Have a John Deere LA125, that apparently has the same motor, followed you video to a T, zero issues, fired right up, no smoke, no oil leak through the fuel pump. Thank you for this, probably saved me at least a couple hundred bucks.
Even though those engines are noted for blowing the head gasket at the push rod gallery,here's a couple tips from my 48 years of small engine repair: #1:remove hood. #2,check compression,AND vacuum. (That pump operates on vacuum pulses,from the crank case.If the crankcase vacuum is too high,it usually means the breather is plugged.,and too low, the breather is stuck open).High vacuum draws oil,from the crank case.) #3 NEVER remove ,or install bolts,or spark plugs ,on a HOT aluminum engine,as it mat strip the threads ! #4 Never pull on the spark plug wire,always the boot.
Thank you so much for this- I just bought a place with 2 acres and my mower failed with a blown head gasket into my first mowing. Took me roughly 2 hrs once I had the gasket purchased and the mower started right up. Appreciate you saving me time and money!!
Thanks so much foir this video instruction. I watched it several times and was able to replace my headgasket and my John Deere LA 105 is running without any leaking or smoke. You did a great job explaining the process!
Thanks for this. I followed it to fix my Husqvarna with the same engine. I just compressed the valve springs to put the rockers back on the pushrods so was able to keep valves in spec and avoid messing with them.
We’ll, i changed mine today. I did exactly what you did and it worked perfectly! No more white smoke and no more oil coming out of the fuel pump. Gasket blew in the exact same spot yours did. Thanks again, you’re the man!
Thank you so much I have had a oil leak coming from the fuel pump and kept getting worse until it would make the mower cut out, so I was going to buy a new one until I priced the new john deere and it's more than double now so I followed your great instructions and it started right up and is running fine now....
Man… thank you for this. I replaced a pulley on my deck and went to test it out and smoke was rollinggg out of the exhaust. I noticed oil all over the fuel filter and pump. I’m like why the hell is oil coming from a fuel pump. Now I know 🤣.. tomorrow’s Sunday project coming right up
Best thing I found to remove old gaskets is soaking the stuck on pieces of gaskets with hot water. Then razor blade at a right angle perpendicular to the surface won’t scratch it. Then clean up with a maroon 3m metal polishing scotchbrite pad. Keep soaking with hot water each layer of gasket you take off if it is dry.
My Briggs & Stratton lawnmower engine had these exact issues. I replaced the cylinder head gasket, the carburetor, and the fuel pump and she ran fine. I changed the oil afterward as well.
The B&S repair manual lists the tightening pattern you showed but cautions to torque the bolts initially at 1/3rd the specification, followed by 2/3rd and then finally the final full torque spec. This is to prevent head warping.
As soon as that plug wire snapped I started laughing my butt off. Then that “son of ahh” with the rooster crowing.. by this point I am howling! That was so funny. Just one of those little things that can crack you up sometimes.
I had this issue with my Briggs Vanguard V-twin 18 hp.on my Deere LX-288,after 10 years of mowing 14 acres of lawn,it blew the right cylinder head gasket,this was a very controversial issue with possibly replacing the left bank cylinder,I decided to do the"unblown cylinder"anyway,I made another decision that I would not use the replacement Briggs head gaskets and go with COPPER gaskets. It will never blow another head gasket.😎👍
Awesome video! Thank You SO Very Much for the information and instructions in this video. i have the same engine and problem on my engine in my craftsman LT 1000 ride on mower engine. i am replacing the cylinder head gasket, the valve cover gasket, and i bought a new carb for it too. i used a putty knife litely with a copper brush with carb and choke cleaner to clean the old gaskets off. love watching your videos. :) :)
Good fix. I get many of those Briggs engines with blown gaskets in the same area as the one you repaired. Don't know if Briggs came out with a better gasket or not. This issue is to much space between bolts near the valves. Thanks for the video.
for plug wires, hoses, or any rubber part, alcohol is the answer. In this instance, if you wipe off the dirt, then pour _(or spray is better)_ plain rubbing alcohol on the spark plug wire, then some in the plug boot, it will slide on easily. And what I like most about this method is that the alcohol dries, it doesn't make the parts come apart later on like grease does _(which is what some people use)_ this is especially good for hoses as you don't them come off later on. I've used this little trick for years, especially handy when working in confined spaces where you don't have good leverage to fit the parts together. I always like soldering wires onto their connectors too, as you don't have to worry about bad connections or corrosion issues near as much.
A good crimp connection with quality self ratcheting crimping tools made for the job is more reliable and faster than soldering. Buy quality heat shrink terminals and your corrosion problems are also non existent.
The B&S 17.5HP engine is very famous for blown head gaskets AND broken compression release mechanisms on the cam. I have one with about 100 hrs on it that I've had to replace the cam twice because the compression release centrifugal weight broke.
Those alignment pins for the head simple slide out, and out of your way for cleaning the block surface. I bought an after market head gasket because it has more surface area in the area between the cylinder and the valve cavity. Also I figured that it can't be worse than the OEM since they all fail in time anyway, hehe. ($9.57 delivered)
Piston rings and engine bearings don't like sanding grit. Rotate the piston to BDC (the bottom of the bore) and stuff rags or shop towels in the cylinder before making fine grit with the sanding sponge.
Somebody had been into that valve cover before and used good ole blue permatex. Hate seeing that. Especially since the proper gasket is easy to make or cheap to buy.
Mine has 450 hrs on it and this is its second gasket. I thought I was going to replace it today, but I guess I wont cause it looks like the Amazon guy rolled it up and put it in his pocket. Cracked in 4 places, although only 2 are around the cylinder itself the other 2 are around the pushrod area. And of course once I replace the gasket I will need to readjust the valves anyway because the only reason it starts below 50 degrees is the blown gasket letting compression out. You would think B&S had never made an engine before this one.
Thanks for the video and easy to follow instructions! How many man hours would you guess it took from start to complete...minus the recording time and all the extra.
I've noticed my 17hp briggs on my john deere has a small thimble shapped part that came with new head gasket kit. Not sure but it looks like it goes in the hole that is between the two push rods. I'm trying to figure out if I need it, or if it will work without it. As even with it sitting there their is still a hole for oil I think, to come out of it.
why has nobody asked the obvious question - how does the oil get into the fuel pump and start leaking out mostly only at idle? the impulse comes from the valves and maybe the pressure back feeds the line at lower rpm because of less pressure. Great to know oil coming out of the fuel pump is head gasket - what do you do if you have two cylinders to actually diagnose without pulling both heads or guessing which one? THEY SAY SMOKE COMING FROM OIL DIPSTICK TUBE ALSO INDICATES THE SAME BLOWN HEADGASKET!!!! WHY DOES THE OIL COME FROM FUEL PUMP? HOW DO U ISOLATE V TWIN WITH BLOWN HEADGASKET TO ONLY ONE CYLINDER? the rest of this is fluff (great fluff for single cylinder owners and great video for single cylinder owners) - i have only seen the single cylinder head gasket troubleshooting which is lovely if you have a single cylinder? Do them both is great if you have time, order all the right stuff to repair - but will never answer which cylinder head gasket is bad - maybe you can disconnect one spark plug and run it up and back down to see if oil comes out, then do the other side after you connect back up the first disconnected side?
a leaking head gasket can allow excessive air pressure/combustion gases to pump back inside the engine. This extra pressure can cause oil to evacuate out through the fuel pump.
Richard. To better explain how it does that, these fuel pumps are vacuum driven and when the bad gasket causes increased back pressure into the engine block it pushes the oil through the vacuum line that connects to the fuel pump. Over filling oil and a bad crankcase breather can cause this too.
Also Richard, to properly diagnose b4 tear down, on either 1 cylinder or 2, a compression test or leak down test is required. Sometimes you can hear or feel where the air is escaping during these tests, some people pump fog into the engine during a leak down test to see where it escapes from
I see he put the valve cover on and did not oil the push rods rockers or springs oil the parts before putting on the valve cover so everything does not start up dry Jeff my friend you should know that.. Ill say great job
awfully suspicious that this "john deere" looks, and is built, almost identically to my 15 year old poulan _(which had the same issue just a few weeks ago, which is why I got the mower free :=)_ ... only difference the john deere is green and costs a lot more... LoL I use a scotch brite pad to clean the head and block surfaces and remove old gasket, but a razor blade in the really tough flat areas, fine sand paper for curved non-flat areas, just to remove the bulk, then go back to scotch brite pad. You caught that one early, as the build up wasn't too bad. When I did this job on this poulan, it took me a couple hours just to clean the head, block, and piston. Even had to carefully completely clean the valves and seats, and went ahead and lapped them in. It was all REALLY cruded up bad, really hard build up on all of it. I don't even know how it was running. Oil was not only coming out the fuel system, but also the air filter had so much oil in it, I had to wash it out in a container of gasoline. The whole engine, frame and about everything else was also covered in oil. Took two days total (well a few hours each day), but cleaned it all up, replaced the headgasket, and it runs great now. never saw a OHV valve cover stuck on that tight either. Someone must have used Permatex "The Right Stuff" Gasket Maker (grey color version) on that thing. It is supposed to have a regular gasket. But some RTV will work too.
@Robert Kuhnke yep, but after disassembly and cleaning I found the head has some cracks in the intake tube coming from the carb. Have no idea why or how that could even happen. But in any case, who knows how long it will last.
@ Jeff's Little Engine Service I've been a subscriber for a longtime. I have a question about decks. I have a Scott's by John Deere 17hp 42in. cut. I had a spindle lock up and wondered how interchangeable are they? I'm having trouble finding the exact part do to it seems like the former owner mixed parts with the 16hp 42in.
Thanks for the video, i bet this fixes it (again). Never designed a head gasket before, but curious if the fact that it always blows in the same spot is because it is the NARROWEST part, despite the fact theres room for 30-50% more gasket in that location?
Seems crazy that there's plenty off surface between the cylinder and push rods and there's a tiny slither off a gasket between them! Surely if the gasket was wider it would help towards stopping them blowing?
@@mals4400 Exactly the problem ! Nothing there to hold the gasket in place in the most vulnerable area. It's like a ravioli, the edges are pinched together and the middle expands until something gives. LOL
Hey Jeff. Great video. I just crossed the 50 hour mark and today noticed a puff of white smoke when I throttle down. I have about 10 hours of fall work to do and then can lay the machine up. My question is, when I notice the puff of smoke will I be doing excessive damage if I wait for the repair? I would prefer to take my time as an amateur and do the work this winter
I don't think any damage can occur as long as oil level doesn't get low so you can run it! Always warm up the engine for 1-2 minutes before putting it to work to help prevent head gasket failures
Uh yeah a lot can go wrong if you ignore too long. Actually you can see Jeff's video on lower (crank) gasket repair. Pressure from the head into the crank will blow that gasket too.
@ Jeff's Little Engine Service,Well said,absolutely warm it up couple mins,peeps do not realize the load the mower deck puts on the engine....bit like turning a/c on a 4cyl car engine,you feel the load......
I saw somewhere here on UA-cam, a guy used a 400 grit sandpaper piece to remove and clean the head and the valve cover. I wonder what's the best way to remove all the old remnants of the old gasket? safely for us novice mechanics
@@edhoward7420 Yep I took mine off as everyone who has a video was doing. Then I got to looking at it and bolted it back on, then removed it by tilting it correctly! Crazy what we find out on our own even after watching a full blown video on some task. Glad someone else saw this as well.
Jeff not sure what you were expecting to happen when pulling on spark plug wire and not the boot lol also never use a razor blade your just asking for trouble , red 3M pad with brake clean will take everything off with zero chance of hurting surfaces
Next time help yourself by removing the hood PS I just got a powr karft 18,5 twin I/c Briggs and Stratton 42.inch cut hydro transmission oh by the way you did the right thing and removed the hood 😀 great job with that one 🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
Correct. It is a metal reed valve. You have to remove the flywheel to get to it. If it gets clogged up it can cause the engine as it pumps oil into the carb via the crankcase vent tube.
I was just working on one of these yesterday. The starter seized up and wouldn't turn over at all. I located a used starter for $25 while a new one was $125. Should make my friend happy.
Mine just blew today… but it went into the oil galley and up! Started foaming oil out of the top of the head :( This mower came with the house I just bough. Replaced the battery.. fresh gas… and two laps around the yard later.. poof haha. Darn it!!
Hey jeff I got a question about a deck problem I got a silver craftsman lt2000 that after i engage the blades I can’t get it 2 disengage I pulled the deck off the mower and I sprayed some carb cleaner 2 luve up all the pullies and it still ain’t disengagin so i wonderin if u could give me some tips on it
True but the testers are expensive and most DIYers don't have one. The head is so easy to remove on these little one cylinder engines that it's almost not worth the trouble to do a leak test as 95% of the time it's the head gasket. :-)
I never use goop on the valve cover. I make a gasket with a cereal box. Much easier to get off if you have to.Put some grease on the cardboard. I have never had any trouble doing this
The manual says if there is a gasket replace with a gasket. If there is silicon sealer, replace with silicon sealer. But you rarely see them with gaskets anymore. I've done engines both ways and the next time it is torn apart the gasket is just as hard to remove as is the silicon sealer.
Apply grease, not silicone. an old trick an old mechanic told me 50 years ago ,I never put gasket sealer on any gasket. Only grease I have working cars and mowers for over 60 years and have never owned a tube of gasket sealer.
That is expensive I got a craftsman lt2000 that got a intek engine that has a different air filter im havin problems with the deck not disengagin on it
Good comment and good eye! I rewatched it and it does look like the new gasket should be wider where you are describing. However, I looked at the original gasket I took off earlier in the video and luckily it was shaped the same
![ОРБАН приехал к ПУТИНУ и "отчитался" о поездке в Киев 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_0ukDovOWq8/mqdefault.jpg)
![ОРБАН приехал к ПУТИНУ и "отчитался" о поездке в Киев 😁 [Пародия]](/img/tr.png)
Have a John Deere LA125, that apparently has the same motor, followed you video to a T, zero issues, fired right up, no smoke, no oil leak through the fuel pump. Thank you for this, probably saved me at least a couple hundred bucks.
Hi , I have heard of this problem with engines. Thank You for showing me how to repair. Thanks Friend
Even though those engines are noted for blowing the head gasket at the push rod gallery,here's a couple tips from my 48 years of small engine repair:
#1:remove hood.
#2,check compression,AND vacuum.
(That pump operates on vacuum pulses,from the crank case.If the crankcase vacuum is too high,it usually means the breather is plugged.,and too low, the breather is stuck open).High vacuum draws oil,from the crank case.)
#3 NEVER remove ,or install bolts,or spark plugs ,on a HOT aluminum engine,as it mat strip the threads !
#4 Never pull on the spark plug wire,always the boot.
great tips John, thanks!
Where do you attach your vacuum gauge and what is the correct vacuum for this engine?
Best valve adjustment instructions out there. Very thorough. My first attempt at any kind of small engine repair and it worked great! Thank you!
Nice work!
Great job. Just replaced the head gasket on a D110 and this video was awesome. Chur
when working outside in the stones or grass I usually put a blanket under the machine so if anything falls I can find it easier.
Great tip!
cardboard works too, use that a lot. Also use it in the shop to catch oil and ect if it misses container.
I stake down a large plastic tarp.
Thank you so much for this- I just bought a place with 2 acres and my mower failed with a blown head gasket into my first mowing. Took me roughly 2 hrs once I had the gasket purchased and the mower started right up. Appreciate you saving me time and money!!
Glad it helped
Thanks so much foir this video instruction. I watched it several times and was able to replace my headgasket and my John Deere LA 105 is running without any leaking or smoke. You did a great job explaining the process!
Glad it helped! Thank you for the nice comment
Thank you for your video about changing the pan gasket of a D170, I successfully did it today. I’ll install tomarrow and fingers crossed
I have the same problem with oil blowing out the fuel pump. Thanks for your excellent video!
Glad it helped
I fixed this problem on my Craftsman tractor using the information in this video. Best one on this problem!
Glad it helped!
This may be an oldie but a goodie. TONS OF GOOD INFO. Valve adjustment as good as it gets. Great job.
Thanks friend, Happy that it helped!
Thanks nice real back yard work .
My Cub cadet is doing the same exact thing thank you for this video sir
Another thing I do is use a little plastic step stool for a chair. Saves your back. Easy to move around.
Thanks for this. I followed it to fix my Husqvarna with the same engine. I just compressed the valve springs to put the rockers back on the pushrods so was able to keep valves in spec and avoid messing with them.
Glad it helped
Sweet repair!
Great real world repair.. Best to you and yours.
Thanks Ray. Best to you as well.
Excellent work Mr. Jeff 🙋💪👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the support your momma! You have my back
Thanks Jeff great video as usual
Thanks for watching
Priceless video, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great Job. Now you'll have to fix that surging problem in the carby.
That's the plan!
@@JeffsLittleEngineService have you done the video for it mate? I couldn't find it
We’ll, i changed mine today. I did exactly what you did and it worked perfectly! No more white smoke and no more oil coming out of the fuel pump. Gasket blew in the exact same spot yours did. Thanks again, you’re the man!
I have watched a lot of these videos and this one is really right on point for how to adjust the valves correctly,, great info, thanks.
Thanks for watching Big Dog!
Thanks Jeff
Thank you so much I have had a oil leak coming from the fuel pump and kept getting worse until it would make the mower cut out, so I was going to buy a new one until I priced the new john deere and it's more than double now so I followed your great instructions and it started right up and is running fine now....
Glad it helped! Good job!
That's a first for me...great job Jeff
Thanks!
Man… thank you for this. I replaced a pulley on my deck and went to test it out and smoke was rollinggg out of the exhaust. I noticed oil all over the fuel filter and pump. I’m like why the hell is oil coming from a fuel pump. Now I know 🤣.. tomorrow’s Sunday project coming right up
Totally appreciated you taking the time and the added info, if i had a 3rd thumb I'd give ya it. Thanks for a great video !
Awesome! Thank you!
Good job,,valves & piston top in great nic 👍👍
brass wheel on cordless drill on medium speed is my ticket to clean gasket surfaces 👌
Great tip!
Best thing I found to remove old gaskets is soaking the stuck on pieces of gaskets with hot water. Then razor blade at a right angle perpendicular to the surface won’t scratch it. Then clean up with a maroon 3m metal polishing scotchbrite pad. Keep soaking with hot water each layer of gasket you take off if it is dry.
Head gasket.
Pull the oil stick out after warm and Smokey vapor flows out to.
good tip
Lo Kim yes
I gotta do our 2009 LA-115 after 249 hours just started to smoke & burn some oil lately. Thank you.
Ive got a 155 c. Same p r oblem. My winter project. Lol.
That hood should come off without removing any bolts. Lift up about half way then it slides out.
I realize Im kinda off topic but do anyone know of a good site to watch new series online ?
@Baker Colton Flixportal :D
@Kolton Theo Thank you, signed up and it seems like a nice service =) Appreciate it !!
@Baker Colton Glad I could help xD
My Briggs & Stratton lawnmower engine had these exact issues. I replaced the cylinder head gasket, the carburetor, and the fuel pump and she ran fine. I changed the oil afterward as well.
Good job!
The B&S repair manual lists the tightening pattern you showed but cautions to torque the bolts initially at 1/3rd the specification, followed by 2/3rd and then finally the final full torque spec. This is to prevent head warping.
Yes it does indeed!
That's generally the method used in most automotive applications
Referred to as "torque to yield"
As soon as that plug wire snapped I started laughing my butt off. Then that “son of ahh” with the rooster crowing.. by this point I am howling! That was so funny. Just one of those little things that can crack you up sometimes.
Hi Jeff it’s been along time since I seen a video yours I’m watching one today
I had this issue with my Briggs Vanguard V-twin 18 hp.on my Deere LX-288,after 10 years of mowing 14 acres of lawn,it blew the right cylinder head gasket,this was a very controversial issue with possibly replacing the left bank cylinder,I decided to do the"unblown cylinder"anyway,I made another decision that I would not use the replacement Briggs head gaskets and go with COPPER gaskets.
It will never blow another head gasket.😎👍
@4 gauge, copper gasket,awesome,way to go 👍 but damn you got a great run out of your mower with amount of work she done too,wicked 🤙🍻
Where do you get the copper head gaskets
My mower doing same, this video may save me few hundred bucks repair.. thank you
Glad to help
Man you sound like Michael Douglas dude ! Good job. Thanks.
Thanks for watching
Awesome video! Thank You SO Very Much for the information and instructions in this video. i have the same engine and problem on my engine in my craftsman LT 1000 ride on mower engine. i am replacing the cylinder head gasket, the valve cover gasket, and i bought a new carb for it too. i used a putty knife litely with a copper brush with carb and choke cleaner to clean the old gaskets off. love watching your videos. :) :)
Thanks for watching Warren
Good on you Jeff.
thanksman
Thank you
Good fix. I get many of those Briggs engines with blown gaskets in the same area as the one you repaired. Don't know if Briggs came out with a better gasket or not. This issue is to much space between bolts near the valves. Thanks for the video.
Yes, I think the gasket should be wider at that spot for sure
They have an upgraded gasket now.
@@jamesneal4591 Is it a new part number? I just replaced one a month ago and the new gasket looked just like the one that was in the engine.
@@eosjoe565 the number I found is # 693997 I think it is a small amount thicker and is stronger.
for plug wires, hoses, or any rubber part, alcohol is the answer. In this instance, if you wipe off the dirt, then pour _(or spray is better)_ plain rubbing alcohol on the spark plug wire, then some in the plug boot, it will slide on easily. And what I like most about this method is that the alcohol dries, it doesn't make the parts come apart later on like grease does _(which is what some people use)_ this is especially good for hoses as you don't them come off later on. I've used this little trick for years, especially handy when working in confined spaces where you don't have good leverage to fit the parts together.
I always like soldering wires onto their connectors too, as you don't have to worry about bad connections or corrosion issues near as much.
good tips!
A good crimp connection with quality self ratcheting crimping tools made for the job is more reliable and faster than soldering. Buy quality heat shrink terminals and your corrosion problems are also non existent.
Mines not smoking but blowing oil out fuel pump. Going to tackle the job tomorrow.
Nice Video ! I think I'll got to Home Depot , see what sales they have going.
The B&S 17.5HP engine is very famous for blown head gaskets AND broken compression release mechanisms on the cam. I have one with about 100 hrs on it that I've had to replace the cam twice because the compression release centrifugal weight broke.
yes you are right.
I know a Friend that has a intek 17.5 with over 500hrs with just oil changes and spark plugs
Lololo like if you own one order parts asap
11:22 - 12:31 my point exactly that is why I hate gasket maker and all mower I get I always put a valve cover gasket on there makes it easier 2 remove
I agree, kinda weird that some of those engines require a gasket and some require the messy liquid gasket.
Those alignment pins for the head simple slide out, and out of your way for cleaning the block surface. I bought an after market head gasket because it has more surface area in the area between the cylinder and the valve cavity. Also I figured that it can't be worse than the OEM since they all fail in time anyway, hehe. ($9.57 delivered)
Good tip!
Leak down test is fast and on the money
Fuel pump leaking oil pretty common so replace it
Bosch spark plugs are good for push mowers,riding mowers & tillers
Piston rings and engine bearings don't like sanding grit. Rotate the piston to BDC (the bottom of the bore) and stuff rags or shop towels in the cylinder before making fine grit with the sanding sponge.
Hood is removed by opening at 45° and tilting off Sideways. You can remove the bolt like you did but not necessary
That's the info I needed! thanks for watching!
love your torque wrench skills... 220 inch pounds click then just keep going with it until you feel like they are tight to your specs
exactly, my calibrated wrist tells me when to stop
I have this problem still after replacing the head gasket. Oil lvl is fine
Will you try to do a valve job video. I like your style.
Somebody had been into that valve cover before and used good ole blue permatex. Hate seeing that. Especially since the proper gasket is easy to make or cheap to buy.
Tip number 1 ! Remove the hood.
I too cannot figure out why you did not just take the hood off.
Mine has 450 hrs on it and this is its second gasket. I thought I was going to replace it today, but I guess I wont cause it looks like the Amazon guy rolled it up and put it in his pocket. Cracked in 4 places, although only 2 are around the cylinder itself the other 2 are around the pushrod area.
And of course once I replace the gasket I will need to readjust the valves anyway because the only reason it starts below 50 degrees is the blown gasket letting compression out. You would think B&S had never made an engine before this one.
I found it best to put the rtv on the valve cover and just snug it then tighten it later. Grey rtv will set quick so like an hour or so then tighten.
Good tip!
Thanks for the video and easy to follow instructions! How many man hours would you guess it took from start to complete...minus the recording time and all the extra.
3-4 hours mostly time spent scraping gaskets..
I've noticed my 17hp briggs on my john deere has a small thimble shapped part that came with new head gasket kit. Not sure but it looks like it goes in the hole that is between the two push rods. I'm trying to figure out if I need it, or if it will work without it. As even with it sitting there their is still a hole for oil I think, to come out of it.
not sure what that is
why has nobody asked the obvious question - how does the oil get into the fuel pump and start leaking out mostly only at idle? the impulse comes from the valves and maybe the pressure back feeds the line at lower rpm because of less pressure.
Great to know oil coming out of the fuel pump is head gasket - what do you do if you have two cylinders to actually diagnose without pulling both heads or guessing which one?
THEY SAY SMOKE COMING FROM OIL DIPSTICK TUBE ALSO INDICATES THE SAME BLOWN HEADGASKET!!!!
WHY DOES THE OIL COME FROM FUEL PUMP? HOW DO U ISOLATE V TWIN WITH BLOWN HEADGASKET TO ONLY ONE CYLINDER?
the rest of this is fluff (great fluff for single cylinder owners and great video for single cylinder owners) - i have only seen the single cylinder head gasket troubleshooting which is lovely if you have a single cylinder? Do them both is great if you have time, order all the right stuff to repair - but will never answer which cylinder head gasket is bad - maybe you can disconnect one spark plug and run it up and back down to see if oil comes out, then do the other side after you connect back up the first disconnected side?
a leaking head gasket can allow excessive air pressure/combustion gases to pump back inside the engine. This extra pressure can cause oil to evacuate out through the fuel pump.
Richard. To better explain how it does that, these fuel pumps are vacuum driven and when the bad gasket causes increased back pressure into the engine block it pushes the oil through the vacuum line that connects to the fuel pump. Over filling oil and a bad crankcase breather can cause this too.
Also Richard, to properly diagnose b4 tear down, on either 1 cylinder or 2, a compression test or leak down test is required. Sometimes you can hear or feel where the air is escaping during these tests, some people pump fog into the engine during a leak down test to see where it escapes from
I see he put the valve cover on and did not oil the push rods rockers or springs
oil the parts before putting on the valve cover
so everything does not start up dry Jeff my friend you should know that..
Ill say great job
yep dry start is not good
awfully suspicious that this "john deere" looks, and is built, almost identically to my 15 year old poulan _(which had the same issue just a few weeks ago, which is why I got the mower free :=)_ ... only difference the john deere is green and costs a lot more... LoL
I use a scotch brite pad to clean the head and block surfaces and remove old gasket, but a razor blade in the really tough flat areas, fine sand paper for curved non-flat areas, just to remove the bulk, then go back to scotch brite pad.
You caught that one early, as the build up wasn't too bad. When I did this job on this poulan, it took me a couple hours just to clean the head, block, and piston. Even had to carefully completely clean the valves and seats, and went ahead and lapped them in. It was all REALLY cruded up bad, really hard build up on all of it. I don't even know how it was running. Oil was not only coming out the fuel system, but also the air filter had so much oil in it, I had to wash it out in a container of gasoline. The whole engine, frame and about everything else was also covered in oil. Took two days total (well a few hours each day), but cleaned it all up, replaced the headgasket, and it runs great now.
never saw a OHV valve cover stuck on that tight either. Someone must have used Permatex "The Right Stuff" Gasket Maker (grey color version) on that thing. It is supposed to have a regular gasket. But some RTV will work too.
@Robert Kuhnke yep, but after disassembly and cleaning I found the head has some cracks in the intake tube coming from the carb. Have no idea why or how that could even happen. But in any case, who knows how long it will last.
@ Jeff's Little Engine Service I've been a subscriber for a longtime. I have a question about decks. I have a Scott's by John Deere 17hp 42in. cut. I had a spindle lock up and wondered how interchangeable are they? I'm having trouble finding the exact part do to it seems like the former owner mixed parts with the 16hp 42in.
Find the model # of the mower and not the engine and google it. You should eventually get a parts breakdown to find the part #
"If you get the cable wet it goes on easier" aka Spit, the universal lube.
yep! lol!
Thanks for the video, i bet this fixes it (again).
Never designed a head gasket before, but curious if the fact that it always blows in the same spot is because it is the NARROWEST part, despite the fact theres room for 30-50% more gasket in that location?
You are correct
Seems crazy that there's plenty off surface between the cylinder and push rods and there's a tiny slither off a gasket between them! Surely if the gasket was wider it would help towards stopping them blowing?
And if they put a bolt or 2 in that space, that would certainly fix the problem. This is very common on the later OHV BS engines
@@mals4400 Exactly the problem ! Nothing there to hold the gasket in place in the most vulnerable area. It's like a ravioli, the edges are pinched together and the middle expands until something gives. LOL
The first Step clean the Engine with a Powerwasher than you can repair the Gasket and the other Part's 🤗👍
It’s counter clock wise on the manual
What a Jack Leg mechanic..
thanks friend
For valve clearance you should note 3 and 5 thousands of a MM not inch.
Hey Jeff. Great video. I just crossed the 50 hour mark and today noticed a puff of white smoke when I throttle down. I have about 10 hours of fall work to do and then can lay the machine up. My question is, when I notice the puff of smoke will I be doing excessive damage if I wait for the repair? I would prefer to take my time as an amateur and do the work this winter
I don't think any damage can occur as long as oil level doesn't get low so you can run it! Always warm up the engine for 1-2 minutes before putting it to work to help prevent head gasket failures
Uh yeah a lot can go wrong if you ignore too long. Actually you can see Jeff's video on lower (crank) gasket repair. Pressure from the head into the crank will blow that gasket too.
@ Jeff's Little Engine Service,Well said,absolutely warm it up couple mins,peeps do not realize the load the mower deck puts on the engine....bit like turning a/c on a 4cyl car engine,you feel the load......
I saw somewhere here on UA-cam, a guy used a 400 grit sandpaper piece to remove and clean the head and the valve cover. I wonder what's the best way to remove all the old remnants of the old gasket? safely for us novice mechanics
it's a tedious job for sure
On an Intek, without fuel pump, with bad head gasket, will that cause excessive pressure to make it leak oil?
Great video. Can you tell me where did you get the manual from? Thank you
You can get manuals on Amazon or Ebay
Im confused as to why you didnt remove the hood at the beginning
Thats a quick and easy process....lift up and push the bottom forward
@@edhoward7420 Yep I took mine off as everyone who has a video was doing. Then I got to looking at it and bolted it back on, then removed it by tilting it correctly! Crazy what we find out on our own even after watching a full blown video on some task. Glad someone else saw this as well.
Exactly what I was thinking!
@@MrCbell57 yah. Unplug the wire to the head lights first.
Just over fill gas everywhere and light match for 🔥 electric short dam mice
Found the head gasket blown. Replaced it but still have a surge problem at lower rpm. The carb rebuild is next.
make sure to clean the pilot passage/jet inside the carb
Jeff not sure what you were expecting to happen when pulling on spark plug wire and not the boot lol also never use a razor blade your just asking for trouble , red 3M pad with brake clean will take everything off with zero chance of hurting surfaces
Good tip I will try that because I hate scraping gasket surfaces.
Good content! Why does nobody use a honing stone, ive seen no Video so far?
Next time help yourself by removing the hood PS I just got a powr karft 18,5 twin I/c Briggs and Stratton 42.inch cut hydro transmission oh by the way you did the right thing and removed the hood 😀 great job with that one 🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
Would have been interesting to know what the compression was before the repair...
I like how the torque wrench clicks and we just keep going 1/2 turn or so.... lol
ya lol ,like guaranteed 50 ft/lbs on some of em . not even sure why a torque wrench was used lol
1:25 that thing needs some serious carburetor work do a video on it jeff
Crank case vent its like a one way valve.
Correct. It is a metal reed valve. You have to remove the flywheel to get to it. If it gets clogged up it can cause the engine as it pumps oil into the carb via the crankcase vent tube.
I was just working on one of these yesterday. The starter seized up and wouldn't turn over at all. I located a used starter for $25 while a new one was $125. Should make my friend happy.
Mine just blew today… but it went into the oil galley and up! Started foaming oil out of the top of the head :(
This mower came with the house I just bough. Replaced the battery.. fresh gas… and two laps around the yard later.. poof haha. Darn it!!
aw dang
Hey jeff I got a question about a deck problem I got a silver craftsman lt2000 that after i engage the blades I can’t get it 2 disengage I pulled the deck off the mower and I sprayed some carb cleaner 2 luve up all the pullies and it still ain’t disengagin so i wonderin if u could give me some tips on it
check that the actuator pulley return spring is still connected and not broken.
Thanks I found the spring it was broken so im gonna get a new spring or try 2 weld this 1 together
@@thebackwoodsboysgarage9144 Weld a spring back together !! LMAO Thanks, I needed that.
Could set TDC while head was off for ease?
I suppose you could
Cylinder leak test would show it real quick. Buy some spark plug boot pliers.
True but the testers are expensive and most DIYers don't have one. The head is so easy to remove on these little one cylinder engines that it's almost not worth the trouble to do a leak test as 95% of the time it's the head gasket. :-)
@@eosjoe565 I guess if you're a DIYer, but if your charging money, best to make sure before tearing into it.
@@Travis141123 For sure
Yep and so many people don’t do it. But this video is for none mechanic type diy folks at home with limited tools and knowledge
I never use goop on the valve cover. I make a gasket with a cereal box. Much easier to get off if you have to.Put some grease on the cardboard. I have never had any trouble doing this
Good tip. It it works run it!!!!
The manual says if there is a gasket replace with a gasket. If there is silicon sealer, replace with silicon sealer. But you rarely see them with gaskets anymore. I've done engines both ways and the next time it is torn apart the gasket is just as hard to remove as is the silicon sealer.
Apply grease, not silicone. an old trick an old mechanic told me 50 years ago ,I never put gasket sealer on any gasket. Only grease I have working cars and mowers for over 60 years and have never owned a tube of gasket sealer.
Does that intek engine not got a top piece that covers the air filter
It does. This one was missing and a new cover is $45.00-$60.00
That is expensive I got a craftsman lt2000 that got a intek engine that has a different air filter im havin problems with the deck not disengagin on it
What ever you do don't take the hood off....lol..
If it's a Vtwin how do you determine which head is blown, without removing both?
there will most likely be more oil on the spark plug of the bad cylinder.
Between the push rods and the Piston the gasket did not look like it made contact with the block in the right spot
Good comment and good eye! I rewatched it and it does look like the new gasket should be wider where you are describing. However, I looked at the original gasket I took off earlier in the video and luckily it was shaped the same
@@JeffsLittleEngineService that might be why there prone to failure with a factory defect in the gasket making die machine
@@JeffsLittleEngineService I was surprised the deer did not have the quick release hood
yeah me too. If it did, I couldn't figure it out!
Do I have to change fuel pump after all the oil went through it? , Blown head gasket and in ,middle of disassembly.
only if it doesn't work