I know this is going to sound crazy but here it goes, I'm 50 yrs old and ive been street/strip racing since the 80s back in high school sometimes dead hooking from the line can hurt you instead of help you i believe that is where your bog from the line is coming in at your hooking too good, you don't want to smoke the tires from the line but if you spin the tires just a little bit it gets your wheel speed up right out of the gate, so you get into your power sooner instead of later which means quicker et's and faster mph, it works try it next time your at the track and see how it goes, when you here guys talking about getting there wheel speed up thats what there referring to, is spinning a bit from the line to get into there power band quicker, hope this helps. Great video btw. You could also try a little lower gear ratio like a 373 or 410/411 and still be streetable. I had a 72 C/10 with 454BB 350 turbo hydro transmission 456 in the back 3500 stall and i drove that thing everywhere it ran 7.97 best et, and ran 8.0 consistently in the 1/8 mile, 7.65 on 125 shot of NOS. Damn fun truck to drive.
Tommy Sellers I absolutely believe that logic regarding to wheel spin. It's all about finding that sweet spot so you dont spin too much. Not sure when I'll be out there next but I'll definitely try it. Thanks for the comment, and your truck sounds badass!
TampaBay Builds ,Thanks yeah it was just an old (farm truck) HEHE, it was yellow with one left front fender blackish it was known as the bruised banana, it definately bruised some egos and some wallets, fun fun fun till your wife divorces you and you have to sell it so you can pay child support lol, hell of a ride while it lasted.
Hay Tom sellers, you are right,you could hear the engine BOG, I think he could add a couple pounds of air to rear tires, or lower gear after trying air pressures, and have a lot of fun! Take it from a old racer, back in the 70's To 1985. Had a lot of fun!
Hey just want to say this was a really good video. I have a stalled 2002 Camaro with a built transmission. I’m running a yank ss3600 converter. I also have a 3.42 rear gear. Your setup is nice and very street friendly. My car is bolt on and still has stock 241 heads and the stock cam. I went 12.48 @ 109mph with a little wheel spin. My 60’ was a 1.87. If you want to bring your et down more honestly you may need a little more stall speed. A heads/cam car should be able to get into the 11’s
I use to live in Sarasota, whent to high school there. I knoe Bradenton. Havent been to Florida in 18 years lol I live in Albuquerque nm now. Great video
Love the channel ive owed 7 my 1st car at 15 was a 85 z28 i currently own a 2000 1st owner 40 original mail started life as a t56 346 ls car i was the 1st guy ro run mid 9s in the 1/4. I do have a different set then yours i grudge race so i cant tell all but i run a loose 3600 373 gear 240 245 cam nos yes i do agree your times should be lower cam only cars runs low 11 s to 10.8s 9s but i like a losse stall an big cam even with to me your mild cam converter set up i think its the tune with a more radical race tune your times will go down i just think your tune has way more in it an keep up the videos an good wk
That's pretty sad my 06 GTO with cold air intake and 3600 converter went 12-6 on street tires my 5th gen Camaro with bolt ons and converter runs 11-8 on drag radials
Better weight transfer launching off idle with that chassis tune. Your setup is fairly consistent maybe with a better DA you’d be in the 11’s. Once you have the chassis sorted out you’ll be able to launch off the converter much harder. Great job!
My T/A is built similar. I don't go to the track, it's just a stoplight demon. I now know what to expect if I did. Mine launches best just hitting the go pedal.
I bet elevation varying all over the nation as well as air quality is a major cause in all the variances you see in peoples runs. Another observation I’ve had is that the 98-02 stock firebirds all seems to be quicker than stock camaros. This was a cool video. It also seems like the right mixture of gear ratio with head and cam changes is like an art too. I personally am beginning to feel that it’s more pleasant to leave a car near stock and just get to the 3-400 range and simply gain time by dropping the weight, getting an extensive suspension set up, and other changes like gear and axle changes with minor head and cam packages. It is cool to have an impressive track time of 7-9 seconds but realistically on the road its not worth going that deeply invested into it and most likely even if someone is letting that throttle wide open it’s not going to be for long nor will it be maxed out much past a hundred unless that road is in the middle of no where or it’s a highway. I think seeing a Russian TRV literally tearing up the road was an excellent example of making the most of the power you have. You have got to check out the firebird that went around the Nuremberg ring. Someone did some crazy modifications which I don’t consider mainstream changes at all. Being what the car is and not pretending it to be more than it is he landed a ridiculous lap time. That thing was flying and it handled the corners and the breaking unlike the stock car ever could. He did have Cts v brakes on it and if I’m not mistaken the weight was definitely down. Another cool run I’ve seen was a 1/4 lt1 hitting 9 seconds with from the brief details seemed like very small changes. That’s faster than a Lamborghini with launch control from 2017 😂. The last thing I’d like to say to any reader is never think the car is who you are and that when I was a kid I used to think cars were like they were in video games where you would just fly but in even in cars that are very fast it is never so overwhelming to the senses as my imagination pictured it and it’s also not worth putting the life and security of others or your life and security on the line for a quick rush that lasts a moment.
Your first run on vid you” flashed “the converter. That means the engines momentum of accelerating from an idle hits the converter with a greater force and helps a tight converter move the car. Does your car have a custom tune? Still have the front sway bar?
If nobody has said it yet the reason your windshield is fogging is because you're running the car where is the back door open to outside air put it on recirculate to keep this from happening that way the outside pressure one build up at the cowl area of the windshield and force the humid air into the car
You could always do 50-100 wet shot unless your the motor only type which is fine. Just my .2cents. Happy for your enjoyment of your car no matter the numbers.
Don't sweat dyno numbers man especially in an a4. They are meaningless. Besides you almost got to 400 with a baby cam. It's all about how it runs, and basically you have a high 11s/low 12s Camaro that's gonna embarrass alot of newer cars.
Got a 08 charger 6.1 tune/180 stat and cai ran 12.94 at 113.9. I need some tires I can do a full throttle launch but this car moves. And I can't flash it either I just spin I gotta baby it on the take off till like 3-4k rpms
There is a difference between a fast car and a quick car. Making your car both quick and fast... that's the hard part... Good video. I like the side by side time slips. Did you just try a higher stall converter at random? or did you dyno your car to pick a converter that would best match your engine's power curve?
Nice. I run 12.3 with stock heads in cold weather. Hot weather is 12.5 @413whp. Anyone heard of car falling out of torque converter lock wot in 3rd toward red line? Is that possible?
Get your stall reflashed to a 3600 or 4000. Dont be afraid to get a big stall. My 1998 stock internal dyno tuned car went as fast as your car. It dynoed only @ 330 hp at the wheels. With a billet 3600 stall and 3.42 gears My car is a daily driver getting 16city/25hwy mpg with the stall. You should be in the mid to high 11s
pretty sure on your second run you pushed through the beams which started the clock before you actually floored it. that is where the slower time comes from.
Did u put another 10 bolt in if so what gears. My cars pretty identical. 385hp just cam Intake. 3600 stall. But I'm running 275/40/17s nitto nt555r extreme drags. Love ur channel btw
Hey thanks man I appreciate it! I kept the 10 bolt in there and just changed out the ring and pinion. Went with Motive performance 3.42 gears, and the full install kit from Texas speed which included all bearings, crush sleeves...etc. The performance gears are made for higher torque applications, I'm very happy with them and there's no whine like some people have experienced.
TampaBay Builds hey so I went to the track today for my first time ever. I told you my mods in last comment I'm running nt555r drag radials and best 60ft I could do was 1.849 12.31 1/4 mile at 111
TampaBay Builds because u have heads and higher rear end gears I bet with better tune and slicks u could almost hit 11s. I think even if I get slicks I'm not gonna break 12
Windshield fogging issue? SCIENCE WARNING!!! If you have it on recirculate, the moisture from your breath will condense on cold glass. Also if you've been pumping cold AC air directly on the windshield to "defog" it, you are working against yourself. Example: I imagine you are turning off the AC compressor and fan for your run. But the windshield is very cold. You breathing fast and humid Florida air quickly condenses moisture on the glass. Try toughing it out for 5 to 10 minutes next time. Don't turn the heat up on defog if the glass is real cold. It can break the glass. I bet you a hearty handshake that if the windshield is warm for your next run, you won't get fogged. STORY TIME: I used to sell cars and a guy was tired of his windows fogging up on a Taurus, so he swung by and bought an Intrepid from me. I told him he didnt need a new car. I set it up for him and he was happy. He changed the settings back to recirculate the next day and came back to the dealership mad as hell. He wanted to fight me. I turned off recirculate while my coworkers held him back and he was screaming at me across the parking lot. The windshield cleared up. I showed him how he didn't know how run it, and that was the problem on the Taurus, even though he didn't believe me. My manager told him next time he needs us to run his car for him, he should just swing by again. LOL
Ya half a second from a converter would probably be a real big converter and you may need to dial in the tune with shifts and stuff id you had not I saw one shift at like 5500 or something and then like 6200 and I know a lot of cams are making power at like 6500 so that may help
What's your cam specs? More Stall would help. You can drive a 5000 Stall at 2500 without a problem. Lockup will drop it further so cruising is always the same rpm even with a Méga Stall. That's why they say you can shave a half second. As high as you can launch without wheelspin
3600 is what I was originally planning, but Pro torque spec'd out my stall based on my dyno graphs, cam duration, rear end gears and everything. Since they gave me a calculated recommendation I had to go with it lol
Dont worry i dynoed at 301 rw nd 321trq but my car moves mane with all that being said dyno is just a tool so wen i do cam i prob be at 360-380 as well
There are only 2 HVAC settings on the LS1 F-body Camaro that keep the A/C compressor off, upper vent setting only (non blue) and floorboard setting only. All the windshield defogger settings including the blended floorboard setting kick the compressor on. But, the floorboard only setting does allow some air onto the windshield. My recommendation would be to run this setting at the track with some heat, or full heat. This will help keep your windshield from fogging and keep safer runs while not wetting the track for other people. I've had the same as you happen in the past. Good luck with your mods!
What kind of tires. ? I have a stall long tubes and mt street radials on my 2002 camaro ss .. And I ran a 8.6 1/8 But spinning of the line .. first I spinned to the left then to the right then back to the middle Lol .. But man I need so better tires . I know that spinning is hurting my time .. I also beat a 2002 trans am with ported head .. cam and a 4000 stall . Stage 2 trans and 17×12 rims .. I guess my car was just a beast cause it use to run 10s on spray .. & it's not even cammed
my 01 ss has lt headers, exhaust, tune and slp lid, stock converter and 3.23 gears and i run 12.67 @ 110.9mph with a shitty 1.9 60 foot. im installing ported ls6 heads, fast 92mm intake and tb, torquer v2 cam, yank ss 4000 stall and 3.73 gears. hoping for mid to low 11s
My 99 Z-28 automatic convertible with 125,000 miles ran a 13.01 on street tires, All cars are different and everybody’s knowledge is different! Apparently the guy in the video got some bad advice for his car! Why would anyone do heads and cam before ring and pinion, Cam profiles are determined by your cars set up!
Your summery at the end, you said E/T was just bragging rights but MPH is how fast your car is... I guess I agree, if you are running long wide open salt flat races for top speed. But E/T is a measure of how quickly you can get your car to speed. E/T is how quick your car is and MPH is how fast it is. Two cars can run the 1/4 mile in 12.200. One crosses the finish line at 112mhp and the other crosses at 130mph. The car that was going faster at the finish, in my opinion was a slower car. It has a soft launch and had to play catch up the whole way down the track. Just my opinion, I know would prefer the 130mph finish. That's why they make more than one car, and more than one tune.... Have fun... stay safe!
MPH is direct relation to HP, it's a much more meaningful statistic than an ET is, especially in 99.9% of the cars at the track, aka street cars. MPH is also a much better indicator how fast a car is on the street, nobody can drive at the track, so ET's are going to blow for most people, especially on a street night prepped track. Also, terrible example. LMAO.
@@ryanjamieson8779 hmmm... I'm not sure what you're trying to say is a terrible example. If my car crossed the finish line a half second before your car, don't I win? Even if you are going 10MPH faster than I am at the end? The race is who gets there first, not who was going fastest when they got there....
Ended up selling her. Wanted to move to Colorado and didn't seem practical to keep it. But boyyy, it was funn while it lasted! On to new adventures now!
@@tampabaybuilds6825 building anything interesting these days? Would love to follow your journey whatever you decide on. Also I wish I could take your place in Tampa 🤣
I would expect that as well, but from the research I've done it's usually not the case, to my surprise. Torque converters tend to spread the power out more evenly over the entire power band, which in turn leads to a little less peak HP. But since the power is being put down more consistently throughout the RPMs, the car is faster, but peak HP dips a little bit. Does that make sense? Took me a while to wrap my head around it. If I conveniently find a cheap dyno day I'll probably throw it on just to know though.
It's fascinating how much variance there is amongst the same engine and car. You might have one of the faster ones (or maybe mine is lacking, who knows).
I'm confused on why you're only running low 12s at 110 with a H/C setup man? High DA? You should be deep in the 11s trapping 120+. Is your tune right? Hurt motor?? Great video either way.
Surprised it's not faster than that I have a 2011 Camaro SS automatic with no converter just bolt ons and I run 12 4 at 115. No cam about to install 3400 Circle D converter in should be deep in the 11 on slicks
Pinellas performance Automotive in Clearwater off of Sunset Point Rd. His name is Tom and he does great work and is super knowledgable, talked me through my whole build and was always there for questions. Highly recommend.
I noticed u were shifting at 6k rpm, with a cam you should be shifting at 6500 at least. Also the gears you have are not great for racing, maybe if u are still trying to save gas. I’d do 3.73 if u want to go faster. I know you aren’t worried too much about the track time but you spent some money and didn’t get full potential out of it when you could have bought different parts for the same amount and went faster. Still a nice car though and great video.
You have to practice more on shifting in launching So you can get The Times that you are reading about Maybe Lake 50 more times you gota live in the track👍🏼🏎🚗🚦
TampaBay Builds you should have gone deeper with the gear 373 410 342 is to high lower gears will keep you in your power band longer especially with a Cam and heads car
Those are nice ETs and mph. For a street driven car, in my opinion, to increase track performance you will decrease street manners/fun. You are/were at a good point to leave it alone?
I don’t think the size of the cam is the issue ihe is not reving it high enough when you put a cam of his size on a 115 it carries power way high I always tell people to get a 110-112 lsa for a street/ strip car especially with a stall so the power band is lower in the rpm and it becomes more of a peaky cam but that’s what you want 115 starts the cam sooner and ends later in the rpm 115lsa is for no stall or easy idle for tuning but on a 110lsa it’s a monster of a cam and you don’t have to rev as high to get all the power
TampaBay Builds I feel ya i like small cams on 110-112 lsa so that the cam gives everything sooner makes it more peaky and smaller power band more of a all or nothing type cam on a dyno you should be able to see were your cam falls off and I bet your Hanna shift 200rpm or more then you are now and that can drop you another half a second
I don’t think the size of the cam is the issue ihe is not reving it high enough when you put a can of his size on a 115 it carries power way high I always tell people to get a 110-112 lsa for a street/ strip car especially with a stall so the power band is lower and it becomes more of a peaky cam but that’s what you want 115 starts the cam sooner and ends later in the rpm
Done anything to the car lately? I agree, with heads and cam you should have been in the 11s. I took a full second off from 13.2 to 12.2 with an ss3800 and nitto drags, 1.70 60'. Still had the 2.73s, just lid and catback. I would launch at 3500 rpms. ua-cam.com/video/G_FVfZlGVmM/v-deo.html
Mph isn’t important lol I’ve seen cars run 8s at 145 but I’ve also seen them run 8s at 160 just depends where your power is, down low or on the big end.
I really hope my Camaro will be fast. It's a 2001 z28 with 6.0 lq4 swap, cam (551 lift, 269/278 duration), ls1 intake, stock lq4 ported heads, and y pipe. I'll be done in about a week this car better be well over 400 at the wheels!
@@mikemaness6804 Nothing wrong with the brand converter its just a 3000 stall is mild. People run 3200-4000 stalls even in stock Ls1s because thats where those engines make power. I thought when I bought my 00 SS the 2800 Vig stall I had was awesome, until I went with a Yank 3600. Huge difference in performance and no real difference in driveability. Same with the cam its very mild, but thats what happens when you start modding you always want more. A 224r or 228r cam from texas speed would be completely streetable and make alot more power, not to mention his 115 LSA isn't great for the low end.
I don't comment on many videos but this was just great. Thank you.
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching.
I know this is going to sound crazy but here it goes, I'm 50 yrs old and ive been street/strip racing since the 80s back in high school sometimes dead hooking from the line can hurt you instead of help you i believe that is where your bog from the line is coming in at your hooking too good, you don't want to smoke the tires from the line but if you spin the tires just a little bit it gets your wheel speed up right out of the gate, so you get into your power sooner instead of later which means quicker et's and faster mph, it works try it next time your at the track and see how it goes, when you here guys talking about getting there wheel speed up thats what there referring to, is spinning a bit from the line to get into there power band quicker, hope this helps. Great video btw. You could also try a little lower gear ratio like a 373 or 410/411 and still be streetable. I had a 72 C/10 with 454BB 350 turbo hydro transmission 456 in the back 3500 stall and i drove that thing everywhere it ran 7.97 best et, and ran 8.0 consistently in the 1/8 mile, 7.65 on 125 shot of NOS. Damn fun truck to drive.
Tommy Sellers I absolutely believe that logic regarding to wheel spin. It's all about finding that sweet spot so you dont spin too much.
Not sure when I'll be out there next but I'll definitely try it. Thanks for the comment, and your truck sounds badass!
TampaBay Builds ,Thanks yeah it was just an old (farm truck) HEHE, it was yellow with one left front fender blackish it was known as the bruised banana, it definately bruised some egos and some wallets, fun fun fun till your wife divorces you and you have to sell it so you can pay child support lol, hell of a ride while it lasted.
Hay Tom sellers, you are right,you could hear the engine BOG, I think he could add a couple pounds of air to rear tires, or lower gear after trying air pressures, and have a lot of fun! Take it from a old racer, back in the 70's
To 1985. Had a lot of fun!
If you bog because of a dead hook your converter needs to stall higher.
That was one fast truck. I’m running 8s now supercharged with bolt ons. That’s amazing.
Good runs man, love the car💪
Thanks man!
I subscribed because of the great 👍🏻 commentary !
So nice to see a 4gen camaro kicking ass !!!! Nice car , keep it up !!
Thanks man!
Hey just want to say this was a really good video. I have a stalled 2002 Camaro with a built transmission. I’m running a yank ss3600 converter. I also have a 3.42 rear gear. Your setup is nice and very street friendly. My car is bolt on and still has stock 241 heads and the stock cam. I went 12.48 @ 109mph with a little wheel spin. My 60’ was a 1.87. If you want to bring your et down more honestly you may need a little more stall speed. A heads/cam car should be able to get into the 11’s
I had a 2002 camaro ss with full exhaust,3600 stall and tune with drag radials and ran a 12.26 at 110.
I use to live in Sarasota, whent to high school there. I knoe Bradenton. Havent been to Florida in 18 years lol I live in Albuquerque nm now. Great video
Awesome! I just put a tap Cam and yank ss4000 in mine I can't wait to take it to the track! Also im in Ocala hahahah
Great car and vid bro.. but honestly u need a 4000 converter and flash it
Love the channel ive owed 7 my 1st car at 15 was a 85 z28 i currently own a 2000 1st owner 40 original mail started life as a t56 346 ls car i was the 1st guy ro run mid 9s in the 1/4. I do have a different set then yours i grudge race so i cant tell all but i run a loose 3600 373 gear 240 245 cam nos yes i do agree your times should be lower cam only cars runs low 11 s to 10.8s 9s but i like a losse stall an big cam even with to me your mild cam converter set up i think its the tune with a more radical race tune your times will go down i just think your tune has way more in it an keep up the videos an good wk
Great video!
Nice car. I have a 99 ss with cam and heads, full exhaust running 12.6 have 3.73 gears waiting to install hopefull gets a little quicker
Ernesto Castillo Kind of slow for a H/C/I car. Might want to get it returned.
That's pretty sad my 06 GTO with cold air intake and 3600 converter went 12-6 on street tires my 5th gen Camaro with bolt ons and converter runs 11-8 on drag radials
I went with a big cam, mph went up! but... my 60ft took a hugh hit... I'll get a torque converter soon to fix that.
Better weight transfer launching off idle with that chassis tune. Your setup is fairly consistent maybe with a better DA you’d be in the 11’s. Once you have the chassis sorted out you’ll be able to launch off the converter much harder. Great job!
I had basically the same set up on mine but I had 3.73's ran 11.79
11.64 cam only here with fac suck ass 2.73
My T/A is built similar. I don't go to the track, it's just a stoplight demon. I now know what to expect if I did. Mine launches best just hitting the go pedal.
I ran a 12.1@111 with just a torque converter and headers on a nt555r with a 1.67 60 foot so that car has a lot left in it
Agree
Nice honest video mate. Sub'd
I bet elevation varying all over the nation as well as air quality is a major cause in all the variances you see in peoples runs. Another observation I’ve had is that the 98-02 stock firebirds all seems to be quicker than stock camaros. This was a cool video. It also seems like the right mixture of gear ratio with head and cam changes is like an art too. I personally am beginning to feel that it’s more pleasant to leave a car near stock and just get to the 3-400 range and simply gain time by dropping the weight, getting an extensive suspension set up, and other changes like gear and axle changes with minor head and cam packages. It is cool to have an impressive track time of 7-9 seconds but realistically on the road its not worth going that deeply invested into it and most likely even if someone is letting that throttle wide open it’s not going to be for long nor will it be maxed out much past a hundred unless that road is in the middle of no where or it’s a highway. I think seeing a Russian TRV literally tearing up the road was an excellent example of making the most of the power you have. You have got to check out the firebird that went around the Nuremberg ring. Someone did some crazy modifications which I don’t consider mainstream changes at all. Being what the car is and not pretending it to be more than it is he landed a ridiculous lap time. That thing was flying and it handled the corners and the breaking unlike the stock car ever could. He did have Cts v brakes on it and if I’m not mistaken the weight was definitely down. Another cool run I’ve seen was a 1/4 lt1 hitting 9 seconds with from the brief details seemed like very small changes. That’s faster than a Lamborghini with launch control from 2017 😂. The last thing I’d like to say to any reader is never think the car is who you are and that when I was a kid I used to think cars were like they were in video games where you would just fly but in even in cars that are very fast it is never so overwhelming to the senses as my imagination pictured it and it’s also not worth putting the life and security of others or your life and security on the line for a quick rush that lasts a moment.
Your first run on vid you” flashed “the converter. That means the engines momentum of accelerating from an idle hits the converter with a greater force and helps a tight converter move the car. Does your car have a custom tune? Still have the front sway bar?
If nobody has said it yet the reason your windshield is fogging is because you're running the car where is the back door open to outside air put it on recirculate to keep this from happening that way the outside pressure one build up at the cowl area of the windshield and force the humid air into the car
Actually drag times is about 60ft, not mph. You're mph hardly changed, your 60ft did drastically better, meaning way faster et
You could always do 50-100 wet shot unless your the motor only type which is fine. Just my .2cents. Happy for your enjoyment of your car no matter the numbers.
Don't sweat dyno numbers man especially in an a4. They are meaningless. Besides you almost got to 400 with a baby cam. It's all about how it runs, and basically you have a high 11s/low 12s Camaro that's gonna embarrass alot of newer cars.
You are wise beyond your years.
Got a 08 charger 6.1 tune/180 stat and cai ran 12.94 at 113.9. I need some tires I can do a full throttle launch but this car moves. And I can't flash it either I just spin I gotta baby it on the take off till like 3-4k rpms
There is a difference between a fast car and a quick car. Making your car both quick and fast... that's the hard part... Good video. I like the side by side time slips. Did you just try a higher stall converter at random? or did you dyno your car to pick a converter that would best match your engine's power curve?
The builder of my transmission took my current mods and dyno sheet and spoke with pro torque to spec the recommended stall.
wow your almost in the elevens your making 383 hp to the dang tires your motor's hp are much higher!
I ran a 12.77 with a 3200 stall,3.42 gears,stock manifolds,3 in y pipe,cat back,untuned,853 heads
was DA similar on both days? looks like you had consistently quicker times but slower mph on higher stall (mainly in the 1/8)?
Wide open throttle until your windshield fogs up, then you know god. 😎
Need to get your brakes to hold the full 3k. Try holding your ebrake and the foot brake at the same time.
A Bracket racer Pulling best times said 10 inch wide tires was ultimate size
Rare to hear of a built 4L60E in a strip built car. I thought the world had moved on to the 4L80E all the way lol.
Nice. I run 12.3 with stock heads in cold weather. Hot weather is 12.5 @413whp. Anyone heard of car falling out of torque converter lock wot in 3rd toward red line? Is that possible?
Get your stall reflashed to a 3600 or 4000. Dont be afraid to get a big stall. My 1998 stock internal dyno tuned car went as fast as your car. It dynoed only @ 330 hp at the wheels. With a billet 3600 stall and 3.42 gears
My car is a daily driver getting 16city/25hwy mpg with the stall.
You should be in the mid to high 11s
pretty sure on your second run you pushed through the beams which started the clock before you actually floored it. that is where the slower time comes from.
Did u put another 10 bolt in if so what gears. My cars pretty identical. 385hp just cam Intake. 3600 stall. But I'm running 275/40/17s nitto nt555r extreme drags. Love ur channel btw
Hey thanks man I appreciate it!
I kept the 10 bolt in there and just changed out the ring and pinion. Went with Motive performance 3.42 gears, and the full install kit from Texas speed which included all bearings, crush sleeves...etc.
The performance gears are made for higher torque applications, I'm very happy with them and there's no whine like some people have experienced.
TampaBay Builds hey so I went to the track today for my first time ever. I told you my mods in last comment I'm running nt555r drag radials and best 60ft I could do was 1.849 12.31 1/4 mile at 111
TampaBay Builds because u have heads and higher rear end gears I bet with better tune and slicks u could almost hit 11s. I think even if I get slicks I'm not gonna break 12
Z28 Monte Carlo
Very nice! That's a great time
Subbed
Windshield fogging issue? SCIENCE WARNING!!! If you have it on recirculate, the moisture from your breath will condense on cold glass. Also if you've been pumping cold AC air directly on the windshield to "defog" it, you are working against yourself.
Example: I imagine you are turning off the AC compressor and fan for your run. But the windshield is very cold. You breathing fast and humid Florida air quickly condenses moisture on the glass.
Try toughing it out for 5 to 10 minutes next time. Don't turn the heat up on defog if the glass is real cold. It can break the glass.
I bet you a hearty handshake that if the windshield is warm for your next run, you won't get fogged.
STORY TIME: I used to sell cars and a guy was tired of his windows fogging up on a Taurus, so he swung by and bought an Intrepid from me. I told him he didnt need a new car. I set it up for him and he was happy. He changed the settings back to recirculate the next day and came back to the dealership mad as hell. He wanted to fight me. I turned off recirculate while my coworkers held him back and he was screaming at me across the parking lot. The windshield cleared up. I showed him how he didn't know how run it, and that was the problem on the Taurus, even though he didn't believe me. My manager told him next time he needs us to run his car for him, he should just swing by again. LOL
What tires were you running?
Ya half a second from a converter would probably be a real big converter and you may need to dial in the tune with shifts and stuff id you had not I saw one shift at like 5500 or something and then like 6200 and I know a lot of cams are making power at like 6500 so that may help
👍
What's your cam specs? More Stall would help. You can drive a 5000 Stall at 2500 without a problem. Lockup will drop it further so cruising is always the same rpm even with a Méga Stall. That's why they say you can shave a half second. As high as you can launch without wheelspin
It's a small cam. 216/224 .551 .551 15 LSA.
@@tampabaybuilds6825 Nice lift, yeah I see what you mean. Power coming on around 1800 - 2300
@@tampabaybuilds6825 you could jump up to the 280 range with a 3600 and you would be amazed
3600 is what I was originally planning, but Pro torque spec'd out my stall based on my dyno graphs, cam duration, rear end gears and everything. Since they gave me a calculated recommendation I had to go with it lol
A bigger cam would have done you so much justice
Cool man i run 13.0 at 110 full boltons with 373 gears im trying to get into 12 but i should wen i get cam ha
Dont worry i dynoed at 301 rw nd 321trq but my car moves mane with all that being said dyno is just a tool so wen i do cam i prob be at 360-380 as well
There are only 2 HVAC settings on the LS1 F-body Camaro that keep the A/C compressor off, upper vent setting only (non blue) and floorboard setting only. All the windshield defogger settings including the blended floorboard setting kick the compressor on.
But, the floorboard only setting does allow some air onto the windshield. My recommendation would be to run this setting at the track with some heat, or full heat. This will help keep your windshield from fogging and keep safer runs while not wetting the track for other people.
I've had the same as you happen in the past. Good luck with your mods!
I appreciate the info. I'll try the floorboard setting with heat next time I'm out.
@@tampabaybuilds6825 You're welcome, it may not help perfectly, but in my experience it was better than nothing
What kind of tires. ? I have a stall long tubes and mt street radials on my 2002 camaro ss .. And I ran a 8.6 1/8 But spinning of the line .. first I spinned to the left then to the right then back to the middle Lol .. But man I need so better tires . I know that spinning is hurting my time .. I also beat a 2002 trans am with ported head .. cam and a 4000 stall . Stage 2 trans and 17×12 rims .. I guess my car was just a beast cause it use to run 10s on spray .. & it's not even cammed
I'm running hancook ventus V12s. 265 70 r18.
Try deflating the tires a little.
my 01 ss has lt headers, exhaust, tune and slp lid, stock converter and 3.23 gears and i run 12.67 @ 110.9mph with a shitty 1.9 60 foot. im installing ported ls6 heads, fast 92mm intake and tb, torquer v2 cam, yank ss 4000 stall and 3.73 gears. hoping for mid to low 11s
My 99 Z-28 automatic convertible with 125,000 miles ran a 13.01 on street tires, All cars are different and everybody’s knowledge is different! Apparently the guy in the video got some bad advice for his car! Why would anyone do heads and cam before ring and pinion, Cam profiles are determined by your cars set up!
Wow I had cam only made 389 rwhp with nitrious converter on motor
Your summery at the end, you said E/T was just bragging rights but MPH is how fast your car is... I guess I agree, if you are running long wide open salt flat races for top speed. But E/T is a measure of how quickly you can get your car to speed. E/T is how quick your car is and MPH is how fast it is. Two cars can run the 1/4 mile in 12.200. One crosses the finish line at 112mhp and the other crosses at 130mph. The car that was going faster at the finish, in my opinion was a slower car. It has a soft launch and had to play catch up the whole way down the track. Just my opinion, I know would prefer the 130mph finish. That's why they make more than one car, and more than one tune.... Have fun... stay safe!
MPH is direct relation to HP, it's a much more meaningful statistic than an ET is, especially in 99.9% of the cars at the track, aka street cars.
MPH is also a much better indicator how fast a car is on the street, nobody can drive at the track, so ET's are going to blow for most people, especially on a street night prepped track.
Also, terrible example. LMAO.
@@ryanjamieson8779 hmmm... I'm not sure what you're trying to say is a terrible example. If my car crossed the finish line a half second before your car, don't I win? Even if you are going 10MPH faster than I am at the end? The race is who gets there first, not who was going fastest when they got there....
What cam you running
How far did you take it with the Camaro? Last upload was 3 years ago! Wanna know!
Ended up selling her. Wanted to move to Colorado and didn't seem practical to keep it. But boyyy, it was funn while it lasted! On to new adventures now!
@@tampabaybuilds6825 building anything interesting these days? Would love to follow your journey whatever you decide on. Also I wish I could take your place in Tampa 🤣
You need Bette heads, milder cam, and a fast intake you would easily hit 400+
Man bro we got similar setups my car made 410/390
Up your shift points and you might be able to break into the 11
i was expecting him to shift at 6500 or 7000 , yeah, maybe wind it out a bit more, see what happens.
What stall u got?
I have a stall in mine but never stall it. Flashing works best for me.
that means just hitting the gas, no powerbrake?
@@smalltownplaya712 Yes
I think a 4,000 stall would have got you that .5 your looking for.
Hit the Dyno again. It should help out on your RWHP.
I would expect that as well, but from the research I've done it's usually not the case, to my surprise. Torque converters tend to spread the power out more evenly over the entire power band, which in turn leads to a little less peak HP. But since the power is being put down more consistently throughout the RPMs, the car is faster, but peak HP dips a little bit. Does that make sense? Took me a while to wrap my head around it.
If I conveniently find a cheap dyno day I'll probably throw it on just to know though.
What size converter did you go with?
3000
My 99 z28 ran 12.7. stock with 3.73 and 3,000 stall. Stock motor.
It's fascinating how much variance there is amongst the same engine and car. You might have one of the faster ones (or maybe mine is lacking, who knows).
@@tampabaybuilds6825 that was with radial drag tires about 15 years ago. I sold the car and regret it all the time. I miss that car!
@@GPgman I just sold this car 2 weeks ago! I loved it, but it was time to move to something else.
I want to run my, Trans Am at, Bradenton!! 😆😆😆
What size stall did u go with?
3000 stall
I'm confused on why you're only running low 12s at 110 with a H/C setup man? High DA? You should be deep in the 11s trapping 120+. Is your tune right? Hurt motor??
Great video either way.
Yeah I was a bit shocked as well. I blame the conservative cam that I went with.
Yes definitely can and stall size with a 228/228 600 lift cam and 35-3800 stall you would run 11.50-70
I see you haven’t done a video in a long time. Hope all is well.
Surprised it's not faster than that I have a 2011 Camaro SS automatic with no converter just bolt ons and I run 12 4 at 115. No cam about to install 3400 Circle D converter in should be deep in the 11 on slicks
You need a higher stall converter.
Maybe you need more converter
TampaBay Builds - who does the work on your car? I know Jeremy tuned it but what shop are you using?
Pinellas performance Automotive in Clearwater off of Sunset Point Rd. His name is Tom and he does great work and is super knowledgable, talked me through my whole build and was always there for questions. Highly recommend.
I noticed u were shifting at 6k rpm, with a cam you should be shifting at 6500 at least. Also the gears you have are not great for racing, maybe if u are still trying to save gas. I’d do 3.73 if u want to go faster. I know you aren’t worried too much about the track time but you spent some money and didn’t get full potential out of it when you could have bought different parts for the same amount and went faster. Still a nice car though and great video.
What stall are u running?
Pro Torque 3,000
You have to practice more on shifting in launching So you can get The Times that you are reading about Maybe Lake 50 more times you gota live in the track👍🏼🏎🚗🚦
shifting early
The fact that a decent converter will make a 1/2 sec difference on a stock car doesnt mean there will be a higher difference on a modified car.
Rear gear is still the stock ratio?
Stock was 3.23, it's now 3.42. The 6 speeds are 3.42 stock.
TampaBay Builds my TA came factory with 3.42 in an auto
TampaBay Builds you should have gone deeper with the gear 373 410 342 is to high lower gears will keep you in your power band longer especially with a Cam and heads car
That oil pressure looks a bit low...
Those are nice ETs and mph. For a street driven car, in my opinion, to increase track performance you will decrease street manners/fun. You are/were at a good point to leave it alone?
what tires are you running?
I'm running hancook ventus V12s. 265 70 r18
TampaBay Builds did you have to do any fabricating work to the rear in order to make the tires fit?
No fabrication at all. They fit nicely
You need a lower gear ratio at least 4.10s
What tires?
265 hancook ventus V12s
wats the cam specs. ?
216/224 .551 .551 15 LSA
I don’t think the size of the cam is the issue ihe is not reving it high enough when you put a cam of his size on a 115 it carries power way high I always tell people to get a 110-112 lsa for a street/ strip car especially with a stall so the power band is lower in the rpm and it becomes more of a peaky cam but that’s what you want 115 starts the cam sooner and ends later in the rpm 115lsa is for no stall or easy idle for tuning but on a 110lsa it’s a monster of a cam and you don’t have to rev as high to get all the power
Thanks for the input. LSA has always been one of those mysteries to me, all I knew was I wanted to minimize lope so I went went with the higher LSA.
TampaBay Builds I feel ya i like small cams on 110-112 lsa so that the cam gives everything sooner makes it more peaky and smaller power band more of a all or nothing type cam on a dyno you should be able to see were your cam falls off and I bet your Hanna shift 200rpm or more then you are now and that can drop you another half a second
good info here on LSA.
small LSA = choppy bump, N/A power band style
bigger LSA = forced induction, making most of it's steam up top.
Camshaft duration dictates powerband. LSA is mostly just for the idle
What size cam?
216/224 .551 .551 15LSA
I don’t think the size of the cam is the issue ihe is not reving it high enough when you put a can of his size on a 115 it carries power way high I always tell people to get a 110-112 lsa for a street/ strip car especially with a stall so the power band is lower and it becomes more of a peaky cam but that’s what you want 115 starts the cam sooner and ends later in the rpm
Tires?
265 Hancock ventus V12s
Done anything to the car lately? I agree, with heads and cam you should have been in the 11s. I took a full second off from 13.2 to 12.2 with an ss3800 and nitto drags, 1.70 60'. Still had the 2.73s, just lid and catback. I would launch at 3500 rpms. ua-cam.com/video/G_FVfZlGVmM/v-deo.html
Mph isn’t important lol I’ve seen cars run 8s at 145 but I’ve also seen them run 8s at 160 just depends where your power is, down low or on the big end.
Need a bigger stall
Seems like a waste of money for 12's. I got a 300zx twin turbo with a downpipe and tune running similar times.
I really hope my Camaro will be fast. It's a 2001 z28 with 6.0 lq4 swap, cam (551 lift, 269/278 duration), ls1 intake, stock lq4 ported heads, and y pipe. I'll be done in about a week this car better be well over 400 at the wheels!
ua-cam.com/video/M7TTgQlPO18/v-deo.html link to the video.
Trans brake
Get flaps
That cam and converter needs atleast 373 to 410 gears to take full advantage
Is that in the case of the dig only ? How about street racing and rolling drag race ?
@@SkyKngiht would be for dig and street passes
If you would of bought a good stall you would of been in the 11s
What would you consider a good stall? Pro torque spec'd out the stall for me based on my engine mods.
@@tampabaybuilds6825 Yank, FTI & Circle D. I'd bet money you switch to one of their converters and you would 60' better
@@mikemaness6804 Nothing wrong with the brand converter its just a 3000 stall is mild. People run 3200-4000 stalls even in stock Ls1s because thats where those engines make power. I thought when I bought my 00 SS the 2800 Vig stall I had was awesome, until I went with a Yank 3600. Huge difference in performance and no real difference in driveability. Same with the cam its very mild, but thats what happens when you start modding you always want more. A 224r or 228r cam from texas speed would be completely streetable and make alot more power, not to mention his 115 LSA isn't great for the low end.
Mph doesn't win races. Et does.