The Black colour is not for good looks only. If you research on Black Body Radiation, you would find that black colour is better in absorption and emission of heat than silver colour, which is poor in heat absorption and emission. As a result you get high cooling performance with the black cooling fins than silver ones. However, there is no reason why it should be glossy black instead of a matt black, which may be more practical and lower maintenance, if the looks concerns you.
@@damianhla If you really read their own description it's says that its only 15% difference, which is completely unnoticeable on the average user lvl. Cheers
@EatBuildRideRepair Hydraulic brakes typically fails when the brake fluid starts to boil and bubble forms. 15% is a substantial improvement when all things being equal. It is not about braking power, which you have been incorrectly comparing. It is about preventing brake failure. 😂 If you want better braking, for example higher initial bite, upgrade to metallic pads. The standard organic pads are only good for general purpose. It has poor wearing properties especially in wet. Organic pads are not good with heat resistance. For this both ceramic and metallic pads are major improvement. Upsizing your rotor and upgrading from 2-pot to 4-pot calliper can also improve your braking, but definitely not by adding heat sink. For this, the best outcome is improved reliability, assuming you understand the exact contribution this features makes. This 15% margin in many cases translate into the difference between brake fading/ failure and the one that continuously functions. Even 5-10% is significant. This is why in racing, we have racing brake fluid that has elevated dry and wet boiling points.
If you are looking for a stronger design, than the 6 bolt mount is the way to go, your decision should be ok. Don't forget to upgrade the braking pads to metallic, if you really want the ultimate braking power, however that means the metal pads would cause a faster wear on the rotor as well.
@@EatBuildRideRepair yeah I’d seen the CL adapters and was tempted to get one of those to accommodate these discs if they performed better than the RT86, I’ve one of those on my Orbea rise atm and it did well to be honest the other day, thing is I need to order 3 new rotors and I could buy the Freeza ones instead hence me wondering
@@carlsmtb3171 I only use original shimano pads, the latest models, the noise is a tricky problem, in the most cases there are no difference between the resin ones, all of my friends with DH bikes are using full metal pads, and has no squeaky sounds at all, but this depends on the riding condition as well, metal pads are better in mud and rain as well.
I see you had deore rotor, I have deore rotor and braking power...yeah it´s braking but not much when you want to do stoppie etc. Is it worth it to upgrade to slx rotor?
I did not noticed a major barking power difference, however I switched to slx to xtr, and both used the same ice tech sandwich, alloy steel alloy construction. The big difference is when you are braking longer like a descent which lasts for 5 - 7 - 10 mins, and you don't have any segments to let the brakes cool down, than it's a big help to have the ICE TECH FREEZA system, and bigger rotor, with alloy legs (the 180mm has 5 of this, which is also an upgrade compares to the 160mm which has only 4). If you are interested purely on the braking power for stoppie, than the brake itself and the pads are more important, like steel pads for example are a bit more firm than organic ones.
Thanks for the video...
Excellent review ❤thx
Best brake rotor ❤ Shimano XTR, here in Italy it costs 60€
The Black colour is not for good looks only. If you research on Black Body Radiation, you would find that black colour is better in absorption and emission of heat than silver colour, which is poor in heat absorption and emission. As a result you get high cooling performance with the black cooling fins than silver ones. However, there is no reason why it should be glossy black instead of a matt black, which may be more practical and lower maintenance, if the looks concerns you.
@@damianhla If you really read their own description it's says that its only 15% difference, which is completely unnoticeable on the average user lvl. Cheers
@EatBuildRideRepair Hydraulic brakes typically fails when the brake fluid starts to boil and bubble forms. 15% is a substantial improvement when all things being equal. It is not about braking power, which you have been incorrectly comparing. It is about preventing brake failure. 😂 If you want better braking, for example higher initial bite, upgrade to metallic pads. The standard organic pads are only good for general purpose. It has poor wearing properties especially in wet. Organic pads are not good with heat resistance. For this both ceramic and metallic pads are major improvement. Upsizing your rotor and upgrading from 2-pot to 4-pot calliper can also improve your braking, but definitely not by adding heat sink. For this, the best outcome is improved reliability, assuming you understand the exact contribution this features makes.
This 15% margin in many cases translate into the difference between brake fading/ failure and the one that continuously functions. Even 5-10% is significant. This is why in racing, we have racing brake fluid that has elevated dry and wet boiling points.
What are cheaper / stronger ones? I was looking at RT86 203s
If you are looking for a stronger design, than the 6 bolt mount is the way to go, your decision should be ok. Don't forget to upgrade the braking pads to metallic, if you really want the ultimate braking power, however that means the metal pads would cause a faster wear on the rotor as well.
@@EatBuildRideRepair yeah I’d seen the CL adapters and was tempted to get one of those to accommodate these discs if they performed better than the RT86, I’ve one of those on my Orbea rise atm and it did well to be honest the other day, thing is I need to order 3 new rotors and I could buy the Freeza ones instead hence me wondering
@@EatBuildRideRepair which pads do you recommend? I just have the OEM ones on my XTR atm, won’t metallic be noisy also?
@@carlsmtb3171 I only use original shimano pads, the latest models, the noise is a tricky problem, in the most cases there are no difference between the resin ones, all of my friends with DH bikes are using full metal pads, and has no squeaky sounds at all, but this depends on the riding condition as well, metal pads are better in mud and rain as well.
@@EatBuildRideRepair awesome I’ll do this then, can you recommend a model? Cheers
I see you had deore rotor, I have deore rotor and braking power...yeah it´s braking but not much when you want to do stoppie etc. Is it worth it to upgrade to slx rotor?
I did not noticed a major barking power difference, however I switched to slx to xtr, and both used the same ice tech sandwich, alloy steel alloy construction. The big difference is when you are braking longer like a descent which lasts for 5 - 7 - 10 mins, and you don't have any segments to let the brakes cool down, than it's a big help to have the ICE TECH FREEZA system, and bigger rotor, with alloy legs (the 180mm has 5 of this, which is also an upgrade compares to the 160mm which has only 4).
If you are interested purely on the braking power for stoppie, than the brake itself and the pads are more important, like steel pads for example are a bit more firm than organic ones.
@@EatBuildRideRepair So I need slx rotor due to steel pads.
these discs are so expensive u need to robe a bank