I also purge my 30l vessel with the dry hop in it, you are finally starting to brew like me. I grow Pacifica, daughter of Jade. Everything do is purged, done under pressure, final carbonation is at 12 psi at 4 degrees, all brew CO2. I use a blow pet bottle after my fermenter to collect yeast, so nothing is ever open to atmosphere except for the transfer when the carb cap comes off and the transfer hose goes into the top port of the fermenter, it's a push fit so displaced air can come out as the wort enters the pressurefermenter. This prevents ( and the yeast doesn't get into the keg, verdant can be crazy) contamination. All kegs and spare fermenters are purged, free brewhouse CO2, as fermentation is nearly finished I crank to 18psi. Using the slow chill, 3 degrees down every 12 hours, the brew ends up at 12 psi at 4 degrees
On the note of hop aroma/flavor, something I've been playing around with lately is temperature of the beer when adding a dry hop addition. I've heard that it's best to add dry hop additions at a cooler temp to avoid hop creep, but ever since making that change I've noticed my beers have less hop flavor and aroma. I tested a dry hop at 55F and a dry hop at room temp. The room temp dry hopped beer had significantly more hop aroma and flavor. Maybe something you'd like to officially test here sometime? I'm guessing the 55F dry hopped beer was cool enough that the hops dropped out of solution too quickly, whereas the room temp dry hopped beer allowed the hops more time to provide their wonderful flavors and aromas. All that to say, great video as always.
If you hook up the purge line (to the statsan-filled keg) before the headspace of your fermentation vessel is purged, you will push the (oxygenfilled) air into the keg. Better to wait until fermentation is well on its way, so the air has been purged out.
They say that genius is an infinite capacity for taking pains, this is very true of brewing! I've found that many small additions to process will create dramatically improved beer
Interesting as always, I’ve just started using a hop bong I sanitise it with starsan before putting the hops in and they stick to the side, how do you combat that yourself ? looked like a smooth dry hop I rattle and shake and it’s worse when I add the c02 to flush out oxygen the hop bits stick to the side of the hop bong. Great vid as always cheers 👍🍻
Just one recommendation for an even better closed dry hop setup : Use a butterfly valve that can rotate 180° vs the 90° one used. This allows for a back and forth giggle to get the hops to drop. Cheers!
I wish you sent that beer in to find out the actual IBU. I go back and forth on using hop spiders and whirlpool. It would be nice to see if Steve’s whirlpool method works. Maybe make two exact beers one with hop spider one without and get both tested. Anyways great video as always. Keep it up.
You should test whether a longer boil creates a noticeable Maillard reaction. Split two porter or stout recipes after the mash, boil one for an extra hour our hour and a half before adding hops for another hour/90 minute boil.
I wanna know if there's a difference in the utilization of hops between a hop spider and if you instead used the mash basket to keep the hops out of the fermenter? Would that negate the "advantage" of no hop spider vs the mash basket? I know that the mash basket messes with my boil - it restrains it. Thoughts? Really enjoy these kinds of comparisons. Cheers!
I also purge my 30l vessel with the dry hop in it, you are finally starting to brew like me. I grow Pacifica, daughter of Jade. Everything do is purged, done under pressure, final carbonation is at 12 psi at 4 degrees, all brew CO2. I use a blow pet bottle after my fermenter to collect yeast, so nothing is ever open to atmosphere except for the transfer when the carb cap comes off and the transfer hose goes into the top port of the fermenter, it's a push fit so displaced air can come out as the wort enters the pressurefermenter. This prevents ( and the yeast doesn't get into the keg, verdant can be crazy) contamination. All kegs and spare fermenters are purged, free brewhouse CO2, as fermentation is nearly finished I crank to 18psi. Using the slow chill, 3 degrees down every 12 hours, the brew ends up at 12 psi at 4 degrees
My favorite hop variety, I once made a SMaSH with it and Maris Otter and Lutra kveik, I called it Pacific Otter lol, but it was an *excellent* beer
Phenomenal content. Informative and entertaining. Absolutely love these videos!
On the note of hop aroma/flavor, something I've been playing around with lately is temperature of the beer when adding a dry hop addition. I've heard that it's best to add dry hop additions at a cooler temp to avoid hop creep, but ever since making that change I've noticed my beers have less hop flavor and aroma. I tested a dry hop at 55F and a dry hop at room temp. The room temp dry hopped beer had significantly more hop aroma and flavor.
Maybe something you'd like to officially test here sometime?
I'm guessing the 55F dry hopped beer was cool enough that the hops dropped out of solution too quickly, whereas the room temp dry hopped beer allowed the hops more time to provide their wonderful flavors and aromas.
All that to say, great video as always.
If you hook up the purge line (to the statsan-filled keg) before the headspace of your fermentation vessel is purged, you will push the (oxygenfilled) air into the keg. Better to wait until fermentation is well on its way, so the air has been purged out.
They say that genius is an infinite capacity for taking pains, this is very true of brewing! I've found that many small additions to process will create dramatically improved beer
Interesting as always, I’ve just started using a hop bong I sanitise it with starsan before putting the hops in and they stick to the side, how do you combat that yourself ? looked like a smooth dry hop I rattle and shake and it’s worse when I add the c02 to flush out oxygen the hop bits stick to the side of the hop bong. Great vid as always cheers 👍🍻
Just one recommendation for an even better closed dry hop setup :
Use a butterfly valve that can rotate 180° vs the 90° one used. This allows for a back and forth giggle to get the hops to drop.
Cheers!
Great & informative video as always. Would be great if you could give the OG & FG that you are expecting
I wish you sent that beer in to find out the actual IBU. I go back and forth on using hop spiders and whirlpool. It would be nice to see if Steve’s whirlpool method works. Maybe make two exact beers one with hop spider one without and get both tested. Anyways great video as always. Keep it up.
Sounds like a fantastic hip variety to try!
Nice video! Do me a favor please, add metric data to you vids too for us who are not measuring distance with pickup-lengths, and water with cups. :)
USA USA USA USA 🇺🇸
What? you mean this video isn't exclusively in America even though it's sponsored by an Australian company?
Our "german" scientists converted to Imperial and got us to the 🌙
You should test whether a longer boil creates a noticeable Maillard reaction. Split two porter or stout recipes after the mash, boil one for an extra hour our hour and a half before adding hops for another hour/90 minute boil.
With the Saaz pedigree, would love to see it in a lager. Great vid, bro.
I wanna know if there's a difference in the utilization of hops between a hop spider and if you instead used the mash basket to keep the hops out of the fermenter? Would that negate the "advantage" of no hop spider vs the mash basket? I know that the mash basket messes with my boil - it restrains it. Thoughts? Really enjoy these kinds of comparisons. Cheers!
I use Pacific Jade as my go to Bittering hop, it's a beautiful neutral bittering hop IMO.
Well a bit biased as a Kiwi but awesome vid. This has been my only bittering choice for some time but I will definitely be trying this.
Pacjade is pretty good in a German style pilsner👍
TIL about gradual cold-crashing for better head retention...
I've been finding much better results using the hop freshness calculator on brewfather, then adjusting my AA numbers in a recipe to match.
I find I get significantly more hop flavour from a 30 minute whirlpool at 75°C compared to a 2 minute, or even 0 minute, addition.
With 168 grams of hops is it really a pale ale, or is it a India pale ale ?
At 7:22 it sounds like you are talking inside a space suit.
I just designed a rice lager using these last night. Weird.
Did a Pacific (jade) lite lager for this summer, (40% adjuncts). It’s yummy. Blows any US (commercial) lite lager out of the water.
@@pettermandt9200 what hop schedule? Im currently only using about half an ounce. 0.25 at 30 and 0.25 at flameout.
@@graysheep189 5g (ca 1/5 oz, 5 IBU) @ 30min, 40g (ca 1.4 oz, 10 IBU) @ 5min
I stir my hops in the spider. Do you?
His tonge is the problem, its not in the right spot at times.