I have two sets of wheels for my gravel bike: one with knobbier tyres for off road, and one with tyres suitable for road. The two best takeaways from this are matching cassettes/hubs and matching brake rotors. The latter makes so much sense, but to be fair, I never even considered the effect of different rotors on brake pads. In the end...for me mind you...I still have a dedicated roadie because my gravel bike is not high-end so it's considerably heavier. Perhaps when I look to upgrade my gravel bike I'll look for something lighter. Thanks for an informative vlog. Hats off to your excellent bike shop in Girona.
1x is fine for most recreational riders and even racers who have a steady diet of crits. I run different cassettes between my road and gravel wheels. The only thing I change between wheels are the rotors. If both wheel sets run the same hub there should be little need for adjustment. For the majority of riders a gravel bike with 2 sets of wheels works very well.
I have two wheel sets for my Trek Boone with Shimano Di2 1X (42T chain ring). One has 11-40 cassette and the other has 11-36 cassette. I have never had to adjust anything to use either. Never used shims to brake rotors or cassettes. Bike can do gravel and road fine.
There was a triathlon contest in Finland. One contestant used an old steel military bike to make a statement (that it is not about the equipment). He achieved 26km/h average speed on 180km route. Did not use wetsuit either.
Thanks for the comment Phil. The point is that you might not need to do this, but some will. Do it once at the very start and never have to worry about it after that.
I have 48/31 with 11-40 in the rear. Put Continental GP5000 32c on it. The only problem when riding iyour roadie buddy is you have to pedal at higher cadence than your Roadie buddy . On the positive side, your buddy breathes harder than you on a steep climb.
I have that setup in my open up. Same cassette, hub, and rotors. Painless swap every time. I also have a race road bike, but otherwise you can do everything with one bike.
I have 2 sets of wheels and run a 44T on Front and a 9-50 for rear and have never been dropped on a road ride due to gearing. Only due to lack of legs. If only we could make mountain bike could be so flexible. But, then I wouldn't have 3 of them.
That's al lot more trouble, especially if you're running tubeless. I swap wheels and cassette, takes me about 5 mins. Try changing both tires in 5 mins ;)
I was thinking about getting a Cervelo aspero with same wheel set with a mullet set up for both road and gravel, I wasn’t all that crazy after all, my bike shop can’t wait to give it a go cause they think it can be done
Hookless has to be one dumbass concept in my opinion. Why remove a tried and tested safety net all manufacturers stick too? I hope people wise up and don’t be like sheep… remember PF bottom brackets? Yes. Exactly. Case closed. Nice mechanic, guys a proper lad!
i dont get why this always comes up, there are so many issues with doing this and it is pointless. first of all you need exactly the same ratios on both wheels because otherwise the length of the chain is never perfect. then the gearing: 1 by on the road with the same ratios as 1 by on the gravel you are always heavily compromising. then the swapping part itself, if you swap out wheels you always have to realign the calipers to avoid brake rub, you can never get it perfectly for both sets. and the gravelframes also suck aerodynamically.
The aerodynamic advantages are noticeable but overvalued, and if you look at this specific bike/high and/or end gravel bikes they are already pretty aero. Most gains are to be made in your position on the bike, and this is where the crux is: is your position on the gravel bike good for racing or are you too upright. I tend to be able to sit in the drops much longer on the gravel bike for one, so that compensates for the lower handlebars on my racing bike.
I'm not stuck in the past. If there's a better "thing" or better way to do something, I'm on it. But c'mon. 1x, hookless, and tubeless are just stupid. Fad-ish, clique-ish kind of stupid with make-believe benefits or benefits so small they're easily outweighed by the downsides.
I would say 1x is a real option depending on what you do/where you are: in the Netherlands swapping out for a bigger crankset on the road is also easily done. But I agree on most other things.
1x are lower maintenance, lighter, and more aerodynamic. With the range offered by modern groupsets, the 2x will eventually follow the 3x into irrelevance.
I have two sets of wheels for my gravel bike: one with knobbier tyres for off road, and one with tyres suitable for road. The two best takeaways from this are matching cassettes/hubs and matching brake rotors. The latter makes so much sense, but to be fair, I never even considered the effect of different rotors on brake pads.
In the end...for me mind you...I still have a dedicated roadie because my gravel bike is not high-end so it's considerably heavier. Perhaps when I look to upgrade my gravel bike I'll look for something lighter.
Thanks for an informative vlog. Hats off to your excellent bike shop in Girona.
1x is fine for most recreational riders and even racers who have a steady diet of crits. I run different cassettes between my road and gravel wheels. The only thing I change between wheels are the rotors. If both wheel sets run the same hub there should be little need for adjustment. For the majority of riders a gravel bike with 2 sets of wheels works very well.
Short answer yes! I often put road wheels on my 1x S Works Crux and my average is still 20mph!
I have two wheel sets for my Trek Boone with Shimano Di2 1X (42T chain ring). One has 11-40 cassette and the other has 11-36 cassette. I have never had to adjust anything to use either. Never used shims to brake rotors or cassettes. Bike can do gravel and road fine.
There was a triathlon contest in Finland. One contestant used an old steel military bike to make a statement (that it is not about the equipment). He achieved 26km/h average speed on 180km route. Did not use wetsuit either.
Bravo. Marginal gains are only
For the elite level. If you not there it matters shit!
The whole point is to make things simple. If you have to start switching rotars and adding shims, who is going to bother?
Thanks for the comment Phil. The point is that you might not need to do this, but some will. Do it once at the very start and never have to worry about it after that.
Great tip about tightening the thru axle. Cheers.
No problem 👍 thanks for watching Gary.
I love my Wilier Rave SLR. Have it in road configuration and a set of gravel wheels with same cassette. Great set up.
great video Lawrence
I have 48/31 with 11-40 in the rear. Put Continental GP5000 32c on it. The only problem when riding iyour roadie buddy is you have to pedal at higher cadence than your Roadie buddy . On the positive side, your buddy breathes harder than you on a steep climb.
Yes
I was going to do the same but, then, I installed permanently fenders on my Mason Bokeh.
I have that setup in my open up. Same cassette, hub, and rotors. Painless swap every time. I also have a race road bike, but otherwise you can do everything with one bike.
Exactly this, if you are racing on the road it’s the only exception as to why this set up might not work!
Like to see a ride comparison. Speed differences between gravel bike with road wherls on the road.
Idk what it is, but that's a good looking wheel! Cool silver cassettes. Nice.
Thanks 👍 they are both from Fulcrums great range of carbon race wheels.
I have 2 sets of wheels and run a 44T on Front and a 9-50 for rear and have never been dropped on a road ride due to gearing. Only due to lack of legs. If only we could make mountain bike could be so flexible. But, then I wouldn't have 3 of them.
Why not just keep the same wheels and just change the tyres 🤷🏻♂️
That's al lot more trouble, especially if you're running tubeless. I swap wheels and cassette, takes me about 5 mins. Try changing both tires in 5 mins ;)
I was thinking about getting a Cervelo aspero with same wheel set with a mullet set up for both road and gravel, I wasn’t all that crazy after all, my bike shop can’t wait to give it a go cause they think it can be done
great video thank you guys
Glad you enjoyed it! Cheers mate
Good tips...except for the ratio thing. You may be happier with different cassette on road and gravel wheels.
Yes, you are right depending on how fast you want to be going. Above 45kph I can’t pedal but it’s really a small sacrifice.
Hookless has to be one dumbass concept in my opinion. Why remove a tried and tested safety net all manufacturers stick too?
I hope people wise up and don’t be like sheep… remember PF bottom brackets? Yes. Exactly. Case closed. Nice mechanic, guys a proper lad!
i dont get why this always comes up, there are so many issues with doing this and it is pointless. first of all you need exactly the same ratios on both wheels because otherwise the length of the chain is never perfect. then the gearing: 1 by on the road with the same ratios as 1 by on the gravel you are always heavily compromising. then the swapping part itself, if you swap out wheels you always have to realign the calipers to avoid brake rub, you can never get it perfectly for both sets. and the gravelframes also suck aerodynamically.
The aerodynamic advantages are noticeable but overvalued, and if you look at this specific bike/high and/or end gravel bikes they are already pretty aero. Most gains are to be made in your position on the bike, and this is where the crux is: is your position on the gravel bike good for racing or are you too upright. I tend to be able to sit in the drops much longer on the gravel bike for one, so that compensates for the lower handlebars on my racing bike.
I'm not stuck in the past. If there's a better "thing" or better way to do something, I'm on it. But c'mon. 1x, hookless, and tubeless are just stupid. Fad-ish, clique-ish kind of stupid with make-believe benefits or benefits so small they're easily outweighed by the downsides.
When you have to say that you're not stuck in the past you just self-fiving yourself. It does not count
Can you run tubed tires at 30PSI? Case closed.
I would say 1x is a real option depending on what you do/where you are: in the Netherlands swapping out for a bigger crankset on the road is also easily done. But I agree on most other things.
1x are lower maintenance, lighter, and more aerodynamic. With the range offered by modern groupsets, the 2x will eventually follow the 3x into irrelevance.
Nope
Wut?
Not for everyone Connor 😬
Cheers for watching !
60mm Fulcrums? I just bought 80mm im a little worried about them in the wind, but i ride 98% flats with not much wind. Praying ill be okay haha
The 80mm look incredible mate, in cross winds they’ll be hard to handle but most the time you’ll be alright. 🥳🤝🏽