Thank you for watching, you can find part 1 of this series here ua-cam.com/video/ffsVFg4kSvg/v-deo.html and I hope you'll join me in part 3, coming soon! If you enjoy what I do and would like to help me hit the incredible milestone of 1000 patrons supporting The Cave then head on over to patreon.com/rmcretro - We're so close now! Thank you - Neil - RMC
On the A600 it's important to deoxyde the audio connectors because commodore used the "cut-off when inserted" feature to switch to mono sound if the right channel is connected and nothing is connected to the left one. This is acheived by mixing the two channels when there is nothing inserted in the left channel. So it's a common failure to have a degraded sound quality because of dirt and oxydation in the connectors. Sometimes you even have to bend back the pins in the connectors to restore enough contact to make everything work as intended.
This is excellent as always Neil and it has inspired me to plan to enrol to my local college to do an electronics course asap. I studied it briefly in 1988 as part of an IT course at the time , so it was a long time ago. I have both an old Amiga 500+ and Spectrum 48K that I would love to repair and reuse. Especially for all those 100s of classic games that I have stored away.
Verily, I do declare, Neil has the most soothing voice I've ever come across; should he ever take up narrating audio books, I would probably become attracted to that medium.
not sure what would happen there with 220v, but here after removing old caps we hook them to the end of a long wire run out the window then plug the other end in to 110v, to keep the kids entertained you know
As somebody working in industrial electronics for 30 years now, could I offer you some pointers? The solder does not go on the soldering gun. You heat the pad with the gun, and you apply solder to the pad... and most importantly, you do not, EVER, BUTTER the solder. Let it flow onto the pad. It will settle and the solder mask will square it up. SMD components really are easy to work with, you just need a good pair of tweezers. Eventually, good job!!!
Thank you, if you need more things to keep you busy while recovering then give the podcast a try! Take it easy and I hope you have a swift recovery - anchor.fm/thisweekinretro/episodes/TWiR-Episode-16---Video-Games-Make-Lots-of-Money--The-Super-Famicom-Turns-30--Capcom-Mini-Arcade--Codemasters-sells-to-Take-Two-en0ctm
On the pad that looked dull when you removed the cap, that's because the solder wasn't entirely molten when that cap came off. Pads can look exactly like that when you use the grab and twist method of cap removal.
I have never removed the kbd connector and audio ports like that for a recap. I surround the parts in Polyimide Kapton Tape and use a small 12w iron. But I am impressed with your approach to ensure you can recap with more space.
I feel like I could watch hours of chill soldering and desoldering. I always liked the A600 for its form factor (and the incredibly subjective fact that it was the machine I had access to). Fantastic video mate.
What patience! Massively informative! Another wonderful video by RMC. This is professionally produced, on a par with expensive commercial TV programmes. RMC is a UA-cam gem. I particularly appreciate the voice over and clear camera shots of the small motherboard. Also, thanks for the name change - no doubt both men and women are watching this channel. Keep up the excellent work! Marius
Neil, what you had going on with the strange reflection on the solder under your cap was evidence of the joint not fully reflowing before removal of the cap. Effectively the solder had only melted at the point of contact with the lead. This leaves an imprint of the lead on top of the solder causing this strange reflection. I'm pleased to see you wicking and replacing all of the solder, so many repair techs just reflow the old solder onto new components, not best practice. Get yourself a good set of tweezers though. Oh, and some no clean flux gel too.
Neil, you are fantastic to watch, you really do seem like the sort of person I would like to know irl. That’s the highest compliment I could give you. Keep it up my friend I love what you do.
Nice, 10.5MB. The maximum possible RAM in an amiga without a 68020 or better CPU. 2MB Chip, 8MB Fast, 1.5MB 'Slow' (but actually fast in this case). I like that the CPU RAM expansion actually uses the 1.5MB space at C00000 in addition to the 8MB space at 200000.
I never knew until watching these first 2 episodes that the A600 had such a bad reputation. Unlike kids today, back in the 90's it was a case of you got what you were given. I received an A600 one Christmas (can't remember the year) as an upgrade from my Spectrum 128k. I was blown away and that A600 has so many amazing memories from my childhood.
One trick that I have seen where it comes to removing surface mounted capacitors is to simply rotate them with a pair of long nose pliers. This will essentially pull the legs away from the pads horizontally so that the legs or solder gives way while the pads stay in place. At that point a bit of soldering iron + solder braid action and you would be ready to install the new caps. I think I got this from Adrian's Digital Basement.
The new model A600 with its dodgy capacitors was like the "R5-D4" compared to the old reliable A500 "R2-D2". I got my A1200 out of the attic about a month ago, after maybe 17 years, and it worked fine, even the floppy disks still read ok after all that time in the attic.
A free fix for the broken switch in that Philips monitor is to just bypass it, by soldering the wires to the terminals on one side of the switch. You can then switch it off by pulling the plug out. I've done this with several Philips monitors, colour and monochrome.
The quit feature in WHDLoad requires an 68010 or better model. It depends on a CPU feature not present in a stock 68000. www.whdload.de/docs/en/need.html
Small tip for whdload quit key: on your amiga with UK keyboard (like mine) you have a couple of blank keys. I mapped the default quit key to one of them so I never quit a game by mistake. To do this, go to S: and edit the whdload.prefs file, adding the line "QuitKey=$30". This will let you use the blank key beside your shift key. Since you have a 68000 most of the time it won't work, unless who packaged the game has setup special code in the slave. If you get a furia with 68020 it will work on every game. The 600 is my favourite machine.
That's a good idea thank you. I'm having good results with quitting so far now I have it all setup, I'd say about 90% of games quit OK which is far higher than I was expecting. I'm off to change the quit key now!
Nice video. In my Amiga 600 restoration-video I replaced those caps near the audio jacks without removing any other components. It was fiddly, but no problem.
My favorite channel. I could watch RMC all day long. Absolutely love everything about Neil and the content he produces. I wish the cave was a hotel and you could stay for days to enjoy all the retro memories once again! Great job! I wish I had the time and experience to carry out such tasks, albeit Istill retain some of the old IT knowledge for working machines at least thankfully.
Great episode! I enjoyed that. I spotted your ROM version and winced a bit when I saw 37.299! Luckily for me my rev 1.5 A600 came with 37.300 that does support IDE! I have it running a WB 2.05 HDD install on a compact flash card and it has a 4MB Fast RAM expansion and does WHDLoad nicely. Some games, that don't require the print screen key on the numeric keypad it doesn't have, will exit back to workbench if the author of the WHDLoad slave has altered the game to allow it to work on a 68000, apparently it needs an 020 or newer to guarantee that you can exit to WB from the game using the key. On my system quite a few games will let me exit to WB whilst others need a quick Ctrl amiga amiga :) My system boots WB pretty quick so im not waiting very long.
It's just like you read my mind, I just recapped my old Amiga 600 a few days ago... Not so elegant and I used most ceramics, but hey it still works and it was really about time, electrolyte isn't forgiving... Thanks for this great video Neil, it was a real pleasure. Greetings from Germany, stay healthy!
The unloved stepdaughter, with today's possibilities, can be the first Amiga choice. I liked this machine from the start.. (Yes... no AGA without Vampire-Hardware) :-)
As soon as I saw the Kickstart screen, I remembered the lack of IDE support from my original, something I sorted back in the day by upgrading to 2.05 ROMs
Hi Neil kudos for this video! Another tip for using WHDload on an A600 is to modify the WHDLoad quit key, since some of the keys are on the numeric keypad [example the asterisk *, etc]...hence I set it to use one blank key the [master quit key] for all games :)
Great video again Neil. You're beginning to soften my bitterness towards this wedge of cheese. Awesome production as always, you never fail to inspire us infant channels.
Great episode, so nice to see another Amiga get some TLC even if it is the runt of the family. Love the quip now we have no audio output but it still sounds better than an Atari ST.👍🏻
Thank you for a decent walk though on replacing caps. To many people do more harm than good ripping them of the board or ripping up pads because there not patient enough. it takes time and a lot of practice. The only thing I would add is after you slide your cap into your solder puddle, solder the other side then come back to your first side and give it a little reheat to make sure that both the cap lead and the pad had the same amount of heat to solder together and you don't end up with any cold solder joints where the cap lead is under the solder puddle but not soldered to it. But over all this is quite good __
i was so happy to see you switching on this lady and it .... works! Very nice job! I like your videos doing stuff like this. i had learned alot! Thank you very much for sharing this!!!!!! really nice!!!!! :)
I've found it to be expedient for the occasional leg that tacks back on to the side of the pad to just have a set of those fat/wider tweezers on hand saves a bit of time. You can either physically pull the pin off the side but with those fat tweezers it's often enough to position them between the pins and turn them so that the mechanical action separates the pin from the edge of the pad/hole. Obviously only for pins that are just slightly tacked on, don't do this if there is a lot of solder on there or you might damage the pad. Just my 2 cents. It does save a bit of time EDIT: Tweezers as wide as a flathead screwdiver
I'm hoping you are going to make me love my A600. I bought it a few years ago for £50 as my first real "retro" computer and I've never been to sold on it...
I maintain that the two soldering iron method is by far the best method to remove SMD caps. The second iron doesn’t even need to be anything special. A cheapie special is fine.
Absolutely loved this! Moo gun! It’s not just me that thinks this! This captured my approaches, feelings and luck (monitor switches) to the tee. Abs as I said, I had the same rom issues. Very amusing, and as always very informative. Looking forward to part three. You smashed this, Neil ;)
"Why you!" fist shaking, nah the ST struggled with sound. ;) Hah, soiling your own bed, great way to describe bad caps. Very cute power supply. You made Mark so sad, for shame, he even brought his Commodore Super Scope and everything. :(
Nice work, as always. Although I have replaced lots of components over the years, I have never done surface mount capacitors, so your video is very useful. Looking forward to part three, when I am sure you will declare your new found love for this Amiga!
A "tip", for larger ground planes my way of desoldering is with a manual desolder pump and a soldering tip with more mass, like a knife tip you can do it really fast, actually I rarely use my 808 to desolder since I learned to use a manual desoldering pump, I only use when I have a large IC with a lot of legs to desolder, what is rare for me...
Beautiful piano playing sir! I didn't think Thanksgiving day here could get much better, but an Amiga recap? Oh that is sublime- rock most awesomely on!
Very informative video, this and Jan betas video has given me abit more insight and confidence into doing this one day to my Amiga 600 that I just bought.
Ah, I used to play Cannon Fodder on this all the time. I still have the game. Also played Syndicate a lot. And a very difficult adventure game called KGB. I'm remembering a lot more now. :)
You should shield the metal cans in the modulator section. If you get those hot they fail and the video output will be lost. And you can't get those components anymore and you end up needing to replace the video encoder with a different one that doesn't need them to get it back.
6:37 I was actually going to comment on that :-) it's hard enough to desolder stuff (although admittedly SMD is easier), you're also doing a great job at making sure we see the action very well :-)
I have all the Amiga Classics except the CD-32, CDTV and Tower's. If you add an accelerator the A600 becomes very impressive and its small foot print is very desirable. I never gave the A600 a thought but it was its small size that made me fall in love with it and yea I did upgrade mine but as with all Amigas you going to upgrade something. Software which makes use of the keys the A600 is missing is its real weak point but if you have an A600 you probably own one or more other Amiga Models so its not really a big deal.
As i was waiting for my 4mb fastram expansion to arrive i couldnt resist trying out some Whdload games and i found a way to do that. Tinylauncher has a feature called RAD wich when turned on will reboot the Amiga and launch the game before anything else is loaded into memory. I got quite a few games to launch that way :)
I've completed a handful of surface recaps like these and I would be thrilled if any one of them turned out as clean as your A600. I need to practice more and perhaps invest in a desoldering iron too!
Nice video! I have an A500 and an A1200 up in the loft, last got the A1200 out a few years ago. Had no picture via the rf out, had to use the A500 modulator in the RGB socket. I'd like to think it's just dodgy caps causing the lack of rf out, but it's probably something else. Not that it matters much if I decide to use it with a monitor or scart lead. It'd be nice to get the WHDLoad setup going in it and maybe a few other upgrades like memory and stuff. Be good to do both the A500 and A1200 actually, got a nice number of ex-broadcast monitors to set them and my other stuff up on eventually! Pretty sure the Philips CM8833 MkII had the switch problem as well. I have an Archimedes monitor (like they used on the A3000) as well that had that problem but I think it must've been a rebadged Philips.
I'm not yet done with the video but since you didn't protect the IDE connector, the black plastic melted a little bit. Easy to replace though so no big deal!
The 600 is a good machine nowadays considering it has the 2mb Agnus, right? As far as your (de)soldering work, I believe it is a good idea to not work right next to the last desolder point so that the heat doesn't build up too much in that location. The floppy drive has electrolytic capacitors as well. I noticed how careful you were to not remove pads, traces and barrels. Great job with the video I enjoyed it. Cheers.
Watching this, I'm reminded that I really should pull out my A2000 at some point and see if there are any issues with it, especially battery leakage. :-/
Brilliant episode Neil. Your doing a fabulous job with your A600. Wish i had your soldering skills, but i am learning a thing or two here and there. Great Turrican 3 Box. I got one of those also. Got it this year, and it is my most expensive Amiga Box i own now. Cannon Fodder another classic. Im already looking forward to episode 3. I am certain your gonna be pleased with the A600 in the end. A quick question if you get time to answer. Where did you get your display stands from? Those clear Stands which hold your Consoles/Keyboards on? Anyway thanks for the video, really enjoyed it.
I always thought the 600 was a very sexy looking machine...certainly the advertisement back then contributed to that notion ... unfortunately my dad didn't allow (read pay for) me to 'upgrade' from the A500
There was, but it is a very different game compared to Turrican 1 & 2. It was originally made for SEGA Mega Drive and converted to Amiga. There no large open area to explore, no alternative paths or secrets, it is now a simple straightforward platform shooter, and a very easy one at that. Not a bad game but not really comparable to its more famous predecessors.
Who couldn't love a bit of canon fodder, I have a 1200 that I brought os 3.1.4 for I managed to burn my own kick roms with with a burner I got off ebay, it looks pretty good with 2018 date I believe it has. You should get a vampire that would turn it in to a rocket ship.
Thank you for watching, you can find part 1 of this series here ua-cam.com/video/ffsVFg4kSvg/v-deo.html
and I hope you'll join me in part 3, coming soon! If you enjoy what I do and would like to help me hit the incredible milestone of 1000 patrons supporting The Cave then head on over to patreon.com/rmcretro - We're so close now!
Thank you - Neil - RMC
On the A600 it's important to deoxyde the audio connectors because commodore used the "cut-off when inserted" feature to switch to mono sound if the right channel is connected and nothing is connected to the left one. This is acheived by mixing the two channels when there is nothing inserted in the left channel. So it's a common failure to have a degraded sound quality because of dirt and oxydation in the connectors. Sometimes you even have to bend back the pins in the connectors to restore enough contact to make everything work as intended.
Honestly? The A600 seems like a winning little system, especially with the upgrades. Looking forward to the next episode! Cheers!
This is excellent as always Neil and it has inspired me to plan to enrol to my local college to do an electronics course asap. I studied it briefly in 1988 as part of an IT course at the time , so it was a long time ago. I have both an old Amiga 500+ and Spectrum 48K that I would love to repair and reuse. Especially for all those 100s of classic games that I have stored away.
this has to be one of the coziest, relaxing, retro channels on all of youtube. love it!
Thank you!
Verily, I do declare, Neil has the most soothing voice I've ever come across; should he ever take up narrating audio books, I would probably become attracted to that medium.
"Our Amiga is now silent... even in this state, it is alleged that it sounds better than an Atari ST."
True, true... not being a hater or anything.
5:34 "And to remove the surface mount capacitors, we just use a pair of pliers."
_Adrian Black has entered the chat_
not sure what would happen there with 220v, but here after removing old caps we hook them to the end of a long wire run out the window then plug the other end in to 110v, to keep the kids entertained you know
Something so relaxing about watching old tech being repaired.
The speeded up de-soldering gun sounds like a Lemming. 😁
You are getting old :D (like me)
My thoughts exactly :D
It’s uncanny
@@XGreenThumbCame here to make the same remark!
As somebody working in industrial electronics for 30 years now, could I offer you some pointers? The solder does not go on the soldering gun. You heat the pad with the gun, and you apply solder to the pad... and most importantly, you do not, EVER, BUTTER the solder. Let it flow onto the pad. It will settle and the solder mask will square it up. SMD components really are easy to work with, you just need a good pair of tweezers. Eventually, good job!!!
Here's one for your next reading comments video. Your voice is so calming. I just had surgery yesterday, and this video is so relaxing.
Thank you, if you need more things to keep you busy while recovering then give the podcast a try! Take it easy and I hope you have a swift recovery - anchor.fm/thisweekinretro/episodes/TWiR-Episode-16---Video-Games-Make-Lots-of-Money--The-Super-Famicom-Turns-30--Capcom-Mini-Arcade--Codemasters-sells-to-Take-Two-en0ctm
Eric, may you have a speedy and full recovery; best wishes from Denmark
Aww, Neil, your tip is an adequate size my friend lol.
Thank you Scott. As the expert on such matters it means a lot having your approval 😬
Apparently it's all about technique
As an Atari ST user, I don't have that problem. It is quite often found to be the case with Amiga users, however. :p
On the pad that looked dull when you removed the cap, that's because the solder wasn't entirely molten when that cap came off. Pads can look exactly like that when you use the grab and twist method of cap removal.
Neil in 2020: "Don't ever be shy with the flux."
Neil and Mark in 2021 are introduced to the CD32 FMV module.
I have never removed the kbd connector and audio ports like that for a recap. I surround the parts in Polyimide Kapton Tape and use a small 12w iron. But I am impressed with your approach to ensure you can recap with more space.
I feel like I could watch hours of chill soldering and desoldering. I always liked the A600 for its form factor (and the incredibly subjective fact that it was the machine I had access to). Fantastic video mate.
What patience! Massively informative! Another wonderful video by RMC. This is professionally produced, on a par with expensive commercial TV programmes. RMC is a UA-cam gem. I particularly appreciate the voice over and clear camera shots of the small motherboard. Also, thanks for the name change - no doubt both men and women are watching this channel. Keep up the excellent work! Marius
Thank you Bob I'm glad you're enjoying it because I'm really enjoying working on this one. Thank you for the kind words
Neil, what you had going on with the strange reflection on the solder under your cap was evidence of the joint not fully reflowing before removal of the cap. Effectively the solder had only melted at the point of contact with the lead. This leaves an imprint of the lead on top of the solder causing this strange reflection.
I'm pleased to see you wicking and replacing all of the solder, so many repair techs just reflow the old solder onto new components, not best practice.
Get yourself a good set of tweezers though. Oh, and some no clean flux gel too.
I know next to nothing about soldering but watching you do this is just so therapeutic and calming.
Neil, you are fantastic to watch, you really do seem like the sort of person I would like to know irl. That’s the highest compliment I could give you. Keep it up my friend I love what you do.
That's really kind thank you so much, and I love what I do too and am very privileged to be able to share it with you all. Thank you.
2:36 How they made the Lemmings dying sound finally revealed! A sped up soldering gun! :D
That's what I thought. :)
It was just about to write the same thing!
I know right, he says RMC doesn't do drama, and it's true, this channel is so soothing.
Thank you Jon
Your videos are so THERAPEUTIC, just pure pleasure to watch and to listen to, it really helps me in my life. Thank you for this dear sir
Thank you, that's really nice to hear and I'm glad I can help in some small way
Nice, 10.5MB. The maximum possible RAM in an amiga without a 68020 or better CPU. 2MB Chip, 8MB Fast, 1.5MB 'Slow' (but actually fast in this case). I like that the CPU RAM expansion actually uses the 1.5MB space at C00000 in addition to the 8MB space at 200000.
I never knew until watching these first 2 episodes that the A600 had such a bad reputation. Unlike kids today, back in the 90's it was a case of you got what you were given. I received an A600 one Christmas (can't remember the year) as an upgrade from my Spectrum 128k. I was blown away and that A600 has so many amazing memories from my childhood.
One trick that I have seen where it comes to removing surface mounted capacitors is to simply rotate them with a pair of long nose pliers. This will essentially pull the legs away from the pads horizontally so that the legs or solder gives way while the pads stay in place. At that point a bit of soldering iron + solder braid action and you would be ready to install the new caps. I think I got this from Adrian's Digital Basement.
The new model A600 with its dodgy capacitors was like the "R5-D4" compared to the old reliable A500 "R2-D2".
I got my A1200 out of the attic about a month ago, after maybe 17 years, and it worked fine, even the floppy disks still read ok after all that time in the attic.
A free fix for the broken switch in that Philips monitor is to just bypass it, by soldering the wires to the terminals on one side of the switch. You can then switch it off by pulling the plug out. I've done this with several Philips monitors, colour and monochrome.
My first Amiga ever, not very loved that years but now it had a revenge after the Vampire upgrade!
It's great to see old computers up and running well again :)
That shielding made noises that hurt my teeth
Cannon Fodder made noise that warmed my heart ♥
The quit feature in WHDLoad requires an 68010 or better model. It depends on a CPU feature not present in a stock 68000. www.whdload.de/docs/en/need.html
Was going to mention this, but you beat me to it.
The quit key works on a 68000 with some games, but apparently not this one!
I just finished part 1 and now I get to watch part 2. I'm finally caught up and get to watch current RMC restorations. :)
I can't stop watching your videos man, too many interesting stuff
Thank you! Glad you're enjoying them
Had a A600 back in the days with 80MB harddrive and 1MB ekstra chipmem. Love the formfactor. Think it look cool and modern even today
Small tip for whdload quit key: on your amiga with UK keyboard (like mine) you have a couple of blank keys. I mapped the default quit key to one of them so I never quit a game by mistake.
To do this, go to S: and edit the whdload.prefs file, adding the line "QuitKey=$30". This will let you use the blank key beside your shift key. Since you have a 68000 most of the time it won't work, unless who packaged the game has setup special code in the slave. If you get a furia with 68020 it will work on every game. The 600 is my favourite machine.
That's a good idea thank you. I'm having good results with quitting so far now I have it all setup, I'd say about 90% of games quit OK which is far higher than I was expecting. I'm off to change the quit key now!
Nice video. In my Amiga 600 restoration-video I replaced those caps near the audio jacks without removing any other components. It was fiddly, but no problem.
My favorite channel. I could watch RMC all day long. Absolutely love everything about Neil and the content he produces. I wish the cave was a hotel and you could stay for days to enjoy all the retro memories once again! Great job! I wish I had the time and experience to carry out such tasks, albeit Istill retain some of the old IT knowledge for working machines at least thankfully.
Great episode! I enjoyed that.
I spotted your ROM version and winced a bit when I saw 37.299! Luckily for me my rev 1.5 A600 came with 37.300 that does support IDE!
I have it running a WB 2.05 HDD install on a compact flash card and it has a 4MB Fast RAM expansion and does WHDLoad nicely.
Some games, that don't require the print screen key on the numeric keypad it doesn't have, will exit back to workbench if the author of the WHDLoad slave has altered the game to allow it to work on a 68000, apparently it needs an 020 or newer to guarantee that you can exit to WB from the game using the key.
On my system quite a few games will let me exit to WB whilst others need a quick Ctrl amiga amiga :) My system boots WB pretty quick so im not waiting very long.
It's just like you read my mind, I just recapped my old Amiga 600 a few days ago... Not so elegant and I used most ceramics, but hey it still works and it was really about time, electrolyte isn't forgiving... Thanks for this great video Neil, it was a real pleasure. Greetings from Germany, stay healthy!
Thank you, greetings to Germany and I hope you're keeping well yourself!
I remember my A600 coming with the 2.04 Kickstart ROM. Had jump the Tube to buy a 2.05 when I installed its HDD.
The unloved stepdaughter, with today's possibilities, can be the first Amiga choice. I liked this machine from the start.. (Yes... no AGA without Vampire-Hardware) :-)
I wonder if the CPU in the PSU screen is more powerful than the Amiga it's powering?
Most likely
As soon as I saw the Kickstart screen, I remembered the lack of IDE support from my original, something I sorted back in the day by upgrading to 2.05 ROMs
Hi Neil kudos for this video! Another tip for using WHDload on an A600 is to modify the WHDLoad quit key, since some of the keys are on the numeric keypad [example the asterisk *, etc]...hence I set it to use one blank key the [master quit key] for all games :)
Thank you, yes someone told me to map $30 for quit using the blank key, I had it mapped to F10 - I really like this idea, great tip
Great video again Neil. You're beginning to soften my bitterness towards this wedge of cheese. Awesome production as always, you never fail to inspire us infant channels.
Great episode, so nice to see another Amiga get some TLC even if it is the runt of the family. Love the quip now we have no audio output but it still sounds better than an Atari ST.👍🏻
The Amiga was the British pride and joy. The Megadrive and Snes? The Amiga blew them away.
That was fighting talk in my playground
Very nice work and chat. I also own one of those power supplies with the OLED status and I really like it. Very compact and works perfectly.
There's no stopping the almighty AMIGA
Thank you for a decent walk though on replacing caps. To many people do more harm than good ripping them of the board or ripping up pads because there not patient enough. it takes time and a lot of practice.
The only thing I would add is after you slide your cap into your solder puddle, solder the other side then come back to your first side and give it a little reheat to make sure that both the cap lead and the pad had the same amount of heat to solder together and you don't end up with any cold solder joints where the cap lead is under the solder puddle but not soldered to it. But over all this is quite good __
i was so happy to see you switching on this lady and it .... works! Very nice job! I like your videos doing stuff like this. i had learned alot! Thank you very much for sharing this!!!!!! really nice!!!!! :)
You are welcome and thank you very much
Your piano playing has seriously improved since the Yamaha Music Computer -video.
Thanks Mikko :D
I've found it to be expedient for the occasional leg that tacks back on to the side of the pad to just have a set of those fat/wider tweezers on hand saves a bit of time. You can either physically pull the pin off the side but with those fat tweezers it's often enough to position them between the pins and turn them so that the mechanical action separates the pin from the edge of the pad/hole. Obviously only for pins that are just slightly tacked on, don't do this if there is a lot of solder on there or you might damage the pad.
Just my 2 cents. It does save a bit of time
EDIT: Tweezers as wide as a flathead screwdiver
Really good series so far. Beautiful, meticulous re-capping job. Looking forward to part 3. Cheers
Thank you Pauline
That de-soldering is so much fun to watch.
The cut to Mark had me in stitches, mein Gott.
Poor Mark
I'm hoping you are going to make me love my A600. I bought it a few years ago for £50 as my first real "retro" computer and I've never been to sold on it...
I maintain that the two soldering iron method is by far the best method to remove SMD caps. The second iron doesn’t even need to be anything special. A cheapie special is fine.
Absolutely loved this! Moo gun! It’s not just me that thinks this! This captured my approaches, feelings and luck (monitor switches) to the tee. Abs as I said, I had the same rom issues. Very amusing, and as always very informative. Looking forward to part three. You smashed this, Neil ;)
Don't forget the Nylon screw and nut to lock that board that you put over the chip.
"Why you!" fist shaking, nah the ST struggled with sound. ;) Hah, soiling your own bed, great way to describe bad caps. Very cute power supply. You made Mark so sad, for shame, he even brought his Commodore Super Scope and everything. :(
Poor Mark :( - I promise he will be happier in part 3
Nice work, as always. Although I have replaced lots of components over the years, I have never done surface mount capacitors, so your video is very useful. Looking forward to part three, when I am sure you will declare your new found love for this Amiga!
A "tip", for larger ground planes my way of desoldering is with a manual desolder pump and a soldering tip with more mass, like a knife tip you can do it really fast, actually I rarely use my 808 to desolder since I learned to use a manual desoldering pump, I only use when I have a large IC with a lot of legs to desolder, what is rare for me...
Beautiful piano playing sir! I didn't think Thanksgiving day here could get much better, but an Amiga recap? Oh that is sublime- rock most awesomely on!
love your videos and just getting A600 off ebay Keep up the good work
Yet again trip down memory Lane and when you loaded Cannon Fodder I let out a little yay! Loved that game.
Such a beautiful job on the caps.
Very informative video, this and Jan betas video has given me abit more insight and confidence into doing this one day to my Amiga 600 that I just bought.
Great to hear, we love Jan he's a very talented chap
Ah, I used to play Cannon Fodder on this all the time. I still have the game. Also played Syndicate a lot. And a very difficult adventure game called KGB. I'm remembering a lot more now. :)
Recap on the re-cap :D
You should shield the metal cans in the modulator section. If you get those hot they fail and the video output will be lost. And you can't get those components anymore and you end up needing to replace the video encoder with a different one that doesn't need them to get it back.
Soldering tip for the future - clean the soldering tip frequently and dip it in the solder paste before every solder operation 🙂
Ain't no one got time for that
Being the tight Arse Yorkshireman i am, i often reuse the solder left on the pads!!! usually, not always it depends on my mood.
6:37 I was actually going to comment on that :-) it's hard enough to desolder stuff (although admittedly SMD is easier), you're also doing a great job at making sure we see the action very well :-)
That touchscreen power supply made my day, never seen something like this before! 😂
I have all the Amiga Classics except the CD-32, CDTV and Tower's. If you add an accelerator the A600 becomes very impressive and its small foot print is very desirable. I never gave the A600 a thought but it was its small size that made me fall in love with it and yea I did upgrade mine but as with all Amigas you going to upgrade something. Software which makes use of the keys the A600 is missing is its real weak point but if you have an A600 you probably own one or more other Amiga Models so its not really a big deal.
As i was waiting for my 4mb fastram expansion to arrive i couldnt resist trying out some Whdload games and i found a way to do that. Tinylauncher has a feature called RAD wich when turned on will reboot the Amiga and launch the game before anything else is loaded into memory. I got quite a few games to launch that way :)
I have 2 of those philips monitors that I still use with my Amigas
Hi Neil, I received my copy of Retro Tea Breaks Vol 1. Great stuff. Keep up the good work. :-)
Excellent thank you so much for backing it Mike
15:40 best part of the entire video hand's down.
Look at his unhappy face :(
@@RMCRetro poor thing you need to fix this in the next episode with Games!
I've completed a handful of surface recaps like these and I would be thrilled if any one of them turned out as clean as your A600. I need to practice more and perhaps invest in a desoldering iron too!
Great video. Amiga still rulez!!
Nice video! I have an A500 and an A1200 up in the loft, last got the A1200 out a few years ago. Had no picture via the rf out, had to use the A500 modulator in the RGB socket. I'd like to think it's just dodgy caps causing the lack of rf out, but it's probably something else. Not that it matters much if I decide to use it with a monitor or scart lead. It'd be nice to get the WHDLoad setup going in it and maybe a few other upgrades like memory and stuff. Be good to do both the A500 and A1200 actually, got a nice number of ex-broadcast monitors to set them and my other stuff up on eventually! Pretty sure the Philips CM8833 MkII had the switch problem as well. I have an Archimedes monitor (like they used on the A3000) as well that had that problem but I think it must've been a rebadged Philips.
That date sticker... if that Amiga is ever sent to the USA, then your new caps will have gotten older by about a month!
new follower, came from LGR. Great channel and content.
I'm not yet done with the video but since you didn't protect the IDE connector, the black plastic melted a little bit.
Easy to replace though so no big deal!
brilliant work i love the amiga
The 600 is a good machine nowadays considering it has the 2mb Agnus, right? As far as your (de)soldering work, I believe it is a good idea to not work right next to the last desolder point so that the heat doesn't build up too much in that location. The floppy drive has electrolytic capacitors as well. I noticed how careful you were to not remove pads, traces and barrels. Great job with the video I enjoyed it. Cheers.
Enjoyed that your videos are so therapeutic..... although you do remind me of Dexter when you put your gloves on :-)
Fell foul of the bizarre .299 version of the kickstart 2.0 ROM myself - I have to say it took me much longer to work out that was the problem :)
Same. Commodore couldn't give the remaining .001 to make the machine functional 😣
"will there be magic smoke"
Proceeds to hover melon immediately above micro
I literally just stroked my screen where your avatar is thinking I had a stray hair on my laptop.
cannon fodder ran fine on my a600 which had no extra ram, or is that just through whdload
Watching this, I'm reminded that I really should pull out my A2000 at some point and see if there are any issues with it, especially battery leakage. :-/
Brilliant episode Neil. Your doing a fabulous job with your A600. Wish i had your soldering skills, but i am learning a thing or two here and there.
Great Turrican 3 Box. I got one of those also. Got it this year, and it is my most expensive Amiga Box i own now.
Cannon Fodder another classic.
Im already looking forward to episode 3. I am certain your gonna be pleased with the A600 in the end.
A quick question if you get time to answer. Where did you get your display stands from? Those clear Stands which hold your Consoles/Keyboards on?
Anyway thanks for the video, really enjoyed it.
I'll drop you a DM on the socials Jamie with some details
👍 Nice job Neil.
It's the best Amiga now - you can get an A600 + furia for less than a stock A1200 and it'll run rings around it.
I always thought the 600 was a very sexy looking machine...certainly the advertisement back then contributed to that notion ... unfortunately my dad didn't allow (read pay for) me to 'upgrade' from the A500
love the comment at 4:20
I never knew there was a 3rd Turrican game. I loved 1 and 2.
There was, but it is a very different game compared to Turrican 1 & 2. It was originally made for SEGA Mega Drive and converted to Amiga. There no large open area to explore, no alternative paths or secrets, it is now a simple straightforward platform shooter, and a very easy one at that. Not a bad game but not really comparable to its more famous predecessors.
Canon Fodder...such a great game.
Learn to love the 'sad' 600
Who couldn't love a bit of canon fodder, I have a 1200 that I brought os 3.1.4 for I managed to burn my own kick roms with with a burner I got off ebay, it looks pretty good with 2018 date I believe it has. You should get a vampire that would turn it in to a rocket ship.