Have you lowered or raised the rear of your bike? How did it go and what kit did you use? Or did you use your own solution? How much drop did you get? Leave a comment and let me know!
I went with the RWD mono shock bike has a fender gap like the Dyna Softails. Way better for turning and not scrapping pegs on twisty roads. I heard lowering kits comprimise comfort making the ride more hard and rough.
Hey @@adminadmin9997 - that looks like a nice kit! Did you get about 2" of lift? For this lowering kit the comfort seems fine - all of the original preload and spring rate are unaffected, but the clearance reduction is definitely noticeable (but also to be expected).
Great vidio,.I installed the Kodlin kit about 2yrs ago on my 18 Fatbob 114, Just a TIP I used 2 rachet straps one on each side of the spring , they worked out just great. Kodin lowered the bike about 1inch, all though I did have to turn up the shock adjuster about 2 more numbers. Other than an occasionally kick stand drage on a speed bump it's worked out fine
Love your vids Ron, been watching all your vids, always good quality. Cheers from Australia mate 👍used snatch straps to compress my spring, was a bit fun.
Hey mate - thanks so much! I really appreciate the encouragement. Did you have any problems with the straps slipping on the coils? Let me know if I can send you a sticker - send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Great instructional video! I might as well remove the stock M8 Softail shock spring and replace it with a lighter rate spring to match my 150 lb body weight. The stock shock pounds my back so bad I'm in pain for days after I go for a short ride.
Just installed the lower kit in ny '20 FXST a few days ago, love the way the bike sits now. Interestingly, it also rides better. Feels more stable and bumps feel softer. Not sure how that works and wasnt something I expected, but its also a welcome change. I will note that I lost a bit of lean angle before scraping parts, BUT I also rip my bike around corners a lot faster and lean more than most other HD riders. Unless you like to take turns aggressively, I suspect you probably won't dven notice you loss of some lean angle. Even so, I'll take that negative for all the other positives.
Thanks Ron, another great video. The one issue that stopped me getting the lowering kit is that the jack I have just about fits under the standard bike so it would have increased the price as I'd need a new lifting jack. One thing to point out is to make sure you can get the bike back off the jack once the work is done 👍
Hey Orange Manstan - you are correct about the Jack clearance. In my case, I roll the bike up onto a couple of wooden slats to give the frame the extra clearance. Thanks for the feedback and the kind words!
Am going up an inch, prefer ground clearance for better cornering and ride height/travel for passenger comfort. The extra inch rise will provide enough sag to sit the bike seated at the height it sits un seated. Low Rider S has similar length shock to Street bobs but with a remote adjuster, you can see the mount for it on the bracket goes over the rear of the shock on the bob. On later 22 Low rider s they opted to fit the heritage/fatbob shock as inch longer travel. Will be buying a new used fat bob shock removing the black knob and fitting that one as cannot see the point of a jackup kit with no gained extra travel. A tip for yourself, amazon el cheapo ratchet straps less then $10, some leather garden gloves and some old rags, strap and rachet the springs, straps protect springs rags protect springs body from ratchet mechanisms. There's vids out there of people using them, its ballsy but it works sweet ; ) used them when changed out the stock shock for the longer MG Stelvio adventure version and the soggy spring for a rated to my weight version spring on my Moto Guzzi Griso.
Thanks for sharing all that info! Yeah, the ratchet strap technique would be a little nerve-racking but not out of the question. I like the way you’re planning to do that shock swap. Let me know how it goes!
I think after seeing this that dropping the fender instead of the rear end will be the way I go. I want a tighter fender but without losing cornering clearance.
Hey Bryan - that’s a good idea. Let me know if you end up giving it a try. I suppose the existing rear fender struts could be retained and the fender re-drilled, or a new fender with the mounting holes in different locations, could be used.
Two questions. 1. Why did you want to lower the rear? 2. Is there any issue, safety or otherwise, having the rear lowered and not the front? Doesn't seem like a good idea.
Hey jimbert50 - for me it’s just personal preference. I’ve always thought that rear fender was much higher above the tire than I preferred. I haven’t noticed any handling issues at all - highway or otherwise - aside from dragging everything like I mentioned.
Hehehehe!!! My 2 cents Mine dropped more than 1.5” , and yours will too my friend!!! First of all let me ask you a couple of questions, one rhetoric and other logicals . 1- Did you lock well enough the big nut that came STOCK in the threaded shock shaft against the KODLIN screwing head ? when you installed the KODLIN HEAD WITH BLUE LOCTITE ??? 😉 I know you didn’t because you can’t, the KODLIN HEAD comes with a lip that doesn’t allow you to do that. Right? Question #2. Then why did you leave the big stock nut installed in the shock threaded shaft? By now I know you already realized what I am talking about!!! Mine: I took off the stock nut and screwed all the way down the KODLIN HEAD …..it dropped more than 1.5”. Great channel my friend, I have learned a lot from you. God bless you and keep you!
Hey ALABANZA Y ADORACIÓN CRISTIANA - you're correct on #1...the lip prevents snugging the jam nut without a strangely offset wrench or some other gymnastics. I ran the jam nut all the way down and snugged it as well as I could. I don't suspect there will be any problems...hope not! #2...now that's an idea worth trying. I may just have to give that a shot. Any problems with fender contact, and what preload setting do you use? Thanks for sharing that!
Actually, you can tighten the locknut, I do it all the time. When using our tool, you simply compress the spring until you can get a better angle on the nut. You can also use a thin wrench and get to it through the springs after you release the tension. Nut just needs to be snugged up. Agreed, the lip does make it challenging but not impossible. We do not recommend removing the lock nut! Liabilities...Like the video by the way. Thanks, James
As long as it is small enough to fit that coil spring and also doesn’t contact the shock inside the coil spring. Let me know if you find one that works!
Hello there again Ron .How are you doing? This time if it’s possible I need you to guide me to a good tutorial video of how to connect in my softail standard 2022 a harley electrical connection harness 69201599a. I am planning to install the mighty mite fan in the accessory plug , but it needs to be installed and converted from scratch. I will always appreciate your help my friend. 👍👍👍
Hey there! I'm not sure if this will help, but I have a video on how I used the accessory plug: for my fog light ua-cam.com/video/B9z5nHKgv98/v-deo.html Let me know it goes!
I'vs installed one of these (Müler) on my previous streetbob, after 4000km my suspension was dead. Better ad few buck and buy a real adjustable shock..
How are you doing Ron? I have a technical question for you. I have a softail standard 2022 , I kept the stock air filter but I took off the mufflers and put a couple of shortys slip ons. Do I need to tune the bike for that? I also added a couple of mods that I learned from you, the transmission top cover vent and the air filter breathers I put them outside.., and they work perfect. But the main issue is the need of a running or not because of the shortys slip ons . Thank you in advance as always 👍
Howdy! Glad to hear that the mods went well for you. Technically any change that affects airflow into or out of the engine will change fuel demands. I’d expect the slip ons to lower the back pressure a bit. However, it probably wouldn’t be a drastic change. I’d check with the company to see if they recommend tuning. Let me know what you learn and decide.
@@RonsWorkshop Actually I did the two valves decompression mod at the same time (the one on the transmission top cover and the one in the dipstick) in the dipstick I applied the same logic that the FUELING DIPSTICK did , I separated the two parts, drilled the four 1/8” holes at the lower part, then I put an sponge inside the two parts before gluing them with gray Permatex , I used a 5/16” bleeding screw cut the tip and tapped the very center top of the dipstick head , screwed it there with red loctite and from inside I filled the head with Jd weld making to keep the hole open using a bbq stick (lol). Then started the same logic with the transmission cover mod …. On the dipstick I installed a one way valve also and at the end a breather filter. I guess with the two same purpose mod at the same time , I was gonna lower also 50% the probabilities of oil spills or so, both of them are doing the same but with less stress. And another thing about the slip ons, I both the lollipops that those guys of DK customs sell, and installed them in the slip ons and I think I gain back some of the back pressure. I should have send you Ron this text before the one with the question, for you to know better my diagnosis if I should need a tuner or not in my softail standard. If I tell the Harley person this story, the first thing he’s going to tell me is…….. you’ve lost your warranty!!!! Lol It’s sad that they don’t do a correct engendering anymore on purpose!!!! They design the machine to last 5 years……..business!!!!! In Cuba still the 1957 chevys are running!! …..back there , another mentality!!!!
@@MAM..888 ahh ok! how do you like those DK Custom inserts? I've wondered about those. Check with them and see if they recommend any tuning changes. And you're right - if you ask the dealer we know what they'll say! Which slip-ons did you go with? And how's that dipstick working?
@@RonsWorkshop The inserts work ok in my SHORTYS SLIPONS , gain a little back pressure and the slip on sound lowered like 3 decibels with the inserts , At DK they told me I don’t need any tuning in my bike with slip ons and inserts . I just called Harley and told them about the slip ons with inserts without changing stock air filter, and they say I need the dyno tuning that is like $800 with labor for my 2022 softail standard. They are a monopoly. Wow!!! Ron , I tell you the truth, I’m thinking about putting back my stock mufflers… wow!!! I don’t know whom to believe, DK or Harley.!!!! What do you think??? Regarding the dipstick, the mod works fine as expected. I still have the external breather hose running through the bottom of my bike . I watched your vids of the catch can 3 way valve vacuum, and I was wondering what would happen if I run normal without vacuum or pressure???
Do you think this kit is compatible with the Progressive 460 shock? I want to lower the bike because I am short. I also want a smooth ride. Any advise?
Hey Sportster rider - I’m guessing it wouldn’t be compatible because it’s such a precise ft. But Kodlin is very responsive so maybe check with them directly. Let me know what you learn!
These products are designed to fit OEM shocks in 2018 and newer Softails only. Currently, we do not test fitment on aftermarket shocks and have made no measurement comparisons.
Hey Anna - I didn’t, but it’s right on the edge of being too long now. I can’t turn the bars fully to the right when it’s on the stand because it will tip right over.
Hello Ron, Trying to install this kit but got stuck trying to remove the original piece. I loosened the nut but when I tried to unscrew the main piece the center pin just spins with it and I can't get it loose. Any recommendations? Is the main pin suppose to spin? Is there something wrong with my shock? Any input would help. Thanks.
Hey Rodrigo - did you loosen the jam nut that sits against the lower shock mount? Once you do that you can also wrap a rag or piece of leather around the shaft and hold it with channel locks or vice grips to keep it from scarring. And yes it’s normal for it to spin. Let me know how it goes!
@@RonsWorkshop Ok good Im glad My shock is not Broken. Yes I was able to loosen the lock nut with no problem but the main piece is really in there. Whoever put it together must of used allot of locktite or something. I tried everything. A piece of leather and Rubber around the main shaft and with strong vice grips but no luck. It just doesn't want to come off. It just spins. So frustrating. I just spayed some stuff called Blaster its a penetrating catalyst for removing screws and rusty nuts. So hopefully that will work. Thank you for your time. Thanks for all the work you do on this channel.
@@RodrigoMelo-ms7qi it has "normal" threads - "righty-tighty". PB Blaster is great stuff - if it is still hanging on you might try standing it vertical with the stuck fitting down, and then giving it a heavy dose of Blaster, and let it sit a full day or overnight. I suppose if it just won't let go, and heat doesn't help either, you could grind or file a couple of flat spots on the shaft and clamp it with vice grips. But surely that thing will let loose. Let me know how it goes...
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron Thanks for all the input. I appreciate it. Ok so I finally got it loose. I clamped it as tight as possible and was just a little more persistent with the heat gun. It took a little while but I finally got it loose. I had to really heat it up quite a bit. A little bit of a mission but it finally worked. I installed it on my Bike and it looks great. Next Im going to relocate my License plate and put in some nice small LED's on the rear so I will need to do some wiring. some 3in one Hog lights I ordered from Australia. The Plate light is pretty straight forward. But My Hog lights have 4 wires Blue,Black,Red,Yellow and my stock lights are just 3 wires Blue,Black and Purple. The kit did not come with any instructions. So I guess I'll have to figure it out. Thinking of contacting them to see if they have any diagrams or something. If you have any suggestions I would appreciate it. By the way I have a 2022 FXST with a 107 M8 motor with a stage one set up. It's basically a street bob with chrome and a smaller motor. It's my second bike and I love it. Been doing all the customizations myself and I enjoy doing it very much. I really appreciate channels like yours. It's very encouraging and it really helps allot. Especially when a content creator responds to messages like you do. Thanks again for everything.
Have you lowered or raised the rear of your bike? How did it go and what kit did you use? Or did you use your own solution? How much drop did you get? Leave a comment and let me know!
I've been eyeing up this kit for my 21 bob, but also thinking about lowering the front. Maybe a video about the front would be ideal howbowdit.
I went with the RWD mono shock bike has a fender gap like the Dyna Softails. Way better for turning and not scrapping pegs on twisty roads. I heard lowering kits comprimise comfort making the ride more hard and rough.
Hey @@jamescollins5073 - I'll do a bit of research. What approach are you looking at for lowering the front?
Hey @@adminadmin9997 - that looks like a nice kit! Did you get about 2" of lift? For this lowering kit the comfort seems fine - all of the original preload and spring rate are unaffected, but the clearance reduction is definitely noticeable (but also to be expected).
I simply use the same KODLIN system. I have a soft tail standard 2022
Great vidio,.I installed the Kodlin kit about 2yrs ago on my 18 Fatbob 114, Just a TIP I used 2 rachet straps one on each side of the spring , they worked out just great. Kodin lowered the bike about 1inch, all though I did have to turn up the shock adjuster about 2 more numbers. Other than an occasionally kick stand drage on a speed bump it's worked out fine
Hey Terry - thanks for sharing your results and that tip as well!
Love your vids Ron, been watching all your vids, always good quality. Cheers from Australia mate 👍used snatch straps to compress my spring, was a bit fun.
Hey mate - thanks so much! I really appreciate the encouragement. Did you have any problems with the straps slipping on the coils?
Let me know if I can send you a sticker - send me a DM on Telegram, Instagram or Signal with the mailing info @RonsWorkshop
Great instructional video! I might as well remove the stock M8 Softail shock spring and replace it with a lighter rate spring to match my 150 lb body weight. The stock shock pounds my back so bad I'm in pain for days after I go for a short ride.
Thanks for the kind words! Let me know if you do swap out the shock.
Just installed the lower kit in ny '20 FXST a few days ago, love the way the bike sits now. Interestingly, it also rides better. Feels more stable and bumps feel softer. Not sure how that works and wasnt something I expected, but its also a welcome change.
I will note that I lost a bit of lean angle before scraping parts, BUT I also rip my bike around corners a lot faster and lean more than most other HD riders. Unless you like to take turns aggressively, I suspect you probably won't dven notice you loss of some lean angle. Even so, I'll take that negative for all the other positives.
Agreed!
Thanks Ron, another great video. The one issue that stopped me getting the lowering kit is that the jack I have just about fits under the standard bike so it would have increased the price as I'd need a new lifting jack. One thing to point out is to make sure you can get the bike back off the jack once the work is done 👍
Hey Orange Manstan - you are correct about the Jack clearance. In my case, I roll the bike up onto a couple of wooden slats to give the frame the extra clearance. Thanks for the feedback and the kind words!
Great video, quality, info. Leaves nothing to the imagination. Thanks!
Hey Tom - thanks for the kind words!
Great video, I’m glad you’re back. :)
Hey Tom - thanks for the kind words and encouragement! Took a small hiatus to work on a few other things :)
@@RonsWorkshop I hope you'll try the method from the another comment to lower it even more. :)
Yeah I’m pretty sure that’s happening :)
Am going up an inch, prefer ground clearance for better cornering and ride height/travel for passenger comfort. The extra inch rise will provide enough sag to sit the bike seated at the height it sits un seated. Low Rider S has similar length shock to Street bobs but with a remote adjuster, you can see the mount for it on the bracket goes over the rear of the shock on the bob. On later 22 Low rider s they opted to fit the heritage/fatbob shock as inch longer travel. Will be buying a new used fat bob shock removing the black knob and fitting that one as cannot see the point of a jackup kit with no gained extra travel. A tip for yourself, amazon el cheapo ratchet straps less then $10, some leather garden gloves and some old rags, strap and rachet the springs, straps protect springs rags protect springs body from ratchet mechanisms. There's vids out there of people using them, its ballsy but it works sweet ; ) used them when changed out the stock shock for the longer MG Stelvio adventure version and the soggy spring for a rated to my weight version spring on my Moto Guzzi Griso.
Thanks for sharing all that info! Yeah, the ratchet strap technique would be a little nerve-racking but not out of the question. I like the way you’re planning to do that shock swap. Let me know how it goes!
I think after seeing this that dropping the fender instead of the rear end will be the way I go. I want a tighter fender but without losing cornering clearance.
Hey Bryan - that’s a good idea. Let me know if you end up giving it a try. I suppose the existing rear fender struts could be retained and the fender re-drilled, or a new fender with the mounting holes in different locations, could be used.
Great video, keep up the great work
Thanks Mac!
Two questions. 1. Why did you want to lower the rear? 2. Is there any issue, safety or otherwise, having the rear lowered and not the front? Doesn't seem like a good idea.
Hey jimbert50 - for me it’s just personal preference. I’ve always thought that rear fender was much higher above the tire than I preferred.
I haven’t noticed any handling issues at all - highway or otherwise - aside from dragging everything like I mentioned.
Hehehehe!!! My 2 cents
Mine dropped more than 1.5” , and yours will too my friend!!!
First of all let me ask you a couple of questions, one rhetoric and other logicals .
1- Did you lock well enough the big nut that came STOCK in the threaded shock shaft against the KODLIN screwing head ? when you installed the KODLIN HEAD WITH BLUE LOCTITE ??? 😉
I know you didn’t because you can’t, the KODLIN HEAD comes with a lip that doesn’t allow you to do that. Right?
Question #2.
Then why did you leave the big stock nut installed in the shock threaded shaft?
By now I know you already realized what I am talking about!!!
Mine: I took off the stock nut and screwed all the way down the KODLIN HEAD …..it dropped more than 1.5”.
Great channel my friend, I have learned a lot from you.
God bless you and keep you!
Hey ALABANZA Y ADORACIÓN CRISTIANA - you're correct on #1...the lip prevents snugging the jam nut without a strangely offset wrench or some other gymnastics. I ran the jam nut all the way down and snugged it as well as I could. I don't suspect there will be any problems...hope not! #2...now that's an idea worth trying. I may just have to give that a shot. Any problems with fender contact, and what preload setting do you use? Thanks for sharing that!
@@RonsWorkshop
No problems at all for the moment 👍
@@RonsWorkshop
I use setting # 3 for me 210 lbs
And setting #7 for my wife and I.
Actually, you can tighten the locknut, I do it all the time. When using our tool, you simply compress the spring until you can get a better angle on the nut. You can also use a thin wrench and get to it through the springs after you release the tension. Nut just needs to be snugged up. Agreed, the lip does make it challenging but not impossible. We do not recommend removing the lock nut! Liabilities...Like the video by the way. Thanks, James
@@kodlinusa6155 Hey James - thanks for chiming in! I appreciate that input and the kind words.
Would it be possible to use regular spring compressors to do this job , thanks 👍
As long as it is small enough to fit that coil spring and also doesn’t contact the shock inside the coil spring. Let me know if you find one that works!
Hello there again Ron .How are you doing?
This time if it’s possible I need you to guide me to a good tutorial video of how to connect in my softail standard 2022 a harley electrical connection harness 69201599a.
I am planning to install the mighty mite fan in the accessory plug , but it needs to be installed and converted from scratch. I will always appreciate your help my friend. 👍👍👍
Hey there! I'm not sure if this will help, but I have a video on how I used the accessory plug: for my fog light
ua-cam.com/video/B9z5nHKgv98/v-deo.html
Let me know it goes!
I'vs installed one of these (Müler) on my previous streetbob, after 4000km my suspension was dead. Better ad few buck and buy a real adjustable shock..
There are definitely tradeoffs improvements in ride quality with aftermarket shocks vs. OEM shocks. For simple lowering this does the trick.
How are you doing Ron?
I have a technical question for you. I have a softail standard 2022 , I kept the stock air filter but I took off the mufflers and put a couple of shortys slip ons.
Do I need to tune the bike for that?
I also added a couple of mods that I learned from you, the transmission top cover vent and the air filter breathers I put them outside.., and they work perfect. But the main issue is the need of a running or not because of the shortys slip ons .
Thank you in advance as always 👍
Howdy! Glad to hear that the mods went well for you. Technically any change that affects airflow into or out of the engine will change fuel demands. I’d expect the slip ons to lower the back pressure a bit. However, it probably wouldn’t be a drastic change. I’d check with the company to see if they recommend tuning. Let me know what you learn and decide.
@@RonsWorkshop
I will 👍
@@RonsWorkshop
Actually I did the two valves decompression mod at the same time (the one on the transmission top cover and the one in the dipstick) in the dipstick I applied the same logic that the FUELING DIPSTICK did , I separated the two parts, drilled the four 1/8” holes at the lower part, then I put an sponge inside the two parts before gluing them with gray Permatex , I used a 5/16” bleeding screw cut the tip and tapped the very center top of the dipstick head , screwed it there with red loctite and from inside I filled the head with Jd weld making to keep the hole open using a bbq stick (lol).
Then started the same logic with the transmission cover mod …. On the dipstick I installed a one way valve also and at the end a breather filter.
I guess with the two same purpose mod at the same time , I was gonna lower also 50% the probabilities of oil spills or so, both of them are doing the same but with less stress.
And another thing about the slip ons, I both the lollipops that those guys of DK customs sell, and installed them in the slip ons and I think I gain back some of the back pressure.
I should have send you Ron this text before the one with the question, for you to know better my diagnosis if I should need a tuner or not in my softail standard.
If I tell the Harley person this story, the first thing he’s going to tell me is…….. you’ve lost your warranty!!!! Lol
It’s sad that they don’t do a correct engendering anymore on purpose!!!! They design the machine to last 5 years……..business!!!!!
In Cuba still the 1957 chevys are running!! …..back there , another mentality!!!!
@@MAM..888 ahh ok! how do you like those DK Custom inserts? I've wondered about those. Check with them and see if they recommend any tuning changes. And you're right - if you ask the dealer we know what they'll say! Which slip-ons did you go with? And how's that dipstick working?
@@RonsWorkshop
The inserts work ok in my SHORTYS SLIPONS , gain a little back pressure and the slip on sound lowered like 3 decibels with the inserts , At DK they told me I don’t need any tuning in my bike with slip ons and inserts . I just called Harley and told them about the slip ons with inserts without changing stock air filter, and they say I need the dyno tuning that is like $800 with labor for my 2022 softail standard. They are a monopoly. Wow!!!
Ron , I tell you the truth, I’m thinking about putting back my stock mufflers… wow!!!
I don’t know whom to believe, DK or Harley.!!!! What do you think???
Regarding the dipstick, the mod works fine as expected.
I still have the external breather hose running through the bottom of my bike . I watched your vids of the catch can 3 way valve vacuum, and I was wondering what would happen if I run normal without vacuum or pressure???
Where did you get the tag relocation bracket from?
DK Custom - I’ve been very happy with their products. Here’s the license plate bracket I have: bit.ly/4bCx0aJ
does the shock rub anywhere after the lowering kit installation?
Hey Navi Sandhu - I haven't noticed any contact or rubbing. Let me know if you try it!
@@RonsWorkshop yes im going to order one for my 2019 breakout, you think its necessary to lower thge front as well?
@@sandhujatt2 I didn't lower the front of mine, and it seems fine. You could always start with the rear and see how you like it.
Do you think this kit is compatible with the Progressive 460 shock? I want to lower the bike because I am short. I also want a smooth ride. Any advise?
Hey Sportster rider - I’m guessing it wouldn’t be compatible because it’s such a precise ft. But Kodlin is very responsive so maybe check with them directly. Let me know what you learn!
These products are designed to fit OEM shocks in 2018 and newer Softails only. Currently, we do not test fitment on aftermarket shocks and have made no measurement comparisons.
Did you change the kickstand?
Hey Anna - I didn’t, but it’s right on the edge of being too long now. I can’t turn the bars fully to the right when it’s on the stand because it will tip right over.
@@RonsWorkshop thanks Ron. When I lower mine I will look into a jiffy stand. Btw I enjoy your content. 👍👍
Thanks for the kind words! Let me know what jiffy stand you go with. I may swap mine as well.
Hello Ron, Trying to install this kit but got stuck trying to remove the original piece. I loosened the nut but when I tried to unscrew the main piece the center pin just spins with it and I can't get it loose. Any recommendations? Is the main pin suppose to spin? Is there something wrong with my shock?
Any input would help. Thanks.
Hey Rodrigo - did you loosen the jam nut that sits against the lower shock mount? Once you do that you can also wrap a rag or piece of leather around the shaft and hold it with channel locks or vice grips to keep it from scarring. And yes it’s normal for it to spin.
Let me know how it goes!
@@RonsWorkshop Ok good Im glad My shock is not Broken. Yes I was able to loosen the lock nut with no problem but the main piece is really in there. Whoever put it together must of used allot of locktite or something. I tried everything. A piece of leather and Rubber around the main shaft and with strong vice grips but no luck. It just doesn't want to come off. It just spins. So frustrating. I just spayed some stuff called Blaster its a penetrating catalyst for removing screws and rusty nuts. So hopefully that will work.
Thank you for your time. Thanks for all the work you do on this channel.
So The Blaster did not work. I Tried some heat also with no luck. Just to check the thread is counter clock wise rite?
@@RodrigoMelo-ms7qi it has "normal" threads - "righty-tighty". PB Blaster is great stuff - if it is still hanging on you might try standing it vertical with the stuck fitting down, and then giving it a heavy dose of Blaster, and let it sit a full day or overnight. I suppose if it just won't let go, and heat doesn't help either, you could grind or file a couple of flat spots on the shaft and clamp it with vice grips. But surely that thing will let loose. Let me know how it goes...
@@RonsWorkshop Hey Ron Thanks for all the input. I appreciate it. Ok so I finally got it loose. I clamped it as tight as possible and was just a little more persistent with the heat gun. It took a little while but I finally got it loose. I had to really heat it up quite a bit. A little bit of a mission but it finally worked. I installed it on my Bike and it looks great. Next Im going to relocate my License plate and put in some nice small LED's on the rear so I will need to do some wiring. some 3in one Hog lights I ordered from Australia. The Plate light is pretty straight forward. But My Hog lights have 4 wires Blue,Black,Red,Yellow and my stock lights are just 3 wires Blue,Black and Purple. The kit did not come with any instructions.
So I guess I'll have to figure it out. Thinking of contacting them to see if they have any diagrams or something. If you have any suggestions I would appreciate it. By the way I have a 2022 FXST with a 107 M8 motor with a stage one set up. It's basically a street bob with chrome and a smaller motor. It's my second bike and I love it. Been doing all the customizations myself and I enjoy doing it very much. I really appreciate channels like yours. It's very encouraging and it really helps allot. Especially when a content creator responds to messages like you do. Thanks again for everything.