Thank you Brian. The MM4 is the very system I have been considering and you have solidly confirmed my rationale for purchase. Also appreciate the tips you provided. BTW, you are very good at making videos. Your experience, combined with very articulate speaking and explanations are a great combination. Fuji should hire you to do their videos. Appreciate the help very much.
After watching countless videos, including yours, I bought a Fuji Spray. Then, life happened so it sat in the box for years time. I have time to pursue it now, so I came back to refresh my knowledge. Once again, I am impressed by the quality and abundance of pertinent content which you do expertly packed into this video. Thank you.
You answered a very critical question I had on whether any aftermarket hvlp guns were compatible with fuji turbines. As such you just saved me around $200.00 with your alternative to the higher priced fuji product. Kudos. Great video. Keep up the good work!
I have been looking at the Fuji system since I downsized and no longer have a monster compressor. Your video has been the best and most informative that I have seen. Thanks for putting so much practical info into it !
I agree. I'd also go so far as to say this is the best tool review video, of any kind, on UA-cam! He clearly knows his stuff and outlines only the relevant material without any "fluff" that often litter other reviews. Informative and well-paced, this is exactly the sort of detail I was looking for. Thank you very much for your review.
Thanks, Brian. Your review and tips are really helpful. I am an amateur woodworker and don't really enjoy the time and effort of finishing the projects, but do enjoy the results. I am hoping a system like this will help in that regard and I have been looking at the Fuji for awhile. Thanks, again.
I bought the hubby pro, unboxed it , then say a video saying you really need the mini might3 or better. So back to the store it went and the MM3 was on sale! Now I feel like as a contractor I need the 4 ! lol I guess I;ll get the hang of this one and see if it warrants upgrading! Thanks for the great videos, very informative!
Great Review. Probably the best one Ive seen yet on the Fuji. I am in the market for a mini mite and will be purchasing the 4 with the accessories noted this week. Thank you!
So that gun that Brian likes is the one that came with my Semi-Pro 2. Even the molded pattern on the handle is the same. Fuji appears to have out sourced this gun - Smart!
I'm new to spaying and just bought a used Fuji Q4. I have a few questions after your video. 1) You talked about a whip hose; how is this different than the supplied hose? 2) You said something about using the 'ball' shape rather than the fan for finishing nice parts. Does the ball shape give a better surface finish? 3) You say acrylics are difficult to spray. Does this apply to acrylic clear coat too? That is my primary aim for this tool. I get the impression from a few comments that clear coat is less demanding than color?
Yesssss! Thanks for doing this! I just bought one of these last night after comparing a ton of sprayers and this confirmed my decision. REALLY appreciate it.
With a lower end system like the SemiPro2 would you have to use a larger tip (like the 2.0) or will it not make a difference? I'm spraying latex (BM Advance). Great video!
I would start with 1.5 or 1.8, you should be able to spray that just fine with smaller tips if you thin it a bit depending on your expectations might not need to thin at all.
@@briancnc Thanks for the info. The last time I sprayed with the SP2 it was with some BM primer (thinned) and the finish I was getting had lots of larger droplets instead of a smooth finish. Is this a symptom of a common problem like not thinning the primer enough or wrong tip size?
@darrinmc yeah large droplets mean its not atomizing in a fine mist. You can try thinning more if the paint allows and if not increase the tip size. I would definitely start with a 1.5 or 1.8 if you have those sets though and start with full air flow and no fluid, slowly open the fluid knob and test spray.
Thank you for this succinct, coherent, informative video. Your videos only show demonstrations of spraying horizontally. I would like some tips and a demonstration on how to use this sprayer vertically.
Great informational video...nicely paced and engaging. I want to order 3 of those Aero guns too but with different size nozzles and not all just 1.3 so I hope they will sell them that way.
Great videos! New to HVLP and was wondering: 1. How did you decide between Minimite 4 and more expensive Q4 Fuji Systems? 2. What size Fuji tip would you use for spraying latex Primer and oil base top coat for trim, doors, cabinets..? Thx
Very, very good Brian. This is an informative, stay-on-topic video with no wasted air time. You made a subscriber out of me on my very viewing of any of your shows. Thank you!
I'm asking this in another group so it may be a "crosspost", but your video is very helpful. HVLP or AirLess for trim and cabinets in an occupied house? I'm not a pro painter or trim carpenter, but I like to do the best I can. All the trim is ripped from MDF and I'm putting up some decent 3 piece crown along with 1x8 flat stock base and fully cased windows to match. It's a lot of trim work and I'd like to be able to spray a room at a time as we complete them since we are living in the house. On the to-do list is to rebuild the doors on the cabinets and then spray it all white. I'll be spraying both latex (Sherwin ProClassic thinned 20% or PPG Manor Hall) on the trim and PPG Break-Through water-borne acrylic on the cabinets and closet shelving. I've also been told by some pro painters that airless is the way to go with a fine (green) tip, but I know the airless has a lot more cleanup involved than a HVLP since you have to flush everything out and I really want to do a room at a time without having to do major cleanup. For spraying all the trim a room at a time, would you be comfortable suggesting this HVLP or an airless?
+c chandler I misspoke, good catch. I prefer the gravity feeds yes but the aerojet only comes in in the suction feed so it was a compromise. The suction feed cup guns hold more material but they are bulky and not ergonomic. For example you will rarely see automotive finishes using them. Ideal world would be a 3M pps in a gravity feed, but budget dictated the move and I got used to the suction feeds after awhile anyways.
i really enjoyed watching your honest informed review ...was contimplating which hvlp to purchase stuck between the minimite 4 platinum or the 4 stage capspray ...if u have any knowledge on the capspray and weather i can just purchase those guns and attach to the capspray if thats my choice ...i have heard the filtration system on the capspray is much better as is the hose quality unfortunately there is a down side to the capspray replacement parts are expensive unlike fuji .the capspray has a built in compartment for needles .would like to know your opinion on the 2 thanks keep up the great work hope to see more of your videos
Thanks David! I am not familiar with the Capspray, but it looks like a nice unit. Whatever you do just make sure you have the ability to purchase extra/spare parts you need. The deal breaker initially with all of the other setups is the inability to purchase additional guns with the turbine. It seems only the higher end units allow purchase of these and replacement parts separately. From experience I would say to go with the Fuji and you won't be disappointed but I can't comment on the Capspray. Unless they want to send me one and prove me wrong? I wouldn't be concerned about built ins and little do-dads, you can purchase systainers to keep all your parts and the important thing as you noticed is to make sure the system you want has parts available and that are reasonably priced.
Question: when cleaning the gun, what chemical substances do you use? When using a brush you might not get the quality finish but you do not require to have the amount of solvents or thinners at hand. If cleanup was easier and less expensive I would be using this system.
Richard, check out my other newer spray finishing video, I cover some of this. Cleanup is easy and inexpensive. For water based finishes you can clean the guns and parts with water, practically free! I use warm water and brushes in a sink to clean the equipment. If you clean it the same day it cleans out easily, if left for awhile denatured alcohol works well too (also relatively inexpensive). Brushes also have to be cleaned, it's all relative. Painting with a spray gun has pros/cons but the amount of time saved by spraying usually outweighs for large projects.
This was a super helpful video. After researching the other brands and with the help of this review, I decided to purchase this unit (also Fine WW gave it a Editors pick too). Thanks for the detailed review!
Excellent video. In using my Fuji Semi-Pro 2 with the stock bottom fed gun for the last year for automotive applications, my largest challenge has been setting the paint volume control correctly. Good news with the automotive paints is you adhere to the ratio (e.g. 4:1:1) of paint to reducer to hardener. But the dreaded orange peel is so easy to get regardless because of the volume control or of course possibly having the gun too close to the surface. I stay about 6"-8" away and of course test first. I've done pieces where I didn't even need to color sand afterwords and others where I spent hours removing the peel. Always keep a 70 degree dry environment. I found the best setting at least for single stage urethane is a 1/2 turn from closed. But still experimenting. Other than that a great system.
Nice, thanks. That is what I purchased with T75 gun. And 3M PPS Disposable. I did not get the whip. But I will for sure. And I am getting a Remote for free for reviewing their equipment. Keep up educating.
Watched your review of the Fuji mini-mite and found it hugely informative and helpful. I started investigating sprayer kit a few days ago and realised the buying decision required much more research. Can I ask you some specific questions about the woodwork you do and why you decided to go into the paint finishing?
This is what a review video ought to be! Would love to see a video on your process for thinning latex to work on your setup. I am getting ready to purchase a setup like yours to paint our kitchen cabinets and would love to see how you approach it.
Very informative. Thank you for taking time to share your experience with Fuji spray. I also have a Minimite 3 and the thing I noticed is the hose connected near the turbine gets really hot and I’m wondering if that has caused any damage to your hose.
Our application is to spray a safe disinfectant -hypochlorous acid (HOCl). The finer the mist the better, and good foggers start at $500. I thought an HVLP system would be better and last longer. I looked at the FUJI Mini-Mites. It doesn't appear that you can buy one without the gun. I saw your recommended one at $138. Since we are spraying what is basically water, would the Mini-Mite 2 be ok? The price with gun is $425 so it would be affordable for a business, such as a restaurant. Most are spraying with hazardous ammonium chlorides known as quats. The 3 or 4 take a jump to over $600. The $12 pump sprayer and the $50 rechargeable sprayer I have work, but the droplets aren't fine and everything gets wet if you don't work fast. Sooooo, how do you buy a 2, 3 or 4 compressor alone, and is the 2 good enough for water? Art. Great lesson for a novice. Thanks.
Hello, just a note to mention, at the beginning of video the gentleman indicated he chose the gravity fed gun and actually he is demonstrating a hvlp gun. I am sure its an honest slip up. Just want to clarify for those who might be misled on this important detail. Cheers. Joseph
Thanks, yes I did mis-speak it is a suction feed gun not a gravity. Gravity gun is the standard kit item for this unit so I spoke incorrectly. Everyone has their preference but with the fuji you can always purchase a kit from a dealer that works best for you.
Hey bud, thanks for taking the time to make this video, explain the tool, and all your advice. Are you aware of any sales or best times to purchase this tool? Also, how is your booth set up?
You are the best thank you. I made my decision and buy this one because of your video and actually it is all true this system works as you said not orange peel with the right tip and viscosity thanks best rewiew ever.
Thanks Erik, appreciate all of your kind comments and feedback! So glad this was helpful for you an others, that's all I can hope for! In the world of youtube there are hardly any videos without sponsorship or bias so that's my goal to provide honest advice with tools I purchased and without simply unboxing something someone sent me for free.
Excellent Video !! The Mini-Mite 4 HVLP Spray system. Great product, like he says in the video "very easy to spray stuff". The gravity feed T75G System is portable and makes any job for the DIY look like you were a professional painter. No matter how small or big the job is.
We all start somewhere! I can lay down beautiful finishes with the wagner once you get past the nuances. The fuji just makes it easier to do it and have better control.
Hi Brian, you convinced me to buy a Fuji sprayer. I have a cap sprayer with 2 compression tanks built into it. It weighs a ton! Another problem with the Cap spray gun, besides the noise, is that it losses air compression when I'm painting a big door. I have to stop spraying in the middle of the door and let the air pressure build up again before I can continue! Real pain in the ass! My question is ,does the Fugi turbine have consistent pressure to finish a big panel like a door or a big panel cabint door? Thank you so much for your videos! so helpful!
Wonderful video, Do you have a video using the hvlp on an inside corner of baseboard? I would like to see the proper technique for stopping at an inside corner and starting at an inside corner. Thanks Mike
I would just work around it in one fluid motion. Try to never stop while over the material as it will build up paint in certain area more. The key is to keep a constant offset and angle with respect to the workpiece.
Brian, would you mind going over the basics of spraying latex/alkyd with the MM4? Thinning, viscosity, products you’d recommend (paint mfr),etc.? Thanks
Yes but I wouldn't, the tolerances can be slightly different. I only have one of the fuji's so for me I only use that set with it, doesn't make any sense to switch unless you wanted to get the cheaper sets for your fuji.
I totally enjoyed your video on the Fuji Mini-Mite. I am totally new at spray guns and I am concerned on how to clean the system. I make boxes and small projects and I am concerned that cleaning will take much longer than the spraying of the project. Also, do you have a video on how to check and change the viscosity of the spraying material? Thank you very much. Dave.
David, it's all about how you look at it. Cleanup done right takes time. You have to take all of the gun apart and clean each part, and very carefully if you want them to work well each and every time you use it. Leaving any debris will interrupt air or fluid flow. But in the same way cleaning brushes or rollers takes about as much time. The difference is both in the quality of the finish coat and the time it takes to do it. Spray finishing is far faster than any other method of applying finish, but a factor of at least 3-4x. If you're good and setup your work space efficiently you can blow right through the work. For example, if I were to spray around 20 drawer boxes, inside and out, it would take me about 20 minutes or less per coat. You would spend probably 4-5 minutes per box if done by hand and it wouldn't look nearly as good. When I do production or large quantity work I typically stage it, do half, scuff the other half while the first is drying so I'm not sitting around waiting for everything to dry. I don't have a video on viscosity but I could make one in the future. You check viscosity with a gravity viscosity cup. It basically drains fluid out and you see how long it takes to completely drain the cup. The time it takes is a function of how thick the material is. There are general guidelines for this for most finishes, and for professional finishes very specific requirements. I find that with good experience and sense of how to thin finishes I almost never check for viscosity. The more professional finishes are a bit more particular with this though. You change the viscosity by adding solvent, thinner, water, mineral spirits or whatever the finish is supposed to be thinned with. If you don't know, typically whatever is advised to clean it on the can is what you can thin it with. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for getting back to me. Again, I really enjoyed your review and I am looking forward to more items from you. By the way do you have a website I can follow?
I painted cars for 35 years a paint gun is a paint gun. Rinse/spray the gun through three times, last rinse leave the thinner in the cup and drop the air cap in, close the gun, your set. If you are shooting with a gravity feed drop the air cap in a pint can of thinner. Every once in a while you will want to pull the needle and fluid tip and clean them completely. Spraying 30k cars is a hell of a lot more demanding than a piece of wood.
brilliant video, new to spraying so its a great help, could you recommend more youtube vids on how best to thin out paints etc. I mostly work in kitchens and cabinet making
Thanks Noel! What kind of finishes are you using? Proper thinning/setup is a really broad topic I'm not sure is suited for one video, but a specific finish is. If you're doing kitchens you should use pre-catalyzed lacquers and colored lacquers, they are already thinned for spraying (usually with name brands from dealers) and are the easiest finishes to get looking good. Acrylic/latex is not designed for spray finishing but can be done just fine with the right experience and setup.
Brian, great video. I've been learning to spray with a Wagner ControlSpray Max using Sherwin Williams ProClassic water based, but finally decided to step up to a better gun. I got results I was happy with with the Wagner but always felt like I was fighting the gun's limitations. I think I spotted one on your workbench, what do you find yourself using this for? I just ordered the MM3. I considered the 4-stage but there were a lot of happy people on the Amazon reviews spraying latex and the MM3 was already a stretch for a hobbyist like me. I went with the gravity feed since it looks like it'll be easier to control and clean, but I appreciate the tip on the knock off guns since that means I can pick up a few cheap suction feed options as well. I wanted to mention that I got my best results on the Wagner after I started spraying with SW Kem Aqua Plus. It seems they don't promote this finish much but it's a very thin water based product ready to spray out of the can, dries in 30 mins.
Maxim, the Wagner is actually good for how simple and cheap it is. I still even use one for one type of paint that we use for another application and keep running all the time so I don't have to occupy one of our good fuji guns. The Fuji is substantially better in other areas but if I was a hobbyist I might not take the plunge, there is just no way to not beef up to a better rig when you're using it every day. Glad you got good results with the SW, it really comes out to viscosity. The cheap guns work very well if you get the finish thinned correctly. Where the more expensive ones excel is how they perform over time. The wagner guns are disposable in my opinion and the plastic parts wear out in time. There is no way to properly maintain plastic parts that are used heavily. Having all stainless or anodized aluminum gun parts ensures longevity and precision with the more difficult finishes. I think you will like the MM3 a lot, and like you said you are doing hobbyist work so you won't see the benefits from the higher end Fuji systems.
Brian, yeah I'd have to agree on the Wagner. What's been happening is that I've started getting inconsistent results spraying finishes with it. The temperature/humidity, shop conditions, and my technique haven't changed so it feels like it's the gun. I'm getting what looks like little blobs in the finish as the paint sprays, and they aren't leveling out. Sometimes I get them, sometimes I don't. Once the paint is dry it looks like acne. I've had this once spraying KA+ tinted white and twice back to back now with KA+ clear. Prior to finding the KA+ system, I would get this occasionally with a second coat of the ProClassic and consistently with GF High Performance as well. My hope is that the Fuji gives me more consistent results and a smoother output from the better atomization, where I'm not having to rely on the levelers in the paint quite so much as I feel like I'm doing with the Wagner. It was either the MM3 gun or the Earlex HV5500. I figured if I'm going to spend $400 on the Earlex, might as well spend another $200 or so to get the better Fuji gun and the third stage.
This has been the Best Video I have seen so far on any turbine unit on UA-cam. Thank you for the unbiased opinion on your purchase. I have been researching turbines versus compressors for sometime and I have now come to the conclusion that this is the best system for my small wood working business. I will be purchasing a Fuji turbine unit very soon. I do have one question for you. I notice that Fuji has another 4 stage turbine with the platinum series and I was wondering if you knew if there was a difference between them?
Hey Brian, Fantastic review. It sounds like the 4 would be great for me, but I don't know if I can justify the money. I want to do occasional latex spraying...maybe. Decisions, decisions....
Great video, good info! I've started to consider purchasing an HVLP system. I'm a professional carpenter, and do a decent amount of custom built-in bookcases and interior trim. I don't do a ton of painting on remodel projects since typically I sub out the painting, but I do pre-spray interior trim sometimes, and I almost always paint my built-in bookcases because I want ensure they are finished well. My HVLP needs would be for what I've described above, as well as personal woodworking/hobby type projects to include stains/oils/urethanes/varnish/etc. I currently use a piston pump for paints if project is large enough, otherwise I brush and roll. My concern with HVLP is the necessity of thinning, which seems like it could be a hassle, especially if larger volume where it would all need to be equally thinned but only a portion can be put in gun cup at a time. Is this a pain or what's your opinion/info on that? Thanks!
Hello thank you for the unbiased review and recommendations for a different spray gun. So i know this is a 4 year old video. Do you have any suggestion on the fuji semi-pro? I'm inclining on either this one, or the semi pro which is half the price. I will be doing allot of refinishing of wooden furniture as a part time job/hobby lots of stain and oil based paints. Would you still recommend this machine?
This was a really helpful video so thanks for taking the time to make it. I have a Fuji Q4 but funnily enough with an Apollo gun but I've never had great success with it so I think I'll get the Aerojet gun and give it a try. My experience seems the same - solvent finishes go on reasonably well but waterborne products have caused me more grief. The products where I am located will be different to those that you use but some guidance on your thinning strategies/needle and nozzle selection would be much appreciated. It seemed to me that the solvent products needed less finessing to get them to go on properly. I would usually add a quarter to a third by volume of solvent thinners and the gun would spray OK. Waterborne products (especially latex) needed to be just right and temperature played a part as well (I assume their viscosity was far more temperature dependant). I added 10% water (and sometimes Floetrol - I know it's not a thinner) but even with a 1.8mm nozzle I was getting a poor finish. I wasn't game to add more water in case it affected the paint chemistry. I even tried to use a viscosity cup but the standard ones don't seem suited to latex paints (too slow to flow through). I'd appreciate any advice you have to offer and thanks again. Cheers
Floetrol is a waste of money, I wouldn't ever use it and the paint store guys always are quick to push it on customers. I don't even measure anymore with latex/acrylic paints, I just go with viscosity by eye and do a test spray and see how it lays out. You can generalize a lot of it. One thing I have noticed is that some paints, especially darker ones in higher end like Benjamin moore cannot be thinned too much with water. It does strange things once you over saturate it with water like fish eyes and surface separation as the atomized paint lays on the surface. You will never get as good of a finish with latex as you do with something like lacquer, but with the right setup it will look really good. Humidity and temp does have a huge role as you noticed, more so with humidity than anything. High humidity swings always cause issues for me. I can do a video at a later date on help with this type of stuff but I can only really recommend trial and error. Latex/acrylic isn't designed to be sprayed fine, it's just too heavy of a paint. Why are you using an apollo gun with a fuji turbine, was it purchased used? Usually they come with the gun as a kit. Thanks.
Of course, airless is designed for it. Water based finishes are difficult to thin in many cases and they don't atomize well. Once you find a working viscosity the rest is about technique, slowing down your movements and letting it build up just right.
Very informative video. I Recently purchased the Fuji mini mite 3 and just started spraying newly built kitchen cabinets with BM Advance . You mentioned that using lacquer and solvent based paints is more forgiving . How much more difficult is the clean up of the gun ?
Newbie here and question for Brian or experienced painters out there: Paint types, if I want to paint my kitchen cabinets blue or some other color and not with latex, what am I to use? When I watch videos of professional painters painting cabinets, are they using latex or something easier to apply? No matter what type of system it seems latex is kind of a pain! Thanks folks, Garry
There aren't a ton of options for homeowners but there are commercial finishes such as tinted lacquers and other solvent based finishes but you will need a dealer to get those. Your best bet is to go to a Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore dealer (not like a hardware store) and explain the application and ask for options. SW has a lot of trim and cabinet paints too that aren't latex, see what they have available.
Hi Brian. Great informative video. I would also like to have extra guns at a lower price. Right now I have the Fuji gun. Do the aero jet guns fit the air cap sets for the Fuji. You said they were essentially the same gun. Just wondering how literal. Thanks
fantastic video - i'm fairly close to switching from a graco airless to an HVLP setup for painting birch and poplar built ins and cabinets. I'm curious what you would use (paint/lacquer) to get a nice furniture grade white finish using this setup?
Tinted lacquer and clear lacquer are super easy to put down, especially if solvent based and precat. It's my go to for professional and easy results. For something not as toxic if you don't have a spray booth latex acrylics are a good option or waterbourne lacquer. You just have to practice a lot with waterbourne as it runs very easily.
Brian, thank you so much for this video as well as your data driven type of perspective. I am very eager to get a Fuji system and the mini-mite 4 just seems like the winner for me. Couple quick questions, how are you still enjoying the system after all these years? Do you have any issues with the pot style gun not feeding material while spraying at a certain angle?
Awesome video. I get my setup this coming wknd. I do a lot of cabinet resurfacing. Curious your thoughts thinning Benjamin Moore Advance. Familiar with this at all? Again super stoked to use this!
Thank you Brian. The MM4 is the very system I have been considering and you have solidly confirmed my rationale for purchase. Also appreciate the tips you provided. BTW, you are very good at making videos. Your experience, combined with very articulate speaking and explanations are a great combination. Fuji should hire you to do their videos. Appreciate the help very much.
Videos like this are the reason I'll never go to college. Great information. Thank you!
After watching countless videos, including yours, I bought a Fuji Spray. Then, life happened so it sat in the box for years time. I have time to pursue it now, so I came back to refresh my knowledge. Once again, I am impressed by the quality and abundance of pertinent content which you do expertly packed into this video. Thank you.
Thank you for making this video
You are incredibly artticulate (even at 1.25 video playback speed.) A renaissance man if I ever saw one in a DIY video. Kudos to you.
Brilliant video.
All aspects covered with clear concise commentary.
Great job!
Best review I've seen on this setup. I just purchased the Mini-Mite 4 with gravity gun because of it. Thanks for making the video!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate the kind words!
You answered a very critical question I had on whether any aftermarket hvlp guns were compatible with fuji turbines. As such you just saved me around $200.00 with your alternative to the higher priced fuji product. Kudos. Great video. Keep up the good work!
I have been looking at the Fuji system since I downsized and no longer have a monster compressor. Your video has been the best and most informative that I have seen. Thanks for putting so much practical info into it !
Thank you for your feedback!
That is the best Fujispray video on UA-cam. Thank you!
£ the 80+
Thank you!
I was about to say the exact same thing.
I agree. I'd also go so far as to say this is the best tool review video, of any kind, on UA-cam! He clearly knows his stuff and outlines only the relevant material without any "fluff" that often litter other reviews.
Informative and well-paced, this is exactly the sort of detail I was looking for.
Thank you very much for your review.
Definitely 👍
Informative and straight to the point. Thank you
Edit:
Your included shopping list is beyond helpful
Thank you!
Thanks, Brian. Your review and tips are really helpful. I am an amateur woodworker and don't really enjoy the time and effort of finishing the projects, but do enjoy the results. I am hoping a system like this will help in that regard and I have been looking at the Fuji for awhile. Thanks, again.
This was an absolutely fantastic HVLP spray video. Keep up the good work!
I bought the hubby pro, unboxed it , then say a video saying you really need the mini might3 or better. So back to the store it went and the MM3 was on sale! Now I feel like as a contractor I need the 4 ! lol I guess I;ll get the hang of this one and see if it warrants upgrading! Thanks for the great videos, very informative!
Great Review. Probably the best one Ive seen yet on the Fuji. I am in the market for a mini mite and will be purchasing the 4 with the accessories noted this week. Thank you!
Outstanding video, man. I bought one for my painting business and was a little nervous before seeing your presentation. Thank you!
Great review . Thankyou .
I make fitted furniture and wall paneling. And hand painting it all is so long winded . 4 stage unit would cope well 👍
Great unbiased review! Leaning heavily towards going with the MM4 platinum.
So that gun that Brian likes is the one that came with my Semi-Pro 2. Even the molded pattern on the handle is the same. Fuji appears to have out sourced this gun - Smart!
Great review. Just what I was looking for as I've just bought a Q5. Simply the best Fuji HVLP video out there.
Thanks so much for watching and your comments Steve!
I'm new to spaying and just bought a used Fuji Q4. I have a few questions after your video.
1) You talked about a whip hose; how is this different than the supplied hose?
2) You said something about using the 'ball' shape rather than the fan for finishing nice parts. Does the ball shape give a better surface finish?
3) You say acrylics are difficult to spray. Does this apply to acrylic clear coat too? That is my primary aim for this tool. I get the impression from a few comments that clear coat is less demanding than color?
My new Fuji Mini-mite 4 should arrive tomorrow or the next day. This video helped a lot in making the decision I made.
Yesssss! Thanks for doing this! I just bought one of these last night after comparing a ton of sprayers and this confirmed my decision. REALLY appreciate it.
I'm glad it was helpful, enjoy your new fuji system you will love it! Thanks for watching!
Used it yet?
With a lower end system like the SemiPro2 would you have to use a larger tip (like the 2.0) or will it not make a difference? I'm spraying latex (BM Advance). Great video!
I would start with 1.5 or 1.8, you should be able to spray that just fine with smaller tips if you thin it a bit depending on your expectations might not need to thin at all.
@@briancnc Thanks for the info. The last time I sprayed with the SP2 it was with some BM primer (thinned) and the finish I was getting had lots of larger droplets instead of a smooth finish. Is this a symptom of a common problem like not thinning the primer enough or wrong tip size?
@darrinmc yeah large droplets mean its not atomizing in a fine mist. You can try thinning more if the paint allows and if not increase the tip size. I would definitely start with a 1.5 or 1.8 if you have those sets though and start with full air flow and no fluid, slowly open the fluid knob and test spray.
This is just what i needed! Thanks, your vids are clear and informative. Subscribed
Thank you for this succinct, coherent, informative video. Your videos only show demonstrations of spraying horizontally. I would like some tips and a demonstration on how to use this sprayer vertically.
Great informational video...nicely paced and engaging. I want to order 3 of those Aero guns too but with different size nozzles and not all just 1.3 so I hope they will sell them that way.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to be so thorough.
Thank you Steve!
Brian I just bought the mm5 but I found the air gap kits third party on Amazon much cheaper &34.00 a piece. Great review.
Great videos! New to HVLP and was wondering:
1. How did you decide between Minimite 4 and more expensive Q4 Fuji Systems?
2. What size Fuji tip would you use for spraying latex Primer and oil base top coat for trim, doors, cabinets..?
Thx
Very, very good Brian. This is an informative, stay-on-topic video with no wasted air time. You made a subscriber out of me on my very viewing of any of your shows. Thank you!
Thank you Ron for your kind words!
Thanks i just got one and your video was very informative. I paint cabinets i think this system will serve me well.
I'm asking this in another group so it may be a "crosspost", but your video is very helpful.
HVLP or AirLess for trim and cabinets in an occupied house?
I'm not a pro painter or trim carpenter, but I like to do the best I can. All the trim is ripped from MDF and I'm putting up some decent 3 piece crown along with 1x8 flat stock base and fully cased windows to match. It's a lot of trim work and I'd like to be able to spray a room at a time as we complete them since we are living in the house. On the to-do list is to rebuild the doors on the cabinets and then spray it all white.
I'll be spraying both latex (Sherwin ProClassic thinned 20% or PPG Manor Hall) on the trim and PPG Break-Through water-borne acrylic on the cabinets and closet shelving.
I've also been told by some pro painters that airless is the way to go with a fine (green) tip, but I know the airless has a lot more cleanup involved than a HVLP since you have to flush everything out and I really want to do a room at a time without having to do major cleanup.
For spraying all the trim a room at a time, would you be comfortable suggesting this HVLP or an airless?
Terrific video. You said you preferred the gravity feed, but it looked like you were holding a suction feed.
+c chandler I misspoke, good catch. I prefer the gravity feeds yes but the aerojet only comes in in the suction feed so it was a compromise. The suction feed cup guns hold more material but they are bulky and not ergonomic. For example you will rarely see automotive finishes using them. Ideal world would be a 3M pps in a gravity feed, but budget dictated the move and I got used to the suction feeds after awhile anyways.
i really enjoyed watching your honest informed review ...was contimplating which hvlp to purchase stuck between the minimite 4 platinum or the 4 stage capspray ...if u have any knowledge on the capspray and weather i can just purchase those guns and attach to the capspray if thats my choice ...i have heard the filtration system on the capspray is much better as is the hose quality unfortunately there is a down side to the capspray replacement parts are expensive unlike fuji .the capspray has a built in compartment for needles .would like to know your opinion on the 2 thanks keep up the great work hope to see more of your videos
Thanks David! I am not familiar with the Capspray, but it looks like a nice unit. Whatever you do just make sure you have the ability to purchase extra/spare parts you need. The deal breaker initially with all of the other setups is the inability to purchase additional guns with the turbine. It seems only the higher end units allow purchase of these and replacement parts separately. From experience I would say to go with the Fuji and you won't be disappointed but I can't comment on the Capspray. Unless they want to send me one and prove me wrong? I wouldn't be concerned about built ins and little do-dads, you can purchase systainers to keep all your parts and the important thing as you noticed is to make sure the system you want has parts available and that are reasonably priced.
Question: when cleaning the gun, what chemical substances do you use? When using a brush you might not get the quality finish but you do not require to have the amount of solvents or thinners at hand. If cleanup was easier and less expensive I would be using this system.
Richard, check out my other newer spray finishing video, I cover some of this. Cleanup is easy and inexpensive. For water based finishes you can clean the guns and parts with water, practically free! I use warm water and brushes in a sink to clean the equipment. If you clean it the same day it cleans out easily, if left for awhile denatured alcohol works well too (also relatively inexpensive). Brushes also have to be cleaned, it's all relative. Painting with a spray gun has pros/cons but the amount of time saved by spraying usually outweighs for large projects.
This was a super helpful video. After researching the other brands and with the help of this review, I decided to purchase this unit (also Fine WW gave it a Editors pick too). Thanks for the detailed review!
Thank you for your feedback, I am glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. In using my Fuji Semi-Pro 2 with the stock bottom fed gun for the last year for automotive applications, my largest challenge has been setting the paint volume control correctly. Good news with the automotive paints is you adhere to the ratio (e.g. 4:1:1) of paint to reducer to hardener. But the dreaded orange peel is so easy to get regardless because of the volume control or of course possibly having the gun too close to the surface. I stay about 6"-8" away and of course test first. I've done pieces where I didn't even need to color sand afterwords and others where I spent hours removing the peel. Always keep a 70 degree dry environment. I found the best setting at least for single stage urethane is a 1/2 turn from closed. But still experimenting. Other than that a great system.
Thank you!
thank you for explaining the differences for different uses....
Nice, thanks. That is what I purchased with T75 gun. And 3M PPS Disposable. I did not get the whip. But I will for sure. And I am getting a Remote for free for reviewing their equipment. Keep up educating.
Great video...I'm your newest fan. Thank you for this video.
Watched your review of the Fuji mini-mite and found it hugely informative and helpful. I started investigating sprayer kit a few days ago and realised the buying decision required much more research. Can I ask you some specific questions about the woodwork you do and why you decided to go into the paint finishing?
This is what a review video ought to be! Would love to see a video on your process for thinning latex to work on your setup. I am getting ready to purchase a setup like yours to paint our kitchen cabinets and would love to see how you approach it.
Jim, thank you! Will do, I have this on my list to do this spring. I haven't been able to do any videos lately due to large work projects.
The best, most practical video on UA-cam. Kudos!
One question - can you use the AeroJet air caps (replacement tips) on the Fuji gun?
Very informative. Thank you for taking time to share your experience with Fuji spray. I also have a Minimite 3 and the thing I noticed is the hose connected near the turbine gets really hot and I’m wondering if that has caused any damage to your hose.
Very informative video. Thank you for posting. The links are extremely helpful.
Thank you for watching and comments
Such a great and informative video. Exactly what I was looking for
Outstanding review and excellent notes and links in the description. Thanks for making great content!!!!
Thank you!
Our application is to spray a safe disinfectant -hypochlorous acid (HOCl). The finer the mist the better, and good foggers start at $500. I thought an HVLP system would be better and last longer. I looked at the FUJI Mini-Mites. It doesn't appear that you can buy one without the gun. I saw your recommended one at $138. Since we are spraying what is basically water, would the Mini-Mite 2 be ok? The price with gun is $425 so it would be affordable for a business, such as a restaurant. Most are spraying with hazardous ammonium chlorides known as quats. The 3 or 4 take a jump to over $600. The $12 pump sprayer and the $50 rechargeable sprayer I have work, but the droplets aren't fine and everything gets wet if you don't work fast. Sooooo, how do you buy a 2, 3 or 4 compressor alone, and is the 2 good enough for water? Art. Great lesson for a novice. Thanks.
Excellent info, explained well. Thank you
I agree best video thanks!!
Hello, just a note to mention, at the beginning of video the gentleman indicated he chose the gravity fed gun and actually he is demonstrating a hvlp gun. I am sure its an honest slip up. Just want to clarify for those who might be misled on this important detail.
Cheers.
Joseph
Thanks, yes I did mis-speak it is a suction feed gun not a gravity. Gravity gun is the standard kit item for this unit so I spoke incorrectly. Everyone has their preference but with the fuji you can always purchase a kit from a dealer that works best for you.
Great video. Very informative. I'm looking to invest in an HVLP system and this review helps a ton.
This was an outstanding exposition of this product. Kudos to you!
Thank you!
Hey bud, thanks for taking the time to make this video, explain the tool, and all your advice.
Are you aware of any sales or best times to purchase this tool?
Also, how is your booth set up?
You are the best thank you. I made my decision and buy this one because of your video and actually it is all true this system works as you said not orange peel with the right tip and viscosity thanks best rewiew ever.
Thanks Erik, appreciate all of your kind comments and feedback! So glad this was helpful for you an others, that's all I can hope for! In the world of youtube there are hardly any videos without sponsorship or bias so that's my goal to provide honest advice with tools I purchased and without simply unboxing something someone sent me for free.
Excellent Video !!
The Mini-Mite 4 HVLP Spray system. Great product, like he says in the video "very easy to spray stuff". The gravity feed T75G System is portable and makes any job for the DIY look like you were a professional painter. No matter how small or big the job is.
Thanks so much!
Hi Brian, I’ve just found your channel whilst looking for reviews of the Fuji system.
Very informative.
How do you find the clean up process?
Great Review! Awesome job breaking it down.
Really accurate video. I just got a Mimi-Mite 3. And I spied that Wagner Flexio detail gun on the bench...:)
We all start somewhere! I can lay down beautiful finishes with the wagner once you get past the nuances. The fuji just makes it easier to do it and have better control.
I sure have spayed a lot of paint through that Wagner gun...
Thanks so much for your excellent review. Based on it, I'm going to buy one!
Born to teach ! This guy! Awesome video thanks!
You are very talented and great explanation.
Thank you Tim!
Hi Brian, you convinced me to buy a Fuji sprayer. I have a cap sprayer with 2 compression tanks built into it. It weighs a ton! Another problem with the Cap spray gun, besides the noise, is that it losses air compression when I'm painting a big door. I have to stop spraying in the middle of the door and let the air pressure build up again before I can continue! Real pain in the ass! My question is ,does the Fugi turbine have consistent pressure to finish a big panel like a door or a big panel cabint door? Thank you so much for your videos! so helpful!
I agree... Outstanding video... Dude oozes integrity!!!
Wonderful video, Do you have a video using the hvlp on an inside corner of baseboard? I would like to see the proper technique for stopping at an inside corner and starting at an inside corner.
Thanks
Mike
I would just work around it in one fluid motion. Try to never stop while over the material as it will build up paint in certain area more. The key is to keep a constant offset and angle with respect to the workpiece.
Brian, would you mind going over the basics of spraying latex/alkyd with the MM4? Thinning, viscosity, products you’d recommend (paint mfr),etc.? Thanks
John,
I will do a video coming up on this. Thanks!
Brian - Thank you for your approach and helpful tips. - Chris
great review! Thank you for your time brother
Great video, Can you use the spraygun tips interchangeably between the low cost spray gun and the Fuji?
Yes but I wouldn't, the tolerances can be slightly different. I only have one of the fuji's so for me I only use that set with it, doesn't make any sense to switch unless you wanted to get the cheaper sets for your fuji.
I totally enjoyed your video on the Fuji Mini-Mite. I am totally new at spray guns and I am concerned on how to clean the system. I make boxes and small projects and I am concerned that cleaning will take much longer than the spraying of the project. Also, do you have a video on how to check and change the viscosity of the spraying material? Thank you very much. Dave.
David, it's all about how you look at it. Cleanup done right takes time. You have to take all of the gun apart and clean each part, and very carefully if you want them to work well each and every time you use it. Leaving any debris will interrupt air or fluid flow. But in the same way cleaning brushes or rollers takes about as much time. The difference is both in the quality of the finish coat and the time it takes to do it. Spray finishing is far faster than any other method of applying finish, but a factor of at least 3-4x. If you're good and setup your work space efficiently you can blow right through the work. For example, if I were to spray around 20 drawer boxes, inside and out, it would take me about 20 minutes or less per coat. You would spend probably 4-5 minutes per box if done by hand and it wouldn't look nearly as good. When I do production or large quantity work I typically stage it, do half, scuff the other half while the first is drying so I'm not sitting around waiting for everything to dry. I don't have a video on viscosity but I could make one in the future. You check viscosity with a gravity viscosity cup. It basically drains fluid out and you see how long it takes to completely drain the cup. The time it takes is a function of how thick the material is. There are general guidelines for this for most finishes, and for professional finishes very specific requirements. I find that with good experience and sense of how to thin finishes I almost never check for viscosity. The more professional finishes are a bit more particular with this though. You change the viscosity by adding solvent, thinner, water, mineral spirits or whatever the finish is supposed to be thinned with. If you don't know, typically whatever is advised to clean it on the can is what you can thin it with. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for getting back to me. Again, I really enjoyed your review and I am looking forward to more items from you. By the way do you have a website I can follow?
I painted cars for 35 years a paint gun is a paint gun. Rinse/spray the gun through three times, last rinse leave the thinner in the cup and drop the air cap in, close the gun, your set. If you are shooting with a gravity feed drop the air cap in a pint can of thinner. Every once in a while you will want to pull the needle and fluid tip and clean them completely. Spraying 30k cars is a hell of a lot more demanding than a piece of wood.
brilliant video, new to spraying so its a great help, could you recommend more youtube vids on how best to thin out paints etc. I mostly work in kitchens and cabinet making
Thanks Noel! What kind of finishes are you using? Proper thinning/setup is a really broad topic I'm not sure is suited for one video, but a specific finish is. If you're doing kitchens you should use pre-catalyzed lacquers and colored lacquers, they are already thinned for spraying (usually with name brands from dealers) and are the easiest finishes to get looking good. Acrylic/latex is not designed for spray finishing but can be done just fine with the right experience and setup.
excellent commentary; very efficient and to the point!
Brian, great video. I've been learning to spray with a Wagner ControlSpray Max using Sherwin Williams ProClassic water based, but finally decided to step up to a better gun. I got results I was happy with with the Wagner but always felt like I was fighting the gun's limitations. I think I spotted one on your workbench, what do you find yourself using this for?
I just ordered the MM3. I considered the 4-stage but there were a lot of happy people on the Amazon reviews spraying latex and the MM3 was already a stretch for a hobbyist like me. I went with the gravity feed since it looks like it'll be easier to control and clean, but I appreciate the tip on the knock off guns since that means I can pick up a few cheap suction feed options as well. I wanted to mention that I got my best results on the Wagner after I started spraying with SW Kem Aqua Plus. It seems they don't promote this finish much but it's a very thin water based product ready to spray out of the can, dries in 30 mins.
Maxim, the Wagner is actually good for how simple and cheap it is. I still even use one for one type of paint that we use for another application and keep running all the time so I don't have to occupy one of our good fuji guns. The Fuji is substantially better in other areas but if I was a hobbyist I might not take the plunge, there is just no way to not beef up to a better rig when you're using it every day. Glad you got good results with the SW, it really comes out to viscosity. The cheap guns work very well if you get the finish thinned correctly. Where the more expensive ones excel is how they perform over time. The wagner guns are disposable in my opinion and the plastic parts wear out in time. There is no way to properly maintain plastic parts that are used heavily. Having all stainless or anodized aluminum gun parts ensures longevity and precision with the more difficult finishes. I think you will like the MM3 a lot, and like you said you are doing hobbyist work so you won't see the benefits from the higher end Fuji systems.
Brian, yeah I'd have to agree on the Wagner. What's been happening is that I've started getting inconsistent results spraying finishes with it. The temperature/humidity, shop conditions, and my technique haven't changed so it feels like it's the gun. I'm getting what looks like little blobs in the finish as the paint sprays, and they aren't leveling out. Sometimes I get them, sometimes I don't. Once the paint is dry it looks like acne. I've had this once spraying KA+ tinted white and twice back to back now with KA+ clear. Prior to finding the KA+ system, I would get this occasionally with a second coat of the ProClassic and consistently with GF High Performance as well. My hope is that the Fuji gives me more consistent results and a smoother output from the better atomization, where I'm not having to rely on the levelers in the paint quite so much as I feel like I'm doing with the Wagner. It was either the MM3 gun or the Earlex HV5500. I figured if I'm going to spend $400 on the Earlex, might as well spend another $200 or so to get the better Fuji gun and the third stage.
This has been the Best Video I have seen so far on any turbine unit on UA-cam. Thank you for the unbiased opinion on your purchase. I have been researching turbines versus compressors for sometime and I have now come to the conclusion that this is the best system for my small wood working business. I will be purchasing a Fuji turbine unit very soon. I do have one question for you. I notice that Fuji has another 4 stage turbine with the platinum series and I was wondering if you knew if there was a difference between them?
Hey Brian, Fantastic review. It sounds like the 4 would be great for me, but I don't know if I can justify the money. I want to do occasional latex spraying...maybe. Decisions, decisions....
Great video, good info! I've started to consider purchasing an HVLP system. I'm a professional carpenter, and do a decent amount of custom built-in bookcases and interior trim. I don't do a ton of painting on remodel projects since typically I sub out the painting, but I do pre-spray interior trim sometimes, and I almost always paint my built-in bookcases because I want ensure they are finished well. My HVLP needs would be for what I've described above, as well as personal woodworking/hobby type projects to include stains/oils/urethanes/varnish/etc. I currently use a piston pump for paints if project is large enough, otherwise I brush and roll. My concern with HVLP is the necessity of thinning, which seems like it could be a hassle, especially if larger volume where it would all need to be equally thinned but only a portion can be put in gun cup at a time. Is this a pain or what's your opinion/info on that? Thanks!
awesome info, thanks for sharing
Hello thank you for the unbiased review and recommendations for a different spray gun. So i know this is a 4 year old video. Do you have any suggestion on the fuji semi-pro? I'm inclining on either this one, or the semi pro which is half the price. I will be doing allot of refinishing of wooden furniture as a part time job/hobby lots of stain and oil based paints. Would you still recommend this machine?
This was a really helpful video so thanks for taking the time to make it. I have a Fuji Q4 but funnily enough with an Apollo gun but I've never had great success with it so I think I'll get the Aerojet gun and give it a try.
My experience seems the same - solvent finishes go on reasonably well but waterborne products have caused me more grief. The products where I am located will be different to those that you use but some guidance on your thinning strategies/needle and nozzle selection would be much appreciated. It seemed to me that the solvent products needed less finessing to get them to go on properly. I would usually add a quarter to a third by volume of solvent thinners and the gun would spray OK.
Waterborne products (especially latex) needed to be just right and temperature played a part as well (I assume their viscosity was far more temperature dependant). I added 10% water (and sometimes Floetrol - I know it's not a thinner) but even with a 1.8mm nozzle I was getting a poor finish. I wasn't game to add more water in case it affected the paint chemistry. I even tried to use a viscosity cup but the standard ones don't seem suited to latex paints (too slow to flow through).
I'd appreciate any advice you have to offer and thanks again. Cheers
Floetrol is a waste of money, I wouldn't ever use it and the paint store guys always are quick to push it on customers. I don't even measure anymore with latex/acrylic paints, I just go with viscosity by eye and do a test spray and see how it lays out. You can generalize a lot of it. One thing I have noticed is that some paints, especially darker ones in higher end like Benjamin moore cannot be thinned too much with water. It does strange things once you over saturate it with water like fish eyes and surface separation as the atomized paint lays on the surface. You will never get as good of a finish with latex as you do with something like lacquer, but with the right setup it will look really good. Humidity and temp does have a huge role as you noticed, more so with humidity than anything. High humidity swings always cause issues for me. I can do a video at a later date on help with this type of stuff but I can only really recommend trial and error. Latex/acrylic isn't designed to be sprayed fine, it's just too heavy of a paint.
Why are you using an apollo gun with a fuji turbine, was it purchased used? Usually they come with the gun as a kit. Thanks.
Thanks for taking the time to provide a great review.
that was a great video. thank you for the info. I was very helpful.
This is a great overview video. Have this exact setup on a delivery truck at the moment!
CARLOS CLASSIC I do not. Check with Fuji directly
Great review i did realy enyoed listen to yor fair points about system big thumbs up Pal
Exactly the video i needed. Thanks for spending the time an effort to make it.
+Matt Brown Thanks Matt, I am glad it was helpful for you.
Good review. Always had better luck using airless for water base.
Of course, airless is designed for it. Water based finishes are difficult to thin in many cases and they don't atomize well. Once you find a working viscosity the rest is about technique, slowing down your movements and letting it build up just right.
Great review ,very informative, answered all my questions. Thank You
Thanks Doug
Very informative video. I Recently purchased the Fuji mini mite 3 and just started spraying newly built kitchen cabinets with BM Advance . You mentioned that using lacquer and solvent based paints is more forgiving . How much more difficult is the clean up of the gun ?
Excellent information!!! Thank you!
Newbie here and question for Brian or experienced painters out there: Paint types, if I want to paint my kitchen cabinets blue or some other color and not with latex, what am I to use? When I watch videos of professional painters painting cabinets, are they using latex or something easier to apply? No matter what type of system it seems latex is kind of a pain! Thanks folks, Garry
There aren't a ton of options for homeowners but there are commercial finishes such as tinted lacquers and other solvent based finishes but you will need a dealer to get those. Your best bet is to go to a Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore dealer (not like a hardware store) and explain the application and ask for options. SW has a lot of trim and cabinet paints too that aren't latex, see what they have available.
@@briancncThanks for responding, very appreciated!
Great presentation.
Thank you Johnie!
Simply put...... thank you
Hi Brian. Great informative video. I would also like to have extra guns at a lower price. Right now I have the Fuji gun. Do the aero jet guns fit the air cap sets for the Fuji. You said they were essentially the same gun. Just wondering how literal. Thanks
As far as I remember they do, worth getting a gun and swap parts to check though to be certain nothing's changed in their design.
fantastic video - i'm fairly close to switching from a graco airless to an HVLP setup for painting birch and poplar built ins and cabinets. I'm curious what you would use (paint/lacquer) to get a nice furniture grade white finish using this setup?
Tinted lacquer and clear lacquer are super easy to put down, especially if solvent based and precat. It's my go to for professional and easy results. For something not as toxic if you don't have a spray booth latex acrylics are a good option or waterbourne lacquer. You just have to practice a lot with waterbourne as it runs very easily.
Brian, thank you so much for this video as well as your data driven type of perspective. I am very eager to get a Fuji system and the mini-mite 4 just seems like the winner for me. Couple quick questions, how are you still enjoying the system after all these years? Do you have any issues with the pot style gun not feeding material while spraying at a certain angle?
Awesome video. I get my setup this coming wknd. I do a lot of cabinet resurfacing. Curious your thoughts thinning Benjamin Moore Advance. Familiar with this at all? Again super stoked to use this!
Great video....very informative....do you think it would be good for finishing guitars? It seems so.....thank you
GREAT demo dude! Thank you. Answered a lot of questions ..
Thank you!
Ever spray FFP ( Fine Paints of Europe ) oil with this unit? Great info and review.
I wish I've seen this video a few month ago..very well explained, thanks man!
Thank you!