So. I've learned again from you lovely people. Different films give different results when using filters. Interesting. I guess it all comes down to years of filtering experience to know when to use one for a certain scene for a certain film. Fun times ahead!
Using the yellow while taking photos of people greatly improves skin tones and I'd definitely say never use a red filter while taking portraits unless you hate the person.
When I go out for landscape photos, I always take my digital camera in addition to the film camera. I set it to black and white mode and will test different filters to get a preview of how it will look on film.
Good video, thanks. The next time you have a bright day with a blue sky and dramatic clouds try a red filter with the polarizer this will give you an almost infra red effect, a tripod will be essential.
Nice test Roger. One thing to bare in mind is Acros has limited red sensitivity compared to most other films, so the effect of the red filter is more pronounced with Acros (cuts out around 640nm), still the test is a good representation of what these filters do :)
I’ve been shooting and developing black and white film for seven years now, and have probably shot around 1,000 rolls, mostly 35mm, some 120, and some 4x5. Filters are something I always have on my lens. Yellow is my standard unless there is not enough light, and I like to use an orange filter especially on my 28mm lens. I use a UV when there is not enough light mainly so I never have to clean my lenses. One thing to note is filters will have a slightly different effect depending on the film used; as they all have slightly different spectral sensitivity to different wavelengths of light. So Tri-X or Delta 400 or Delta 100 will react to a yellow filter a little different from Acros 100. I also don’t bother with colored filters on overcast days as in my experience the visual difference isn’t worth the exposure compensation/slower shutter speeds.
I do find that a one-stop push on overcast days will do more to increase contrast than a yellow filter. I forgot to mention that. Plus with a one stop push you get slightly better shutter speeds for handheld shots. Delta 100 at 200 in D76 1:1 is probably favorite film combination. More grain than Tmax 100, but sharper than what I have gotten out of Acros. I will be selling my remaining ~50 rolls of Acros to fund more Delta 100.
David Hancock on his UA-cam channel explains how to shoot Ilford FP4+ with plenty examples. He explains how to read the graph printed in the box and which filters should and shouldn't be used for that particular film stock. You can apply that same theory to any other film if you have the specs / data and get great results.
Absolutely amazing. I've seen couple of guys doing reviews of the same matter, though it happened to be so incomplete compared to yours. Very well done, mate. Really appreciate it
You should really try a blue filter too. The sky and the sea becomes white and disappears and the result are unusual but very interesting. I am going to Moscow next week... fancy any Astrum 400 :))) or maybe another ASTRUM, or a TASMA? Cheers !
It’s interesting for portraits too. Especially for female portraits where it accentuates reds in the skin. This is kind of like free makeup. It requires clean skin to look good though. Pimples, rashes and small nicks will also get accentuated.
I really need to put filters on my cameras more often! Love an orange or red filter to give the skies a bit more PUNCH! Sorry, I have to mention the pronunciation of 'foliage'... Is that how they pronounce it on the IoW? New one on me! :p Keep up the good work, Phil, I mean Roger! :p
If I want a realy dramatic sky I combine a polarisation filter with a red or orange filter . The Dutch sky is famous for its "cloud scape's" in the end off the summer . I have made many impressive cloud landscape's this way . If the trees are important I use the combo pola and yellow filter , pola and red filter will give a infrared sky on a normal pan film . Only you lose a lot off light , the combo pola and red set you back 4,5 stop , pola and orange 3 stop and pola and yellow 2 tot 2,5 stop . Off coarse I use top grade Mamiya or B&W filters , cheap made in China filters I don't know .... You can give it a try sometime . Peter .
Oh yes , for a optimal effect from the polarisation filter to the sky the sun has to be in your back between a certain angle . You can test it your self . Keep the filter for your eye , turn the filter and if the cloud's pop out from the darken sky , your are in the good position to take that dramatic "cloud scape" . Peter .
Sir just picked up a minty Nikon F4 from Japan instructions say do not use use R60 red filters it messes up the auto focus. I only use a R60 filter on my N90S and F100 does not mess with the auto focus. Manual is an option any suggestions why it messes with the F4 and not the other two. Keep up the great work.
At time 9:12 you said the images 1,4, 7, 10 or the top were one stop under. When you did the pictures the first of each color you started each color filter with one stop over. I think you got those mixed up. Also typically over exposed negatives have more black in them. As i get better and better at film i tend to over expose a little... you can always burn more because there is more information in the darker areas of the negatives. As another thought, use Ilford infrared film with a red filter and the nice blue skies will become dramatically darker. Also with regular film if you use a polarizer AND a red filter and it will have a similar effect of the infrared film with a red filter.
I started my exposures 1 stop under. So if metered at 1/60 I'd start at 1/125. Which is "under" exposing. Yes I've just read comments on adding the polorised filter to the red filter. Must try that. Thanks.
At 8:50, your negative "contacts," did you scan and print them? If it were me, I would have printed the middle negatives. What were the exposures of the middle negs, as metered?
These were a wet contact print. Although the middle ones looked best I chose the top because for some reason the first frame (with no filter) was under exposed. I think the sun went in.
When I bought my enlarger It came with three nearly full 100 sheet boxes of ilfospeed, 2.1 3.1 and 4.4. any idea what these numbers mean? the weight of the paper perhaps? I plan to use some this weekend to make some prints from pictures i took with my CE-5. and i am not sure which paper to use and are they treated differently when developing? Oh and one more thing, don't wipe the CE-5 marking with an alcohol swab. it comes right off. Guess how i know.
Read that info sheet, it gave me the developing times i need I seem to even have sizes not made anymore except for size 3. . I wonder what the shelf life on the paper is ? as always it depends on storage conditions, good practice stuff anyway. I will be sure take plenty of pictures to develop next weekend when my sister comes for a visit. I have alot of pictures of her to catch up on, we only just met for the first time 15 months ago.
First digit is contrast. 2 is low, 4 is high. 3 is in between;) The second digit (.1) refers to glossy surface. A pearl surface would be marked .44 They are all the same medium weight (=quite thin) resin coated papers. All process the same way. I have some from 20+ years ago and they are still okay. They dont seem to have such deep blacks like todays' papers though.
@@hullion Thank you for that info, since i new to the developing and printing side of film use, it should make a great way to gain experience. I will go back over to the McChord Air museum and get some pictures of their Static display aircraft. they are in the process of repainting the planes and they look great should make some great pictures.
Hi, despite of nice feeling of film shooting and then printing in darkroom vs using features digitally, is there any difference of result if you do same experiment with a Fujifilm camera by built in film simulation?
If I set my Canon picture style to monochrome and shoot jpg and then use the filters I can get a feel for what they do with scenes. Such as using the red filter on blue sky and white clouds. I can see it work.
You know DSLR's come with a red filter already installed, right? It's mounted right in the sensor assembly. Astrophotographers have them removed first thing. Here's AstroStace doing the job herself: ua-cam.com/video/j0keZqqnfQo/v-deo.html
So. I've learned again from you lovely people. Different films give different results when using filters. Interesting. I guess it all comes down to years of filtering experience to know when to use one for a certain scene for a certain film. Fun times ahead!
Using the yellow while taking photos of people greatly improves skin tones and I'd definitely say never use a red filter while taking portraits unless you hate the person.
Ha ha. I'll keep that in mind!
Keep up the hard work in the darkroom and I love your channel.
When I go out for landscape photos, I always take my digital camera in addition to the film camera. I set it to black and white mode and will test different filters to get a preview of how it will look on film.
I do sometimes Terry usually for metering. I've learned from this video comments different films give different results.
Red n polerizer,5 stops down on meter,hp5 400.
The shadows print easy.
My fave!.
Replying on the other post...
This is also one of my favorite comboniations... i feel it give the film an older color scheme similar to an Ansel Adams
that dog having a blast in the background made me smile the whole time xD
Foliaaaaage - the green shit behind or on the ground :D :D :D I can't, this is comedy gold, Roger. Please never change :D
😂
Good video, thanks. The next time you have a bright day with a blue sky and dramatic clouds try a red filter with the polarizer this will give you an almost infra red effect, a tripod will be essential.
Karma!.
Green sucks,yellow on overcast days n cloud....
All you need.
Gotta try this one guys. Thanks.
Nice test Roger. One thing to bare in mind is Acros has limited red sensitivity compared to most other films, so the effect of the red filter is more pronounced with Acros (cuts out around 640nm), still the test is a good representation of what these filters do :)
Cheers Matt. I didn't realise that. Bit I did think the red was a bit dark compares to my past experiences.
I’ve been shooting and developing black and white film for seven years now, and have probably shot around 1,000 rolls, mostly 35mm, some 120, and some 4x5.
Filters are something I always have on my lens. Yellow is my standard unless there is not enough light, and I like to use an orange filter especially on my 28mm lens. I use a UV when there is not enough light mainly so I never have to clean my lenses. One thing to note is filters will have a slightly different effect depending on the film used; as they all have slightly different spectral sensitivity to different wavelengths of light. So Tri-X or Delta 400 or Delta 100 will react to a yellow filter a little different from Acros 100. I also don’t bother with colored filters on overcast days as in my experience the visual difference isn’t worth the exposure compensation/slower shutter speeds.
Cheers Zach. Good info.
I do find that a one-stop push on overcast days will do more to increase contrast than a yellow filter. I forgot to mention that. Plus with a one stop push you get slightly better shutter speeds for handheld shots.
Delta 100 at 200 in D76 1:1 is probably favorite film combination. More grain than Tmax 100, but sharper than what I have gotten out of Acros.
I will be selling my remaining ~50 rolls of Acros to fund more Delta 100.
Great video Roger, keep on shooting
Thank you for your work yellow and orange are pretty much very favorite filters thank you again
Hello. excellent photographer, and respond with excellent jokes too! Thank you for answering greetings ..
The lat print was beautiful.... great info as well
Great video! I just got some filters - red/orange/infra red. Watched this before I took them out for the first time. Thank you for the info!
As usual, practical and helpful, no BS just facts.
Thanks for the info! Looking into experimenting with filters and this was v helpful, keep on shooting! :)
I've been grabbing up as many filters as I can find at thrift stores. I tend to get a few good filters a month for pennies :)
David Hancock on his UA-cam channel explains how to shoot Ilford FP4+ with plenty examples. He explains how to read the graph printed in the box and which filters should and shouldn't be used for that particular film stock. You can apply that same theory to any other film if you have the specs / data and get great results.
Cheers Craig. Another comment mentioned how different films give different results. Interesting.
step by step processing - exemplary | dog in bg - priceless | foliage - winks | camera settings - deliberate | inspiring content - commenting worthy | thx!
Dog was an extra casting 👍
Thanks for sharing your hard work. This is a great presentation!
Absolutely amazing. I've seen couple of guys doing reviews of the same matter, though it happened to be so incomplete compared to yours.
Very well done, mate. Really appreciate it
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video it was very informative.
Excellent little vid. I'm off to get an orange filter.
I'm not sure if I'm a big fan of filters. But reading some of the comments below....... Now I'm interested :-)
I like red filter~
Jess did some pretty steady camera work :-)
Ha, she did! Thanks.
Very educational video, the new camera seems to be working well, nice one
Yeah I was lucky there.
You should really try a blue filter too. The sky and the sea becomes white and disappears and the result are unusual but very interesting.
I am going to Moscow next week... fancy any Astrum 400 :))) or maybe another ASTRUM, or a TASMA?
Cheers !
It’s interesting for portraits too. Especially for female portraits where it accentuates reds in the skin. This is kind of like free makeup.
It requires clean skin to look good though. Pimples, rashes and small nicks will also get accentuated.
Loved that Astrum Film! The blue filter sounds good.
I really need to put filters on my cameras more often! Love an orange or red filter to give the skies a bit more PUNCH!
Sorry, I have to mention the pronunciation of 'foliage'... Is that how they pronounce it on the IoW? New one on me! :p
Keep up the good work, Phil, I mean Roger! :p
Foliarrrrge. Me and that word have a groovy kind of love. Cheers Jimmy.
Red filter like the look
If I want a realy dramatic sky I combine a polarisation filter with a red or orange filter . The Dutch sky is famous for its "cloud scape's" in the end off the summer . I have made many impressive cloud landscape's this way . If the trees are important I use the combo pola and yellow filter , pola and red filter will give a infrared sky on a normal pan film . Only you lose a lot off light , the combo pola and red set you back 4,5 stop , pola and orange 3 stop and pola and yellow 2 tot 2,5 stop . Off coarse I use top grade Mamiya or B&W filters , cheap made in China filters I don't know .... You can give it a try sometime . Peter .
Oh yes , for a optimal effect from the polarisation filter to the sky the sun has to be in your back between a certain angle . You can test it your self . Keep the filter for your eye , turn the filter and if the cloud's pop out from the darken sky , your are in the good position to take that dramatic "cloud scape" . Peter .
Thanks Peter. I've yet to try the poloriser/coloured filter combo but many have mentioned this. Thanks for your contribution. 🙂
It's interesting the filter factor of the red is 3 stops. I know it's a different brand but my orange and red Hoya filters are both rated at 2 stops
hi again, maybe you could explain what the physics of B&W photography is or refer me to any instructive video, thank you.
Gretting from Argentina!!!!!
Hello Argentina!✌️
I love Cokin. Too bad the colour ones i.e.80B and 85B are harder and harder to get.
OK¡¡ Mr Phill Collins.
Ha ha... Any more Phil Collins jokes and I'll wear a wig
In the Air Tonight
@@Arturo.H.M 😂
@@Arturo.H.M another day in paradise¡¡¡
hi, what do you mean by no filter? What is there when there is no filter? thank you.
Sir just picked up a minty Nikon F4 from Japan instructions say do not use use R60 red filters it messes up the auto focus. I only use a R60 filter on my N90S and F100 does not mess with the auto focus. Manual is an option any suggestions why it messes with the F4 and not the other two. Keep up the great work.
I've not a clue Gman.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks for answering
'Whats Brown Steams and comes out of Cowes??? 🤣
At time 9:12 you said the images 1,4, 7, 10 or the top were one stop under. When you did the pictures the first of each color you started each color filter with one stop over. I think you got those mixed up. Also typically over exposed negatives have more black in them. As i get better and better at film i tend to over expose a little... you can always burn more because there is more information in the darker areas of the negatives.
As another thought, use Ilford infrared film with a red filter and the nice blue skies will become dramatically darker.
Also with regular film if you use a polarizer AND a red filter and it will have a similar effect of the infrared film with a red filter.
I started my exposures 1 stop under. So if metered at 1/60 I'd start at 1/125. Which is "under" exposing. Yes I've just read comments on adding the polorised filter to the red filter. Must try that. Thanks.
Woops yea your right!! Now I feel like a heel!!
@@kamaksi24 🤭
At 8:50, your negative "contacts," did you scan and print them? If it were me, I would have printed the middle negatives. What were the exposures of the middle negs, as metered?
These were a wet contact print. Although the middle ones looked best I chose the top because for some reason the first frame (with no filter) was under exposed. I think the sun went in.
What happened to the green print! Did i miss something?
Dog ate it?:)
When I bought my enlarger It came with three nearly full 100 sheet boxes of ilfospeed, 2.1 3.1 and 4.4. any idea what these numbers mean? the weight of the paper perhaps? I plan to use some this weekend to make some prints from pictures i took with my CE-5. and i am not sure which paper to use and are they treated differently when developing? Oh and one more thing, don't wipe the CE-5 marking with an alcohol swab. it comes right off. Guess how i know.
Ilfospeed RC deluxe is a graded paper not multigrade paper. I've never used it but jump onto the Ilford tech sheet and have a read up.
I will do that as soon as I get back from getting my dogs staples out this morning. thanks
Read that info sheet, it gave me the developing times i need I seem to even have sizes not made anymore except for size 3. . I wonder what the shelf life on the paper is ? as always it depends on storage conditions, good practice stuff anyway. I will be sure take plenty of pictures to develop next weekend when my sister comes for a visit. I have alot of pictures of her to catch up on, we only just met for the first time 15 months ago.
First digit is contrast. 2 is low, 4 is high. 3 is in between;)
The second digit (.1) refers to glossy surface. A pearl surface would be marked .44
They are all the same medium weight (=quite thin) resin coated papers. All process the same way.
I have some from 20+ years ago and they are still okay. They dont seem to have such deep blacks like todays' papers though.
@@hullion Thank you for that info, since i new to the developing and printing side of film use, it should make a great way to gain experience. I will go back over to the McChord Air museum and get some pictures of their Static display aircraft. they are in the process of repainting the planes and they look great should make some great pictures.
In all but the orange and red filters the monument completely disappears.
Hi, despite of nice feeling of film shooting and then printing in darkroom vs using features digitally, is there any difference of result if you do same experiment with a Fujifilm camera by built in film simulation?
I wouldn't bother with colour filters with digital. You can do It all in post.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss so you mean result is same but experience is different!
If I set my Canon picture style to monochrome and shoot jpg and then use the filters I can get a feel for what they do with scenes. Such as using the red filter on blue sky and white clouds. I can see it work.
You know DSLR's come with a red filter already installed, right? It's mounted right in the sensor assembly. Astrophotographers have them removed first thing. Here's AstroStace doing the job herself: ua-cam.com/video/j0keZqqnfQo/v-deo.html
Funny you say that Brett I just removed the red filter from a cheap action cam just to see what it looks like off. A bit orange!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Well, you get yourself an infrared light source, you've got yourself a night vision camera. Works very well, too.
@@brett1354 that's what I'm trying to experiment with.
Foliage, or the green shit behind me. 😆