Much simpler than I anticipated, wanting to build some weighted windows to match the others in my house in the traditional way, this absolutely made me much more confident in building the sashes!
If you size your tenons to suit whatever forstner bits you own, you can use a drill press to remove the bulk of the waste from your mortices very quickly by just marking a center line of the correct length & setting the depth on the drill press. 1 Mark, great mortices & easy. You can lap the forstner holes so there is absolutely minimal chiseling needed. Once you keep the bit on the center-line & make sure it just kisses the end of that line, you're good. Whenever I pick up a chisel, I know stuff can go bad fast if I ask too much off it. Less is better. Square the mortice using the edges of the forstner holes as your chisel guide. I use a 1" forstner bit almost always - repetition makes for goodness & I am far from naturally brilliant, so I try keep it simple - I then know I just need cut an accurate 1" tenon, clean the drilled hole using a 1" chisel (keeping it tight) & stuff will almost always go together snug with minimal marking & measuring. You can select whatever forstner bit suits - 1/2" 3/4" whatever - it keeps everything simple. Just my 2c. I cut a lot of mortice & tenons, so the easier it is, the better, IMO - there's enough to go wrong without making the marking/sizing fancy.. KISS.. :-) Make the Tenon the width of whatever bit you picked, go from there - cuts out the maths/ingenuity required. All you need to do the marking is a sliding square & a sharpie - you'll only be making 1 mark per mortice. Usually, you'll only have 3 measurements to make - waste to remove to get to the bit size on the tenon, length of the mortice & erm.... that's 2.. Yeah.. 2 measurements.. Easier. The 2 Measurements, 1 mark Mortice/Tenon - it ought be a "Thing". No marking is required for the tenon - none - marks are useless - just set the table saw to the correct depth to reach the forstner size - which is timber width minus forstner size divided by 2 (use a boggo ruler) set the fence/spacer to the correct width - which is the depth of mortice you want & run the wood through - no marks required on the tenon, but perfect tenons. You'll have to draw 1 line on actual wood - the mortice center line - but that's it, boiled down to the real essentials - just 1 line. Easy peasy. :-) Do it this way & you can chuck all the fancy marking stuff in yer bin - it's not needed. You'll only be drawing 1 simple line per mortice & tenon. Try it - you'll see. This way you also only need own 2 chisels - a 1" & a 1/2". Those 2 will cut everything. I have 2 chisels... plenty. I should do a "1 Mark Mortice & tenon" Video. Nobody would ever bother marking stuff up any other way ever again & 90% of marking gear would get binned. It's always just too complicated once you go beyond 1 or 2 marks - so lets not. 1 is loads. If you followed that ^ & do woodwork it ought be a revelation - how to mark perfect mortice & tenon joints repeatedly by drawing just one single simple line using just a ruler - but I have a feeling it will go "Whooosh" tbh... it usually does.
I 100% agree with you, I currently don’t have a drill press, or else that’s exactly how I would do it. I actually have a hollow chisel Mortiser, it just needs a little TLC before I can use it😂. Thanks for your info, someone else watching may have a drill press and this could really benefit them. 👍🏻
@@brewbuilds I don't think you really even need the drill press - I'd say a cordless drill & some care would get the same results. You just need a set of cheapo forstner bits, 2 chisels, a ruler & a sharpie - bang, perfect mortises. |:-)
It works well if the wood is thick enough! I was making some mortises straight through the center of the board and was having blowout on the backside of the board, even going slow and backing it with some scrap
Yeah I’ve ran into that same problem myself. Thanks for sharing, it’s always nice to get these comments to help add value for other people that are learning. 👍🏻
How do I approach this if both lumber are not the same width. Eg. Putting a square foot in a table top. Do I just make the tenon and scribe each left on the table top for exact match?
How do you feel about those Dewalt chisels? I have the harbor freight ones and found they won't hold an edge so I was thinking of splurging on some Narex Richters.
I have the harbor freight ones also, and the dewalt’s are definitely better. They do fine for what I do, but I definitely want to upgrade to something nicer.
Thanks for the video! I cut my M&T joints exactly as you. Tell me about your spiral up cut bit. Yours looks much longer than mine. Do you know how long yours is?
Thanks for the positive feedback man! The bit is a freud 1/4” up cut spiral bit that I bought at home depot It’s marketed with 1” cut length, but from the minimum collet burry mark on the bit you get around 1-1/2” o actual cut depth if I remember correctly. In the video my mortise depth was about 1-5/16” or so.
if a pro had made the mortices & tenons then they would have got the mortice & tenon ratio right , just because you have professional tools and machinery doesn't make you a professional.
Much simpler than I anticipated, wanting to build some weighted windows to match the others in my house in the traditional way, this absolutely made me much more confident in building the sashes!
If you size your tenons to suit whatever forstner bits you own, you can use a drill press to remove the bulk of the waste from your mortices very quickly by just marking a center line of the correct length & setting the depth on the drill press. 1 Mark, great mortices & easy. You can lap the forstner holes so there is absolutely minimal chiseling needed. Once you keep the bit on the center-line & make sure it just kisses the end of that line, you're good. Whenever I pick up a chisel, I know stuff can go bad fast if I ask too much off it. Less is better.
Square the mortice using the edges of the forstner holes as your chisel guide. I use a 1" forstner bit almost always - repetition makes for goodness & I am far from naturally brilliant, so I try keep it simple - I then know I just need cut an accurate 1" tenon, clean the drilled hole using a 1" chisel (keeping it tight) & stuff will almost always go together snug with minimal marking & measuring. You can select whatever forstner bit suits - 1/2" 3/4" whatever - it keeps everything simple. Just my 2c. I cut a lot of mortice & tenons, so the easier it is, the better, IMO - there's enough to go wrong without making the marking/sizing fancy.. KISS.. :-)
Make the Tenon the width of whatever bit you picked, go from there - cuts out the maths/ingenuity required. All you need to do the marking is a sliding square & a sharpie - you'll only be making 1 mark per mortice. Usually, you'll only have 3 measurements to make - waste to remove to get to the bit size on the tenon, length of the mortice & erm.... that's 2.. Yeah.. 2 measurements.. Easier. The 2 Measurements, 1 mark Mortice/Tenon - it ought be a "Thing".
No marking is required for the tenon - none - marks are useless - just set the table saw to the correct depth to reach the forstner size - which is timber width minus forstner size divided by 2 (use a boggo ruler) set the fence/spacer to the correct width - which is the depth of mortice you want & run the wood through - no marks required on the tenon, but perfect tenons. You'll have to draw 1 line on actual wood - the mortice center line - but that's it, boiled down to the real essentials - just 1 line. Easy peasy. :-) Do it this way & you can chuck all the fancy marking stuff in yer bin - it's not needed. You'll only be drawing 1 simple line per mortice & tenon. Try it - you'll see. This way you also only need own 2 chisels - a 1" & a 1/2". Those 2 will cut everything. I have 2 chisels... plenty.
I should do a "1 Mark Mortice & tenon" Video. Nobody would ever bother marking stuff up any other way ever again & 90% of marking gear would get binned. It's always just too complicated once you go beyond 1 or 2 marks - so lets not. 1 is loads.
If you followed that ^ & do woodwork it ought be a revelation - how to mark perfect mortice & tenon joints repeatedly by drawing just one single simple line using just a ruler - but I have a feeling it will go "Whooosh" tbh... it usually does.
I 100% agree with you, I currently don’t have a drill press, or else that’s exactly how I would do it. I actually have a hollow chisel Mortiser, it just needs a little TLC before I can use it😂. Thanks for your info, someone else watching may have a drill press and this could really benefit them. 👍🏻
@@brewbuilds I don't think you really even need the drill press - I'd say a cordless drill & some care would get the same results. You just need a set of cheapo forstner bits, 2 chisels, a ruler & a sharpie - bang, perfect mortises. |:-)
@@jamesward5721 for sure. I stopped using pencils or sharpies for my joinery layout. Anymore I use a marking knife.
It works well if the wood is thick enough! I was making some mortises straight through the center of the board and was having blowout on the backside of the board, even going slow and backing it with some scrap
Yeah I’ve ran into that same problem myself. Thanks for sharing, it’s always nice to get these comments to help add value for other people that are learning. 👍🏻
Exactly what I was looking for - thanks Rob!
No problem, thanks for watching!
Nice video thanks. Appreciated. I'd buy a wireless DJI mic to cut out the workshop echo.
Thank you!
At the time of this the video the dji mic didn’t exist. 😂 but I do have one now. 😉
Many thanks, that’s exactly what I was looking to compare.
I’m glad I could help, thanks for watching! 👍🏻
How do I approach this if both lumber are not the same width. Eg. Putting a square foot in a table top. Do I just make the tenon and scribe each left on the table top for exact match?
Nice video man thanks
I’m sorry I’m about 2 months late. You are welcome! If you ever have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out Brewbuilds2@gmail.com
How do you feel about those Dewalt chisels? I have the harbor freight ones and found they won't hold an edge so I was thinking of splurging on some Narex Richters.
I have the harbor freight ones also, and the dewalt’s are definitely better. They do fine for what I do, but I definitely want to upgrade to something nicer.
Thanks for the video! I cut my M&T joints exactly as you. Tell me about your spiral up cut bit. Yours looks much longer than mine. Do you know how long yours is?
Thanks for the positive feedback man! The bit is a freud 1/4” up cut spiral bit that I bought at home depot It’s marketed with 1” cut length, but from the minimum collet burry mark on the bit you get around 1-1/2” o actual cut depth if I remember correctly. In the video my mortise depth was about 1-5/16” or so.
@@brewbuilds
Thanks for the feedback! I’ll take a look at HD. The bit I’m using is just short of 3/4”. Really appreciate it!
@@stevesiefken6432 no problem! When I get back home I can get you actual measurements of it if you would like.👍🏻
@@brewbuilds I would really appreciate it!
So my up cut spiral bit is 2” overall length, the cutting portion is 1” and from the tip to the minimum burry line is 1-5/8”. Hope that helps man!
How did you cut your finger 😜
I’d rather not talk about it. 😂😂
Happens even to the best of us 😅
We came for the good content, not for the "music". Don't ruin your videos with it.
if a pro had made the mortices & tenons then they would have got the mortice & tenon ratio right , just because you have professional tools and machinery doesn't make you a professional.
What ratio do you normally use when making your mortise and tenon joints?