i heard someone (machine engineer but unrelated to the coffee industry if i remember correctly) suggesting the blade itself might warp if you dont chim right where the screws are... havent heard matt perger or anyone else mention this, but it kind of makes sense to me. And would possibly explain the difficulties i'm having myself aligning this beast.
Take the process of elimination approach. Always make one change at a time before testing. This is my take: Objective: determine if those 2 high spots are inherent to the burr or if it's an external factor; if it's an external factor, what can you do to trouble shoot what it is. if it's related to the burrs themselves, what can you do, if anything? Get a microfiber cloth and thoroughly clean all relevant elements. Use sensitive calipers to measure the thickness of the high and low spots, see if there's and variation. Mark where these 2 high spots are on the burr with a sharpie. Try rotating the burrs to a new position on either the carrier or the inner chamber and screw them in and see if the high spots change. Try swapping the burrs after if nothing. -------------------------If high spots remain, there is a manufacturing inconsistency that you'll have to live with? You could upgrade from your Turkish burrs to SPP burrs if you really want excellent. use a powered drill to speed up the process of repeatedly removing the face plate.
Thank you so much for your feedback. I went ahead ad the the Hale version of sanding the burr carriage and grinding chamber. It worked. here's a video of the method I used. thanks so much for your help. ua-cam.com/video/GPHfzFsma3o/v-deo.html&feature=emb_logo
i heard someone (machine engineer but unrelated to the coffee industry if i remember correctly) suggesting the blade itself might warp if you dont chim right where the screws are... havent heard matt perger or anyone else mention this, but it kind of makes sense to me. And would possibly explain the difficulties i'm having myself aligning this beast.
exactly
Take the process of elimination approach. Always make one change at a time before testing. This is my take:
Objective: determine if those 2 high spots are inherent to the burr or if it's an external factor; if it's an external factor, what can you do to trouble shoot what it is. if it's related to the burrs themselves, what can you do, if anything?
Get a microfiber cloth and thoroughly clean all relevant elements.
Use sensitive calipers to measure the thickness of the high and low spots, see if there's and variation.
Mark where these 2 high spots are on the burr with a sharpie. Try rotating the burrs to a new position on either the carrier or the inner chamber and screw them in and see if the high spots change.
Try swapping the burrs after if nothing.
-------------------------If high spots remain, there is a manufacturing inconsistency that you'll have to live with? You could upgrade from your Turkish burrs to SPP burrs if you
really want excellent.
use a powered drill to speed up the process of repeatedly removing the face plate.
Thank you so much for your feedback. I went ahead ad the the Hale version of sanding the burr carriage and grinding chamber. It worked. here's a video of the method I used. thanks so much for your help. ua-cam.com/video/GPHfzFsma3o/v-deo.html&feature=emb_logo