THIS is Why Lapping Your Cooler is SO Important!!
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- I have been struggling on trying to reach my overclocking goals which has caused me to ignore something that is so obvious...
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I always lap my sausage before frying for best pan contact
Ruski sausage
wow boris is here. thiccc lava time.
aaa true slav overclocker use mayonez
I never expected you here comrade...
Didn't expect you here Boris
Me building a PC: I need to be relatively carefull not to damage parts.
Jay: So im grinding down my parts and throwing a c clamp to keep it together while using vaseline on my gpu
That is some funny stuff right there
@@JesseGaming7593 funny "stuffs"
I'll just leave my comment here -- this video is kind of ridiculous lol.
Jay: "Even microns of difference on the copper will impact cooling!!!"
Also Jay: "I'm going to leave VISIBLE scratching on the copper. Because it will help the paste bite."
I'm going to go ahead and place a hefty wager that visible markings on copper leaves a huge number of 'microns' difference. Kind of silly. Now you need a whole other source, to take information seriously. Why not simply state what grit sandpaper will be the most effective? Is it 800? Why? What evidence or trials support that?
@@wes7839 lapping makes the CPU flatter which increases cooling through the greater surface area. He just left it feeling a bit rough so that the paste would hold more firmly. Think like you're sanding a piece of metal to paint. You sand it flat and smooth but still a little rough for the paint to hold.
@@christopherdavies7403 what does he mean by "lapping the cpu"?
I used to lap carbon seals for turbine engines. They needed to be FLAT considering this was hard carbon on stainless steel. If you want an even flat lapping, always use a figure of 8 pattern! A proper figure of 8, along with rotating the unit after a few laps, will self cancel out a ton of uneven pressure you may put on the unit.
I was waiting for someone to mention figure-85 lapping. That with "walking the circle" cancels out the uneven flatness, but the "paste" dries out and causes it's OWN problems, EVEN _IF_ you're diligent and use as THIN a layer of paste, as possible. Center clamp ok I IF that's what you want in order to feel more comfortable with your results, but DO NOT over-tighten corner screws, and if you've done your lapping CORRECTLY , NO center clamp necessary, and the flex in the pressure angle of the screw-threads (if your paste is THIN enough) is sufficient to get you the contact you need. Check it from time to time. Also' IF you use paste, it DRIES OUT over time anyway, obviating your bedst efforts anyway. BTW- the Sub-Micron "scratches" are NOT for " "grip". They're for increased contact surface area for the paste.
He's right, tho about NOT polishing the faces, as Then you get a "boundary layer" effect that actually inhibits dissipation.
Take it as high as you POSSIBLY can without adding a "polished" shine, and you'll get results reasonably close to your intended goal. Any better than that and you're looking at Pro-grade Shops , equipment and technicians - also valid IF _THAT'S_ your intent.
Ok, ALL the BEST to ALL here-
C.
Lapping carbon seals for turbines….your my hero.
forget the figure 8 and self cancel bullshit - just use consistent force, consistent sandpaper grit and a consistent flat surface for both the cpu and cpu cooler or use polishing compound and grind cpu and cpu cooler together until they fit well
@@kiyoponnn tell me how to use consistent pressure. It's impossible even with a jig, to do by hand. There's no way that I can think of to do consistent pressure 100% of the time
@@Tadders use a weight or something ya dip
For what it’s worth, I’m loving this series
Nick, it worries me when the channels I subscribe to cross streams. The Ghostbusters told me it would be bad.
When one of your favorite knife/edc reviewers wanders over to your favorite pc/tech guy channels....
what. the. fuck. crossover of a lifetime right now
Hello there! I didn't know you were a tech nerd too!
top tip, color the surface you're lapping with sharpie, this shows exactly where the high points are and shows clearly if uneven pressure is being applied before you go TOO far,
Great tip to gauge your work.
I love the extreme overclocking videos, theyre pretty entertaining
ZzzzZzzz
yeah event if never gonna to this stuff i like that !! we need more videos
Yea while watching jay get frustrated
Jay said you’re getting burned out! Don’t make Jay a liar!!
Definitely second the motion, that's probably my favorite content on this channel
When flattening sharpening stones, a common technique is to make a grid with a pencil and see how the pencil lines get ground off to see the high and low points
In a similar fashion, I also saw someone using a lit candle to put soot on a metal piece they wanted to flatten. The low spots retained the soot after sanding.
@@drabbitz2319 ahh that's clever. Probably wouldn't want to do that if you're lapping a cpu die, though xD
@@drabbitz2319 the only trouble with this technique is that you need to let the piece cool down after this process since if you flatten it immediately after that, the metal will move on you. Best is to use marking dye.
@@spyiro2007 lapping die (or soot probably) wouldn't work on the porous stones for sharpening, and pencils are very accessible.
But yeah I'm sure for machine shops marking dye is the way to go
@@spyiro2007 I can't remember for what type of part the guy was using this, but he held it really far from the flame so probably low tepid temps? Not sure. But definitely marking dye would be excellent for this.
You sound like a TV chef talking about the perfect method to cook the meal.
Lmao like Ramsay all coked up and out of breath.
"Now we’re going to overclock the onyon"
Very entertaining video Jay! Some perspective for those wondering about engineering accuracy; My work consists of CNC polishing optical glass, specifically in manufacturing bespoke camera lenses for the film industry. It takes roughly an hour for a specialist calibrated and optimised CNC machine to polish a 60mm diameter piece of glass to ‘plano radius’ or 'flat' within -/+ 3um (0.003mm) (Human hair is 70-90um). To the point where a pass/fail could be down to the difference in ambient temperature in the building or heat from your hands. I use hand lapping to get the piece somewhere near flat prior to machining, that can be -/+ 5-10um on a professional setup. I admire your optimism in your perceived accuracy but you are not anywhere near your alleged ‘few microns’ tolerance across a surface of that size using that setup. It can be achieved manually, although it would need a very expensive lapping plate, DTI’s and/or CMM for reference and a lot of time and experience to get close to those figures by hand. If you do achieve a near perfect flatness across two opposite surfaces (specifically metals) they will wring 'adhere' to each other with an amazing amount of force.
Jay: Just one more LN2. Just one more...
Everyone:
Jay: I dOnT hAvE a PrObLeM i CaN sToP aNyTiMe I wAnT!!
WE ARE NOT BURNED OUT JAY, don’t blame us! ;)
We are burned out..... overclocking videos are mostly ...tip liquid nitrogen, look at numbers...repeat until asleep
Why is LN cooling even a thing. It's not reasonably applicable and only for reaching performance you can't even use.
@@manuw.1161 Because overclocking is a benchmarking/competitive endeavor. Seeing purely how far these cards can be pushed is interesting especially when pushed to thermal extremes.
@@manuw.1161 Well you said it yourself, to reach performance like no other cooling solution. People using LN will probably only using it for that purpose right? Who cares if it's not usable, the number is all they search.
@@manuw.1161 on the surface it may not be applicable, but if you look back at specifically designed LN2 products(gpu's, motherboards, etc) a lot of the hardware eventually becomes standard on normal models. it's the same argument of why is racing a thing? no one will ever drive that fast on the road. well if it wasn't for racing we wouldn't have all the safety enhancements that have gone into consumer cars over the last 80 years or the efficiency improvements in engines.. a friggin smart car has more hp then a 8 cylinder from the 30's while getting 50mpg..
Jay, theres this tape we use in HVAC that is like a tar thats extremely resistant to cold weather. I think you should look into that, and it dosent melt. I think it will help you tremendously.
Sounds like bituthene or roofing ice/water shield.
I wish I could tell you, I haven't done AC in 15yrs. But I know they still use it
great idea!!
Mas do you think using a heat pump ground loop system would work on the pot if the cold side was around the pot and he heated the hot side with a high power heat gun? Scaled down of course.
dont need tar ... need thermally conductive micro particulate paste you WANT the heat and cold to transfer as fast and efficiently as possible ...
Jay: "today were going to be taking you on a lapping ride"
me: ya might want to buy me a few drinks first. Oh waait wrong lapping
Sure you not thinking of the Lapping Dance Club LOL
😂
Best pun round here
"Glass is perfectly flat" every machinist replacing their expensive granite surface plates with glass. Invest in a lapping plate.
I'm not sure I'd even call this lapping tbh. sure its TECHNICALLY lapping but its nowhere near properly accurate.
Have to be careful with granite, sometimes they are ground to have a spherical surface based on what was used to flatten it.
@@timlaunyc I don't think anyone makes curved lapping plates? Maybe I'm wrong but it doesn't seem useful
Just do some 3d printing on a glass plate. You will see how, not flat glass is. Especially when talking about Microns
@@dixie_rekd9601 Correct. Commercial surface plates are usually calibrated and reconditioned periodically. See, for a example, oxtroolco's videos on surface plates. Glass wouldn't even remotely be able to compete with those specs.
Glass is “perfectly” flat. Go sit in front of a squared in mill for a little while with some glass. 😂
Float glass may be “perfectly” flat, however, it bows like a crazy, especially thin glass. It can conform to the surface it’s sitting on potentially creating a concave/convex surface. I would use a thicker piece of glass or buy a certified flat surface considering that you’re going for precision applications.
polished granite kitchen worktop/granite surface table
A granite surface plate for metrology would probably better or a precision lapping plate with diamond lapping paste would create the best flatness some theorize that a perfectly lapped cooler and cpu could be used without thermal paste
@@joshuahuman1 that’s no theory. In machining you have so perfectly flat metal plates for measuring, that they just stick together like suction cups
@@joshuahuman1 possible yes ... but not to over clock ... again EVEN spread of the paste which is a heat conductor and micro abrasion filler ...
yeah he has the basics down but his technique isnt the greatest
Who's getting burned out? You're the only chanel I follow that regularly talks about this stuff.
Trust me we aren’t getting burnt out
Are we getting cold feet though ?
We were giving the cold shoulder.
🎶 “...willing to sacrifice our love”
Rick Sanchez - “you want to experience true level?”
Ahh, I see you're a man of culture as well
Came to make the same comment. Well said, my internet friend.
Jay: "...because tempered glass is perfectly flat"
Me who's tempered glass: "No tf it isn't"
Just get a machined lapping plate, costs about $30 or less and it's machined at higher tolerances than a flexible piece of glass.
As Penrowe pointed out, lapping copper is difficult as copper is a relatively soft metal. He wound up putting aluminum foil on top of a lapping block and barely managed to get the job done.
gonor silvershot a channel called oxtools made a series of videos about precision lapping and making lapping plates this process can produce better flatness than a machined plate and can be done at home with minimal tools with patience
Lapping - darn I thought he was trying to get Phil to set on his lap.
You have to be a Patreon supporter to see that part.
I thought he was talking about licking it with that thumbnail. Just like how a dog laps up water.
0:52 "So, today we're going to be taking you on a lapping ride..."
As a high precision machinist, this makes me cringe hard, love the channel btw.
Same, wish I could work to microns by hand and eye, but as you said I love the channel too :)
yeah the micron and glass is perfectly flat part had me too xD
My two cents on lapping at home:
- Use a drop of dish soap with water on the sandpaper. This will prevent any binding in the paper resulting in a better finish.
- Lap in a figure 8 pattern. This will ensure that you have sanded/lapped at all angles.
Great stuff J!
It's nice to see the real process of overclocking, so many times I feel like why is this only happening with me when everyone else seems like it's first try they got it. Now you get the results of all that hard work troubleshooting and trying EVERYTHING, gratz.
that genuine amount of relieve you had at 12:21 .. man i can really feel how excited you are and its making me hyped too.
glad it worked out so great ^^
Jay, a tip when lapping a surface is to use marking fluid or even sharpie ink as a way to see how much material has been taken off and how close to a flat surface you're getting. It's not only great for personal use but it's also great for the viewers pleasure. You would essentially coat the surface with the dye and then start lapping. The raised bits will have its markings sanded off while the lower bit will still be covered.
Don't quote me on this, but I think someone said that the chemicals In a sharpie aren't good for the CPU. I would love to know if this is just a myth
@@andystovell sounds like something MacGyvver would kill a server with.
I guess you can just clean it off with some acetone when you're done lapping. But yeah it's a great tip.
@@lordsqueak to be fair, Jay isn't above a bit of MacGyvvering haha.
@@andystovell And that's what we want to see ;)
Saying we're burnt out when all we want is more, lol
Me, who laps every cooler and CPU he ever buys:
"Finally - vindication!"
The CPU?
@@slm8328 Yep - no reason not to once the warranty expires.
@@JMUDoc I wouldn't try anything with it after the warranty expires.
@@slm8328
Why not?
do you also do extreme overclocking or you do it just for the peace of mind better contact?
"because glass is perfectly flat"...? everyone doing 3d prints on glass will disagree.
But most 3d printers aren't even calibrated enough that the imperfections in the glass matter. Usually it is one of the axis that are not firm enough.
Glass, for anyone not using ikea mirrors, is flatter than matters for printing. Ya know what isn’t flat enough? Aluminum beds. Even high end milled or whatever beds are not as flat as a $5 pane. Unless you’re wanting to spend $100+ on your bed, glass is gonna be the most flat build surface. Any deviations are gonna be too small to matter when first layers are .2-.4mm.
@@HE-162 my 240*240mm Glassbed has ~.2mm deviation from highest to lowest point. measured at a 4*4 grid with a weight cell sensor.
I was going to say the same.
@@cutterboard4144 how thick is your glass? Even if you want to split hairs, .2 over the entire 240x240 bed is functionally perfectly flat when you’re using it to lap a 30x30 ihs somewhere within that 240x240 square
Jay: "the camera won't be able to pick it up". also jay a second later well "you won't be able to see it with the naked eye"
I knew it. Jay and his X-Ray eyes lol
Dykem/marking fluid could go a long way to help isolate where material is being removed...
Or just a quick scribble with a sharpie
Now we all have a excuse for having vaseline next to our pc
@Ssssb I had someone ask me why there's vaseline in my tool box. I said, "you're kidding me right?" It was right next to my paint gun.
On a side note can everyone go give Kyle from BitWit some love.
yes
the guy could use it
Yeah, that mans needs some love rn
The poor guy. I know what he's going through. I went through it myself. Yes, give encouragement guys.
why something wrong with him?
Just a tip. I usually mark a cross with a marker on the cooler base or the CPU IHS. You can check your progress if the lapping is even across the copper by stopping sometimes to see if the cross is coming away evenly and cleanly across the whole area being lapped. It also exposes if you are not lapping evenly or if the surface has a convex or concave profile so you're not having to guess.
Congrats and good job. Glad to see you finally got a really good run.
I'm assuming that tightening the C-clamp while the paste was still frozen solid cracked the crap out of it. It may have been possible to warm it to get it to re-flow, but at these levels it was likely never going to be good enough to repeat that run because I believe the frozen crack pulls the paste out of the surface's micropores, and logic tells me that the only way to force the paste back is to start from scratch. Think of paving with asphalt, when they lay the asphalt down and put a roller on it, you get a nice smooth surface where it's nicely adhered to the subsurface, but if you were to freeze and crack it, it never comes back together, even after warming up on hot days and the structural integrity is ruined, you have to tear it up, re-prep the subsurface and start over again.I personally would avoid ever adjusting or touching the mount when it's frozen.
me: "I don't want to lap my CPU because it'll remove the labeling and will make it impossible to resell when I upgrade"
also me: *has 8 or 9 CPUs collecting dust in the closet in a shoe box ranging from 2007 to 2018* "don't worry babies, ill never sell you"
me but with gpus
THIS GUY GETS IT, FINALLY!!!!!!
Build a display cabinet for them to show where your computers have come and what the new stuff looks like
Hot Tip: For LN2 cooling use one whole Verge of thermal paste.
I see what you did there.
Nice, Verge is now a unit of measurement.
+1 for making a Verge an SI unit for applying paste ^^ - 1Vg = the whole tube.
just because I'm burned out doesn't mean I wont keep chrome open and have the video playing all the way through in the background. Post what you enjoy Jay, the real supporters will support no matter what.
Jay Jay Jay, you keep saying we are getting bored. I'm in Australia, into sim racing (Iracing) Dont have the flashiest computer and 50 Years old. I am loving the Journey you are taking me on. I'm not into over clocking but am drawn into the trying for better pushing for more, understanding your thoughts and working out more and more as you go along. I dont think you understand or realise just what you are giving to your viewers. it inspires me to have a go at some things keep up the good work.
Jay: You need to get the result on the first run otherwise the card gets too cold
Also Jay: So I kept doing runs and it's not working so I tried tightening the mount, why isn't this working?
What the hell? A greek in the third spot? Didn't even know we had an strong oc community here. Certainly haven't heard the OGS guy
ella re malaka
You have now bro :)
All the money the EU sent is well spent
"why are you vasilining up the card" as a portuguese speaking, hearing this made me laugh a lot
Me too 😂😂😂
Me want chuckle too
Whats it mean in Portuguese?
@@parzivalplays8188 por que você está vasilinando o cartão
Use google translate to play it
It sounds hilarious in Portuguese
Yes! I’ve struggled with my AIO for a few weeks. I know it’s filled, I know the pump is good, it’s positioned well, push pull fans, but my temps are still not near as low as I know it being it down. I do have some groove scratches so.... off to the hardware store! I’m sure this is my problem now 🤙🏼
Thanks Jay
I love the "Copper" heatsinks on the VRM!!
Sadly many people who have no experience/knowledge how real copper looks like fall for those.
When I lap my CPU I did it until it was like a mirror, with up to 1600 sandpaper, the temps inproved a lot, arround 9ºC less at full load.
A delided CPU is not made with sandpaper. A delided CPU means you removed the heatspreader from the die etc.
@@VenoXj1 I mean lap, I don't know why I wrote delid XD
The flatter and better you can get the surface roughness the better the thermal transfer will be, I don't know why he said "scratches are good for paste to bite into"... Theoretically if 2 pieces were perfectly flat when you put them together they would "weld" or become the same piece. Lookup gage blocks "wringing" together, interesting phenomena.
@@Steve_Just_Steve Under normal ambient air conditions you're right, the flatter the better, but I think I remember kingpin saying you want it scuffed when lapping for LN2 applications. I think it was in GN's video where they were lapping Steve's 7980XE
@@Eidolon2003 interesting
"which has caused me to ignore something that is so obvious... " declines call from his wife.
Leaving the surface rough doesnt make the paste "stick better", the paste is already compressed and doesnt need to "stick" to anything. Leaving a rough surface increases surface area and increased surface area allows for more contact with the paste allowing more efficient heat dissipation.
If this is true, why don't most CPU's and Heatsinks come smooth with Billions of R and D and decades of experience? It would be trivial to etch in a pattern. I am curious to the answer?
I’m really enjoying the extreme overclocking videos! Keep it up!
I'm not tired of it! It's important to have fun!
Me when I seen the title: "Ah yes, lapping is very necessary. What's that?"
Total basic
@@LPgmxDan whats the D stand for
@@sharifnasser7635 Dan
"theres a little bit of water there" and jay points to a water droplet on my screen
SOCERCY!!
Jays intro this last month: "You guys are getting extremely burnt out"
I'm getting burned out on hearing that I'm burned out
Great Job Jay ! Congratz and big up from France !
Hell yea! Good to see you making progress on this.
Pro tip:
1. When Lapping you move your part in figure 8 patterns on the sandpaper without lifting it (for even wear).
2. If possible use multiple sheets of glass on top of each other because glass will bend very easily and reflect defects of the surface below.
3. You can use a sharpie to check how evenly you are sanding the surface, just color the whole surface inbetween lapping runs and check regularly if paint remains.
BTW you are sanding, lapping is one of the most misused terms.
The sharpie is key to make sure you're sanding what needs to be flattened
Circle is just as good
Use machinist's dye (or color it completely with a Sharpie) when you think you are close. A few strokes and the high spots will be shiny and the low spots will be colored. Also works well for identifying contact areas for precision moving parts...close-tolerance bearings, firearms parts, etc.
This isn't lapping. This is sanding.
Great stuff though. Loved the vid
I wonder if actual lapping would be a good idea for CPUs? A very fine grit lapping compound between an IHS an the contact plate of whatever you're cooling the thing with would probably give a very good surface-to-surface fit. Obviously wouldn't work very well for GPU:s though, doubt the bare silicon would take kindly to it.
A channel called Penrowe did a video about precision lapping a cpu and cooler. Unfortunately he sold it pcgamer and they did a small article and never tested it. He theorized that you could you could use it without thermal paste
@@joshuahuman1 thermal paste is to allow for the maximum performance possible ... not using paste has been possible since the 286 ... those who wanted to overclock to ridiculous amounts used it to allow for the higher temperatures to be more readily dissipated through to the heat sink ... in 30 years nothing has changed ... except people forget that aluminium is a better cooling medium to use than copper ... is also lighter and is more easily surfaced to provide a uniform smooth area to attach too .... just because people think liquid cooled is cool doesnt change the fact it is the SAME tech we had back when the 286 was NEW ....
@@0623kaboom Well.. None of that is even remotely true.
yeah, love the overclocking videos Jay
Glad to see your making progress instead of hitting a wall like you were before
"...glass is perfectly flat." 🤨
Imperfect use of the word perfect
;=)) !
It makes me sad to see Skunkworks decomposing in the background like that
Woo, love Overclocking!
Great idea with the Vaseline. When winter surfing we put Vaseline on our faces being the only exposed skin, it helps a bit with not loosing as much heat from the skin and helps with the wind not being as harsh.
I already know why lapping is important, something blatantly obvious that I hadn't thought of though is leaving the surface slightly rough for better thermal contact via increased surface area. Neat!
Also, get a proper lapping surface! Don't trust plain glass. Not even my idea, but others have said it in the comments and I completely agree it's a worthwhile investment for those high scores.
is it just me or does Jay look like hes being lit by the sun 6inchs above his head. the lights a little blown out in this one.?
thats just the Grey hair taking over from all the failed LN2 OCing. Poor Jay.
*Good video, but it's important to tell newcomers, that before lapping they have to ensure that they will be able to make a proper pressure between GPU/CPU and block. If the water block or cooler (especially GPU block) has mounting screws with stoppers, after lapping 0.5mm they may never make proper contact. Lapping is good but must be done properly*
Dankpods: *sees high grit sandpaper* "amateur"
Watch out, 1 grit!
Aw my Pukcell
Who is this dankpods? All I can find on UA-cam is this ipod channel that definitely doesn't do any overclocking.
@@BlackHeartScyther that's the one; no, he definitely doesn't; it's a sort of running gag with that guy
I have no intention of ever overclocking, but I like this series, keep em coming.
Wow Jay, the lights!
[Pushes bridge of glasses to forehead] Actually, this isn't lapping, just sanding:
ua-cam.com/video/sQw20rHvpRw/v-deo.html
THIS is the real content here. Great link, thanks man!!
not sure my college will let me borrow use of their lab equipment and engineering department to make my PC run faster...even if I am a student...or maybe...I could ask...
Ay someone knows penrowe
I recommend oxtoolco as well great machining content
yes. I work with a professionell lapping machine / enviroment and can confirm this isn't lapping.
@@ceilyurie856 I mean, if you do it for "research," then there's a chance. Just write a paper on it Lol
I felt jays happiness when he got that 18000 score
I hate that this comment is on top... Major spoiler.
@@skarf1428 Well... watch the video before reading comments? :D
Jay: *Gets good viewership*
Also Jay: "You guys are getting burned out!"
First cooler that I lapped was way back for my overheating AMD Athlon XP. It had nowhere enough cooling capacity (fully coated Al) but worked wonders, reducing about 6°Celsius.
If I’m not mistaken, I went up to 8000 grit, with lots of water, over a granite sink. Sharpie method was used to check for bad spots that needed further work, as well as isopropyl alcohol to clean everything between each check.
Also, never ever touch the prepped surface, oils from your fingers will interfere if you’re going for the “micron/mirror finish”.
I wish I still had that time and will, to lap the IHS of an old Xeon that I have running overclocked and undervolted...
2:25 Tempered glass is almost guaranteed to not be flat. Float glass is the only choice. As far as glass goes that is.
Love the overclocking and hardware videos... Linus is just building PC's Jay is still making cool content
Jayz my fave but GN Steve is a close second, first fun then fact finding deep dives
11:32
The Verge: A THERMALPASTE APPLICATOR 👁👃🏻👁
also called an icecream to go spoon
"Glass is perfectly flat." _Makes pedantic noises._
I know right when you learn about the world of precision you learn that even the flattest surfaces are not truly flat or perfect
the only time glass is actually flat is just before they lift it off the cooling bed ... after that it never is flat again ...
No need to worry that we, the audience, get tired of watching these videos.
For me, what keeps this interesting, is when there's progress or new information with each video. I would probably get tired of this if it was just the same thing over and over, but new elements, new methods of attempt, new discoveries etc.. All of that keeps it fresh and interesting.
Thank you Jay for enduring the tedious and repetitive testing on your end, so that we can see the condensed interesting parts on our end.
Awwww its nice to see happy jay 🤗
When he rubs that do any of you get that tingly feeling
Guys, you are tired, before doing reviews, you first read about FBC14 algorithm
Spam
“Today we’re gonna take you along for a lapping ride”
“One could almost call it a lap dance”
Congratz man!!
You could try submerging the rig in a pure gas to eliminate any moisture issue theres many options but probably helium would be best due to low liquidation temps
Last time I was this early the Skunkworks didn't have any gunk in it.
(did I make this joke already?)
"Some groove is ok, you want the thermal paste to have some bite in there" - my understanding is the surfaces want to be as clean and tight-fitting as possible, thermal paste is secondary in thermal transfer to the die and block material, therefore you want as little thermal paste as possible, grooves would just increase the surface area/quantity of thermal paste, which in turn will retard thermal transfer as there's now more paste to pass through. The ideal scenario would be to have the surfaces as clean as gauge blocks with the barest hint of thermal paste to fill any microscopic imperfection. Lapping, yes, absolutely. Grooves? Nyet, lap those bastards until you can see a decent reflection.
Yup, you want to polish that thing to a mirror finish so there is as little groves as physically possible.. Also using something like Persian Blue or any lapping dye would be useful for identifying high spots.
Perfect mirrors work OK with small dies but with the size of modern GPUs or CPU heatspreaders and the viscosity of most thermal pastes, you want them very very flat with just the merest hint of surface texture to allow the paste to flow out under typical not-C-clamp mounting pressure.
@@mattd5136 Texture will aid static tension, not reduce it. Also a slight rotating side-to-side wiggle when applying the cooling block to the die is by far the best way to seat and minimise thermal paste in the contact, I've had a good 25 years of building to see what works just nice.
There is a fine line where a little groove does equate to more surface area for heat transfer, but that walks a razor's edge. I was playing around with aluminum cooling blocks for a while trying to see which heat paste had the best conductivity by measuring how long it took to raise the temp of a gallon of water. (using crappy lab procedures on my part most likely) I found that they worked best when there was flat blocks that had just a faint hint of texture to them. but with that being said, I suspect there may have been other stuff going on in that situation. .... I also may have had far to much free time with a walk in freezer.
Don’t worry Jay we went Burnt out your 3090 on the other hand, she’s had it tough
Hey Jay... to get a better idea of where its uneven, you can use blue or red dye for like 7 usd from home depot. It´s for especially this purpose.
Consider adding 100pF/470pF G0G material or X7R capacitors on back of capacitors for core filtering, it may help you a lot. As they are power hungry it can surely help with OC.
jay if its temperd glass jay it wont be perfecty flat.
Are you saying it was ... tampered with?
FBC14 algorithm is the best, there is no point in arguing with this
Yes there is.
@@GFG2gifted no there isn't.
@@corinelson7837 then why argue? Because you just entered yourself into an argument that you also said there is no point in having. Make up your mind.
@@GFG2gifted because beer. And challenging the mind from time to time is healthy.
@@corinelson7837 thank you for proving my point. Hope you quit drinking like I did. 🙏
I'm not burnt out at all on the extreme overclocking, they're your best videos.
Pretty sure it was the lapping that helped. If you think about it the mount was consistent showing more contact to the center of the die. If it was the mount that contact point would have been moving pre lap.
Jay, as a car guy and aircraft engine guy I've done my share of lapping on seals... May I suggest rather than a N/S/E/W method of lapping, using a figure 8.
This is some advanced stuff. Interesting... But also makes me a bit nervous.
you could always tighten the 4 screws evenly is a cross pattern, you can get screw driver style "torque wrenches" made for TPMS systems in cars. They are extremely sensitive at low torque specs. I feel they would work well in this application, they can take most types of bites like philliphs or hex pretty much what ever you need.
Been really into all of these ln2 vids. I am a newbie at all computer stuff, but just out of curiosity why not use a torque wrench with your c-clamp? Could be a way to have a very consistent mounting pressure. Keep up with the awesome vids
Have you considered using machinists calibrated blocks for use between the g clamp and the back of the die? They are supper flat and easy to get hold of. You get them from special machine tooling companies. Probably be around 50quid in the uk for a set. Plus they will act as a further heat sink to give u a more consistent temperature.
if the metal is shrinking when you cool down the pot shouldnt you tighten the mount