This is incredible. I can't believe how close to that template the end result was. And the rice cooker steamer box, haha brilliant. If it were me I probably would have just eye balled the new template and done some trial and error.
Watching Pat and you as he made his sides was no different then any other builders I have seen. Lots of expensive equipment and beautiful wood with an excellent result. Your vid made it easy with the same stuff I have at home, a table saw, clamps, and a rice cooker. You are the outsider busting in, you are awesome.
Every one of your videos is impressive, but your ingenuity in this video blew my socks off! Rice cooker steam chamber? Radius gauge out of a dial indicator? Tightening the curvature of the form to account for spring-back? You're an absolute genius, Matthias!
The rice cooker chimney idea...GENIUS in conception and operation! Thanks also for doing the footwork of establishing a 20% reduction in radii to compensate for spring back! If/when I get out the corpse of a rice cooker in my pantry, I'll make one and try it on some walnut or cherry. I'll try to post a video when I get a working setup. Again, thanks!
I really appreciate your trial and error approaches. More of an educated guess system. You give me courage to try experimentation on my projects. Thank you.
problem with light bulbs inside the form is that the wood doesn't heat until it touches the form. But it's been suggested to use the oven. That might be a neat thing to try. Once the wood is on the form, dryness won't crack it, so make a bending form without any glue, eliminate the clamps, and then just bake the whole thing in the oven.
You are a genius, I am going to scale this up for guitar work. The idea to make an instrument out of oak is great, save the rainforest and the guitar wont know. Looking at things from a new perspective gives new ideas and better products, thank you Matthias.
Your "relaxation" approximation is brilliant! Congratulations. When your ukulele is finished, I hope you'll learn how to play, if it's not already the case.
I'm liking the start of this series already, what a unique project and it should test your wood working skills. I like your use of the rice cooker, very ingenious.
Your friend used a metal band/strap to support the wood when bending. I understand that by placing the strap on the outside (tension side of wood), you shift the neutral axis toward the outside, thereby placing more wood in compression and reducing the likelihood of rupture on the tension side. But, then, you seem to have managed without! Great job - looking forward to the rest of this series!
Good ideas in this video: Building angle gauge: ✓ Overbending shape and calculating how to do it: ✓ Chimney steamer: ✓ Thanks for these inspiring videos.
Oak actaully bends reasonably well, and is often used for steam bending. I think people mostly use exotic woods because, if you put that much effort into building a guitar, you might as well spend a few bucks on some fancy wood.
But he was talking about alignment, not springback. And the wood doesn't stretch significantly in length, so I don't see how clamping the ends first vs middle first will affect springback.
I enjoy your videos. This one brought home a point that needs to be spread out to all schools and especially math teachers. So often kids want to know why they need to learn math. Most of the time they figure knowing how to add, subtract, multipy and divide so they can buy or sell things is all they need. Your video shows one way that math is needed in a more in depth way. Perhaps you could produce a version of something like this video showing some of the various ways you use math.
I also think that this could have affected the way of the wood springing back a bit. If you would have fastened the two outer claps first and then the middle one, this would have probably pulled the wood much tighter around the radie of the form and would have also put the it under quite a bit of tension but hey - I have no idea and have never tried steam bending... Your calculations and the new, tighter bending form are a really clever solution to that problem! Great vid as always!
I love the rice cooker solution you came up with. I don't think you will have any problems with your choice of side woods. The sides are supposed to be inert in regards to the sound of an ukulele -- to top "soundboard" being the most important. I think I will be using a more traditional bending method when I make my ukulele -- using a homemade bending iron -- but I am always amazed at the ground up solutions you come up with on your projects.
Where there's a will, there's a way! I would have given up or changed my final design after seeing how much initial spring back there was. But the solution you came up with is why I'm subscribed to your channel. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out!
I think this is a good observation because it makes more sense to tighten the clamps in a balanced manner. In theory, leaving some slack in the middle of the work until the ends are bent allows more area to absorb the bending stresses. But, I have never bent wood so I don't know if there is any difference in results.
That rice cooker idea is very creative. In the article you mentioned you had additional relaxation. In Pat's video he did additional heat cool cycles while on the form. Although you don't have that heating pad, could you just use your kitchen oven ? Most of them will do low temp heating like 150 or 200 degrees Fahrenheit.
I love how you've brought all the timber parts into the kitchen, and are working directly in the middle of the kitchen floor, to use the rice cooker and turkey roaster, instead of taking them out to the workshop.. your wife must be awesome to allow such antics.. That'd never work in my house.. ;)
Matthias your mind must be a wicked place to live in, you come up with the neatest things. No mather what the subject, your also fun and informative to watch. You should have a TV show.
Nice work. Clever approaches. I wonder if steam from a steam cleaner applied to the bending stock while it is clamped to the original bending form would reduce or eliminate the spring-back altogether.
That's the theory. By "poorly made", I suppsoe you mean off by a fraction of a millimeter. And getting it accurate is tricky, because you have to compensate for the layer of the veneers. So imagine 4 layers of veneer, each 0.1 mm too thin or too thick, and you have a problem!
Really clever! Especially that rice cooker + homemade chimney idea! Perhaps the minor cracking you experienced was due to the choice of wood. I have never seen Oak used for instrument sides. Experience with Oak suggests it might be a trifle hard to work with because it is so rigid. Although, your clever method seems to have tamed it. I'm keen to see the finished Uke! Good luck Sir!
Looks good. It will be interesting to see what it sounds like when its done. I've never seen an instrument made of oak, and I suspect there is a reason for that. It bends well, but it might not have the ability to resonate like spruce.
Very impressive, Matthias. I would have thought that ukuleles would have an internal frame which help to hold the skin in position. My recollection is that my Yamaha accoustic big body guitar (long since given to my son) had several frame members inside.
Excellent. I'm very impressed by your persistence and ingenuity. If you don't mind, what was the final thickness of the sides, and what temperature was the steam in the rice cooker?
Heyas Mr. Wandel! a little observation i got from viewing a video of the ukulele master, You've posted earlie, in comparison with Yours technique : he first fixates the middle clampbut NOT TO THE VERY BOTTOM - he goes like a 2/3 of a way down, then he clamps edge clamps and in the last part he fasterns the middle clamp to the very bottom - then the wood is stretched. You instead first fastern middle clamp to the bottom point ant then do the side clamps. In this case the alignment is not tight
When steam bending white oak for boats frames green wood is used. Also a metal backing is often used when bending, it keeps small grain from releasing.
Good work. I think if you built a mold where the sides are inside, you can glue the kerf linings, top and back on while in the mold and you won't have to worry about springback.
After you remove it from the steaming device, does it have a noticeable "set-up" time? My intuition tells me that you would have around two minutes before the piece begins to lose its pliability.
A friend of mine was making re-curve bows once and he was using crisco and a paint stripping heat gun to bend the wood. Just melting the crisco into the wood at the bends.
I think what he means, is: When Pat bends the wood around the form, the waist clamp is tightened after the bottom/top clamp - this causes the wood to be pulled tight around the other two curves, which might be why he has less springback (he still had some, but much less) than you do. I'd be curious if you could do an experiment and compare the results....
By causing the laminations to come unglued? That seems fair. Mr. Hawley reheats his bends though - do you think there's a way to reheat yours without damaging the form? Maybe layer on some paper towels before final clamping, resoak them later, and then hit it with a heat gun? (pure speculation, as I don't have a shop to try it out myself)
I look forward to your results. Not sure the fact that it doesn't heat until touching the form is a bad thing. Same thing happens if one uses a bending pipe. Let us know how it goes, I'm still busy cutting tops off cheap guitars practicing the top making.
Matthias great you showed the math of the difference of curve. But Sir you have the form block , make 2 of blocks an steam them at the same time clamped. Pull out them dry. Getting to the end results justify 's the means of method TU . TY
The Cavaquinho is a predecessor to the Ukulele. Portuguese men from Madeira, who arrived in Hawaii in the 1870s (Manuel Nunes was the most famous I think), built new instruments from local materials. Hawaiians came to call them Ukulele, "Jumping Flea". Related to the Machete, Braguinha, and Cavaquinho, but, as I understand, not quite the same thing.
Try what you suggest, and you will know why I didn't do it your way. Male and female formers - those are very prolematic. No flexibility in those, so pressure is rarely even.
Question : would it not have helped to re-steam the wood and then re-clamp...however perhaps useless extrawork but perhaps another way of getting job solved?
if I unclamp and re-steam it, it nearly straightens out. So I'd have to have a non-wood, non-rusting bending form to put in the turkey roasting pan. So I don't! :)
Every piece of wood is tonally different from every other piece of wood, but each species of wood will have a similar tone to other boards of the same species. some of the exotics (besides looking really good) will have a tone that is more desirable by many people. Go to a guitar store, and have one of the sales people strum 4 different guitars one right after the other, you will hear the difference. Make sure they all have the same shape, but just use different woods.
I think you should steam the board once more after you've clamped it. I know, it's complicated but it would help. I've played with bending wood and in more than half the times i've used that method it yielded a better result than just steaming then applying it to the form.
Would the curvature not spring back as much if you steamed it, put into form, then steamed again in the form? I love that curvature meter... nice work.
That was an awesome way to solve that spring back problem! Although, through my experience of building an acoustic guitar it was much easier to soak the wood for a day and then heat a metal pipe to then form by hand. Less math, which is easier for me but I don't think math is as much of an issue for you. Love your vids!
Matthias, where can we get the plans for the device you made to calculate the curvature or radii on curves? The way you solved the springback is fantastic! Ralph
read it again . by steaming both halves at the same time in a larger tub you achieve the same results ( on form blocks ) . It takes tools an some times you have to make a tool to get the end result .
Matthias, I noticed you used a curved clamping block for the center bend initially and you later used a square piece of block for the final round. DId you find the curved piece less effective in creating the center radius thus using a square piece to drive the edge into the curve for a tighter radius?
Don't steam the wood. Boil it, and you need a special 300*F heating pad under the wood you are bending separated with a sheer of spring steel. But with the limited tools you have, nicely done!
Hi Matthias, Dan here from the U.K. You seem not to use trigger/kwik clamps very much in your videos, I just wondered what your thoughts were 'cos on a job like steam bending I reckon F-clamps look a bit fiddly. Can't wait to see the rest of the project!
You are a very smart person. I build guitars, and it's very interesting to see someone who has so much experience in woodworking doing luthiery. Were you an engineer?
I have a question about Paul's dowel maker. Does it need to have fine teeth spaced closely or could you use the metal from a drywall saw? They are about 6" long but spaced farther apart.
Very interesting methodology! Just wanted to point out that in Hawaii, we pronounce ukulele more closely as "oo koo leh leh" and not "you kah lay lee." No biggie, though. Great video as always. Cheers!
Hey Mathias, forget about the specific wording. There is a bit of a language barrier. He is eastern European and just misspoke. He is just saying that If you pull the inside radius nearly tight, then clamp the ends, and then finish clamping the inside radius, it will pull the strip tightly to the form. When you clamped your strips, there were slight gaps around the large radii. It probably makes no difference to the finished product anyway.
The 20% over-bending to compensate for the relaxation of the curves is genius. You are an inspiration to me.
This is incredible. I can't believe how close to that template the end result was. And the rice cooker steamer box, haha brilliant. If it were me I probably would have just eye balled the new template and done some trial and error.
A big storage tub and a humidifier easier.
Ya blew it!
Watching Pat and you as he made his sides was no different then any other builders I have seen. Lots of expensive equipment and beautiful wood with an excellent result. Your vid made it easy with the same stuff I have at home, a table saw, clamps, and a rice cooker. You are the outsider busting in, you are awesome.
Every one of your videos is impressive, but your ingenuity in this video blew my socks off! Rice cooker steam chamber? Radius gauge out of a dial indicator? Tightening the curvature of the form to account for spring-back? You're an absolute genius, Matthias!
I love watching the way you problem solve! I learn so much from you. Thank you for this channel!
You really do have to appreciate the ingenuity of Matthias here. Great video!
Matthias you FUCKING MADMAN. I lost my shit when ylu brought out the rice cooker. Bravo!
You are an awesome guy. That idea of a radius gauge and over-bending by 20% was brilliant. Wish I was as creative!
This man is so ridiculously amazing.
I am almost as excited to make a a rice cooker wood steamer as i am a ukulele now. Awesome vid!
Matthias,
Your skill is beyond amazing - I have never seen anyone do the amazing things that you are able to. Thank you for sharing your videos!
The rice cooker chimney idea...GENIUS in conception and operation!
Thanks also for doing the footwork of establishing a 20% reduction in radii to compensate for spring back! If/when I get out the corpse of a rice cooker in my pantry, I'll make one and try it on some walnut or cherry. I'll try to post a video when I get a working setup. Again, thanks!
I really appreciate your trial and error approaches. More of an educated guess system. You give me courage to try experimentation on my projects. Thank you.
problem with light bulbs inside the form is that the wood doesn't heat until it touches the form.
But it's been suggested to use the oven. That might be a neat thing to try. Once the wood is on the form, dryness won't crack it, so make a bending form without any glue, eliminate the clamps, and then just bake the whole thing in the oven.
You are a genius, I am going to scale this up for guitar work. The idea to make an instrument out of oak is great, save the rainforest and the guitar wont know. Looking at things from a new perspective gives new ideas and better products, thank you Matthias.
Your "relaxation" approximation is brilliant! Congratulations. When your ukulele is finished, I hope you'll learn how to play, if it's not already the case.
I'm liking the start of this series already, what a unique project and it should test your wood working skills. I like your use of the rice cooker, very ingenious.
Your friend used a metal band/strap to support the wood when bending. I understand that by placing the strap on the outside (tension side of wood), you shift the neutral axis toward the outside, thereby placing more wood in compression and reducing the likelihood of rupture on the tension side. But, then, you seem to have managed without! Great job - looking forward to the rest of this series!
your dial radius finder is really cool! Also the bending form modification is a really great idea!
Good ideas in this video:
Building angle gauge: ✓
Overbending shape and calculating how to do it: ✓
Chimney steamer: ✓
Thanks for these inspiring videos.
Aaahh, that was the old ingenius Matthias Wandel. Several great techniques in the same video. Brilliant!
Oak actaully bends reasonably well, and is often used for steam bending. I think people mostly use exotic woods because, if you put that much effort into building a guitar, you might as well spend a few bucks on some fancy wood.
But he was talking about alignment, not springback. And the wood doesn't stretch significantly in length, so I don't see how clamping the ends first vs middle first will affect springback.
Halfway through the video I thought you're overthinking this, but when i saw result at the end, I must say I'm amazed.
I enjoy your videos. This one brought home a point that needs to be spread out to all schools and especially math teachers. So often kids want to know why they need to learn math. Most of the time they figure knowing how to add, subtract, multipy and divide so they can buy or sell things is all they need. Your video shows one way that math is needed in a more in depth way. Perhaps you could produce a version of something like this video showing some of the various ways you use math.
I also think that this could have affected the way of the wood springing back a bit. If you would have fastened the two outer claps first and then the middle one, this would have probably pulled the wood much tighter around the radie of the form and would have also put the it under quite a bit of tension but hey - I have no idea and have never tried steam bending... Your calculations and the new, tighter bending form are a really clever solution to that problem! Great vid as always!
I love the rice cooker solution you came up with. I don't think you will have any problems with your choice of side woods. The sides are supposed to be inert in regards to the sound of an ukulele -- to top "soundboard" being the most important.
I think I will be using a more traditional bending method when I make my ukulele -- using a homemade bending iron -- but I am always amazed at the ground up solutions you come up with on your projects.
I shoud add - as before. Please do try out your ideas.
Where there's a will, there's a way! I would have given up or changed my final design after seeing how much initial spring back there was. But the solution you came up with is why I'm subscribed to your channel. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out!
To me this is one of the most impressive things you've done, specifically your mathematical compensation for the springback.
Yes, would be. the corners of the block left some slight marks in the wood.
I think this is a good observation because it makes more sense to tighten the clamps in a balanced manner. In theory, leaving some slack in the middle of the work until the ends are bent allows more area to absorb the bending stresses. But, I have never bent wood so I don't know if there is any difference in results.
Impressive ingenuity, I really enjoy watching the process you go through to find a working solution.
That rice cooker idea is very creative.
In the article you mentioned you had additional relaxation.
In Pat's video he did additional heat cool cycles while on the form.
Although you don't have that heating pad, could you just use your kitchen oven ?
Most of them will do low temp heating like 150 or 200 degrees Fahrenheit.
I love how you've brought all the timber parts into the kitchen, and are working directly in the middle of the kitchen floor, to use the rice cooker and turkey roaster, instead of taking them out to the workshop.. your wife must be awesome to allow such antics.. That'd never work in my house.. ;)
There is always bracing glued onto the sound board and back, but I have never seen internal framing.
I used an iron and spray bottle to make some instruments very difficult but i managed it. i prefer your solution Matthias. Fantastic. thanks
What a smart bloke. I hope your ukulele is as good as the ideas that achieved it. Great job!
Matthias your mind must be a wicked place to live in, you come up with the neatest things. No mather what the subject, your also fun and informative to watch. You should have a TV show.
That's a very interesting project build, Matthais. I will be watching this one with interest.
that was soo cool how you made the modified form to counter the springback!!!
Really enjoyed seeing this. I play the uke and I love seeing stuff over engineered. Can't wait for the progress.
Nice work. Clever approaches. I wonder if steam from a steam cleaner applied to the bending stock while it is clamped to the original bending form would reduce or eliminate the spring-back altogether.
That's the theory.
By "poorly made", I suppsoe you mean off by a fraction of a millimeter. And getting it accurate is tricky, because you have to compensate for the layer of the veneers. So imagine 4 layers of veneer, each 0.1 mm too thin or too thick, and you have a problem!
I don't follow. How does that make the alignment not right?
I am amazed by how genius and innovative yet simple your solutions of problems are. Your videos are so inspiring! =)
Really clever! Especially that rice cooker + homemade chimney idea!
Perhaps the minor cracking you experienced was due to the choice of wood. I have never seen Oak used for instrument sides. Experience with Oak suggests it might be a trifle hard to work with because it is so rigid. Although, your clever method seems to have tamed it.
I'm keen to see the finished Uke! Good luck Sir!
I love all of the creative improvisations.
Looks good. It will be interesting to see what it sounds like when its done. I've never seen an instrument made of oak, and I suspect there is a reason for that. It bends well, but it might not have the ability to resonate like spruce.
Very impressive, Matthias. I would have thought that ukuleles would have an internal frame which help to hold the skin in position. My recollection is that my Yamaha accoustic big body guitar (long since given to my son) had several frame members inside.
Excellent. I'm very impressed by your persistence and ingenuity. If you don't mind, what was the final thickness of the sides, and what temperature was the steam in the rice cooker?
Heyas Mr. Wandel!
a little observation i got from viewing a video of the ukulele master, You've posted earlie, in comparison with Yours technique : he first fixates the middle clampbut NOT TO THE VERY BOTTOM - he goes like a 2/3 of a way down, then he clamps edge clamps and in the last part he fasterns the middle clamp to the very bottom - then the wood is stretched.
You instead first fastern middle clamp to the bottom point ant then do the side clamps.
In this case the alignment is not tight
using that smaller template for steaming was a great success. well done!
When steam bending white oak for boats frames green wood is used. Also a metal backing is often used when bending, it keeps small grain from releasing.
Good work. I think if you built a mold where the sides are inside, you can glue the kerf linings, top and back on while in the mold and you won't have to worry about springback.
You learn something everyday. Well done.
I love the rice cooker steam box.I wish I'd seen this before I tried to learn bending.
The fractured scraps were very useful.
After you remove it from the steaming device, does it have a noticeable "set-up" time? My intuition tells me that you would have around two minutes before the piece begins to lose its pliability.
A friend of mine was making re-curve bows once and he was using crisco and a paint stripping heat gun to bend the wood. Just melting the crisco into the wood at the bends.
I think what he means, is: When Pat bends the wood around the form, the waist clamp is tightened after the bottom/top clamp - this causes the wood to be pulled tight around the other two curves, which might be why he has less springback (he still had some, but much less) than you do. I'd be curious if you could do an experiment and compare the results....
By causing the laminations to come unglued? That seems fair. Mr. Hawley reheats his bends though - do you think there's a way to reheat yours without damaging the form? Maybe layer on some paper towels before final clamping, resoak them later, and then hit it with a heat gun? (pure speculation, as I don't have a shop to try it out myself)
For more info, click in the description (just like it says at the end of the video)
I look forward to your results. Not sure the fact that it doesn't heat until touching the form is a bad thing. Same thing happens if one uses a bending pipe. Let us know how it goes, I'm still busy cutting tops off cheap guitars practicing the top making.
This is most intriguing. Looking forward to how this will come together.
Matthias great you showed the math of the difference of curve. But Sir you have the form block , make 2 of blocks an steam them at the same time clamped. Pull out them dry. Getting to the end results justify 's the means of method TU . TY
Mostly I did not find the curved piece when I did the final bend.
Bravo man, you can make anything out of wood.
Proving once again that ultimately, science will win out!! Good job Matt!!
(can't wait until you figure out the science of playing it) Heh!!;)
as i did my uke couple years ago i did use several layers of vener , similar to plywood, bended and glued them together, worked fine :)
Watching you problem solve is inspirational. Hooked.
The Cavaquinho is a predecessor to the Ukulele. Portuguese men from Madeira, who arrived in Hawaii in the 1870s (Manuel Nunes was the most famous I think), built new instruments from local materials. Hawaiians came to call them Ukulele, "Jumping Flea". Related to the Machete, Braguinha, and Cavaquinho, but, as I understand, not quite the same thing.
Try what you suggest, and you will know why I didn't do it your way.
Male and female formers - those are very prolematic. No flexibility in those, so pressure is rarely even.
Question : would it not have helped to re-steam the wood and then re-clamp...however perhaps useless extrawork but perhaps another way of getting job solved?
Mathias, you are awesome. I love all your videos.
if I unclamp and re-steam it, it nearly straightens out. So I'd have to have a non-wood, non-rusting bending form to put in the turkey roasting pan. So I don't! :)
Every piece of wood is tonally different from every other piece of wood, but each species of wood will have a similar tone to other boards of the same species. some of the exotics (besides looking really good) will have a tone that is more desirable by many people. Go to a guitar store, and have one of the sales people strum 4 different guitars one right after the other, you will hear the difference. Make sure they all have the same shape, but just use different woods.
I think you should steam the board once more after you've clamped it. I know, it's complicated but it would help. I've played with bending wood and in more than half the times i've used that method it yielded a better result than just steaming then applying it to the form.
Would the curvature not spring back as much if you steamed it, put into form, then steamed again in the form?
I love that curvature meter... nice work.
That was an awesome way to solve that spring back problem! Although, through my experience of building an acoustic guitar it was much easier to soak the wood for a day and then heat a metal pipe to then form by hand. Less math, which is easier for me but I don't think math is as much of an issue for you. Love your vids!
Another variation of the blow torch method is a high watt incandescent lightbulb. A dimmer switch could add more control over the temperature.
You are a genius, Matthias!
Matthias,
where can we get the plans for the device you made to calculate the curvature or radii on curves?
The way you solved the springback is fantastic!
Ralph
I can't wait to see how this project progresses; can you play the ukulele?
UA-cam can be slow in the evening. Try watching it in the morning.
to sum up, you are the best on youtube
Top tip: I'm a furniture maker and if I'm steaming wood I'll use a piece of drainpipe with a cap on one end and a wallpaper stripper on the other.
do you have a personal profile or something? i'm just curious on how you acquired such amazing experience and knowledge.
read it again . by steaming both halves at the same time
in a larger tub you achieve the same results ( on form blocks ) . It takes tools an some times you have to make a tool to get the end result .
Matthias,
I noticed you used a curved clamping block for the center bend initially and you later used a square piece of block for the final round. DId you find the curved piece less effective in creating the center radius thus using a square piece to drive the edge into the curve for a tighter radius?
Brilliant as usual. Like the cork floor also
Don't steam the wood. Boil it, and you need a special 300*F heating pad under the wood you are bending separated with a sheer of spring steel. But with the limited tools you have, nicely done!
wow a stroke of genius there
Hi Matthias, Dan here from the U.K. You seem not to use trigger/kwik clamps very much in your videos, I just wondered what your thoughts were 'cos on a job like steam bending I reckon F-clamps look a bit fiddly. Can't wait to see the rest of the project!
Damn! You are a genius mathias, nice solution
is there any problem you cant solve. ? Always amazed by the solutions.
I wonder if you will need to recalculate the amount of compensation for different species and samples of wood.
You are a very smart person. I build guitars, and it's very interesting to see someone who has so much experience in woodworking doing luthiery. Were you an engineer?
I have a question about Paul's dowel maker. Does it need to have fine teeth spaced closely or could you use the metal from a drywall saw? They are about 6" long but spaced farther apart.
Very interesting methodology! Just wanted to point out that in Hawaii, we pronounce ukulele more closely as "oo koo leh leh" and not "you kah lay lee." No biggie, though. Great video as always. Cheers!
Hey Mathias, forget about the specific wording. There is a bit of a language barrier. He is eastern European and just misspoke. He is just saying that If you pull the inside radius nearly tight, then clamp the ends, and then finish clamping the inside radius, it will pull the strip tightly to the form. When you clamped your strips, there were slight gaps around the large radii. It probably makes no difference to the finished product anyway.