I put one of these on my 04 standard 4.7 without the underdrive. Really felt the difference in engine smoothness, I think my original balancer was going south on me. When I tightened the Torx+ fasteners I just put the balancer back on the shaft over the keyway, held it perfectly while torquing them. And I have to thank you for the video on the solid lash adjusters, made a world of difference in how the engine sounded and even better how it performed. 08+ cams are next, I have already cleaned up the stock replacement heads porting wise. Enjoy your videos, nice seeing someone else going after performance with the Jeep 4.7. Mine is more off road with a 3.5" lift, 33" tires and 4.56 gears but I do like have my engines running as good as possible. I will most likely put the 08 manifold and GM throttle body on it as well, though it is off road capable it surprises quite a few from a dig.
Mr. Martin I must say that I obviously need your channel but my wish list is growing with each video I watch. One day, I will be a multi-thousandaire and will be able to make all these mods on my Dakota. Until then, thank you sincerely as I appreciate the service you give to us all, as without you I'm sure my mechanical repairs would not go as smoothly as they have since I watched my first vid from your library.
I can't tell you how jealous I am of your ride. I have a 02 grand cherokee overland and want to do all your mods but two things are holding me back, a small tool box and a small wallet. =P Keep up the great videos!
I just want to tell you that I really appreciate your time for showing this! I have a 04 dodge ram 1500 3.7, 5 speed and this will be one of the upgrades!
I can’t wait to learn how to work on my own rig as confidently and informed as you do, you’re a great teacher and your video was amazing to follow along with. Granted I may not have a shop/garage, or half the tools or machinery equipment you do; but someday I will. I have been thinking of going to a local dealer and applying as a mechanic apprentice.
@@martinbuilt what would you recommend as far as someone with enough understanding or tools to do work such as this, but still doesn’t know ALL the things basic or not; someone who wants to start with a solid foundation of knowledge and understanding, while applying that to hands on learning? I’m going to start apprentice type of work for a local shop on my days off, hopefully it’ll all fall together and come full circle as I’m a pretty quick learner. Just been held back by space and tools and funds, so working on other cars in a shop will help there. But I want to study and learn everything from the basics, the differences in brands, car makers, engines, transmissions, etc. just all of it, what goes with what, etc. basically I’d like to get certified over time, but I’d love to go in hot with knowledge either at a shop or in school; any pointers on anything helps immensely. Thank you again!
it might be possible with your customer made installer, to use the crank bolt and washer to "push/press" the new crank seal in, to get it to go in evenly. And all the years of messing with cars, never seen the wrenches and puller used that way. Taught this old dog a new trick for sure!!!
Well. The pulley that comes stock is balanced. My 03 Durango doesn't even move when running. But, it's still a good thing what you're doing, as far as the set-up. Good job.
I ordered a Ati for my c6 corvette and when I got it I put it on the scale and it was almost 4 pounds heavier than the oem one I took off my car and they claimed it was a little lighter than the oem one so I sent it back and put a new oem one on. Don’t waste your money and you now the oem one will last at least 15 or 20 years and when you are there you do a pin kit if you are making any extra horsepower
Thank you... I was just down at Pick-A-Part shooting a video down there and I was working on a Jeep with 4.7 HO engines and on that particular engine they used a different harmonic balancer on the HO models. The harmonic balancer is heavier and actually covers up those slots where I slide the wrench is through. So unfortunately it would not work on the HO engines. I wasn't aware until today that they had a different harmonic balancer.
Hi Martin, I’ve been watching all the upgrades you’ve been doing on your 4.7 for a while. I own a 2013 4.7, and i have since new. She’s a bit beat up but i plan on doing a few mods that you’ve done once i get her fully restored. A big one which i dont think has ever been done on a 4.7 is the ZF 8HP swap which i’m currently saving up the money to do. I feel a trans with much better ratios than the RFE will do the 4.7 a lot of good,
The 08 through 13 are excellent engines they made a lot of improvements in that generation. The RFE transmissions are actually capable of 8 forward speeds but I know of nobody that knows how to program the TCM to achieve that. I used to have a couple ZF axles in a rock crawler many years ago had rear steer as well.
@@martinbuilt Interesting, i’d be intrigued to know more on how the RFE could be programmed to use 8 forward gears or how that’s possible to begin with. I know they’re very weird transmissions, but could you explain that to me if possible? Id be up to possibly figuring that out myself.
I have a Borla PROXS muffler with 3” exhaust from the y pipe back on my 02 4.7 HO. The new neighbor came walking around asking where my mustang was 😂. I said you’re looking at it lol. He couldn’t believe the 4.7 sounded like a 5.4 or 5.8. They sound incredible!
Lol @martinbuilt thanks for the video! I’ve learned so much watching the Jeep series! I laughed because it’s funny to see you clean cut 2/3 then beard last third. Still as always great video!
I'm gonna do this in my 2005 grand cherokee. Too bad the site is down but it is available else where. But they are also also 3x the price of most other ones. Hell, I got my obx racing one for my 1995 dohc neon for 69 new
Thank you, I appreciate that here is a link to the website. Let Nick know that I sent you. airram.com/product/ati-super-damper-harmonic-balancer-dodge-jeep-37l-47l-ho/
Good video Martin. I am new here. I understand that you are the 4.7L Mopar guru. I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 4.7 with 75,000 original miles that says Magnum on the top of the engine. Is that the same as the HO 4.7? How do you tell?
Hey Martin have you ever done a video on how to test why the heated seats aren't working or part time in a 2004 jeep?? Sorry to change the subject but I couldn't find it and the heated seat problem in the Jeeps is a big problem up here in the north
I wasn't even aware there was an issue with the heated seats on the Jeep Grand Cherokee so far mine been working great but then of course I live in Southern Nevada and I don't use them very often.
At the end of this video you said you were going to replace the radiator due to cooling issues. Wouldn't reducing the water pump speed add to that problem? Also I did replace my harmonic balancer on my semi Diesel engine at about 1,300,000 miles and it is much smother. My friend did not and he broke his crank shaft and had to replace his engine.
You would think slowing water pump down would add to cooling problems but it didn't. I did eventually replace the hydraulic cooling fan with an electric and replace the radiator for the factory replacement and it runs cooler than ever.
Hi Martin, do you think that a 25% slower for the water pump and oil pump for the steering AND cooling is ok for a severe use (offroading mainly) And I go a bit off-topic, do you have the numbers of the 2008 4.7 camshaft compared to HO camshaft? Keep up with the great build. Many thanks
For a off-road let's say a rock crawler where RPM is low much of the time I'm not sure I would go with the 25% underdrive. Just to be clear the engine oil pump spins exactly the same RPM because it is driven by the crankshaft. I checked the voltage on the alternator with all the accessories on the lowest it ever went was 12.5 volts. Occasionally I can feel a slight difference in the power steering at idle when I'm trying to make a quick turn I feel a little bit more resistance. Cooling still seems to be okay I did install a new radiator while I had it all apart. I'm pretty sure I'm going to be doing a electric fan conversion in the next few months. I'm just not happy with the hydraulic fan. In theory these hydraulic fan should perform very well I'm just not seeing it. As far as numbers on the 08 camshafts are you talking about lift, duration and lobe separation?
martinbuilt my wj is not a rock crawler but i am concerned that for some hps i am going to destabilize the whole system. For the camshaft, why you decided to go with the '08 instead of the HO's??? And yes if you have parameters of both cams; it's interesting!
@@GeoNemesisITA The HO cams have .030 more lift (intake) then non HO engines. The 08 have have another .037 more lift intake (.509) and .043 lift exhaust (.472) over the HO cams. The lobe separation was widened to 114.5* from 112*. I don't have any numbers for the duration. I feel this will make a great match with the 08 intake and the 75mm Throttle body that I'm currently running.
Hi Martin, the links to Air Ram do not work anymore. I am a bit confused to what I need to buy here. Checked Air Ram's website, they have the damper size and the pulley that you need to specify, and in another listing for the 4.7, they have the pulley alone. In your video, you mention that there is an optional part that can be ordered or not. Can you please specify what is needed, what is optional and preferably with ATI part numbers if possible?
Yeah I checked it out, I don't know what's going on with his website it is definitely different than it used to be. Not nearly as easy to navigate than it used to be. Maybe your best bet would be to contact ATI and order from them.
Just ordered a new H.O. engine for my Overland but my balancer is worn out and I can’t find the HO damper anywhere! Can I use the ATI super damper instead? Will it effect the engine if I don’t use the stock balancer since it’s a special balancer? Also, if I do order the ATI super damper, can I get it without the 25% under drive option? I just want it to be as stock as possible! Thanks!
Yes you can use the ATI super damper I wouldn't use anything else especially on a brand new engine. Yes you can also order it with either the 25% underdrive or the stock size pulley.
Off topic of this video: Ordered a set of Boxi Gas struts for hood of car, did I hear you talk about them? Also I will be in town, Vegas, first week in April, I might have to visit a pic-a-part, as i am in search of something...maybe I might run into your there?
I did install the Gabriel Max Control shocks that are nitrogen filled on my Jeep Grand Cherokee. Yeah I frequent the Henderson Pick-A-Part quite often. I do make it out to the North Las Vegas Pick-A-Part once in awhile. It's kind of like going to a nightclub they charge the guys a dollar to get in but the ladies get in for free LOL.
@@martinbuilt Ah ok, Henderson I did that on there website, chargin $1?!! Geez! Well the struts I just need as the OEM stopped working, I don't do any "tinkering" under the hood... lol....
The idle voltage was a little low when the electric cooling fan would be running with other accessories but by installing a 49mm pulley on the alternator that brought it to a acceptable level. Water pump and the PS seem to work just fine.
Nice videos man. Did you had it on a dyno since you made all the modifications to have it checked for the increase in hp? I got one 4.7 v8 last week, I love it but in the same day it stopped working, the coolant was getting low, and the engine seized. I git it from an auction so i can't ask the owner what are the problems. I had a look at it and i've found sand in the coolant, and it was smelling like fish.... maybe the last owner went in the ocean with this jeep. You think that could cause a problem for the engine ti stop while driving, mostly when i was pushing the brakes. First tought was that the thermostat or the water pump is broken, or the engine may be cloged somewhere so I got them all out and wash with a hise the engine and the radiator. And had a look at the thermostat and water pump, but they look like they work. Not sure about the thermostat, it opens, not too much i think, about 2-3mm when the water is about to boil, so i judge it opens at 90° C. And i got some cylinder misfire, cyl 2 misfire detect -pending fault, and cyl 7 misfire detect on red code. Can you help me with some advises please? I would really apreciate. Thank you
Sounds like you got several problems going on at the same time. You said the motor seized that wouldn't be good. My first thoughts were you got a blown head gasket. Is it using coolant in other words is there any coolant coming out of the exhaust. Doesn't sound like the thermostat is opening like it should. On the misfire I would check the wiring at the coils first. Who knows how long it's been since they change spark plugs if ever. You could also try moving the coils to a different cylinder and see if the code goes to that cylinder then you would know the coil was bad. Hope some of this helps good luck
@@martinbuilt yeah, i was thinking the same, i hope it won't be the gasket gone. It's a shame what the previous owner did with this Jeep as the first one had service history every year until 2016. They've changed the coils, injectors, oils etc but i don't see nothing about the coolant, even if the water pump seems to be changed. As for the coils they had misfire on the same 7th cyl but with no fixing results. I will try to put pins in each connector if the coils are good and i still get the error
So, a few months ago,I asked a question of Martin on this video, and he was kind enough to reply, concerning the fact that after I put this super damper in 25% underdrive pulley on my 2000 WJ 4.7, I experienced overheating issues. I could solve it by turning the heater on full blast, which told me that perhaps the cooling system just could not keep up after reducing the size of the pulley by 25%. however, Martin had not experienced the same issue, so I could began looking for other culprits, so if you are having overheating issues after installing this part, here's what I did just so you have the information. I've replaced the radiator, put in a new thermostat, flushed the system entirely, bought and installed a new water pump, and still had an issue with it overheating. I live in Texas, and it would do fine in stop-and-go traffic and in town traffic, but as soon as I hit the highway at 75 to 85 miles an hour, it would creep up to 215, 220, until I turned on the heater to blow off the excess heat, then it would return to 210. I even bought and installed one of those solid aluminum 2 core radiators off of eBay, from GPI racing. Thing is beefy, and I was quite impressed. Everything lined up perfectly. Although, you do have to bend out the core support a tiny bit at the edges of the radiator, since it is about an additional inch-and-a-half thicker than stock. This did seem to help, and definitely kept it right at 210 in the morning time, but as soon as the heat crept back up, so did the engine's temp at highway speeds. However, upon closer inspection after I went back to see what the problem could possibly be now that it had a new radiator, I noticed something. The genius engineers who designed this vehicle, of course put the AC condenser directly in front of the radiator, and even though I put the new radiator in, I hadn't looked all that closely at the condenser. it actually looks like it's quite clogged up, which could explain a lot about the airflow quality not being good enough to keep the coolant cool, because it's being blocked off by the condenser, which, if it's really bad, acts like a wall in front of the radiator. So, I'm going to install a new condenser on my AC system, and also put in a flowkooler high flow water pump. They're a bit pricey, at a hundred and thirty bucks, but it would be worth it to keep the vehicle nice and cool. Increase performance often results in the need for increased cooling system efficiency. I'm hoping these next two steps work, but hopefully this information helps anyone out there experiencing similar issues.
Amazing that you're having this much trouble keeping your engine cool. I did also replace the radiator on mine I found it clogged with dirt in that area with the metal bumper support sits directly in front of the radiator and AC condenser. Now that I replaced the hydraulic cooling fan with an all-electric the engine runs extremely cool I haven't seen temperatures higher than 200 and that is on days of 113 degrees out here in Las Vegas. You'll have to let me know if that aluminum radiator holds up I've had bad luck with the Champion aluminum radiator that I installed in my XJ I've gone through three of them. I'm done with champion.
@@martinbuilt I am a bit perplexed by it as well. I have also installed the fuel injectors that you had in another one of your videos, and an CAI from Airaid. I am running out of ideas as to what the issue is, unless there is something causing the engine to work harder than I think it is. My mileage seems to be around 15-17 MPG average, so it doesn't seem to be getting bad mileage. I already have a new cat back exhaust, and the cat was replaced at the same time. My AC system currently needs to be replaced, but even though the compressor does not work, it still spins freely and doesn't seem to hinder the engine. I have the combination mechanical and electric fans on my Jeep, and it still can't keep cool at highway speeds. Thought about replacing the mechanical fan with an electric one, but I have not found a ready-made kit for such a conversion, and I don't have anywhere to do my own fab work right now. My next planned step will be to try putting on the flowkooler water pump, and see if that helps. It's a less expensive option before I replace the AC system in a month or two. If that still doesn't work, I may have to finally bite the bullet and let a shop take a look at it. Knowing my luck, they'll figure it out in about 3 minutes and charge me $600 to fix it, and it'll be something small and stupid. I can tell you that the radiator I put in, which was a GPI Racing product, ( www.ebay.com/itm/2-row-Aluminum-Radiator-for-JEEP-GRAND-CHEROKEE-WJ-WG-4-7L-V8-1999-2000-99-00-AT/262558754225?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D3247e5f8a1ce41b99aedccad4689b68f%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D262558754225%26itm%3D262558754225%26pg%3D2481888&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Aa97f094c-bd57-11e9-8a9f-74dbd180440a%7Cparentrq%3A8821547e16c0a9e42e4f3f54fffc02ca%7Ciid%3A1 ) seems very well built, was easy to install, and definitely does help the vehicle stay cooler longer. It doesn't start to overheat now until the temp hits around 85 on the highway. I installed it this last weekend, with no issues. All the fittings lined right up, except for it being a little tight around the core support, which just needed to be adjusted with a hammer a bit. I have not heard anything positive about the champion line of radiators either. Each time it overheats, it always cools back down when I turn on the heater full blast, even while I am still on the freeway, which seems to indicate a problem with airflow. I will update after installing a new condenser and the flowkooler pump. Also looking at replacing the thermostat with a high-flow robertshaw model. www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/collections/hi-flow-water-pumps/products/1751-1999-2013-jeep-dodge-3-7l-4-7l-water-pump
@@martinbuilt Update: Since my last post, driving under normal and some off road conditions. The new radiator works extremely well. Also removed the old AC condenser. Definitely was a factor. It was warped and partially clogged. Been driving without it entirely, as a complete new AC system is on the way. No overheating in 100+ degree weather as long as it was under 2200 RPM's. At highway speeds over 75 MPH, there was still overheating, but not as significant as before. Pulled and inspected spark plugs and coils, none showed abnormal wear. It may be that at higher RPM's the stock water pump just simply does not rotate fast enough to keep up, with the 25% under drive pulley, while ambient temperatures are higher than 90F (average it has been in my area for weeks). Hoping the new Flowkooler at the end of the month will fix that. Side note, when I had the cat replaced a few weeks ago, the mechanic who inspected it said there were multiple cylinders with slight misfire. Not enough to set off a CEL, but enough for his diag machine to notice. Immediately pulled my plugs and re-gapped all of them. None were far off of .040, factory recommended gap. I run OEM champion copper's. One factor may be that when I originally got the vehicle, I replaced all of the coil packs with new coil packs with lifetime warranty autozone models, not mopar, as the mopar coil packs were 3 times as expensive. I may have to go ahead and spend the extra money if the coil packs prove to be part of the issue.
I put vents in my hood to evacuate under hood air. With the WJ's unibody design there is no gap between a body and frame for air to escape and the 4.7 is really up under the cowl not to mention pretty much stuffed in there side to side. The biggest fan in the world will only pull a limited amount of air into the engine compartment through the radiator if the air already under the hood cannot easily escape. My coolant temp dropped from around 210 in summer to 195, even pulling a 4000 lb trailer though the Arizona mountains. The AC worked better also. The real tell was hot much hot air comes out them when stopped. With the engine hot and fan running I could not keep my hand over the hood vent, the air rushing out was way too hot. Even with the engine shut off when hot the amount of hot air escaping through the vents was amazing!
In 2001 the Grands came with a Hydraulic cooling fan driven by the power steering pump. I just got done converting it to an electric fan a couple of weeks ago.
Sorry haven't got that video done yet. Here a video that would show you how to remove and replace the valve covers. Thanks for watching. ua-cam.com/video/URrQ9sMgLJs/v-deo.html
I´m eager to see how much HP Martin´s wj put...come on Martin, please tell us! I´ve been following all your mods (just seeing your vids, not able to put them into mine yet, lol)
Do you have an Instagram? I have some questions. Is that a 4.7HO? What tune or tuner/programmer works on the HO PCM? What mods aside from that grabber intake and pulley is done to yours in the video?
I do have a Instagram I have not been on it in years. Yes you can do a tune on a HO engine. Look into SCT programmers. Check out Air Ram Performance. I have done HO cams, upgraded the fuel injectors, Doug Thorley Tri y headers with 3in exhaust Flowmaster and a MagnaFlow high-flow cat. Recently I also installed the new Mission Weapon X stage 2 coils. I've also installed the 08 intake manifold and a custom build 75 mm throttle body. I will be installing the 08 camshafts and then I'm going to do the tune using a SCT programmer.
martinbuilt Sup Martin, Flow here again, I've done the Tri Y's except I did a resonator delete along with a muffler delete cause I wanted it to sound a little on the loud side. Still have cats on the new wj overland I have now. And the torque snip just like the Laredo. I have the H.O engine I've been meaning to do the diy ram air intake you did but the more and more I watch I get more curious as to how much power you are making. (If you don't mind lol)
martinbuilt I have an 02 HO, currently stock except a Y-pipe back full 3” into a Borla muffler. You said in another vid that the 08/09 intake mani is better than even the 02? The 08/09 cans are a direct bolt in to the 99-04 4.7? What fuel injectors did you use? In this vid were you floored during the pulls? I will also be looking for that 454 throttle body, my local junkyard has hundreds of the GM trucks there. And, forgive me for asking, are you the same Martin that built/build the Martin Saine trannys? Any specific model of programmer for the SCT programmer?
No I am not that Martin. Yes the 08 plus camshafts are a direct bolt in for the 99 through 07 4.7. Yes I was floored during those pulls. I have the SCT 3200 programmer. I am running the Denso 12582704 injectors. They are 264 CC I believe that comes out to right at 25 lb.
this one will but check out that price. 😲 www.newcomerracing.com/store/p23/Jeep_AMC_4.0_4.2_Stroker_%2887-06%29_Direct_Replacement_ATI_SFI_Approved_Harmonic_Six_Rib_Serpentine_Balancer_Kit.html
@@martinbuilt Figured as much. If Im looking into stroking a 4.0, should I look into a stronger damper to go with the crankshaft upgrade or is that unnecessary? Edit: just saw your second reply with the super damper link. These prices are too damn high, man! .....but look at that hardware........
@@albertogonzalez5564 you can go directly to his website and simply order the ATI damper. If you have any problems with that let me know I'll get a hold of Nick
It's not $400 for a pulley. It's $400 for the best HARMONIC BALANCER made. That is what is keeping the engine from flying apart. The pulley simply bolts to the Super Damper.
Plus money to hp gains is a lot better than headers. Good stainless headers will run $1,000+ and give about the same gain. So why not go cheaper and have a happier rotating assembly
![How to assemble an ATI Super Damper (Step by Step) [LS1]](/img/n.gif)
As a 4.7 ram owner I am thankful for Nick as he provides wonder parts and you for these helpful videos!!
Great to hear!
I put one of these on my 04 standard 4.7 without the underdrive. Really felt the difference in engine smoothness, I think my original balancer was going south on me. When I tightened the Torx+ fasteners I just put the balancer back on the shaft over the keyway, held it perfectly while torquing them. And I have to thank you for the video on the solid lash adjusters, made a world of difference in how the engine sounded and even better how it performed. 08+ cams are next, I have already cleaned up the stock replacement heads porting wise. Enjoy your videos, nice seeing someone else going after performance with the Jeep 4.7. Mine is more off road with a 3.5" lift, 33" tires and 4.56 gears but I do like have my engines running as good as possible. I will most likely put the 08 manifold and GM throttle body on it as well, though it is off road capable it surprises quite a few from a dig.
Mr. Martin I must say that I obviously need your channel but my wish list is growing with each video I watch. One day, I will be a multi-thousandaire and will be able to make all these mods on my Dakota. Until then, thank you sincerely as I appreciate the service you give to us all, as without you I'm sure my mechanical repairs would not go as smoothly as they have since I watched my first vid from your library.
I can't tell you how jealous I am of your ride. I have a 02 grand cherokee overland and want to do all your mods but two things are holding me back, a small tool box and a small wallet. =P Keep up the great videos!
Thank you, best wishes...at least you have the HO engine.
Same with my friend we trying to fix his 2000 jeep grand cherrokke with the 4.7 but small budget
@@martinbuilt I have a 08 grand Cherokee with the 3.7, would a 4.7 throttlebody fit on the stock manifold? Mine has the drive by wire throttlebody
I just want to tell you that I really appreciate your time for showing this! I have a 04 dodge ram 1500 3.7, 5 speed and this will be one of the upgrades!
Did it help your V6?
I can’t wait to learn how to work on my own rig as confidently and informed as you do, you’re a great teacher and your video was amazing to follow along with. Granted I may not have a shop/garage, or half the tools or machinery equipment you do; but someday I will. I have been thinking of going to a local dealer and applying as a mechanic apprentice.
Thank you, Seth. I really do appreciate that.
It's great to hear that my content gives you the confidence to do the job. Thank you for watching.
@@martinbuilt what would you recommend as far as someone with enough understanding or tools to do work such as this, but still doesn’t know ALL the things basic or not; someone who wants to start with a solid foundation of knowledge and understanding, while applying that to hands on learning? I’m going to start apprentice type of work for a local shop on my days off, hopefully it’ll all fall together and come full circle as I’m a pretty quick learner. Just been held back by space and tools and funds, so working on other cars in a shop will help there. But I want to study and learn everything from the basics, the differences in brands, car makers, engines, transmissions, etc. just all of it, what goes with what, etc. basically I’d like to get certified over time, but I’d love to go in hot with knowledge either at a shop or in school; any pointers on anything helps immensely. Thank you again!
@@martinbuilt thank you!
it might be possible with your customer made installer, to use the crank bolt and washer to "push/press" the new crank seal in, to get it to go in evenly. And all the years of messing with cars, never seen the wrenches and puller used that way. Taught this old dog a new trick for sure!!!
I like your idea using the crank bolt/washer
Excellent video , I have the ATI on my Grand Cherokee its definitely a must have mod!
Thank you, this should be on everybody's list of mods.
Definitely something Imma do to bring my durango more power after maintanence since the previous owner didnt take care of the SUV at all
Well. The pulley that comes stock is balanced. My 03 Durango doesn't even move when running. But, it's still a good thing what you're doing, as far as the set-up. Good job.
I can tell you the stock pulley is not balanced any where near the ati.
My h.o blew up 2 weeks ago. New motor coming in 2 weeks. Loving your videos though
Sorry to hear about your engine. ATI super damper be a good insurance policy.
That’s a neat little trick with the wrenches
glad you liked it.
Wow that Grand Cherokee is beautiful...
Thank you. I appreciate that I do love these WJs
what a nice sound martin! enjoy it
Thank you 😊
I ordered a Ati for my c6 corvette and when I got it I put it on the scale and it was almost 4 pounds heavier than the oem one I took off my car and they claimed it was a little lighter than the oem one so I sent it back and put a new oem one on. Don’t waste your money and you now the oem one will last at least 15 or 20 years and when you are there you do a pin kit if you are making any extra horsepower
For the 4.7 chrysler engine, the ATI super dampener was lighter than the OEM.
Thanks for that martin I will buy one later this year.
You're very welcome I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Take care of yourself and thank you for watching.
Wow, what a way to pull off the old harmonic balancer, wish I would have saw this video 2 months ago. LOL
Thank you... I was just down at Pick-A-Part shooting a video down there and I was working on a Jeep with 4.7 HO engines and on that particular engine they used a different harmonic balancer on the HO models. The harmonic balancer is heavier and actually covers up those slots where I slide the wrench is through. So unfortunately it would not work on the HO engines. I wasn't aware until today that they had a different harmonic balancer.
Jeep club WJ of Russia watch your videos!!! It's cool👍👍👍👍
Thank you for watching!
hi Martin,excellent work as always.
Hi Martin,
I’ve been watching all the upgrades you’ve been doing on your 4.7 for a while. I own a 2013 4.7, and i have since new. She’s a bit beat up but i plan on doing a few mods that you’ve done once i get her fully restored.
A big one which i dont think has ever been done on a 4.7 is the ZF 8HP swap which i’m currently saving up the money to do. I feel a trans with much better ratios than the RFE will do the 4.7 a lot of good,
The 08 through 13 are excellent engines they made a lot of improvements in that generation.
The RFE transmissions are actually capable of 8 forward speeds but I know of nobody that knows how to program the TCM to achieve that. I used to have a couple ZF axles in a rock crawler many years ago had rear steer as well.
@@martinbuilt Interesting, i’d be intrigued to know more on how the RFE could be programmed to use 8 forward gears or how that’s possible to begin with. I know they’re very weird transmissions, but could you explain that to me if possible? Id be up to possibly figuring that out myself.
very rarely going to hit those high rpm's however if I ever need to do a radiator swop I will make this mod too.
Man you are awesome, good job, I would like to be your assistant to learn to learn a bit more and performance my jeep...
Best sounding V8 hands down! Awesome job, Martin.
Thank you, it will even get better in the next few months.
I have a Borla PROXS muffler with 3” exhaust from the y pipe back on my 02 4.7 HO. The new neighbor came walking around asking where my mustang was 😂. I said you’re looking at it lol. He couldn’t believe the 4.7 sounded like a 5.4 or 5.8. They sound incredible!
Lol @martinbuilt thanks for the video! I’ve learned so much watching the Jeep series! I laughed because it’s funny to see you clean cut 2/3 then beard last third. Still as always great video!
Lol...Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm gonna do this in my 2005 grand cherokee. Too bad the site is down but it is available else where. But they are also also 3x the price of most other ones. Hell, I got my obx racing one for my 1995 dohc neon for 69 new
Excellent video dear
Dear, where can I get this pulley for my car 2004 - V8 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Thank you, I appreciate that here is a link to the website. Let Nick know that I sent you.
airram.com/product/ati-super-damper-harmonic-balancer-dodge-jeep-37l-47l-ho/
Good video Martin. I am new here. I understand that you are the 4.7L Mopar guru. I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 4.7 with 75,000 original miles that says Magnum on the top of the engine. Is that the same as the HO 4.7? How do you tell?
Hey Martin have you ever done a video on how to test why the heated seats aren't working or part time in a 2004 jeep?? Sorry to change the subject but I couldn't find it and the heated seat problem in the Jeeps is a big problem up here in the north
I wasn't even aware there was an issue with the heated seats on the Jeep Grand Cherokee so far mine been working great but then of course I live in Southern Nevada and I don't use them very often.
What would be a good cam to upgrade my 2008 dodge Dakota with a 4.7ltr
I would say you already got a really good set of cams in your 08.
Unfortunately there just isn't much after market support for the 08=13, 4.7 engines
At the end of this video you said you were going to replace the radiator due to cooling issues. Wouldn't reducing the water pump speed add to that problem? Also I did replace my harmonic balancer on my semi Diesel engine at about 1,300,000 miles and it is much smother. My friend did not and he broke his crank shaft and had to replace his engine.
You would think slowing water pump down would add to cooling problems but it didn't. I did eventually replace the hydraulic cooling fan with an electric and replace the radiator for the factory replacement and it runs cooler than ever.
Interesting that Martin grew a full beard between the time the balancer was installed and the time it was test driven!!!
Before I got it all back together I was working on a wire tuck. The Jeep was down for 3 weeks.
Excellent thanks.
Hi Martin, do you think that a 25% slower for the water pump and oil pump for the steering AND cooling is ok for a severe use (offroading mainly)
And I go a bit off-topic, do you have the numbers of the 2008 4.7 camshaft compared to HO camshaft?
Keep up with the great build.
Many thanks
For a off-road let's say a rock crawler where RPM is low much of the time I'm not sure I would go with the 25% underdrive. Just to be clear the engine oil pump spins exactly the same RPM because it is driven by the crankshaft. I checked the voltage on the alternator with all the accessories on the lowest it ever went was 12.5 volts. Occasionally I can feel a slight difference in the power steering at idle when I'm trying to make a quick turn I feel a little bit more resistance. Cooling still seems to be okay I did install a new radiator while I had it all apart. I'm pretty sure I'm going to be doing a electric fan conversion in the next few months. I'm just not happy with the hydraulic fan. In theory these hydraulic fan should perform very well I'm just not seeing it. As far as numbers on the 08 camshafts are you talking about lift, duration and lobe separation?
martinbuilt my wj is not a rock crawler but i am concerned that for some hps i am going to destabilize the whole system.
For the camshaft, why you decided to go with the '08 instead of the HO's???
And yes if you have parameters of both cams; it's interesting!
@@GeoNemesisITA The HO cams have .030 more lift (intake) then non HO engines. The 08 have have another .037 more lift intake (.509) and .043 lift exhaust (.472) over the HO cams. The lobe separation was widened to 114.5* from 112*. I don't have any numbers for the duration. I feel this will make a great match with the 08 intake and the 75mm Throttle body that I'm currently running.
Do you have a part number for this pulley?
Hi Martin, the links to Air Ram do not work anymore. I am a bit confused to what I need to buy here. Checked Air Ram's website, they have the damper size and the pulley that you need to specify, and in another listing for the 4.7, they have the pulley alone. In your video, you mention that there is an optional part that can be ordered or not. Can you please specify what is needed, what is optional and preferably with ATI part numbers if possible?
Yeah I checked it out, I don't know what's going on with his website it is definitely different than it used to be. Not nearly as easy to navigate than it used to be.
Maybe your best bet would be to contact ATI and order from them.
Just ordered a new H.O. engine for my Overland but my balancer is worn out and I can’t find the HO damper anywhere! Can I use the ATI super damper instead? Will it effect the engine if I don’t use the stock balancer since it’s a special balancer? Also, if I do order the ATI super damper, can I get it without the 25% under drive option? I just want it to be as stock as possible! Thanks!
Yes you can use the ATI super damper I wouldn't use anything else especially on a brand new engine. Yes you can also order it with either the 25% underdrive or the stock size pulley.
Off topic of this video: Ordered a set of Boxi Gas struts for hood of car, did I hear you talk about them? Also I will be in town, Vegas, first week in April, I might have to visit a pic-a-part, as i am in search of something...maybe I might run into your there?
I did install the Gabriel Max Control shocks that are nitrogen filled on my Jeep Grand Cherokee. Yeah I frequent the Henderson Pick-A-Part quite often. I do make it out to the North Las Vegas Pick-A-Part once in awhile. It's kind of like going to a nightclub they charge the guys a dollar to get in but the ladies get in for free LOL.
@@martinbuilt Ah ok, Henderson I did that on there website, chargin $1?!! Geez! Well the struts I just need as the OEM stopped working, I don't do any "tinkering" under the hood...
lol....
Hey Martin, does the under drive pulley have any noticeable effect on the performance of the engine auxiliaries (water pump, alternator, PS pump)?
The idle voltage was a little low when the electric cooling fan would be running with other accessories but by installing a 49mm pulley on the alternator that brought it to a acceptable level. Water pump and the PS seem to work just fine.
@@martinbuilt where did you come across the 49mm alt pulley?
@@nate4036 49mm Alternator Pulley amzn.to/3HY7huA
This guy is turning his Jeep into a hotrod!
You oughta see my 05 wk hemi mod list! Paid 5k for it when I bought it and have close to 12k in it since then. Cause ima f'n DA!
Nice videos man. Did you had it on a dyno since you made all the modifications to have it checked for the increase in hp?
I got one 4.7 v8 last week, I love it but in the same day it stopped working, the coolant was getting low, and the engine seized. I git it from an auction so i can't ask the owner what are the problems. I had a look at it and i've found sand in the coolant, and it was smelling like fish.... maybe the last owner went in the ocean with this jeep. You think that could cause a problem for the engine ti stop while driving, mostly when i was pushing the brakes.
First tought was that the thermostat or the water pump is broken, or the engine may be cloged somewhere so I got them all out and wash with a hise the engine and the radiator. And had a look at the thermostat and water pump, but they look like they work. Not sure about the thermostat, it opens, not too much i think, about 2-3mm when the water is about to boil, so i judge it opens at 90° C.
And i got some cylinder misfire, cyl 2 misfire detect -pending fault, and cyl 7 misfire detect on red code. Can you help me with some advises please? I would really apreciate. Thank you
Sounds like you got several problems going on at the same time. You said the motor seized that wouldn't be good. My first thoughts were you got a blown head gasket. Is it using coolant in other words is there any coolant coming out of the exhaust. Doesn't sound like the thermostat is opening like it should. On the misfire I would check the wiring at the coils first. Who knows how long it's been since they change spark plugs if ever. You could also try moving the coils to a different cylinder and see if the code goes to that cylinder then you would know the coil was bad. Hope some of this helps good luck
@@martinbuilt yeah, i was thinking the same, i hope it won't be the gasket gone. It's a shame what the previous owner did with this Jeep as the first one had service history every year until 2016. They've changed the coils, injectors, oils etc but i don't see nothing about the coolant, even if the water pump seems to be changed. As for the coils they had misfire on the same 7th cyl but with no fixing results. I will try to put pins in each connector if the coils are good and i still get the error
@@martinbuilt thank you for the advises. Keep up the good work!
So, a few months ago,I asked a question of Martin on this video, and he was kind enough to reply, concerning the fact that after I put this super damper in 25% underdrive pulley on my 2000 WJ 4.7, I experienced overheating issues. I could solve it by turning the heater on full blast, which told me that perhaps the cooling system just could not keep up after reducing the size of the pulley by 25%. however, Martin had not experienced the same issue, so I could began looking for other culprits, so if you are having overheating issues after installing this part, here's what I did just so you have the information.
I've replaced the radiator, put in a new thermostat, flushed the system entirely, bought and installed a new water pump, and still had an issue with it overheating. I live in Texas, and it would do fine in stop-and-go traffic and in town traffic, but as soon as I hit the highway at 75 to 85 miles an hour, it would creep up to 215, 220, until I turned on the heater to blow off the excess heat, then it would return to 210.
I even bought and installed one of those solid aluminum 2 core radiators off of eBay, from GPI racing. Thing is beefy, and I was quite impressed. Everything lined up perfectly. Although, you do have to bend out the core support a tiny bit at the edges of the radiator, since it is about an additional inch-and-a-half thicker than stock. This did seem to help, and definitely kept it right at 210 in the morning time, but as soon as the heat crept back up, so did the engine's temp at highway speeds.
However, upon closer inspection after I went back to see what the problem could possibly be now that it had a new radiator, I noticed something. The genius engineers who designed this vehicle, of course put the AC condenser directly in front of the radiator, and even though I put the new radiator in, I hadn't looked all that closely at the condenser. it actually looks like it's quite clogged up, which could explain a lot about the airflow quality not being good enough to keep the coolant cool, because it's being blocked off by the condenser, which, if it's really bad, acts like a wall in front of the radiator.
So, I'm going to install a new condenser on my AC system, and also put in a flowkooler high flow water pump. They're a bit pricey, at a hundred and thirty bucks, but it would be worth it to keep the vehicle nice and cool. Increase performance often results in the need for increased cooling system efficiency. I'm hoping these next two steps work, but hopefully this information helps anyone out there experiencing similar issues.
Amazing that you're having this much trouble keeping your engine cool. I did also replace the radiator on mine I found it clogged with dirt in that area with the metal bumper support sits directly in front of the radiator and AC condenser. Now that I replaced the hydraulic cooling fan with an all-electric the engine runs extremely cool I haven't seen temperatures higher than 200 and that is on days of 113 degrees out here in Las Vegas. You'll have to let me know if that aluminum radiator holds up I've had bad luck with the Champion aluminum radiator that I installed in my XJ I've gone through three of them. I'm done with champion.
@@martinbuilt I am a bit perplexed by it as well. I have also installed the fuel injectors that you had in another one of your videos, and an CAI from Airaid. I am running out of ideas as to what the issue is, unless there is something causing the engine to work harder than I think it is. My mileage seems to be around 15-17 MPG average, so it doesn't seem to be getting bad mileage. I already have a new cat back exhaust, and the cat was replaced at the same time. My AC system currently needs to be replaced, but even though the compressor does not work, it still spins freely and doesn't seem to hinder the engine. I have the combination mechanical and electric fans on my Jeep, and it still can't keep cool at highway speeds. Thought about replacing the mechanical fan with an electric one, but I have not found a ready-made kit for such a conversion, and I don't have anywhere to do my own fab work right now.
My next planned step will be to try putting on the flowkooler water pump, and see if that helps. It's a less expensive option before I replace the AC system in a month or two. If that still doesn't work, I may have to finally bite the bullet and let a shop take a look at it. Knowing my luck, they'll figure it out in about 3 minutes and charge me $600 to fix it, and it'll be something small and stupid.
I can tell you that the radiator I put in, which was a GPI Racing product,
( www.ebay.com/itm/2-row-Aluminum-Radiator-for-JEEP-GRAND-CHEROKEE-WJ-WG-4-7L-V8-1999-2000-99-00-AT/262558754225?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D3247e5f8a1ce41b99aedccad4689b68f%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D262558754225%26itm%3D262558754225%26pg%3D2481888&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Aa97f094c-bd57-11e9-8a9f-74dbd180440a%7Cparentrq%3A8821547e16c0a9e42e4f3f54fffc02ca%7Ciid%3A1 )
seems very well built, was easy to install, and definitely does help the vehicle stay cooler longer. It doesn't start to overheat now until the temp hits around 85 on the highway. I installed it this last weekend, with no issues. All the fittings lined right up, except for it being a little tight around the core support, which just needed to be adjusted with a hammer a bit. I have not heard anything positive about the champion line of radiators either.
Each time it overheats, it always cools back down when I turn on the heater full blast, even while I am still on the freeway, which seems to indicate a problem with airflow. I will update after installing a new condenser and the flowkooler pump. Also looking at replacing the thermostat with a high-flow robertshaw model.
www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/collections/hi-flow-water-pumps/products/1751-1999-2013-jeep-dodge-3-7l-4-7l-water-pump
@@martinbuilt Update: Since my last post, driving under normal and some off road conditions. The new radiator works extremely well. Also removed the old AC condenser. Definitely was a factor. It was warped and partially clogged. Been driving without it entirely, as a complete new AC system is on the way. No overheating in 100+ degree weather as long as it was under 2200 RPM's. At highway speeds over 75 MPH, there was still overheating, but not as significant as before. Pulled and inspected spark plugs and coils, none showed abnormal wear. It may be that at higher RPM's the stock water pump just simply does not rotate fast enough to keep up, with the 25% under drive pulley, while ambient temperatures are higher than 90F (average it has been in my area for weeks). Hoping the new Flowkooler at the end of the month will fix that.
Side note, when I had the cat replaced a few weeks ago, the mechanic who inspected it said there were multiple cylinders with slight misfire. Not enough to set off a CEL, but enough for his diag machine to notice. Immediately pulled my plugs and re-gapped all of them. None were far off of .040, factory recommended gap. I run OEM champion copper's. One factor may be that when I originally got the vehicle, I replaced all of the coil packs with new coil packs with lifetime warranty autozone models, not mopar, as the mopar coil packs were 3 times as expensive. I may have to go ahead and spend the extra money if the coil packs prove to be part of the issue.
I put vents in my hood to evacuate under hood air. With the WJ's unibody design there is no gap between a body and frame for air to escape and the 4.7 is really up under the cowl not to mention pretty much stuffed in there side to side. The biggest fan in the world will only pull a limited amount of air into the engine compartment through the radiator if the air already under the hood cannot easily escape. My coolant temp dropped from around 210 in summer to 195, even pulling a 4000 lb trailer though the Arizona mountains. The AC worked better also. The real tell was hot much hot air comes out them when stopped. With the engine hot and fan running I could not keep my hand over the hood vent, the air rushing out was way too hot. Even with the engine shut off when hot the amount of hot air escaping through the vents was amazing!
@@matthewirwin8721 Hi. Did you get the overheating figured out?
Nice job Martin...(as allways)
Thank you Dan, you and your family have a great Thanksgiving weekend.
I know the videos a few years old but the link isn’t showing anything but I want the super damper 😢
airram.com/product/ati-super-damper-harmonic-balancer-dodge-jeep-37l-47l-ho/
Where do you get replacements for push pins for bumper or grill?
I got these from Amazon
Universal Plastic Fender Clips,200 Pcs Push Bumper amzn.to/3eEYtLp
whats the part number for the Neiko Torx Set?
Fuck, how long did it take him to put everything back together? Clean shaven then bearded up. Lol
Do you have to but the pulley separate from the ati super damper
At the time of purchase you will pick the OEM size pulley or the underdrive pulley.
It is included you just pick one or the other..
I have never seen anyone this extra
So did your WJ not have the huge belt driven fan or hiw you get rid of it?
In 2001 the Grands came with a Hydraulic cooling fan driven by the power steering pump. I just got done converting it to an electric fan a couple of weeks ago.
I didn't see the link for the radiator removal. Do you have any videos on that or valve cover gasket replacement??
Sorry haven't got that video done yet. Here a video that would show you how to remove and replace the valve covers. Thanks for watching. ua-cam.com/video/URrQ9sMgLJs/v-deo.html
@@martinbuilt Thank you sir!
@@martinbuilt I don't see the link to the valve cover video
@@gfunk41 There you go...forgot that part.
This damper good for a 3.7? I'm looking for some power in my 2005 durango and there aren't many mods out there.
yes, this will work on the 3.7 engine as well. 👍
@@martinbuilt sweet. Thanks for the reply!
Will this damper fit a 2005 Dodge Durango with the 4.7??
yes it will
I got one from Nick as well. Installed it about a year ago.👍
That's awesome, I'm sure he appreciates it.
Hows ur review about it so far?? Harmonics redline vibrations???
Will this work in a 2004 jeep grand Cherokee 4.7 H.O
Yes it will 👍
I´m eager to see how much HP Martin´s wj put...come on Martin, please tell us! I´ve been following all your mods (just seeing your vids, not able to put them into mine yet, lol)
let me get the 08 camshafts installed and can tuned and then we'll see
What’s the horsepower gain with this upgrade ??
They claimed 10 horsepower.
Ok thanks
Ese damper Sele puede poner auna cherokee xj 1991
Is that a Fram oil filter?
That is a Baldwin B2. This is an oversize filter for the 4.7 My XJ uses 3 of them oil, trans, and power steering
@@martinbuilt XJ's don't have power steering filters..
@@seniorxj2931 LOL... It does if you add one. Didn't come with external transmission filters either. My power steering system holds 4 quarts.
@@martinbuilt,, do you have a link to these parts?
Are you still happy with the SuperDamper modification? Also, what kind of exhaust set up are you running? Your rig sounds tough man... I like it
Yes I am!
Running Doug Thorley headers, 3" exhaust, Magna Flow cat, and Flowmaster 70 or 50HD don't remember what muffler I had in there at the time.
Do you have an Instagram? I have some questions. Is that a 4.7HO? What tune or tuner/programmer works on the HO PCM? What mods aside from that grabber intake and pulley is done to yours in the video?
I do have a Instagram I have not been on it in years. Yes you can do a tune on a HO engine. Look into SCT programmers. Check out Air Ram Performance.
I have done HO cams, upgraded the fuel injectors, Doug Thorley Tri y headers with 3in exhaust Flowmaster and a MagnaFlow high-flow cat. Recently I also installed the new Mission Weapon X stage 2 coils. I've also installed the 08 intake manifold and a custom build 75 mm throttle body. I will be installing the 08 camshafts and then I'm going to do the tune using a SCT programmer.
martinbuilt Sup Martin, Flow here again, I've done the Tri Y's except I did a resonator delete along with a muffler delete cause I wanted it to sound a little on the loud side. Still have cats on the new wj overland I have now. And the torque snip just like the Laredo. I have the H.O engine I've been meaning to do the diy ram air intake you did but the more and more I watch I get more curious as to how much power you are making. (If you don't mind lol)
martinbuilt I have an 02 HO, currently stock except a Y-pipe back full 3” into a Borla muffler. You said in another vid that the 08/09 intake mani is better than even the 02? The 08/09 cans are a direct bolt in to the 99-04 4.7? What fuel injectors did you use? In this vid were you floored during the pulls? I will also be looking for that 454 throttle body, my local junkyard has hundreds of the GM trucks there. And, forgive me for asking, are you the same Martin that built/build the Martin Saine trannys? Any specific model of programmer for the SCT programmer?
No I am not that Martin. Yes the 08 plus camshafts are a direct bolt in for the 99 through 07 4.7. Yes I was floored during those pulls. I have the SCT 3200 programmer. I am running the Denso 12582704 injectors. They are 264 CC I believe that comes out to right at 25 lb.
6.32" or 7.07" super damper?
It's hard to measure on the engine but it seams to be just over 6"
Will this damper work on a 4.0?
No, it will not. 🙁
this one will but check out that price. 😲
www.newcomerracing.com/store/p23/Jeep_AMC_4.0_4.2_Stroker_%2887-06%29_Direct_Replacement_ATI_SFI_Approved_Harmonic_Six_Rib_Serpentine_Balancer_Kit.html
@@martinbuilt Figured as much. If Im looking into stroking a 4.0, should I look into a stronger damper to go with the crankshaft upgrade or is that unnecessary?
Edit: just saw your second reply with the super damper link. These prices are too damn high, man!
.....but look at that hardware........
@@SalFettucini
definitely, if you are building a performance engine. The Super Damper is insurance for the bottom end of that engine.
You should be selling these tools you make :)
I do sell a Valve spring Compressor for the 3.7 and 4.7
What is the benefit
Why didn't the DC engineers run the accessories 25% slower?
If anything I would want the waterpump to run faster when I'm crawling rocks when its hot outside!
Nice video but did he just grow a beard from frame to frame lol
maybe 😄 I've given up, the bread is staying now.
Have computer tuned yet?
I've got the SCT tuner bought and I will be getting it tuned as soon as I get the 08 camshafts installed
didn't recognize you without the beard
yeah my daughter likes it, I think it's here to stay.
nice video, but i think you meant 85.5 CM (not inches) for the shorter Continental Serpentine belt
I meant inches. Those belts are longer then they look.
It is total length/circumference. Yes I am replying to a comment from 4 years ago (2019)
Anybody know of someone that sells something close to this they don't sell it anymor
If I had $400 I'd be throwing a different motor in it wouldn't be doing the work myself that's for sure
I can't find the parts
airram.com/product.php?categoryid=18&productid=1386
Did you say this wont work on an h.o engine?
No this WILL work on a HO engine
@@martinbuilt ok sweet. How did you get in contact with air ram? Ive been emailing and I get no response
@@albertogonzalez5564 you can go directly to his website and simply order the ATI damper. If you have any problems with that let me know I'll get a hold of Nick
@@martinbuilt that part is ordered and delivered. My question for nick was for the port and polished heads and a few other items
@@albertogonzalez5564 Give him a call before 11:00 am Eastern time.
If it's a standard, just put it in gear.
Who has $400 to throw away on a pulley that's crazy
It's not $400 for a pulley. It's $400 for the best HARMONIC BALANCER made. That is what is keeping the engine from flying apart. The pulley simply bolts to the Super Damper.
Plus money to hp gains is a lot better than headers. Good stainless headers will run $1,000+ and give about the same gain. So why not go cheaper and have a happier rotating assembly
So in the time it took you to putit ba k together and fire itup you grew a beard?
yep..work got in the way.
$395.55 Wow
but worth it
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