That looks pretty good. Starting your color development journey with Phoenix is starting on hard mode, though. Kodak and (if they still exist) Fujifilm's offerings will be much more forgiving.
It’s fun to see you delve into color! Slide film next? ;) Yes, Ilford base is the color you achieved a purpley color. My guess is that they just use their B&W base. Apparently in trials there was very low red saturation and a lot of blue and green, so they pushed the reds pretty hard on this first release of color negative film to try to get an even spread of the color spectrum.
Not bad for a first attempt Andy. Color film is really good for overexposure, so you can add exposure to help the shadows. For color correction, I'd scan as a slide and invert for this film. Then find a neutral color in the shot like something Grey or white. Then using the eye dropper tool in color management, select the neutral tone, and that should be the easiest way to correct the color balance. Then adjust slightly if needed.
Highly recommend using the agitation stir stick instead of the way you did it, it’s much easier and less messy. C-41 developing is pretty forgiving in my experience and you can be 1 or 2 degrees above 102F for blix, same with dev but 1 degree max to be safe
I've been using figure 8 method for almost 40 years. Not messy at all. I do cringe when I see people inverting those leaky tanks, though 😁 Thanks for the tip about temps!
Presumably you won't use this often. Part C of the developer is what goes bad if you're not mixing everything at once; it will go blueish black when it oxidises. Keep as much air out of that developer bag as possible and store it in a fridge and you'll get much more life out of it.
Very interesting video, as usual Does the C330 from the description identifies as a Rolleicord ? 😅 Would a prebath at 38° hinder the 2° loss of the developper ?
I wonder how old that Flexicolor kit was. I do not think Kodak has made those for years. The lack of color performance in the images looks to be more a characteristic of the Phoenix 200 film, which isn't a true 200 speed, and which has a contrast range of only a couple of stops.
@@analogueandy8x10 I live and learn. It seems Photo Systems took over C-41 chemistry production under the Kodak brand in 2023 when Aleris' Chinese chemical production associates bailed out on them. How times change from the 1970s, when Photo Systems broke into the industry, launching Unicolor home C-41 and E-6 development kits. Now they are Unicolor, Arista, Kodak, and apparently about to take over photochemistry production for Cinestill. Looks like they may become the GM of consumer photochemistry.
@@analogueandy8x10 no i mean the shelf life of all the parts of the kit. I do not shoot a lot of color neg. Otherwise i have to stock the already exposed film.
"One wife is enough!" Agreed!
Thank you for sharing your experience. 🎉
That looks pretty good. Starting your color development journey with Phoenix is starting on hard mode, though. Kodak and (if they still exist) Fujifilm's offerings will be much more forgiving.
i have used the bellini foto c41 kit works well its just keeping the dev at 38~ i like the retro looking colours of the pheonix.
It’s fun to see you delve into color! Slide film next? ;)
Yes, Ilford base is the color you achieved a purpley color. My guess is that they just use their B&W base. Apparently in trials there was very low red saturation and a lot of blue and green, so they pushed the reds pretty hard on this first release of color negative film to try to get an even spread of the color spectrum.
It is indeed the XP2 substrate, I think they even state that it is the exact same for Phoenix in a video somewhere.
Great share about your trying out the processing kit, cheers Pat
Good on ya! I just tried it for the first time last week. I also thought I was never gonna do that lol
Not bad for a first attempt Andy. Color film is really good for overexposure, so you can add exposure to help the shadows. For color correction, I'd scan as a slide and invert for this film. Then find a neutral color in the shot like something Grey or white. Then using the eye dropper tool in color management, select the neutral tone, and that should be the easiest way to correct the color balance. Then adjust slightly if needed.
Thanks, Scott.... I'm not really concerned with colour balance. More concerned with correct exposure, though.
@@analogueandy8x10 I figured since you're already in Photoshop, why not get the colors right.
@@braxus351W the colours are right enough for me. If I were photographing people, I might be more concerned. 😁
Highly recommend using the agitation stir stick instead of the way you did it, it’s much easier and less messy.
C-41 developing is pretty forgiving in my experience and you can be 1 or 2 degrees above 102F for blix, same with dev but 1 degree max to be safe
I've been using figure 8 method for almost 40 years. Not messy at all. I do cringe when I see people inverting those leaky tanks, though 😁 Thanks for the tip about temps!
20:20 usually color film has an orange base, but harman's pheonix film doesn't have that. it can change from light blue to pink
Presumably you won't use this often. Part C of the developer is what goes bad if you're not mixing everything at once; it will go blueish black when it oxidises. Keep as much air out of that developer bag as possible and store it in a fridge and you'll get much more life out of it.
I read somewhere that it's better to mix all parts for the developer and then store it as a mixed solution, it has a longer shelf life.
Very interesting video, as usual
Does the C330 from the description identifies as a Rolleicord ? 😅
Would a prebath at 38° hinder the 2° loss of the developper ?
I'm thinking of trying a prebath at temperature, next time.
I wonder how old that Flexicolor kit was. I do not think Kodak has made those for years. The lack of color performance in the images looks to be more a characteristic of the Phoenix 200 film, which isn't a true 200 speed, and which has a contrast range of only a couple of stops.
It's fresh. I believe it's being produced by Photo System Inc.
@@analogueandy8x10 I live and learn. It seems Photo Systems took over C-41 chemistry production under the Kodak brand in 2023 when Aleris' Chinese chemical production associates bailed out on them. How times change from the 1970s, when Photo Systems broke into the industry, launching Unicolor home C-41 and E-6 development kits. Now they are Unicolor, Arista, Kodak, and apparently about to take over photochemistry production for Cinestill. Looks like they may become the GM of consumer photochemistry.
Thanks for sharing. Now I know to get some good glasses to process, How long is this fixing kit OK?
I don't understand your question... are you asking about the shelf life of the fixer?
@@analogueandy8x10 no i mean the shelf life of all the parts of the kit. I do not shoot a lot of color neg. Otherwise i have to stock the already exposed film.
@@ruudmaas2480 I heard once the solutions have been mixed up, 2 to 3 months in tightly sealed containers.
2B or not 2B ? sorry
8:50 you need to drink more water
At 8:50? Why?
@@analogueandy8x10
Joke didn't land. You had said it looks like pee - if that's your pee drink more water, you're dehydrated 😄
@@BobOgden1 😆 Got it. Sorry.