always suprised no other outfits produced thinly disguised copies. Much stiffer than steel replacement rocker posts.
Hey Graham, Thanks for the videos. we are using a 2l pinto in a mk1 escort build that im doing with my sons in new zealand, do you think you could talk abit about in your experience how much material you can take out of the ports of a 2ltr pinto...and just porting those heads in general? Thank you,
Cutting a chamber on the head compromises inlet port shape and shrouds the valves, the only place I can see a real benefit of a chamber head is if your trying to run the motor at 9000 rpm when a chamber probably helps a lot at trying to get the mixture burnt quick enough
TBH i dont know what it will do! 1700 engines with a 254/264 cam are often around 170bhp, 244 equipped engine more like 145 bhp , the big capacity means it wont rev like an x/flow normally does which will keep peak BHP low in comparison to torque production. so my guess is a torquey 155bhp
@@PenguinMotorshave you ever come across a 1600 cross flow block with offset bores, making it easier for the engine to run on the thrust stroke, formula ford possibly?
@@kevinharker1840 no but any gain would be absolutely tiny, its nigh on impossible to see the difference between offset and centrally located gudgen pins
Is there much power difference between a 1900 X/flow and a 2.0 Pinto? Which motor do you prefer to work on - or are they all the same to you once you get up to about a hundred rebuilds:) ??
Hi there I can easily set up and machine a little off the outside of my flywheel/s on my lathe at home, however people have warned me not to try it at all because they can explode if they're cracked, but if your flywheel is cracked I'd be inclined to think that if it's going to explode it would do so regardless of whether it's been lightened or not. What about balancing, is that something you do as well or do you just clock them up so they're running true in the lathe and machine away? Safe enough to assume if you take exactly the same amount off all the way around it shouldn't alter the original balance?
theres no issue removing material form the outside of the flywheel. they break from the middle out, removing metal from the outside actually lessens the strain on the middle bit. failure doesn't come because of cracks, it happens because cast iron has poor tensile strength, keep revs down to 6000 or so and you highly unlikely to have a problem, 8,000 plus on the other hand is another matter. Unfortunately cast iron does not have a uniform density so taking exactly the same amount off all the way round WILL change the balance, especially if you end up machining into balance holes which is highly likely
this will be on 45 DCOE, the client has supplied carbs, he has got 40's on his current engine, but hopes by going up in capacity he wont loose too much low speed power using the 45's, one thing is pretty certain though and that's i wont be leaving the current 38 chokes in them!
@@PenguinMotors it is an American engine made from the 60's thru the 90's. Many of us Ford 300/4.9 fans would like to see someone make a xflow head for it. I'm planning a 20's Racer around one. Thanks tho!!
so the counter weighting on the crank, no longer matches the conrod piston assembly % the crank maybe a bit lighter, but its moment of inertia has changed but marginally, and the aero dynamics, almost nil + you now have placed more stress on the main bearings
@@PenguinMotors I do not have to see the rods nor pistons, Any weight you save there, will not even come close to what has been removed from crank. do the maths ..this idea is simply a throw back to the dawn of dinosaurs, where some jerk thought it looked good, and that is as far as his brain cell went
to be honest i dont really know where you are coming from, no one suggested there was any weight saving element to this crank! The whole point of this crank is its a steel stroker crank which gives the engine more capacity. Unlike the original relatively weak cast iron crank its also fully counter weighted,. my client supplied it and is happy with it so thats whats being used and im sure it will work just fine :)
This engine problem is how cam motion transfer to the valvetrain, cam follower what they offer this engine is totally scrap pre-crosflow 11mm and later 13mm tapped lifters, they not work race engine!
i get where you are coming from, but myself and 99.99% of the audience live in the real world of parts and engine we can assemble out of readily available parts. if you have to totally engineer an x/flow to get 200 plus bhp you might as well just go and buy a BDA it would probably be cheaper
@@PenguinMotorsWhy bda it's old 16v engine type and parts are expensive build it. I have duratec 2.3l with two different type head version. Easy way go +300bhp.
applying that logic why try to build a 200 bhp x/flow? use either a duratec or GM xe engine a, they are both far far cheaper and will scrape 200 bhp on standard internals!
If crossflow engine build race tune it give same power than pinto, less weight and rotation mass, big valve head can breath with weber 45mm, 48mm or fuel injection set up. this engine can rev up easily 9-10k. race cam and roller rocker installation.
Geez... I’d be pissed off. you’ve gone this far and messed up the guides!?!? Use an underside reamer or get .500+x guides. I also disagree with you regarding the cross drilled mains. I work on longer stroke high rpm stuff 4.5”+ stroke ~8000 rpm and we do not use cross drilled cranks as the centrifugal force acting on the oil in the crank throw with our required clearance on the mains and rods, can cause the oil to sling out the rod more easily by action of the cross drilled main acting as an air break (its an opening to the non loaded side of the main bearing. Air is drawn in and the oil is slung out the rod leaving the rod bearing lacking oil. Cross drilled mains are for low rpm pulling engines and diesels.
Great video as usual Graham love a bit of xflow content
Some of the Super Touring cars at Knockhill were adding weight to the flywheel......making the car launch faster out of the hairpin.
The straights are not long enough to warrant a light flywheel
Love this - mods based on real world experience and common sense, rather than picking the most expensive parts from a catalogue. Or what the great NHRA multiple Pro Stock champion and engine innovator Warren Johnson used to call Top Fuel drag racing - "mail order racing"
2.3. Pinto and later svo mustang. is really all I ever played with but love this channel. The amount of counterweight profiling on that crank is crazy.
Takes me back working on escort mk1's & 2's, very informative video, looking forward to the next one, thank you.
Superb stuff.
Lovely to see some proper engine building and machining done and presented in such a concise and eloquent fashion.
I can barely imagine how much fun a 1.9 litre Crossflow would be too😁😎👍🏻
Many thanks!
Credit where it’s due Sir😎👍🏻
Tirou 1 ton. De excessos.
Put a round bottom groove on the valve guide od and a round wire retaining ring. To stop the guides from slipping down
i thought of that but the fit wasnt tight enough for my liking, knurling is an easy solution and makes the guide plenty tight enough
@@PenguinMotors chrysler had a TSB that had valve guides that slipped down on 3.0 v6 engine. They even created an on engine hand grooving tool to use on engines with the valve spring removed.
Do the knurls seal air tight, a lot of vacuum in the intake and actually exhaust ports.
@@waynep343 yes they do, even if they didnt the loctite would ensure they did
Hi there. I subscribed now recently but have been watching your channel prior. I love your content as it is so up me alley and i find it very informative and educational. Thank you very much for your unselfish approach to the subject matter presented. A happy subscriber.👌😎 From S.A
thanks for the comments, at heart i am a do it yourself at home guy, i have moved on a bit from when i just had a shed, a drill and a few wood chisels, but i still love to be able to do stuff without having stacks of state of the art equipment that i could only ever dream of having. these videos are the sort of stuff i used to love to read long before the internet ever existed
@@PenguinMotors Great stuff, i think we are 2 of a kind.👍👍Top man.
ideally, you want the back side of the inlet valve to match the shape of the cyl head wall, and you may ask ' why would you want to do that ' which in your case is flat and not curved, and the thinner valve stem with the std valve is bonus points. I am not sure what you mean as a down drafted port, I do not see a down drafted port, unless you mean to say, more metal removed from the top than the bottom of the port, be interesting to know the diameter of such to the beginning of the valve guide area you fellas machine to
a pinto port approaches a valve a a very shallow angle, and the air tends to shoot straight across the back of it. a penny on a stick works well in that circumstance. by comparison X/flow port is quite downdraft. the REC valves going in this head are shaped somewhere in-between a standard valve and the ones removed, they should work well
I have a 86 mm square X-Flow for doing hillclimbs cw integral rocker cover
Old Piper rocker cover ? Dates back to the 1960's. I'm always suprised no other outfits produced thinly disguised copies. Much stiffer than steel replacement rocker posts.
@@terryjacob8169 Ted Martin did Integral Rocker Covers as well as 3 valve cylinderhead
Hey Graham, Thanks for the videos. we are using a 2l pinto in a mk1 escort build that im doing with my sons in new zealand, do you think you could talk abit about in your experience how much material you can take out of the ports of a 2ltr pinto...and just porting those heads in general? Thank you,
Good morning, correct, lightend fly wheel, and knife edged crank shaft = irregular to low torque, engine going to work much harder
Any progress with this one Graham? Love a good x-flow 👌🏻
I have always heard that the flat head was the worse of the two performers compared to the head that has the combustion chamber.
Cutting a chamber on the head compromises inlet port shape and shrouds the valves, the only place I can see a real benefit of a chamber head is if your trying to run the motor at 9000 rpm when a chamber probably helps a lot at trying to get the mixture burnt quick enough
Do you need something to locate the bottom of the valve springs now the head is machined flat, or does the valve guide insert do the job?
Niether springs will stay put on there own
Excellent video, so informative.
What kind of bhp can you get from a xflow?
TBH i dont know what it will do! 1700 engines with a 254/264 cam are often around 170bhp, 244 equipped engine more like 145 bhp , the big capacity means it wont rev like an x/flow normally does which will keep peak BHP low in comparison to torque production. so my guess is a torquey 155bhp
@@PenguinMotors more than enough power for a forest racer, and probably a lump lighter than a pinto, throttle bodies?
@@kevinharker1840 x/flow is about 25-30 kg lighter than a pinto. this engine will be on twin 45 dcoe
@@PenguinMotorshave you ever come across a 1600 cross flow block with offset bores, making it easier for the engine to run on the thrust stroke, formula ford possibly?
@@kevinharker1840 no but any gain would be absolutely tiny, its nigh on impossible to see the difference between offset and centrally located gudgen pins
What size are the valves on this head build?
Is there much power difference between a 1900 X/flow and a 2.0 Pinto? Which motor do you prefer to work on - or are they all the same to you once you get up to about a hundred rebuilds:) ??
Given similar specs Pinto would win hands down on power and torque. I like all sorts just prefer not to keep repeating same spec
I have exhaust manifold gaskets that can cope with. 062 thou imperfections
thats good, but seeing as it was easy to make the faces flat and true at this stage it was a bit of a no brainer
how big the intake port on this head?
Hi there I can easily set up and machine a little off the outside of my flywheel/s on my lathe at home, however people have warned me not to try it at all because they can explode if they're cracked, but if your flywheel is cracked I'd be inclined to think that if it's going to explode it would do so regardless of whether it's been lightened or not. What about balancing, is that something you do as well or do you just clock them up so they're running true in the lathe and machine away? Safe enough to assume if you take exactly the same amount off all the way around it shouldn't alter the original balance?
theres no issue removing material form the outside of the flywheel. they break from the middle out, removing metal from the outside actually lessens the strain on the middle bit. failure doesn't come because of cracks, it happens because cast iron has poor tensile strength, keep revs down to 6000 or so and you highly unlikely to have a problem, 8,000 plus on the other hand is another matter. Unfortunately cast iron does not have a uniform density so taking exactly the same amount off all the way round WILL change the balance, especially if you end up machining into balance holes which is highly likely
No more videos?
Amazing job Graham...this run whit 40's /45's carbs or you thinking use ITB....??
this will be on 45 DCOE, the client has supplied carbs, he has got 40's on his current engine, but hopes by going up in capacity he wont loose too much low speed power using the 45's, one thing is pretty certain though and that's i wont be leaving the current 38 chokes in them!
Do you know of a cross flow head for a 300 Ford 6?
sorry no, to be honest i dont know what a 300 ford 6 is, presumably its American or Australian?
@@PenguinMotors it is an American engine made from the 60's thru the 90's. Many of us Ford 300/4.9 fans would like to see someone make a xflow head for it. I'm planning a 20's Racer around one.
Thanks tho!!
What crank are you using and where can we get one thanks
dont know my client supplied it
Have never had any success with parts from Kent Cams.
Piper... No problem
so the counter weighting on the crank, no longer matches the conrod piston assembly %
the crank maybe a bit lighter, but its moment of inertia has changed but marginally, and the aero dynamics, almost nil + you now have placed more stress on the main bearings
interesting comment, especially being as you haven't seen the pistons or conrods :)
@@PenguinMotors I do not have to see the rods nor pistons, Any weight you save there, will not even come close to what has been removed from crank. do the maths ..this idea is simply a throw back to the dawn of dinosaurs, where some jerk thought it looked good, and that is as far as his brain cell went
to be honest i dont really know where you are coming from, no one suggested there was any weight saving element to this crank! The whole point of this crank is its a steel stroker crank which gives the engine more capacity. Unlike the original relatively weak cast iron crank its also fully counter weighted,. my client supplied it and is happy with it so thats whats being used and im sure it will work just
fine :)
This engine problem is how cam motion transfer to the valvetrain, cam follower what they offer this engine is totally scrap pre-crosflow 11mm and later 13mm tapped lifters, they not work race engine!
i get where you are coming from, but myself and 99.99% of the audience live in the real world of parts and engine we can assemble out of readily available parts. if you have to totally engineer an x/flow to get 200 plus bhp you might as well just go and buy a BDA it would probably be cheaper
@@PenguinMotorsWhy bda it's old 16v engine type and parts are expensive build it. I have duratec 2.3l with two different type head version. Easy way go +300bhp.
applying that logic why try to build a 200 bhp x/flow? use either a duratec or GM xe engine a, they are both far far cheaper and will scrape 200 bhp on standard internals!
@@PenguinMotors ua-cam.com/video/bGF3IGgMQ1E/v-deo.html
@@PenguinMotors ua-cam.com/video/7x4AI769eHs/v-deo.html One reason it's great engine.
In South Africa when we want a 2 L we buy a pinto 😅 what a legend, I hope we get a dyno run of this motor once it’s built 🙏🏼
If crossflow engine build race tune it give same power than pinto, less weight and rotation mass, big valve head can breath with weber 45mm, 48mm or fuel injection set up. this engine can rev up easily 9-10k. race cam and roller rocker installation.
Geez... I’d be pissed off. you’ve gone this far and messed up the guides!?!? Use an underside reamer or get .500+x guides. I also disagree with you regarding the cross drilled mains. I work on longer stroke high rpm stuff 4.5”+ stroke ~8000 rpm and we do not use cross drilled cranks as the centrifugal force acting on the oil in the crank throw with our required clearance on the mains and rods, can cause the oil to sling out the rod more easily by action of the cross drilled main acting as an air break (its an opening to the non loaded side of the main bearing. Air is drawn in and the oil is slung out the rod leaving the rod bearing lacking oil. Cross drilled mains are for low rpm pulling engines and diesels.
sometimes you have to work with what your given :)
@@PenguinMotors fair enough