How long can you leave that in there before boiling again? What if you have no more sap left like at the end of the season? What do you do with what is left in pan? Hoping you have a video when you start this back up the next day.
In cold, early season weather, the contents of this pan can sit for over a week. In warm late season weather, you need to bring it to a boil every few days to sterilize it (even if you don't evaporate much from it). The only time the contents are drained from the pan during the season are to clean the pan if necessary. At the end of the year, when no more sap is to follow, this pan is drained, and the contents are finished into syrup in a smaller pan, even a stovetop pot. Remember, that every inch of depth in the Dauntless pan represents only 4 gallons of this highly concentrated sap; finishing this at the end of the season will go quickly and will yeild a lot of finished syrup.
i dont mean to be off topic but does anyone know a tool to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid lost my login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Roman Mateo thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
I just bought a dauntless divided pan evaporator and I was wondering how you moved your sight glass to your draw off fitting. Do you need a high temperature plug to change it out?
Hello. The draw-off sight glass can be used in several different configurations. You can see photos and details in the instruction guide that came with your sight glass. You can also download the guide here: www.smokylakemaple.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/SightGlass-ConnectToDraw-Off.pdf
Great video, my question is i have that same pan and boiled for 8 hrs and the temp gauge never hit the 7 mark, it got to 5-6 but never hit the 7. I was running at about 1.75 inch sap depth in pan at all times, it seems like the temp gauge was not in the boil once it hit at about 1.25 inches, i calla rated the gauge too. Any suggestions? Thx
Why would you not want firebrick in the back half of the arch? Seems to me it would help insulate and prevent heat loss, so more heat goes into the pan.
You are misunderstanding the principal and strengths of firebricks and their purpose in a maple syrup evaporator. Remember, firebrick is NOT an insulator, that's what we use is in the woodstove and in our fireplace in our home; it allows the heat to pass through to heat our living space. Think of firebrick in a maple syrup evaporator as a "necessary evil"; the only reason for it is to protect our ceramic fiber insulation from firewood, but it's heat absorption is a terrible bi-product. ONLY use firebrick where you have to, in the firebox as high up as you load wood.
Thanks for the quick reply. Just purchased many items from your company over the past 2 weeks. I’m very excited to try them all with my sons to start a family tradition of making maple syrup with the best equipment on the market. Your videos and explanations have been very helpful, and ultimately was the reason why I chose your equipment. I look forward to more videos. Thanks again!
@smokylakemapleproducts Just received my Starcat and put it together this weekend. What a fine piece of craftsmanship! The divided pan is a work of art! When Jim says their pans are the best in the world, it’s not hyperbole. Jim and Angela, any thoughts about making covers for the hobby evaporator line? Something like the covers for gas grills to at least keep out any rain that may occur between boils. I know you make covers for your pans but I don’t think I trust the wild animals (raccoons) enough to leave my sweetened pan out overnight. Love your company!
If anything, it's easier. With a batch boil pan you have very little risk of becoming over-density anywhere. Just make sure you shutdown when you have a little bit of sap left and introduce the last of it as the fire dies out completely.
@@SmokyLakeMaple I’m new to all this so forgive me if a dumb question. Do you still try to maintain the 2” on batch pan as you are adding? I assume you eventually have to get it down to 1/2”-1” to get closer to syrup assuming you started with enough. Would you just not draw it off until you say processed 80 gallons down to 1”? Just leave it in pan for maybe two weeks and keep track of how much you add and boil every couple days to keep bacteria at bay if it warms up. Currently use separate pans on a 35 gallon so I can boil smaller batches. Just seems you need decent weekly sap hauls to get to where a pan this big (even though not big) makes sense. If you only get 25 gallons a week is it overkill since you would have to do a lot of finishing on a stove since you can’t boil low enough in pan. Or just have to keep it in pan all season more or less?
I just don't stop until the job is done even if my pregnant wife is having a baby she's going to be having that baby right there while I finish the job I started.
Just bought a Dauntless from Jimmy down there can’t wait till the upcoming season.
How long can you leave that in there before boiling again? What if you have no more sap left like at the end of the season? What do you do with what is left in pan? Hoping you have a video when you start this back up the next day.
In cold, early season weather, the contents of this pan can sit for over a week. In warm late season weather, you need to bring it to a boil every few days to sterilize it (even if you don't evaporate much from it). The only time the contents are drained from the pan during the season are to clean the pan if necessary. At the end of the year, when no more sap is to follow, this pan is drained, and the contents are finished into syrup in a smaller pan, even a stovetop pot. Remember, that every inch of depth in the Dauntless pan represents only 4 gallons of this highly concentrated sap; finishing this at the end of the season will go quickly and will yeild a lot of finished syrup.
i dont mean to be off topic but does anyone know a tool to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid lost my login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Gunner Andy instablaster =)
@Roman Mateo thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Roman Mateo It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much you really help me out!
If you don’t have space for year-round storage, would a tarp similar to what you cover a snowmobile with be efficient enough to prevent damage?
I just bought a dauntless divided pan evaporator and I was wondering how you moved your sight glass to your draw off fitting. Do you need a high temperature plug to change it out?
Hello. The draw-off sight glass can be used in several different configurations. You can see photos and details in the instruction guide that came with your sight glass. You can also download the guide here: www.smokylakemaple.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/SightGlass-ConnectToDraw-Off.pdf
Great video, my question is i have that same pan and boiled for 8 hrs and the temp gauge never hit the 7 mark, it got to 5-6 but never hit the 7. I was running at about 1.75 inch sap depth in pan at all times, it seems like the temp gauge was not in the boil once it hit at about 1.25 inches, i calla rated the gauge too. Any suggestions? Thx
Really curious on how the 3 panel system works? How does it keep the various stages separated?
Why would you not want firebrick in the back half of the arch? Seems to me it would help insulate and prevent heat loss, so more heat goes into the pan.
You are misunderstanding the principal and strengths of firebricks and their purpose in a maple syrup evaporator. Remember, firebrick is NOT an insulator, that's what we use is in the woodstove and in our fireplace in our home; it allows the heat to pass through to heat our living space. Think of firebrick in a maple syrup evaporator as a "necessary evil"; the only reason for it is to protect our ceramic fiber insulation from firewood, but it's heat absorption is a terrible bi-product. ONLY use firebrick where you have to, in the firebox as high up as you load wood.
@@SmokyLakeMaple I understand, thanks!
I second his questions below
Thank you for giving this a bump! I always try to answer thoughtful questions on UA-cam.
Thanks for the quick reply. Just purchased many items from your company over the past 2 weeks. I’m very excited to try them all with my sons to start a family tradition of making maple syrup with the best equipment on the market. Your videos and explanations have been very helpful, and ultimately was the reason why I chose your equipment. I look forward to more videos. Thanks again!
@smokylakemapleproducts Just received my Starcat and put it together this weekend. What a fine piece of craftsmanship! The divided pan is a work of art! When Jim says their pans are the best in the world, it’s not hyperbole.
Jim and Angela, any thoughts about making covers for the hobby evaporator line? Something like the covers for gas grills to at least keep out any rain that may occur between boils. I know you make covers for your pans but I don’t think I trust the wild animals (raccoons) enough to leave my sweetened pan out overnight.
Love your company!
How do you shut down a batch boil pan? Does it change?
If anything, it's easier. With a batch boil pan you have very little risk of becoming over-density anywhere. Just make sure you shutdown when you have a little bit of sap left and introduce the last of it as the fire dies out completely.
@@SmokyLakeMaple I’m new to all this so forgive me if a dumb question. Do you still try to maintain the 2” on batch pan as you are adding? I assume you eventually have to get it down to 1/2”-1” to get closer to syrup assuming you started with enough. Would you just not draw it off until you say processed 80 gallons down to 1”? Just leave it in pan for maybe two weeks and keep track of how much you add and boil every couple days to keep bacteria at bay if it warms up. Currently use separate pans on a 35 gallon so I can boil smaller batches. Just seems you need decent weekly sap hauls to get to where a pan this big (even though not big) makes sense. If you only get 25 gallons a week is it overkill since you would have to do a lot of finishing on a stove since you can’t boil low enough in pan. Or just have to keep it in pan all season more or less?
I just don't stop until the job is done even if my pregnant wife is having a baby she's going to be having that baby right there while I finish the job I started.
Some people will call that "extreme". But I like it.
Oh i boiled 55 gallons that day never did hit the 7