I just received this fan today and will be replacing the two large double rack Titan fans such as the ones you replaced. My issue is my fridge is on a slide out so it exhausts through the top side and not the roof. On a warm day my Norcold would only get down to 45/50˚ in the box , the freezer wasn't too bad. I installed the larger double rack Titan fans in the top vent having cut the vent to accommodate the fans so it would exhaust unimpeded. And it work magnificently. On a hot day, the empty fridge box would get down to 26/28˚, the freezer -10˚. Yay! The problem was if it rained on that side of the trailer water could enter through the fans which is a no no. I bought a new vent cover and will install the 6C60(A) and see how it goes. I'll get back with the results sometime this summer.
looks like a lot better alternative than my home made computer fan set up. I've only needed them 2x though; but they are not water resistant.... We'll have to wait & see how you prove these to be viable... TNX
Cool idea using a squirrel fan. I've been trying to come up with a better cover for the RV frig, the existing ones block the air flow too much. Was thinking some type of exhaust louver that opens up would give you lot's of airflow and get the heat out.
My gut feeling is it will hold OK. With the previous fans, I only used 4 dabs of silicone to mount them, and in 3 years and 10s of thousands of miles, no problems. My fridge is located close to above the axles, so there is not much bouncing. A rear fridge could be a different story though.
I think it will work well, I don't feel any substantial amount of air coming back out the other holes. The fan blows the air straight back in a fairly narrow field. When it is hot there is a natural air flow of heat rising up the stack. The fans enhance that.
Interesting, I wonder if the air exchange is the same whether you use it as an intake or exhaust. I have a single computer fan just on the exhaust side. Do you think too much air movement could adversely affect the refrigerator function?
Not sure. The OEM seems to place its fans if installed around the middle right near the cooling fins. Not on electric but too much air movement could blow out the burner flame I guess but it would take a lot, people often drive at freeway speeds with the fridge running and I've camped with high winds blowing against the camper and doesn't seem to affect it. The burner flame is pretty well shielded by metal.
Here are the specs: TTC-SC60(A) ● Outline Dimension: 56 x 54 x 425 mm ● Fan Dimension: Φ 30 x 300 mm ● Rated Voltage: 12V DC ● Rated Current: 0.6 A(MAX) ● Power Consumption: 7.2 W(MAX) ● Rated Speed: 1200~3400 RPM ● Airflow: 27~77 CFM ● Static Pressure: 1.6~2.74 Inch H₂O ● Noise Level: 17~41.8 dBA
At the end of the day - is it saving electricity or propane? You're adding something that draws electricity to reduce the amount of draw from something else. Have you gathered any current draw data to see if it's worth it? Or is this just needed cuz the fridge just can't keep up with high external temps?
Saves on propane as the fridge cycles on less and helps keep the food cold and frozen in very hot temperature environments. Fridge works less hard so should last a bit longer. Heat is also a killer of electronics like the stuff found on the fridge controller board. Here are the specs: Amp draw is very little. Cheers, Ray TTC-SC60(A) ● Outline Dimension: 56 x 54 x 425 mm ● Fan Dimension: Φ 30 x 300 mm ● Rated Voltage: 12V DC ● Rated Current: 0.6 A(MAX) ● Power Consumption: 7.2 W(MAX) ● Rated Speed: 1200~3400 RPM ● Airflow: 27~77 CFM ● Static Pressure: 1.6~2.74 Inch H₂O ● Noise Level: 17~41.8 dBA
@@LoveYourRV nice to see that 7.2W is max. Interesting, maybe I'll consider it in the future as I chop away at higher priority upgrades. Thanks for sharing.
When I first saw that fan I was waif you were going to put inside fridge to circulate cold air. I have trouble with some areas freezing and other areas not staying so cold. I also remembered you had installed fans out in stack previously so assumed that was what you were planning. Any reason you couldn’t?
I imagine you could do that, but its pretty big to go in the fridge. I have one of their little fridge air circulation fans inside. It was battery powered but I modded it to run off the RV 12VDC power so I don't need to replace or recharge batteries for it. ua-cam.com/video/2IPPoaDdcnQ/v-deo.html
My boat fridge is a Nova Cool 12V compressor type www.novakool.com/r5810-1 Its install in the kitchen cabinetry so not sure. It seem to cool very well.
Finally installing this fan on the back, I’m going to draw air in at the bottom. Do you find 1 fan to be enough? Also as you’ve said, it’s a little too big for inside. I want to add a fan inside to help circulate air to avoid the spots that get too cold freezing drinks next to fins in back. Can you recommend a 12v hard wired fan for inside?
The fridge seemed to work just as well automatically turning on and speeding up as needed, but I didn't do any scientific experiments in controlled temperature conditions or anything comparing power and gas usage. It did cause the plastic panel to rattle, which I addressed in this video ua-cam.com/video/vKdpKqDLztM/v-deo.html and I'm currently using it on my boat to keep chargers cool in a cabinet See here ua-cam.com/video/lAva1W0o6sI/v-deo.html Cheers, Ray
Not really, since if the fridge is too cold inside, it shuts off until it warms up enough to run again and create heat. At best, ventilation can only bring the temperature to the outside ambient. The Titan fans have thermostats that turn the fans off when temps are cool, so don't waste power running when unnecessary. Cheers, Ray
I reached up in the cavity with my arm and used a bit of Gorilla tape to tape the wire nearby on the wall. I also have a set of second fans and sensor near the top of the roof vent.
@@LoveYourRV Just to confirm you went from the lower vent area and went as high as you could? I only ask cause i have the same deal; vent down low; vent on the roof. Those coils are obviously close to the upper vent; i don't think i have a solid way to get anywhere near those coils from down low. Does it really matter that its that close down low?
Yes, it doesn't have to be up very high I find as the boiler and lower pipes will create quite a bit of heat anyway as the fridge cycles on more and more in hot weather. So I find the fans get going plenty fast when its hot out. Btw, if you haven't seen them I have published a pair of updates to this review ua-cam.com/video/vKdpKqDLztM/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/lAva1W0o6sI/v-deo.html
Hi Ray, I watched your video and think that fan would work great. My problem is that I already purchased two of the 140mm double fans like the one attached to your lower vent. My question to you is, how did you attach the older fan to your vent cover? I have brackets that kind of work but I don’t not want to use screws and zip ties look kinda cheesy. Thanks for your video and input. -Dennis
Hi Dennis, I used silicone rubber, as seen here: ua-cam.com/video/bzKF7NgMDHw/v-deo.html I used some of the hardware to act as little legs. The bottom is hooked onto a ledge on the grill, and the top is held only by the silicone. It worked great. Just make sure the grill surface is clean and it sits flat for a day or so and let the silicone fully cure. Here is a another larger set mounted the same way ua-cam.com/video/bzKF7NgMDHw/v-deo.html
Thank you. The fans I have are just like the one you have mounted in your roof vent. Those brackets are kind of funky trying to mount to the vent cover on the side of the trailer. Thanks for your input. I sure do like the new squirrel cage model you demonstrated. I just don’t know if I can stomach shelling out another $200 for the 2 of them. I guess I could try and sell the two 140mm ones I currently have to help. Thanks again for your help. Oh btw, do you see any difference in performance between the squirrel cage and older style “computer” fans from Titan?
@@dennisbachman4316 Performance has been good. I tried with just it running, not the top set, and it cooled well. The only issue I've run into is that at higher speeds, it causes a vibration, and since the fridge's lower plastic panel is not very tight fitting, it can cause a noisy vibration. We have some warmer weather coming with sun on the fridge side most of the day, so I've tried embedding the magnetic catches on silicone rubber as a fix. I'll see how that goes and report back with an updated video in about a week. Cheers, Ray
Hmm, that’s not so great to hear. I wonder if the unit you have is out of balance or if they all have a vibration. It’ll be interesting to see if your fix works. I am unable to fit the TTC-SC 20 ( rack fan) in my upper vent without hitting the cooling fins so I hope this will end up working out. Cheers-enjoy the warm weather. Dennis
Being Taiwan and Germany based I bet they have never tested it on a typical loose-fitting North American Dometic fridge panel. Their literature always shows International RVs with much different-looking fridge, window and roof vents. I think that's why they like to have me test the fans out. I give their fan quality top marks but design for our RVs here in North America is lacking Today it was rattling quite a bit. I've added two zip ties to the top of the lower vent where it naturally is loose fitting, and that has tightened the vent, and so far, so good.
that would be great, We're going to be in Arizona in January. We'll see where you're at or we can get them into mail whichever works best. I think we should get together and go To Mexico for a martyrida.
One thing that I'm concerned about is the weight on these, did you have any problems with yours with your move down to arizona? I have one of these sitting on my workbench ready to go in but, I'm a bit concerned about the weight.
We were worried about weight, so used velcro and just pop it on when we get to our destination. Then pull it off when we leave... we also used it on the top vent to push hot air out...
Hey Ray, just another quick question…ai saw that you have the dinosaur thermistor adjuster plugged inline with your thermistor. I was looking at those as well. Do you see a difference using that device? Have a nice day!
Yes, I find that I'm able to dial into a precise temp 34F on the top shelf better than with the slider thermistor alone. Here is the install video ua-cam.com/video/MUo36YK1vK4/v-deo.html
No, it comes with no connector, just red and black wires ready to be connected to a 12VDC source. You can see them here connected via alligator clips in my initial test ua-cam.com/video/28SAYgyJlAo/v-deo.html
UPDATE - Fixed Annoying Noise Caused by Loose Cover - ua-cam.com/video/vKdpKqDLztM/v-deo.html
*Titan website link* - www.titan-cd.com/en/product/TTC-SC60-Series.html
*Amazon* - amzn.to/3MhskvP
*Previous Titan Fan Reviews* - www.loveyourrv.com/?s=titan
I just received this fan today and will be replacing the two large double rack Titan fans such as the ones you replaced. My issue is my fridge is on a slide out so it exhausts through the top side and not the roof. On a warm day my Norcold would only get down to 45/50˚ in the box , the freezer wasn't too bad. I installed the larger double rack Titan fans in the top vent having cut the vent to accommodate the fans so it would exhaust unimpeded. And it work magnificently. On a hot day, the empty fridge box would get down to 26/28˚, the freezer -10˚. Yay! The problem was if it rained on that side of the trailer water could enter through the fans which is a no no. I bought a new vent cover and will install the 6C60(A) and see how it goes. I'll get back with the results sometime this summer.
looks like a lot better alternative than my home made computer fan set up. I've only needed them 2x though; but they are not water resistant.... We'll have to wait & see how you prove these to be viable... TNX
Cool idea using a squirrel fan. I've been trying to come up with a better cover for the RV frig, the existing ones block the air flow too much. Was thinking some type of exhaust louver that opens up would give you lot's of airflow and get the heat out.
Cleaner fit than the other ones. I don't know about the 3M tape, though.
Earthquake box going down the road. Give us something nicer to secure it with
My gut feeling is it will hold OK. With the previous fans, I only used 4 dabs of silicone to mount them, and in 3 years and 10s of thousands of miles, no problems. My fridge is located close to above the axles, so there is not much bouncing. A rear fridge could be a different story though.
If your going to tape it clean the surface then use adhesion promoter then tape it.
I wonder if by mounting it to the vent, whether the airflow would short-circuit - blow out the vent above the inlet, rather than up the stack?
I think it will work well, I don't feel any substantial amount of air coming back out the other holes. The fan blows the air straight back in a fairly narrow field. When it is hot there is a natural air flow of heat rising up the stack. The fans enhance that.
I was going to ask what the max amperage was, but on their web page I see that it is 0.6 amps. Not bad
I don't have a fan for mine. Think I'm gonna look into that
You can have the Titan set I took out if you like :) Once I'm in the USA, I can mail them to you or wait until we meet again.
Interesting, I wonder if the air exchange is the same whether you use it as an intake or exhaust. I have a single computer fan just on the exhaust side. Do you think too much air movement could adversely affect the refrigerator function?
Not sure. The OEM seems to place its fans if installed around the middle right near the cooling fins. Not on electric but too much air movement could blow out the burner flame I guess but it would take a lot, people often drive at freeway speeds with the fridge running and I've camped with high winds blowing against the camper and doesn't seem to affect it. The burner flame is pretty well shielded by metal.
Whats the Amp draw , im wondering the running amp draw when its 115 in Arizona lol
Here are the specs:
TTC-SC60(A)
● Outline Dimension: 56 x 54 x 425 mm
● Fan Dimension: Φ 30 x 300 mm
● Rated Voltage: 12V DC
● Rated Current: 0.6 A(MAX)
● Power Consumption: 7.2 W(MAX)
● Rated Speed: 1200~3400 RPM
● Airflow: 27~77 CFM
● Static Pressure: 1.6~2.74 Inch H₂O
● Noise Level: 17~41.8 dBA
At the end of the day - is it saving electricity or propane? You're adding something that draws electricity to reduce the amount of draw from something else. Have you gathered any current draw data to see if it's worth it?
Or is this just needed cuz the fridge just can't keep up with high external temps?
Saves on propane as the fridge cycles on less and helps keep the food cold and frozen in very hot temperature environments. Fridge works less hard so should last a bit longer. Heat is also a killer of electronics like the stuff found on the fridge controller board.
Here are the specs: Amp draw is very little. Cheers, Ray
TTC-SC60(A)
● Outline Dimension: 56 x 54 x 425 mm
● Fan Dimension: Φ 30 x 300 mm
● Rated Voltage: 12V DC
● Rated Current: 0.6 A(MAX)
● Power Consumption: 7.2 W(MAX)
● Rated Speed: 1200~3400 RPM
● Airflow: 27~77 CFM
● Static Pressure: 1.6~2.74 Inch H₂O
● Noise Level: 17~41.8 dBA
@@LoveYourRV nice to see that 7.2W is max. Interesting, maybe I'll consider it in the future as I chop away at higher priority upgrades. Thanks for sharing.
When I first saw that fan I was waif you were going to put inside fridge to circulate cold air. I have trouble with some areas freezing and other areas not staying so cold. I also remembered you had installed fans out in stack previously so assumed that was what you were planning. Any reason you couldn’t?
I imagine you could do that, but its pretty big to go in the fridge. I have one of their little fridge air circulation fans inside. It was battery powered but I modded it to run off the RV 12VDC power so I don't need to replace or recharge batteries for it. ua-cam.com/video/2IPPoaDdcnQ/v-deo.html
@@LoveYourRV I’m going to do something this winter to circulate inside fridge off 12v.
What about adapting this to your boat fridge Ray?
My boat fridge is a Nova Cool 12V compressor type www.novakool.com/r5810-1 Its install in the kitchen cabinetry so not sure. It seem to cool very well.
Finally installing this fan on the back, I’m going to draw air in at the bottom. Do you find 1 fan to be enough? Also as you’ve said, it’s a little too big for inside. I want to add a fan inside to help circulate air to avoid the spots that get too cold freezing drinks next to fins in back. Can you recommend a 12v hard wired fan for inside?
Looks nice
How does the performance of this compare with the original Titan fans you had?
The fridge seemed to work just as well automatically turning on and speeding up as needed, but I didn't do any scientific experiments in controlled temperature conditions or anything comparing power and gas usage. It did cause the plastic panel to rattle, which I addressed in this video ua-cam.com/video/vKdpKqDLztM/v-deo.html and I'm currently using it on my boat to keep chargers cool in a cabinet See here ua-cam.com/video/lAva1W0o6sI/v-deo.html Cheers, Ray
Safe travels.
I’m left wondering if one can have too much ventilation through the back of an absorption refer? Your thoughts?
Not really, since if the fridge is too cold inside, it shuts off until it warms up enough to run again and create heat. At best, ventilation can only bring the temperature to the outside ambient. The Titan fans have thermostats that turn the fans off when temps are cool, so don't waste power running when unnecessary. Cheers, Ray
Thanks for sharing!
How do you get the heat sensor near the upper coils
I reached up in the cavity with my arm and used a bit of Gorilla tape to tape the wire nearby on the wall. I also have a set of second fans and sensor near the top of the roof vent.
@@LoveYourRV Just to confirm you went from the lower vent area and went as high as you could? I only ask cause i have the same deal; vent down low; vent on the roof. Those coils are obviously close to the upper vent; i don't think i have a solid way to get anywhere near those coils from down low. Does it really matter that its that close down low?
Yes, it doesn't have to be up very high I find as the boiler and lower pipes will create quite a bit of heat anyway as the fridge cycles on more and more in hot weather. So I find the fans get going plenty fast when its hot out. Btw, if you haven't seen them I have published a pair of updates to this review ua-cam.com/video/vKdpKqDLztM/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/lAva1W0o6sI/v-deo.html
Hi Ray, I watched your video and think that fan would work great. My problem is that I already purchased two of the 140mm double fans like the one attached to your lower vent. My question to you is, how did you attach the older fan to your vent cover? I have brackets that kind of work but I don’t not want to use screws and zip ties look kinda cheesy. Thanks for your video and input. -Dennis
Hi Dennis, I used silicone rubber, as seen here: ua-cam.com/video/bzKF7NgMDHw/v-deo.html I used some of the hardware to act as little legs. The bottom is hooked onto a ledge on the grill, and the top is held only by the silicone. It worked great. Just make sure the grill surface is clean and it sits flat for a day or so and let the silicone fully cure. Here is a another larger set mounted the same way ua-cam.com/video/bzKF7NgMDHw/v-deo.html
Thank you. The fans I have are just like the one you have mounted in your roof vent. Those brackets are kind of funky trying to mount to the vent cover on the side of the trailer. Thanks for your input. I sure do like the new squirrel cage model you demonstrated. I just don’t know if I can stomach shelling out another $200 for the 2 of them. I guess I could try and sell the two 140mm ones I currently have to help. Thanks again for your help. Oh btw, do you see any difference in performance between the squirrel cage and older style “computer” fans from Titan?
@@dennisbachman4316 Performance has been good. I tried with just it running, not the top set, and it cooled well. The only issue I've run into is that at higher speeds, it causes a vibration, and since the fridge's lower plastic panel is not very tight fitting, it can cause a noisy vibration. We have some warmer weather coming with sun on the fridge side most of the day, so I've tried embedding the magnetic catches on silicone rubber as a fix. I'll see how that goes and report back with an updated video in about a week. Cheers, Ray
Hmm, that’s not so great to hear. I wonder if the unit you have is out of balance or if they all have a vibration. It’ll be interesting to see if your fix works. I am unable to fit the TTC-SC 20 ( rack fan) in my upper vent without hitting the cooling fins so I hope this will end up working out. Cheers-enjoy the warm weather.
Dennis
Being Taiwan and Germany based I bet they have never tested it on a typical loose-fitting North American Dometic fridge panel. Their literature always shows International RVs with much different-looking fridge, window and roof vents. I think that's why they like to have me test the fans out. I give their fan quality top marks but design for our RVs here in North America is lacking
Today it was rattling quite a bit. I've added two zip ties to the top of the lower vent where it naturally is loose fitting, and that has tightened the vent, and so far, so good.
that would be great, We're going to be in Arizona in January. We'll see where you're at or we can get them into mail whichever works best. I think we should get together and go To Mexico for a martyrida.
OK, will hang onto them for ya
I sent you my address on FB. have you got your Jan. destination planed yet?@@LoveYourRV
We don't plan ahead very far just go with the flow
So what about nuisance nois?
ua-cam.com/video/vKdpKqDLztM/v-deo.html
One thing that I'm concerned about is the weight on these, did you have any problems with yours with your move down to arizona?
I have one of these sitting on my workbench ready to go in but, I'm a bit concerned about the weight.
So far no issues, drove from BC to southern California and parts of Interstate 5 were rough in spots
Thanks so much - I really appreciate your videos and reviews. @@LoveYourRV
You're welcome. :)
We were worried about weight, so used velcro and just pop it on when we get to our destination. Then pull it off when we leave... we also used it on the top vent to push hot air out...
Can we get this in Ontario Canada .
I don't see it on the Canada Amazon website yet but sometimes the USA Amazon site ships to Canada
Hey Ray, just another quick question…ai saw that you have the dinosaur thermistor adjuster plugged inline with your thermistor. I was looking at those as well. Do you see a difference using that device? Have a nice day!
Yes, I find that I'm able to dial into a precise temp 34F on the top shelf better than with the slider thermistor alone. Here is the install video ua-cam.com/video/MUo36YK1vK4/v-deo.html
Gary was trying to answer you the answer is yes His phone is messing up
Wow dude you are so ooops handy looks good
Thanks, here is an update on the fan ua-cam.com/video/vKdpKqDLztM/v-deo.html Works well cooling wise but had a vibration which I solved.
Thanks
Did you have to cut off the connector to plug it into the 12 volt
No, it comes with no connector, just red and black wires ready to be connected to a 12VDC source. You can see them here connected via alligator clips in my initial test ua-cam.com/video/28SAYgyJlAo/v-deo.html
👍👍
$110 for a small fan....Nope