mate ive got a built up concrete base in my garden what can i do with it its been oeft like it as my sheds been taken down and i dont know what to do with that now as i aint a diy person lol hopefully you can get back to me with some advice thank you
With the installation of the floor insulation boards, my preference is to screw them down while the adhesive is still wet so the boards follow the contours of the subfloor, then correct level with self-levelling compound. Imo the installation is stronger this way.
Just a tip, also need to do an Insulation resistance test between live and neutral to earth on the unrolled mat cable, after the continuity test, to check that the heating cables are not shorting to earth or damaged from the factory. Had a job once where a trowel had cut a mat, after all the tiles were down and it tripped the RCD and nothing could be done to fix it
Great work & finish! I used 'Nuance' boards on my shower 3 yrs ago. Easy to clean and far less chance of water penetrating through tiles etc which had happened on previous bathroom.
Love the videos! Really helping me along my DIY journey. Have sorted most of my snagging list on my newbuild watching your videos. Really easy to follow and informative! Thanks again!
Good content as per usual. I find it interesting that you don’t use the corner trims. I always do but tend to put a small bead of silicone down the flat and internal edge and the bottom where it meets the tray or bath, but like you have always seen potential for leaks👍🏻
@@TheDIYGuy1 Quick question, do you think the bottom trim for the panels sitting on the bathtub or shower tray, are just gimmicks and not worth installing? I've actually been looking at shower panels and saw that the warranty is void if you don't install them the way they say you should.
I’ve fitted lots of shower panels and never use the seals either, I’ve been to bathrooms where that system has been used and found blown boards as a result. On trays and baths I will lay a bead of clear silicone where the board meets the surface so it squishes out, clean off the excess and then seal again when everything is installed.
Great work as always. I wouldn't put laminated plywood anywhere near a shower but that's my 2p worth. You could use 1200x600 ceramic tiles to make tiling easier and produce a similar result. Cheaper too.
What would you advise if laying directly onto a concrete floor, and the the heated floor and tiling is being done retrospectively to a new kitchen already in place? Usual changing of plans after majority of work has been done. Sure you know what I mean 😅 thank you
Bathroom coming along nicely, was wondering if your floor had been badly out of level would you have just used more tile adhesive. Also when laying the heating mat why does it matter if it goes under the toilet or vanity unit, is it because it damaged by fixings. Look forward to seeing it all done.
Great video! Just curious, if you use the laminate boards, heating Mats and tiles, is there a risk that the level of the bathroom floor is above the landing floor and how would you combat that? Thanks!
Superb series! thanks! I'm using a similar foam backer board (abacus elements) on solid masonry walls, trying to work out if dot and dab then mechanical fix or full coverage with tile adhesive is better? Is there any approach you'd recommend?
I’m curious, are you using this as the primary heat source? will it heat the room or just to keep the chill off the cold tiles? Love the videos btw, helping me a lot with jobs around the house 👍🏻
I haven't seen these panels up close but they do look good, and quick to install. I do worry about maintenance though. When my bath needs resealing I can scrape the old silicone out with little fear of damaging the tiles. How do you think this would compare with these boards? Also if silicone has failed on tiles, water may get behind but won't damage the tiles. With this WHEN the silicone fails, will it blow the plywood? I assume fixing to them is easy though as they are ply based. 😅
@@TheDIYGuy1 thanks, we're in the process of a full reno of the bathroom either way (as it was 30 years old and falling apart!).. I just want to make sure the contractors are doing a top job!
You can't really level up the floor backing boards, the flexible adhesive is spread at a constant thickness. Plus there is no point, as you poured self levelling compound on top of the jacko boards. For people who have never done this, I would have pointed out that the bathroom floor will now have a small step/height difference from the room outside (obvious, but some people don't think of this). As for the shower/wall panels. I would recommend Bushboard Nuance boards (not cheap though), they use a polymer 100% water resistant core. Virtually every other brand utilise a wooden core which can suffer if exposed to water/leaks. You can get solid PVC panels, but these are thin and are more of a budget panels and only really suitable for smooth/straight walls. You should have mentioned leaving a gap at the bottom of the wall panels against the floor/tray/bath. This is to allow for the sealant to accommodate any movement (as per most manufacturers instruction).
How will you address the floor height difference, I’m trying to minimise the amount of subfloor material but still need a way to get a channel for the conduit
I used similar aqua boards. I used the internal corner trim. But not the bath trim and regret it, the beauty of using the trim is that the silicon seal is behind the trim therefore when it starts to go yellow it’s hidden.
Cutting it fine with the 10 days cam But these are the things people need to be aware of, missed deliveries, things taking longer than you thought, being knackered etc Ask me how I know 🤣
No floor waste to minimise any excess water that goes on the tiles. A level floor allows any water to flow out of the bathroom. The floor then needs to be sloped to the waste drain. The required slope is dependent on the local standards.
Glued down laminated boards in a wet room? That a very smart way to ensure you can film another renovation series in about 5 years time! I usually love you work, but I feel like in this video you are letting go of the high standards you usually have.
Find out if I managed it in 10 days in part 3 coming soon 😊
Respect bro
mate ive got a built up concrete base in my garden what can i do with it its been oeft like it as my sheds been taken down and i dont know what to do with that now as i aint a diy person lol hopefully you can get back to me with some advice thank you
Great tip with the foam dam 6:50
👌 sometimes it’s the simplest solutions that work so well
With the installation of the floor insulation boards, my preference is to screw them down while the adhesive is still wet so the boards follow the contours of the subfloor, then correct level with self-levelling compound. Imo the installation is stronger this way.
Just a tip, also need to do an Insulation resistance test between live and neutral to earth on the unrolled mat cable, after the continuity test, to check that the heating cables are not shorting to earth or damaged from the factory. Had a job once where a trowel had cut a mat, after all the tiles were down and it tripped the RCD and nothing could be done to fix it
👍
How would you do that?
Thank you - looking forward to a series on installation of a Wet Underfloor heating system connected up a Air Source heat pump
Beaut job tiling that floor mate!
Great work & finish!
I used 'Nuance' boards on my shower 3 yrs ago. Easy to clean and far less chance of water penetrating through tiles etc which had happened on previous bathroom.
Thanks for sharing! 👍
Love these renovation episodes, great content 👍🏻👍🏻
Glad you like them!
Great video, bathroom installer myself and I never use internal trims on boards either, better finish with silicone and never leak unlike trims 👍🏻
Love the videos! Really helping me along my DIY journey. Have sorted most of my snagging list on my newbuild watching your videos. Really easy to follow and informative! Thanks again!
Great to hear!
Good content as per usual. I find it interesting that you don’t use the corner trims. I always do but tend to put a small bead of silicone down the flat and internal edge and the bottom where it meets the tray or bath, but like you have always seen potential for leaks👍🏻
Thanks for sharing
Thanks!
Your welcome and thanks to you too!
@@TheDIYGuy1 Quick question, do you think the bottom trim for the panels sitting on the bathtub or shower tray, are just gimmicks and not worth installing? I've actually been looking at shower panels and saw that the warranty is void if you don't install them the way they say you should.
Personally I think they are a waste of time. If the board is sealed correctly they make no difference. Just my opinion 👍
I’ve fitted lots of shower panels and never use the seals either, I’ve been to bathrooms where that system has been used and found blown boards as a result. On trays and baths I will lay a bead of clear silicone where the board meets the surface so it squishes out, clean off the excess and then seal again when everything is installed.
@@diddywright6165 Thanks for your input, much appreciated.
Great video. Looking forward to doing this in my bathrooms!
Thank you for the heating mat installation instructions
Good video again, very useful tips, and I learned a new word too (Heighth) so well worth the watch.
Glad it was helpful!
Great work as always. I wouldn't put laminated plywood anywhere near a shower but that's my 2p worth. You could use 1200x600 ceramic tiles to make tiling easier and produce a similar result. Cheaper too.
Great video as always, thanks for educating us!!
My pleasure!
What would you advise if laying directly onto a concrete floor, and the the heated floor and tiling is being done retrospectively to a new kitchen already in place? Usual changing of plans after majority of work has been done. Sure you know what I mean 😅 thank you
Did you run a separate supply for the thermostat? And does that come with the underfloor heating map? Cheers.
Great video and information, always great to watch your stuff.
Much appreciated!
Excellent, I've learnt some things and bathroom is looking great so far 👍❤️🇬🇧
👍 cheers
You're getting there. Looks lovely.
Thank you! 😊
Looking brill, great job so far!
Thank you! Cheers!
Looking very nice mate 👍👍👍
Bathroom coming along nicely, was wondering if your floor had been badly out of level would you have just used more tile adhesive. Also when laying the heating mat why does it matter if it goes under the toilet or vanity unit, is it because it damaged by fixings. Look forward to seeing it all done.
Great video! Just curious, if you use the laminate boards, heating Mats and tiles, is there a risk that the level of the bathroom floor is above the landing floor and how would you combat that? Thanks!
Superb series! thanks! I'm using a similar foam backer board (abacus elements) on solid masonry walls, trying to work out if dot and dab then mechanical fix or full coverage with tile adhesive is better? Is there any approach you'd recommend?
What a hard work 👏👏👏
Thanks
Excellent job👌
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi. As always very good content and well explained, many thanks.
My pleasure!
Great video thanks for your time and walkthrough🎉
No problem 👍
I’m curious, are you using this as the primary heat source? will it heat the room or just to keep the chill off the cold tiles? Love the videos btw, helping me a lot with jobs around the house 👍🏻
I haven't seen these panels up close but they do look good, and quick to install.
I do worry about maintenance though. When my bath needs resealing I can scrape the old silicone out with little fear of damaging the tiles.
How do you think this would compare with these boards?
Also if silicone has failed on tiles, water may get behind but won't damage the tiles. With this WHEN the silicone fails, will it blow the plywood?
I assume fixing to them is easy though as they are ply based. 😅
You’d need to be a little more careful scraping them. Fixing too them is pretty easy for light stuff like roll holders etc
Maybe I missed it, but did you mention anything about getting power to underfloor heating mat? How did you go about wiring it from the bathroom?
same question here?
Strange how I went to search to see if you had a video on just this topic and you uploaded the video 39 minutes ago!
Haha was meant to be 😊
Wondering why you haven't done any water proofing, especially on the insulated floor board joins, fixing points and corners?
Love the videos! Do you recommend any waterproof membrane under the bath? I've had constant leaking with my bathroom which ruined our kitchen below!
No I don’t recommend that. I would advise spending the time fixing the leak. Thanks
@@TheDIYGuy1 thanks, we're in the process of a full reno of the bathroom either way (as it was 30 years old and falling apart!).. I just want to make sure the contractors are doing a top job!
@@nen3487do it yourself. Don't trust contracts.
👍👍👍. Thank you
Your welcome
How would you change the bath mixer tap on the bath if you needed to? Take the bath out I assume?
Great video again.. was tgat yoir work van in the back ground??
How did you power the UFH? Was it a spur from the ring main or did it go back to the consumer unit?
It’s powered by a 13a fused spur from a double socket on the landing which is part of a ring.
Thanks for the quick reply.
You can't really level up the floor backing boards, the flexible adhesive is spread at a constant thickness. Plus there is no point, as you poured self levelling compound on top of the jacko boards. For people who have never done this, I would have pointed out that the bathroom floor will now have a small step/height difference from the room outside (obvious, but some people don't think of this).
As for the shower/wall panels. I would recommend Bushboard Nuance boards (not cheap though), they use a polymer 100% water resistant core. Virtually every other brand utilise a wooden core which can suffer if exposed to water/leaks. You can get solid PVC panels, but these are thin and are more of a budget panels and only really suitable for smooth/straight walls.
You should have mentioned leaving a gap at the bottom of the wall panels against the floor/tray/bath. This is to allow for the sealant to accommodate any movement (as per most manufacturers instruction).
why can you not put tile adhesive directly onto the heating mesh?
Can but it makes it hard and easy to nick the wires
How do you ensure the insulation is level? Do you tap the grout down if it's not?
I would like to know the underfloor heating, Thank you!
Thermosphere 👍
On backer board u only use one thing either screw on or tile adhesive.
I don’t, I like to use both.
Why ? Read the MI .
How will you address the floor height difference, I’m trying to minimise the amount of subfloor material but still need a way to get a channel for the conduit
The wall boards look like a lot of effort vs tiling!
I used similar aqua boards. I used the internal corner trim. But not the bath trim and regret it, the beauty of using the trim is that the silicon seal is behind the trim therefore when it starts to go yellow it’s hidden.
Ah but Dow 765+ will never yellow, give it a try. It’s the only silicone I will ever use
I will give it a whirl! Thanks
👍
Bathroom amazing ,a lot of work but you can see the effect
🙌 absolutely, wait until you see the next one 😊
dont you need to test the insulation in uk ?
"Heighth"? Is that a local word? ;) Looks good.
Cheers
No mention of electrical work in a special location being notifiable. How is this getting signed off?
It’s getting signed off 👍
That's about most remodeling then.
How much did this cost?
I want to know too!
Presumably you are hoping there will never be any leaks in any pipes under those floorboards?
Of course he hopes that.
Have you got any sponsorship forms for the w**kathon, Cameron? 😂😂
😂👍
I thought the requirements for all electrical UFH was a fused spur, i don’t think you had one
Yes I did. 13a fused spur in the landing, coming from a double socket which is part of a ring.
No Problem, you didn’t film that part and noting water just being safe than sorry
I assume you’ve released these out of order as we’ve already seen you lay the tiles last week
Yes because one is a standalone tiling video and the other is a 3 part series.
What was the size of the supply cable where did you get that from?
2.5mm supplied via a 13a fused spur
Cutting it fine with the 10 days cam
But these are the things people need to be aware of, missed deliveries, things taking longer than you thought, being knackered etc
Ask me how I know 🤣
Your absolutely right! 👍 I had to put some very long days in
Or just use ditra heat alot better
other dude looks like oliver reed!
😂
No floor waste to minimise any excess water that goes on the tiles. A level floor allows any water to flow out of the bathroom. The floor then needs to be sloped to the waste drain. The required slope is dependent on the local standards.
It’s not a wet room. There won’t be water on the floor apart from the odd drop
You have just lost a fair old chunk out ur bathroom putting board up pal?
It's a bathroom!
Glued down laminated boards in a wet room? That a very smart way to ensure you can film another renovation series in about 5 years time! I usually love you work, but I feel like in this video you are letting go of the high standards you usually have.
These boards are tried and tested and are designed for this application. There shouldn’t be any issues.
Good job! Although...mispronouncing 'height' is a struggle.
Thanks. Mispronouncing height a struggle? 😄
Heighth is a word.
@@jj22848no it isn’t. Google is your friend…..
…
You’ve been robbed if it was £1800 for the boards
Love the content, but for the love of god stop prouncing it heiff 🤣
👍
12:30
@@TheDIYGuy1I think he’s being a bit Norfolkist mate! 👍🏻
Episode 3 Spoiler : He does indeed finish and to top it off he learns how to pronounce adhesive.