Let me know if you end up making your own or invent your own modifications! A few months ago I had a disaster of a live-stream where an XBox HDMI port just didn't want to play ball on my terms. I decided to do what I could to remove myself from the equation by doing what I do best (for me) and inventing a tool Initially I created an adaptor-on-adaptor modification for my Atten ST-862D hot-air station to use a 20mm copper pipe elbow nozzle, and it did work quite well but I still wanted to improve on this original "Hotair Bidet" design, and in this video I show you what I finally came up with to make my tech workshop life so much better that I'm now actually quite eager to get these sorts of jobs instead of shying away from them. #hotair #playstation #xbox #righttorepair 00:00 Introduction - soul dread jobs 00:45 Explaning the thinking behind the mod 02:28 Dawning of being an idiot 03:40 The 2nd part of removing myself from the equation 04:33 The first victim logic board for HDMI port removal 05:37 Start the clock! 06:50 Examining our perfect port removal 07:50 Summary This is the Lab-jack/lift that I'm using; www.vevor.com.au/lab-jack-c_11069/aluminum-oxide-lab-stand-scissor-lift-lifting-platform-laboratory-jack-table-8--p_010594813228 (not the biggest fan of Vevor but in this case it worked out) For Quick 861DW users, I have just checked that the 22mm (7/8") elbows will likely need the *exterior* wall to be thinned down in order to insert in to the head; doesn't look like it'll need much but the default thickness of these copper elbows seems to be a tad too thick; the pipe ID is fine but the OD is a bit too much to fit in to the Quick collar
I will try this method. I usually use big lumps of blu-tac to hold the board in place . With this I can have both hands free to hold the port in place with two pairs of tweezers. Brilliant if you get a wobbly hand sometimes.
Great, after seeing this video, companies will tell their engineers "don't make any dimensions on this stuff standard so people cant' use off the shelf plumping fittings or clamps with it - they will have to buy OUR accessories at inflated prices"
That sir is bloody ingenius. Thank you also for showing us the lab lift! I work as a service technician repairing calibrating and assembling flue gas analysers and emissions testers, and i am in desperate need of a lab lift!
Bloody genius Paul. This one of those _"Why didn't I think of that"_ moments. Well I wouldn't as I have only just got a cheapie 8582D generic unit and now your idea will allow me to try and replace broken connectors. *Thank you* for sharing! 👍👍👍👍👍
Well as you saw in the video, even I had such a moment after messing around with all the earlier attempts. Sometimes it feels like it ended up just *too* simple but I like it and it makes it very quick & easy to end up using the one tool for a couple of purposes. I will say though, for things like the XBox Series X, I might still end up having to break out the other hot-air station to assist from above, that mainboard is a thermal MONSTER! Good luck with the repair of your generic unit. Does it have a 25mm/1" endpiece as well?
I recently upgraded from a cheapo 858D to the same atten station Paul has. I emailed atten and asked what're official suppliers in the US and found one selling the station for around 150 usd. Well worth it. I have changed a HDMI on a series S with the 858D, but I tinned it all with low melt prior.
Hope it works out well for you. Right now I'm still collating a feel for the lowest temp/air for each sort of job ( easy to overdo the settings if required :p )
Just a thought…. I used the Atten stand that came with mine. It has a stand off on the base plate that accepts the hand tool horizontally but is not sufficient to stop it slipping out of place. I attached two upwards facing rubber feet either side of centre to the front lip of the holder to keep the hand piece from sliding perpendicularly.
Idk about $5 but I use a portable butane stove to extract dense boards which makes it pretty cheap! Used one of those camping cooktop metal wire/mesh to focus the heat similar to your pipe. The largest component I did was getting out RSX chip from a PS3 board.
a wooden board, two screws & a clamp. IT'S MADNESS. He's gone insane ! Soon he'll take over the world ! We're so lucky he hasn't discovered a wooden board with a nail through it yet. 😀
@@pldaniels "That board with a nail in it may have defeated us, but the humans won't stop there. They'll make bigger boards and bigger nails, and soon, they will make a board with a nail so big, it will destroy them all!" -Kang
Hope so, will be good to see other people trying it ... maybe even the hot-air mfg'ers will create a proper dedicated nozzle ( so long as they don't do something stupid like 2 x 45-degree straight joins )
@@pldaniels Well, as you have shown, the pipes are already there. I have the Quick 861DW and the nozzles there are inserts with 23mm outside and 22mm inside diameter (aproximately) Edit: I just checked, the 22mm diameters are available, but I have to check the wall thickness
@@marcellipovsky8222 interesting that the quick is 22mm OD, though yes, at least you can get 22mm ID piping ( often sold as 7/8" ) and most aren't more than 1mm thick
@@marcellipovsky8222 Have to mention the imperial numbers to avoid alienating certain places on the planet. I've got my old Quick in the shed collecting dust, and I've got that 22mm elbow... I'll go check now.
Nice tip Paul. It will be nice to have a free hand to work with instead of having to hold the hot air in place. Keep up the great work. Cheers to the weekend!
Absolutely. Was always a frustrating process not having a hand spare and all the wobbling around the place. Hopefully you can conjure up a variation that works out on your workbench. I like that I can enable this within a minute because it's just the board + tip + lab jack
I enjoy having the free hand, the overhead view with the microscope and the ability to fully support the board at its center of mass rather than by the edge.
@@pldaniels Definitely would be beneficial, as you said would be very comfortable. I have just got used using on edge of table and using the microscope camera view on monitor screen. Sometimes using with Hakko C1390C omnivise to hold board.
For Quick 861DW users, I have just checked that the 22mm (7/8") elbows will likely need the wall to be thinned down in order to insert in to the head; doesn't look like it'll need much but the default thickness of these copper elbows seems to be a tad too thick. Not sure how you'd thin the wall down consistently other than a lathe perhaps ?
sandpaper and a dowel - cut a slot in the end of the dowel and put a strip of sandpaper in the slot. Spin the dowel in a drill. The centrifugal force pushing the sandpaper flaps into the wall of the fitting will keep the pressure pretty equal all the way around.
it's easy to enlarge the diameter of a copper pipe, just hammer it a bit on a round bar... copper is a soft metal and if it gets harder just heat it and quench it in water. to shrink the OD just cut it once or twice
@@gabrieln5357 the problem is the thickness of the wall. The ID is fine for the Quick with the 7/8", the issue is that the walls are usually ~1mm for these elbow pieces and they need to be pared down to about 0.7mm to slot through the lock collar. I suppose you could flare it out with the round bar / anvil & hammer as you say and then bring it back together after taking a slot out; though given the softness of copper I'm not sure how well it'll cope with a few load/unload cycles in the lock collar before suffering to fatigue issues ( at least the 300~500'C heat may keep it sufficiently annealed ).
great hack Paul reminds me of a hack I did hooking my heat gun to a drill press jig, up down and side to side adjustment for precise chip removal with both hands free. no microscope of course
I do want to (need to! ) get myself one of those sorts of contraptions as well for some jobs, but yes, lack of microscope can be a little tricky with eyes like this :)
You can build a metal box with an hole and hook up something like you did with those cheap workstations. I could be used pre heating the botton side of pcbs for example
As a long term following of Cody and his frequent near-death-experiments, I'll take that as somewhat of a compliment. I very much enjoyed his original mining mini-series
Absolutely take it as a compliment. Its nice to see someone doing what they enjoy. I will definitely be replicating the jig you've set up here next time i need to break out my hot air gun by the way. Very nice.
It's definitely a cheaper alternative to the Hakko FR-830 but I find the bidet + lab jack provides quite a bit more versatility for the smaller removals and a bit more stability when dealing with edge connectors on larger boards due to the heater nozzle being physically separate from the supporting platform. Still will probably look at adding a 853B to the rest of my collection of preheaters for the sake of those jobs where it really suits.
Excellent and innovative! Just wondering would it work, if the board was upside down. Then place something under the board of the hot air gun (i.e a brick) to bring it level with the motherboard .Then rotating the hot air gun to point nozzle downwards. Let gravity drop the connector out? next evolution is putting it on a camera dolly and automating the removal of multiple connectors 😆
For removals, gravity can sometimes be a help for sure; for putting connectors back on obviously the "upright" orientation is going to be easier ( unless you live in Australia/NZ/ZA )
Just for you, here's the bunnings entry - www.bunnings.com.au/brasshards-25mm-90-degrees-copper-capillary-elbow_p0252165 ( a lot more expensive than what I paid at my local hardware store, though slightly different in some ways, maybe thicker ).
@@jmicari they should all have a 25mm/1" ID so in theory should work, just a case of carving more out with the deburring tool otherwise ;) Clearly I didn't get mine from Bunnings, though even at that price it's cheap enough.
Might have to try one... ermmm... but then I'd have to find a way to hold the board firm, but it'd be a possibly nicer way of dealing with the CPUs. Maybe time to break out the CNC milling machine
@@pldaniels I put the board in a very small holder, put that big nozzle on the hot air gun and use 365/65 air with the same hot air station as yours. Should come right off in about 30 seconds. The downside is that I can’t do that under the microscope as the nozzle is straight and air needs to come from above, not sideways at all. I will try with that 90deg copper fitting as it will probably fit under the microscope
I am very sorry for my comment. Please accept my apology , i am ambidextrous, and the mod would not have been that much for me it would have just cluttered my place. Anyway, i have no problems taking any ports off. i have low melt solder, and i buy it from China for £5 chin i can send you the link if you like, i just use the solder iron sometimes , i wish i could show you. Can i be your friend . I like your incentive bro.
What's the betting firms like Atten and Yihua are selling these kits on their website, for 20-30 bucks, by the end of the year🤣🤣 Anyway I can't stop cos I'm off to B and Q for a hose clamp and a 90 degree bend👋👋 Thanks Paul👍👍
Not really required and creates more work in the cleanup phase and often what takes longest are the internal pins on things like dual-row USB-C connectors. In many situations you can often remove the broken connector and drop in the new one with a dab of flux using the existing solder and it all "goes to plan". Worst case scenario you can do a rework with leaded 63/37 or similar which of course is already a decent temperature drop compared to the usual lead-free.
many people like to "add solder" , how anout adding so low melting aloys ment for celphone/bga soldering id comes as a paste with it's own flux as a bonus
I'll add standard 63/37 on some joins now and then if I feel it needs help, however most of the time I avoid the low-melt options due to the bismuth content and you really have to clean those up well after using them; ends up being more work and most of the time the time-on-heat isn't significantly reduced particularly if the connector has internal pins anyhow.
@@pldaniels So funny you say that! I always think of hardcore electronic lads as doctors working on a patient, you don't feel so bad though if a patient dies as long as you keep the brain lol!
Good thing it's about 50mm away and of course I do also have the glass & metal barlow, but yes, don't get too close if you don't have a protective lens
Because the board is quite close to the hot-air outlet, and because the airlet is the full 1" diameter, and because it's at only 40~50% output, it really isn't something you feel even if you're directly above it beyond 10cm or so. Additionally the microscope itself offsets your head by about 15cm away from the workpiece.
That was from another job in a land far away. I was removing a 20-way 0.5mm pitch connector to replace a BDROM connector in a PS5 -- good spotting though ( the connected I wanted was on the other side, I was happy to sacrafice the kbd connector )
The nice thing about different tools is you can always choose which one you feel suits the task best for you. I've a pair of heatplates and a large preheater station, but for these edge connectors on larger PCBs this setup was the least-troublesome option for me ( and I get to use the microscope )
The trouble with these bismuth based low-temp alloys is that you still need to get them to wick in to every pad/hole and you subsequently have to ensure you clean all remenants of it up before installing the new port ( which will be at high temp anyhow ) to ensure you don't end up with a weak join somewhere. Over the cycle of the process it's less work/damage-risk to simply remove the old, install the new during the single heat ( agreeably I didn't show the install of a new port in this video ). Each to their own I suppose, I'm not personally a fan of the bismuth route though I do use 63/37 leaded pickling of the pads sometimes to help with transfer.
I'm selling the copper elbows and deburring one end, so you all don't have to. They're $40.00 each, plus shipping and tax, or two for $90 plus shipping and tax.
Someone goes through the process of sourcing parts and trying different things so we don't have to and your comment is "useless mod". How about you say something like "Thanks for doing the graft so I don't have to but this ain't for me because I've spent 250 on a big preheater and 500 on other board heating equipment."🤐🤐
Nice!, i have been using the heatgun with no attachment and lifting off the HDMI Port, on PS4/PS5/Xbox;s after seeing @TheCod3r doing this method But i do like the ability of NO-HANDS! , will certainly be looking in to doing this looks like a good evolution of the method
Let me know if you end up making your own or invent your own modifications!
A few months ago I had a disaster of a live-stream where an XBox HDMI port just didn't want to play ball on my terms. I decided to do what I could to remove myself from the equation by doing what I do best (for me) and inventing a tool
Initially I created an adaptor-on-adaptor modification for my Atten ST-862D hot-air station to use a 20mm copper pipe elbow nozzle, and it did work quite well but I still wanted to improve on this original "Hotair Bidet" design, and in this video I show you what I finally came up with to make my tech workshop life so much better that I'm now actually quite eager to get these sorts of jobs instead of shying away from them.
#hotair #playstation #xbox #righttorepair
00:00 Introduction - soul dread jobs
00:45 Explaning the thinking behind the mod
02:28 Dawning of being an idiot
03:40 The 2nd part of removing myself from the equation
04:33 The first victim logic board for HDMI port removal
05:37 Start the clock!
06:50 Examining our perfect port removal
07:50 Summary
This is the Lab-jack/lift that I'm using; www.vevor.com.au/lab-jack-c_11069/aluminum-oxide-lab-stand-scissor-lift-lifting-platform-laboratory-jack-table-8--p_010594813228 (not the biggest fan of Vevor but in this case it worked out)
For Quick 861DW users, I have just checked that the 22mm (7/8") elbows will likely need the *exterior* wall to be thinned down in order to insert in to the head; doesn't look like it'll need much but the default thickness of these copper elbows seems to be a tad too thick; the pipe ID is fine but the OD is a bit too much to fit in to the Quick collar
I'm on it... Back from vacation now, starting to build... 😊
@@psteier was wondering where you had been.
I will try this method.
I usually use big lumps of blu-tac to hold the board in place . With this I can have both hands free to hold the port in place with two pairs of tweezers. Brilliant if you get a wobbly hand sometimes.
Another high quality tool from the engineering team of PLD and Cats Inc.
The PLD Hot Air Bidet.
ROFL!!
Great, after seeing this video, companies will tell their engineers "don't make any dimensions on this stuff standard so people cant' use off the shelf plumping fittings or clamps with it - they will have to buy OUR accessories at inflated prices"
Certainly a common thread through the ages; things like polarlity swapped DC Jacks, odd voltages, and truly obscure connectors.
Paul Daniels, amazing content keep up the fantastic work
Thank you.
That sir is bloody ingenius.
Thank you also for showing us the lab lift! I work as a service technician repairing calibrating and assembling flue gas analysers and emissions testers, and i am in desperate need of a lab lift!
Subbed, because that’s a great idea, but also as I’m subscribining to every Aussie UA-camr 😊 the algorithm finds for me.
Bloody genius Paul. This one of those _"Why didn't I think of that"_ moments. Well I wouldn't as I have only just got a cheapie 8582D generic unit and now your idea will allow me to try and replace broken connectors.
*Thank you* for sharing! 👍👍👍👍👍
Well as you saw in the video, even I had such a moment after messing around with all the earlier attempts. Sometimes it feels like it ended up just *too* simple but I like it and it makes it very quick & easy to end up using the one tool for a couple of purposes.
I will say though, for things like the XBox Series X, I might still end up having to break out the other hot-air station to assist from above, that mainboard is a thermal MONSTER!
Good luck with the repair of your generic unit. Does it have a 25mm/1" endpiece as well?
@@pldanielsfor that I would think of a single hotair gun with a Y brass fitting
I recently upgraded from a cheapo 858D to the same atten station Paul has. I emailed atten and asked what're official suppliers in the US and found one selling the station for around 150 usd. Well worth it. I have changed a HDMI on a series S with the 858D, but I tinned it all with low melt prior.
Now thats a man who thinks out of the box, that is bloody brilliant Paul
Thanks. I looked at the various other options from Metcal, Hakko (FR830) etc and figured there's wasn't much to lose trying something else.
That's brilliant. I have the same hot air station so I'll definitely be making this setup! Thanks!
Hope it works out well for you. Right now I'm still collating a feel for the lowest temp/air for each sort of job ( easy to overdo the settings if required :p )
Just a thought…. I used the Atten stand that came with mine. It has a stand off on the base plate that accepts the hand tool horizontally but is not sufficient to stop it slipping out of place. I attached two upwards facing rubber feet either side of centre to the front lip of the holder to keep the hand piece from sliding perpendicularly.
Fantastic as a person just setting up and totally new to This I will prepare one for myself. Thank you Paul
Glad it was potentially helpful, report back perhaps when you have a few runs with it.
Great idea, I'll for sure use this tip xD
Hope it works for you - it was one of those "Oh duh!" epiphany moments for me moving to the 1" version; so much simpler.
Thank you for sharing this great idea!
Best regards from Germany
Sven
Idk about $5 but I use a portable butane stove to extract dense boards which makes it pretty cheap!
Used one of those camping cooktop metal wire/mesh to focus the heat similar to your pipe.
The largest component I did was getting out RSX chip from a PS3 board.
Thanks for sharing your innovation!
My pleasure! Happy to share
Nicely done, Paul!
6:20 if you can pre-load spring to pop-up tha piece of automatically when solder melts :D
I remember they used to sell such things for TQFP removal "back in the day"
a wooden board, two screws & a clamp. IT'S MADNESS. He's gone insane ! Soon he'll take over the world ! We're so lucky he hasn't discovered a wooden board with a nail through it yet. 😀
Simpsons reference detected :)
@@pldaniels "That board with a nail in it may have defeated us, but the humans won't stop there. They'll make bigger boards and bigger nails, and soon, they will make a board with a nail so big, it will destroy them all!" -Kang
Thanks for the tip Paul. This can come handy in the future.
Hope so, will be good to see other people trying it ... maybe even the hot-air mfg'ers will create a proper dedicated nozzle ( so long as they don't do something stupid like 2 x 45-degree straight joins )
@@pldaniels Well, as you have shown, the pipes are already there. I have the Quick 861DW and the nozzles there are inserts with 23mm outside and 22mm inside diameter (aproximately)
Edit: I just checked, the 22mm diameters are available, but I have to check the wall thickness
@@marcellipovsky8222 interesting that the quick is 22mm OD, though yes, at least you can get 22mm ID piping ( often sold as 7/8" ) and most aren't more than 1mm thick
@@pldaniels That should then fit like a glove! Perfect! (I don't do imperial 😁)
@@marcellipovsky8222 Have to mention the imperial numbers to avoid alienating certain places on the planet.
I've got my old Quick in the shed collecting dust, and I've got that 22mm elbow... I'll go check now.
Nice Paul. Always the thinker!!
Always trying - at least this way there's less fumbling.
Nice tip Paul. It will be nice to have a free hand to work with instead of having to hold the hot air in place. Keep up the great work. Cheers to the weekend!
Absolutely. Was always a frustrating process not having a hand spare and all the wobbling around the place. Hopefully you can conjure up a variation that works out on your workbench.
I like that I can enable this within a minute because it's just the board + tip + lab jack
@@pldaniels sonetimes the easy less time consuming resolutions turn out to be the best ones my friend. :)
New fear unlocked: Port falling into soldering bidet 🤣
Or falling *on* it
Now that would be a shit-house outcome for sure 💩
Dr Tool 🤣 Great idea PLD
I'm not rebranding... but I do like the title ;)
Thankyou for sharing. Great idea for those who have difficulties removing.
I enjoy having the free hand, the overhead view with the microscope and the ability to fully support the board at its center of mass rather than by the edge.
@@pldaniels Definitely would be beneficial, as you said would be very comfortable. I have just got used using on edge of table and using the microscope camera view on monitor screen. Sometimes using with Hakko C1390C omnivise to hold board.
@@mm0077 I've seen JoeyDoesTech do that a lot with his omnivice.
Genius!
brilliant engineering Paul.
Thank you; a little sad it took me as long as it did to even think of using the 25mm/1".
Easy, cheap, clean, love it
Hello THoM, been a while, hope you're doing okay there. Yes, it's my kind of mod/fix/solution.
For Quick 861DW users, I have just checked that the 22mm (7/8") elbows will likely need the wall to be thinned down in order to insert in to the head; doesn't look like it'll need much but the default thickness of these copper elbows seems to be a tad too thick.
Not sure how you'd thin the wall down consistently other than a lathe perhaps ?
sandpaper and a dowel - cut a slot in the end of the dowel and put a strip of sandpaper in the slot. Spin the dowel in a drill. The centrifugal force pushing the sandpaper flaps into the wall of the fitting will keep the pressure pretty equal all the way around.
@@gorak9000I think that maybe Paul means that some material has to come off the outside diameter not the internal? Possibly?
@@gorak9000 It's an OD reduction we want, the ID seems fine.
it's easy to enlarge the diameter of a copper pipe, just hammer it a bit on a round bar... copper is a soft metal and if it gets harder just heat it and quench it in water.
to shrink the OD just cut it once or twice
@@gabrieln5357 the problem is the thickness of the wall. The ID is fine for the Quick with the 7/8", the issue is that the walls are usually ~1mm for these elbow pieces and they need to be pared down to about 0.7mm to slot through the lock collar. I suppose you could flare it out with the round bar / anvil & hammer as you say and then bring it back together after taking a slot out; though given the softness of copper I'm not sure how well it'll cope with a few load/unload cycles in the lock collar before suffering to fatigue issues ( at least the 300~500'C heat may keep it sufficiently annealed ).
great hack Paul reminds me of a hack I did hooking my heat gun to a drill press jig, up down and side to side adjustment for precise chip removal with both hands free. no microscope of course
I do want to (need to! ) get myself one of those sorts of contraptions as well for some jobs, but yes, lack of microscope can be a little tricky with eyes like this :)
Good idea thank for sharing 👌
Welcome 😊 always happy to share new ideas that make life a bit easier
"hot air bidet" ... "that will blow lots of lovely, well controlled air into appropriate locations"
- I see what you did there 😂
Warm and subtle.
You are the best! Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome, thank you.
Very neat, I like that a lot!
Thank you very much!
You can build a metal box with an hole and hook up something like you did with those cheap workstations. I could be used pre heating the botton side of pcbs for example
very nice
I've never heard someone who could so closely replicate the intro greeting from Cody's Lab
As a long term following of Cody and his frequent near-death-experiments, I'll take that as somewhat of a compliment. I very much enjoyed his original mining mini-series
Absolutely take it as a compliment. Its nice to see someone doing what they enjoy. I will definitely be replicating the jig you've set up here next time i need to break out my hot air gun by the way. Very nice.
Nice !
Good job and nice clean job to not like me melt the laptop as i did hahah
Seen "lab jack" used more often than "lab lift", but both get the point across.
Correct, I was meaning lab-jack, and I dopped the term and link to one in the description/comments to try get that across too; quite right.
Damn, that looked amazing. Shut up and take my money
I'm sure the local hardware store will be happy to help out taking $5 from you.
There is a tool for that: KADA 853B. These thick boards just need a preheater.
It's definitely a cheaper alternative to the Hakko FR-830 but I find the bidet + lab jack provides quite a bit more versatility for the smaller removals and a bit more stability when dealing with edge connectors on larger boards due to the heater nozzle being physically separate from the supporting platform.
Still will probably look at adding a 853B to the rest of my collection of preheaters for the sake of those jobs where it really suits.
Excellent and innovative! Just wondering would it work, if the board was upside down. Then place something under the board of the hot air gun (i.e a brick) to bring it level with the motherboard .Then rotating the hot air gun to point nozzle downwards. Let gravity drop the connector out? next evolution is putting it on a camera dolly and automating the removal of multiple connectors 😆
For removals, gravity can sometimes be a help for sure; for putting connectors back on obviously the "upright" orientation is going to be easier ( unless you live in Australia/NZ/ZA )
4:17 an adjustable mouse autopsy table ☠💀☠🤣
subbed
❤❤❤wow I make new BGA idea🎉🎉🎉
Awesome. For such jobs, a desoldering gun is faster and less prone to warping the board.
Certainly at least with myself out of the list of significant contributing factors the results are vastly nicer.
Great!!! Thanks.
PERFECT
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Smart!
Hey mate. Where did you get the pipe from? Checked Bunnings online but not seeing the type you have in your video
Just for you, here's the bunnings entry - www.bunnings.com.au/brasshards-25mm-90-degrees-copper-capillary-elbow_p0252165 ( a lot more expensive than what I paid at my local hardware store, though slightly different in some ways, maybe thicker ).
Look for part *I/N: 0252165* on their website. It's $8.05 for this one so I guess that's the _r-soles_ standard inflated rip off price.
@@josephking6515 thanks for that. Saw it but was not sure if it would work
@@jmicari they should all have a 25mm/1" ID so in theory should work, just a case of carving more out with the deburring tool otherwise ;)
Clearly I didn't get mine from Bunnings, though even at that price it's cheap enough.
That Atten adapter is perfect for A13 - A16 cpu removal 😊
Might have to try one... ermmm... but then I'd have to find a way to hold the board firm, but it'd be a possibly nicer way of dealing with the CPUs. Maybe time to break out the CNC milling machine
@@pldaniels I put the board in a very small holder, put that big nozzle on the hot air gun and use 365/65 air with the same hot air station as yours. Should come right off in about 30 seconds. The downside is that I can’t do that under the microscope as the nozzle is straight and air needs to come from above, not sideways at all. I will try with that 90deg copper fitting as it will probably fit under the microscope
@@mirceaalicu that underfilled for the A13-16 or have they gone with open CPU/RAM assembly now?
@@pldaniels nah, they all have underfill but it is not as bad as it was in the old ones
@@mirceaalicu good to know - I might have to sacrafice some for the sake of exploring things.
I am very sorry for my comment. Please accept my apology , i am ambidextrous, and the mod would not have been that much for me it would have just cluttered my place. Anyway, i have no problems taking any ports off. i have low melt solder, and i buy it from China for £5 chin i can send you the link if you like, i just use the solder iron sometimes , i wish i could show you. Can i be your friend . I like your incentive bro.
What's the betting firms like Atten and Yihua are selling these kits on their website, for 20-30 bucks, by the end of the year🤣🤣 Anyway I can't stop cos I'm off to B and Q for a hose clamp and a 90 degree bend👋👋 Thanks Paul👍👍
I’ll be expecting it
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Great idea Mr Daniels, do i turn it 180 degs as I'm in the Northern hemisphere 😅
Yes, absolutely, and be sure it's drawing air in rather than blowing it out ... flush a toilet the right way too when you start, just to be sure ;)
Great solution. Wouldn’t it help to mix in some low melt solder first?
Not really required and creates more work in the cleanup phase and often what takes longest are the internal pins on things like dual-row USB-C connectors. In many situations you can often remove the broken connector and drop in the new one with a dab of flux using the existing solder and it all "goes to plan". Worst case scenario you can do a rework with leaded 63/37 or similar which of course is already a decent temperature drop compared to the usual lead-free.
brb, going to Bunnings
Pick up $500 of other unrelated gear while you're there ... and a sausage. Shame the bunnings ones are $8 considering the local mob here charge $3.50
@@pldaniels I had a quick look at Reece and their prices are $8 too 🥵 this seems like going over 90mm for PVC where the prices skyrocket 🤣
@@TorchHacker usually the way. Did you find some pipe holder / clamps ? I'm not even sure where I got mine from.
@@pldaniels I'll take a look. I've got some Irwin clamp things
Im doing this mod as soon as my atten comes....
Time to order a lab-jack too ?
@@pldaniels Heheheh nah no lab jack for me im just gona use a Bible or something to hold the board... I think its about that height.
easy pease mate ! 😀
many people like to "add solder" , how anout adding so low melting aloys ment for celphone/bga soldering
id comes as a paste with it's own flux as a bonus
I'll add standard 63/37 on some joins now and then if I feel it needs help, however most of the time I avoid the low-melt options due to the bismuth content and you really have to clean those up well after using them; ends up being more work and most of the time the time-on-heat isn't significantly reduced particularly if the connector has internal pins anyhow.
Plumbing with Paul or Paul's Plumbing? You're a full blown tradie now lol!
Got to skill up in all possible trades. Neurosurgery next?
@@pldaniels So funny you say that! I always think of hardcore electronic lads as doctors working on a patient, you don't feel so bad though if a patient dies as long as you keep the brain lol!
Beware not to melt your microscope
Good thing it's about 50mm away and of course I do also have the glass & metal barlow, but yes, don't get too close if you don't have a protective lens
do you have link to an equivalent fitting in the us?
Almost any hardware or plumbing store will have them.. 1" internal-diameter 90 degree elbow copper pipe fitting.
@@pldaniels i found it! thanks!
Hi how do you protect eyes and face ??
Because the board is quite close to the hot-air outlet, and because the airlet is the full 1" diameter, and because it's at only 40~50% output, it really isn't something you feel even if you're directly above it beyond 10cm or so. Additionally the microscope itself offsets your head by about 15cm away from the workpiece.
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You burned that keyboard connector... LOL
everyone's a critic
That was from another job in a land far away. I was removing a 20-way 0.5mm pitch connector to replace a BDROM connector in a PS5 -- good spotting though ( the connected I wanted was on the other side, I was happy to sacrafice the kbd connector )
@@pldaniels Thats nice... all good.
Thank you but it is easier just to put it on my heatplate
The nice thing about different tools is you can always choose which one you feel suits the task best for you. I've a pair of heatplates and a large preheater station, but for these edge connectors on larger PCBs this setup was the least-troublesome option for me ( and I get to use the microscope )
I like…I buy…
At least the hardware stores will be selling copper elbows
or just use Rose's metal
The trouble with these bismuth based low-temp alloys is that you still need to get them to wick in to every pad/hole and you subsequently have to ensure you clean all remenants of it up before installing the new port ( which will be at high temp anyhow ) to ensure you don't end up with a weak join somewhere.
Over the cycle of the process it's less work/damage-risk to simply remove the old, install the new during the single heat ( agreeably I didn't show the install of a new port in this video ).
Each to their own I suppose, I'm not personally a fan of the bismuth route though I do use 63/37 leaded pickling of the pads sometimes to help with transfer.
Cheap and easy... just like me.
Not "Cheerful" too ?
I'm selling the copper elbows and deburring one end, so you all don't have to. They're $40.00 each, plus shipping and tax, or two for $90 plus shipping and tax.
That's the spirit!
I just use the c clamp and vertically mount wand to edge of table. Have a shave ya bum!😂
All facial hair adjustment requests must be addressed to the wife.
Useless mod.
piss off then, nobody asked for your useless opinion
Someone goes through the process of sourcing parts and trying different things so we don't have to and your comment is "useless mod". How about you say something like "Thanks for doing the graft so I don't have to but this ain't for me because I've spent 250 on a big preheater and 500 on other board heating equipment."🤐🤐
@@Holycurative9610truth
Nice!, i have been using the heatgun with no attachment and lifting off the HDMI Port, on PS4/PS5/Xbox;s after seeing @TheCod3r doing this method
But i do like the ability of NO-HANDS! , will certainly be looking in to doing this
looks like a good evolution of the method
@northridgefix
Genius 💡
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