Watching this in 2022...We remembered watching your video back in 2016, and now that we have a well, we’re using this information on our homestead. Thank you Scott ❤️
We have a lot of problems with iron bacteria in our well, so shocking it is a little different. This last time that I did a shock, I filled a 1000 L tank with water and added 20 L of 20% bleach, mixed it well, then drained it back down the well. This is to allow the shock solution to work its way into your water formation and really ensure that you have everything disinfected. Let that sit overnight, then run the all the taps until you smell the chlorine, then lat that sit for the day, or longer if possible. After that, you flush out as much as you can to the outdoors, you really don't want to run too much chlorine into the septic system. Then flush out the taps and you're good to go. A gallon of household bleach may not be sufficient to get a full disinfection of the system, and I'd rather use too much than not enough.
I think you may be using the wrong chemical for your perticular well. Try using a non-corrosive Sulfamic Acid like the NuWell 100 goo.gl/sCoH6E or the NuWell 110 for larger wells goo.gl/vGvuwh That, in combination with the NuWell 310 Bio Acid goo.gl/wirvGL should prevent this from happening anymore. The 310 is an acid enhancer that has biocide characteristics and will help eliminate and prevent your bacteria problem.
Thanks for the video, I have read many ways to do this. My home inspector had advised to just run all faucets until the bleach smell came through, and then shut water off for 24 hrs, etc....he never mentioned running a hose back into the well casing directly off the bladder tank. If the bleach smell is coming through a faucet in the home (the last one on the line), wouldn't that mean the pump and bladder tank have already been saturated?
Daniel DeMaio you shouldn't run it through your house, that is if you have septic. You run it through a hose connected to the sample tap on the pressure tank. If you don't have septic, then you can run it through the house. If you have a whole house filter, you should have check valves and should be able to bypass. If not, don't run it through the house
All of my drinkable/cooking well water goes through my Big Berky filter in the kitchen. A gallon of bleach goes into the well once every six months. Then flush all the cold water faucets until the bleack odor dissipates.
Thanks for the video and links. We are just in the process of buying a home on a well and were thinking we would have to shell out $ to have the water tested and this kit price will save us a lot.
Do you have a formula for using chlorine dioxide to disinfect a well? Since it has more than twice the oxidative capacity and is more than ten times more soluble in water than bleach, it seems like that would be a good method as well. Especially since municipal water systems use it. I appreciate all of your videos!
I'm thinking the same thing Jimmy. Great question!! This video is so old I really wonder if Scott will even see the comments. Did you ever try email with him directly? I would love a reply to this or any links that you may have found for CDS well disinfectant process.
Done this before works as advertised. We bought a house that had sit vacant for a while. And yes the water made me sick. Did what you did in the video. No proplems after that. Curious about your flushing after wards. When I flushed my house plumbing the water came out with a black discoloration. Did you have the same effect? Maybe my house was like that because it had set vacant?
oldpukindog Dark colors or black are common when doing it as the bleach will pull some of the minerals out of solution leaving them as particles in the water. Best to change any filters after doing this and letting the water run clear. Rust read is another very common color to see if you have a high iron low other mineral water.
FYI, Take all the faucet screens off before you do this! The screens will clog up with black slim coming off the inside of your cold water line from the well. Oh, by the way, don't forget to flush your washing machine our your significant other is going to be very very upset when she does the colored clothes. I found this out the hard way!
Well, glad to see that I kinda did it right, but mostly by accident. Had a mouse get into the system, after closing the entry point I did a gallon of bleach, ran my garden hose back to the well to wash down the well casing. I wanted to keep the solution in the system as long as I could. The question I had was why did you specify just the cold? I ran it through the hot as well, mostly because we have a tankless heater, and wanted to keep that clean.
***** I was told by my home inspector that the only time one needed to run the hot taps would be if a house had been vacant for a long period (as mine was when I bought it). Subsequent treatments only needed to be the cold water lines. Since the source of the hot water is the cold well water, as long as you flush both hot and cold afterwards it should clean out all lines (this process is primarily disinfecting the well anyway). I have a large hot water tank though, so not the same system as yours (and I am not an expert in this - hopefully Scott will correct me if I am wrong).
roseinthepines Thanks for the info, thats interesting, my concern was to make sure I disinfected the entire system after a breach. The well had been compromised, and we noticed while brushing our teeth you could smell dead mouse. If you just puked in your own mouth at that statement, you are not alone. ;-)
roseinthepines Yea, we used to have a shallow artesian well that would give us that 'issue' every five years or so. We ended up drilling a new well (with a casing) after a winter freeze, and I failed to put a check valve into the overflow. (Hey, it heads down hill, and is buried three feet down.....) Apparently, a mole found its way into the open line..... Yea, good times.
***** Definitely one of my fears with a recent bad mouse problem in the house (ate through drywall), and now rats in the yard. My old well does not have a cap so we have screening stuffed in there for the time being. Pump house is pretty well sealed but the rats do burrow. Good luck...flush everything!!!!
I am in the business of water well service and repair and I can assure you that a gallon of bleach will not in fact chlorinate your water well. It might do a good enough job to get a sample test passed but will not work long term . You would have to use several gallons and pump it down through a trim pipe to get it all the way to the water source . We use a granulated chlorine that will fall to the bottom of the well,{ where bacteria mostly grows}, then dissolve and chlorinate the well from the bottom up. I highly recommend you call a professional for this action that will know how much to use and can inform you on how long the chlorine should sit in the well. But liquid will not work , it will run down the side walls inside the well casing and will dissipate before it reaches the water supply . We argue with our local health departments about this all the time , until we explain it to them.
Very true. Great advice. There is a lot of misinformation out there. I am glad a professional such as you is taking the time to share their knowledge. It is also important to keep the PH level low enough to effectively kill bacteria as well. Have you ever tied using a chlorine enhancer to keep the PH at a steady 6.5 and increase the effectiveness of the chlorine? Check out NuWell 410 goo.gl/rEooMJ It might save you a considerable amount of work and help you offer a better product to your customers.
It appears that the water did not run that long before you started putting it into the well, wouldn't the bladder tank have to be emptied, looks like its at least 60-80 gallons in the bladder. Once you do that how long does that last?
The place I used to work at the well got bleached every 6 months if it needed it or not used 12% bleach cycled it through the system let it sit for 24 hours. The 12% is nasty stuff eats your clothes instantly lol, the water is tested monthly never had any issues. I think its a good idea for anybody that's on a well should bleach it at least once a year its good preventative maintenance.
Yes, Chlorine is very corrosive. If it ate your clothes just imagine what it was doing to that well every 6 months for 24hrs. This will begin to eat the steel. Try using a non-corrosive Sulfamic Acid like the NuWell 100 goo.gl/sCoH6E or the NuWell 110 for larger wells goo.gl/vGvuwh That, in combination with the NuWell 310 Bio Acid goo.gl/wirvGL should prevent this from happening anymore. The 310 is an acid enhancer that has biocide characteristics and will help eliminate and prevent your bacteria problem.
This is the video I was looking for. Unfortunately, I was born and raised in civilization, our water came from the local water dept. Now I live in a place, that has a well. I can't drink the water from that well. Let me rephrase that, I won't drink the water from that well. However, my dog has to drink that well water, and that concerns me. There is so much limestone in this water, the kitchen sink looks like it is made out of coral. I know it is a good idea to clorox a well, once a year for ecoli. Your video was very helpful, and I did what you did. When I first looked on UA-cam, on how to disinfect a well, there was some broad sitting next to a 6in pipe sticking out of the ground, as was the case in most of the other videos. Ah, no honey, my well is a little different, there is a pump, 30 ft. of PVC, a 60gal. tank. Must be a different manufacturer. As far as the limestone goes, I was able to reduce the amount of limestone by adding a mainline water filter that is mounted on the wall outside, is connected to a hosebib, and contains a 1 micron filter. The dogs water comes into the house in 1 gal. bottles. The filter is supposed to go on the main water line into the house, and changed, once a month. If I had put it on the mainline into the house, I would have to change the filter every 20min. Now I know there are people out there saying, he must live in Florida, or maybe Florida, well he could even live in Florida. Anyway your video was very helpful, thank you. I'll just have to keep my fingers crossed, that the dog's kidneys hold out. And I do know about reverse osmosis, just a tad pricey.
Do you not have to calculate how much drawdown you have and adjust the amount of chlorine based on that? A gallon wouldn't do much if your static water line was at 25 ft and the pump was at 125 ft, versus a static water line of 30 ft and a pump at 60 ft? Wouldn't that throw the concentration way off?
***** I was thinking the same thing. Seems like there should be a formula. My dad's well is three time the depth of mine but my static water level is 100' higher plus his house is probably 100 times the square footage with all kinds of bathrooms and out buildings compared to my 26' travel trailer.
Yes. There is. You want to take 4 x the standing well volume with 200 mg/l chlorine. The best thing do to is evacuate that amount above ground and mix the solution in a tank. By pumping it back into the well you will force the mixture into the surrounding gravel and soil formation. by using NuWell 410 goo.gl/rEooMJ you can actually extend the reach of your chlorine and help remove even more of the bacteria.
Looks like you were using the concentrated Sodium Hypochlorite and sodium hydroxide (your label has the yellow band at the top like the one on my bottle I recently purchased). I cannot find a percentage of chlorine on the label. Doesn't the amount you put in a well depend on concentration and the volume of water in the well (pipe diameter x length - volume above the static water level + volume of all your plumbing)?
Most Clorox that is label as Industrial is around 6.5% sodium hypochlorite. The regular bleach for households is around 5.25%. Not much difference since you are diluting it. I would check the pH and add vinegar as needed to adjust it to around pH 7.9 since bleach is very basic and it it not effective at high pH.
BC ElginTex Compared to ppm of chlorine used in city water systems and even in pools, I believe the gallon is more than enough to do the job. In fact, I would suspect that, for the average size house with 2½ baths, it is probably over-kill if anything.
Question ? if I get the bleach into my Septic tank, How do I Re Juvinate the Septic Tank again to put back in the Bacteria that got killed off by the bleach in the Septic Tank.?
I had A dead rat floating on top of my shallow wells water when I tried removing it it disintigrated and sank. I did A gallon of chlorox bleach twice afterward seperated by a month between. This well has A galvinized liner and is only 17 feet deep with A pitcher pump on it. This was installed after bleaching I have yet to really need the water for drinking and have used it sporadically for bathing and clothes washing with no "dead" smell. In your opinion or anyone else reading this the water should be safe to drink? (I'll test it before drinking) Another question is if you have no access to bleach for whatever reason what besides boiling or A sawyer mini filter would you reccomend and would either make the water safe to drink by themselves or together? One note about the depth of my well evan during drought it never went dry just refreshed slower.
From what I've researched, I would suggest a Berkey Water Filter for drinking water. (but get your water before a salt softener if you have one - salt will destroy the Berkey filter)
dillonjc2 and steel even faster. That is why he should include - rinse the well lining to remove bleach when done. If not you may have rust in the water in the future.
Yeah. Chlorine will eat metal, not just brass. Try using a non-corrosive Sulfamic Acid like the NuWell 100 goo.gl/sCoH6E or the NuWell 110 for larger wells goo.gl/vGvuwh That, in combination with the NuWell 310 Bio Acid goo.gl/wirvGL will remove the bacteria. The 310 is an acid enhancer that has biocide characteristics and will help eliminate and prevent your bacteria problem.
Speaking of well testing, we just got our results back a few days ago. It came back with great results on microbial and heavy metals EXCEPT arsenic. It had 47 units where they wanted to see under 10. Do you have a filter recommendation? We've been drinking out of it for 17 years now.
I know this is a little late, but you want to run your well though a magnesium and iron filter, then through a sand filter where all the bacteria get trapped and eaten by the good bacteria, then though a uv sterilizer. you should test for boron in well, it can kill you. anyways good luck.
love your channel, lots of great info. question - can I use a 12 volt car battery to power my existing 12 volt well pump in lights out scenario? what do you think of this idea? seems like an inexpensive alternative. thank you for your input.
Great idea Cheryl. The GPM is usually a lot lower for these pumps but in a pinch it is a great solution. Proactive is a reliable brand of 12V pumps that we carry. They have a variety of different depth and GPM options that will meet your needs. goo.gl/wU3jwR
Last pump we had put in they did this. It took forever to get the bleach taste / smell out. Family of 4 with two teenagers and ran the crap out of the water, still.
Should be using NSF certified bleach. Looks like house hold bleach was poured in. NSF tests the "other" ingredients and determines if they are safe for human consumption. Will what you did work? Yes probably but it isn't the right way. Certified bleach is not very much more expensive. Haas is the brand we use at my work as a water operator.
Never said it wouldn't work I said it's not the correct way to do it. It isn't much more expensive and for a personal well do whatever works but for public water systems you can get in all kinds of trouble using he wrong products. Shocking the well Like this is probably ok but if he where to treat it continually for Coliform then normal bleach is a no go. Agree any bleach is good bleach in an emergency situation.
Try using this NSF 60 certified well cleaner. Its Sulfamic Acid NuWell 100 goo.gl/sCoH6E or the NuWell 110 for larger wells goo.gl/vGvuwh That, in combination with the NuWell 310 Bio Acid goo.gl/wirvGL will remove the bacteria from the well. The 310 is an acid enhancer that has biocide characteristics and will help eliminate and prevent your bacteria problem.
Above ground pumps work the same in this situation. But you are still going to have the problem of corrosion. Beach will start to eat away at your well over time. Try using a non-corosive Sulfamic Acid like the NuWell 100 goo.gl/sCoH6E or the NuWell 110 for larger wells goo.gl/vGvuwh That, in combination with the NuWell 310 Bio Acid goo.gl/wirvGL should prevent this from happening anymore. The 310 is an acid enhancer that has biocide characteristics and will help eliminate and prevent your bacteria problem.
usually I just dump a gallon of bleach down the well. then run faucets in house then let it stand overnight. then flush out in morning. is it ok not to run the hose, like you did to recirculate the water ?
You want to circulate the water and agitate the well. othewise the chlorine will sink to the bottom and cook your well casing. Chlorine is highly corrosive. It will eventually eat the steel in your well. Try using a non-corrosive Sulfamic Acid like the NuWell 100 goo.gl/sCoH6E or the NuWell 110 for larger wells goo.gl/vGvuwh That, in combination with the NuWell 310 Bio Acid goo.gl/wirvGL should prevent this from happening anymore. The 310 is an acid enhancer that has biocide characteristics and will help eliminate and prevent your bacteria problem.
I have a issue with this. I see no issues with running this mixture thru any outdoor faucets. it is a big no no to add chlorine to a drain that empties into a septic system. It will kill all the necessary Bacteria needed for that system to function properly.
I totally understand your concern with this. There are solutions to neutralizing the chlorine out of the well. A good option for this is NuWell 500 goo.gl/WZ9mfu
Watching this in 2022...We remembered watching your video back in 2016, and now that we have a well, we’re using this information on our homestead. Thank you Scott ❤️
we do our well every spring and again in the late fall just to be sure its good
We have a lot of problems with iron bacteria in our well, so shocking it is a little different. This last time that I did a shock, I filled a 1000 L tank with water and added 20 L of 20% bleach, mixed it well, then drained it back down the well. This is to allow the shock solution to work its way into your water formation and really ensure that you have everything disinfected. Let that sit overnight, then run the all the taps until you smell the chlorine, then lat that sit for the day, or longer if possible. After that, you flush out as much as you can to the outdoors, you really don't want to run too much chlorine into the septic system. Then flush out the taps and you're good to go.
A gallon of household bleach may not be sufficient to get a full disinfection of the system, and I'd rather use too much than not enough.
I think you may be using the wrong chemical for your perticular well.
Try using a non-corrosive Sulfamic Acid like the NuWell 100 goo.gl/sCoH6E
or the NuWell 110 for larger wells goo.gl/vGvuwh
That, in combination with the NuWell 310 Bio Acid goo.gl/wirvGL should prevent this from happening anymore.
The 310 is an acid enhancer that has biocide characteristics and will help eliminate and prevent your bacteria problem.
Thanks for the video, I have read many ways to do this. My home inspector had advised to just run all faucets until the bleach smell came through, and then shut water off for 24 hrs, etc....he never mentioned running a hose back into the well casing directly off the bladder tank. If the bleach smell is coming through a faucet in the home (the last one on the line), wouldn't that mean the pump and bladder tank have already been saturated?
+roseinthepines yes
shouldn't you remove any whole house filters before running it to the house?
Daniel DeMaio you shouldn't run it through your house, that is if you have septic. You run it through a hose connected to the sample tap on the pressure tank. If you don't have septic, then you can run it through the house. If you have a whole house filter, you should have check valves and should be able to bypass. If not, don't run it through the house
A man of many talents…
All of my drinkable/cooking well water goes through my Big Berky filter in the kitchen. A gallon of bleach goes into the well once every six months. Then flush all the cold water faucets until the bleack odor dissipates.
Thanks for the video and links. We are just in the process of buying a home on a well and were thinking we would have to shell out $ to have the water tested and this kit price will save us a lot.
Do you have a formula for using chlorine dioxide to disinfect a well? Since it has more than twice the oxidative capacity and is more than ten times more soluble in water than bleach, it seems like that would be a good method as well. Especially since municipal water systems use it. I appreciate all of your videos!
I'm thinking the same thing Jimmy. Great question!! This video is so old I really wonder if Scott will even see the comments. Did you ever try email with him directly? I would love a reply to this or any links that you may have found for CDS well disinfectant process.
Done this before works as advertised. We bought a house that had sit vacant for a while. And yes the water made me sick. Did what you did in the video. No proplems after that. Curious about your flushing after wards. When I flushed my house plumbing the water came out with a black discoloration. Did you have the same effect? Maybe my house was like that because it had set vacant?
oldpukindog Yeah that's most likely the settled scum from the stagnate water that got pumped out.
oldpukindog Dark colors or black are common when doing it as the bleach will pull some of the minerals out of solution leaving them as particles in the water. Best to change any filters after doing this and letting the water run clear.
Rust read is another very common color to see if you have a high iron low other mineral water.
You should draw down the pressure bladder tank with the pump off to insure the water in the tank is disinfected!
Thanks Michael - how is that done?🤔
FYI, Take all the faucet screens off before you do this! The screens will clog up with black slim coming off the inside of your cold water line from the well. Oh, by the way, don't forget to flush your washing machine our your significant other is going to be very very upset when she does the colored clothes. I found this out the hard way!
Well, glad to see that I kinda did it right, but mostly by accident. Had a mouse get into the system, after closing the entry point I did a gallon of bleach, ran my garden hose back to the well to wash down the well casing. I wanted to keep the solution in the system as long as I could. The question I had was why did you specify just the cold? I ran it through the hot as well, mostly because we have a tankless heater, and wanted to keep that clean.
***** I was told by my home inspector that the only time one needed to run the hot taps would be if a house had been vacant for a long period (as mine was when I bought it). Subsequent treatments only needed to be the cold water lines. Since the source of the hot water is the cold well water, as long as you flush both hot and cold afterwards it should clean out all lines (this process is primarily disinfecting the well anyway). I have a large hot water tank though, so not the same system as yours (and I am not an expert in this - hopefully Scott will correct me if I am wrong).
roseinthepines Thanks for the info, thats interesting, my concern was to make sure I disinfected the entire system after a breach.
The well had been compromised, and we noticed while brushing our teeth you could smell dead mouse.
If you just puked in your own mouth at that statement, you are not alone. ;-)
***** ugh!
roseinthepines Yea, we used to have a shallow artesian well that would give us that 'issue' every five years or so.
We ended up drilling a new well (with a casing) after a winter freeze, and I failed to put a check valve into the overflow.
(Hey, it heads down hill, and is buried three feet down.....)
Apparently, a mole found its way into the open line..... Yea, good times.
***** Definitely one of my fears with a recent bad mouse problem in the house (ate through drywall), and now rats in the yard. My old well does not have a cap so we have screening stuffed in there for the time being. Pump house is pretty well sealed but the rats do burrow. Good luck...flush everything!!!!
I am in the business of water well service and repair and I can assure you that a gallon of bleach will not in fact chlorinate your water well. It might do a good enough job to get a sample test passed but will not work long term . You would have to use several gallons and pump it down through a trim pipe to get it all the way to the water source . We use a granulated chlorine that will fall to the bottom of the well,{ where bacteria mostly grows}, then dissolve and chlorinate the well from the bottom up. I highly recommend you call a professional for this action that will know how much to use and can inform you on how long the chlorine should sit in the well. But liquid will not work , it will run down the side walls inside the well casing and will dissipate before it reaches the water supply . We argue with our local health departments about this all the time , until we explain it to them.
Very true. Great advice. There is a lot of misinformation out there. I am glad a professional such as you is taking the time to share their knowledge. It is also important to keep the PH level low enough to effectively kill bacteria as well. Have you ever tied using a chlorine enhancer to keep the PH at a steady 6.5 and increase the effectiveness of the chlorine?
Check out NuWell 410 goo.gl/rEooMJ
It might save you a considerable amount of work and help you offer a better product to your customers.
It appears that the water did not run that long before you started putting it into the well, wouldn't the bladder tank have to be emptied, looks like its at least 60-80 gallons in the bladder. Once you do that how long does that last?
The place I used to work at the well got bleached every 6 months if it needed it or not used 12% bleach cycled it through the system let it sit for 24 hours. The 12% is nasty stuff eats your clothes instantly lol, the water is tested monthly never had any issues. I think its a good idea for anybody that's on a well should bleach it at least once a year its good preventative maintenance.
Yes, Chlorine is very corrosive. If it ate your clothes just imagine what it was doing to that well every 6 months for 24hrs. This will begin to eat the steel.
Try using a non-corrosive Sulfamic Acid like the NuWell 100 goo.gl/sCoH6E
or the NuWell 110 for larger wells goo.gl/vGvuwh
That, in combination with the NuWell 310 Bio Acid goo.gl/wirvGL should prevent this from happening anymore.
The 310 is an acid enhancer that has biocide characteristics and will help eliminate and prevent your bacteria problem.
How does this work if your pump is 300' in the ground. Same procedures?
Yes. Just takes a little more time.
This is the video I was looking for. Unfortunately, I was born and raised in civilization, our water came from the local water dept. Now I live in a place, that has a well. I can't drink the water from that well. Let me rephrase that, I won't drink the water from that well. However, my dog has to drink that well water, and that concerns me. There is so much limestone in this water, the kitchen sink looks like it is made out of coral. I know it is a good idea to clorox a well, once a year for ecoli. Your video was very helpful, and I did what you did. When I first looked on UA-cam, on how to disinfect a well, there was some broad sitting next to a 6in pipe sticking out of the ground, as was the case in most of the other videos. Ah, no honey, my well is a little different, there is a pump, 30 ft. of PVC, a 60gal. tank. Must be a different manufacturer. As far as the limestone goes, I was able to reduce the amount of limestone by adding a mainline water filter that is mounted on the wall outside, is connected to a hosebib, and contains a 1 micron filter. The dogs water comes into the house in 1 gal. bottles. The filter is supposed to go on the main water line into the house, and changed, once a month. If I had put it on the mainline into the house, I would have to change the filter every 20min. Now I know there are people out there saying, he must live in Florida, or maybe Florida, well he could even live in Florida. Anyway your video was very helpful, thank you. I'll just have to keep my fingers crossed, that the dog's kidneys hold out. And I do know about reverse osmosis, just a tad pricey.
Do you not have to calculate how much drawdown you have and adjust the amount of chlorine based on that? A gallon wouldn't do much if your static water line was at 25 ft and the pump was at 125 ft, versus a static water line of 30 ft and a pump at 60 ft? Wouldn't that throw the concentration way off?
***** I was thinking the same thing. Seems like there should be a formula. My dad's well is three time the depth of mine but my static water level is 100' higher plus his house is probably 100 times the square footage with all kinds of bathrooms and out buildings compared to my 26' travel trailer.
***** Why would anyone put a septic system that near the well?
Yes. There is. You want to take 4 x the standing well volume with 200 mg/l chlorine.
The best thing do to is evacuate that amount above ground and mix the solution in a tank. By pumping it back into the well you will force the mixture into the surrounding gravel and soil formation. by using NuWell 410 goo.gl/rEooMJ you can actually extend the reach of your chlorine and help remove even more of the bacteria.
how well would this do on one one of those open air wells in Africa? And, is there a limit to the size of well?
Did I understand you to imply filtration will remove harmful bacteria?
Thanks for the video!
What does this do to the septic tank and will it work for rotton wgg smell
Hydrogen sulfide will diminish greatly even from a 1/4 or 1/2 the amount of cl2 used without the 24hr set...depending on well depth...
Looks like you were using the concentrated Sodium Hypochlorite and sodium hydroxide (your label has the yellow band at the top like the one on my bottle I recently purchased). I cannot find a percentage of chlorine on the label. Doesn't the amount you put in a well depend on concentration and the volume of water in the well (pipe diameter x length - volume above the static water level + volume of all your plumbing)?
Most Clorox that is label as Industrial is around 6.5% sodium hypochlorite. The regular bleach for households is around 5.25%. Not much difference since you are diluting it. I would check the pH and add vinegar as needed to adjust it to around pH 7.9 since bleach is very basic and it it not effective at high pH.
BC ElginTex Compared to ppm of chlorine used in city water systems and even in pools, I believe the gallon is more than enough to do the job. In fact, I would suspect that, for the average size house with 2½ baths, it is probably over-kill if anything.
Great suggestion on the vinegar @silkworm. A lot of people don't realize the importants of keeping the PH down when doing this.
@@Chungustav I could be wrong here but I'm pretty sure mixing bleach and vinegar isn't a good idea
How long was a long time to smell the bleach
Question ? if I get the bleach into my Septic tank, How do I Re Juvinate the Septic Tank again to put back in the Bacteria that got killed off by the bleach in the Septic Tank.?
Two ideas- there are more... www.hunker.com/13417697/how-to-make-septic-tank-bacteria
There is also a product called Bio-Clean. Use as directed.
I had A dead rat floating on top of my shallow wells water when I tried removing it it disintigrated and sank. I did A gallon of chlorox bleach twice afterward seperated by a month between. This well has A galvinized liner and is only 17 feet deep with A pitcher pump on it. This was installed after bleaching I have yet to really need the water for drinking and have used it sporadically for bathing and clothes washing with no "dead" smell. In your opinion or anyone else reading this the water should be safe to drink? (I'll test it before drinking) Another question is if you have no access to bleach for whatever reason what besides boiling or A sawyer mini filter would you reccomend and would either make the water safe to drink by themselves or together? One note about the depth of my well evan during drought it never went dry just refreshed slower.
From what I've researched, I would suggest a Berkey Water Filter for drinking water. (but get your water before a salt softener if you have one - salt will destroy the Berkey filter)
My well driller suggests using a PVC pipe to get the bleach past any brass fittings that may be at the head of the well. Bleach will eat the brass.
dillonjc2 and steel even faster.
That is why he should include - rinse the well lining to remove bleach when done. If not you may have rust in the water in the future.
Yeah. Chlorine will eat metal, not just brass.
Try using a non-corrosive Sulfamic Acid like the NuWell 100 goo.gl/sCoH6E
or the NuWell 110 for larger wells goo.gl/vGvuwh
That, in combination with the NuWell 310 Bio Acid goo.gl/wirvGL will remove the bacteria.
The 310 is an acid enhancer that has biocide characteristics and will help eliminate and prevent your bacteria problem.
Speaking of well testing, we just got our results back a few days ago. It came back with great results on microbial and heavy metals EXCEPT arsenic. It had 47 units where they wanted to see under 10. Do you have a filter recommendation? We've been drinking out of it for 17 years now.
JC Dragon Hope you get that fixed asap, arsenic is no joke.
JC Dragon Only way to remove heavy metals is distillation. No filters can pull it out as its already dissolved into the the water.
Procedure not found. Please replace it.
I know this is a little late, but you want to run your well though a magnesium and iron filter, then through a sand filter where all the bacteria get trapped and eaten by the good bacteria, then though a uv sterilizer. you should test for boron in well, it can kill you. anyways good luck.
love your channel, lots of great info. question - can I use a 12 volt car battery to power my existing 12 volt well pump in lights out scenario? what do you think of this idea? seems like an inexpensive alternative. thank you for your input.
Great idea Cheryl. The GPM is usually a lot lower for these pumps but in a pinch it is a great solution. Proactive is a reliable brand of 12V pumps that we carry. They have a variety of different depth and GPM options that will meet your needs. goo.gl/wU3jwR
Last pump we had put in they did this. It took forever to get the bleach taste / smell out. Family of 4 with two teenagers and ran the crap out of the water, still.
can't you use the spicket at the top of the pump?
I did this too but used a pool chlorine tab plus the gallon of bleach.
what if your not sure how deep the well is ?
Have you tried lactobascillas in your well..?
Should be using NSF certified bleach. Looks like house hold bleach was poured in. NSF tests the "other" ingredients and determines if they are safe for human consumption. Will what you did work? Yes probably but it isn't the right way. Certified bleach is not very much more expensive. Haas is the brand we use at my work as a water operator.
That's just a marketing scheme to get you to pay more. Household bleach is fine for emergency use. Especially if you are flushing it out.
Never said it wouldn't work I said it's not the correct way to do it. It isn't much more expensive and for a personal well do whatever works but for public water systems you can get in all kinds of trouble using he wrong products. Shocking the well
Like this is probably ok but if he where to treat it continually for Coliform then normal bleach is a no go. Agree any bleach is good bleach in an emergency situation.
Try using this NSF 60 certified well cleaner. Its Sulfamic Acid NuWell 100 goo.gl/sCoH6E
or the NuWell 110 for larger wells goo.gl/vGvuwh
That, in combination with the NuWell 310 Bio Acid goo.gl/wirvGL will remove the bacteria from the well.
The 310 is an acid enhancer that has biocide characteristics and will help eliminate and prevent your bacteria problem.
is it done the same way for an above ground pump?
Above ground pumps work the same in this situation. But you are still going to have the problem of corrosion. Beach will start to eat away at your well over time.
Try using a non-corosive Sulfamic Acid like the NuWell 100 goo.gl/sCoH6E
or the NuWell 110 for larger wells goo.gl/vGvuwh
That, in combination with the NuWell 310 Bio Acid goo.gl/wirvGL should prevent this from happening anymore.
The 310 is an acid enhancer that has biocide characteristics and will help eliminate and prevent your bacteria problem.
usually I just dump a gallon of bleach down the well. then run faucets in house then let it stand overnight. then flush out in morning. is it ok not to run the hose, like you did to recirculate the water ?
You want to circulate the water and agitate the well. othewise the chlorine will sink to the bottom and cook your well casing. Chlorine is highly corrosive. It will eventually eat the steel in your well.
Try using a non-corrosive Sulfamic Acid like the NuWell 100 goo.gl/sCoH6E
or the NuWell 110 for larger wells goo.gl/vGvuwh
That, in combination with the NuWell 310 Bio Acid goo.gl/wirvGL should prevent this from happening anymore.
The 310 is an acid enhancer that has biocide characteristics and will help eliminate and prevent your bacteria problem.
Do you answer any questions on your videos?
I have a issue with this. I see no issues with running this mixture thru any outdoor faucets. it is a big no no to add chlorine to a drain that empties into a septic system. It will kill all the necessary Bacteria needed for that system to function properly.
I totally understand your concern with this. There are solutions to neutralizing the chlorine out of the well. A good option for this is NuWell 500 goo.gl/WZ9mfu
for all kind of bectaria ?
Where is your control box located?
why dont you open the HOT waters?????
An inline UV disinfection system will treat water as you pump it without chemicals. Its a good option if you can afford it.
Will your tank always be near the well?
Nope. We put them wherever the customer wants them.
there is no place to open on top of well pipe comes up and goes to pump them in the tank like one next to you
well well, he disinfected the well well.
This dude is gnarly
Spaceman MMF Thanks, I think. :)
Rad, it’s a way of life
So you're saying dysentery isn't just good fun for the whole family? huh....
E. coli the warrior killer
worst cameraman ever