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Ceramic or Semi Metallic Brake Pads on Your Vehicle?
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2018
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When installing friction on a vehicle, it is important to decide what type of material you are going to use. The two most common friction types are ceramic and semi-metallic. Consider the following questions when deciding which friction material to go with.
• What was the original equipment on the vehicle?
• What type of vehicle is this going on?
• What is the vehicle used for?
• What is the driver's driving style?
• What features and benefits are most important?
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In this video, we discuss how to determine what type of brake pads were on the vehicle you are working on. We also discuss how to determine what type of material to put on your vehicle.
What Friction was on Your Vehicle?
When doing a brake job, take a look at the surface of the rotor. This will tell you what type of friction was on the vehicle.
If there is a lip on the edge of the rotor and/or the rotor surface has a bumpy surface, that tells you that semi-metallic pads were on the vehicle.
If there is a layer of friction material on the surface of the rotor, that tells you that ceramic pads were on the vehicle.
Semi-Metallic Friction
This formula is best for larger trucks, vehicles used for towing and specialty vehicles. This pad is great for drivers who use their vehicle for situations beyond every day driving. It is a great formula for drivers looking for strong pedal feel, great stopping power and a solid performance.
Ceramic Friction
Ceramic is the most common material in the marketplace today. The biggest strength of ceramic is it provides a clean, noise-free, and low-dust operation. This formula is best used for everyday drivers looking for premium braking performance.
I switched to Semi-Metalic because I haul a lot of weight, my mother-in-law often rides in the backseat...too often.
WHOA!!!!!!
🤣🤣🤣
Savage level 99999 😂💥
lololololol
😂😂😂
I tried Ceramics thinking to upgrade to a more advanced system upgrade on my T/A, took way too long to Stop meaning stopping distance was lengthened, not good, and slid passed Stop Signs that put the fear of impending tragedy in me. Quickly switched back to Metallic. One thing I can state with confidence, you do not need to turn your rotors when running Metallic Pads unless they are badly warped as the Met Pads wear the rotors down naturally and in light cases of warping the everyday driving will smooth them back out. Slotted Disc Rotors did make a difference. though.
This video did not explain anything about the differences between the two types of brake pads
Semi metallic transfers more heat onto the rotors and wares them out faster but semi metallic have better stopping power. Ceramic pads do not have the same stopping power but they are solid for every day use and don't ware down your rotors that fast.
Apparently from posts online the element 3 has slightly less stopping power during the cold winter then Akibono ceramic pads but that's rabble on the net so..
Agreed, complete waste of time. There was zero useful information here
In 1999 I bought the all-new Chevy Suburban. The previous gen Suburban was notorious for eating front pads in a hurry. For the new model GM upsized the rotors and went to ceramic pads. What a huge difference! The original pads went over 100,000 miles, and the vehicle was used as a work truck for the majority of it's life; hauling, a little towing, and trucking around a family of 5. There was still some life in the pads when they were finally changed. As a side benefit there was never any brake dust on my wheels. I'm a believer in ceramics. Organic pads are for keeping mechanics in business with frequent brake jobs, semi-metallic have their place, but I don't like the extra noise and faster wear to the rotors. I think ceramics more than pay for their extra cost in their longevity and thus fewer brake jobs.
Old collapsed brake hoses cause premature brake pad life. Slotted & cross drilled rotors will help braking a great deal dissipating heat, brake material and gases between the pads and rotor which causes brake fade.
The problem with the previous generation (88-98) Chevys and GMCs wasn't the semi-metallic pads up front but the proportioning to the rear was inadequate, leaving the fronts to do almost all the work, wearing them out prematurely. There was a TSB about upgrading the proportioning valve in order to get better braking distribution.
I just made the switch to ceramics, my Honda S2000 eat front brake pad as well I’m hoping to get way more miles on them that like 20k like the last front brakes
I once tried ceramic pads on my GMC Yukon Denali, but they were very prone to developing squeaking noise. I switched over to semi metallic and those seem to perform better, and are super quiet at all times.
Do you know what brand they were? My car is no where near like yours but I have a Honda civic coupe 08 I’m trynna soup it up and put good performance brake pads and rotors but I’m sooo lost
@@killedbyshadows1500 I am using the Wagner Brake SevereDuty SX975 Disc Brake Pad Set. They are wonderful. The braking feels great, super quiet, and the pads seem to last forever. The only very minor downside is that they tend to put orange brake dust on the wheels over time. These pads are designed for severe/performance use.
i wonder if thats the noice that my car does.....is has brand new rotors and pads...but this one are semi metallic and i think before it has ceramic quiet......that could be the problem?
Akebono ceramics are said to be quiet brake pads.
I am going with Akebono ceramic brake pads, as per Scotty. I don't have the weight. I want performance for my passenger use only Explorer Scout, and no brake dust on the alloy wheels.
Ceramica are more quiet than semi Metallics. If your brakes were squealing with ceramics, you probably didn't install brake grease, bed in the pad, or were using cheap ceramics that don't have sticky material between anti squeal shim and pad backing plate.
Aside from looking at the rotor to see if ceramic or semi-metallic pads had been used, an easy way is to take a magnet to the brake pad braking surface. If it sticks it's a semi-metallic pad.
What if it has steel frame?
Most disc brake pad frames are steel. Place the magnet on the friction material part to determine if they are semi metallic (assuming the brakes are not worn down to the backing frame.)
That would only tell you that the metal is ferrous, not all metal is, in fact metals used in brake pads would be softer ones that are likely to be non ferrous
Why did he want performance rotors then
Semi metallic are better in cold climates also. For this reason. I use semi metallic. And in the north your brake rotors will rust to scrap before those pads will wear them.
Ceramics will wear out before destroying the rotors. In that way you will get a longer life span on the more expensive rotors. I'd rather replace the brake pads than my high performance zimmermann rotors
after 3 years sir, how are your rotors still?
This is a good point you've made.
Jeah, inform us after 3 years, how things are going?!
We demand answers
4 years later and we're still waiting to hear from you.
i didnt run this thru audacity but theirs a really high pitch, like 14khz 15khz sound the whole video, u can set a filter on most editing software thatll filter out anything within the frequency u set
I switched to ceramic pads on my FJ Cruiser and started getting a warped rotor feeling when I brake and some brake fade. I’m putting new rotors on and switching back to OEM pads. I do tow a small travel trailer and had no problems until I switched to ceramic pads.
Raybestos EHT’s - cross between semi metallic & ceramic, best pads I’ve bought,
Billy Jack I was considering purchasing the Raybestos EHT's, how is there initial bite and resistence to heat fade?
@@vanquishstorm3806 they have been very good, great stopping and no problems with brake fade, although they are on a GMC 1500
@@billyjack7421 Awesome, thanks for the reply. I purchased them and looking foward to the install.
I’ve always been told that ceramic was the best regardless and that semi metallic and metallic were old technology and should only be used if the vehicle came with them on. I’m a professional mechanic and that’s what all the guys in my shop say. As well as what I learned in school. So just my opinion I say stick with ceramic unless you have an old car that came with something else. Also make sure the rotors are rated for the pad material you can’t use rotors that can only withstand semi metallic pads then put ceramic on them.
Im also a mechanic and ceramic is not always the best. It is most of the time, but like this guy says if you’re towing alot u should definitely go with semi mets. All the guys in my shop agree with that too, although what all the techs think isn’t necessary correct
Fantastic explanation. Thanks
Thank you. I was on the fence and this helped.
I have a 2011 toyota camry think im going to upgrade to semi metallic pads. Dont like how ceramics feel
It doesn't matter how you feel, it matters how your Camry feels.... I thought you were better than this Mr. Chainsaw.
Yeah I'm from California. What's pretty popular around here are organic vegan brake pads. Not my cup of tea, but what are ya going to do?
Are ceramic bad for rotors with internal bearings?
nice.thank you
i wonder if thats the noice that my car does.....is has brand new rotors and pads...but this one are semi metallic and i think before it has ceramic quiet......that could be the problem?
When should ceramic pads be used ?
ceramic if youre not hauling heavy loads
If you want your wheels to look cleaner, longer. That's really the only benefit, other than the dust isn't as bad for the environment, which is the sole reason they were developed in the first place.
Semi metallic gives u that jaguar bite.
My rotors get grooved up and starts squealing and pulsing while braking. I've been using semi mettalic. It's on a Small SUV that I only drive about 3,000 miles per year. After about 3 years there are groves and the squealing starts. Would ceramic be a good choice for me and last longer? Thanks
Two differences issues. Pulsing means they're a little warped from heat buildup while braking. Do you do a lot of heavy braking? If so, start braking sooner. As far as noise, ceramic solves that.
Semi Metallic dust a lot, and this dust causes some of the squeal. try power washing the brakes, or get undercoat wash, the noise should be gone afterwards. the groves are normal. pulsing while braking is not. when putting on new brake rotors and pads, you need to measure the rotor run out. only when it is under 2/1000, your brakes will be properly installed, and not wobble. "rotor warp" is an internet myth. rotor run out is causing the issue. will need to fix the run out issue and install new rotors/pads to fix
@criticaljim1 Well said👍You beat me to it lol. If you don't have a dial indicator, you cannot install brake rotors correctly.
As mentioned above, .002" is usually the standard amount of acceptable run out. Which is also usually the closest tolerance that hubs and rotors can be manufactured to. So, say you don't index your rotor to the hub in order to cancel out the combined runout from the hub and the rotor, if you put it on and by chance, the tolerances get stacked, say .002" from the hub and .002" from the rotor, you'll have .004" total runout, which is too much and out of spec, you will get pulsating brakes eventually, because the pads are always rubbing slightly, even when you're not pressing the brake pedal, so with every revolution the high spot (lateral runout on the rotor) is being built up more and more with material transfer from the pad, it has very little to do with heat build up causing warpage, 99.9% of the time pulsating brakes are caused by thickness variation due to excessive lateral runout upon installation. In the video, he even mentions that they got the new rotors installed at .001" lateral runout when they put them on. It is industry standard to measure it, every time, without exception. If a person just slaps rotors on all willy-nilly like, they are a hack and I wouldn not trust them near my stuff. So if you're taking your car somewhere to have brakes put on and they say you need new rotors also, ask them if they check lateral runout when installing rotors, if they don't know what you're talking about, politely decline and go somewhere else as they are not a real mechanic.
I use ceramic on a Lexus rx350 and all my rotor sets get warped… might have to change and try slotted rotors and see how that goes.
I drive a Dodge Caravan soccer mom van but do a lot of mountain driving. I have Raybestos rotors with the EHT pads. The braking is awful. Would it be better to use semi-metallic pads?
Yes
Yes. Way better. Dont fall for the hype of ceramic. Good for the track maybe.
Did he just say that the O.E.M. pads might not be the right one that came on the vehicle??? I dislike auto engineers to, but I feel like STOPPING! is pretty high on the list, plus I can confirm that some independent HVAC/Plumbers have no regard to towing capacity or curb weight when forcing a half ton tool chest in the back of their trucks.
He is correct. The better choice for an F150 that tows or hauls heavy would be a semi metallic pad even though the OEM pad is ceramic. You don't need to be an engineer to know for a fact that semi metallics are better for brake fade caused by extended heavy use from the extra weight.
By how much differences between Ceramic vs semimetal pads in stopping?
10% -20 % difference? As for distances
@Val Bigfish which one
There is no difference in stopping distance as they both are capable of locking up the wheels if you press the pedal hard enough, stopping distance is a function of tire traction (how much pressure you can hold before locking up, and your reaction time in applying the required pressure) As I've said, either type of pad has the ability to grip the rotors beyond the threshold of tire traction. Ceramics just don't "bite" as good when cold, requiring more pedal pressure than you were used to in order to achieve the same clamping force on the rotor, sometimes leading to a false impression that it takes longer to stop. Ceramics also produce white dust instead of brown and black, leading to the false impression that your wheels stay cleaner longer, the pad dust is still there, you just can't see it as much, and besides slightly less rotor wear, the primary claim to fame with ceramics is cleaner wheels. If you don't mind dirtier looking wheels or cleaning your wheels a little more often, semi-metallic is the way to go because they do bite the rotor a little better.
The difference is the life of Bambi's mom. #SquirrelsLivesMatter
@@johnny0454 Many cold ceramic pads are unable to lock up the wheels on many cars...
@@johnny0454 the real difference you didn't mention is heat tolerances and brake fade. The semi metallics are far superior in this sense and thus better for high performance vehicles or heavy vehicles such as trucks that tow or haul heavy loads
Lol he doesn't haul anything, and it's too clean to be a work truck, he doesn't need new brakes he needs a Prius XD
That Raybestos intro made me think of the SAW movies
my dad tried ceramics once and said never again. they take way too long to stop the car, he came home from testing the brakes, took them off to return them and went and bought the regular semi metallic
Witch one last longer for ever day using car?
ceramic
Semi-metallic chew up rotors. Ceramic less so.
Not true. Actually completely backwards.
@Plutonius X Umm, no. Ceramics don't wear the rotor as much, the ceramic compounds are smoother (less grainy) That's why ceramics don't "bite" as much, requiring more pedal pressure to get the same clamping force on the rotor. Ceramics were not originally developed for performance in any way. Although, now they have performance oriented versions, the sole reason they were developed is because the dust they produce is supposed to be better for the environment. The original ceramic compounds had copper in them (still not as hard as the steel rotors) in order to get them to bite better. However, most companies are now producing copper-free ceramic compounds because of the pressure from environmentalists, like the EPA, WHO, the UN, etc. I believe the copper-ceramic versions are even outlawed in some locations for the same reasons they are trying to phase out semi-metallic pads. If you think about how many millions of tons of brake dust is being produced all over the world every day, it adds up to a significant amount of unhealthy pollution on a global scale.
HOW COME YOU MADE THAT SO SIMPLE AND HOW COME THE SHOP GUY did not? I will get SEMI. I was just about to buy -Rami's
Lol I love that it feels like hes making fun of the f150 owner a little bit. “Doesnt even have a hitch, only used as a passenger vehicle”. Mall crawler lol
i have heard you chew up your rotors faster with ceramic pads because the harder then the steel.
Some mechanics try to sell rotors on every job. I usually use ceramics because on every car I owned you could get atleast 2 pad changes before I needed to replace the rotors. But in most cases you can get a 2nd change in with semi metallic just make sure the rotors are thick enough.
That’s a big crap of what you say. There is no Ceramic pad. It’s just a name. Mostly made of inorganic ceramic, copper, and other soft materials performing actually smooth on the disk. So, more economy disk and pads, no noises, initial bite been corrected by Akebono brand, it actually stop faster and don’t read unprofessional people thinking that semi metallic stop faster. The downside of them is that when you have a race car and you do crazy things, or you have a heavy load car, ceramics can brake! So strictly speaking ceramic pads outperform semi metallic 100%. Ceramic pads are semi-ceramic and semi metallic are metal with organic materials like banana 🍌
The opposite is true, semi-metallic pads will wear the rotor faster than ceramic pads. The ceramics are smoother and so they "bite" or grip the rotor less than semi-metallic pads which is why they require more pedal pressure to get an equal amount of clamping force on the rotor.
@@ioannisstavrou2677 are you drunk?
O.E.M. Parts.
hybrid pads are best for these rotors!!!! raybestos specs hybrid for their "per" type rotors!!!
It doesn't matter... go for the ceramics for quiet stopping. because you should never replace only brake pads as they need a new rotor to work properly.. I've never only replace pads.
money waster
No explantion or anything useful as to which pads to choose
I’m from baghdad, iraq the best pads is ceramic ❤️🥀
And the best T-Shirt is Kevlar
Why?
@@criticaljim1 dude I literally busted out laughing at that one 🤣🤣🤣
1.- Brakes transform kinetic energy into thermal energy.
2.- That heat needs to be conducted and dissipated.
3.- All ceramic materials have a low thermal conductivity.
1+2+3 = I bought semi-metallic pads.
Video was a farce.
Only one thing I agree with . . . . Brakes wear.
Ceramic brakes have been in use since late 90's.Ceramic brake pads tend to heat up quicker for more bite and better stopping but will fade more when over heated.
Some important specifically come with metallic brake pads and will not have a ceramic option.
Heavy duty or service service pads are avalible from most replacement or parts companies such as police, towing or commercial use.
Slotted,drilled rotors are over rated on stock vehicles.People install them on a stock brake system hoping to stop on a dime . . . . All they did is spend the dime.They forget the are still riding around in 19 and 20 inch wheels.
Heavy duty brake pads ARE semi metallic. Commercial vehicles NEVER use ceramic period. Ask any truck driver. This guy is an auto mechanic.
This comment is a joke. Bigger wheels = bigger tires and bigger brakes = better stopping.
You buy a truck for a ride vehicle...that's stupid..just get a Corolla
You buy a truck for the platform: rear wheel drive, body on frame, solid rear axle toughness, and the V8 performance and torque, in addition to the ground clearance and 4 wheel drive capability. Here in Montana, you pretty much can't do anything with a little car for 4-6 months out of the year, if you're going to go hunting especially, or even drive the kids to and from school or yourself to work, you have to be able to drive through 2-3 feet of snow sometimes. So even though I rarely haul or tow anything with my own truck, other than my son's dirtbike occasionally, I find great utility in owning mine as a daily driver. The ground clearance and 4x4 help tremendously for camping and fishing in the mountains, even in the summer time (sometimes you just want to go 4 wheeling and see what you can get up lol) Also, you can't drift a front wheel drive car on dry pavement or in the snow, and what fun is that lol. My 98 Chevy is totally stock and has 250,000 miles on it, sees redline almost every day, and still runs like a top with the original engine, which also by the way sees cold starts in the negative 30-40 degrees Fahrenheit every year. Considering I only paid $1700 for it over 10 yrs ago and that it gets 18 mpg @80 mph along with all the utility mentioned above, I'd say my truck was a worthwhile investment just for the toughness of it alone, relative to a cheaply built little car, not to mention the safety of being in a big, heavy, solid vehicle. I feel like my children are safer in a truck in the event that some idiot plows into us because they don't know how to drive. Additionally, I can still go 120 mph just fine if I want to lol.
Corolla's are way overpriced for what they are, especially considering their lack of utility and that all you can do with one is haul people around, and even then, only in decent weather and definitely not on the dirt roads in the mountains, even when it is dry out. We just got 10 inches of snow yesterday in town, in the valley, and a whole lot more anywhere outside of town. Some towns are 100 miles apart in Montana and if you get stuck, you're dead. A Corolla,? yeah.... no thanks, I wouldn't spend money on one around here, and the same probably for most of the northern states. Corollas and similar are worthless when our roads are snow-covered and icy for 4-6 months out of the year. Even if you could get it out of the driveway, you're definitely not getting up an icy hill lol, and Montana doesn't use salt on their roads (a very good thing as our vehicles actually last) It's not uncommon to see vehicles around here that are 20, 30, 40, or more years old with little (just surface rust,) to no rust on them 👍 A 4x4 truck for a daily makes perfect sense in a lot of places. I know they make two wheel drive trucks, but you very rarely see one around here, a truck is synonymous with 4x4 and ground clearance, that's why you get one. Not to mention the stigma: around here, men drive trucks and little girls drive cars, that's just how it is lol.
Always replace rotors and pads and bleed the brakes when you do a brake job. I do my own and can school these so called pros.
Lmao what? Smh
metallic will destroy your rotor