Experienced this problem.....not sure what caused it...but this video was helpful..comes on after a light tap...so will definitely drop by my technician to sort this out....thanks...
I know your video is kind of old but I do want to throw my two cents I have 4 Furman power conditioner, and they all work perfectly and it improves the picture quality and the sound is just so nice so maybe you have gotten a bad one but if a storm or lightning strike or something cause that one to fail while it did his job so it’s time to replace it or get that repaired Also, try to get the extra warranty protection on your equipment. It’s a better investment than you trying to open up the power conditioner and trying to fix it. It’s crazy.
What’s actually crazy is how people now days don’t open anything up, and don’t have desire to learn how something might work and / or can be fixed by themselves. And as I’ve proven, I have saved over $600 Australian in buying a new item simply by sourcing a $2 component and saved a lot of landfill too… And if anything else was damaged during the power outage then the unit would be either drastically playing up or not working at all. To which I can report that it’s still operating like it was the day I bought it .. These conditioners will typically only provide a noticeable and quantifiable improvement if you’re mains power is “dirty”… otherwise it more of a handy way to distribute electricity around my studio and ensure the electricity is clean and won’t harm sensitive electronics long term…t
@@josephdignam123 I agree it is OK to open up an item to see how things work and if you can fix it I was wrong by saying that that’s crazy I do notice the improvement in my surroundsound system. The video quality of my display have greatly improved, so it depends on what you are connecting your entertainment stuff to as well. A cheap conditioner may not in most cases, provide any kind of noticeable improvement.
@@alambe7275 well from what I’ve been told by people with far more qualifications than me, is Furman across the board are very over priced now days for the quality received and a far cry from their reputation in the 80s for example . So it sounds like you do have dirty line power so I suspect any form of conditioner would give you a performance increase
I cannot remember the exact rating of the capacitor but it was close into the original. I couldn’t find an exact match at my local electrical component stores. The point is, you don’t have to get the specs exact the same which is why I didn’t think I needed to mention the cap rating I used
Dude I'm a little confused after watching this vid. Is the cap that you pushed / bent a little with your finger the only component that you replaced? You actually never said what you replaced, if you tack soldered it or de-soldered / resoldered completely or what the value was of the new vs old capacitor...... C'mon man!
“C’mon Man!” Indeed! If you scroll to the 1:30 mark, you will see it’s the capacitor I’m talking about and my finger points to it, and then touches… The value should be the same as what comes out or as close as you can. Near enough has been good enough in this case - I’m sure an electrical engineer will have a good argument against this. In this case, what I used was a Suntan 2J224K which if you pause the video at around 1:41 is easy to see. If by tack soldering you mean I didn’t have to remove and flip the circuit board then yes it only needed to be tack soldered and took literally 45 seconds.
And yes, as I described, the cap was the only component that I needed to replace. I would have mentioned other components if I replace other components ;) This doesn’t mean I don’t have any damage to other components, and doesn’t mean you won’t but it’s the first item I tested and found a problem with, then changed it, and everything was fixed so I didn’t go any further with testing. Power conditioner has been operating perfectly ever since.
@@josephdignam123 You said "I quickly BANGED THAT IN". This is international platform and not all ppl around the world understand SLANG English this is where the confusion comes from.
The entire video talks about that one capacitor. That’s it, The camera focuses in on it too. If you REALLY cannot use my video and cross reference your own unit then I can’t help you any more. And don’t take one single reference I made (one of many) as if it was the only reference I made about the capacitor. Watch the video again and rather than complaining :)
Experienced this problem.....not sure what caused it...but this video was helpful..comes on after a light tap...so will definitely drop by my technician to sort this out....thanks...
I hope it helps to find the problem!
Yess. Fixed mine. Thankyou.
Awesome!!!
also replace the blue capacitors in shrink tubing. Those usually blow when it takes a surge.
Thanks mate. Hopefully that won’t happen.
I don’t even know how it could have taken a surge as it’s always switched off at the wall
I know your video is kind of old but I do want to throw my two cents I have 4 Furman power conditioner, and they all work perfectly and it improves the picture quality and the sound is just so nice so maybe you have gotten a bad one but if a storm or lightning strike or something cause that one to fail while it did his job so it’s time to replace it or get that repaired
Also, try to get the extra warranty protection on your equipment. It’s a better investment than you trying to open up the power conditioner and trying to fix it. It’s crazy.
What’s actually crazy is how people now days don’t open anything up, and don’t have desire to learn how something might work and / or can be fixed by themselves.
And as I’ve proven, I have saved over $600 Australian in buying a new item simply by sourcing a $2 component and saved a lot of landfill too…
And if anything else was damaged during the power outage then the unit would be either drastically playing up or not working at all. To which I can report that it’s still operating like it was the day I bought it ..
These conditioners will typically only provide a noticeable and quantifiable improvement if you’re mains power is “dirty”… otherwise it more of a handy way to distribute electricity around my studio and ensure the electricity is clean and won’t harm sensitive electronics long term…t
@@josephdignam123 I agree it is OK to open up an item to see how things work and if you can fix it I was wrong by saying that that’s crazy
I do notice the improvement in my surroundsound system. The video quality of my display have greatly improved, so it depends on what you are connecting your entertainment stuff to as well. A cheap conditioner may not in most cases, provide any kind of noticeable improvement.
@@alambe7275 well from what I’ve been told by people with far more qualifications than me, is Furman across the board are very over priced now days for the quality received and a far cry from their reputation in the 80s for example .
So it sounds like you do have dirty line power so I suspect any form of conditioner would give you a performance increase
@@josephdignam123 hey it’s all good if you find something that works go for it
I got the same problem, do u know how to fix it?
I thought the video explained the fix?
@@josephdignam123 lmao....🤣🤣🤣🤦🏽♂️
@@josephdignam123 What is this "good enough option" that solve your problem because I didn't understand as well after watching 4times.
I cannot remember the exact rating of the capacitor but it was close into the original.
I couldn’t find an exact match at my local electrical component stores.
The point is, you don’t have to get the specs exact the same which is why I didn’t think I needed to mention the cap rating I used
@@josephdignam123 So basically you have change the capacitor and the problem was solved?
Dude I'm a little confused after watching this vid. Is the cap that you pushed / bent a little with your finger the only component that you replaced? You actually never said what you replaced, if you tack soldered it or de-soldered / resoldered completely or what the value was of the new vs old capacitor...... C'mon man!
“C’mon Man!” Indeed!
If you scroll to the 1:30 mark, you will see it’s the capacitor I’m talking about and my finger points to it, and then touches…
The value should be the same as what comes out or as close as you can. Near enough has been good enough in this case - I’m sure an electrical engineer will have a good argument against this.
In this case, what I used was a Suntan 2J224K which if you pause the video at around 1:41 is easy to see.
If by tack soldering you mean I didn’t have to remove and flip the circuit board then yes it only needed to be tack soldered and took literally 45 seconds.
And yes, as I described, the cap was the only component that I needed to replace. I would have mentioned other components if I replace other components ;)
This doesn’t mean I don’t have any damage to other components, and doesn’t mean you won’t but it’s the first item I tested and found a problem with, then changed it, and everything was fixed so I didn’t go any further with testing.
Power conditioner has been operating perfectly ever since.
@@josephdignam123 You said "I quickly BANGED THAT IN". This is international platform and not all ppl around the world understand SLANG English this is where the confusion comes from.
The entire video talks about that one capacitor. That’s it, The camera focuses in on it too. If you REALLY cannot use my video and cross reference your own unit then I can’t help you any more.
And don’t take one single reference I made (one of many) as if it was the only reference I made about the capacitor.
Watch the video again and rather than complaining :)
For what it's worth, I had the same question and was unsure about the same thing... thanks for the further explanation, I get it now.