One other thing that works is to take another artists technique, don't go with a true black for the basic dying. Go for a very dark grey to start with, you can go full black with the background, but it's the same sort of thing as with painting, you can't shade black, but you can use a black shade to make the rest of it look black. Another is a light, rough weathering of the item with a light pass of sandpaper over the top to lighten it. Also, there can be some really interesting things that can be done stepping away from the basic tooling options, going with different finishes can create some interesting things that can shift with the light. I've seen a couple where it looks a lot like painting with different ones for patterns and designs, and, while not with leather work, a friend of mine as an art project in college did entire paintings using only different gloss/flat levels with the same paint color that were fascinating to look at due to the interactions of light with it
I really can't stand carving and having a customer just wanting it black. It's like a slap to the face. I've been talking people into a bit of color instead. The neutral antique with the angelous paint. Trying this really opened up a realm of possibilities I didn't know existed
I did a thigh pouch a while back with some figure carving on the cover flap. I put a resist on it, made a pewter antique, and then washed off as much of it from the black surface. The pewter antique was very visible. It did not make the rest of the project glittery, which can happen with the metallics. As a side note, the pearlescent angelus paints coat the top grain more evenly with metalics. This changes the end color a lot more, but create some very striking effects.
A small request: if youre going to show us 3 separate techniques, please show them on different pieces, or on different sections of the same piece, so we can see each by themselves. I realize that's a pain with tooling, but having these processed stacked instead of side by side means it's really hard to tell if any one technique is right for a project. Thanks for the great work and keep making awesome videos!
I've used dry brushing on several leather projects and really like the results. It worked great on my daughter's scripture case I made last year. Black stain with Citadel Charbelcher, also used white in spots. Turned out great, and even with daily use, it has not worn off.
I'm going to a class on making a padfolio soon, and have been thinking about what I was going to put on the cover. This gave me some great ideas to start from.
This was a great video. I don’t see a lot tooled black excepted in law enforcement. I really like how your piece turned out. Heck, I could even see doing some hints of a lighter color or a dry brush. Awesome man thanks!
I also hate dying a project black. I once did a sheath for a 4 foot sword for a fence-faire. I tooled a full length oak leaf pattern that looked terrific, then all black. It sucked. I should have gone with a simpler pattern and tooled deeper.
i disagree on the bellyaching on black dye. While there are some projects that black dye can just wash out the detail, Ive done many a tooling where the tooled design was bold enough to still carry the image through the black. A super detailed woodland scene with ducks flying ? Absolutely not. But something like a monogram or logo looks striking if the leather is polished decently. Eh, just my 2 cents, though
I wasn’t clear on why half of it had a black background and half red was that just to show us that type of contrast? And what did you use for that cause it was pretty glossy before you put any kind of gloss topcoat on it? And what was the background stamp that you used?
Correct, the red was added for contrast, the black and red dye were both Fiebing's ProDye. here is the link to the backgrounder: www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/matting-stamping-tool-1?variant=40943159804044
I can’t see spending all my time on a project getting it ready for tooling just to paint the whole thing black. Then spend more of my time to trying to undo the black background paint so I can see the leaf that was perfectly fine before I painted it black. Now I have to spend more of my time to try to highlight the black leaf so that I can see it again. This whole thing is a waste of good time and materials. If I ever get a client that wants this, I will be very happy to send them to Daniel Reese. Then I can spend my time doing a beautiful project that I can enjoy! Sorry Daniel your project gets a very big “NO GO” from me.
One other thing that works is to take another artists technique, don't go with a true black for the basic dying. Go for a very dark grey to start with, you can go full black with the background, but it's the same sort of thing as with painting, you can't shade black, but you can use a black shade to make the rest of it look black.
Another is a light, rough weathering of the item with a light pass of sandpaper over the top to lighten it.
Also, there can be some really interesting things that can be done stepping away from the basic tooling options, going with different finishes can create some interesting things that can shift with the light. I've seen a couple where it looks a lot like painting with different ones for patterns and designs, and, while not with leather work, a friend of mine as an art project in college did entire paintings using only different gloss/flat levels with the same paint color that were fascinating to look at due to the interactions of light with it
I really can't stand carving and having a customer just wanting it black. It's like a slap to the face. I've been talking people into a bit of color instead. The neutral antique with the angelous paint. Trying this really opened up a realm of possibilities I didn't know existed
I did a thigh pouch a while back with some figure carving on the cover flap. I put a resist on it, made a pewter antique, and then washed off as much of it from the black surface. The pewter antique was very visible. It did not make the rest of the project glittery, which can happen with the metallics. As a side note, the pearlescent angelus paints coat the top grain more evenly with metalics. This changes the end color a lot more, but create some very striking effects.
A small request: if youre going to show us 3 separate techniques, please show them on different pieces, or on different sections of the same piece, so we can see each by themselves. I realize that's a pain with tooling, but having these processed stacked instead of side by side means it's really hard to tell if any one technique is right for a project.
Thanks for the great work and keep making awesome videos!
I'm going to try them all!
Neutral antique with a metallic paint mixed in.
Could you use a mica powder mixed with the neutral antique?
@@theartsypixie2771 I can’t say I’ve tried but maybe.
I’ve used white paint on black to bring out basket weave and lettering.
I've used dry brushing on several leather projects and really like the results. It worked great on my daughter's scripture case I made last year. Black stain with Citadel Charbelcher, also used white in spots. Turned out great, and even with daily use, it has not worn off.
I'm going to a class on making a padfolio soon, and have been thinking about what I was going to put on the cover. This gave me some great ideas to start from.
OLD Leather Smith here, great job Daniel, I personally use some resoline, it seems 2 work 4 me . GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️🥎🙃
This was a great video. I don’t see a lot tooled black excepted in law enforcement. I really like how your piece turned out. Heck, I could even see doing some hints of a lighter color or a dry brush.
Awesome man thanks!
I have two small gift projects which this Black on Black will be great for. Excellent timing with this video. Thanks for sharing.
I also hate dying a project black. I once did a sheath for a 4 foot sword for a fence-faire. I tooled a full length oak leaf pattern that looked terrific, then all black. It sucked. I should have gone with a simpler pattern and tooled deeper.
Tbh, I'll probably never do a black/black project, it's just not my cup of tea. However, learning something new doesn't hurt, though... 👍🏻
Have you tried to combine metallic pewter with a high gloss finish?
Would a neutral antique with a lighter color mixed in work?
That's what I've been talking my customers, that want black in to.
i disagree on the bellyaching on black dye. While there are some projects that black dye can just wash out the detail, Ive done many a tooling where the tooled design was bold enough to still carry the image through the black. A super detailed woodland scene with ducks flying ? Absolutely not. But something like a monogram or logo looks striking if the leather is polished decently. Eh, just my 2 cents, though
Great job
Which tools did you use to carve and do the drawing please
I wasn’t clear on why half of it had a black background and half red was that just to show us that type of contrast? And what did you use for that cause it was pretty glossy before you put any kind of gloss topcoat on it? And what was the background stamp that you used?
Correct, the red was added for contrast, the black and red dye were both Fiebing's ProDye. here is the link to the backgrounder: www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/matting-stamping-tool-1?variant=40943159804044
Where can I get these tools?
I can’t see spending all my time on a project getting it ready for tooling just to paint the whole thing black. Then spend more of my time to trying to undo the black background paint so I can see the leaf that was perfectly fine before I painted it black. Now I have to spend more of my time to try to highlight the black leaf so that I can see it again. This whole thing is a waste of good time and materials. If I ever get a client that wants this, I will be very happy to send them to Daniel Reese. Then I can spend my time doing a beautiful project that I can enjoy! Sorry Daniel your project gets a very big “NO GO” from me.