I saw the entire final. Actually Paul Jenft figured out the beta earlier! (As you can clearly see from this clip) he just didn't manage to top it though.
Love to see that the atheletes go and try to solve the problems after the competition, real climber mentality, keep on projecting, work out the beta together. I dont think people realise how much time pressure is a factor in comps, every climber could top every problem given enough tries and rest
Read IFSC Guidelines for Routesetting Boulder & Lead PDF. Section 4.2 Titled "Athlete Considerations" The route setters had taken into account all of the contestants' body measurements.
@@2gouv They have the data of all the contestants from the beginning, and they adjust according to the shortest and tallest ones. So no contestants can say the route is unfair. They don't need to predict who are the finalists - they setup the final routes based on the limitations of all contestants.
I can’t help but see it as a failure of a set to not have a single zone in the finals, and only 1 participant even having a half decent attempt at the intended move
yeah maybe i misspoke on that a bit, i do think that the routesetter told him the beta. But I guess there's still the physical part of figuring it out for your own body haha
So cool seeing an after shot of the finalists. I just don’t feel like this is a great Boulder for finals… let alone a competition. It was so clearly dependent on that mysterious move. Mejdi breezed through the rest. There’s a lot that goes into making these routes but still. They should’ve focused on making the whole problem equally as confusing or something in my opinion
There's a video of them setting it and watching them set, it's easy to see why they would have thought the competitors would figure it out. When they do the move the right way it's not crazy challenging. I think the smile on Mejdi's face when he sticks it also legitimizes it for me. I think we'll see more moves similar to this in future but now the climbers will know what to do.
@@HimanXK or they can set things that aren’t too confusing so the competitors can feel more confident about what they’re doing, and the audience will also be happy, and j imagine the climbers will to, considering nobody got past that part during the comp
@@Greesher yeah but my point was that they must not have thought it was too confusing. If you watch the setters climbing it, you can see how they would think "this isn't that bad, people will figure this out." Honestly, seeing it done, it really does look like something at least one person could have figured out.
@@HimanXK I see your point but again no one whom it really counted for did it in a timely manor Setters don’t have the same type of pressure on their thinking process you gotta put that into consideration
Having to solve a puzzle and not being able to complete the route because they didn't figure it out is the last thing I'd want to see people doing in a sport like this
@@scarlett8782 i didn't know this puzzle solving was somewhat normal in this sport. I thought it was just about climbing and strength and grip but it seems that you actually gotta break your brain to make some weird move you'll never use irl
@@gabrieldelatortilla1you’ve obviously never climbed. A big part of climbing at all levels is figuring out what you’re supposed to do on a particular boulder/route.
@@tacticalchunder1207 it just came to me... You gotta figure out your route to climb a mountain, and there isn`t only one route. These events simply exaggerate the problem solving part but it's still rock climbing, right? You helped me change my mind. Thank you
God loves you so repent of your sins and be baptized..He gave His life for you so that you could have forgiveness of sins and eternal life when He comes again..and remember to keep His sabbath day Holy which is Saturday
I agree. one japanese climber was full spread eagle and could just barely touch the handholds. he couldn't even jump upwards because doing so would mean bending his knees, and if he bent his knees, his hands wouldn't reach anymore and he would fall. he also could not get leverage using just his arms and press up because his hands were just barely touching the bottom of the volumes. you can pull up on something that you're only touching the bottom of - you have to be at least touching the upper sides or the top to press up. not a great route on this one, in my opinion, and it was very frustrating to watch during the finals.
And he finished it in sneakers lol
No footwork required, just the most powerful shoulders in the world
Yeah incredible man 🤩
Yeah there are no small footholds. In fact sneakers were provs better on that, as more surface area on the volume
when it comes to slab and slopers the usual aggressive bouldering shoes don’t really cut it
that is an absurd move lol
Used to do a wall bottom rope that had two lifts similar to that, but not as extended.
Idk I could probably do it
@@CarterMoore2001😂😂😂
I like how surprised he is by his own success with that move
I saw the entire final. Actually Paul Jenft figured out the beta earlier! (As you can clearly see from this clip) he just didn't manage to top it though.
Almost fuggin died doing it too… ☠️
French da best
@@bricecro5220in surr meby
He didn't jump. It was meant to make you jump
Love to see that the atheletes go and try to solve the problems after the competition, real climber mentality, keep on projecting, work out the beta together. I dont think people realise how much time pressure is a factor in comps, every climber could top every problem given enough tries and rest
He surprised himself lol 😂 pure sports joy
What if your arms aren’t long enough for a move like this 😂
Get wrekt
Read IFSC Guidelines for Routesetting Boulder & Lead PDF. Section 4.2 Titled "Athlete Considerations"
The route setters had taken into account all of the contestants' body measurements.
@@nicholassinggih6678non they don't take it into account since when they set up the route they don't know who's gonna be the finalist
@@2gouv They have the data of all the contestants from the beginning, and they adjust according to the shortest and tallest ones. So no contestants can say the route is unfair.
They don't need to predict who are the finalists - they setup the final routes based on the limitations of all contestants.
@@nicholassinggih6678 I didn't know that.
But do you really think that they bother doing all that ? For me they just go with the feeling
Shit, I use to serve water syrup to Mejdi when he was a kid at my climbing gym, now international monster... Time flies 😅
What is water syrup?
@@mjc7745 la traduction foireuse de "Sirop à l'eau"?😜
spit@@mjc7745
I can’t help but see it as a failure of a set to not have a single zone in the finals, and only 1 participant even having a half decent attempt at the intended move
I want to know who sets these problems
i mean the only way for climbers to learn new moves is by setters setting them so every once in a while such low percentage moves can be good
Yo mom
Step one: be Spider-Man
Step two: that’s it, you need to be Spider-Man.
C’est juste impressionnant
I think it is the routsetter told him the beta instead of him figuring it out.
i think he figured it out if you watch the full final you can see him watching other people doing it and figuring it out
yeah maybe i misspoke on that a bit, i do think that the routesetter told him the beta. But I guess there's still the physical part of figuring it out for your own body haha
I think anyone with a positive IQ can figure out the beta himself
@@toxic_narcissist This is possibly the dumbest comment I’ve seen in a long time
@@toxic_narcissist ur name checks out
Why is my huge ass ego telling me that I can climb this...
Bro activated Gamemode 1
My hands are sweating just by watching them
Bro how would that Sorato guy even get up there then?
Aale alelelele alelelelele😂😂😂😂
He was so suprised
That was so satisfying to watch
I wanna try
dynoing is always on my mind, I wonder if I would’ve tried the last move had I not seen this
Such a beautiful boulder problem 😍
That's not rock climbing it's mutated gymnastics.
Basically an iron cross
What a weird comment. Obviously everyone watching can tell that the holds are not made of rocks
What is yhat brutal route
I'm french so I could understand the people cheering at the end. Really heartwarming ❤
We all understand “allez Allez allez” in the climbing world 😊
@@rosshenderson8171 its because Mejdi is french so we 're proud of him too
The chalk handprints at the top….
I read it like that immediately and I’m surprised none of the commentators saw it. It must look way different when you’re on the wall.
🇫🇷🇫🇷🇫🇷🇫🇷
I don't know how I feel about that move
What. In sneakers too???
me who would scale a door frame as a kid
I swear I heard the doulingo noise on the clip of the third guy
POV: How parents say they went to school
Mejdi is thé best Ever
Mejdi really is on a new level
where do you watch rock climbing competitions?
IFSC has the full ones on their channel, under the "Live" tab.
@@Selasi_thank you!
Ale lelelelelelel 🤣🤣🤣
3rd guy tomy in it?
le meme mouvement hier au championnat du monde de bloc...et certains n'ont même pas vu la méthode !
This is physical puzzle at this point
So cool seeing an after shot of the finalists.
I just don’t feel like this is a great Boulder for finals… let alone a competition.
It was so clearly dependent on that mysterious move. Mejdi breezed through the rest. There’s a lot that goes into making these routes but still.
They should’ve focused on making the whole problem equally as confusing or something in my opinion
There's a video of them setting it and watching them set, it's easy to see why they would have thought the competitors would figure it out. When they do the move the right way it's not crazy challenging. I think the smile on Mejdi's face when he sticks it also legitimizes it for me. I think we'll see more moves similar to this in future but now the climbers will know what to do.
@@HimanXK or they can set things that aren’t too confusing so the competitors can feel more confident about what they’re doing, and the audience will also be happy, and j imagine the climbers will to, considering nobody got past that part during the comp
@@Greesher yeah but my point was that they must not have thought it was too confusing. If you watch the setters climbing it, you can see how they would think "this isn't that bad, people will figure this out." Honestly, seeing it done, it really does look like something at least one person could have figured out.
@@HimanXK I see your point but again no one whom it really counted for did it in a timely manor
Setters don’t have the same type of pressure on their thinking process you gotta put that into consideration
it's unfortunate but it's a cool move and next time a problem like this shows up theyll know what to do
It looks like it's just a matter of being tall enough
I heard someone say "ale..ale alelelelele" Something like this. What does it mean?
allez means go in french
Too bad the last one didn’t seem to be in the competition
Peter Parker
whats the ale le le le thing
Wait uhm... In this sport, can you climb without shoes????
Fantastic 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Since when did the olympics like this exist?
It's clear that it's not impossible but deceptive.
Also 8 inches taller...
Neterie celebrating in the back
アジア人無理やろこの戦い方…手足長いの強すぎる…
mejdi is only 2cm taller than tomoa narasaki
@@iagree4686OMG if this is true, he’s amazing
But wouldnt it be hard for shorter and smaller people ? they wont be able to reach either sides.
My toxic trait is thinking i could do this
Qoah
Me : Petter. ??
o
Everyone struggling and this guy doesn't even make it look hard
so only for the long hand.. the short hand wont be able at all then..
My toxic trait is thinking i could do this as a beginner
anyone named kuroko aint good at being the light.
Does it in his fucking trainers too.
Having to solve a puzzle and not being able to complete the route because they didn't figure it out is the last thing I'd want to see people doing in a sport like this
I completely agree. W take
@@scarlett8782 i didn't know this puzzle solving was somewhat normal in this sport. I thought it was just about climbing and strength and grip but it seems that you actually gotta break your brain to make some weird move you'll never use irl
@@gabrieldelatortilla1you’ve obviously never climbed. A big part of climbing at all levels is figuring out what you’re supposed to do on a particular boulder/route.
@@tacticalchunder1207 it just came to me... You gotta figure out your route to climb a mountain, and there isn`t only one route. These events simply exaggerate the problem solving part but it's still rock climbing, right? You helped me change my mind. Thank you
if you would like to elaborate further, correct me on something or talk more about it, feel free to write a novel here bc i'll read it all
So not impossible then 😂
Lol
I can do that...
Allez
no
God loves you so repent of your sins and be baptized..He gave His life for you so that you could have forgiveness of sins and eternal life when He comes again..and remember to keep His sabbath day Holy which is Saturday
can you be more discriminatory against short climbers.
Mejdi actually was the 2nd shortest climber in that final and seems to be just fine ;)
Doesnt count.
no way
@@bog4543 sarcasm 1- bog 0
@@HoopstrongCoach i was joking too 😭
I don't think some of those guys are tall enough to actually do it as intended?
I agree. one japanese climber was full spread eagle and could just barely touch the handholds. he couldn't even jump upwards because doing so would mean bending his knees, and if he bent his knees, his hands wouldn't reach anymore and he would fall. he also could not get leverage using just his arms and press up because his hands were just barely touching the bottom of the volumes. you can pull up on something that you're only touching the bottom of - you have to be at least touching the upper sides or the top to press up. not a great route on this one, in my opinion, and it was very frustrating to watch during the finals.